Making Cables for two REDODO LiFePo4 Batteries - 1444

[@aardwolf21]

You talked about not wanting to start a fire, then deliberately try to cause one. At 13:00 you soldered the screw terminal connections. These are designed to clamp copper, solder will cold flow under the pressure of the screw over time and loosen, guaranteeing a loose joint, heat and possibly fire (the practice is an instant fail in many safety standards for this reason). For your own sake cut the soldered section out and clamp into the bare copper, please.

[@fransvankralingen725]

You have cable and lugs - easy to make a cable-busbar (not a bar - but hey). You also have connector cables between your pylontech(s) they will probably also fit between the redodo(s). Suggestion, open up the pylontech(s) look at the used cell's and order 2 more to make a 16s2p cell* battery - also need a new 16 cell bms --- *=D.I.Y.

[@DashcamDriversGermany]

I'm an electrician in Germany. After I saw how you made your cables, it made me cringe very hard. Those cables are a fire hazard. I have the same Crimping tool and had the same problem with loose Connectors. The reason was that they were so cheap that the wall thickness wasn't sufficient (or the cable isn't that what its advertised). What's better than soldering in your case is to select one side with a smaller diameter. So, using 16mm² and 10mm² to crimp a 16mm² cable. Again, it's not a solution, but it is better than soldering.

[@OstenTV_DK]

You should really edit out the high pitch coil wind when filming next to the solar inverter. It is painful to watch with headphones.

[@MyPlayHouse]

Okay,, I did hear it, but thought the sound compression would kill that..

[@astplatinum]

@@MyPlayHouse Comes through on speakers too!

[@yamamoto65536]

it induced my tinnitus😀

[@tureutzon1892]

Hvis kablet ikke sidder fast ved krympning så er lodning noget af det værste du kan gøre. Sker der en fejl og kablet opvarmes så smelter lodningen og du risikerer kablet falder ud og laver kortslutning. Du kunne evt krympe den med en mindre mm2 - altså i stedet fot en 25 mm2 så med en 16mm2 i din tang

[@tomaskolinger]

Yes, many consumer cables and all cheap ones are aluminium not copper, not only starter cables but also UTP cables, basically any cheap cable is aluminium because it's way cheaper to use CCA than copper. CCA has >150% of the resistence thus you need >1.5x thicker conductor to match copper. You also find very cheap mains cables from overseas with CCS (copper clad steel), that's very bad choice - 10x the resistance, 10x the thicker cable...

[@peetsplcchannelnice6912]

Cable crimping must be done from the eye , and better use class6 cable is better.

[@alexanderal-bahrani249]

I would not place the batteries down there unless being absolutely sure the basement will never flood.

[@MyPlayHouse]

I have had the house for 20-ish years,, never had water in there yet..

[@thomasdesloovere4200]

Starter cabels are not recommended because they are most of the time they are made from cheap copper or CCA (copper clad aluminium). So yeah you get what you pay for.

[@JasonsLabVideos]

To solder properly, you need lots of heat & flux. Buy some liquid flux, dop the end of the copper into it. Slide your connector on, then use a mini torch to heat up the connector base as it gets hotter flow your solder into it. Then Cool it. Using a soldering iron as weak as yours it's just not going to work.

[@MyPlayHouse]

Ahh come on,, you saw it,, and it works fine, takes a bit to heat it all up. But soldered it was.

[@sybreeder86]

@@MyPlayHouse Until it will melt during high load...

[@JasonsLabVideos]

@@MyPlayHouse I watched and said NOPE thats not going to work properly you need that solder deep inside :P

[@Leebobs1983]

FIRST

[@MyPlayHouse]

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