Maple fretboard refret with Stainless steel frets = fun...

[@cnvl1478]

The attention to detail shown in this video is mindboggling. Incredible work!

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

Thanks so much

[@alandust2188]

Love the glue bottles. Had to pause the video to go find them before I forgot. Thanks and you don't ever need to apologize for giving extra tips!

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

haha- there is a link to them in the description

[@Cymbaline713]

I must admit it never would've occurred to me to do a refret this way, to meticulously replicate every original fret before installing them so that the new ones fit perfectly, and to pre-create the hemispherical fret ends. I've tried filing in the hemispherical fret ends after installing them, but with limited success. Will have to try this some time!

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

Many ways to do the same thing but pre shaping as much as possible means less chance of damaging finish

[@AndyK.23]

Amazing precision! And polishing the ends of the frets before installing them lets you get to every angle and really smooth those ends!

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

Thansk- I aim to do a clean job!

[@weslester5150]

I really like this method for sure!!

[@johnherdt]

Thanks again Beau for helping me with the stainless steel frets on my Strat that appears in this video. I'm glad to have one Strat with bulletproof frets, especially the hard tail. I'm using it for a session right now and know 20 sessions down the line the frets won't have those first marks that look like the butter is starting to melt. In regards to tone and feel versus standard wire, I would say they are very slightly brighter, though I play with the same strings for years and the new strings are like first press olive oil for harmonics so I'm not used to them. Feel wise they aren't too slippery, chords up the neck don't slip out of tune. Some of the positions that were slightly dead have more life in them now. Very smooth and stable for bending notes. That guitar is going to get used a lot.

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

Thanks John- Glad you are liking them :)

[@johnherdt]

Your great workmanship, attention to detail and creative problem solving rock, I'm lucky to have hooked up with you.

[@scaira60]

Beau, I hate working with stainless steel fret wire it’s too hard***(Thats What She Said) Great job Beau You Rock🎸🎸🎸🎸🎸🎸🎸

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

hahaha

[@LeviBulger]

It's so much easier to take the fret end to the edge of a diamond sharpening block and shape the end that way. Goes much quicker than using a traditional file.

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

Not if the ends are shaped round

[@tmakluf]

Nice job. My luthier did an refret with stainless frets on my 2013 MIM. For what I researched, it is kind off impossible to maintain the best/original aesthetics when refreting a maple fretboard. In my case, the gaps where filled with wood filler. it is not that noticeable though

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

This was my first time doing it and it seemed to go pretty darn well. Vintage or older necks would be problematic- prior to the mid 1980's the frets were installed sideways and it gets tricky then. Each neck/fingerboard is different though if it chips out or if the frets were lacquered over,.

[@SarcastSempervirens]

Man, you are a fucking legend! Thank you so much for this video, I'm starting a small guitar service shop and my first job is refretting a maple fretboard. You have just made my life easier and hopefully I'll have a satisfied client. This is exactly how I wanted to do it, preshaping and finishing the frets but never found such a detailed and exhausting tutorial on it, this is gold. Thanks again and great job! One question - will it hurt the fret slot if I just take the frets out sideways even though it's a new neck, not an '80s or pre-'80s one? Yeah, the barbs will perhaps widen the slot while going out sideways but when you pull them out with pliers and bang the new ones in, you're never going to get new-barb-on-old-barb-mark anyway, so the slot is widened all the same at the first refret. Would you agree?

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

thanks- Hmmm- It dosn't sound like a good idea to pull frets out sideway inf they were installed from the top. While its try when you pull out a fret upwards and reinstall a fret you have to deal with that barb void of the previous fret/barb. But pulling them out sideways you rip out ALL the barb area. SO i think stay with up pull. I did any video (unreleased as yet) on a second maple fretboard where I do probably a better (more authentic way).The only difference is i don't pre shape the fret ends. I press them in then treat the fret ends the typical way (filing down the sides with a 30 degree angle. The semihemispherical fret ends are cool but not at all authentically fender.

[@SarcastSempervirens]

@@BeauHannamGuitars Thank you, lookin forward to the vid!

[@christianr.8885]

Nice fret ends superb, what glue do you used in?

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

Thanks :) I use Hot hide glue for frets

[@Siam_Thai.]

Hi, a guitar repairman told me that maple fretboards are incompatible with stainsteel frets. So I argued with him that Suhr guitar models with maple fretboards still use stainlesd steel frets. He then told me that Suhr's guitars were designed with stainless steel frets, so I was confused. Greetings from Thailand.🇹🇭🙏🙂

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

All fret alloys work in all wood species.

[@harrypalmer3481]

Excellent.

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

Thanks

[@jipes]

I've seen that Fender was actually sliding the frets from one side on their mapple neck. What is your comment on that ?

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

They did that on necks prior to 1984. This is a 2001 neck so no need to take them out or put them in sideways.

[@jipes]

@@BeauHannamGuitars OK got it

[@davidepannone6021]

What grit sandpaper would you use to level stainless steel frets? 180? 320?

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

Hi- it’s best to use the highest grit you can while maintaining efficiency of removing material. To harsh a grit means more work. I forget specifically but it was probably around P400

[@davidepannone6021]

@@BeauHannamGuitars thank you so much!

[@davecue]

Ive heard not to over radius stainless because its much springier?

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

Yep. The harder the steel, the less you should over bend it.

[@davecue]

Going to be doing this in the next couple of days on a 53 tele I’ve slid the fret out of. Going to be sliding them in again. Trying to avoid damaging the patina, and also installing a more durable wire. Then off to a plek machine to correct any weirdness in the fretboard, off the top of the frets.

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

@@davecue I think Dan Erlewine on the stewmac channel has a video on installing frets sideways- I’ve never done the sideways thing

[@davecue]

@@BeauHannamGuitarsI’ve seen Dan’s video on it, but this one is much better (imho) kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5DRgoSLedFpqac

[@artysanmobile]

I hope you know the joy your time and care bring to a guitarist watching this video. I had an awful experience with a hack utterly trashing my beloved 1958 Stratocaster during a SS re-fret, so I am watching everything I can find on the subject before shipping it off to a very highly regarded specialist in NY state for a full re-do. Everything you discuss with great care obviously sailed right over the head of the person who made the current mess. Bad radiusing is the worst of all as the ends are springing up on random frets. There are dozens of notes that cannot be played at all. As I learn more and more, I’m getting very excited to have my baby back soon.

[@Hello_there_obi]

Why would you try to cut them so precisely beforehand? Wouldn’t it create a lot of human error in the angles at the fret ends? Surely if you hammered in frets that were too long, you could just clip them and file them down uniformly?

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

I did rounded fret ends (semihemispherical) and its easier to do it before hand- especially on a maple fretboard/neck. On a typical refret I overhang them and file them off as you say.

[@Hello_there_obi]

@@BeauHannamGuitars what’s different about a maple neck if you don’t mind me asking? I’m researching for my own attempt on a maple necked strat! I cannot stand the lacquer on the neck and fretboard so I’m going to strip it all and refret in the process!

[@Patrick-857]

@@Hello_there_obi It's the finish.

[@pillikoda]

Huvitav lahendus on hea meelde jäta ja proovida

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

thanks :)

[@metricdeep8856]

Proper files are much harder than stainless steel...always! I don't understand why it's claimed that stainless frets destroy tools. Stainless steel will eat crappy tools, sure...But you bought crappy tools.....that's not the fault of anyone but the purchaser. Pre-polishing is great , if you get perfect alignment...but what if you don't?

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

I can’t remember if I mention it in this video, but start from the end of the fingerboard when you are pre shaping- that way if you make one too short for the 20th fret a lot, you can still use it on the 19th or 18th!!! :)

[@Patrick-857]

Stainless does destroy tools. It's honestly horrible stuff to work with in every way.

[@Patrick-857]

Stainless is simultaneously soft (by steel standards) and very hard. This is because of the added chromium which forms chromium carbides. This means the metal itself isn't necessarily hard, but the grain structure includes extremely hard crystals. It also retains heat, which also is bad for tools, and it work hardens. It's got all the hallmarks of a nightmare metal to work with apart from catching fire like titanium.

[@metricdeep8856]

@@Patrick-857 I agree. ...And with most Luthier tools being made for soft nickel/silver applications....you end up with tool failures. The whole world uses/machines stainless steel...it's not just a luthier problem. There are tool materials and techniques required to work stainless that are different from regular or even tool steels. It's a pain if you work harden something....but stainless doesn't "eat" tools. The wrong tool with the wrong technique "eats" tools.

[@metricdeep8856]

Bearings are sounding pretty bad in your drill press.

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

Oh it’s an old thing! I actually rarely drill holes I can’t justify spending $$$ on a new drill press. A mill/drill however :)

[@metricdeep8856]

@@BeauHannamGuitars lol...we all have those. Bearings are actually pretty cheap. Under ~15 bucks and can make a real difference as well as reduce drill bit wear. Cheers.

[@BeauHannamGuitars]

@@metricdeep8856 I’ll have to look into it . My band saw needs new guide bearings