Replace Radiator Valve with Out Draining the System. Updated. Part 1.

[@nasa16816]

Sharing your years of knowledge to help people out who can't afford an engineer is very generous. Thank You.

[@bertbox69]

I consider myself a competent diy'er. My uncle who was a plumber taught me much and so has my mate in the trade. I used Marks ideas here and changed a TRV and lockshield valve no problems AND removed the old olive as suggested. These things are doable with the right tools, confidence and aptitude, I don't like the insinuation by many 'plumbers' that it shouldn't be touched or attempted by anyone other than them. It's just their money they are thinking of. As long as you are not a hamfisted halfwit and take your time and have the correct tools, you can do it. I've seen many tradespeople do piss poor jobs at £100 per hour, I personally don't trust them,the good ones are too few. Thanks Mark for taking the time to explain it thoroughly

[@ThoughtandMemory]

Just fitted a radiator following your video. Saved us £200 plus and everything works. Cheers

[@jonsmith8582]

Thanks for this video , just changed a faulty radiator valve after watching this and it worked out a treat !

[@bertiebinges200]

Thanks for the video. I had to change two valves after replacing an old downstairs radiator which is on a system with a combi boiler and my plumbing has never gone right before. This worked like a charm. Even to the extent that after allowing water to flow out of the existing valves, when i took the valve off no water came out at all. I had turned the boiler off (as the video advises) and all the other downstairs radiators off as well. The lack of water flowing from the pipes gave me the opportunity to remove the old olives and replace the nut Marvellous!

[@OfficeBoyBuilder]

This is an absolutely brilliant video! Super informative, clear and helpful. Thanks for taking the time to create and post (both) of these videos. I'm an avid DIY'er and love to have a go at things myself first, so this sort of video is exactly what KZbin was created for IMO. Thanks!

[@videouploaduser1]

Thankyou for this video, I’ve always struggled with TRV’s and fitting radiators. I just followed your guide and managed to add two TRV’s to my CH in 2 hours, I did it without draining the system too which I didn’t think was possible.

[@johnmofBristol3623]

Thanks Mark, This is the second video on this topic I've watched and yours is very clear on the steps and far more helpful as you are not confusing the story by trying to address Combi and gravity in the same video. I have found that the TRV is on the wrong end of the radiator and it has started making a right old racket! I will be trying it out on Saturday as my wife is away for the weekend giving me the chance to clear up if it goes bad!

[@rajan246]

Anxiety levels for a call back coming back down to manageable. Thank you very much. I'll contribute once I'm not running at a loss!

[@PatJuhNL]

Whilst looking at the thumbnail I thought the guy from the Hangover made a career change! Thanks for the tips on changing valves 👍🏻

[@jamieharrison7939]

Must be his twin

[@iffybanterben1351]

Huge thank you, really gave my the ability and confidence to change the valve on my radiator. Saved me alot of money on a call out and a plumber. Thanks again, really great video :)

[@darlingms]

Thanks! Your video gave me the confidence to replace a faulty TRV that wouldn’t shut off - the added bonus of knowing what problems might arise helped me be prepared but luckily it was a straight swap

[@markjohnstone1618]

Mark, you are brilliant. So generous with your tips and advice. I am about to embark upon changing a couple of TRVs and thought I was going to have to drain the entire system. This is brilliant advice. I've subscribed to your channel, so looking forward to more from you. Thank you

[@oldvlognewtricks]

Damn you, algorithm! Why didn’t you show me this video *yesterday*? Excellent details about locking upstairs radiators and supporting valves. Thank you.

[@colinthomas5462]

Excellent comprehensive tutorial, thanks very much, gave my confidence to change a radiator valve.

[@MrJimmy0114]

Best video covering this repair! Thanks for all the information

[@Hermitmaster]

Thanks very much for this video. I wouldn't have called a plumber for something simple like this as I'm comfortable with DIY, but I just needed tips for the details which I could have searched and pieced together for ages but this video had everything in one place. Will be buying you a pint via the toolbox fund. Cheers.

[@Harkendown]

Re tapered joint. I bought a shank of hemp 40 years ago which I’m still using. Never had a a leak at that joint. ( plenty elsewhere) PTFE should be regarded as a lubricant. It has no bulking out property. Thanks for the video.

[@richardwitherstone7396]

Ive been a plumbing and heating engineer for thirty years and I've earned a lot of money putting right and getting out of trouble people that have attempted DIY, things do seem easy until things go wrong, that's when i get a call, keep your videos coming sir, plenty more work for me!🤣👌🏻👍🏻

[@jimannie375t]

Many thanks, great video which covers everything I think I need to know and without boring music in the background.👍

[@lessnelgrove4131]

Great video Mark. Your approach worked perfectly for me - thank you. One thing some people might need to consider is where an adapter is used in a TRV (instead of a normal olive) to step down from 15mm to 10mm.

[@bobblack4048]

Thank you for a very interesting and informative video Mark. During the course of my life I've changed many radiator valves. I have always drained the system. This video has shown me something I would never have thought of. The use of PTFE tape on the threads was also a surprise. I knew the olive sealed the valve but I have always taped the thread when reconnecting the valve. I am 71 years old and still learning. Thank you.

[@ojmbvids]

9:08 - I can't remember where/why I was told to use PTFE on the threads, and have often wondered what's the point for exactly the reasons you gave. I just kept doing it anyway because that's what I've always done - glad you've put my mind at ease and I can now stop doing it! I guess it's the people you learn from knowing it's essential in some cases (e.g, outside taps) and getting in to the habit of doing it on everything without thinking about why.

[@Dtp2296]

PTFE on threads is not for sealing, teflon is the most lubricating substance there is. You put it on threads so you can tighten the nut up more past the point friction would allow you too, therfore being able to tighten the joint further and easier which in turn compresses the olive more and creates a better seal. No jointing compound needed then. This guy may have been in the trade a long time but this is the reason plumbers and mechanical engineers use ptfe on threads, plus i've never used ptfe tape to seal anything

[@JasperJanssen]

@@Dtp2296 never used Teflon tape to seal? Not a gas fitter, then.

[@adamsmith6594]

@@JasperJanssen and neither will you be if this governmnent carries on much more. None of you will be.

[@Steve-rv1ql]

Really excellent videos, changed my first TRV today having run around town finding some rubber bungs (Toolstation) to isolate my loft tank and depressurise the system. Following the process Mark described, a piece of cake, done in under an hour. Now have 5 more to do, total cost inc valves to complete everything just over £100, absolute bargain compared with a plumber (if you can find one). Thanks Mark, really helpful.

[@frenchfrench4514]

Yep, Marks literally robbing himself. These Internet "plumbers" and other tradesmen giving away experience for free never fails to amaze me.

[@johnmckay1423]

@@frenchfrench4514 The main reason I've learned to do quite a lot of these basic jobs myself is that all the good tradesmen are very busy and I'd have to wait months. Even if it's a job that will take me a whole day (find out how to do it, visit the shops to find the bits I need and then spend hours methodically working through it, it's probably a one hour job for a professional and I find they're often not interested - they'd much rather take on bigger jobs so that they spend less time doing quotes, driving around from job to job and billing 5 different people. No complaints, they've got to make a living, but I'm not necessarily taking work away from anyone.

[@normanboyes4983]

@@frenchfrench4514 The truth is - if you costed the homeowners time on a similar basis to a plumber. The time spent trying to find a plumber or getting one to respond and turn up, the homeowner taking time off work to be at the property then it is no wonder that for small jobs it is expedient to DIY (if you have the house). To be blunt - plumbers do not want this sort of work anyway - there are bigger fish to fry.

[@BuzzBurst-MR-X]

Brilliant clip much clear & detailed video so other on here are trash with no detail thank you for this is what I’ve been looking for just need some jointing compound 😊

[@rrrabit1342]

Wow, what a comprehensive demonstration! I have done DIY for years and changed rads etc. But never used this method. Didn't know it was ok to use the same olive on the pipe and I have always used PTFE tape on the nut threads! So definitely learned something today. Thanks for this, top job Mark.

[@barryjohnson9114]

Worked like a dream. Worked well on a lower floor radiator. Thanks for all your helpful advice.

[@LAUGHINGMAN91]

Watching this video exactly because we can't afford to get a man out for 1 radiator. Not worth the time of anyone involved. Ours is actually a towel rail radiator so things are a bit different, but there's a lot to carry over from this vid. Top info, thanks!

[@andreaslenahan4416]

I successfully changed out 3 radiator valves for thermostatic valves based on your earlier video. Excellent videos! Thank you for producing them with brilliant detail and confidence inspiring tone!

[@ironmantooltime]

I've used this approach for all my smart valves. 👍

[@thearodriguez5251]

Clever guy so thoughtful & innovative!

[@pauldowninguk]

When you use an adjustable wrench, you should push into the sliding jaw. That way you are supporting/compressing the jaws rather than trying to pull them apart. You were tightening/loosening by pulling away from the slider etc. One of the first things i was taught in my early plumbing days.... Still a good video!

[@raymonddimech5883]

Great video a bit long winded but I would rather that than rush a job especially anything to do with central heating. Keep up the good work that you’re doing I am a DIY and cannot afford to keep calling out engineers to do jobs like this as I am also an OAP and have lots of time on my hands, so I would always have a go at anything first myself after watching a video just like thiis. Keep up the good work and thank you.

[@acook9378]

This is the best Video I've seen on this subject!

[@stevecrook8994]

Great video, told me exactly what I needed to know, job completed with no issues

[@Icon-renovations]

Great video first time changing a valve saved me money and I got the job done easy enough. Well done 👍

[@mohammedzaman9189]

very big help for pepol who can not afford a plumber these days.

[@chrisallen8926]

Mark, great video, just done my valves without a hitch and very long title bleeding afterwards...just a thought, found an unused mastic spigot a perfect bung for the rad when the valve is pulled away, cut it with a 10mm tail once it was in and snug.....couldn't have done any of the rest of it without your help tho. Many thanks

[@pc090144]

Well done sir got me out of a tricky jam this vid did. thanks again

[@mrb6417]

Fantastic demonstration, simplified for any level DIYer, I have a 10mm pipe that is partially blocked with solder inside I cannot change it easily as it is cemented in the floor, any hints on how I can remove the solder please???

[@BasilTS]

I wish that all plumbers are as good as you .... very well done

[@hommer45]

Thanks for the video Mark.. I've fitted plenty of valves but felt I better have a refresher and good job I did,, there was a couple of things lets say slipped my mind,ha ,,So thanks again and great video

[@Brian.001]

An impressive head of hair, sir! Respect!

[@MichaelHamillton]

This is just fantastic! Thank you so much, it saved me a pretty penny.

[@theondebray]

I would add: to minimise draining, I would go round the whole house & shut off all rads at both ends first. Most of the water (and pressure) will stay in the rads, and its a good opportunity to check / lubricate all valves), plug off the top tank (or depressurise a sealed combi system); Also, I made my own tapered bungs to the size I want using a thin cardboard cone & filling it with silicone mastic - leave for a week till fully cured, then soak in water before rubbing off the cardboard. Always add 1L of corrosion inhibitor if you can, it acts as a lubricant apart from anything else. Nice vid, thanks.

[@rtyrtyrtyus]

I have done a radiator as a DIY. I shut off all radiators in the house at both ends. Then for the radiator I wanted to remove, I drained it at the radiator after scooping out as much loft tank water with a jug and shut off the mains fill with a towel to stop it filling the loft thank. Then I painted the radiator and put a TRV on. I did that to the loft tank to clean with a cloth and remove the scum water. There is a loft tank in my home. I then put inhibitor back in via the cleaning magnetic filter and refilled the system from the mains water in the loft tank. I also shut off the stop cock for peace of mind. Clean loft tank AND a new painted radiator and inhibitor.

[@theondebray]

@@rtyrtyrtyus Good job. 👍👍

[@LazerBrain11]

Great tutorial! Couple of suggestions, releasing the system pressure from the air release is time consuming and depending on the type of air release can be very difficult to catch the water. Much quicker & cleaner to drain the pressure from the boiler drain point. While you are there, if the boiler is above the rad you are working on, it's helpful to either close the boiler isolation valves or just close the boilers auto air vent. This prevents air ingress and better holds the water inside the system while your working. Very nice to see your use of jointing compound on the olive faces, many 'professional' plumbers use no jointing medium at all! 👍👍👍

[@MarkBallardLTD]

Agree with all you said. I would do it that way. Don't want people turning wrong valve as ever boiler is different. Thanks my friend 👍👍👍

[@adierob1]

The last thing you want to be touching are boiler isolation valves because they are never exercised the minute you shut them then open them the rubber o-ring inside splits and they start weeping from the spindles

[@sajeedfozdar7149]

@@adierob1 well said mate! stay the f away from boiler isolation

[@stephenmaskrey6527]

Great video I'm someone who dose the basics in my own home and would have drained the system, but your way is far better, thanks for sharing

[@nigelclark7360]

I always drain the system

[@karlbishop9670]

And this is the SHORT video???😯

[@Lacking_something]

Thanks for great videos. I've now replaced 2 rads, including changing the 4 valves/tails, all new nuts and olives. Did buy an olive puller as too scared to try hacksaw method! Do any of your videos cover new bsp valve into heated towel rail - unsure about whether/where to use ptfe tape/jointing compound.

[@theedge1420]

So Clear and Concise. Thanks a bunch Bud

[@TheWellington2006]

Another helpful video, I used a freeze pack to change a valve, which turned into a right mess as I needed to change the olive at the same time,hence the ice suddenly popped out and I had a nice waterfall. But watching this I can see the mistake I made with the pressure.

[@allservepropertymaintenance]

Hahaha, been there done that, felt like I was standing Under a waterfall, f only for 5 seconds before. Managed to stem the flow.

[@WeWereGoodOnce]

Great video, thanks. I had two valves to replace, one upstairs and one downstairs. I managed to do both following your advice, and I'm an absolute beginner.

[@zacsmith9820]

Thank you, this was a great tutorial and explained everything that I needed to know, all the little tips really helped. Thank you very much!

[@Ruben-ni7zq]

Great video. Exactly how I change my valves…👍 (keen DIY’er.) saves money on replacing inhibiter and in my case underfloor heating biocide which seems to be really expensive….

[@malbancroft1932]

followed your directions everything went great , a fine tutorial thankyou

[@lardenr123]

Great Video Mark, I have to replace a Bathroom towel radio, and this has given me the confidence to do this, as I have to change the valves as well.

[@MrAvant123]

Great vid, not replacing the olive is slightly risky though.

[@mrginga4044]

I do love the bungs saved me many a time from an air lock

[@imw4956]

Absolutly fantastic explanation, thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos you an absolute top heating engineer.

[@kad480]

Great vid and will help a lot of people. Just one thing i have to say only coz i found it funny. You said you rolled the carpet back. I dont think there was any carpet in the room coz there are no grippers on the edges. Also in one clip there is a unit on the floor with no carpet under it or any grippers there. 🥴

[@colinthomas5462]

Thanks for your very helpful tutorial.

[@madmaycon2531]

Excellent video..Thank you very much for sharing with us,,

[@AlisonMorris-bp4wx]

Helpful, relevant and clear. Exactly what I needed, thank you 🙂

[@rajshu6408]

Very clear and thorough video. Thankyou.

[@liammoffat7277]

What a lovely fellow. Great video, thanks for all the information

[@RjK-s5z]

Great video, showing all the details.

[@glyntutt1586]

Always useful to put full bore valves on the main supplies so that creating air locks thus no drain down of system is easier. Good also once or twice a year to test such valves as they can corrode and fail over time. Great video.

[@JohnnyFontane528]

Glyn, glyn, glyn. Did you really just suggest full bore valves? On the main supplies??

[@glyntutt1586]

@@JohnnyFontane528 YES! On each floor I have a couple of valves on the flow and return of the heating circuit which enables me to isolate that floor (or zone) whilst I carry out the work. In much the same way, I also always install a 40mm waste pipe which is connected to the waste water system when I install a header tank or hot water/heat sore, it is all about making future maintenance easier, planning in advance and enabling drain downs or value replacements so much easier.

[@TranceElbow]

Thank you. I found this video really useful. As a keen DIYer, I have always drained down the whole system when changing valves. Your method is so much simpler, saves time, the risk of unwanted air locks (which I've had) and of course water. Q- Is it better to put the TRV on the flow side of the radiator?

[@peterlambie737]

Good to watch Mark, thank you. A- I have just replaced the 10 TRVs on my o-l-d system with Evohome wireless controlled valves and this showed me the difference in feeding from Flow and Return sides of the radiator. Feeding from the Return side causes the room temp to vary more than if the radiator is fed from the Flow side. I have not worked out why, possibly compensation devices on the new valve head. I have noticed that a few of the old valve heads have started to leak, they do operate more than a normal TRV. Guess what I will be doing when the weather warms up, if I don't follow your video first!

[@davidprice5707]

your explanations are brilliant thanks

[@tates11]

Thanks for a very informative video. Can you please clarify the purpose of the jointing compound / ptfe tape. I always believed that it's sole purpose was to help the mating threads slip, enabling a tighter joint with less effort and preventing galling. In the video you state that you only use it on the ends of the olive to help sealing and not on the threads.

[@Derek_Garnham]

Quite so, but I appreciate the effort to dissuade people from thinking that the threaded part is the sealing face of the fitting.

[@noelbourke5101]

Plumbers insurance jointing compound is

[@tates11]

@@Derek_Garnham How do you lubricate the threads to prevent galling? do you assemble them dry?

[@gasfitter78]

I sometime use a 15mm compression cap on the tails to stop the water

[@user-zm1nt4tq3v]

Thank you so much for this experience and understanding the process

[@worldofrandometry6912]

So it's okay to re-use the old olive when replacing compression joints? I didn't know that.

[@smithy3269]

A few points with this ... depending on the fitting the old olive that has already been compressed might not fit in your new fitting. You say without draining the system - if this was an downstairs radiator you would half drain the system as you know gravity 🤷🏻‍♂️. You don’t need any paste on a compression fitting, if it leaks you haven’t done it properly.

[@deanmorgan3253]

Any true plumber knows to paste compression joints, belt and braces comes to mind

[@ithayakumarchinnaswamy8072]

Hi Friend . It was a proper explanation and good for the beginner: Thanks

[@christopherdahle9985]

I am grateful for this information. I'm a DIYer who will probably attempt this repair myself, although I would rather not. I called several professionals first but here in the US, I am facing a 16 week wait. I've got a towel wrapped around the leaking valve and I have a barrier of chicken wire wrapped around that to keep the kitten and the puppy from trying to lap up the dripping water, which is green with anti-freeze...not healthy for the little animals!

[@skyrider29]

Thanks for that Mark, excellent informative video 👍

[@kevinhealey7470]

The pipe on which my TRV is fitted is fixed in concrete so it looks like I’m going to have to lift the radiator as you demonstrated in your video, I know you said if the radiator was short it might move the valve /pipe work at the other end as you lift, my rad is about 2m in length, won’t that be the same? Pipe work on the valve at the other end of the rad is also into the concrete floor.

[@pistopit7142]

Hi. So helpfull Thank You. I guess the pipes I have that go into radiators are very thin, they are around 5mm diamter. I am worried I will kink the pipe accidentally. Do you think it is still safe to attempt to drain the system on lockshield valve (as I do not have drain valve in a system)? My goal is to drain the system and refill it with cleanser to get rid of cold at the bottom of radiators.

[@rogerwilliams2902]

Excellent video, many thanks.

[@maximusvr46]

great vid! can you confirm please - I have a rad with the TRV on the return pipe. Is the pipe that heats up first the flow and should the TRV be connected to the flow as best practice? (combi system)

[@steveedwards4495]

Brilliant stuff. Was just writing, how do you pull the pipe out so far to get the tap off, as ours are held by the floorboards. Then you answered it like you're psychic. Lol.

[@andyowens5494]

I just drop the radiator off the hanger and lay it down, rather than putting paper in the hole. I DO use PTFE tape, it makes it easier to tighten the nut and fit the olive; never had a leak either, but don't like putting anything inside heating or potable pipes. I also isolate all the rads before depressurising to minimise the amount I have to bleed off (also keeps the inhibitor concentration in the system).

[@homeistheearth]

This is the way we do it when we cant use or find the drain. I prefer drain, when you then take out the valve you suddenly have air suck in because some other radiator valve opens because you shut of the boiler and the room went cold.. blob blob blob and you sit there with a finger in each hole. The plug you make you can use a fitting, Danfoss valves fit a 3/4" endfitting when it's a half inch. Also here we most often have he inlet in the top, then you can drain in the return with the bucket, and only have to lower water a few inches. The vacuum advise is actually a very good one, it can save your "life" when doing this job and there suddenly is air drawn or a valve opens or your just impacient.

[@bizarreboom8791]

Liked and watched till the end! Helped a lot and gave some great tips, all changed and functioning again. Only issue I had was water coming back up the exit pipe. Didn't know how to stop this so used your kitchen roll trick👍

[@stevek4584]

If you use Oventrop TRV's you can use a tool - and change while heating fully on/operating (type in OV Demobloc) for demo

[@ianjones6849]

Great video, thanks! My TRV has been installed on the wrong side (should have been fitted on the flow side) so I need to swap the lockshield and TRV valves around. Would i have to drain the whole system down in my case or can I use your method in this vid? I have a combi boiler and the radiator is situated in the downstairs hall. Thanks, Ian

[@Jawbone88]

This man looks like stu price from the movie the hangover

[@MrSchoudhury2]

This guy looks like stu in hangover movies...paging Dr f*****t! 🤣😅

[@peterryan7827]

Great video,For me though when doing this I normally replace the old olives as well I suppose i just feel happier, thanks for this one,.

[@cadmancarpenter668]

V

[@truthwillout7909]

Very informative video, subscribed to your channel, many thanks

[@pokepals4840]

Thank you so much! Really helped me out 👍

[@dentann1686]

Really informative. Thank you

[@michaels2125]

Excellent tutorial 👌🏿 👍🏿

[@jimrumsby12]

i tend to find so many times that the new fitting wont fit the position of the old olive and its so much fun when it doesnt,don t panic Mr Mannering ,then its a quick freeze and off with the old olive on with the new ptfe and refit .

[@ldivagas6782]

Q. Recently had my TVRs changed but they don't work not switching of the heat (I think they never changed the thermostat to go with them) the plumber seems to think the system needs flushing for them to work but I've recently flushed the radiators with the help of your excellent video on flushing,and tried the TVRs still no luck but raditors are all warm now, would he be right or does the thermostat need changing?

[@roscomrc]

Hi, it's it the same process to change both valves at the same time? As I am putting in a towel rad and need to remove the old valves and rad. Or will I need to drane the system to do this?

[@marknhopgood]

Should be the same process. Only difference, I would be tempted to shut the valves on all the other radiators in the loop to save on the amount of water you have to drain.

[@al-syed3469]

thanks easy and clear instruction

[@scottyjzer3111]

if i wanted to replace the radiator and valves at the same time, can i follow the same steps of bleeding the pressure closing the valves and then remove the radiator with valves attached keeping the water inside the rad?

[@robru]

Hi Mark, very useful and I’ve learnt a lot. Is there any chance you could a couple of videos on how to deal with a cold radiator (even if you’ve bled all the air out),balancing, and dealing with a snapped bleed screw. I’ve spent hours with these problems in the past!

[@tonyclough9844]

Robru shut all your rads off except the one thats cold Then fire up the boiler it should heat up the rad

[@johnmckay1423]

If it's old or if you haven't had enough inhibitor in your system, your radiator could be full of gunk - especially if it's at a low point in the system. In that case (drain and then) remove the radiator, take it outside and use a hose to force water through until it runs clear. Alternatively, buy a new radiator. Refit and try again 🤞

[@robru]

@@johnmckay1423 that’s good to know. Many thanks John!

[@robru]

@@tonyclough9844 thanks Tony