Marking and Cutting Pro Tips

[@xXTMoney27Xx]

I have been working in the construction field for about 3 years now and I just wanted to say thank you, my boss has noticed a moderate improvement with my work and understand thanks to watching your videos. You are very well spoken and very easy to understand. You would have made an excellent teacher. I am going to try to watch all of your videos. Out of all the videos I watch on KZbin to expand my construction knowledge, your videos are by far the best I have found for me. So again, thank you 😀

[@michaelblanton9167]

Your watching the right videos young man. I've been at this as a journeyman for 18 years and I can tell you that this man is an expert. You are on the right track.

[@nonplayablecharacter4815]

Michael Blanton not if he’s watching vox

[@horseshoeshandgrenades5384]

Agreed. He has helped me out a great deal with the "green behind the ears stuff" when I was getting started

[@jonnierodriguez2267]

100% Agree

[@uuuultra]

My advice: Measure 4 times cut once 😄

[@TheBladeSickness]

When using a square, you can place your pencil on the apex of your mark. Then bring the square up to the pencil. By doing this, you account for the actual thickness of the pencil lead. That way your line isnt off because of the thickness of the pencil/lead against the square.

[@scottiver]

Yep, this is especially true late in the day when the square itself causes a shadow to fall right where you want to mark the line making it hard to see where to start your line.

[@rugrt1]

Scottiver I

[@RJMx-zz8nq]

Great tip. Thanks for sharing.

[@edwardmarshall2035]

Good point, but even as mainly a plumber for most of my life, I've marked and cut so much lumber I account for the lead thickness (even with carpenter pencils or sharpies) without thinking about it. Don't even use a square. I just use my torpedo level as it's always on me. Of course it's usually backing and rough work is fine in that application.

[@jlitral]

TheBladeSickness works great with scribing layouts too

[@DanteYewToob]

For marking accuracy, my old boss had a neat, fast system for us. When you make your line, a simple small 'X' on the line in the middle, means 'cut the line', and a simple '>' on the side meant cut up to the line, and also denoted what side to cut on. So you would mark >| like that, and cut up to the line, cutting away the > mark. A great simple tip, I still use to this day for small wood projects. Hope that helps anyone.

[@scottbraun6484]

I know a guy who uses sort of a check mark. I don't know his system specifically but the short leg if the check indicates keep it take.

[@inthebriarpatch]

This is excellent. Acquired for use!!

[@billfromgermany]

Thanks for the tip. Amazing how such simple ideas can be so effective!

[@schrinky90]

Use to use the crows foot as the indicator, the side that is at a bigger angle from the 90 is the cut side. So many different ways to do the same thing!

[@bryanmilne]

Nice! 👍

[@Pete.Ty1]

Best thing about carpenters pencil, it stays where it’s put. You don’t have to climb back down the ladder to retrieve it after it’s rolled off the roof.

[@derder517]

pete T. That's what I was waiting to hear!

[@robertthomas4329]

pete T. Unless it just falls

[@paulsawczyc5019]

I will betcha the ones made in China will slide off the roof.

[@gentbar7296]

thats the idea plus the else

[@markstansbury6795]

LOljustno

[@tMatt5M]

I just love the vocabulary that is used on this channel.

[@jamief7079]

tMattLZ kerf

[@ismu34]

and he doesn't trim the video every 5 seconds

[@JimTom.]

Robert Howell nothing wrong with a "shit" here and there, or an F bomb

[@littleshopofsawdust1157]

Agreed. Scott is a plain speaking person who is also eloquent. Wonderful combination. I certainly admire that.

[@tMatt5M]

@JimmY it's a lazy, crude and dumb way of communicating.

[@wickedcoolname5756]

I stopped using carpenter pencils years ago. I like using those big, fat pencils they give kids in kindergarten. They're about two or two and a half bigger in circumstance than a standard number two pencil and easier to sharpen than a carpenter pencil. I keep a cheap, plastic, kid's sharpener in my nail bag. By the way, I've been building and Remodeling fir about thirty years and I have to say that your videos are spot on. Most carpentry videos on the interwebs are nonsense. You are very eliquently telling people how the trade really is. Nice job, sir.

[@blacktoothgrin5830]

Wicked Coolname funny thought i been rough framing 20+ and just only last week shopping with my daughter for school i seen those big frickin pencils and thought they would be kinda cool to try and sure nuff i went back and sold em out ..if they only made them just a lil shorter they wouldnt be so prone to snaging on every frickin thing..LOL..good lookin out!!

[@_SimpleSam]

Use your belt sander and put some flat edges on the outside, and it won't roll as badly. You can also buy compressed graphite sticks (usually used for art), which have the advantage of being able to be shaped into exactly what you need and they are square so they don't roll at all. Better, you can sharpen them to one edge and virtually eliminate the gap against your straight edge.

[@RagoFam]

@@_SimpleSam You can get the triangle kind in fat -- "MY FIRST TRI-WRITE" Ticonderoga pencils -- so it won't roll and you can show off your fatherhood pride by keeping the loud yellow elementary school color. (Also saving your fingers from the belt sander, maybe? Hehe) Available both with and without an eraser.

[@jimdavis1566]

I wouldn't let anyone I know near my eye with a carpenter's pencil. But I'd let you, and I don't know you. That's how confident you sound.

[@davidjohnston1971]

I was taught, especially when working with a crew, make a straight line mark at your length, throw your tail, or apex mark in the direction of the off fall. You still have the apex for accuracy, and know which side of the line it to be cut. This is also helpful working alone, marking a number of pieces, then cutting after all pieces are marked up. There is no mistaking which side is the off fall. We also made it a practice at the start of the day to calibrate tape measures. It's easy enough for the tab on a tape to get bent, pulling tapes side by side to check for accuracy can make a lot of difference. One person up pulling measurements, and calling down to a sawyer, a 1/16- 1/8" difference in calibration, makes for a good fit or a sloppy one.

[@brandong.1857]

Some tape measures are off an inch on 25 feet, varies by brand. So important to check them side by side, like you said.

[@jamescooley7849]

I've been doing this for 30 years it's about time someone like yourself give the new guys in the trade the little tricks they need. 😊

[@MH3GL]

If you live near a local community college or trade school, I seriously urge and encourage you to apply as an instructor. You're an amazing wealth of information and experience, and the students would love you. Thank you for sharing with us.

[@johnhansen2187]

You realize that teachers pay sucks, and they usually have to be college graduates. Construction workers are paid right and usually can make a few dollars even when times are bad.

[@willmilburn4924]

Essential craftsman is a heck of a lot better than wrangler star when it comes to practical information, and a lot more entertaining too!

[@jewermank8536]

Will Milburn wranglerstar used to be more of a homestead type channel. EC is more of a tradesman. both different but i think both great. my 2 fav channels actually

[@jasonmrenfro]

Adam Kreutzer wranglerstar turn into a click bait channel. reviewing crap from amazon c'mon. I unsubbed a while back.

[@davidervin7345]

Why keep dissing another channel? Those who watch W/S must like something. Backtalking others usually reflects badly on the talker and won't help anyone. Address your complaints to the one that can fix the problem.

[@JChamberlin]

I don't understand the need to slander Wranglerstar. If you don't care for his videos, don't watch them.

[@davidlong9191]

david ervin amen

[@itdmorales]

THIS, is the essence of craftsmanship. Explaining the fundamentals makes me a believer of true craftsmanship.

[@chrisclement3706]

"It's all about the fundamentals" -H Hill

[@stoutlager6325]

Further to scribing a line with a utility knife for accuracy, always place your knife on the mark first and bring the square up against it. That way you know you're right on when you scribe the full line. This also works great if you're cutting a tenon or something that needs a scribe on multiple faces of the board. Place knife at end of existing line right on the corner of the wood, butt up the square against it, scribe the new side.

[@jerrylittle8922]

Stout Lager 👍

[@briansamaniego-howard1806]

Never subscribed so fast. I enjoy people who teach a craft they're passionate about, knowledgeable of, and experienced through and through. Thank you

[@paul44235]

the importance of two craftsmen working together understanding each other makes all the difference in the world.

[@darrenmasom8702]

I'm a joiner/ finishing carpenter/ kitchen installer. This is all very true advice.

[@robertjacobs5419]

Dad used to always say "I've cut this board three times and it's still too short"

[@Mainbusfail]

Your dad sounds like an awesome dad

[@genesis204]

That’s faulty towers I think

[@sally6457]

That's due to those elastic tape measures. I've experienced the same problem many times, it can't possibly be anything I do wrong, I've been able to count since the age of 5???? 🤔

[@billbradleymusic]

Lol

[@caseymiles8493]

I've picked this one up from my father in law. Here's another one for you: "Ah, you do good work! Just not enough of it."

[@jeffcourtney8101]

I'm 48 years old and have worked in or around construction industry my entire life. Your videos should be required material for every school shop class. Fundamentals like this are keys to success.

[@ColtonBlumhagen]

Boss: "Why is there a dull carpenter's pencil in the First Aid kit?" Worker: "I don't think you wanna know the answer to that question boss."

[@JoeyandTheNoShows]

Colton Blumhagen hahahahahahaha

[@mra95662]

Actually in over 30 years on the job, I've never heard the dull pencil trick. I used a wet piece of paper to dab out a speck in the eye. Learned early on as an apprentice by a journeyman that asked me to perform the procedure.

[@thalivenom4972]

if youre a nurse, the answer is, oh great some asshole has my thermometer. hopefully, if youre a framer, its different

[@brut9530]

I received a piece of rusted metal right into the eye. From prying old nails from a wall. It literally stuck to my eye ball. My college came over and removed it with ease using his pencil. Great trick

[@TheRepublicOfJohn]

I learned the carpenter's pencil trick from this video and used it once on myself. Everyone on my crew laughed at me but I was sure glad I knew it!

[@longsincelost6284]

This is the first time in any media format that I've seen someone use the phrase 'Sine Qua Non' without stopping to explain to the Audience what it means. I Doff my Proverbial Hat to you, Sir! You and Yours run one fine Channel, we need more like you.

[@TheLawnCareNut]

Thank you for making these videos. Thank you.

[@seankhan1157]

I feel the same way man dang he is such an amazing person you can tell he has not one hate for anyone

[@jayfrancis7731]

Thank you for writing this comment. Thank you.

[@treyevan8914]

Instablaster.

[@thinkingprole1]

As an amateur, hobbyest wood worker I really appreciate a video like this. It's like being in class with an amazing teacher, who's in my backyard giving advice while you work. There's a least one piece in my house which would have benefited from this video.

[@bradk3670]

Carpenter pencil is 1/4" x 1/2". Good for spacing boards like decking or fencing

[@jasonkraus2831]

We communicate about where to run the saw vs. your line with an X next to the mark. An X to the left means run the saw to the left, right means to the right, and centered (usually in the V of your Sheep's Foot) means run it center. We almost never cut across the center of a mark, just never seems to work that way. Truly enjoy your videos - keep it up.

[@joelschanbacher]

Nice video! I thought you would point out the scribe included on most combination squares, since you had one in your hand. Sure it's not AS accurate as a razor, but it's usually a fine enough mark for most finish work and it's already in your hand.

[@BillLowenburg]

Scott, I have made every possible marking and cutting error you described - and more. Fortunately, I’m not a professional and only do my own projects as a retirement hobby. And my tolerance level for my own incompetence is pretty high. Years ago, when traveling up in Nova Scotia, I spent an afternoon with a folk artist who made the most interesting and quirky things, including furniture, out of wood and found materials. “I never measure anything,” he told me. “I just eye it up and if it looks good, knock it together.” His work was one-of-a-kind and every piece was unique. I took a lot of inspiration from that conversation and these days often begin building something with only a general idea, improvising as I go. (Of course, my projects aren’t too complex) I realize this approach would probably horrify a lot of guys who follow this channel, and, of course, it would never work in the professional world. But it sure is fun, and stuff usually turns out ok. Since I’m the only one who has to live with the results, it’s interesting to learn from the process as opposed to getting stressed about the outcome. Thanks for the videos, I’ve learned a lot!

[@jamesbreen7394]

I’ve just discovered you and I’ve been going back and watching all your basics videos like this and I’m learning a tremendous amount of stuff. Thank you.

[@cptsil90221]

Thank you a million times over for not only sharing knowledge, but wisdom too. I am about to build my wife my first big project, an enclosed garden. I feel much more confident now cutting all the material that will be required.

[@jamesrawlings8493]

After making the mark I'll put an X on the side where I want to take out the kerf. Helps if i get distracted between measuring and cutting.

[@user-zz8ln3uh5x]

...Let alone having someone else make the cuts. It's remarkable how much help I need remembering what I did a few seconds ago : )

[@52Ford]

If someone else is making the cut, I put an arrow on the side of the line to cut. X on off-cut if the two pieces are close to the same measurement.

[@craftor3fc]

instead of going the v when i mark my mark i usally put a tick where the mark is and than a line to where to bad peice is so i know that side is the bad one and the one with no marks on there is the good one

[@danoberste8146]

When I make my crows foot, I make the first mark more or less perpendicular to the tape, then the second mark, on the waste side, at a 20˚~ 30˚ angle. Makes it easy to tell which side of the apex to place the kerf.

[@Ymsetjenesta]

Im a nurse refurbishing a house. Even though a mainly watch your videos to learn capentry, I also apply your philosophy on efficiency and acceptable tolerance in my day job. Thank :)

[@bobbiemitch]

Good video. Back in the day, when calling down measurements, we would add light, exact or heavy. Light meant cut before the line, exact would mean cut on the line, and heavy would mean leave the line.

[@johncamp7679]

Robert Dye or an RCH

[@Stahlmankustomkarpentry]

That's the way I learned

[@larryarnemann7274]

How about give me the actual #?

[@151daze]

Larry Arnemann that’s too simple

[@jeffcanyafixiy]

👍👍 That was standard for us to.

[@thebigbird1389]

Thank you for making these video's.I appreciate the fact you discuss things that some of us were not taught, and may be embarrassed to ask.

[@Stempy]

Who dislikes this guy lol like who gets a notification for a new video and then is like this is crap. It's all golden material.

[@backdraft916]

Douglas Kok Not true. I have no desire, nor ability to do the craftsmanship shown on this channel, but it's one of my top three to watch.

[@TheAxio300]

The only video I don't like of his is the one on his boots. He makes a whole video on non safety toed boots. Which are essentially worthless.

[@edwardperez4266]

John Patrick where there is good there is always evil 😈

[@vote4pedro7]

I think the KZbin algorithm automatically places dislikes!

[@TheKajunkat]

one of the best markers for fine lines you used in the final shot, the chisel. the single bevel rides right up to the square and makes a very fine line if you drag the cutting edge down the line. if you need a bolder line use the corner of the edge. it digs deeper and wider. great content, really enjoy your videos.

[@jasonfryer7002]

A Carpenters ✏️‼️....yes is flat so it doesn't roll,.and the eyeball trick was just GOD LEVEL❕...but I did not hear....About the pencil being exactly 1/4" thick and used to get perfect separation of boards while making a deck...It Is also exactly A 1/2" wide and exactly 6" long ( new and unsharpened)....simply having one around for measurements is perfect unto itself.....I certainly do This was a great vid 🎩s off ‼️

[@codymyers1956]

Keep it up big guy. This is my 2nd year in construction and my first 6 months of Contracting my own jobs on the side. You've taught me more in 3 videos than I've learned with 10 or more contractors over the last couple years. You do a great job at teaching and explaining.

[@gregcollins3404]

I was amazed after I got involved with the world of Machining - where measurements are often down to a 1000th of an inch how much less trouble I had when doing simple carpentry where a 16th of an inch is usually as precise as is done.

[@bobfp910]

I am enjoying your videos. My father-in-law is 92 and a carpenter and boat builder for 70+ years. His father was an amazing craftsman and rode logs down rivers back in the day and a white medicine man during his youth in Minnesota. Keep up the great videos. Another good reason to use a carpenters (flat) pencil is if dropped won’t roll off a roof.

[@talshaharfamily]

Excellent professional videos Sir, Great work and thank you for showing how tradesmen CAN BE and ARE professionals just like doctors, accountants, etc. This professionalism has led me to be an energy auditor for a local government agency. Never give up in presenting yourself with candor and honor. The Lord will honor you and take you to so many places!!! Blessings!!

[@bradford5089]

Excellent video! Two points from the field: (1) When I make my crow's foot, I try to always put another little line through the mark on the waste side, so that the waste-side arm of the crow's foot is now an 'X'. That way I always know which side of the cut is the piece I need, and which side of my line I need to cut on. (2) There was a day when for some reason maybe ⅔ of my cuts were an inch short. Drove me nuts! I finally figured out that the sliding mechanism of my tape was catching rather than the hook itself. So a heads up: look at where you're hooked to make sure it's the hook on the end of the board, and not the sliding mechanism.

[@JohnSmith-ud9ex]

I would only add that checking the "toe" of the tape measure regularly is paramount. Such an easy thing to miss and it can make a big difference !

[@ILikeWafflz]

Happened to me a couple of times. Of course I found out when I was doing window trim.

[@keithklassen5320]

This is fine advice, but I think it should be articulated in a bit more detail for the beginners among us. The tip, or toe, of a measuring tape is riveted onto the tape. Those rivets have a little bit of slop in them, allowing the toe to move back and forth very slightly. This seems like a mistake, but it's actually a vital and carefully calculated thing! If the toe was solidly fixed to the tape, without this slop, then you'd get different readings depending on whether you had hooked your toe onto an edge, versus pushed your toe against a surface. The difference would be the thickness of the toe itself! The slop is meant to be the exact same distance as the toe is thick, to compensate for it. If the tape is poorly constructed, or if it has seen a lot of use, those rivets can become more sloppy than the manufacturer intended, and your accuracy will start to suffer. For most framing it won't matter a great deal, but every now and then it will matter a LOT, and you'd best know about it. Of course in finish work it's always important. You can check this by sliding the toe back and forth and estimating whether the slop is the same distance as the toe thickness, but that's not quite as accurate as measuring a known distance both by hooking the toe and also by pressing it into a surface, and then comparing the two measurements.

[@MadebyKourmoulis]

My dad and I were building a garage. We were doing rafters he was the cut man and kept screwing up the measurements we were telling him. We thought it was his old man eyesight until someone was standing next to him and saw that a rivet on the toe was loose and catching. Then he told us he was fired from a framing crew just after high school because of the exact same thing.

[@liamofthornhill]

That made me chuckle

[@gapster77]

This guy's knowledge is priceless, it's really good of him to share it. I am an Electrician and I find Sharpies are great for marking metal, but sometimes are a little too thick, a scribe is best, and a screw will do an excellent job of marking a line on metal surfaces ...in much the same way as he uses the utility knife on the timber. *Also I have heard that one of the best ways to help get something out of someone's eye is by using your tongue! As disgusting as this sounds I think it makes a lot of sense, the tongue can actually give you sensory feedback as you probe at the surface of the eyeball, and it's really soft and well lubricated :D I haven't seen this done mind, and if someone was to do it they should clean the eye with eyewash immediately. I've also heard humans carry more germs in their mouths than a domesticated dog!

[@McCreathBen]

Thanks for the videos! They take a subject most people don't think about and dive down to the nuance while still remaining useful. I love remembering a video's tip when I'm in the shop doing something.

[@blacksole161]

I have asked so many carpenters why they mark boards like they do, no one has explained it like you have. Thank you so much for explaining such a basic thing. I know understand why they do it like they do. Cheers mate....

[@VAC2]

Tell you what I have REALLY been loving the markers from Milwaukee. Same as a sharpie almost but has a very fine point like a pen. GREAT for metal work, esp metal studs!

[@RealLuckless]

Having a clear and consistent markup style on a site is so very key to a smoothly running workflow. Also never forget how important the difference between layout marking and cut markings are, and making sure everyone actually knows them... Once was on a site where someone took the time to pre-measure and mark out all the sill and header plates for stud locations and length cuts, and then sent 'the new guy' off to trim everything. There was a very awkward silence for a bit when the new guy asked what we needed so much 16" blocking pieces for on the project.

[@ILikeWafflz]

I use a carpenter pencil and a cheap .9 mm mechanical pencil. I got tired of dealing with the constant sharpening and short pencils, and the mechanical pencil is great for trim work.

[@smartwerker]

.9mm lead is sturdy too

[@taurusdragon5479]

I'm 65 years old now and you resurrected a memory from my very early youth. When I was about 6 or 7 years old, my grandfather was teaching me a few things about carpentry. A "V" mark somewhat resembles the wings of a flying bird... and I remember grandad telling me that I should always make my marks to resemble a "birdie"! O'course he said it in Ukrainian so it had a lyrical quality to the expression. Thanks for the stroll down memory lane! Michael (in Winnipeg, MB Canada)

[@Sathtana]

i'm 19, and watching these videos has taught me just as much in a few months of subscription as my grandpa taught me on certain projects.

[@Layarion]

i love all the little gotcha's and angles he covers.

[@pmcmva]

"Remove the carpenter's pencil from your own eye first...."? Typically excellent.

[@barbaraloos6504]

Thank you for all of your great insights. I am in the midst of a career change from printing to a handyman. I live north of you in Washington state. And I am about the same age as you. My father passed away and left me all of his tools that we built 2 houses with and 4 sailboats. He was a old school German "jack if all trades.you inspired me to carry on and follow my heart. Thank you!! Thank you!!

[@srjackson1611]

measure it with a mic, mark it with chalk, cut it with a torch. measure with a laser, mark it with paint, cut it with a dozer.

[@AngelPerez-nc8zv]

Sr. 15 years ago I meet a profesional just like u are and he is the one teach me all that stuff just the way u do stuff and i be live thats the right way thanks for ur videos brings back memories

[@marshallsimmons56]

How about this ,... I knew a guy who's wife told me a funny story about him talking in his sleep, ...he's in construction doing loft conversion, and new builds...he would say the days measurements that he'd done ....like a human down load,... So one time at a barbeque I said you should film him one night, she did ..he reeled off every measurement that he'd done that day...and he always says them between 2-4 a.m ,,. If only he could do it when he was awake !!

[@jamescooley7849]

My wife said who's 35 and three eights? I do it too.

[@ninjamunky]

I've watched many of your videos and this is probably my favorite. I am a young journeyman electrician and I started using the 2-line method to make marks for laying out holes in walls, panels, and even sometimes cutting conduit. This should be the standard method for measuring and marking used by all tradesman. I'm always looking for better tools and methods to perform my job. I've learned more than a few things watching your videos. Thank you and keep up the great work.

[@johngeise1806]

can you please make a video on bidding and estimating jobs. I always feel like I'm either to high or to low. thank you 👍

[@Browndogdiesel]

I watched this video months ago. Picked up maybe 10% of the wisdom this gentleman shared. Came back tonight to pick up some more tips n tricks after a challenging project. No doubt will be back again to learn more.

[@icepick987654]

You forgot to say the most important part about marking and cutting. 1. Think 3 times. 2. Measure twice. 3. Cut once. Three simple steps too help make all your marks and cuts right.

[@tyrannosaurusimperator]

Or the other method: measure once, cut twice, and rasp/plane/file to fit

[@shaunwill925]

If you want to learn, here is knowledge. I've only come across one other master of his craft to share in a way we learn fast. Keep watching. This mans knowledge keeps going.. And going...

[@biggest23]

My father would quietly let apprentices know how he felt about them making multiple passes with a pencil, by remarking with a deadpan demeanour....... "Don't bother cutting that son, just do that on the other side and then snap it off"

[@daleshewchuk3523]

I hope anyone who teaches building of anything watches this video.You sir,have 'nailed it'.Thank you for your thorough coverage of this critical subject.

[@elimurphy6212]

Another great and useful video thanks 😀

[@SchMasHed]

Phenomenal video. I would like to add a few things I feel you may have glossed over though. Just my thoughts on it of course, not the end all be all. When making cuts I always put on X on the cutoff side. It makes it easy to remember which side of the line I need to cut on if I get called away and have to come back. When you pick up a cutoff for blocking or backing or whatever, you know which side is NOT the factory edge. I also use the X to mark which side of the line the stud will sit when doing layout. Just cover the X with the stud and it will be on center. Don't forget that cripples, jacks or kings can always use a mark. Be it circles like some framers use or C J K written above the X. Also thank you for including razor knives as a marking tool. Really great for chisel work. Anyway, thank you for all the time and effort you put into your videos. They are amazing.

[@tommyarthur973]

Love your videos. Don't think I have ever hit the subscribe button so fast. Look forward to your window video. However if I could make a request, you said you used to do some concrete work, how would you ensure a flat surface on wide pours where a screed board couldn't get all the way across

[@SkeleTele]

I am surveyor who does fine woodworking as a hobby. I use blue and yellow mechanical engineering pencils, they work great. love your channel! and thank you!

[@mmccoy577]

A craftsman will mark it once. An Apprentice will mark it twice and a fool will just keep on marking it. An old Millwright told me that 40 years ago. I am not going to say how many times I had just marked a piece of steel.

[@IEMusic-il1ml]

Really good and experienced carpenters taught me back in 1981 to use the "arrow" mark like the video shows. That way you know/remember which side of that mark is correct, plus it's faster. Don't have to be perfect with the line, just the starting point/apex.

[@AdamHammel]

Granite plate and dial height indicator

[@bradley6386]

Not sure how you mark something twice ??

[@seachnasaigh]

I'm glad you took up this topic. I enjoy your show and learnt more than a few tricks! Maybe I can humbly add a couple. I don't use regular #2 pencils... When I go with a pencil it's usually a #6 artist's pencil. Makes a cleaner line. Not as clean as you've pointed out as with a razor knife, but good enough for a lot of work. For really rough cuts, I use a charcoal pencil, especially if I'm going to be putting on a semi transparent finish later. It doesn't cut into the wood at all, wipes right off, and is real visible. And a very good book I read from the 1890s called the Complete Woodworker. It argued always measure into the waste and always cut in the waste because your saw blade is almost always going to be thicker than your scribed line, unless you're using a dovetail or Japanese saw. You'll almost always lose 1/16 of an inch if your kerf is right on your scribe line. Not really important for framing but can be a disaster making furniture or trim. I have little tool called a carpenter's scribe. It's pretty old. In case someone hasn't seen one, it's about a 2in bock of wood planed quite squarely, with a not much tolerant hole cut right the way through the centre. We call that the rail or the slide. About 8in long and maybe an inch in width, though I've seen them with rails up to 18in. The block has a thumbscew to tighten it down and a wee blade on the opposite side for making the scribe cut. Now me, I've sharpened that blade right down. Not razor but close. Since you can slide that block in both directions, I drilled a hole in the far end of the rail just barely big enough for that #6 pencil to be crammed in, with the point turned 180 degrees from the blade point. Now I can use it to make either kind of scribe mark quickly without using a tape. Well, sometimes you have to use a tape but usually it's just calipers. Sorry for the long post but some of this is hard to describe without pictures. Oh... And the carpenter's pencil? I sharpen both ends... One to a blade and the other to a point. Same with the charcoal pencil. I like tools I can get more than one use from! Thanks again for some great tool vids! 😀

[@geekonomist]

One can achieve accuracy using a sharpie or even a paint brush. The trick is to use the proper part of the apex. The outer apex of the crow's foot (that is to say the outer point) is the least accurate part of the etch. The inside point formed by the intersection is the most accurate and the most readily correctible part of the etch. Thus, the best technique to making a crow's foot is to start the first diagonal mark from 1/8th to 1/4 inch away (say to the left) on the first diagonal etch. On this first line, somewhere along that etch, there lies the exact point - the exact distance- you are looking to isolate. The second mark of the crow's foot should therefore be made such that the interior angle formed have at its apex this exact point. If you are off, you can "climb" either diagonal with the third (or fourth, or fifth!) diagonal etch, using a pencil, a sharpie, a paint brush or a mop.

[@ChickenDinnerz]

Finally! Excellent joinery advice that isn't about showing off or expensive tools. Thank you.

[@jamescloutier11]

I'd love to hear his knowledge on bench vises.

[@mottoexquisito4416]

You, Sir, are awesome. just discovered your channel and i am a fan, not only for the obvious craftmanship, straightforward, uncut, clear and simple, applicable, realistic (these already separates you from most youtubers ) but also the spirit and overall philosophy you enbody. very inspiring. thank you for sharing and teaching us the most valuable things we should know. From Europe thanks again

[@Gealaiche]

"If you're person who made the line you will know what side of it to cut on"...............aah if only that were the case 🤪

[@maskandvaccinefreeandproud2110]

No kidding right? He needs to follow me for a day if he wants a good chuckle. Lol!

[@johnjones2341]

Sad but true....

[@RobcadRadDad]

Love this channel. This is the shop teacher I wish every kid could have these days.

[@allu50]

have you tried the pica dry pencils? here in Finland that's pretty much the only graphite marking tool i see on professionals (including me)

[@espenbirkeland4864]

More and more in Norway. It's my go to pencil.

[@davidervin7345]

Neat, never heard of them before. THANKS for the heads up. I''ll try them.

[@MrSkureklut]

allu50 I'm using the pica deep hole marker here in Norway, only problem with them is the soft lead, it won't hold a sharp tip for mutch more than one marking. That's the biggest drawback by far 🙃

[@archades54]

Staedtler Mars technico 780 leadholder pencils are also a good alternative if people can't find them.

[@keithklassen5320]

A coworker of mine here in Canada swears by them; he carries a little case of different leads and crayon - like rods, for marking any number of surfaces. His main complaint with it, tho, was that some of the leads wouldn't stay tight enough in the handle when sharpening, they'd twist and recede. But still worth it, he says.

[@Zcasey1932]

As a finish carpenter I was taught to make a crows foot with a small line and one long tail. The size of the small line indicates how accurate the cut needs to be (smaller = more accurate) and the tail tells you what side the measurement was pulled from.

[@mark.esposito]

Can you be my grandpa?

[@YoungHeartedSoul]

wow i am no where near a carpenter but love watching your videos. So profesional and just love the choice of words. Everything is explained thoroughly.

[@estevanjuarez9571]

Mr. E.C how's about a detailed video on making a staircase with understanding of the math on involved...please ?👍🏼👑🔨📐

[@riverrat1149]

www.swansontoolco.com/product/little-blue-book/ You can get one of these with the purchase of a 12" Swanson speed square.It does a good job explaining the math run and rise.Framers bible.

[@chrisfrate]

Those last two sentences are critical. Great point.

[@centinela4793]

Thanks for share your knowledge for the new generations. Good bless you.

[@tohopes]

9'11" was an inside measurement.

[@sleepy_143]

why bring politics into this? why?

[@JonathanMWeiss]

Chainsaw fuel can't melt steel studs!

[@randgate]

I laughed, why not :)

[@alpham777]

This was a good one lol

[@f.davidbush9093]

randgate a_

[@chaplainand1]

Thank you for your posts. One of the things I do when marking for a cut, I use the first mark to locate and the second to orient the side of the line to be cut or to use when setting intersecting material, such as a stud or rafter, etc. Many folks add an X, and a third line may be added to make an X. I so hear you about having "inch-itus". It is so easy to do, especially when viewing the tape upside down, for me. I noticed you used white pencil on dark material. A friend of mine suggests maintaining a wedge-sharpened stick of soapstone in his tool bag for marking dark material. For me, the most challenging part of woodworking is keeping track of the last tool used! Good for me that I don't depend on my memory for my livelihood any more. Last item - I am off work with a broken wrist from a vehicle accident. In the interim, I purchased a laser measure device. When I go back to work, I will be installing flat MDF case and base where elevations vary from one side of a doorway to the other. My hope is, when I return, is to use the laser-measure to catch all four measurements with one ladder climb, subtracting 1/4" reveal from said measure and write the measures on the drywall in the appropriate locations. They are easy to see, make note of, and then use to cut all four sides, and, if I'm accurate enough, the cuts needed for the header cut. We'll see. Blessings to you and yours.

[@johnosullivan675]

I use my belt sander to sharpen my pencils. Nothing beats it.

[@vincegonzalez2297]

This guy is the perfect dad/grandpa. Such a clear and concise way of teaching these skills.

[@matthewszostek1819]

ill have to break myself of the tiny mark habit. I feel like I'm being more exact but for most of the things I'm building but I'm just wasting time. I draw and write like that too...tiny and precise. its obscesive. lol as always thank for the old salt insight.

[@BigBear--]

AvE and This man are both humanities treasures. Thank you for the hard earned knowledge.

[@douglasthompson2740]

Good topic but it seems you left out a few necessary markers. Sharpies don't last out in the weather (case in point: I marked my box trusses out on the wall plates then got rained/wintered out for five months. They were pretty much completely faded.) for these a paint marker is the trick. When marking wet lumber, now I realize you are in that sunny Oregon climate and this is small potatoes but here where it rains 160" a year we often can only use an 'ink pencil'. Yes the mark will dilute but it often is the only thing that works for the short term. A Sharpie (and the Milwaukee brand seems to be no better or worse than a regular although much higher priced) will not mark wet wood or oily metal. Also when using a knife or scribe one needs to take very light passes so the grain doesn't deflect the cut, then repeat with more pressure. Same with an adjustable edge marker. Just some additional thoughts. Take care. Doug

[@jakkola08]

Douglas Thompson write in the rain my friend. Look it up

[@joelewis4372]

Man I wish I had a mentor like you when I started in woodwork. Thank you for keeping carpentry alive and making this videos.

[@thedevilinthecircuit1414]

"I measured and cut this board *three* times and it's STILL too short." Yep!

[@claymore9359]

As a very modest DIY-er, your videos have been invaluable to me. I can’t thank you enough!

[@Robert.E.Edmondson]

For those who need a gadget for everything there are now sharpeners for carpenter pencils. Gadget obsession can of course become an end in itself. I know a guy who has one of the best equipped shops in the area - almost every tool and gadget known to man - but he never builds anything. There is always another device he just must have before he can start. He is like a chef who refuses to cook a meal until every kitchen aid available is close at hand.

[@Robert.E.Edmondson]

He showed me a newly purchased, expensive set of frame and panel cutters for his shaper. They were in a specially fitted drawer, lovingly wrapped in oiled paper. "Big frame and panel job coming up?" I asked. "No," he replied, "But they sure ae nice to have!"

[@TMFXLLC]

One of the things I brought to carpentry from drafting and design layout, was putting my nib or pencil tip on to my mark, and then sliding the tool (speed square, t square, etc.) up to it. This maintains the relationship from the tool to the nib, so you never accidentally strike a line incorrectly. I teach this to all my new guys. I also remodel rather than new build, so even in framing I use a mechanical pencil, the children's 1.3mm lead mechanical pencil are always "sharp" but very difficult to break even on rough sawn lumber. Great videos, thanks so much for you technical/intellectual approach to the trades! Looking forward to your doors/windows install video.

[@marine50322]

if you're measuring and you have a guy cutting for you make sure he repeats the number back to you. I have had a lot of 7/8" turn into 7/16

[@darkknightmonk]

I solved that issue by writing or calling numbers using only 1/8ths. For example 1/4" is written as 2/ expressing 2/8ths, 1/2" is written as 4/ expressing 4/8ths, 3/4 is written as 6/ expressing 6/8ths. for any 16th" it is the nearest 1/8th big. 7/16 is 3/8big written as 3/b, 9/16 is 4/8big written as 4/b ect. ect. Once you teach guys the system the number of boards cut wrong goes way down, the number of measurements that most guys can remember at once goes up, and production increases. All of this makes more money faster

[@robmoab3410]

Dark Knight Monk this is how everyone at my company calls out numbers and it is very efficent. Very few errors. Example: "76 and 5 strong" or "2 foot 4 and 4". Written down it would look like : 76 5/+ or 2' 4 4/" works great!

[@jestinloveday584]

The man who taught me how frame houses a long long time ago, also taught me to call out measurements breaking everything down in 16ths. Example: 15 and 1= 15 1/16 15 and 6= 15 3/8 and so on. Eliminating the 7/16 and 7/8 confusion. The problem is calling out like this and then teaching someone who doesn't use this system.

[@bubba2230]

Try a kid doing that to you over and over again when your stick framing on a scissorlift lol

[@waiawiki]

i agree, call outs should be in 16th's, not 8ths. "92 and 7" = 92 7/16th. less confusion, more accuracy. i'm bothered if i make a cut, or get a board, that's 1/16th off. that's tolerance for framing, but damn. just because it's acceptable doesn't make it good.

[@KnightRiderWRX]

I started rebuilding, re-framing my garage and making fancy 45 degree looking frames around the garage door openings. The wisdom you shared in previous vids gave me confidence in this and the fine line with a razor blade is pure genius! So simple but I never thought of it! Thanks for your vids!

[@94Zero]

Your garage is nice & big; how about a garage tour video?

[@BaruchDavidGreenman]

My Dad taught me, "measure twice, cut once." I think that was what you said in your parting shot. Keep it up. Love your videos.

[@wallacegrommet9343]

Home Depot carpenter pencils are awful, lead is always breaking at the completion of sharpening, weird wood carves poorly, frustrating time wasters. I go to the schools supply aisles in stores and look for kids mechanical pencils: cheap, multiple leads, and fatter gauge for break resistance. Little Mermaids were the best! I know! Cleaned out every RiteAid, Target, etc of those.

[@Thirst4livingwater]

😂😂

[@michaelblanton9167]

You gotta ask for the free ones at the pro desk. The ones they sell are for shit

[@claudyfocan731]

As someone who works as an industrial elektromechanic. We repair equipment, maintain it and make new machines and parts at the customer’s request. So a lot of welding, metalworking is involved. We use scratch needles, paint markers, or a piece of soapstone. Some people like to cut it off at a sharp angle so you can draw a very sharp line with them. I mainly use soapstone to mark the location of a tack, rough lines and markings. Paint marker is for writing and markings. As it will stay on there, even if it gets wet by coolant from a saw or a milling machine. Can also be used to color gearteeth to watch the wear pattern. Scratch needles are great for a thin, sharp line for a cut with an angle grinder, badsaw, cutoff saw etc. They even make some markers nowadays specially for welding that light up due to the intense UV-light that comes off the welding process.

[@routtookc8064]

Not quite the same but an old engine builder told me one time, "The shortest pencil, is longer than the longest memory."

[@GunnerMounts]

I actually don't understand lol

[@stevensapyak7971]

12.6.20. Or another way.......the dullest pencil mark is sharper than the sharpest memory™️

[@chevpowr]

I started writing a book and this was the first chapter. Anyone starting in construction needs to watch this video!