Making Your First Model Kit - Beginners Step-by-step build of the Tamiya FRS1 Sea Harrier

[@rustykilt]

As an old model builder, started in 62, I really find it valuable to go back to basics with videos such as this. Appreciate your detailed and user friendly modeling projects. I have picked up a lot of good advice. thankyou.

[@cushionbelly2519]

Finally, someone saying deck-als and not Dee-cals. Cheers for that. And cheers for the video. I've just got this model from the loft as my next build.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Join the following my friend....if they only knew the power of the Deck-al side! :-D Be sure to share the build when you've finished it!

[@vaughanlockett658]

Thank you , nice introduction into plastic kit building. It takes time to put this tutorial together and is much appreciated. I am a seasoned modeller myself but every day is a learning day.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thank you!

[@BillHalliwell]

G'day Alex, Thank you. You've performed a valuable service for anyone thinking about taking up our hobby or getting back into modelling; as it usually happens, after a long break going back to childhood. I wish there was a video like this around when I got back into modelling about 11 years ago. The technology of injection moulding and modelling tools, aftermarket etc. has drastically changed, and generally improved scale modelling far beyond what people of my generation were comfortable with, all those years ago. Fundamentally, it is still all about detaching and cleaning up parts from the sprue tree; preparing the surfaces to be glued and then going on to assemble main parts and finishing up with smaller parts; leading to the main paint work. In between my stints as a modeller, I served in the RAAF and after that became involved in filmmaking and journalism. Being in the air force taught me a lot that would come in handy when I decided to get back to modelling. I developed a much better appreciation for representing scale while trying to build models that more accurately reflected what I knew aircraft looked like, up close and hands on. I hope you don't mind me giving a couple of 'notes' on this video. It is the first of your work I've seen and I'll be subscribing so I can better go through your earlier videos and get an appreciation of your goals as a KZbin creator. I understand you are just growing your channel at the moment so I feel I can suggest a couple of small things that, I think, will make your work more effective. I thought the slight image degradation I noticed was because of the increased video speed rate. But then I noticed it in sections that were not speeded up. I think you will need to improve your camera lenses or upgrade your camera in the near future, if you can. In close-up, your images need a higher pixel rate, overall, your images are lacking sharpness. (I was watching by using a medium size TV screen as a monitor from my new laptop.) The sharpness, of course, degrades slightly as you speed up the playback rate. Otherwise, your camera placement over the workspace and the lighting was excellent. Two small but important points that so many new KZbinrs take a while to appreciate. Back to a note or two on the modelling, if you don't mind. I only mention these small points with the best of intentions. As you intended this video for novice modellers. You didn't advise your audience that they should either gently wash their sprues in warm water with a mild, neutral detergent, or wipe down each part with isopropyl alcohol before gluing and painting. As your finished colours were a mix of Dark Sea Grey and White, I would have suggested the whole model be primed with a coat of matt light grey, as you did in small areas, here and there. I also would have suggested a clear gloss or semi-gloss over the entire main assembly prior to attaching any decals. This, as you probably know already, is a way to ensure a better 'bonding' of the decals to the model surface and panel lines etc. Likewise, I would have enforced the idea of using a good 'decal setting' solution and then a top, sealing, coat of matt or semi-gloss, depending on how you wanted to present your final model. Perhaps, a clear sealing coat prior to weathering will be the subjects of your next video on this model, so I won't 'kibitz' any further. Like I said, Alex, you've begun an important approach in a 'training' video for those who need to come up to speed with modern modelling. A topic that so many other, experienced KZbin modellers should also tackle. Apart from Harry Houdini's Models, and a couple of other KZbinrs, I can't, off hand, think of many more talented modellers, like you, that don't make some level of assumption that their audiences already know all about what's going on in a build video. So, thanks again, Alex. A job well done. It will be interesting to follow your channel's progress after I subscribe; which is my next move. Cheers, Bill H. Hobart, Tasmania.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Hi Bill, thanks for the comment and suggestions - I'm actually using a DSLR for the videos, but being able to create wide angle and zoomed shots requires a compromise (currently an 18-55mm zoom) - maybe in the future I'll have the luxury of multiple cameras to capture this better! I might also swap to my Sigma 18-250 which should give a better zoom. As for washing the sprues, this hasn't been needed for quite some time now with injection moulded plastic (resin and limited run being the exceptions), and I must admit I've only ever washed a model before construction perhaps twice in 40 years (when there's a detectable release agent - usually on older or cheaper Eastern European kits), and not had an issue yet. Of course, YMMV! I didn't prime the model at all - again, I wanted to show a beginner that you can make a decent kit without much - but I will definitely cover this in a later video. Same for the gloss coat (I always use Pledge/Future, as mentioned in my last "Intermediate Tools" video, which you'll see I mention when I revisit this kit build in an upcoming video (it'll be released in a couple of weeks after my Detailing Items and Weathering Items videos). Anyway, great to have you join the channel and thanks for the notes on your experience - very helpful 🙂

[@anthonywilson2346]

Hi just got back into the hobby- I seem to gravitate towards FAA aircraft - this harrier brings back memories of when I was on 801 nas Buccaneer mk1 on the victorious, my aircraft (as a lowly naval aircraft mechanic) was 124 had it for 18 months and left it at kia tak Singapore, memories!😊

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thanks for sharing!

[@psychodermix]

Thoroughly enjoyed this video. I'm just getting back into modelling and i really love your approach. I've learnt so much.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thanks for the comment - really helps to know that it's actually useful!

[@danielbritton8588]

Seams are a whole new ball game with "Plastic Putty." As a kid, I cared not for seams or even painting. My imagination was still afire with intrigue. My Aurora U-boat was molded in black plastic so it looked cool as is for a kid. Apparently to my Grandfather also as he kept that model atop his dresser. Living near Portland Maine, there were many ships getting hit by U-boats out in the Gulf of Maine which melded that model to memories of deep thought of enemies just off shore.

[@zeroalpha7755]

You did a really good job on that, it came up good.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thank yoU!

[@Ronno4691]

Great tip at 25:15 for filling in the gaps between the wings and the main body! I use 6mm Tamiya (masking) tape myself. Also, for a 1:72 scale model, this kit is pretty big. I like the simplicity of the parts to this kit like the fully molded landing gear etc. Another great build video for this Tamiya Sea Harrier!

[@onixfieroandscalemodelworks]

I really enjoyed this tutorial. Im primarily a car and scifi modeller but a lot of what you describe can be used on many different genres of our hobby. I know how hard t It is to make your first 1k, as i recently just hit that milestone. Im going to sub. Looking forward to more of your videos.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Glad it was helpful! Welcome to the channel :-)

[@johnmoran8805]

Thanks Alex, great tutorial. Currently mentoring a youngin on our hobby, he's got 2 under his belt. Figured a jet should be next, and this vid gave me a good direction. Thank you!

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thanks, let us see the results!

[@peterkkpoon6546]

This is a good video record of the building of a beautiful jet fighter plane.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thanks - I'll be returning to this very build in an upcoming video in a couple of weeks, showing how you can improve on the basic build with some of the items I've mentioned in the past few "Top 10" videos.

[@peterkkpoon6546]

Eagerly waiting for your new vlog.

[@judygarnhum2992]

Beautiful instructions! Hello from Judy in Nova Scotia, Canada

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thanks and welcome Judy!

[@Viper.Maverick]

How do you make those lines so neat after masking? When I mask (tamya masking tape) and paint (away from the masking tape) some of the colour always goes under the masking tape

[@lesthiele4921]

That was a excellent build sir, one of the worlds great iconic aircraft you have yourself an o ther subscriber.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thank you - I'll be coming back to it next week for a revisit :-)

[@julianmhall]

Ref marking the instructions. May I suggest (you probably already do Alex) crossing out parts / stages that are not relevant to you? For example cross out an aircraft's undercarriage assembly if your model will be flying.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Yep, that's a good piece of advice, and something you can see me do on the Sea King build

[@PeterDonovan-l4d]

hi all I am a quite experienced modller after getting back into iy after retirement some years ago. like your video very detailed, I bought this kit because a lot of modellers stated it was rubbish. I totally disagree for a cost of only £13 it was an old mould but when gows together great. A question The kit states that you add yhe under wing decals before attaching the arnament tools. As like to prime and airbrush my aircraft models with the wings and tailplane glued on . Did you cut the roundal deals on the under wings under the 2 missile launchers Is this how you made a good job of your finish Please comment

[@MannsModelMoments]

I absolutely did. Of course it's possible to wait to put the pylons on after, but in practice it's just something I'd never do

[@PeterDonovan-l4d]

I agree just put them on after priming the model

[@notmokiplamo]

Fantastic work on the harrier, may I ask what sort of camera did you use to record your build footage?

[@MannsModelMoments]

I'm using a Pentax K70 DSLR - at the time I think I was using the stock 18-55mm with some shots with a Sigma zoom, but now I'm using a Pentax 18-150 lens as it offers me a wide range of possible shots with good clarity.

[@southpaw5483]

Thank you for sharing; Did you prime any of the model parts before painting?

[@MannsModelMoments]

In this case, no, but generally I do. As a "first" kit build, I wouldn't expect anyone to have primer to see if this was a hobby they wanted to get into.

[@southpaw5483]

@@MannsModelMoments Understood, thank you.

[@julianmhall]

Re audio notifications. I mainly use a PC for You Tube and even of your browser is open, if you're not on You Tube (or on another tab) when the Notification comes up you don't get anything. Even on a mobile phone, if you have the You Tube app unless it's open you don't get Notifications.

[@Maxtherocketguy]

What u use for filling gaps

[@MannsModelMoments]

I use sprue-goo, you can make it easily yourself as shown in this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/fnezp52cepaNia8

[@huwtindall7096]

Bloody good job on this old kit! The engine cover game me no end of grief. Fit was horrible and required lots of putty but still looked average after!

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thanks! The "removable" engine cover is a real trap for a beginner modeller, so cementing it shit is the best option, and filling/sanding it is always going to be necessary, but it's something every modeller needs to learn how to do...

[@rikbryan9709]

Just subbed bud. Great vid.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Thanks for the sub!

[@petergengePTRproductions]

With the Tamiya spray did you use a primer? I’m using the Tamiya white x2 spray and struggling to get it to adhere to the model. I haven’t used primer but didn’t see you use one in the video.

[@MannsModelMoments]

No, I didn't. Tamiya sprays (or any sprays, really) should adhere directly - the most likely cause if they don't is oils - try giving the model plastic a wipe down with tissue damped with isopopanol or ethanol to remove any before spraying, make sure the can is well shaken and that both the model and can are at a decent room temperature (about 20 degrees centigrade or above)

[@TheFilimonD]

How come you don't prime the model before painting?

[@MannsModelMoments]

Not really needed when using spray cans...

[@SimonWallwork]

I just built this kit, and about the only reason I'd choose it for a beginners first kit is because it is dreadful & it's no loss if you make a mess of it....

[@MannsModelMoments]

So I'll be addressing some of the kits shortfalls when I return to it in a future video, but for a first-time build you need to not have a "modellers" view regarding accuracy, detail etc. If you've never built a kit before, this goes together fine, but has a few areas where a fresh modeller can learn some basics that will serve them throughout their hobby journey. A "perfect" kit would teach a new modeller nothing, a very difficult kit may put someone off. This is affordable, fits reasonably well, has decent decals and a simple paint scheme.

[@SimonWallwork]

@@MannsModelMoments Fair enough. I'd have picked something tot too great, but not as pitiful as the Harrier. I had to do masses on mine, and it still hasn't got any of the 'blow in doors' around the intakes- like yours! Anyway, good luck with your channel.😀

[@MannsModelMoments]

@@SimonWallwork Thanks!

[@sabrekai8706]

Got a question about sprue goo. I made up some with Tamiya extra thin and regular sprues from a Tamiya kit. Started using it on an old Hobbycraft CF-100. After it hardened and was sanded flush, dozens of bubbles appeared and had to be filled with regular putty. Is this normal? Or did I mix it up wrong or to the wrong consistancy?

[@MannsModelMoments]

Definitely not normal. How long did you leave between mixing and use?

[@sabrekai8706]

@@MannsModelMoments the sprue bits went in about 11pm and I used the next afternoon.. It had completely disolved, and was of well mixed consistancy

[@MannsModelMoments]

I do usually leave it a little longer - a day to sit initially and then stir, then another day, stir again and adjust consistency (more sprue, more glue depending) then repeat. I've not used pure TET as a basis for spruegoo but that shouldn't be a problem...Maybe I'll have a look into this in further detail with different manufacturers plastics and solvents to see what's ideal and if there are any to be avoided. In the meantime, do you have any Airfix sprues to try? I used these for my last batch and they worked brilliantly.

[@sabrekai8706]

@@MannsModelMoments No airfix sprues but I tossed the old batch and made up new. letting it sit longer and stirring well. Made up a test join last night,,I'll give it another go this evening.

[@MannsModelMoments]

Acetone might be the issue, since TET is 50% acetone, which might be a bit high for sprue goo and be causing the bubble issue...

[@markbaigent8373]

Subbed

[@MannsModelMoments]

Much appreciated, thanks :-)

[@racheladkins6060]

I’m having problems subscribing. It says “error in subscribing”?

[@MannsModelMoments]

Try logging out of your account and then back in, if that doesn't work try unsubscribing and subscribing

[@sneakyfildy]

Just finished building Hasegawa Harrier 1/72 I've started a year ago 😅 Jesus Christ what a mistake it was to buy a super cheap crappy model "to improve skills". Practice shows that before "improving" you gotta get those skills first and doing it with a shitty model is a pain!

[@joseaugusto-vd9vg]

I prefer the Falkland paint

[@MannsModelMoments]

Unfortunately there are no Falklands conflict decals in the Tamiya kit, though it would be possible to modify or buy different decal to go down this route, this wasn't the purpose of this video...maybe in the future I'll do another kit...maybe a GR3...

[@joseaugusto-vd9vg]

This kit is very old!🙂i think is from the 80'!

[@MannsModelMoments]

@@joseaugusto-vd9vg Correct - but it is cheap, readily available and goes together easily for a beginner. If I were to do a Falklands GR3 I'd look to a more modern and accurate kti

[@joseaugusto-vd9vg]

I like the kit is very simple .dont have the fotoedg 🙂

[@joseaugusto-vd9vg]

Airfix dont Make a harrier in the 80's?

[@julianmhall]

The only thing I /really don't like/ in this model is the roundel decals are two part, so registration will be a real pain for a newbie. For that reason alone I wouldn't recommend this as a first model.

[@xxamandaxx5646]

Lego. Airfix total and utter crap

[@MannsModelMoments]

I'm sorry I'm not following you at all!

[@xxamandaxx5646]

@@MannsModelMoments am slightly insane. But your system does not allow our phones. Tried 10 times. Practise what you preach

[@MannsModelMoments]

@@xxamandaxx5646 What??

[@michaelgrey7854]

Why would you suggest such a horrible representation of a Harrier as this kit is??

[@MannsModelMoments]

@@michaelgrey7854 Because it's affordable and you a decent size, with manageable issues for a beginner. Accuracy might be important to you as an experienced modeller, but think back to your first kit, was accuracy the primary thing in your mind?