Making Biochar in Your Woodstove and Inoculating it!

[@ZZ_Trop]

I'd like to thank @davidthegood for putting me on to you and thank you for the technique! I got two big ol diced tomato cans, ran over to my father-in-laws to steal a crimping tool and had the whole family working on this project lol. The wife was collecting sticks in the yard while our dogs helped chomp them up. It's now 5:53 am and I'm so excited I'm checking the can in my bath robe 😂.

[@soilbellefarm3710]

Same!

[@TheTamrock2007]

🤣 if I had a tool I'd be right there with you. I am so excited about this 😃

[@mrspogadaeus]

Yup, saw this on David the Good's vlog. Good information.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Just get one. You'll thank me later!

[@Off-Grid-Ping]

Me too!

[@pedroclaro7822]

Instead of throwing away cans with holes you can probably use the bottom of them to make lids for other cans. Also you can just cut the tops with safety or side can openers for a clean cut without an inner ridge. I’ve been using a paint bucket for ages, done at least 20 burns without it getting a hole. Pressure might be a part of it - I just place the lid on top instead of having a hole to exude smoke.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thanks!

[@dethmaul]

I ate 2 cans of beans and made one quickly!! I'm so excited. I crimped it by grabbing with needlenose and twisting. Easy peasy.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thanks for letting us know, I never tried needlenose! I'll remember that!

[@RahulVarshney956]

Any issues using aluminum foil and then poking a hole to cover the can? So far so good using chili cans this way in my toaster oven

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

@@RahulVarshney956 If you're using aluminum foil, your retorts aren't getting nearly hot enough to make quality char which needs to reach about 1500°F (815°) Aluminum melts at about 1200°F and can't be used for making a retort!

[@dethmaul]

After 10 burns they were done, and after 8 they started getting holes. I got a box maybe 12x6x6" full!

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

@@dethmaul How long they last depends mostly on the water content of the feedstock. The more water, the faster they'll burn out! I keep using them, even after they develop holes in them, until I start to see some ash, and then I throw them in the recycling bin!

[@diogosilva2475]

I have seen a lot of videos about biochar's production. But this one is the best one as you use simplicity and intelligence to explain the whole production process. Thank you very much !!!!

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thanks for the kind words!

[@davemartin1534]

Don't forget to use the wood ash out of your stove. The ash is rich in minerals and lots of potassium. These are very water soliable and erodes out of the ash as soon as water is applied. which means campfire ash if its been rained on very few minerals and potassium is left it has eroded into the soil below the campfire base. Now how to extract the minerals n potassium. Simply scoop the ashes into a container and add water n stir. Now all the minerals and potassium is contained for usearound your plants. Any plant fruit or crop that is high in potassium this is a #1 soil fertilizer. Don't forget to start out with about a 10 part water to 1 part ash water.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thanks, Dave.

[@jeil5676]

Regarding the particle size of your char, I find it reasonable at every level to have structure in compost and soil. This leaves space for air. It is in fact surface area that is within your charcoal. If you crush it, its like deflating it. Its known that plants create aggregates in their root zone and aggregates of differing sizes create pockets of air. Its the opposite of soil compaction. When it rains, these pockets fill with water and the gas(air) leaves through the surface. When the water drains from the soil, it sucks more air into the pockets. Its gas exchange for the roots, bugs, worms, bacteria, fungi yada yada. Same for your compost. If you liquify all your mats and then put it into a container, You will end up with an anaerobic sludge mess. You would be essentially compacting your compost. You need leaves and sticks or particles to create those air pockets to aerate your microbes. In the long run its porosity in your root zone.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thanks!

[@sicsempertyrannis4351]

the char is hydrophobic, it doesn't 'fill with water'

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

@@sicsempertyrannis4351 You're partially right, at first IT IS hydrophobic. But as it's oxidized on contact with air and water, biochar becomes hydrophilic. Here's a documented scientific study to back this up: onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/gcbb.12026

[@B30pt87]

@@LiveOnWhatYouGrow Thank you for the link to that study! Very informative.

[@dethmaul]

Ah, so THAT'S what air spaces do! I wondered why they're so important. I didn't know they pumped air in and out.

[@WiltshireMan]

Very interesting. I guess you could add the biochar to a compost bin and over time that would also activate the biochar?

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Absolutely, I put most of the biochar into the compost, even the unactivated charcoal!

[@JustMe-gs9xi]

@@LiveOnWhatYouGrow thanks!

[@vidard9863]

I'm new to the community, but had been casually experimenting with charcoal and soil, because my sandy soil doesn't grow much... Anyway simply putting charcoal in the bottom of the pots and growing as normal has produced positive results, so you probably don't need to worry about doing it 'the correct way' so much as you need to just do it the way that works best for you.

[@NorthernIllinoisWormFarm]

@@vidard9863With respect, you will find much better results if you charge your biochar beforehand. (There are a multitude of ways to do so, though I really think what you saw here covers all the bases well.) If you don't pre-charge the charcoal, for the first year or so, the charcoal will be absorbing nutrients from the soil, which limits what is available to the plants. Over time, this will balance out, but you will find lower productivity until this happens.

[@vidard9863]

@@NorthernIllinoisWormFarm you are not wrong, however my soil is sandy enough that good compost has little effect because the nutrients can leech out of it before a single season is over as a result the charcoal added ends up with a higher concentration of nutrients than the surrounding soil in less than a year. Initially I just thought that it would store water for the plants, so the results have been better than I anticipated, but yes, charging it would be better, and I intend to add it to one of my compost barrels while it finishes, because frankly I don't have the time and resources invested in gardening at this time to do anything more complicated.

[@DJ-lp6bh]

This is brilliant! It never occurred to me that two coffee cans would get the job done. Good on you sir!

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

What's brilliant is that it's free!

[@jeffsinnock5353]

By using your can method I have made three 5-gallon buckets of this black gold and inoculated it with KLF and other goodies will see what happens this spring

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

I've never heard of KLF. What's that?

[@ianfrancisledesma4431]

David the Good sent me..liked and subscribed!

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Welcome!

[@ianfrancisledesma4431]

Love your content! I realized that I need to acquire a piece of land..growing in a small backyard is ok but one needs a good sized plot to have enough to make it worth the effort

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

@@ianfrancisledesma4431 But it is always worth the effort to learn the principles of regenerative gardening so you can transfer your skills to your good-sized plot once you acquire it! Even if you have NO plot whatsoever, you can still grow in pots on the windowsill and try to get as much food as you can from that one pot. I grew four good-sized potatoes in a 16-ounce cup that I started by picking one eye off of a shriveled-up potato. It IS worth the effort! Take a look at that video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aaWVh3qPZ5V2a80 There are the two potatoes you see, and then two more the same size in the interior of the cup!

[@daleprezgay6149]

This is a very creative way to produce biochar on a small scale. With diligence a lot can be made over time. Thank you for demonstrating this.

[@Personalized_Workshop]

13:21 watching 3-4 videos of yours this morning has already transformed my whole approach to my garden preparations for next year. I am a believer in your very simply yet very effective methods. I appreciate your knowledge and how you pass it along. I’m amazed. I’ll be doing the worm buckets and I’m looking for a video of yours of how to maintain worms once you have thousands and thousands of them.

[@irenavuorinen2304]

Hello, it's nice, that you take comments of your viewers in a count, there will be always some "spicy" comments, but you obviously do your best, back it up with science and top it off with all the passion you have for your garden. I sincerely thank you for all I learned from your videos. Those are packed with valuable information and also you are not feeding us with the "only right" option. I think it's always good idea to give yourself some space for a mistakes. 🤭 In the end we are all humans. All the best from Finland and please, keep doing these great videos, they are very much appreciated. Thank you! 🍀☺️🍀

[@michaelbessette8685]

I also use water that had comfrey leaves soaking in it for a week or so.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thank you for commenting and sharing that. We have a lot of Comfrey growing throughout our gardens and do that in the summer. Comfrey is great, but I don't think a lot of people know that.

[@wendyhusband4048]

Great idea, I've been making comfrey/ weed tea with cow dung thrown in, great to know another way to use this.

[@chriskladis9522]

Thank you for your logic as far as size of the pieces. My first biochar was a 55 gallon and produced 200 lbs of char. I did grind it to a fine reduced state and inoculated it with worm castings tea with molasses and fish emulsion, making a slurry. I let it sit 2 months in this mix and spread it on tarps to control is as I did not have compost ready so I direct sowed that into my newly set up hugoculture raised beds. I figured year 1 would produce a reasonable crop. Yes, there are other variables not stated here as you must know. The fail I had was my crop of tomatoes couldn't be held by bamboo structures it crushed the bamboo I was constantly rebirthing supports. Cattle panel tunnels over the raised beds proved sufficient, kinda! So year 1 was great, learned what and what not to do but. I'm looking at doing another biochar barrel. All work is in place . I will try what you say and now have 1000 lbs of compost to work with.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Wow Chris, that's fantastic! I would love to see some pictures! If would suggest you visit Elaine Ingham's channel to take the next step in your learning, to make sure everything is progressing on the micro level, especially the fungi to bacteria ratio. I bought an inexpensive microscope I hook up to my computer screen so I can see all the bacterial, fungi, protozoa, and nematodes in my soil. This has helped me to REALLY understand what's going on, so I'm not just repeating other people who are repeating other people, etc, etc. I know what works and what doesn't because I see what's going on. It can't be just theory for you as it it for a lot of people. Here's the microscope I use: amzn.to/41euAtC At least take a look, maybe someday you can get one. Here's a video of one of our subscribers: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmWxkqZmpMaenKM Microscopy take you to a whole new level in gardening!

[@annayelton3591]

From what I've seen, the folks that are breaking up their char have started with larger wood and have significantly larger pieces than the ones that come from your wood chips. Most are crushing their char until it looks much like your results. Thank you for presenting an easy way to make char in a home wood stove.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

You're welcome!

[@minhducnguyen9276]

There's an advantage to it. Larger wood pieces have less surface area, thus reducing the amount of charcoal loss from burning with oxygen ( unless you use a specialized kiln to make biochar there's always some oxygen in the vessel). That's saying, unless you are making biochar at the industrial scale this loss shouldn't be significant.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

@@minhducnguyen9276 Most of the subscribers to the website won't be either! But we are interested in learning what you find out. We're rooting for your success!

[@minhducnguyen9276]

@@LiveOnWhatYouGrow Thank you sir. I'm trying to figure it out by myself. There are a few professors in my university who are already doing research on biochar. Unfortunately, My instructing Professor isn't one of those. She teaches sustainable farming but biochar isn't her expertise and picked the topic solely because I was interested in it.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

@@minhducnguyen9276 Sadly some people will never get it because, in my opinion, they view everything you put into your garden has to be a plant nutrient, and they can't, or don't want to, understand that it's a method of facilitating microbial life

[@DaveM-mp6yu]

Totally correct, the interior spaces are far more important than the exterior surface and have far greater surface area on the inside pores. This is for the process of adsorbtion. Great video, thanks.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thank you as well! I think a lot of people agree with us about the interior spaces, but don't comment. If you have any input on why you also have come to that conclusion, please let us know!

[@DaveM-mp6yu]

Pore size and interior surface area are key factors that affect adsorption of ions and other materials in chemistry and also for bacterial growth for breakdown of ammonia into nitrites and nitrates in saltwater aquariums. Similar should be true in land based systems.

[@aaronhopkins6697]

Amazing content, you are very knowledgeable, and a great teacher. I can see I'll be doing some binge watching in the near future. Your explanation is very in-depth and scientific but still very easy for anyone to comprehend. Thanks from Australia.

[@danward64]

Your videos showed up just in time. Thank you. This is easier than coal dipping. More consistent product too. 🐎🐎🦅

[@kissdirt]

I agree with your view on not crumbling it to powder state… It doesn’t really make sense as it is a housing for microbial life to live in… Very simple Way to make it. Keep up the videos!

[@KalaEsso]

You are not going to be able to crumble biochar smaller than microbes, just an FYI

[@timmcilraith8762]

You can.

[@kerrytaylor939]

🤔Your sponge analogy was perfect, even without showing it. Smaller things might breakdown quicker, but for something that has porosity for moisture, oxygen, and gives home to life, it makes perfect sense that it should not be a powder. Thank you 👍

[@turtle2212]

Thanks for this very valuable input! And don't worry to much about spicy comments. There are people who criticize everybody and everything, this won't ever stop as this is their sense of life. We should all be able to adjust information to our own needs that might be different to the needs of others. You are doing a great job explaining how it works, thanks again so much!

[@terracoilGuy]

Gotta say, the retort idea is really clever. I’ll be on yet lookout for those bigger steel cans. Have use smaller cans for now in my smokeless fire pit.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Get them from a pizza restaurant. They're HAPPY to give them to you!

[@susanadams1249]

I watched a video of a person who made (activated) biochar using Royal Oak 100% hardwood charcoal. This would be so much more doable for me if you think it is valid. Love your videos, so informative and I am learning so much!! Thank you. Susan

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

As long as you're not buying the kind they make that has starter fluid, go for it!

[@dethmaul]

How did it go?? I think i use the same coals in my grill. The red bag? I have some left i can use if it went well.

[@daveshope3515]

Amazing! I tried last night and it took 1 hour in my fireplacd to produce first 900 grams.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Nice work! Did you see the flames coming out of the hole and from the sides?

[@GWFries-gb7sh]

11:15 As I understand it, the crucial point for the accumulation of water and nutrients at the end of the charring process is the quenching of the charcoal with cold water. The crystalline structure of the plant charcoal shatters because the heat cannot be dissipated quickly enough in contact with cold water, additional pores are opened and clear the way for absorption - this is probably illustrated by the fact that the plant charcoal in this way, unlike the one in the video sequence shown, is easier to break. Thank you for your work and info.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thanks for your comment! Definitely, definitely, more is NOT known about biochar than what IS known, and what was once thought of as truth is being replaced by more advanced information. However, there are many "experts" still holding onto the former "truths." My opinion is, that if they are really experts, they would understand that there are no experts. There is science, however, and true science is always evolving and coming to a greater understanding of natural things as they’re revealed. For example, it was once thought that grinding biochar to a fine powder was best for plants, and I think that water quenching kind of falls into that same category. I think those ideas came about because of the paradigm of using activated charcoal in a water purification perspective. In that case, you want to “open up” the pores by removing the tars and other things, but when used as a soil conditioner, those tars and other things are actually food for the microorganisms! When they use charcoal for water purification, they want to create as much surface area as possible because the way it works is basically through electrical charges attracting toxins which in turn attach themselves to the charcoal, purifying the water. With biochar, however, the most important part isn’t the surface area, but rather the cubic area of the interior pores. Even if the pores are present, but filled with tars, the benefits of the tars are that they provide food for the bacteria and promote a diversity of life in your garden, especially now that we know of the synergy of all the other larger, but still microorganisms, like fungi, protozoa, and beneficial nematodes. Here is a great study done by researchers and published on the NIH website that gives us an even greater understanding and pushes us past the old paradigm: www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5466324/ Let me know what you learn from the article. I'm on the same quest as you!

[@GWFries-gb7sh]

Definitely, definitely, more is NOT known about biochar than what IS known.." Right, it's still a miracle how it works. Having different conditions, my approach is also different. With less time in the field, more for watching YT Videos and investigating while I'm working (with my hands) , I 1st thought about the history and understanding Portugues, I read a bit in available PDFs. Going back or observing other cultures in similiar circumstances, what would they do, how they prepare their stuff, cook their meals.. and how they extinguish their fires so that char could be left? In the Amazonas with so much water around wouldn't it be obvious to use it? Reading about the particle size of the examined char, I imagined just this process could led to those numbers in the short PDF down below. For sure the indigenous People of South American did not stomp their char, what factual incentive they would have had? - but Perhaps like this their char was soft enough to be ground over time by tillage, animals, erosion etc. Anyway, that's just my theory and I'm just on a journey as everybody else. Nevertheless I'm glad to have found your completely underrated channel with so much detailed work and a prescious motif - thank you.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

@@GWFries-gb7sh Thank you so much! One amazing thing to me is that, apart from all these man-made pockets of amazing fertility, that area of the world has some of the poorest soil on earth! Another amazing thing is that this fertility is self-regenerating. It is said that the terra preta gains about 12 cm (1/2 inch) per year in thickness even though more material is not being added. This second fact is what I'm trying to achieve in my garden with biochar and microorganisms which spread throughout the soil and mine it for nutrients and concentrate them in my garden beds.

[@SupahBon]

Hey there and thank you a lot for these great lectures! Have you heard about a birch-derived slow pyrolysis liquids? It is by-product from making biochar from birch wood. It is a non-toxic pest repellent. It has other great uses too like, if you have a cesspool, you just pour few liters of this stuff in and after awhile all the organic material have been cleared, only water is left. We use it in our outhouse, few sprays and all smells are gone. I think it is speeding up our composts too. It is fairly new material so not many studies. Only few Finnish studies can be found if you search: "Potential of the slow pyrolysis products birch tar oil, wood vinegar and biochar in sustainable plant protection : pesticidal effects, soil improvement and environmental risks"

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thanks for sharing this with us. I typed the phrase in you asked me and there's quite a bit of impressive research. Tell us where you purchased it from as it looks like it's not something easily made at home.

[@SupahBon]

@@LiveOnWhatYouGrow I got it from a finnish company called charcoalfinland and the product is called "ecokoivu". I dont know if they ship outside of Finland. You can ask them by email. Or you can try search if there is some company in your country doing this pyrolysis, they might not even know how good this stuff is!

[@zannafidler2466]

I love your gift of knowledge over something I've literally only just heard of tonight. And your sharing is so passionate and precise and prescient. Prescient, because I know our future is going to rely critically on your kind of expertise. Your enthusiasm is contagious and i truly wish I'm as good as you at crimping those cans. Thank you from my heart centre. Biochar well:))

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Wow, thank you!

[@b_uppy]

Like your simplified method of using a woodstove to make charcoal. Making charcoal out of difficult-to-otherwise-use materials is a great way to make biochar. For me it's a safe way to put bones in the garden without worrying about the dog eating them. The additives you show are extraneous because much of the benefits biochar is that it binds with soil to correct its properties. It also aids microorganisms in making insoluble nutrients available to plants. Avoid using synthetic chemical inputs, monocultures, annuals, tilling, etc on your garden to enhance natural soil fertility. Putting the charcoal directly into the soil also means avoiding having to store a big barrel of charcoal and applying the charcoal sooner means it goes to work right away...

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thanks for your viewpoint. Almost all of the science based studies I have seen show that putting biochar into the garden without charging it first will stunt the growth of your plants in the first year because the biochar pulls the nutrients out of the soil and temporarily make them unavailable to the plants. The purpose of charging the biochar in the barrels is to load them up with bacteria and nutrients BEFORE adding it to the soil so instead of of charcoal soaking up the nutrients FROM the soil, it will release the nutrients TO the soil. But it's quite possible, in my opinion, that what you're describing would work quite well on soil that already has lots of nutrients and soil life to correct its properties as you say.

[@b_uppy]

@@LiveOnWhatYouGrow Wonder if it is already harmed soil, or soil that has had little prior harm done to it.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

I've done it both ways and the way I'm doing it now works the best for me! I use the sheet method I describe in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gGTagaVqndyGaNE

[@b_uppy]

@@LiveOnWhatYouGrow What youce said is different than saying "my soil has been under organic, no-till, polycropped production for 15 years. I've tried it both ways and "precharging" the charcoal works best."

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

I also said that what you're describing would work quite well on soil that already has lots of nutrients and soil life, to correct its properties as you say. If my soil has been under organic, no-till, polycropped production for 15 years, my soil would be pretty darned good, and I said that what you said would work quite well for that!

[@bariaissa1737]

Thank you

[@janbuchener192]

Great, wow yes! I'll do that in winter, such a great idea with the cans, thank you.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

You're welcome!

[@iartistdotme]

Such good, researched, and scientific information - you do a great service. Thank you.

[@-ChrisD]

Another great informative video! Thanks for sharing with everyone.

[@ecotangokeithfugittrkkf733]

Thank you very much for sharing ❤

[@CanadianPermacultureLegacy]

Great video. I was hoping you would be adding water into it and you did. Your inoculation was fantastic. This is prime biochar right here! Amazing job on the video.

[@monicageter7004]

I found out about you from David The Good's channel, and I love the simple yet knowledgable approach to every topic you present. Yes we are stewards of our Heavenly Father's earth! I have a question... Since I don't have a wood stove, is it possible to place the bio char tork into a fire Im burning outside or even a regular fireplace?

[@greenwood4020]

there are many videos on Utube that demonstrate this with bigger cans (20-100L or 5g-25gallon ) inside 55gal US 44gal UK 200L steel drum fires.

[@jamesstidham4191]

Enjoyed your video very informative keep up the good work

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thanks 👍

[@ginaeaton6680]

A wood stove is such a multi-purpose asset!!

[@jerryspinosa5466]

I enjoyed the all natural and frugality ways in your video.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thank you!

Thank you - best biochar video I've ever seen. BTW I agree that bigger pieces is better ;-)

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Hi Michal, I clicked on your picture and went to your channel, awesome setup for your hydroponics! I have some experience with peppers, and since you have a long growing season, I would prune the tops off your pepper plants to get a bigger harvest. That causes your plants to bush out and produce more stems, buds, and more peppers. Maybe you could try it with one and see how it works for you. Here's how I would do it: Your plants are at the size you could cut the plant in half. After you cut off the tops, you'll see new stems coming from each of the leaf nodes. Each of the new stems will grow into what is like a whole new pepper plant... all on one plant! I'm not sure about that dark area in the nodes. That could hinder the production of new stems. When you top your plants at this stage of growth you could actually take the top and root it to turn it into another plant! Here's a link to a website that shows you how to clone peppers: growhotpeppers.com/pepper-plant-propagation/ I hope this helps!

@@LiveOnWhatYouGrow Thank you for your tip - I actually did it many times and that really works well for me. I am just not sure, witch of my papers you've seen - I got even one that is 15 yo :-) My baby came thru some bad times, but doing great most of the time. If you are interested, can send you some pictures of her :-)

[@vancamerawoman7399]

Yes,the effort you put in is directly proportional to the results you get out. 😊

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Isn't that true with everything?

[@andyroubik5760]

Well done. Thank you!

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Glad it was helpful!

[@SARJENT.]

I don't crush mine either. I like a variety of sizes. I believe that the larger sizes help prevent compaction and help with aeration. Thanks for sharing.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thank YOU!

[@xmobile.]

12:30 there's a can opener in existence that takes the entire top off of cans, rim and all. Not sure how to search to buy one, and not sure if you can roll it around a pull top can once it's been opened, but i assume you could. My mother has one. It's like a round rolling blade on one side and then a metal loop on the other side. I had no idea cans were glued together until i used her can opener. I would've assumed cans were all one piece of metal all melted/welded together.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

You don't want to remove the rim, it maintains the structural integrity of the cans and makes them last a lot longer especially after going through the fire a few times!

[@Th3SimpleLife.Project]

I'm here because of @davidthegood and I'd like to thank the both of you for putting this out there. ❤

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Welcome!

[@Horse237]

Thanks. I subscribed after seeing your previous video. I wanted to see how you heated those cans in the stove,

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Awesome, thank you!

[@michaelbessette8685]

I use powered biochar in my worm bins mixed in the bedding so it ends up in the castings.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Me too!

[@PierreDuhamel-lj1vb]

Were the castings darker... really...new heavy duty poop.. several life time guarentied as it is already one of the most durable form of soil Bravissimo ...

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

It's hard to tell because the biochar is mixed into the bedding and castings already!

[@timmcilraith8762]

That's one way I charge my charcoal too.

[@Casadoymantenido]

Thank you, I love your sharing heart.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thank you so much!

[@shiffongray1041]

Thank you for showing us how 💪🏼🙏

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

I think you're the first person to watch it!

[@michaelhogan9053]

If you pull the charcoal out hot and pour water on it, the charcoal will crack and cause more fissures for nutrients to grow.

[@PMclean-h5l]

I use an old stainless steel saucepan and lid.Fill it with sawdust or wood chips and put it in the wood heater overnight.Very easy and over time becomes a large quantity.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Nice, I hope people are reading the comments to see variations on how to do it!

[@gillianc4694]

Brilliant suggestion. Will try they as I dont have all the tools.

[@JustMe-gs9xi]

to:Live on what you grow :-- I COMPLETELY hear you on the state of the world. the instability of the planet grows. (not good). So, Great to Add that thought to all your video's. REminds me why i'm doing this!! Thank you. and besides Having Food,,, This Home Grown Food is FAR< FAR! Superior than the junk at the supermarkets here in NH, Farmstands are overpriced for my budget.... I was reading an article,,, That compares the nutrients in our foods in about the 1950's,, vs now,,, OMG,,, Most of the foods we buy today have 1/3rd to 1/2 !!!! of the nutrients at this time,,, That's Outrageous!,,, Happy Growing,,, thanks!

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thanks!

[@freon500]

Thank you very much for sharing this very useful knowledge with us. I can't wait to get started making my own, #10 cans, here I come. Awesome!

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Sounds great!

[@PierreDuhamel-lj1vb]

You have been sowing... interest been growing ...curiosity as a gardener...it is a new delicat product...in your garden. Thank you for the info on activated charcoal vs biochar. Looks like there is more exceptions than rules...

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thanks for saying that! Just make it any way you want and put it into your soil. (But please activate it first, or you may be very disappointed with the outcome!)

[@alexcampbell1895]

Thank you very much ! God bless you for sharing theses valuable lessons and guides!

[@CristianaONeal-Ibanez]

Thank you for your useful information

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

You are welcome

[@Chocoholiclady66]

Okay, I believe now I understand some things that just didn't make sense yet in the previous videos. Namely ... exactly what was meant by biochar ... and "biochar" vs wood charcoal and ash ... I believe, if I'm understanding this correctly now (microbiology I get very easily and pick up fast ... but the chemistry involved comes much more slowly), that using the cans helps increase/elevate the temperature to promote chemical reactions that makes the wood (or other organic matter) more structurally sound, stronger but still porous and biodegradable .. biochar = turning the cellulose into a more harder/firmer/durable skeletal frame work ... and with less of it being turned to ash or into the softer wood charcoal you typically get directly from just burning wood in a fireplace or wood stove ... so biochar breaks down more slowly over time ... slow release ... thus not having to add as often (or not at all once have the total amount/ratio needed and get the soil culture, etc. in proper balance). In turn it probably helps aerate the soil, lessens soil compaction, helps retain moisture yet also promotes better drainage ... better distribution of water throughout the soil so neither too dry nor overly saturated ... as well as and most importantly creating castles/homes and slow release continuous supply of nutrients for the kingdom of microorganisms in the soil which are needed to keep the soil healthier and more naturally self sustaining which of course healthier soil leads to healthier plants. Then, you inoculate it (aka activate it) with all the nutrients and water needed to encourage and get the beneficial microbes kick started. OH! And you get more heat output from wood stove ... which I'm guessing might cut down on the amount of wood needed (at least a little bit but maybe even significantly) to stay warm.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Yes to everything! The only thing I would add is that when you heat organic materials to 770°F everything else gets volatilized leaving the carbon behind. So cellulose, being C6 H10 O5 -- when you heat it to 770°F in the ABSENCE of oxygen, it separates the molecule into 6 atoms of Carbon (C6) and 5 molecules of water (H10 O5 divided by 5 is 5 molecules of H2O). (No Carbon dioxide is created and released into the atmosphere.) When you burn cellulose IN the presence of oxygen, it produces carbon dioxide (released into the atmosphere) and water with NO carbon left behind.

[@Chocoholiclady66]

@@LiveOnWhatYouGrow Got it! Thanks bunches for taking the time to explain!

[@Andluth]

Do you have problems with your chimney build up? With all that water vapor I would think Creosote would be a bigger problem than normal. Wonderful information and great video! Thanks!!!!

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Not at all, there is no more water in my woodchips than in any old log you burn!

[@AlpacaRenee]

Thank you! David the Good sent me to your channel. Great video!! New sub. The cans with the sharp lip, I use a can opener and remove the ring. Then it’s a smooth edge that’s not sharp.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Welcome!

[@maryschonover9313]

I am a new gardner at tgmhe age of 70+ years old. I gave a small fire pit and hope to be able to make some biochar. I have 3 above ground beds. I enjoyed your presentation. Mary

[@maryschonover9313]

I am interested in your communuty.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Make sure you're subscribed and click the notifications bell. Keep us updated on what's happening in your garden... and make a BIG compost pile and completely empty into your garden beds every year along with your biochar!

[@CanadianPermacultureLegacy]

Bio oils, Biochar and Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs). I'm not sure if you mentioned this in another video, but a really good thing to do is to crush char with your fingers when it's completed, and then run your fingers under water. If the bio oils come off, then the char is done. If the black all washes off well, it's done and most PAH are burnt off. If there is still an oily residue remaining, then you may have a lot of PAHs left, and these are carcinogenic. There is still dubious research about the pathway of PAH from soil to food, and as long someone doesn't then grow root crops, potatoes, tubers in that biochar, then they are likely okay. However, we need to be aware of that danger. I'm a huge proponent of biochar - I run coppice sumac systems for feedstock to it. I mention it in so many of my videos and guides. This is a really important aspect of char though. Great video overall, one of the better ones on youtube regarding biochar.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

A thank you for your comments! I've spent time thinking about what you’re saying, even before I started using and promoting biochar, and that’s partially the reason why I make biochar in my woodstove rather than in an open pit outside. Here’s a quote from this scientific study: pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acssuschemeng.2c00952 “The content of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) in biochar has been studied extensively; however, the links between biomass feedstock, production process parameters, and the speciation of PAHs in biochar are understudied. Such an understanding is crucial, as the health effects of individual PAHs vary greatly.” I fully agree with you that the research is dubious and that’s exactly what they have admitted in their study. That study, although it can be difficult to follow and understand, states that the smaller the biochar is crushed, the higher the number of PAHs. Also that the temperature reached during the pyrolysis determines the number of PAHs present. The study also noted that higher temperatures achieved in small lot pyrolysis destroyed most of the PAHs, while uneven temperatures utilized by open pit burning had the highest concentration of PAHs. So, to determine the temperature of your retort, here’s a chart denoting the colors of steel achieved at different temperatures. My retorts turn bright cherry-red to orange-red, indicating a temperature of @ 1500-1600°F (820-870°C): www.makeitfrommetal.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Heat-Colors-of-Steel.pdf I also studied PAHs outside of the world of biochar and I noted a study on the PAHs present in rainwater: publications.jrc.ec.europa.eu/repository/handle/JRC32562 I suppose there’s a silver lining to all this, and that is, the information found in the following study talks about specific bacteria that consume PAHs: journals.asm.org/doi/full/10.1128/AEM.66.5.1834-1843.2000 So the very fact that (correctly made) biochar is a home for, and conducive, to microbiological life, and the fact that our soils have been introducing PAHs to our soils through rainwater since the industrial revolution, leads me to believe that the specific bacteria needed to break down PAHs are already present in our soil, and using good farming practices including the use of biochar, facilitate the proliferation of those specific bacteria. If the correct bacteria are NOT present, facilitating that, in my opinion, should be the main focus of soil scientists. That’s why I’m so glad you brought it up. Perhaps those same scientists will someday study those bacteria that specifically consume PAHs and solve the food crises created by man! I believe the bacteria already exist in our soils evidenced by the sheer fact that we are able to grow food organically. However, they probably don’t live at all in lifeless chemically-based agricultural land! Without chemicals, you can’t grow food on those lifeless lands at all. With everything in consideration, I believe you must look at it from those bacteria’s perspective. They don’t view PAHs as toxins, they view them as a food source! Well-constructed biochar could actually be very helpful for these beneficial bacteria! It makes my garden grow great, and everything looks balanced fungally and bacterially under my microscope, so, unless shown otherwise, I view that as evidence as well of healthy soil!

[@leisuresuitlarry8311]

Great video and information. Thank you!

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Glad it was helpful!

[@graftedin3]

Good video , thank you for your time . I am going to work in that direction.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

You can do it!

[@salisatsat2816]

thank you very much sir .

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

All the best

[@albuterol71]

Cool vid! David the Good recommended you! I'll sub!

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Welcome!

[@WatchAnotherClip]

Love your videos. Not all anaerobic processes are bad, though. Bokashi is a way to use fermentation as a way to make compost. You can use charcoal in bokashi as well.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thanks, that's true but there are caveats. You ARE right, there are valuable uses for anaerobic organisms, and what I said also was right, but you have to follow my words carefully because they're easy to misunderstand: I didn't say all anaerobic microorganisms are bad, I said all bad microorganisms are anaerobic! The bokashi method uses anaerobic microorganisms to decompose organic matter faster, with the resulting product called *pre-compost*. You can also use this method of decomposition for meat and dairy-- things you wouldn't **_normally_** put in your compost pile! This *pre-compost* must either be buried in trenches in the garden or added to your traditional compost heap for further decomposition as it can harm your plants because of its acidity. Bokashi uses a *controlled process* that uses anaerobic microorganisms to break down organic matter. But then you must kill off those organisms before the resulting compost can be used in your garden. So if you do it right it IS beneficial! On the other hand, excluding air from a bacterially dominated compost pile, or having garden beds with hardpan underneath, (which also promotes harmful anaerobic bacteria), is not going to be beneficial for your garden.

[@WatchAnotherClip]

@@LiveOnWhatYouGrow Thanks for clearing that up.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

@@WatchAnotherClip Actually I appreciate you bringing it up so next time I make a video I'll be sure to talk about it!

[@wendyhusband4048]

Would then the bokashi juice not be good to add to biochar? Better to add to compost?

[@timmcilraith8762]

I've soaked dry wood chips in bokashi juice for a month, then buried them in garden soil. Not much left of them two months later.

[@davidcole8200]

Very interesting video. But I saw a safety concern. I have been in the chimney/hearth business for aprox 18 years. I am a certified chimney sweep certified through the CSIA. I know a few things by now. The wood on the left side of the woodstove was extremely close to it. That is a fire hazard. Keep combustibles 36" away from an unlisted woodstove. Check clearances for a listed stove, they vary. There is usually a data plate on the back of listed stoves. Be save.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

That metal plate on the side of the wood stove NEVER get so hot that I can't put my hand on it and keep it there, no matter how how a fire I have burning. Thanks for your concern though!

[@dannpurvis]

Another way to get the rim off of your cans is to use the can opener. You first have to take off the lid like you normally would use a can opener. Then you put it on its side and you just go around and cut the rim off of it with your can opener. I used to do this a lot when I was doing liquid nitrogen testing on my honeybee combs (to find out how hygienic the bees were).

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

The rim is actually needed, in my experience, to maintain the integrity of the can. When removed. I've found that the cans don't last as long. In addition, the edge becomes sharp, especially after they're been through the fire a few times.

[@DavidWilmering]

You could take a it a step further and bubble the water with a powerful air pump. It gets rid of any chlorine that can kill off bacteria and adds oxygen to the water. Thanks for the info!

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thanks for the advice... however, things are changing and some municipalities aren't adding chlorine anymore. They're adding chloramine, a much more powerful bacteriacide that does not dissipate from the water when you bubble the air through it! It's the world we're living in! I guess they have to do it. Imagine how many people could die if the water was contaminated by dangerous bacteria!

[@lindaschenck7013]

Wow…I know I’m late to the party but none the less, I’m going to take the time to thank you so much for your videos. I just made my first batch of charcoal in the retort I made from watching your video. Can’t tell you how excited I am! And grateful to have found your channel.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thanks for commenting. Make sure you watch the other videos in the Biochar Playlist so you'll know how to best activate and use it!

[@lindaschenck7013]

@@LiveOnWhatYouGrow I have watched them and am slowly watching through the rest of your videos. You are a gifted teacher! I just watched a video by David the Good showing and praising your retort. He did a very good job and gave you all the credit; told everyone to come to your channel to find out everything they needed to know to make one. It was a fun watch.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

@@lindaschenck7013 Thank you so much!

[@HarleyLockard]

Thank you.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

You're welcome!

[@5wisebannerguys]

I just love learning about this kind of stuff. I want to be able to grow the food that is put on my table. I can't wait to see your garden. Thanks.

[@sharonwebster2283]

We appreciate your time and expertise in this video and your others on gardening,composting and vermiculture. Best wishes from northern Canada.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

And we appreciate your comments. And best wishes to you!

[@gardenstatesowandsew]

Thank you so much. ❤

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

You're welcome 😊

[@tiemruoubinhan]

Thank you very much

[@gingerbeer849]

Can you make biochar from green wood? I can get all the heavy-chopped wood I want for free from my local tree service guys, but it is fresh, not dried. Second question: How well does this work when you put your cans in a burn pile or slash pile (common in timber country during logging, clearing, road building, etc.)?

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Yes, you can make it from green wood. Its moisture content will be a little higher so it will take a few minutes more to pyrolyze. But the worst thing is when it rains on your pile. I always fill my garbage cans, and dozens of 5-gallon buckets, with the chips the day they get delivered, and then bring them into to house to be converted to biochar in the winter. You can put your cans in any fire like you're describing as long as the cans turn cherry red meaning your retorts have reached 1500°F (815°C) for the best quality char!

[@paulanderson1915]

New to your channel, liked and subscribed. Inspirational.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

I appreciate that very much, Paul!

[@midwestribeye7820]

This is a very informative video! I wonder if this would work in a fireplace?

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Yes it will, as long as at least part of the can turns cherry red during the heating process, close to when it is done!

[@midwestribeye7820]

@@LiveOnWhatYouGrow Thank you for your response! Merry Christmas and God bless!

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

@@midwestribeye7820 Let me know how it works out for you!

[@Gary-lu4op]

Great content, well explained and your audio is set up properly. I noted the bones into Biochar were a good use of annoying neighbours.. HAHAHA. Subbed.

[@Gabi-lt4mx]

Edible acres takes containers from the gastronomy sector. Sean has a few videos regarding biochar

[@jeroenmichiels1067]

Great and simple idea! Someone asked me about any chemicals from the cans burning and/or leaking in the biochar. Do you know anything about that?

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

The only thing that's really in question is the lining of the cans. In my study, I believe that by heating the retorts to the temperature we do, about 1500°F, anything that's volatile, and potentially harmful, will be eliminated. If you are concerned, you can heat the empty cans red hot in the fire, remove them, let them cool, and then take a wire brush to clean out the residue!

[@kendi425]

David The Good sent me over to watch and subscribe. 😊

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Welcome, I hope you enjoy it!

[@markirish7599]

New subscriber. Best wishes from Ireland 🇮🇪 to you and your family and subscriber's

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thanks and welcome!

[@nataliegist2014]

Thank you for your information it is very informative and uncomplicated. There was a saying in the Army keep it simple stupid.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

I can do that...SIR!

[@stebarg]

Thanks! What about the coating of those cans? Have you information about effects of those coatings through the pyrolysis process?

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thanks Stefan, Here is a website that will tell you everything you need to know about the coatings: www.foodpackagingforum.org/food-packaging-health/can-coatings My personal view is that the high temperatures we're subjecting the cans to in the woodstove will volatilize anything that could be harmful. But you could first do the crimpings you need to do on the cans, and then put them into the fire empty, and then the coating comes off very easily with a wire brush AFTER you let them cool down.

[@nhtom8]

I like your approach to what could be called "lazy man's gardening." Still a lot of work, but working smarter. One nit: Perhaps you could term your compost and biochar mixture as "enriched biochar" instead of "activated" which could lead to confusion. Bio-enriched. Bio-infused. Charged.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

I like that idea. Probably the best way to say it is to include all the ways you mentioned all in one sentence. That way the fullness of the meaning will be understandable for everyone, including those who call it activated, or charged, which are the two most used terms! But I like enriched better!

[@joshd1512]

I had a question. I’ve been researching making bio char for only a few weeks. I’ve made about 1 five gallon bucket of charcoal so far. My question is how often should I be making more? You said you make about 500 pounds a year. From what I can find, the soil only wants a certain percentage of bio char. And the charcoal lasts for hundreds of years. So why do you need to add it year after year? Adding fertilizer and compost to the soil normally should be re charging the bio char yearly I think. So if the garden size is fixed, why do you need more?

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Hi Josh, thanks for your question. From what I’ve read in the studies people have done, the optimal amount of biochar for most crops is around 10% of the soil makeup. However, most of the tests were done in pots, where ALL the medium was mixed in precise ratios. In garden beds, the rooting area can be from 10 inches to three feet deep so using the results obtained from planting in pots is pretty irrelevant. But just assume your rooting zone to be 10 inches deep for convenience. You would need to apply one inch of biochar to get that 10% ratio. Your five-gallon bucket contains .67 cubic feet of biochar, so five gallons would only be enough to supply a 2x4 foot area to that one-inch depth. Once that area was completed you wouldn’t ever have to put any more in, except for the fact that as your fertility increases, your rooting zone could go from 10 inches to 30 inches, in which case you could add more. A full garbage can is about 125 lbs of activated biochar, and it’s about enough for one of my garden beds to about an inch thick. So I produce enough for about 4 beds per year. I presently have 25 beds and I plan on adding about 50 more on my property, so I will be making biochar for many years to come!

[@joshd1512]

This is very interesting. Thank you for the reply. I could easily calculate the amount or char needed in a 10 inch rooting area. And add in the yardage as I expand. The numbers don’t lie. I just wasn’t thinking of the over all scope of this. Unless I was able to make or buy a thousand pounds it will take years

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

@@joshd1512 The way I look at it Josh, and it's different for everybody, but if I'm going to heat my house anyway and I get free woodchips from the power company, why shouldn't I heat my house all winter for free with the woodchips? I don't think I can ever make too much in my lifetime! (I can always put it on my lawn!) Plus I'm preventing all that CO2 from going into the atmosphere.

[@echognomecal6742]

Sent by David the Good, & subscribed...even tho I had to mute during the metal noises 😉(ow.)

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Sorry!

[@echognomecal6742]

@@LiveOnWhatYouGrow 😊 thanks. It's a painful sound for some of us. (Anti-ASMR lol)

[@Doktracy]

I’ve been wondering if I could do this in my wood stove!

[@elleeo1495]

Thank you for this richly informed video. It is apparent that you've done a great deal of research in this subject. I've read some of the comments but forgive me if I'm repeating a question. Re: the PAH & safety of the biochar... you responded that it could be made in a fire pit as long as it reaches 1500 degrees. In the video, you show that it's done (in the wood stove) when the steam stops & flames shoot from the retort. Would this signify that it's hot enough in a pit? Also, would the can size impact the internal temperature if placed in a fire pit? Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

As long as the can turns cherry red you know it has reached that temperature no matter the size of the retort.

[@elleeo1495]

@@LiveOnWhatYouGrow thank you

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

You need to use steel cans for the retorts, and the steel conveniently turns cherry red when heated to that temperature. So once the steam and the flames STOP coming from the end hole and from the seams in the cans, you can be pretty sure you've reached the correct temperature!

[@elleeo1495]

@@LiveOnWhatYouGrow thank you for the clarification!

[@gregmartinsask]

I bet to add the char to compost pile in fall, a pile thats nearly or is finnished, and use it in spring for a no effert charging would work. getting a month and a half of activity before freeze up and the same during the thaw.

[@gregmartinsask]

i guess no one is heating in thesummer so the bulk of the char is avalable in the winter and spring, have you ordered mycogrow a spore of certain best fungi for plant roots maybe to add a spoon full would be extra great.

[@cherylbaker6806]

Pruned my roses yesterday, tomorrow biochar, thank you!

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Have fun!

[@kidvision564]

Great content. Liked and subscribed👍🏻

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Welcome aboard!

[@SpecialK8]

Awesome information!

[@flutterby.222]

Thanks for sharing this information. You may be taking your wood stove for granted a bit though. I don't have one nor do I know many people with one (I can think of one person about a 3hr drive away). Do you have any suggestions for those of us in the city without a wood stove or even a fire place??

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

You can make char in the retorts in any fire, so you could make a fire pit outside and make it. Or you can buy pre-mad biochar from a company like this: amzn.to/3Y8sUz4

[@richardpallotta6158]

Another great presentation. Do you have an opinion on using human urine to charge the charcoal? I have tried this, and so far have added 2 gallons... The charcoal ( from wood stove) has absorbed 90 %"of the urine so far and because the charcoal also absorb odors, it doesn't smell very much at all. This method is not for everyone, but as I said the ammonia smell is minimal and human urine contains many beneficial nutrients. Once the biochar is made, with whatever it's charged with, should it remain in the 'open air ' or can the container be sealed til spring?

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Yes, I use urine, and I think it's fantastic and safe, but as you said, it's not for everyone! Urine is sterile, and when I think of chicken manure and all the other things I put into my soil, urine seems pretty innocuous! For the second part of your question, GOOD Bacteria need air to live. If you cut off the air, anaerobic (bad) bacteria will take over and in all likelihood produce methane, That's why I always put air holes down into the char as it's charging. Anaerobes are your enemy in gardening! I just had an idea. Why not put perforated pipe down in the center of the biochar as it's being charged, kind of like a Johnson Su Compost Reacter, to get a constant supply of oxygen to the middle and bottom of the piles. Thanks for the inspiration!

[@richardpallotta6158]

Absolutely. I first thought of using paper towel or toilet paper cores, but perforated 1 1/2" pvc pipe could work...maybe 3 or 4 per container. I might also try a plastic mortar mixing tray (about 8" deep) to let the charcoal bathe in the urine, but then it could be easily turned over and airated .

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thanks much. I do the trays outside when the weather's warmer. But it's just more convenient to have it in a garbage can in the house and activating it AS I'm making it through the winter!

[@starofdestinykreationsplus]

Tysm for this video. After you add all the bios to your biocharge and let sit. What time frame can you use it?

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

If you use my sheet method as seen in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gGTagaVqndyGaNE you can use it almost right away as you're not mixing it with the soil. But I do like to charge it up for about 30 days at least!

[@starofdestinykreationsplus]

@@LiveOnWhatYouGrow ty! Good to know!

[@marklloyd6433]

do you think you can use 'wet' wood/ biomass in the tins ( with seasoned logs of course). Steam is pumping out of yours. Is this not damaging as burning wet wood on the stove? The injection of steam into the burn chamber might be preventing the combustion of wood gases, therefore creating more creosote in the flue? Maybe I'm wrong though?

[@marklloyd6433]

Really good video and info (I should also say!)

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Hi Mark, thanks for the question. I always use feedstock that's as dry as possible, but I have used woodchips that have been rained on. I usually put those in OPEN cans on top of the wood stove to dry out first, (but you have to watch them carefully or they'll start to burn). That will evaporate some of the water. One thing to remember is that *the expansion rate of water, when it turns to steam, is 1,700:1* meaning one cc of water will expand to 1,700 ccs of steam. So when you see steam pumping out of your retort, even if there's just a small amount of water, it will create a huge amount of steam, but there is still very little water in that steam. Even DRY wood contains some water but when you multiply it by 1,700 it looks like a lot!

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Thanks Mark, please subscribe to help us get the message out to more people. Not only will people have the best gardens EVER, and grow the most nutritious food for keeping healthy... they will also reduce the amount of carbon in the atmosphere by making biochar! It's a small FREE way you can partner with us to get the message out!

[@marklloyd6433]

@@LiveOnWhatYouGrow Of course, just have. Thanks for your reply. I tried your method last night and it worked well. Its going to take me a long time to build up a significant amount though!!

[@Cleisonspam]

Interesting technic. I'm thinking about using vermicomposting to charge my biochar. I'm not sure about how could this impact, so I'm starting with a low percentil in ratio to the total volume of the bin. You sir, have some experience or coments that you could give me about this topic? Sincerely welcome, from Brazil.

[@LiveOnWhatYouGrow]

Hello, honesty I don't believe it matters very much WHAT you put in as long as you're putting living biology in. From everything I've learned, you want your biochar to be 50% of the mix with the other 50% of everything else you put in. so it could be 50% biochar and 50% worm castings. Or it could be 50% biochar, 25% worm castings, 20% chicken manure, and 5% comfrey tea. Of course, these are general guidelines of what works for me. After you activate it in this way, you then add it to your garden soil at a rate of 10-20% of the top six inches, ideally, or add a scoop to your planting holes, (and mix it in thoroughly with the soil), when you don't have enough for the top six inches of your whole garden! That's my take. There are people who have devoted their lives to studying biochar and finding out the exact percentages, and even they would have to guess what would work best for your exact environment, soil type, climate, etc. But I would start with 50% biochar and a total of 50% of everything else. John

[@AselflimitedcapitalisemW0mamon]

This is good very very good