Makita LS0815F + Bosch CM8S Review, Comparison, Accuracy Test

Comparing the Bosch CM8S and Makita LS0815F compound sliding miter saws.

[@richardschiller4888]

Viewers should be aware that when the video says "kind of cheaper metal slides are really rough", that the Makita was fitted with linear ball bearings, the best, most durable slide bearings you can get. As you slide them, you can feel the balls recirculating. Few sliding mechanisms use these because of price. The narrator's comment that they are cheap is odd in this context. Compared to more common slide bearings, the recirculating ball type can stay accurate for much longer, while remaining easy to move. Of course, this example may have had a fault, but it would have been nice to hear the narrator speak to their quality, their cost, and whether they were just sensing the normal feeling you would expect or something else.

[@Gungho1a]

He does say that the makita was much sturdier when sliding, and the play in the makita was less than the bosch.

[@jhtpunk]

thank you for such an in depth review, it really helped a lot

[@Gold-oj8do]

I have the Bosch and really like it.

[@heydoyourhomework]

I just bought (Aug 2022) the Bosch CM8S. Out of the box, the table is dead flat and the fences are perfectly aligned. The fences are also a perfect 90 degrees. The VERY high build quality of the Bosch noted in this video and the "plastic-ness" of the Makita noted here and by others makes, IMHO, the decision between them a no brainer. Bosch clearly listened and did something whilst Makita seemingly did not. I can't stress enough how stunning the Bosch build quality is. Nothing was out of alignment or in need of engineering,

[@kiwigrunt330]

I recently bought the simple version of this saw, the GCM 800 SJ. I'm trying very hard to like it, but it may be going back. I find that it does not cut straight or smooth, and every cut is different. The blade seems to vibrate its way through the timber because there is too much flex in the aluminum body between the motor and the pivot point. Bosch tried a bit too hard to keep the weight of these saws down. My 15 year old simple little DeWalt (Elu) does not have this problem.

[@Gungho1a]

December '22, and I can say the same thing in relation to the makita LS0815 I recently bought. I wasn't keen on the plastic indicators, and the mitre angular ruler is simply a glued on strip, which I found to be a real disappointment. The unit cuts true though, straight from the box. To some extent, 'cheap' aspects are the curse of anyone buying for DIY at the lower end of the market...we can't justify the high end or expensive gear, but the less expensive or 'lighter' tools tend to have some questionable components. I guess it comes down to taking as good a care of our gear as much as possible to minimise the potential for damage or accidents.

[@GhettoKhaydarin]

This is a great review, thank you. I'm sure you know this but if you want perfect cuts you just need a shooting board and a shooting plane. You can dial those in perfectly and they are much better than doing a scary cross cut on a table saw with giant pieces of 2x4

[@rodmackinnon8497]

Great review . . . yes doing a picture frame, the angles have to be perfect, the imperfection adds up quickly.

[@michaela3330]

Great video till this time! Thanks! Any conclusions/recommendations after all those years? 😄 I’m about to buy one of these for DiY works..

[@dereklathe3230]

The Bosch is junk. I have both.. And the Bosch has gotten even worse with time. The bearings in the glide/slide rails are trash, it’s not accurate when cutting and the trigger went out! Makita still rocking and cutting straight

[@theeastbaycraftsman7206]

I have the Bosch 10” glide, same issue with the fence. Other than that it’s pretty damn good. …… but yes the fence issue is a pain

[@TheKedyan]

Awesome review, really! Thanks a lot, man. 👍

[@originalbitman]

Thank you. This is great information very nicely presented.

[@judithrob1591]

Tips. Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / HITACHI C12RSH2 / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). If you want you can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick. To this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw. Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade. Step-5. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Level Box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing. Conclusion: how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing, you better not go for that. (the choices are yours). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...

[@euroovca25]

i got the makita, im happy :)

[@peterpalffy9302]

I have found the same, out of the package the chinese produced Makita is clearly much less fit and finish than anything from Japan. As a contractor, we never had much good luck with anything Bosch.

[@malinhellsten4406]

Thanks for the review. I Wonder if you have tryed the makita cutting baseboard (dont know if this is the correct Word?)? Im afraid that the cutting depth is to short for this (69mm) and instead I have to tilt the machine for cornercuts?

[@cpayne1123]

+Simon Hellsten Are you thinking of crown moulding? It is bit of a problem for that, but you can you use crown tables(www.installcrown.com/Crown_angle_generator.html) to calculate the compound angles to cut it on the flat. I don't do much crown.. It works very well for baseboard though

[@OBFTILE]

I want to buy the makita for laying down wood floors and some baseboards Will it work for me? I dont do much finecarpentry Which would you recommend for me

[@cpayne1123]

+Oscar Barradas The Makita is perfect for that, I just finished putting some unfinished floor and baseboard in with it, came out very clean.

[@oman636]

does anyone know if the bosch still has the fence issue? i'm assuming so

[@NateCougill]

Have you tried making a sacrificial back fence for the Bosch like they recommend in the manual? You should be able to get that as perfect as you want.

[@enushalu2548]

Nice review !

[@korsu1234]

You should compare same prize and size mitersaws,That bosh is much bigger saw.

[@Evenflows1]

Does this saw have the quick break stop after you complete a cut? Or does it run for a bit then stop?

[@breaktime919]

That makita cut through 4x6, 4x12? One pass?

[@cpayne1123]

no unfortunately, the max depth of cut is about 2.5 inches

[@AB-ft2lb]

There is a huge problem with the Makita where if you do a bevelled mitre cut, the blade with actually eat into the fence! Is that a manufacturing error or do most mitre saws do this? I have one ordered but I am thinking of cancelling it.

[@Miiike604]

any updates/since you filmed this?

[@cpayne1123]

+Mike Neufeld I haven't actually used the Makita too much yet, but from what I've done there seems to be some weird blade chatter that occurs sporadically, i'll have to pin down what it is in the coming months. Overall I really like it, its very portable, the bearings have smoothed out a bit but not entirely, and it's very precise, giving predictably clean cuts. The biggest problem has been the terrible bevel indicator, it's almost impossible to tell what angle youre at, and for some reason the zero and other stops are 'squishy' so its very hard to tell when youre truly at zero or 45; I may try to take it apart and adapt it. I think the saw is a great value, in order to make it work how I would really like it too I think I'll have to do a few involved modifications (fix stoppers, make a new bevel indicator). I see it as the better of two evils, where this is a good simply base that I can adapt.

[@Miiike604]

+Goating awesome. great to hear more feedback. I think I'm set on it. thanks so much for the response. your video has helped me immensely.

[@321berber]

5/1000" in wood is an issue? come on...

[@egilsandnes9637]

Try mitering a frame of some sort with quite broad boards. That error will add up form all the four corners. You will always manage to make it work, but slight angle errors is sometimes a big time consumer.

[@enushalu2548]

Yes, variation in wood cuts leave ugly slightly thing. Wood Flooring and Trim work especially. (the big question is with modern machinery and technology why can't a miter saw cut with 0.001" ...how hard is it to have straight fence)

[@cory0814]

It's not an issue. It's not relevant at all. The naked eye would never notice that in ANY frame. I've worked in cabinet shops for years and a 1/64" is tolerable and acceptable. Even the fly in this video can smell the BS. Anyone who takes the advice of a guy in a Cosby sweater using a VERY CHEAP level that looks like it was found on the side of the road is a tool themselves. 1/1000" is only relevant in a machine shop. When I made saw blades we used micrometers and the like. I've been around master craftsmen all my life from all trades and I have never heard a single one mention 1/1000 of anything. Go back your desk job with the other yuppies.

[@bradleyroe4558]

@@cory0814 .....and doing a test on knees and on top of an unequal surface? 30 years day in and out as a woodworker,a bad tradesman always blames his tools!!!!

[@paddyboy1403]

@@cory0814 please help do you think this is a problem kzbin.info/www/bejne/bZ6cnGiHrttqnbc

[@markmacthree3168]

The Bosch is inaccurate and for the money is over priced shite.

[@weedylock]

lol they way you explain things is like you are talking to people who never held a power tool in their hand, just get to the point ffs.

[@roadwarrior8560]

You should be a politician, just get to the point and stop waffling ffs.