New welder in the shop: ESAB Rogue 200

[@kundetjenesten]

I have had the 180 Pro for years now and absolutely love it! Reliable and precise. I could probably have made do with the 150, but the pricepoint wasn't much different when I bought it.

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

I owned the 180 as well, I ended up selling it to get my dynasty. Realizing how I was kind of dumb for not having a portable welder, I ended up buying the rogue 200 lol. They are definitely rugged/work well. I recommend the r180 to people all the time because of how well they work and how useful they are.

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

I owned the 180 as well, I ended up selling it to get my dynasty. Realizing how I was kind of dumb for not having a portable welder, I ended up buying the rogue 200 lol. They are definitely rugged/work well. I recommend the r180 to people all the time because of how well they work and how useful they are.

[@GuestInvitado-gd3bi]

Nice welder you got there. I'm in the market for buying the amptrol TIG torch for my FORNEY 220 ST Pro, but there are no reviews on this torch. This is the first video that actually shows a hands on demo with this type of torch. It looks solid and robust. I enjoyed watching. Thanks a bunch.👍👍

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

The torch is definitely built strong. I have used it off camera quite a bit and I think it works well for its intended purpose. It’s more cumbersome than a super flex torch, but a super flex is really designed for bench work and not in field repairs. Kind of like millers stock tig torches aren’t very flexible but are very durable. The adjustment works well and honestly works better than I expected. I still prefer a footpedal but I can’t count how many jobs I have done that using a foot pedal was a major pain. Definitely a setup worth having for repair work.

[@GuestInvitado-gd3bi]

Thanks a lot, I appreciate that.👍@@makingmistakeswithgreg

[@mkearn724]

Nice machine, I remember when you made that post and I talked myself out of jumping on it. For the price point and it has high frequency makes it a damn steal

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

I really wanted a miller 161 sth but man they are expensive (2900$ with torch setup ready to go new). Finding high frequency tig start and 6010 capability with a small form factor machine under 1800$ is almost impossible. In many respects the esab is better than the miller (more amperage, better settings control) and for 1k it seems to be really good. I think they were sitting on a ton of them and nobody bought them at the 2k original price. If they better advertised it I think they would have sold. My main use for it is for mobile repair off my generator (whole video series on that coming out soon). My dynasty is too expensive and too heavy for that type of work. I think it will work good. And a lot of people could use a setup like it so I figured the content is relatable 😀

[@jake-mv5oi]

You just sold me a welder. Can't wait to get back into stick and learn tig.

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

If you're picking up the rogue 200 its a very solid tig machine. Dont buy esabs pedal, buy the SCC or SSC (cant remember which it is lol) off amazon for esab if you want a pedal, it will save you a bunch and its 100% the same pedal since they slap a sticker on it for esab. Being that the machine has HF start and 200 amps to work with, it will get a ton of tig jobs done. It also is a exceptional stick welder, easily running 6010. I am a huge fan of smaller form factor welders that can do a lot, which is why I like the rogue 200 so much. I do a lot of mobile work and work on a generator, it is so much better than many other options out there. The fact you can weld with a 6010 1/8th on 120v power is amazing. You wont be disappointed. The only thing I dont like is how heavy/big the tig torch is, but it was designed for field repair work and not bench work, so in that respect its awesome.

[@DG-fn7qg]

Was looking for a secondary smaller welding machine. Ordered mine today. You make a great salesman! 😉

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

I have been using mine at a shop for a couple months now, it’s been doing great 😀. The only real downside is the tig torch is big/bulky but I have gotten used to it. You won’t regret it 😀

[@marshmallowgamer2904]

thanks to videos like these im pretty sure this will be my next welder, thank you for your video

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

You won’t regret it, I have been using mine quite a lot in the last 3-4 months and it’s honestly one of my favorite welders. It flat out welds excellent, and its size is perfect for carrying around. I also found out it shuts the output power off when the rod sticks, which is really nice to prevent burned up rods when you are learning. I will be doing a update video on it soon 😀

[@bryanp3973]

I just grabbed a titanium stick 225 friday and do enjoy it. I saw someone selling the 161 used for $750 and was gone before was able to grab it. Guy only used it 2x 😫 but after more videos and practicing, I’m sure I’ll be buying a nice Tig/Mig or whatever you suggest. Thanks for all the great information 👍🏼

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

You won’t regret the 225, with some practice you will be building a ton of stuff. That 161 is a awesome welder, it’s my favorite honestly (especially the 161sth). I just wish it was cheaper. It’s hard to justify the 2900$ with rebate price for the 161sth setup when esab will sell me the rogue 200 for 1k. It is a bit bigger and heavier, and the tig torch is a bit bulkier, but with just a different torch all of the rest doesn’t matter lol.

[@bryanp3973]

@@makingmistakeswithgreg yeah i’m already planning to have fun with the dumpster of metal I have 😂 but will definitely keep and eye out for the miller if good deal pops up, think would enjoy that one better with all the features. Thanks again 👍🏼

[@Cptnbond]

Regarding the stepwise current with the ESAB 205AC/DC welder pedal, there may be a software upgrade. However, if so, this is only available for authorized ESAB service partners. I have no idea if there is a fix, but maybe other machine users can comment about the issue. Cheers.

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

I wish I would have looked into a possibility of a software update before I sold it. It was a excellent welder overall I just didn’t like the lack of smoothness to the arc. I saw in other review videos that you could hear the clicks it made too, so I know they had the same thing going on. No doubt the rogue 200 has a far smoother tig arc.

[@aligooya8514]

A very informative video, thanks. I need to fabricate some iron fencing for my garden (about 8 meters). I am a DIYer, have some tig experience and have no fancy workshop, only a garage. I am torn between mig and tig welder, as the former is easier but perhaps emanates lots of fumes and splatter that may burn surrounding items, whereas tig will make almost no splatter. Could you please help me choose?

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

That’s a really good question. I have done a lot of work like that so I have some tips that should help you. Tig definitely makes clean welds, and has no cleanup. The major downside on a job like you’re describing is the material needs to be very clean, and tig very slow. The main advantage of Mig is it’s significantly faster. It does handle contaminates better (especially with flux core wire). It’s also better for auto body. I spent the first 4 years (of owning my own welder)with just a tig welder. I did literally everything with tig or stick. You wouldn’t be at much of a disadvantage with just a tig setup provided the material could be cleaned and the speed of making things isn’t a concern. It might sound like a crazy idea, but picking up something like the rogue 200, and a sub 150$ flux core welder like harbor freights titanium 125 would be a great way to go. The titanium 125 can weld thin stuff to up to 3/16th, and can do so outdoors. A tig stick combo can’t weld thin material outdoors (if that was a concern). You would have the capability of welding anything from paper thin to unlimited thickness with that setup (no aluminum though). On a more affordable option everlasts 161sth is a great option, it does tig & stick up to 160amps. I really think if I were you I would do the tig/stick combo and a little flux core welder. Especially if you have some experience with tig.

[@aligooya8514]

@@makingmistakeswithgreg many thanks sir. You are a star and got yourself a subscriber🙏

[@TheDom0]

HI Greg... Brilliant channel, any tips on stick welding galvanised materiel? I get a job in every now and then replacing tail gate safety railings on trucks, And the floor of the tail gate is galvanised chequer plate and covered in crap. The first time I did this job I tried MIG and it was a mess, obviously I try and get the base material as clean as possible. We don't tend to do these jobs that often so the second time I thought, why not have a go stick welding it... the results where far better. Does stick welding usually help you out if your stuck with dirty material? I'm primarily a TIG welder but if there is any down time in the shop our employer doesn't mind us getting the old oil cooled stick welder out to practice, as there are times when we do have to stick weld Stainless off site.

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

Great question and I have a bunch of thoughts to help you. With anything filthy your go to options should be stick and flux core wire (Gasless). Stick can make solid welds on poor material, specifically 6010,6011,6013 rods. 6010 has more penetration than 6011, but that could be a downside if the material is thin. 6013 has less penetration and better for thinner material. I personally find 6011 as a solid option on what you’re talking about, mostly because it has a less aggressive arc than 6010 (both red and grey rods) and it’s far less likely to have slag inclusions than 6013. Technically 7018 will weld just fine on poor material too, the problem with it is it’s puddle is very liquidy which will make it hard to fill holes in if you blow any. For flux core wire it’s a huge benefit on thinner material. Coming from me (so you know it’s based on real world experience lol) if it’s thin material use flux core wire (self shielded). Under 1/16th and flux core wire is so much easier that stick, especially in odd positions/uphill/tight spots. Flux core wire such as Lincoln nr211, Hobart fabshield 21b, or other -t11 wire (not -gs wire) is often specifically designed to weld through galvanizing. On a final note make sure to wear a respirator when welding that 💩, if you get a couple good breaths of it you’ll get zinc fume fever 🥵. If you prep the material to make the weld happy prep your lungs with some protection so they are happy too lol.

[@TheDom0]

@@makingmistakeswithgreg Thanks very much for the reply Greg... They only tend to buy 6013 & 7018 rods here at work, so next time that job comes in I will give it a go. On a side note do 8018 (esab) rods weld the same as a 7018?

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

@@TheDom0 so 8018 should weld similar to a 7018, maybe a slightly more digging arc. They cost a bunch more (and I don’t weld on too much that would need it outside of tig repairs) so it’s been a while since I ran one 😀

[@Mark008able]

When cleaning a galvanized area of the metal for welding and particularly if sandblasting, is crucial to dwell a bit longer than you would normally with milk scale or paint on plain carbon. The reason is that most believe they have cleaned the galvanizing once a dull finish appears and it's important to point this out to a helper/apprentice as most times they just didn't know. Failing to do this and you'll get the notable blue flame and wonderfully white fluffy stuff to breath in lol. In summary, grind deeper than expected and blast longer. 👍

[@jokarpo6723]

New to the channel what’s up Greg I was torn between 161 and this thanks for the video

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

Welcome 😀. So I owned the 161 sth, the 180 rogue, and now the 200 rogue (sold the previous two). The 161 sth is my favorite welder I have ever owned, it’s portability and capability can’t be beat. However it’s price (new) is very high at 2900 for the sth setup after rebate, and that’s without a 300$ foot pedal. If you take away price these are the differences: The 161 good: it is smaller, lighter, has gas through dinse (no separate gas connection which makes swapping the torch off easier) has a lower tig start and lower amperage capability (5amp minimum and probably 5-8amp start), more flexible stock torch (fixed neck though) and its 6010/7018 mode is very easy to use (separate saves settings for both). 161sth bad: only 161 amps compared to 180 or 200, harder to run a aftermarket torch because it uses smaller dinse connector with pass through gas (it can be done), the big plastic case is very bulky for what fits in it, hot start is only on or off (works great but you don’t have settings to adjust), not a huge fan of the carry strap only vs strap/handle, and of course the price (very difficult to find a used sth). Esab 200 good: the carry handle and rugged design makes it easy to move around, adjustable hot start, pre and post flow is adjustable for gas, standard large dinse connectors so more torches work, longer power cable, flex head tig torch with rotary amp control stock, higher IP rating (I believe). Esab 200 bad: the tig torch is stuff out of the box and heavy (not ideal), if any control is hooked to the control port it overrides the main dial (you have to unhook a foot pedal to stick weld or the pedal controls the stick output), it’s heavier/bigger than the miller, it’s arc starter is around 15-18amp snap (works fine just not as low as miller) and it’s low end is 10amps vs 5 with the miller. Honestly they are both solid units. For the 1k the rogue 200s we’re selling for, take the 1k, plus about 5-600 for a foot pedal and super flex torch (plus a few other accessories) and your well under 1800$ out the door for a perfectly capable setup. I wouldn’t pay 1k more to go to the miller in that situation. If the rogue 200 was still the 2k price it normally is I would buy the miller.

[@jokarpo6723]

@@makingmistakeswithgreg thanks for your opinion and letting me know where they both stand. I’m a big miller guy anything I ever bought blue never had a problem. There’s a northern tool that just opened down the street from me so today on break I’m like fuck it I’ll see what they have and I was suprised they had a Lincoln eagle 10000, Hobart champion elite 225, and that new esab ruffian 150 portable. They had a ton of hobart welders a buzzbox and then I saw the esabs. They had every kind of esab I was super suprised (in a good way) I got my 6g certificate tig in stick out and I used an esab. I’m not sure if there Swedish or what but man let me tell you I was stuck being an only blue guy until I used that esab rebel. For me and my 2 cents if you take the frame off a ranger and off a bobcat and compare the 2 they are made completely different. From the cables, to the hardware, there’s just nothing like miller. Miller is so good that you wont see them at northern tool. There the top dogs in the welding world but after seeing this video man I’ll save some money and go with esab! Thanks again man I can’t thank you enough for the feedback. I’ll definitely subscribe to your channel ✌️

[@jokarpo6723]

Hey man btw I forgot to ask what kind of generator you using to weld with? I’m shopping for one now and am open to suggestions

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

@@jokarpo6723 so here is the deal with generators. I will have a video coming out soon on generators and running welders on them. I actually already have most of it done I just want to get through the backlog of stuff I have first. In the mean time this should help: I run a harbor freight predator inverter generator (9500). It produces pure sine wave output and modern inverter welders can safely run on it. Many new welders out there will run poorly on a generator (and have reduced lifespan) unless it has pure sine wave/low THD clean power output. In very simple terms, if you want to use a non clean output generator, you should stick with a transformer based welder. Wattage is also very important, welders eat a ton of power. To get a true 200amp output out of say a wire welder, it will take around 7500 running watts of generator power. That is a lot no doubt. The most cost effective way to be able to weld thicker material off a generator is to use a stick welder. At 120amps welder output you can safely (aka proper penetration) weld 1/4in + material. You can’t achieve that using a Mig welder with the same input power. Some welders are more efficient than others as well. I will be doing a efficiency test of the 200amp esab rogue while run on a generator to see how efficient it is. I know the miller 161sth broke 67 or 68% efficient from what I remember (I didn’t film it), which is very good considering most welders are in the mid to low 50s. In simple terms inefficient welders may pull 7k watts to output 3700 watts, which is pretty wasteful. Realistically you should try to get the biggest generator you can afford and preferably a inverter.

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

@@jokarpo6723 I am a huge miller too fan no doubt. Miller and fronius (from what I have seen) are top for capability across the board. However after having owned a ton of Esabs, Lincoln’s, and all sorts of other brands I can say I really believe in Esab. Their rebel and rogue series are awesome, and have proven to hold up. They aren’t as well engineered electrically speaking as miller and especially fronius (they use much simpler designs) but they seem to hold up so that’s not a negative really. There is a great video out there were a KZbinr (bigtb1717) showed the inside of the esab rogue 180 vs the fronius 180 and it’s pretty crazy how different the two were constructed. I also really like that esab focuses on rugged easy to carry designs that will run 6010 rods perfect. They seem to focus on guys like me, that repair stuff in all sorts of environments. Simple things like how the rebel series has a LED light inside the machine that turns on when you open the side is clear evidence that they are thinking about guys that work outside of a well lit shop. I have no doubt the rogue 200 I bought will get used a ton, any in field video I produce (outside of aluminum repair) in the future will be with it.

[@derekbryant6137]

The esab Rogue 200 I TIG torch was designed for industrial heavy duty stuff like pipe structural not intended for really the home hobbyist that's an industrial machine right there great video though hit the Subscribe button I did

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

Yes, that tig torch would survive a very long time in a harsh environment 😀

[@thegarbagegladiators4735]

Thanks for the video, Sensei. 🙇

[@macc7620]

Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge Sir, best videos to learn on how to weld, very explicit and fun. Can you please share your thoughts on the titanium unlimited 200?

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

So a friend of mine has the titanium 200. It mig welds good and tigs decent. Stick wise it runs 7018 fine, 6011 pretty decent, but it won’t run 6010. If you’re looking for a setup for primarily solid mig and some stick, I think it fits the bill. The main limitation to the setup is the tig has a manual gas valve on the torch (no solenoid) and it functions with lift arc from what I remember. It doesn’t have a foot pedal either so you would need to buy that separate if it’s available (my friends doesn’t have a pedal). The machine is leaps better for capability than say a 140amp common mig machine like a Lincoln or Hobart when it comes to output and control with settings.

[@macc7620]

Well appreciate!

[@lukewendler2109]

Looks like a great little machine, can you tell me what the make/model of the compact torch you use with the welder. The torch that comes with it looks like it would be a bit bulky on the auto body work I would be using the welder for.

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

I generally use a #17 CK worldwide tig torch for all my machines. It is significantly more flexible and smaller than the stock torch. The stock torch is a great option for in field repairs or where a foot pedal can’t be used. For any kind of bench work it’s undesireable for sure lol. The torch will need to have a standard gas hookup, and the adapter the machine came with could be used to hook it up.

[@dalehess6265]

is that a 6010 box opener.

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

Haha great eye, it was a welding rod. It was either a grey 5/32 6010 or a 1/8th 7018.

[@rackyramirez548]

Nice good

[@summerforever6736]

Nice machine sir how is it holding up?

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

I have burned probably 50lbs of rods through it and it’s been great. No complaints in buying it. I will be comparing it to the new Lincoln 180 sprinter that is out in a future video.

[@summerforever6736]

glad to hear @@makingmistakeswithgreg

[@stuartjohnson8171]

If a beginner welder with no experience or a project list is willing to spend the time and dollars which is better to lean initially TIG or MIG.

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

Great question. I guess it really depends. Tig welding has a steep learning curve, but after that it’s not bad. You can weld pretty much anything with it and the welds are very clean. Let’s look at some pluses and minuses: Let’s look at the pluses and minuses: Tig The main downsides to tig are the following: steep learning curve, very slow to deposit metal (takes a long time to make welds on thicker metal), machines cost a lot, low tolerance for any contaminates (rust, milscale, etc), and it can be difficult to make welds in hard to reach places. The main benefits are: cleanest welds, one bottle of argon and you can literally weld anything (aluminum included if your machine has AC), ultimate control (make the welds the exact size you want), you can weld unlimited thickness material, thin material is far easier to weld than other processes, far easier to switch welding between materials (no spool to change). MiG welding cons: most 200 amp home machines can’t safely weld above 1/4in material with proper penetration with hardwire, you need multiple gas bottles to be able to weld aluminum/stainless/and steel which ads to cost, you need to purchase expensive spools of wire bigger than you may need for a project, you need a spool gun (that costs a lot) to weld aluminum, it actually takes more time to master all aspects of wire welding (MiG, flux core, spray arc, aluminum, stainless) than tig. MiG welding benefits: ideal for thin material (spot welds), much faster than tig across the board, initial learning curve is far easier, machines are far cheaper to get into at the start, much easier to weld hard to reach places, more resistance to contaminates, etc. It’s also worth noting that a tig machine can also stick weld, and being able to stick weld will negate most of the downsides to tig (slow to put down metal, difficult to weld hard to reach places, inability to weld through contaminates, etc). Mig welders can also weld with flux core wire which will help out with poor penetration on thicker material, is far easier to weld uphill vs hardwire, and it will really help with welding on poor material. With all that said, I personally became good at tig first, and I don’t regret it one bit. When I went to stick and mig later it was far easier because many of the principals were the same as tig. If all your dreams are is to weld trailers or fix stuff like that a mig welder is fine. If you dream about welding custom parts on cars/motorcycles, or repairing anything that might come your way, tig is the way to go. You can always switch processes as you see fit. Once you can learn to weld a straight bead and stack them on one another with any process it will carry over to other processes. I will actually do a video on this and have it out soon, it should help you further 😀

[@G5Hohn]

I think learning stick first makes a lot of sense. Most of the skills will help to learn TIG. I also prefer the reliability of stick and TIG machines which have no moving parts really. MIG seems like it gives up penetration (reliability of weld) and reliability of machine to gain speed and ease of use.

[@ciptaseni]

saya punya juga hanya masih bingung menggunakannya.

[@tonyreyes33]

What hood do you use?

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

Lincoln Viking 3350 mostly. I also have a Lincoln 4c face mask, multiple fixed shades, and a miller digital elite. If I had to pick one the Lincoln 3350 is my favorite 😀.

[@tigxxl]

😄

[@lv2keepfit493]

How are you liking the R200 so far?

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

I really like it. I have done a bunch of stick jobs with it and some tig work. I will do a update review in the future, but for now here is what I like-don’t like: Like: super small and portable. The quality of everything is good. The fan on demand (it’s so nice to not have to listen to a jet engine all the time). Using it is easy and straight forward. The stick arc is excellent, it welds exactly the way I want it to, and the amperage seems dead on. The power cord is really long which is very nice for portable jobs. It’s very electrically efficient (I will test it in a future video) so I get a lot of power output for the current draw (very important on a generator or on 120). Don’t like: the tig torch is still overly heavy and big. This isn’t a huge negative because it does have a rotary amp dial on it which is useful. The sheath still isn’t broken in so I am sure it will get a little less stiff. It is a good torch for portable repair because I assure you it will last far longer than a CK super flex torch if you pull it over stuff/step on the cord. I was a little bit disappointed that the menu doesn’t appear to save settings. So basically the rogue 180 has a 7018 and 6010 mode, and each one you could dial in specific arc force and hot start settings. I believe it would save them when you shut off the machine (I could be wrong). Regardless the rogue 200 doesn’t have separate 6010-7018 modes that just require 1 button push to switch, you have to hit the left function button and quick go through a menu to turn on cellulose mode and adjust hot start/arc force to what you want. Those settings are not saved so every time you turn it on you must adjust what you want. Beyond that there really isn’t anything I have found I don’t like. The tig HF arc starter is a bit hot, but it’s reliable and I didn’t expect it to be as good as my dynasty anyway. There are really only 2 other competing machines out there to the rogue 200, the fronius trans pocket 180 tig and the miller maxstar 161sth. Both cost over double. Having owned the miller I did like it more (it saves settings, and has a stick stuck feature which was nice) but it’s probably 1400$ more expensive. No way is it worth that much over the esab. The only real point it comes out ahead is super low amp tig control, so if you’re welding paper thin stainless I probably would want the miller since it goes down to a legit 5 amps and has a softer arc start. It’s the same deal with the fronius I believe based on specs and price. Compared to most other stick welders out there (especially all in one welders) the rogue 200 blows them out of the water. Most of millers welders won’t even run 6010 anymore. If portability wasn’t a concern a used miller cst 280 would be my preferred stick welder for shop use, but it’s big, heavy, and can’t tig as well as the rogue. I really think the rogue 200 a perfect setup for home use and field repair work. Esab should have marketed it better (the 2k price probably didn’t help) and they would have sold more. It’s stil 1050 at cyberweld which is a deal. Edit: it’s somewhat petty to say (lol) but I wished the rogue 200 had the rogue 180s info sticker on the top. The 200 has a bunch of tig info which is mostly irrelevant. The 180 had a rod and amp chart which was really handy, far more useful than what’s on the 200.

[@lv2keepfit493]

Thanks for the reply, great information! Same welder in Canada is $1900.00 on sale . Crazy I know but Red and Blue are double that. I'm tempted to go for it, seems like a nice welder but to be honest there's not a ton of personal reviews on Rouge welders (you being the exception). I just don't want to be disappointed ugh... @@makingmistakeswithgreg It'll only be used for hobby welding and the rare side job, mostly stick welding but I do want to learn Tig and this seems to be more than enough for a solid learning curve. I do realize it's not AC HF (so no aluminum welding) but that's alright for now. Thanks again for all the information, much appreciated.

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

@@lv2keepfit493 the main benefit to the rogue 200 is it has high frequency start tig and a gas solenoid. If you have any ambition on even learning tig, HF start is the way to go. It makes things easier/far less frustrating. Not to mention the 200 has a built in gas solenoid so you don’t have to open/close a torch valve every time you want to weld. Those two things are worth while features over the rogue 180 if you are going to do tig. The 180 will tig weld with the same control as the 200, you just need a torch with a gas valve and you touch the tungsten and lift it to start the arc. I wonder if cyberweld (website here in the states) would sell to you in Canada? They are at 1050$ on the 200 right now. Even if you had to cut the plug off and put a new one on (not sure if you guys have different plugs or voltage) it would be worth it. For 1050 it’s 100% worth it. Even at 2k it’s still cheaper than the fronius 180 and miller 161sth, just much less of a deal. The biggest problem you will find is a vast majority of modern stick welders out there don’t run 6010/6011 well (the rogue does), and many aren’t as portable as the rogue series. It’s a tough call but I am sure you will figure it out 😀 Edit: bakers gas here in the states ships to Canada and they are selling it for 1400 and you get a 200$ gift card with purchase.

[@lv2keepfit493]

I caved and bought it, looks like a very good unit after comparing it to other makes and price. I should have it within a few days... looking forward to it. I'll be stick welding for now until I buy a bottle of 75/25 argon. Appreciate all the feedback, you were a big help.

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

@@lv2keepfit493 you won’t be disappointed. The build quality is really good and you can tell it was made to be used. I was just looking at mine today and it’s funny how little details didn’t go overlooked on it, like the main amp knob appears to have a set screw on it so it doesn’t pop off (not even my dynasty has that). Long power cords, solid buttons you can press with gloves on, simple menus, and the fact the handle is rigid which makes it easy to carry. I don’t honestly know why esab is the only company making rugged welders with designs like theirs. Not even gimmicky stuff either, but useful stuff (like a internal led light on a MiG machine, and higher resistance to water/moisture). They are expensive, and the rogue is somewhat of a niche product, but it’s 100% worth it. Down the road if you decide to buy a foot pedal don’t buy the esab one, but SSC controls pedal for half the money (they make the pedal for esab). Also, if you plan on tig welding with it make sure to get 100% argon gas. If you have any questions on the setup or settings let me know and I will help you out 😃.

[@NesoNesovic]

can this device use cellulosic electrodes

[@makingmistakeswithgreg]

It runs 6010-6011 no problem 😀👍

[@rackyramirez548]

Done to subscribe your channel idol❤