Marantz 510M Amplifier Restoration Part 1

[@MrMersh-ts7jl]

Tony, I come here for the thoroughness and that includes all the mistakes and how you deal with them because that's reality. I'm an automotive tech and I try to teach the young guys that what separates a great tech from a decent tech is how they deal with the mistakes that come up or the issues they encounter. Thank you for doing this one and all the other ones

[@danhorton6182]

I just finished restoring a model 500, another Marantz beast. I dropped a “heavy” amount of money into the parts too. Like this series.

[@electronicsoldandnew]

Very interesting start 😊 kinda “se me mess up, and not edit out”. Coincidently, the video I’m posting today does exactly the same thing. I show a full scenario where I misread a schematic and go down a rabbit hole 😊 looking forward to this series. Thanks again.

[@drdyna]

I really enjoyed this video, with the work parts left in, I'm not sure why, there's something about it, like...it feels more like we're working on it with you. Sorry if that's corny, but it just feels cozy, like I can zen out watching this much the same way I can zen out when I'm working on a piece of electronics myself.

[@andybonneau9209]

Tony unchained, says the occasional kaka word. 😊 Seriously, this is a good format for those who are actually looking to do this work, particularly on this specific device. The devil is in the details.

[@steveh1273]

Watching you work, that's the meat and potatoes, not just electrical theory. Just built my first tube amplifier from a kit, taxing and tedious and a technical know-how learning curve even though I'm an electronics/electrical engineer.

[@willievivanco1]

tony,this is exactly what i like to see the ups and downs with the details even with mistakes shows that we are human.excellent video tony kkep it coming.

[@jimnunn9232]

A comment on the 12 gauge power cord. The 500M pushed the limits of the circuit breaker on a residential 15 Amp 120 V source. There were two larger amps that Marantz designed and prototyped (800M, 1000M). These amps could only pass UL if they were on a 230 V power source.

[@scanman84]

I kinda missed hearing your stories but enjoyed the video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I have learned so much by watching your videos. It's a wonderful hobby.

[@xraytonyb]

Well, i make a lousy mime, so you don't have to worry too much about me not talking :)

[@BTom16]

I love the cluttered bench. Its not about justifying my own swinery buy let's admit that a working shop balances between being functional and total entropy, at any given moment. There is always way too much to do so the shop gets cleaned in a fit of rage when it gets so bad you can't do or find anything. From there, it quickly returns to a visual representation of white noise. People with great work habits have my deepest respect but when I see friends shops, every one of them looks like mine and yours.

[@kristal77BGD]

Every experience gives us an opportunity to gain knowledge..Thank you so much for everything posted here..!!! Best of luck ☘

[@eddys.3524]

WOW !! Those were the Amps you usually only saw in the folders... I'm a bit jealous, Tony.

[@mikepxg6406]

Nice haircut Tony. Looking forward to this one. Good luck.

[@jdmccorful]

Kinda short!

[@IAWAF]

You sure do get interesting pieces Tony. 👍🏻

[@mcgjohn22]

the 510M was quite the amp when it was first released. Its the 2nd big power solid state amp from Marantz. The first was the Marantz 500. The 500 was only in production for a year or so before they discontinued it due to tons of warranty claims from folks who blew it up. The 500 was pretty easy to put into oscillation which happened pretty regularly. Marantz came out with the 510M as the replacement for the 500. Marantz was not interested in warranty claims so made the 510M as reliable as they could.

[@joes3485]

I had similar results removing rivets on terminal strips years ago. I now use a Dremel tool and small bits to grind away the rivets and avoid breaking the terminal strips. At least it is still possible to get new terminal strips!

[@user-qj5cu2xj8t]

Have the 510 (no M) fully restored. Emailed you a couple of questions some time ago about the restore but didn't get a reply. I'll be watching this series closely to see if they get answered. This was rated at 256 watts into 8 ohm. The 4 and 16 ohm ratings escape me. Your updated soft start circuit would do well in this unit. Thank you for the videos✌️

[@kingsunyan218]

Wow, great works, I am eager to see the part 2 of the restoration

[@Edisson.]

Beautiful 👍 this is how it's beautiful to see how it's put together, without torture I'll admit that I speeded up the unscrewing of the side panels and the cooler by x1.5 😁 Nice day 🙂 Tom

[@pglick123]

This is more ASMR than amplifier repair with Tony. I prefer the chit-chat.

[@xraytonyb]

You know me; there will always be the occasional solder-n-chat ;)

[@MrElectrowhiz]

I have the plain Marantz 510, without the meters. I quit using it when it developed a low level hum from both channels. It will stay produce audio just fine, but the hum is abouta quarter of the signal. I replaced the main filter capacitors, and that is all that i have done so far. Someday, I will get back in it to see what I can find.

[@tommybewick]

I think you should keep doing these behind the scene videos. That's the first time i ever heard you swear.😂 Although I do miss your narration.

[@ericbachmann8037]

I’m not a Marantz fan, but this amp is worth a watch.

[@dhpbear2]

This is the video equivalent of "Wordless Workshop" that used to be a feature in Popular Mechanics :)

[@garp32]

I like the idea of just rolling with the video. If anyone has ever watched Shamgo 066.. that's how he rolls. He make mistakes and we ALL learn from it. Of course nothing ever goes perfectly with this stuff. We don't live amongst the unicorns and glitter. "Poop happens". Thank you for always keeping the channel interesting and spreading your knowledge. I'm still pretty light on the electrical engineering side, but you do a great job explaining things so they make sense... to me it does anyway. This is a very interesting amp and definitely worth saving.

[@ronbradshaw7404]

That's the second on my wish list! :). I alreaddy got the No;1 SAE 2600 (and 2400) :) . Love the Models 250M and 140M too!

[@mauryfeskanich4523]

When you said you left in all the behind the scenes stuff, I thought, “Hey, a blooper reel!” Then you mentioned all the stuff going wrong, and I changed to, “OK, a bleeper reel!” 😂 Really enjoyed this one, and look forward to more like it! On a side note, how much does that power transformer weigh? I saw the 15A fuse spec on the back, but was still impressed!

[@garygranato9164]

xray t video always brightens up my day, thank you

[@robertduvall7392]

I love the run the camera continuously mode. It has to be a lot easier to edit. 100% behind it. Thanks for your postings! I'm getting ready to build a set of hybrid open baffle speakers. Hybrid because of the low end; I don't have the money for the motorized drivers and the controller. Such is life...

[@keybutnolock]

I like the style ! Thanks for sharing .

[@erikdenhouter]

Nice, silently watching paint dry while Led zeppelin performs Kashmir....

[@tekoppentekoppen761]

Had one. Amazing sound!

[@Discretesignals]

Tony's ASMR amp repair.

[@jeditoto3441]

Hi Tony, I send this out of desperation …I have my 510 on the bench on and off for last ~20 years. I just can’t find the core of the issue. Since you are working on one (maybe it is completed) - but I was hoping you could help. The initial issue was that both meters would go way up when I turned it on and then after a few seconds there was a loud pop and the meters came back to zero - when the differential comes on when C306 is charged. Meters going all the way up was that the output was going to almost -86V. after that I got loud pop then the amp was OK. So I suspect a major imbalance before diff tries to correct the imbalance. Same on both channel - but power supply is OK - checked on scope and replaced the filter caps. One thing I noticed early on was that the current in 2 branches of the diff amp were very different in R316 and R321. I found many issues: • Diff amp transistors with different gains with a 1 to 5 ratio ! • Leaky Q310, Q409, .. • Bad C307, CR303 (double diode) • …. In the last year I changed all the transistors, all the caps, many resistors including the big resistors (750, 250 1K), CR302 and 301( 19,8v Zener),… I used your method to match the diff amp transistors + TEK576, … The issue with the meters going all the up is much less now - when I short C306 the output now stays at around 0V so OK - but I still measure the imbalance on R316, r321 and r322/226 when the diff amp comes on after c306 is charged, I see a small jump on the meter. When I connect the 2 diff amp inputs together the output goes close to - power supply voltage ( in my last tests I never go to full supply voltage). But if I understand the amps principle correctly when the 2 inputs are connected together the output should the zero. I noticed one thing but can’t an issue with the components is that I never reach +/- 19.8V on the Zener regulate supplies at the input part of the amp it is rather at +/- 17.8v (so still balanced) - not sure this is normal. What ever I do with the amp complete (board + power xtor assembly ) I always get the imbalance on diff amp branches in R316/321 and or course the same imbalance after - even though output voltage is zero. So concluded that the diff amp is continuously trying to correct an imbalance …. But I can’t find the source of it. In my latest test I tested the board without the power xtor assembly (with the jumpers, as described in the SM) - and the currents seems balanced in the diff amp. So I suspected the power xtor assembly (every xtor is new) - but can’t find an issue. I have left the other board untouched. So I would like to ask you for some checks to do (if still possible) during the repair. Could you check, if my understanding of the amp operation is correct, that: • currents in R316, r321 and r322/226 are balanced when amp is idling - I assume my understanding is correct as the SM indicates 1.15mA and 2.88mA in the branches • the +/- 19.8 voltages Maybe my understanding is not … would also be great if you could explain the amps operation - especially with the master/slave architecture and the role of Q405 and Q402 and how the signal gets to the slave power xtors. I will a picture of the amp board component side with component IDs and put it Audiokarma. Not sure why Marantz has only the other side in the SM… One issue I also found is that that the double sided board is not easy to work on. I have damaged the board a bit (even though I have quite desoldering equipment (Weller 801) - then again the problem may be me 😊) - maybe you have some tips. I hope I am not abusing your kindness. I really need some help with this amp (I almost threw it out a couple of times of out frustration, spent about over 500 euro on parts+ bought equipment (tek576, SR715, ..), have disassembled the board and xtor assembly probably 300 times). And now I want to get the bottom of the issue.

[@xraytonyb]

I'll see what I can do.

[@jeditoto3441]

@@xraytonybThanks ! By the way - I'm the one who shares with you the enhanced Marantz 4400 SM a few years back :)

[@analoglooney]

Have you checked for parasitic oscillation on power up with a scope? I had this on a Citation 16 and a Luxman and it was open circuit capacitors in the Zobel network. Sometimes they were bolted across the speaker terminals, as in the Citation 16, and the nuts come loose and cause the amp to go into oscillation intermittently. I don't have much experience with the 510 but worth a check. They'll be a resistor and small capacitor strapped to ground to stop rf on the output. If either goes open it will oscillate.

[@Dutch-linux]

Loved it more like this please Tony ... maybe with a bit more talking 😃 can't wait for part 2 !!!

[@richardchuray329]

I like the way you tore through it but……did you mark the wires or for you is this simple enough that it wasn’t necessary. I spend a lot of time marking, taking pics, etc. you make it look so easy

[@afnDavid]

Tony grunt when lift that heavy thing. Ungh!!

[@morrisonAV]

Love your work, Tony, but I really miss your running commentary. BTW, what did the printing on the bottom of the transformer say and was there a production date on the chassis?

[@CATS1952TELLA]

I liked very much your new style video but I missed some of your explanation

[@kaleoride]

I would love to know the actual weight of that transformer!

[@alexdaciuk]

You can probably change that fan for a Noctua one that is more silent and probably moves the same amount of air

[@xraytonyb]

I have a replacement.

[@fabioagazzi8374]

Good evening, congratulations for your videos and I am learning a lot, I would like advice on replacing the BC550 and BC560 transistors on my amplifier as MOUSER electronics Italia gives me an obsolete BC560 and does not give me alternative transistors. Thank you for your availabilit

[@jeditoto3441]

Hi Tony, In case you are interested, I have the microcap circuit simulation for the 510.

[@wms256]

The Internet give this wrong idea that everything and everyone is perfect, but that idea could not be far from the truth.

[@kennyrmurray]

Again I had to re-subscribe. I don’t know what the deal is with that but it’s been happening a lot the last few months or so. At least that’s when I started noticing it. I’m surprised you weren’t talking to us while disassembling. I love seeing a nice heavy power cord like that coming out of an amp! I end up turning videos off when they play music and disassemble him high speed. I lose Interest fast when they do that. But nice job as usual Tony but this video is to short 🥹. I can’t wait to see how the print looks on the new faceplate because I may have to get the number of the person you’re having do it. I need the threading chart reprinted on my Clausing lathe and it’s aluminum with black print kinda like that. I’m not sure if I should be looking for somebody that does laser etching or some kind of print. That kind of stuff is out of my league but I’d like it to look as original as possible.

[@kennyrmurray]

I wish I could post a pic here to see what you think

[@brianrydzeski6108]

The 'shit' moments... I use a 12v (weaker) drill that has clutched settings. I know, small bits are supposed to be used 'fast', but in this case, I set the clutch setting to 1, and the Hi/Lo speed to low. I also use what people call an aviation bit - 6" long. Drill at a slow speed. It will get through the rivet. The main reason for clutch setting #1 is to have a brake to 'hopefully' not over torque. And Tony, I know from watching your video's, you have a lot of experience. I'm not telling you what to do. Merely sharing an idea in case you might want to try it. The other part of using a clutch setting... hole saw? Large Drill bit where if the bit stops the torque-wrap will sprain your wrist?... Use a torque setting high enough to spin the 'cutter-thingy', yet low enough so the drill's brake saves your wrist, or prevents a 'shit-moment' when the bit comes to a halt. Back to the video for me.

[@dhpbear2]

I'll be curious as to just how 'high-fidelity' this amp is. It seems to be targeted for use in PA systems, which are designed to be LOUD and not necessarily high-fidelity. Along the lines of Crown amps (which have NO speaker-protect relay)!

[@vmaxrydr1]

Where would you find a replacement face plate?

[@sirsuse]

And that my friends is why technicians charge what they do to service your equipment.

[@davidbailey6350]

Ready for part 2…….

[@Sandermaner]

Holy cow! You’re Mr Carlston’s left handed half dead uncle!

[@NovaluxStereophonic]

I just finished restoring a Marantz 3800, an excellent match for this amplifier… I wonder how rare that rack Mount faceplate is.

[@davidwolverton4858]

It’s going to be for sale soon lol. Before I bought the new faceplate I bought a NOS rack kit to go with it

[@astrovic0]

@@davidwolverton4858🎉🎉 😂🎉 🎉😂🎉🎉😂🎉🎉🎉 I ❤

[@astrovic0]

@@davidwolverton4858❤

[@jeditoto3441]

here is the replacements transistors I chose: Q301 = 2n5401 302= MPSA06 303= 2501 304& 306= MPSA06 305= MPSA42 the 2n3440/2n5415-->2n5416 Q401= MJE180 drivers = MJE15031/30 PWR Xtors= MJ15003/4 I tried to select based on specs and on what is available in Europe

[@MrElectrowhiz]

Did your amplifier have the foam filter under the top lid?

[@xraytonyb]

No, the filter was missing. This amp was in rough shape and it looks like it was used in a nightclub/DJ environment. It's all good, the inside of the amplifier filtered out all the dust ;))

[@NicolasVanWeyenbergh]

Ow, do i see on the left a Carver Amp between to Sansui's?

[@NicolasVanWeyenbergh]

I like to see that one on the bench.

[@xraytonyb]

They're on the "list"

[@michaelorton9887]

I love your videos

[@davids4610]

I would have expected bigger capacitors with that gigantic transformer.

[@hankalspach1]

Haha… Pittsburgh, Tony?

[@xraytonyb]

Watever gave yinz that idea?

[@hankalspach1]

@@xraytonyb My son lived near Frick Park while working at Disney Research at Carnegie Mellon. I was treated to the dialect, the "Pittsburgh Left", and plenty of great beer and food. Love that town.

[@analoglooney]

Jeez Tony, you're a glutton for punishment. Good luck buddy, I'm sure you'll have it working like new. This era of Marantz gear always looked dated construction wise even in it's day to me and was always hard to service.

[@HipocratesAG]

I love it!

[@aposhanski]

Asmr version of Tony)

[@chromasonictv6369]

Hello Tony How do you remmember where the wires go? I have learned alot from you being an old man and still working on this stuff.

[@Parkhill57]

He says he normally takes a lot of photos. Even still, it's exciting video when he makes a mistake, ha.

[@xraytonyb]

Many photographs and notes ;)

[@Parkhill57]

Looks like its from East Palestine after the derail...

[@linjia9539]

I'm not used to not saying a word all of a sudden.🤣🤣🤣

[@mitkothemacedonian]

Yep, raw footage is ok, but not the repetitive part where you undo the screws.

[@RapperBC]

No riverbank scene with a rusty wheelbarrow? No rabbit scene?! Highly disappointed!

[@Kevin-wj4ed]

You got your work cut out for you.

[@charlesslack8090]

Ok that is the first time I have ever heard Tony swear, and he did it twice! I guess that what I am going to ask is ok. What the Hell is ASMR?

[@xraytonyb]

A Silly Mime Routine

[@charlesslack8090]

@@xraytonyb silly me

[@kadosas]

Part 169: Where we will replace a resistor...

[@johnnytoobad7785]

Old method of "edited videos" is much better. (IMHO) The camera keep dropping in & out of focus as your hands move around and there's no talking. I really don't want to play "background music" while I watch since I might miss some important verbal detail.

[@xraytonyb]

I commented on that in the video. I think i figured out the focus hunting problem. We'll see in the next part.

[@diabolicalartificer]

20 minutes of footage of someone taking an amp apart? I make video's myself, I know how much effort & time goes into making YT videos, but sorry Tony, this doesn't make interesting viewing.

[@xraytonyb]

Read some of the other comments. If you yourself make videos, then you should appreciate the fact that someone is willing to make videos at all, considering the effort required, and at no cost to anyone who wishes to watch them.

[@diabolicalartificer]

@@xraytonyb My comment was meant as observation, not criticism, I apologise if I've caused offense. I agree, the editing is a pain. I'll give the no dialogue a try in my video's, I talk too much anyway.

[@jdmccorful]

Havin fun as usual;as well as learin! YeHaaaaa!!! Great. Always enjoy!