Making Lime putty

[@readoryx373]

I am soaking up this info, thank you so much. When I mix stuff, I find it more efficient to add (most) water first, then powder, as it produces less dust, takes less energy to spin, much less sticky hard stuff on the sides and bottom, much less cleanup and scraping at the end. I put the mixing blade in with the water before burying with powder, allowing mixing to begin at the bottom. When too hard, pull up and unmixed water swooshes down in to the bottom center and everything is instant chunky gravy, so to speak, ready for a quick whip up with fewer large dry bits and jams against the bucket. Love :)

[@oldhousediy]

Thanks 👍🏻

[@puntabachata]

How long do you let it set up before using?

[@oldhousediy]

@@puntabachata I let it mature for at least 3 months but I have two barrels, one in use and one maturing. Means I always have some on hand ready.

[@Padraigp]

I just used a potatoe masher. Left it liquid and then it seperated

[@Padraigp]

It always says add lime to water not water to lime on the bag too doesnt it?

[@gazisher2372]

I really like that you completed the lime cycle! This was the first video I watched that actually demonstrated the final step in the cycle.

[@oldhousediy]

Thanks.

[@SaratGodbole]

I love diy work and experimenting. This is the right info video for me.

[@oldhousediy]

Thanks.

[@bpmills222]

Great explanation, thank you. I understand NHL is suitable for "wet" brickwork conditions though? Basements, very exposed areas etc? Looking forward to seeing the next steps and putty in use

[@oldhousediy]

Yes, NHL is traditional for wet areas as it will still “set” in the presence of water. I used NHL as opposed to putty in this case because I wanted it set so I could get on with the grinding.

[@Padraigp]

Yup i used it outside to fix holes in the path of my period house its just marvelous stuff.

[@tobiramasenju5878]

Thank you so much. I have watched and read lime cycle to understand how it works, with little success. Your video explained it so well and completed the cycle. Great video and very helpful

[@oldhousediy]

Thanks, glad you found it helpful. Please keep subscribed for more lime related content.

[@philomena333]

Ill put my vid up of quicklime making, maybe explain diffrenece too of diffrent nhl and lime & what background thier good for.

[@oldhousediy]

The more out there the better it is for old buildings.

[@tzuno2068]

Hello! Can i use it to render concrete walls? any advice on how to prep the concrete wall before plastering with lime, thank you!

[@davidmoye2354]

NHL can be used for brickwork. It's just got quicklime in it so it is setting by pulling hydrogen ions from the water. Hydrated lime has all the hydrogen receptors filled and sets by pulling carbon from CO2 in the air which is much slower but also doesn't make the bubbles.

[@oldhousediy]

Yes, NHL can be very versatile. There is discussion amongst the purists that NHL while still breathable is harder than putty or hot lime. However, NHL has still got to be better than OPC.

[@ptolemyauletesxii8642]

I don't think that's right.

[@chandlerpetersen1244]

What would you use for repointing a fieldstone foundation? I have a 1900 rubble/fieldstone foundation. In the summer months it really gets humid down there I have to run a dehumidifier constantly. Which would be better?

[@smsm4356]

​@@chandlerpetersen1244 check out the boys from Core Conservation who have videos of various scientific experiments they have done on basement dampness and salinity

[@soundbwoikilla764]

@@chandlerpetersen1244 NHL 3.5 with mason's sand

[@playsinclay]

Thank you so much for this detailed explanation of the difference in hydrated lime and quick lime. Here in the states, it was almost impossible for me to find anything but hydrated lime which had to be ordered. When I added it to water, it did not undergo the quick chemical reaction like some of the other videos. I am slaking mine but now see that I need to add much more lime and mix it well then just have a skim of water on the top.

[@oldhousediy]

Hydrated lime is not quicklime so you’ll not get the violent reaction. This is much gentler and slower.

[@soundbwoikilla764]

In the US you can't use Type S hydrated lime (which is what we have in the US) as he does in the video. The US version of type S hydrated lime is different and is not intended or formulated to for this purpose. If you do use US Type S hydrated lime, it won't set up properly and will ultimately fail.

[@annashealthylifeeverything8583]

​@@soundbwoikilla764what is it formulated for?

[@soundbwoikilla764]

@@annashealthylifeeverything8583 Type S in the US is formulated to be mixed with portland-based cement and mortars to improve workability characteristics (i.e., as a plasticizer) and help control setting times. It has a higher amount of dolomitic lime vs calcium lime which is why it won't set up properly and will crack and lead to failure. In the UK, high calcium Type S hydrated lime is available which is why the UK guys can make it work. The only way to make true lime putty (usable for mortar and plaster) is to make it from quicklime (not readily available in the US). Now, you can probably use Type S as he does in this video to make a lime wash, but I wouldn't use it in any structural or plaster applications.

[@Sirzerty]

Thanks so much for that explaination@@soundbwoikilla764 I've been watching a lot of UK vids and trying to figure out why their Type S works fine but ours doesn't, was seeing a LOT of conflicting info, but that explained it all.

[@peterbermingham3197]

Great video thanks, being looking for a good while on how lime putty is made used to make it years ago with my grandfather but i was only young (didn't pay attention) dose the plastic barrel not get mad hot with the chemical reaction

[@oldhousediy]

Thanks. The barrel doesn’t get hot because I am using hydrated lime which has already been partly slaked; However Water and Quicklime will generate a lot of heat. Hydrated lime is easier, safer and can be bought from a lot of builders merchants.

[@peterbermingham3197]

@@oldhousediy oh right i get it now thanks

[@lee-im7bw]

Do you need to leave it to mature for that long or could you get away with a couple of weeks? Thanks for posting the video 👍

[@oldhousediy]

It is supposed to be but you may. I keep two on the go so I don’t have to worry. You may be able to speed it up a bit by a couple of intermediate mixings. Taking a sample and letting it cure is a good way to test results.

[@lee-im7bw]

@@oldhousediy Thanks for the reply and good idea about having two on the go.

[@malik51973]

Nice vedio,and how can we make lime mortar for bricks lying and how can make waterproof and strong wall plastering using lime ?? Pleas describe the ratio of each material for lime mortar and lime plastering for exteriors,

[@oldhousediy]

I’d really recommend this booklet, only £5 and really great resource. Gives details on all the mixes as well as more background on lime. www.blackdogpress.co.uk/product/lime-in-building-a-practical-guide-by-jane-schofield

[@caj5549]

I've use a ratio of 2 sand to 1 lime putty for mortar ( using a repointing gun for deep fill in the limestone blocks) .. I made the lime putty ratio of 2 water to 1 hydrated lime and let it mature a sealed bucket.

[@barbadosslimful]

Thanks for the video - the ending clarified the confusing part of the science for me. I'm located in the Southern part of Hungary, and unfortunately i'm finding it difficult to find NHL - the products I've found are pre-mixed with sand and are quite expensive. I do find quite a lot of 'Hydrated Lime' (CL-80S) - however the folks at the shop have assured me this will crumble if I try to mix it with sand and water and will not work. They've pointed me towards concrete base products instead. I'd like to repoint my field stone basement (probably built in the last 80 years or so). If I was to slake my own CL-80s as you've done in this video - do i need to mix in any additives along with the sand once it's matured, or will it be OK by itself?

[@oldhousediy]

No additives needed (apart from the aggregate). Try to get the hydrated lime as fresh as possible because it can carbonate in the bag if really old. I would also recommend making a batch then taking a small sample to cure while the rest of the batch matures.

[@pmlm1571]

Do you have an educated guess what kind of "mud" or "coating" or "stucco" layering pairs best with strawbale? In a hot high desert climate with monsoon season and winter freeze? The goal is non-painted low-maintenance non-cracking final coat (all fill, rough and final layers adhering well to wall and to each other). And for exterior walls to be weather-resistant as far as their coatings go, while interior walls breath more. Same questions for earthbag walls. I follow many private experiments underway in the western USA and the possible ingredients are seemingly endless, with so many problems...

[@oldhousediy]

I would for sure go with lime render / plaster putty, sharp sand and fibre. There is more on lime plaster here. Treating damp kzbin.info/www/bejne/jmXQh5R5gtScqK8 You can even coat in lime wash made from the putty, it’s a very easy and cheap paint option.

[@pmlm1571]

@@oldhousediy Thank you, will follow your link. You should know!

[@mainstreampropaganda7518]

I would like to do the interior walls of my apartment - what can i do to speed up the slaking process of lime putty? I have seen others immediately apply it after mixing- can someone elaborate on the necessity of really slaking so long for my needs please?

[@oldhousediy]

Making hot lime maybe an option.

[@thelampstands8181]

How much water was used to rehydrated the bag of hydrolime?

[@Filkersons]

Thanks for the video. Very informative. Could this putty be used to produce lime putty ribbons when tuckpointing? Thanks.

[@oldhousediy]

I wouldn’t see why not. (I’ve not done any tuck pointing with ribbons, sounds complicated and slow.)

[@douglashill4007]

One of simplest and best on this subject.Thank you

[@oldhousediy]

Thanks 👍🏻

[@martinrossouw]

Great video! Lime is not a product that we use in South Africa. How long can the lime pure be kept in the container without hardening?

[@oldhousediy]

As long as it’s kept underwater (so it doesn’t carbonate) it can keep for a very long time. My normal problem is not having enough 😂

[@fleaniswerkhardt4647]

The diagram at the end was really good.. You've put the mix in a sealed container for 3 months - what is happening chemically then> Why does it take so long? What is the minimum time for this process to take place? How long does it take to a CO2 from the atmosphere and harden? BTW, you should always put the water first - it makes it much easier to mix and there's very little chance of unmixed chunks left at the bottom.

[@oldhousediy]

The 3 month maturing is not chemical it is just to ensure that the mix is fully hydrated.

[@noelgriffin5934]

I want to do my house with Lime inside and out, we are in kenya so no frost to worry about where we are, we are using interlocking soil stabilized bricks for the walls, should I use putty mixed with sand for the scratch coat and finish with a pure lime putty top coat. Thanks N

[@oldhousediy]

Pure lime tends to crack without aggregate, although it is sometimes used as a version of thick limewash to fill any surface cracks.

[@myroslavajacklitsch6039]

Thanks a lot for the very important and useful info!!

[@oldhousediy]

Thanks.

[@sleepingdragon93]

Isn't making non-hydraulic lime from hydrated lime damaging to stone work?

[@oldhousediy]

No, this is just lime putty. Hydrated lime as used here is quicklime that has already been partly slaked (to a powder) not fully hydrated such as when soaking quicklime direct to lime putty. All this is doing is completing the hydration into putty. This is not Naturally Hydraulic Lime (NHL) which is the one that “sets” quicker (even underwater, hence the hydraulic). NHL based mixes have been found to get harder and harder over time and can be damaging.

[@davidrichardson446]

Can you add sharp sand at the mixing stage for repointing at 1:2 mix ? Will doing that affect the shelf life in any way or is it inert.

[@oldhousediy]

You could but you would end up with a much bigger volume to mature. You can also use the putty for a lot bigger range than just pointing mix and pre-mixing would prevent that.

[@davidrichardson446]

@@oldhousediy No that's fine, I only want it for repointing

[@youubik]

Hi great video you brought the carbon cycle to life I've made a NHL/sand mortar mix for pointing, however I found it quite hard to work with, crumbly and difficult to stick to brick surface. Is a lime putty/sand mix easier to work with How long can you keep the lime putty once it has matured for 3 months

[@oldhousediy]

Thanks. Putty based is easier to work with, particularly if you knock it up once, wait and hour and knock it up again before using it. Mature lime putty if kept away from the air under a water top and away from frost will last years.

[@youubik]

@@oldhousediy Many thanks

[@chaffity1231]

Great video! I don’t suppose you could tell me how many litres the barrel holds?

[@oldhousediy]

I use a 60 litre barrel and two bags is a bit to much.

[@thecrazychemist]

What size plastic drum are you using to fit two bags of hydrated lime? 60L?

[@oldhousediy]

I think it is a 120 L

[@timg1713]

Will this work with type s hydrated lime? Thanks for the video!

[@oldhousediy]

I believe so. I always advocate making a test sample to make sure it will carbonate okay.

[@soundbwoikilla764]

Here in the US, type s hydrated lime is not suitable for lime mortar. Although you can make a so-called lime putty in the same way with type s hydrated lime, the lime will not carbonate and set up property. If you use it for mortar, it will eventually fail. You can use type s to make lime wash or a thin finish coat where there is no structural stress, but you'll need to add additives to help its bondability. In the US, you'll need to use NHL to make lime mortar (2.0 or 3.5 depending on your application), OR you'll need to purchase pre-made lime putty (which is made from quicklime) for mortar purposes, but that can be very expensive. The info out there that suggests you can substitute type s for NHL in lime mortar for structural use is wrong. Type s is used as an additive to portland cement to give the mortar certain properties and that's why there is no technical info on using type s alone to make a putty for lime mortar.

[@chandlerpetersen1244]

Would NHL be ok for repointing fieldstone Foundation? I live is Wisconsin and have a 1900 house thank you

[@soundbwoikilla764]

@@chandlerpetersen1244 I used NHL 3.5 to repoint my fieldstone foundation. I discussed this with and got additional advice from one of the companies here in the US that sells NHL.

[@bricklayersworldwithandy6277]

Just seen this, 20 years ago in Spain where you couldn't get lime products other than Hydrated i made a putty with it and rendered part of my house with it, still there now👍. Wouldn't bother now in the UK as matured lime putty is cheap enough.

[@oldhousediy]

Good to hear, and glad it’s lasted well. Thanks for sharing.

[@bricklayersworldwithandy6277]

@@oldhousediy 👍

[@DarenHarmon]

I wish more home owners and mason workers understood the importance of lime mortar and lime plaster in historic homes! I should add yard irrigation installers as well since they love to design sprinkler systems that spray all over exterior walls! Haha Rising damp is an issue even in wet desert climates. Being ignorant to this issue alone can unravel an entire historic home!

[@oldhousediy]

Thanks. Good point about the sprinklers, don’t have the need for them in the rainy UK.

[@principle_lecture]

I can't say whether the lime he is using here is the same as tge Type S hydrated lime where I am from, but I can say that the Type S hydrated lime from midwest U S A is not made or intended for use as a mortar or concrete component, and will most likely not work for you if you are trying to make plaster or mortar. I mixed mine and let it set and remixed it, added sand, and carefully made it into a usable consistency, and trowelled it on my walls. My walls were, incidentally , prepped with a brown coat as a typical plaster wall should be, U found that this mixture was chalky and did not adhere with any uniformity, and had terrible hydration crack issues. I used what I had left as kind of a pigment instead of a bonding ingredient by adding Type N white masonry cement to my mix in a recommended ratio with sand to make a sand plaster mix.

[@oldhousediy]

Thanks, it was interesting to hear about the US types. (Even the hydrated lime over here, if it’s old, will not work.)

[@caj5549]

I have been making lime putty using hydrated lime, I let it mature and then I make lime mortar using the lime putty and sand to repoint my very old stone house the traditional way.. you have to wet/dampen the surface first before applying the lime mortar so I'd say the same for lime plastering or rendering using the lime putty .. and ensure to lightly dampen surface as it cures.. if your plastering didn't adhere and cracked its because the surface was to dry.

[@soundbwoikilla764]

Type S in the US has higher amounts of dolomitic lime vs calcium lime and is not intended or suitable for mortar or plaster applications. In the UK and probably elsewhere in Europe you can get high calcium hydrated lime which will work for mortar and plaster. This is precisely why it didn't work for you.

[@ineedhoez]

Where did you get this information?

[@lk9225]

Stupid question , what happens if you use straight away without waiting for it to mature ?And is it the same stuff they mix it gypsum?

[@oldhousediy]

The maturation time is to allow it to fully hydrate. Some people do get away with using it straight away but 3 months is the norm. It also depends what your doing, if it’s critical and where your doing it. (I wouldn’t be doing external lime work now anyway because of the frost risk.)

[@northlondonmasons107]

Hi mate thanks for the video Do you have any reccomendation for lime pointing ratios in NHL 3.5? Here in London the usual is a 3-1 But I have just checked my work after about 6 months and it's way too hard , so I have to weaken it down a bit

[@oldhousediy]

NHL 2 is softer than 3.5 (and 5 is hardest)

[@chrisrobson6446]

NHL 2 is often harder to get. Try mixing lime putty with 3.5 half and half and it will get you somewhere near. NHLs just contain fired impurities (clays etc) which make them react and set with water. Easy way of thinking about it is air lime and water lime. BTW I personally find NHL 3.5 horrible to work with and adding some putty makes it stickier anyway.

[@northlondonmasons107]

@@chrisrobson6446 thanks for the comment, thats a good shout, i did think of that funny enough, on my weather struck mixes, im going to put 3quarters of nhl in a paint kettle and the last quarter hydrated lime and then 3 building sand, just to weaken it down slightly, will probs do the same on flush pointing, only trouble is with flush pointing and using too much hydrated in a flush joint, is its harder to finish , over time a 3-1 nhl mix i believe is too strong especially for soft reds, (not rubbers ovcourse)

[@davidrichardson446]

Is Hanson hydrated lime the same as Blue Circle hydrated lime?

[@oldhousediy]

I think so, check the Product Data Sheets to make sure it is pure hydrated lime and no additives, particularly cement.

[@Chrisvrscrx]

I just bought some of this. I need it to point my house. It says make the putty 24 hours before use. Is this ok for pointing? I didn’t expect to wait months

[@oldhousediy]

Traditionally it is always 3 months (or more), however, you could always make a batch and make some test renders to see how the set/cure.

[@davidrichardson446]

What is the recommended ratio of water in litres to hydrated lime in kg please?

[@oldhousediy]

A lot, just keep mixing and adding. It wants to be over saturated, any excess with then eventually sit on top and form the water seal to keep the air (CO) out.

[@marcotemes4886]

Hi is the putty also used for repointing? Thanks for showing the video.

[@oldhousediy]

Yes, it can be (when mixed with the correct aggregates).

[@chandlerpetersen1244]

What aggregates would mix it with? I have a 1900 fieldstone foundation/rubble foundation and it has a lime based mortar. I am tossing up the idea of using a NHL or Hydrated Lime Putty. Thanks

[@oldhousediy]

@@chandlerpetersen1244 I’d use 1 putty to 3 sharp / grit sand. The bigger sharper aggregate will help in that application.

[@piotrrostow]

​@@oldhousediy is it better to mix quicklime with sand which is then slaked with water or to mix matured lime putty and sand? What you think

[@caj5549]

@@piotrrostow I find it easier to use lime putty for making lime mortar

[@carllupica7148]

Where do you get the barrel from? Thanks.

[@oldhousediy]

EBay, there are loads available.

[@sakshi7146]

Can i use the mixture right away to lime wash on walls

[@lelins300]

Please wait for atleast seven to ten days It will have a better finish

[@oldhousediy]

I’d leave it at least a bit to properly hydrate otherwise it may be very powdery. (And limewash suffers with being powdery.)

[@davidjason1164]

Can I use this for tuck pointing

[@oldhousediy]

Yes 👍🏻

[@davidjason1164]

@@oldhousediy Thanks, just order a Jeffrey Dahmer blue bucket… you want to watch the exorcist 2 ?

[@almusti]

Brilliant video and thanks for sharing it. When will this putty be ready to use? I take it you couldn’t use it straightaway?

[@oldhousediy]

It normally gets left to mature for at least 3 months. The maturing process just makes sure that it is properly rehydrated all the way through.

[@almusti]

@@oldhousediy does that mean you have to mix it well in the first place and also mix occasionally within the 3 months? I assumed you’d just seal the lid and that’s it. By the way, I’ve ordered the book you recommended on line for a fiver! The same book is sold on eBay for £14.99 plus pp. thanks for that 👍🏻👍🏻

[@oldhousediy]

@@almusti I normally mix once in the tree months but in the old days it was just left in the lime pit. (The eBay mark up is shocking, the author, Jane, is very helpful and knowledgeable. The eBay resell is naughty.)

[@lefteyedspy]

@@almustiWhat is the book?

[@almusti]

@@lefteyedspyLime in building - a practical guide by Jane Schofield find it at the Black Dog Press

[@AdamBechtol]

Thx. I enjoyed the cycle at the end also.

[@oldhousediy]

Thanks.

[@davidrichardson446]

What is the capacity of the blue container?

[@oldhousediy]

It’s a 60 ltr barrel, I can JUST get two bags of lime in one.

[@paradoxdea]

Question: What is lime putty used fir?

[@oldhousediy]

It’s for making lime based mortar, render and plaster. The traditional breathable option for period properties.

[@namsoemmanson8338]

Beautiful video. Please i want to make wall panels with gypsum powder, can i combine with hydrated lime to make it more strong? Thank you

[@oldhousediy]

No idea, but generally lime and gypsum are not used together as they are different time periods.

[@DanielBelzil]

Is it possible to make an all lime finish plaster?

[@oldhousediy]

I’ve never done a pure putty finish. I’ve heard the lack of aggregate increases cracking and I understand fine marble dust can be used as a fine aggregate. BUT I have used a thick lime wash slurry as the first coat to help the finish quality with good results.

[@northlondonmasons107]

Bottany or silver sand can help

[@reachforthesky1849]

I cannot find any information that supports using 100% hydrated lime for mortar/plaster/render. Why does it need maturing for such a long period of time? If good results are achieved by the simple process of creating a putty out of hydrated lime why does the conservation and heritage sector continue to use putty derived from slaked quicklime?

[@oldhousediy]

It’s all about the lime cycle, hydrated lime is just a different point. Professionals don’t do it as it is just an easy (for them) to slake directly and use hot lime or leave it to mature as putty. The maturation time is to enable the water to fully saturate and complete the reaction.

[@annashealthylifeeverything8583]

​@@oldhousediycan I use quicklime and use it direkt as hot mix? They sell quicklime everywhere but not hydrated lime

[@oldhousediy]

@@annashealthylifeeverything8583​​⁠slaked quick lime as hot mix is a very good option (better than this method). I’ve struggled getting decent quantities of quicklime at a sensible price near me.

[@ramseshasanin5043]

Is non hydrated lime made from hydrated lime?

[@oldhousediy]

Not sure where in the cycle NHL (which is Naturally Hydraulic Lime ) comes from but it has impurities in it which make it set in the presence of water. It is NOT “non hydrated lime”, there is no such thing, it is Naturally Hydraulic Lime (NHL).

[@philomena333]

Please join traditional listed building. As all sold not pure or the same. We did debate read pdf on each lime bags. This has additives in it and thats why its cheaper than hanson hydrated lime, which hanson hydrated is more lime content in it. Limlite i throwaway as i read pdf mix alot ingredients. Best st aistier nhl2 and nhl 3..5 i used. I only now use tarmac quicklime, best overall in market. Sll like are not same. Some have cemituis to it like cement

[@oldhousediy]

Yes, I’m there already. I do use NHL in limited applications as I’m aware of their issues. Putty based is my preference made from hydrated lime as in this video. (I also always let some set up once I make the match to check it cures properly.)

[@WitmanClan]

Thank you 🙏

[@oldhousediy]

Your welcome.

[@tyebo2010]

how odd that the product with 'natural' on the bag is the one with the additive

[@oldhousediy]

It’s natural impurities 😂

[@raymondpeters9186]

A better way to load the barrel is to put in a measure amount of water then add lime

[@oldhousediy]

The aim is to over hydrate so you don’t even really need to measure the water. Any excess will form the water seal.

[@ricokrellmann5281]

First water, second lime. 😂

[@oldhousediy]

It’s not quick lime so it’s not as important.

[@martyjansing2675]

10 pounds of hydrated lime to one gallon of water. Add lime to water . I'm too lazy to do the conversion... HAaa

[@oldhousediy]

Yeap, keep mixing and keep adding water. An excess of water is what you want as it needs to be stored under a water top anyway. It will not effect the consistency of your muck as that is governed by the dryness of the sand and if / how much water you add. (Don’t add to much and beware how much more fluid it becomes on the second knock up.)

[@martyjansing2675]

@@oldhousediy I have a building from 1864 to do. Starting on lime stone foundation in really bad shape. I have 100 gallons of putty about 5 months old. I'm going to use crushed lime stone instead of sand. I think that stone will speed up strength development. And the end result of mortar turning back to stone. .What do you think?

[@oldhousediy]

@@martyjansing2675 not sure the limestone will help speed up the process as it has already carbonated but it will not hurt.

[@michaeljamesdesign]

This isn't lime putty. Lime putty is slaked lime left to mature for around 6 months. All you've done here is hydrate some lime. It ain't the same bud. If it was we'd all be doing this.

[@oldhousediy]

Respectfully disagree. If you understand the lime cycle hydrated lime is already partly slaked, hence the “hydrated”, as in to add water. All I am doing is completing the hydration and allowing it to mature. There are lots of reasons people chose other methods such as hot lime or buying putty. This suits my usage / needs best.

[@michaeljamesdesign]

@@oldhousediy I've tried running lime hydrate to a putty and it goes nowhere after it's had water added. You can put bags of it in the mixer and it just keeps eating it. You can't mature it either as it goes like hard cheese and plastering with it is more arduous than with a hot mixed mortar because it's less workable. It's a different lime to slaked lime putty. If it were that good we'd all be doing what you're doing.

[@oldhousediy]

You’ve obviously had a very different experience to me. I’ve used this method lots of times with good results.

[@horizontbeskrajneinovacije6440]

thank you...nice demonstration... btw.sound is awful

[@oldhousediy]

Thanks. (and yes sound is the bane of a KZbinrs life.)

[@drjonritz]

Lightbulb moment: I've been told that the process of making lime (and concrete) emits a ton of "greenhouse gas CO2" but the CO2 get absorbed again in equal parts as it's cured, so....net-zero.

[@oldhousediy]

That’s true to a certain extent (in-efficiencies, thermal losses etc) for Lime but I’m not sure it is true for concrete. Lime is a cycle, the source is the same as the end product, but concrete is not. (The carbon footprint of a new property vs and old property is a massive topic.)

[@MamacoSouls]

Not true at all. Making lime requires high temperatures, above 800°C. Portland cement is even worse, above 1300 degrees C. Some countries even requires the kilns to burn old tires and used oil as fuel. In the old days people would make their own lime using firewood but it wouldnt reach enough high temperatures, generaly around 600°c so it was a low quality lime, thats the type of lime mortar you will find in countryside houses all around europe.

[@marcustschierschke3804]

Are you kidding me😂 putty is made from quicklime not from hydrated lime. Homework mate.....

[@oldhousediy]

Hydrated lime is made from partly slaked quicklime (partly, so it is still dry), all this process is doing is hydrating it further. Lime cycle.

[@daniellivings6638]

3 months?! Who TF has time for that

[@oldhousediy]

It allows the line to fully hydrate. It used to be a bigger problem slaking quicklime as the lumps can be quite large and take a long time to hydrate completely. Hot lime is a quicker (but more dangerous) process if you are desperate.

[@baldyslapnut.]

People doing a proper job...🙄

[@Partlycloudy70degrees]

You have to plan these projects ahead of time.

[@SamotOremor]

thank you this is the real way to do it.

[@oldhousediy]

Thanks