Manual Delta Calibration using M665 and M666

[@3DigitalCooks]

I keep coming back to this video, everytime I build a printer, master piece!!!!

[@mattmoeman]

appreciate this a lot! a kossel kit landed in my lap and this helped SO much with the final calibration

[@JayCouture3D]

Great. Additional information at reprapandme.blogspot.com

[@JayCouture3D]

Just ran through this process on this same printer after replacing the printed sliders with THK SHS15 linear guides. I just followed along with the video (though did not use the visual calculator since I had to redesign the frame pieces. Took about 20 minutes, though I wasn't timing it.

[@ServetEdu]

Thanks alot! This completely solved my endstop and bedleveling issues. A reminder to those using Marlin! If changing X and Y offsets works but changing Z offset doesn't the add this to your code in Marlin_main.cpp under the function static void homeaxis (int axis){} enable_endstops(false); // Ignore Z probe while moving away from the top microswitch. current_position[axis] = 0; plan_set_position(current_position[X_AXIS], current_position[Y_AXIS], current_position[Z_AXIS], current_position[E_AXIS]); destination[axis] = -home_retract_mm(axis) * axis_home_dir; plan_buffer_line(destination[X_AXIS], destination[Y_AXIS], destination[Z_AXIS], destination[E_AXIS], feedrate/60, active_extruder); st_synchronize(); enable_endstops(true); // Stop ignoring Z probe while moving up to the top microswitch again. Then under #ifdef DELTA add the following if (endstop_adj[axis] * axis_home_dir < 0) { enable_endstops(false); plan_set_position(current_position[X_AXIS], current_position[Y_AXIS], current_position[Z_AXIS], current_position[E_AXIS]); destination[axis] = endstop_adj[axis]; plan_buffer_line(destination[X_AXIS], destination[Y_AXIS], destination[Z_AXIS], destination[E_AXIS], feedrate/60, active_extruder); st_synchronize(); enable_endstops(true); The two pieces of code should allow the Z offset to be confirmed :) Thanks again Jay!

[@HrDernacht]

THX soooooo much Servet !!!

[@HrDernacht]

can't i change the Marlin_main.cpp file to the fixed one on github? doesn't compile anymore...

[@jiahonglee61]

ok, I think I'd settle the m666 setting. now is I can't move my nozzle below 0. according to your video is send g1 s1 to disable the boundary check like 6:42. but it's seem not working. how's that possible?

[@JayCouture3D]

What firmware. I am using Smoothieware which has this functionality.

[@jiahonglee61]

marlin firmware, ok your guide was good I'd follow your video to calibrate it, it work but after restart it the eeprom setting was off same as the calibration, am I missing something at the last part?

[@JayCouture3D]

"the eeprom setting was off same as the calibration" - I don't understand this sentence. Are you saying the values you saved to EEPROM with the M500 command reverted back to what they were before calibration?

[@jiahonglee61]

It's like mess up I think it's gonna do with i dismentle the z probe cause after that got pop out error then the eeprom data all out

[@JayCouture3D]

reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G0_.26_G1:_Move looks like to ignore end stops you use s0. s1 checks the end stops.

[@LMG3D3DPrintingEnthusiast]

Hello, I just recently build my first 3d printer a generic kossel mini. After several days of figuring it out I am at the point of calibration. I am using a version of marlin not sure how now or old it is. The m666 command is not working for me, its not changing the values at all. I am not sure what to do. I have eeprom enabled and I am using Ponterface. It worked once with the X axis and has not worked since

[@tripives1858]

(A more simple method? Maybe...) Jay, thank you so much for the comprehensive video walking us through this iterative process. Before I ran across your video I was researching how to do this and contemplating mechanisms by which to accomplish the same goal. I am a 3D printing newbie, so please forgive my ignorance in the following questions. It seems to me that each time I "fiddle" with the physical configuration of my Kossel, I need to re-calibrate. It also seems to me that the process you provided, while very accurate, can take quite a bit of time. I also found that my initial set-up of the printer was very accurate in printing a large circle. I wondered why it was so accurate right out of the box, and then I attributed it to my experience in finish carpentry and making very accurate measurements (i.e. height of end-stop screws, etc). This got me to wondering... Assuming my print bed has no convexity, if I make sure the printer is absolutely plumb, and the print bed is absolutely level, then fire off a G28 command and very accurately check for level between all three resting rail slides (or whatever they are called), by adjusting the stop-screws, wouldn't that accomplish the same thing? In other words, if the plane between each and every rail slide, in the home position, is absolutely parallel to the plain of the print platform, aren't we in essence ensuring homogeneity across the entire print plate? At that point, we only need to determine G1, Z0. No? The reason I ask is that I can run this check in about 1 min, as opposed to 20 or 25 min. Just wondering. Thanks so much!

[@JayCouture3D]

Yes, if all other items are perfect you can use physical manipulations of the home button offsets. This is the way typical reprap printers do it. Your convexity will be in the movement and caused by your delta_radius not being exact. The firmware does a series of Pythagorean equations to determine position and the lengths of the sides of the triangles formed between the diagonal rods (hypotenuse) and the base (delta radius) are critical. The length of your rods will determine the scaling (in X and Y) and the radius will determine the convexity. The whole purpose of the endpoint offsets is so the tower carriages move the same distance in Z to reach the print bed with the effector centered. I still prefer firmware offsets over the mechanical one and either (or both in combination) will work. Once you do the whole process, you never have to re-calibrate unless you change something physical. For me, I replaced sliders with linear guides and re-calibrated since my delta radius had changed.

[@tripives1858]

Thanks Jay! I keep learning thanks to people like you who share their knowledge.

[@wbrokow1]

will you make a video doing this in Repetier?

[@girsanggarsiman1501]

how to get alpha beta & gamma tower theta value ? is that a fixed value for all type & dimension of delta 3d printer ?

[@JayCouture3D]

Girsang Garsiman reprapandme.blogspot.com/ almost to the bottom where I talk about converting polar to Cartesian. “Deltas are equidistant from one another or 360/3 = 120 degrees apart. Since the Z(gamma) tower is on the y-axis it's at 90 degrees...with me so far? So now if I add 120 degrees to 90 then we are at 210 degrees for the X(alpha) tower and 310 for the Y(beta) tower.”

[@FininshTheDangProject]

Son of a Bee Sting! Wish I had found this video 4 days ago. This is the only one that works. Do you have a Paytreon?

[@brunocabral1578]

DO you have a video like this but using a inductive sensor in z-min (used to auto bed leveling) to detect the bed? I think it could simplify things big time! Thanks for sharing, very good video

[@JayCouture3D]

Bruno Cabral I do not. With this method, I calibrate once and never have had to again unless I make a physical change to my printer like a new hot end. It’s been 5 years since I last calibrated and I print frequently.

[@jennysqueo3704]

I have a problem with my printer . External diameter is different from inter about 1.3 mm . Inner diam. Is shorter . How to correct it ?

[@christianferreira8887]

Jay, great video! Just one thing, on 4:18 - Marlin -- M206 is used for offset not Max Z.

[@JayCouture3D]

Thanks, I've added a note to the comments. And I will try to add an overlay.

[@JayCouture3D]

Thanks. I have added a note and an annotation to try and correct this.

[@ScienceLab760]

Hi nice tutorial of calibration, Could you say me how can configure the circular base on pronterface or what reference of software do you using, thanks.

[@JayCouture3D]

In Pronterface, or you can use Repetier host, there is a option: go to Printer Settings->Printer Shape and choose round. Then you'll also have to set you X and Y offset to be half the diameter of your print bed so it displays the part int he center of the plate.

[@ScienceLab760]

Thanks for your reply

[@madarakis]

What are Alpha Tower Theta, Beta Tower Theta, Gamma Tower Theta? How did you measure them?

[@JayCouture3D]

reprapandme.blogspot.com/2013/12/the-basics.html scroll to Firmware and look for the coordinate plane. Basic geometry is used to describe them.

[@yotubehay]

Can those steps can be applied to setting a different printer wit smothie board ?

[@seriousCADninja]

I have a Rostock 3D printer that has screws that can be adjusted where the carriages hit the end stops. Is it the same if I adjust the offset from the screws. Or this method is better?

[@JayCouture3D]

+seriousCADninja If you are able to adjust the end stops mechanically with sub millimeter accuracy then you can adjust the screws. However, I believe using the offsets is much fast and more reliable for me. I calibrate a printer one time and it stays calibrated until I change a physical feature like the hotend.

[@seriousCADninja]

+Jay Couture Hey! Thanks for the video and the reply! I just managed to calibrate my 3d printer with the screws. Now it passes the paper test in the 4 test locations (Y,X,Z,Center) :D

[@Andrea240389]

Hi, I have tried to use M666 with 1.1.3-AC and 1.1.1a-AC Marlin versions, but with both of them seems like I am only able to edit 2 axes values, if I try to edit the 3rd axis (it doesn't matter which one) all of the 3 values are overwritten with some lower values, and one of them, probably the Z axis is set to -0.0. When this happens the printer height changes too (the one you can check with M665 command).Do you know why that happens or if is a bug in the firmware?I have a FLSUN Kossel Mini.

[@JayCouture3D]

Sounds like a FW bug. I do not use Marlin any more but there were times when I would go into the firmware to look at how something was being done and to modify it to suit my needs. Per marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M666.html M666 is not implemented yet?

[@Andrea240389]

It is present in both versions I have used, just only 2 axes works or if you modify all of them they got bugged and bugs the printer height too. The firmware provided with the printer bought from 3dprintersonlinestore was an older version as the M666 command was not available and many others too. Not to mention the horrible guide they have provided which leads you to unassemble and reassemble the printer multiple times. It took me 23 hours only for building it and almost 2 weeks to get a decent calibration, still not perfect.

[@JayCouture3D]

forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,282375

[@peliganferencz]

hey all, i have a question about the x y z towers calibration, when i use the m666 gcode my firmware stays the same, it doesn't changes the values, i need to cancel my endstops ? Cuz my delta has endstops. I'm using Marlin 2.0.x alpha snapshot. were can i unlock the EEPROM.

[@JayCouture3D]

The eeprom commands are m500 to store settings and m503 to display them. M666 allows you to adjust the ends stops and you’ll have to save the setting each time with m500. Have you followed reprapandme.blogspot.com/2014/02/first-tests-and-calibration.html

[@tomasbond4167]

hey, got a problem. i calibrate fine the towers but when i go back to the center, the nozzle is 1x lower than it should be. how can i correct this?

[@tomasbond4167]

tried to change the delta radius but doesnt makes any difference

[@JayCouture3D]

This is an iterative process. Based on your next reply changing the DR had no effect. But I'm not sure where or how you are changing the DR. Have you read the process on my blog too?

[@tomasbond4167]

Please share your blog link, im changing Dr with m665 Code in pronterface. Im using smoothieboard.

[@JayCouture3D]

Ok, looks like I did not write a specific post for Smoothie, and my blog is reprapandme.blogspot.com. When you run m501, can you email that to me at [e-mail] and we can take this offline

[@jd52wtf]

If you are using Repetier you can assign all of these commands to macro buttons. Saves a shit ton of time. Incidentally this is all I use for calibration and I have had no issues whatsoever. Autocal is overrated and mostly unnecessary.

[@MrApru1]

Jay, Is M665 supported in the stock Marlin Delta FW? Or, only in Rich C's version?

[@JayCouture3D]

I posted my reply here: groups.google.com/d/msg/deltabot/pw_hHgjurp8/6PGPgDcvcXsJ

[@MrApru1]

Thanks, Jay. I appreciate the work you put into the community! Especially when it comes to answers idiots like me :-)

[@jacksonsherriff9899]

what is the advantages of using this method over using the endstop srews

[@JayCouture3D]

More precision I would think. My endstops do not have screws except those that hold the switch to the aluminum extrusion.

[@KyleKhaosPowell]

Your machine is so fast. Mine is much slower, and I have the linear rails instead of the printed guides. Are these settings adjustable too?

[@JayCouture3D]

Yes you can modify the acceleration and top speed of each axis. I have acceleration M204 set to 2000.00 mm/sec^2 and top speed M203 to 300.00 (look at 4:37 to see the stored values).

[@Antoniobeta]

Is possible to make the calibration in marlin whitout using the eeprom? I mean, changin values in marlin configuration. Thanks

[@JayCouture3D]

Yes, but why would you want the hassle of changing a value, then having to disconnect from the host software so you could flash the updated configuration file, then reconnect to test the new settings....it would take so much longer.

[@Antoniobeta]

I have tried to calibrate using m666 but it doesn´t matter wich value i give to the x, y or z y it always makes the same.

[@JayCouture3D]

Antonio beta Do you have your eeprom enabled? Look to see if #define EEPROM_SETTINGS is in your configuration.h file. If so, remove the # and flash your controller to enable EEPROM.

[@Antoniobeta]

Yes, i have it enabled

[@JayCouture3D]

Antonio beta Do you have a link to the version or marlin you are using. It should support the M666 and M665 gcodes.

[@Johncoffee2002]

Nice video :-) On my Rostock I can't move the head to negative Z values. (Repetier 0.9.2) Not sure why. Do you have any suggestion how to solve this?

[@JayCouture3D]

+John Coffee Maybe reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M211:_Disable.2FEnable_software_endstops I have another video on calibration where I used Repetier and here is my blog reprapandme.blogspot.com/2014/02/irst-tests-and-calibration-repetier.html

[@Johncoffee2002]

+Jay Couture Thanks Jay, I will look into Reprap and sure also your blog! Best regards - John

[@Johncoffee2002]

Just a short feedback: disable software endstop isn't supported by any FW when checking the G-code site

[@stanvirg]

Hello excellent video,i have set all the towers so paper just drags,but when I check the center I am 1mm higher then edges(convex). I'm using smoothieboard any help is much appreciated

[@JayCouture3D]

stanvirg This means you need to keep going through the steps. Modify the delta radius, then re-calibrate the 3 tower touch points, then confirm the center. reprapandme.blogspot.com/2014/02/irst-tests-and-calibration-repetier.html

[@stanvirg]

Jay Couture Thank you for quick reply, ya I realized I changed the delta radius with out calibrating edges, nothing changed at center. After changing delta radius re calibrating edges I have dialed it in. Thanks again

[@JayCouture3D]

stanvirg Great. Now that you have it manually calibrated, you won't have to do it again unless you physically change the printer. I have not had to re-calibrate my original mini Kossel, even after it sat for 6+ months unused.

[@HrDernacht]

=) first let me thank you for this very nicely made tutorial video I am using marlin with eeprom writing enabled M666 X-5 Y-4.3 Z-4.5 works just fine for x and y but not for z!=??? any idea how that could be? makes NO sense to me... M501 says the endstop offsets under M666 are the sent values e.g. X-5 Y-4.3 Z-4.5 i can see the carriages of x and y physically move down after homing but z does just not do it :/

[@jennysqueo3704]

This method always work . Grt job

[@JayCouture3D]

Yep, for me too. I haven't had to recalibrate for 6 years now.

[@bradreed1395]

Hi! I'm using Marlin and G1 S1 doesnt work to go below 0 on the Z axis. Any tips? Cheers

[@epicsnowmastersnow6054]

just change "#define min_software_endstops true " to "#define min_software_endstops false " in configuration.h

[@itubal]

Great video. But not new for me. I spent a lot of time calibrating my Rostock Mini. In the beginnin of the video you show 3 "middle" points "L, R and F" but you dont show how to calibrate them. In my Rostock Mini the four points X, Y, Z and C are in the same plane, same board-hotend gap. But in F is greater and in R are smaller or even the hotend crashes with the bed. How can I solve this? How can I calibrate this points. Thankyou for your videos.

[@JayCouture3D]

+itubal The LRF are midpoints that mirror the x,y,z points at each of the towers. If you calibrate to x,y,z and the center and your build surface is flat, then you should also be able to calibrate to l,f, and r without issue. It only takes three points to define a plane. As for the Rostock since the reliability of the tower offsets is less than the Kossel, it could be that you need to account for tower misalignment or other. That is outside the scope of this video.

[@itubal]

Ok! " It only takes three points to define a plane" but ... Are you sure that the printer prints a plane? l, r and f must be calibrated. If you don't know how, i'll search another tutorial. Thankyou for sharing, its a great video.

[@JayCouture3D]

+itubal Yes I'm sure, and you are welcome to find a resource that provides the answer you want to hear. I only speak from my personal experience and have calibrated several delta printers (some over the internet) so I do have a basis for my comments. However there is a reliance on the build quality of the printer and your's is a Rostock not a Kossel and I admittedly have no experience with those.

[@jiahonglee61]

ok I'd follow the video to calibrate my 3d printer but it's seem like i can't store my data at eeprom, everytime i restart my 3d printer after calibration the whole thing gone was it related to bed levelling?

[@JayCouture3D]

Is EEPROM active on your controller? If so did you issue the M500 to save your settings before shutting your printer of?

[@ajmmc221]

hi could you please help. I tried following your video but the problem with my delta printer is that it doesn't show z0 at bed but shows z362. when I enter m665 command it doesn't show any numbers. my printer only prints first layer and doesn't build up and starts to dig in previous layer. what is problem can you help, thanks.

[@JayCouture3D]

Sorry I never saw this post. I have a blog that walks you through the steps too. reprapandme.blogspot.com/ Start with the first post and go forward from there.

[@amdeloach]

Please help. I've followed this guide, and went through the setting up of the endstop offsets, checking center, and adjusting M665 R(value) until all of the places matched up. Each endstop had the same amount of drag on the paper, and centered, it had the same amount of drag. I then went to print, and the tip of the extruder digs into the surface of the print at the edges. I've read all sorts of reasons that this could be happening, but I don't know that any of them are correct at this point (having tested some, and come up with nothing).

[@JayCouture3D]

when you test the drag at each point, is it at Z=0?

[@amdeloach]

It is, I would test the point, get it to the point where the paper is dragging, see where the Z level is, and set the endstop point. After setting the endstop, i would retest the point, to make sure that it was the same drag i was getting before the endstop update. If it wasn't I'd change the endstop again, until i got the same drag at each of the towers. I would then test the center, and adjust the Radius a little, and go back through the endstop calibration. I eventually got them all the same, but when printing, the extruder head would scrap the outside edge of the build plate.

[@moliveira21]

I do the center adjustment, then I do the offset adjustment of the 3 endstop, after the 3 endstop are right, the center gets higher =[ And if I adjust to the height of the printer's z, the 3 points are too tight

[@JayCouture3D]

That means you need to adjust your horizontal radius value. See Step 2 on reprapandme.blogspot.com/2014/02/irst-tests-and-calibration-repetier.html

[@Moby41]

My M666 commands aren't working. I set the offset and I'm always getting the same value when I lower the hotend.

[@JayCouture3D]

Teh Stranger? What firmware are you using?

[@Moby41]

Jay Couture I am using Marlin

[@billyblaze8681]

Teh Stranger? Sounds like you haven't enabled EEPROM by removing the comments on line 519 and 522 of your Configuration.c

[@Moby41]

Billy Blaze Nah its enabled. I ended up changing to RichCattel's Marlin fork and now I have my printer all calibrated and working perfectly.

[@fev4]

+Teh Stranger? Thanks for your comment. You put me on the right track.

[@dirkheuen2323]

nice good video, i hae a problem and i hope u can help. when i calibrate my delta , all points (x,y,z,c) are the same heigh but when i print a testbox (20,20,10mm) x and y are 3mm greater but the x is ready

[@JayCouture3D]

minow.blogspot.com/index.html#4918805519571907051 Step 4. It means your delta rod length you specified is not correct.

[@dirkheuen2323]

Jay Couture thx for ur answer. must the length greater or smaller

[@JayCouture3D]

Missed this follow up. Step 4 in the link above: new DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD = desired length / measured_length * original DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD. Since your measured length is bigger than desired by 3 mm, then 20/23 means you diagonal rod length is too long.

[@trefhi]

Hello! I've been fighting with my kossel XL for almost 2 months and I can't fix it. my problem is the M665 command, the printer never loads it when I reset it. It only works If I put it manually on Pronterface and without disconnecting it. M666 works fine. Everything is saved and correct but L and R never loads. EEPROM is enabled. I'm using Amega+ramps and the latest RC marlin version. I don't know what more to do... Thanks!

[@JayCouture3D]

+trefhi I have not used Marlin in many years. Are you including the decimal in the values (maybe post the M665 command you are using)?

[@trefhi]

+Jay Couture This one: M665 L280.53 R178.50 S160.00 and M500 for save. I read something that M665 only works on the smoothie?? But I don't find more people with the same problem...

[@JayCouture3D]

+trefhi Marlin supports it. Look at line 201 in Marlin_main.cpp (github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/RC/Marlin/Marlin_main.cpp) and line 4506 for the actual code implementation. This is Marlin 1.1.0-RC3 - 01 December 2015

[@trefhi]

+Jay Couture Yes everything it's there. That's the Marlin I'm using. But still not loading the parameter unless manually. I will take a look on repetier but seems more complicated than marlin.

[@JayCouture3D]

+trefhi Email me "jay.couture at gmail dot com" the results of sending an m501 as well as what the m665 command you are using. After m665 are you sending an m500 to save the value with m500?

[@fastneonman1977]

dose this not work for marlin because when i use the m666 command it doesn't work

[@JayCouture3D]

marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M666.html

[@sarahparsons5624]

What if I enter M501 and I have none of the settings you are showing available? SENDING: M501 ok 0 Transformation matrix: 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000 Select Extruder:0 FlowMultiply:100 Info:Configuration loaded from EEPROM I'm getting very frustrated with this printer and was hoping a manual level like this could resolve my issues

[@JayCouture3D]

Sarah Parsons This video is a few years old and the technology has changed a lot I’m sure. My blog posts are still available that go into the “why” of this process. Your firmware sounds like a lot of new setting have been added. Are you using either Smoothieware or Marlin? The transformation matrix is generated from probing, are you using a probe?

[@sarahparsons5624]

@@JayCouture3D I think you hit the nail on the head there. I was hoping this would give me a way to add manual initial values as my printer didn't come with the probe (level sensor) and I've been waiting 2 months for the replacement. I had hoped there would be some way to tell the printer these values rather than requiring the probe to create the initial values that I modify. It seems like this isn't possible unfortunately.

[@jiahonglee61]

What's the m665 s stand for?

[@JayCouture3D]

reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M665:_Set_delta_configuration

[@abelvillanueva7038]

you are the MAN!!! Thanks for your video.

[@jiahonglee61]

I still not understand about m666part can you explain

[@JayCouture3D]

Did you check my blog? What firmware are you using and does it support M666? M666 allows you to se and extra offset to the home position. Home position is usually when the carriage reaches the endstop switch. M666 sets the extra value the carriage will be moved away from the physical stop against the switch, and this new physical position becomes "0" for that tower. In the video above at 4:53, you can see the M666 X tower is -2 mm away from the physical switch after homing.

[@jiahonglee61]

Nevermind about that I'd recreate a new marlin firmware

[@giannagiavelli5098]

how do you make a custom button???

[@JayCouture3D]

What host software are you using? In the video I am using Pronterface (not sure if it's still around). You don't need a custom button or buttons to do this, just was a nice to have feature. I use Repetier Host exclusively now and it doesn't have or need that feature.

[@jiahonglee61]

I think I'd found the problem, "nozzle heating failure. Press reset." What it mean?

[@JayCouture3D]

It most likely means you have your temperature probe wires connected to the wrong pin or port on your controller. It's a safety feature to prevent fires.

[@xavierloo8070]

Hi, I have a convex print plane. Thing starts working when I follow your guide. I keep changing XYZ offset and delta radius and the center starts lowering down. However, I have reached a maximum delta radius ~105mm (with XYZ towers stay ~1mm above the surface when Z = 0), the center still have ~ (negative)2mm to reach the surface... I can't increase the delta radius anymore or the extruder head will go beyond the boundary of the print bed at Z=0 on each tower... p.s. my print bed diameter is 170mm... Can you or anyone else help me? Please :'(

[@JayCouture3D]

You need to increase your Z max distance to enable more travel or disable soft endstops

[@xavierloo8070]

yes, I have disabled the software endstops.. And what's the Z max distance? is it the max print height?

[@JayCouture3D]

Z_MAX_POS or MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS in your configuration.h file. // Distance between the nozzle to printbed after homing

[@xavierloo8070]

I have increased the Z max distance.. the only thing changed is all the points (center and XYZ Towers) have lowered down but still travel beyond the print bed boundary with the delta radius I have mentioned.. 😢😢😢

[@xavierloo8070]

X Tower, Z=0, delta radius =110 _lh3.googleusercontent.com/yp0u6183HxrRABZvwTSJ91CKgDeJFozfr0_nHH1xhv-wjMQFFEWGa5uByvOKWnC3j4uzoRgjJg_

[@BhTB1]

Excellent.... Thanks Jay

[@JayCouture3D]

You're welcome.

[@evgenn787]

i have marlin but my printer ignored m500 m501 and other command for EProm, and m206 for Z axic work wrong, give only 464.30 every time =(

[@JayCouture3D]

+Evgeniy NIkitin reprap.org/wiki/Marlin You have to be sure to enable EEPROM in the configuration.h (uncomment #define EEPROM_SETTINGS) file to have this functionality.

[@evgenn787]

Thank you !

[@evgenn787]

+Jay Couture I sent a m501, but not see 666 665 komand`s in reply. I have marlin 1.0.0 . In reply i have only this: SENDING:M501 echo:Stored settings retrieved echo:Steps per unit: echo: M92 X100.50 Y100.50 Z100.50 E220.00 echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s): echo: M203 X200.00 Y200.00 Z200.00 E200.00 echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2): echo: M201 X9000 Y9000 Z9000 E9000 echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration echo: M204 S3000.00 T3000.00 echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s) echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z20.00 E20.00

[@evgenn787]

And when i try to correct x\y tower, printer has ignored my ( m666 x-0.9) example..... i send m500, g28 and try this position again, but no result. Settings not save.

[@evgenn787]

And now, i habe big delta lens effect , about 3mm from center to x\y\z towers.

[@DaneelYaitskov]

what is build_radius? Is it DELTA_RADIUS?

[@JayCouture3D]

It's been awhile since I watched this video. Are you referring to the "build plate radius" (at 0:57). If so, then this is used to calculate the recommended rod length (assuming a minimum angle of 20 degrees when the the end effector is at it's further point from a tower). If not, please provide time stamp so I can review.

[@bdureau1]

Thanks a lot for sharing It did the trick for me

[@JayCouture3D]

Bob Bo Great, glad it was useful. Are you going to try the fine calibration video next?

[@anubitsa7799]

thanks a lot of for me. i am begining to build kossel 3d printer.

[@baipmd8911]

confusing, still dont get it

[@JayCouture3D]

Bai pmd thanks for the feedback. I have not had to recalibrate since my last comment so I can't be sure what your confusion is. Good luck.

[@derivas007]

dear jay could you make a video to show us how to use this www.escher3d.com/pages/wizards/wizarddelta.php i love all you video is a real guide for beginners it could be great if you create a new one with new feature support for delta in the recently marlin 1.1

[@JayCouture3D]

Never used this calculator tool. The method I show works, I use it personally.

[@BoeingBrian]

Great!!!

[@jacksonsherriff9899]

nevermind, i levelling is different calibration

[@JayCouture3D]

Lost me, what is "i leveling"?

[@jacksonsherriff9899]

sorry, the "i" is not supposed to be there

[@jacksonsherriff9899]

i was supposed to say that levelling it different to calibration

[@JayCouture3D]

I have to disagree with you. You calibrate to get linear and co-planar motion to the build surface. I don't see those being independent of each other., since the X and Y accuracy of your prints also depending on the accuracy of the delta rod length in the firmware.

[@jacksonsherriff9899]

sorry i'm very new to delta printers and i am trying to wrap my head around them before my one comes in the mail

[@XFI1]

So complicated isn’t there easier way..? 😭