Convert your AC welding machine to DC for $50. Weld 7018 rods,more strength

[@eddiekawecki2510]

7018 runs best reverse polarity, that means electrode positive. You have it connected to run straight polarity. Best recheck your set up and polarities. One other thing, duty cycle means in your case 20% is rated at full amperage of the machine which is 225. You can run that much longer if you are only set at say 125 amps for 1/8" rod.

[@markp0177]

Thanks for the advice. I thought reverse meant electrode negative, I will have to switch it. Thanks.

[@kevinthorrington2131]

if I were you, I would switch your leads to make the ectrons flow electode positive.

[@OleStanman]

I just got done with my conversion on a Miller Thunderbolt and it works great. Noticed the difference when striking an arc on DC right away. I added the DC plugin sockets to the right side of the front panel. Plus on top and minus under it. I changed all the plugins to the same types. I added a block of aluminum under the bridge rectifier as a heat sink. Your video was a great guide and reference. Thanks.

[@chrisjarvis4449]

[ I added a block of aluminum under the bridge rectifier as a heat sink] yup it needs it

[@opeyshop]

E7018 electrode is used for SMAW. ... '70' tells that the the tensile strength of the resulted weld is 70000 psi. '1' means that the electrode can be used in all welding positions (horizontal, vertical, flat and overhead). '8' refers to the flux covering the electrode and '8' tells that it is a low hydrogen flux.

[@dodgeramsport01]

John Hunt! Well no shit!

[@notcharles]

Good one, thanks!

[@Jelder1276]

7018 is meant to run on dcep. May wanna switch your leads. It's will run a lot better and actually penetrate.

[@brunobastos5533]

i was thinking the same

[@bobbrown2003]

In addition, you need to add a big choke. Someone can probably help with a value but it will need to be wound from some big gauge wire.

[@vortexan9804]

Just look at a DC stick welder schematic. They use a big choke, like 100A+, which aren't cheap, to smooth out the DC. It simply goes in series with the + terminal. This works better than a capacitor which would discharge with a big pop as soon as the rod hits the grounded piece. A choke is simply wire wrapped around a laminated core..like a one-sided transformer.

[@stevelecain886]

you need a choke in series with your positive lead it will smooth out your weld, and also reverse your polarity.I've done it and it makes a huge difference.

[@stevelecain886]

@@pierre-yveschauvet5136 I did a lot of trial and error, and the best results I had was gutting an old microwave xfmr and winding # 6 rubber coated welding lead around the core as many as I could fin it neatly and it calmed it right down. I forget what the actual measurement was now but it worked great and still does.

[@stevelecain886]

@@pierre-yveschauvet5136 Its 4 huge 300a diodes a suppressor circuit and of course the choke and I also have 2 computer cooling fans as well. the diodes form a full bridge rectifier and the beauty of this over the factory ac/dc welders is on those or most of them anyway when you go to DC you only have 1/2 the amp capacity because they use halfwave rectification this is also not as smooth and has less of a starting voltage. I know the lincoln 225 ac/dc only produces 125 a dc and those halfwave rectifier welder do not like burning 7018 rods, mine will melt them all day long.it works very well now for years.

[@stevelecain886]

@@pierre-yveschauvet5136 some welders use 2 diodes but you are still missing pulses, 4 diodes is more steady and true.suppressor circuit dampens the surge on the diodes., the intensity depends on what amperage you select on the dial.

[@345rvv]

@@stevelecain886 Hello, one question, do you use capacitors after the bridge rectifier ?? I am planning do the same, have a Lincon AC-180, and the open circuit voltage (without load) after rectifier is about 120 VCD ... would need capacitors for that "semi-high voltage", the voltaje during soldering acording manual is 24-27 V, but capacitors for example 50v, will explode with open circuit voltage....

[@toolman7540]

I have never seen ac run with so much spatter I have been welding for ever with that Lincoln machine and I run this machine all day for years without any problem

[@ryanoverton965]

Actually 7014 and 7018 are the same strength. The only thing that differs is the last number, which is the composition of the coating on the rod. Good video, though.

[@davidespiritu6759]

7014 is for pipe work, works great. Hobart has low hydrogen rods for AC. They work good.

[@wadepatton2433]

Just one time I got 7018AC's to burn nicely, and it was GREAT. If I can fix my crackerbox and DCify it. Then I'll burn 7018 from now on for the tractory stuff. Thanks!

[@slipshaft]

Is it just me or does it seem crazy to mount this thing outside the box? Why not open it and mount on the inside? Having that high amperage outside the box unshielded seems kind of crazy.

[@ludditeneaderthal]

Now finish the process. Get 4 dins 35 sockets (those twist lockers on "modern" welders), and a steel box big enough to cover your rectifier, and mount all 4 sockets without shorting. Short jumpers to your ac terminals from 2 sockets, same same from the DC to 2 sockets. Now 2 male dins pins on your welding leads. Mount the box on the face of the buzz box (covering all the wiring)... have a cold beer. Now you can just pop your leads in the appropriate sockets for dcep , dcen, or ac. It'll also let you adapt the old buzzer to scratch start tig if you're so inclined. Btw, that 20% duty cycle is at max amps, you get 100% out of a tombstone around 100 amps (or less, of course).

[@jasonmiller1499]

I did this modification using this diode. The diode has a heat sink built into it. Keep in mind this is not intended to be used for production work or more than a couple minutes at a time, I also use with ample break times in between striking up. Never had a heat issue or a blown diode. I did make a choke for it. I used #4 gage wire wrapped around 205mm x5 ferrite rods, bundled together and wrapped with wire from end to end. I made my own copper lugs and mounted everything inside the box. I also installed quick disconnects for both the AC side and DC side on the front panel. It works very well. 7018s fry like bacon.

[@colinward1581]

Jason Miller Can you elaborate a little more on the choke you built? Where did you source your ferrite rods? I'm having trouble visualizing "bundled together and wrapped with wire from end to end" got a pic or a drawing, or better yet a youtube video ;p?

[@cmsracing]

Hi! Could you explain you're choke a little better so I could build one too? Thanks! chris

[@TomFromYoutube]

If you're gonna go to all that trouble why not just buy a dc machine...

[@cheath8705]

@@TomFromKZbin - Exactly! But tinkering is fun.

[@robertneighbors4091]

Jason, how many turns of #4 gauge wire on your choke ? My 1966 vintage Lincoln Idealarc already has a switch for reverse DC. Unfortunately I just got hit with a bad bank of diodes - - 1 out of the 4 banks, must jerry-rig a new full wave bridge rectifier since Lincoln stopped making a replacement part, either take a chance on this chinese model this guy is recommending which now costs $88 - - or buy 4 huge Vishay Stud Diodes and "roll my own" - - - - - possibly more reliable than Chinese, but I'll need alum. heatsink and thermal compound. Amazon turns their back on you if this Chinese one burns out and says you must deal with seller to get return/refund (in China of course). Study the insides of my '66 it appears I already have one large cap and also a choke. Any suggestions ?

[@JesseWright68]

7018AC rods work great as long as they have been in a rod oven. If they're old/damp, then they aren't worth a crap.

[@eddiekawecki2510]

Sometimes you got to do what you got to do and in the field soaking wet you have to ground out the rod until steaming hot and dry and go for it. Not on critical welds but non critical get r done welds. Never had one come apart in over 40 years on heavy equip.

[@chrisalford3364]

My mom threw out a deluxe toaster oven. I intend to use it as a rod oven. Question do you think it will work well?

[@marioserra4383]

I think is better to install the rectifier inside the machine, is safe and avoid accidental touch the terminal on the rectifier unit, good job

[@mr.commonsense]

This was meant to be a tutorial video as an example, but I see what you mean. He just made it easy to understand and visible

[@ddiablolll]

Diodes will make the wave into sawtooth DC(bad). Add 2 banks of capacitors after the diodes and youll get ripley DC(good). Add an inductor/chock/voltage regulator after the capacitors and youll get flat DC.

[@anotherdave5107]

wrong, just the diode bridge gives the bottom half of the sine wave folded up into the positive voltage plane. No " sawtooth " is made.

[@robertneighbors4091]

My 1966 vintage Lincoln Idealarc has a switch for reverse DC. Unfortunately I just got hit with a bad bank of diodes - - 1 out of the 4 banks, must jerry-rig a new full wave bridge rectifier since Lincoln stopped making a replacement part, either take a chance on this chinese model this guy is recommending which now costs $88 - - or buy 4 huge Vishay Stud Diodes and "roll my own" - - - - - possibly more reliable than Chinese. Amazon turns their back on you if this Chinese one burns out and says you must deal with seller to get return/refund (in China of course). Study the insides of my '66 it appears I already have one large cap and also a choke. Any suggestions ?

[@mtrltoolman]

I think you should turn up the current a little bit more (10~25 amps) because the rectifier bridge loses some of the power as a heat.

[@picknngrinn]

I really appreciate this! I've always just used 6011 with my buzz box but got a box of 7018 for nicer quality welds and have been totally frustrated with them. So reassuring to hear that it's not just my skill level! I'll be taking your advice and converting my machine to DC. Thanks again.

[@markp0177]

I should have done this years ago.

[@AJKandK]

markp0177 Mark, is that 20% duty cycle for settings less than full 225A setting? I remember running these pretty hard in school etc. without any meltdown s @ around half power settings. Never have actually read the specs on these buzz boxes. Thanks for posting.

[@markp0177]

Yes me too. The 7014 is a good strong rod but it is hard to run a vertical weave with a 7014

[@RobiSydney]

I'm looking at it, thinking hmmm... Put a BIG AL heat sink on it with a fan blowing across it. Thinking also about putting some big capacitors across it as well and smooth out the arc a bit. at 75amps duty cycle would be near 100% counting rod changes...

[@AJKandK]

RobiSydney I figured the duty Cycle should be around 100% in the "normally used" range. I used one a farmer buddy had to rebuild & modify his loader bucket. It had gotten flooded etc. & the fan didn't spin anymore. Ran alot of rod with it on that project & never had a meltdown. The older ones at least are tough little buggers. Have had a Miller Syncrowave 250 since the late '80's so DC & Tig are the norm now. Still have dad's buzzbox which is a great starter box for a hobby budget. And now with this mod only improves it to the next level. Not a worry wart by any stretch but you may want to throw a little cover over it. I'd personally take the time and mount it inside and maybe add a switching circuit for AC or DC selection.

[@markp0177]

I am not sure if the duty cycle is at full amperage or not. I always go easy on it. I would think that you would smell it if it was getting to hot.

[@coburnlowman]

We have one of the same machines at about 50 years old now. I'm 44 and the machine is a lot older than me. I agree that DC is the ticket but I've welded about everything with this antique including coat hangers without flux. It has glued together many truck beds , trailers , building trusses. It has gone weeks at a time doing way over the 20% duty cycle in hot southern summers. I do have a couple small DC machines that I like and yes they feel smoother but the old timer still lays a great bead with any rod its welded but gives off that chatter feel while doing so. Several times the cooling fan has been replaced and where the leads come out it has arced and burned the holes in the sheet metal bigger. Now that has been cut out and replaced with solid rubber.

[@michaelszczys8316]

I was maintenance at a shop in 80s that had lot of these old Lincoln’s. About the only thing that hurt them was letting the stick fall on a bench, short out, sit there until the wires to the transformer started smoking and causing attention. That and the fan motors getting clogged with paint overspray. They have transformers with allot of taps and a switch to pick which one. It was always exactly the same amount you put it on so you knew what to expect.

[@michaelszczys8316]

My first 10 years of welding I never stick welded on anything but an AC only machine. Even now when I stick weld just about anything I may start on DC but usually switch to AC

[@daddyosink4413]

These are bulletproof. I'm your age and I always remember my Dad's machine being there. Still have it, and still use it. I do love my little DC machine though, it travels much easier and gives me the option of 110V.

[@truthsmiles]

This is awesome! If I did this with my very similar welder, is there any reason to make it 'switchable' so I can go back to AC easily? Or is DC all I'll need for most common purposes?

[@markp0177]

No reason to make it switchable for this machine.

[@truthsmiles]

@@markp0177 I'm SO sorry I just saw this reply. Thank you very much! I asked for (and got) the diode for Christmas! Can't wait to install it :-)

[@davidduffield7553]

Now you could use this machine to TIG. A couple of quick connecters and you could keep it AC and use it on DC. With a TIG torch, a gas bottle and regulator, you now have a TIG machine.

[@danhard8440]

I was thinking the same lol

[@gurjindersingh199]

Might need to add several large capacitors and maybe a choke to make it smooth enough to run a tig setup. Idk if half wave DC is smooth enough for Tig I could be wrong tho

[@edwinj1224]

I've been using some AC 7018s. They don't run fantastic but if you run your amps high they seem to run alot better. I have an AC225

[@Cotton088]

Luckily, my 225 is factory AC/DC. I got it for cheap on Craigslist...

[@bozo28able]

Odd? I have never had a problem using 7018 with the AC flux.

[@daljames2545]

I did this and it didn't seem to change the performance. I was useing 7018 and wouldn't weld so well. I went and bought some. ac/dc6011 & ac/dc7018 and machine performed great. I have a miller trailblazer 301D which polarity can be changed to dc or ac so I know how a dc machine should perform with dc rods. Idk I hooked the diode up like the video said though

[@bob-the-Millwright]

I believe you are welding with straight polarity, switch the leads around. the only difference between regular 7018 and 7018 AC is the flux coating has a higher iron content that makes it easer to start and maintain the arc. 7018 is a reverse polarity rod.

[@michaelszczys8316]

Don’t know ifI ever tried reverse on 7018. I have to try and see

[@j.b.p6478]

Good job mark!....I have a welder just like that in my garage! I had bought it at a auction for $25....Guy told me that it kept blowing fuses....I dont know if there is any truth to that but i had put it my garage & that was 23 yrs ago...I still never looked at the thing, i have a bad habit of jumping to something else....hahaha I'm aiming to fix it if its possible!

[@michaelszczys8316]

Probably kept blowing the 30 amp electric dryer fuses that he had it hooked to. If you want it to keep going more that 30 seconds at a time you need 50s

[@johnr8476]

A little more work and you could have a switch so it could be switched back to AC when needed, like for pipe, or when you want to avoid arc blow.

[@RB01138]

That seems weird. I've never seen a pressure welder use AC.

[@davesstuff1599]

Make it DC and switch the leads for reverse DC, it'll open your eyes to arc welding you never knew. I have a Lincoln IdealArc and wouldn't trade it for anything.

[@robertneighbors4091]

My 1966 vintage Lincoln Idealarc has a switch for reverse DC. Unfortunately I just got hit with a bad bank of diodes - - 1 out of the 4 banks, must jerry-rig a new full wave bridge rectifier since Lincoln stopped making a replacement part, either take a chance on this chinese model this guy is recommending which now costs $88 - - or buy 4 huge Vishay Stud Diodes and "roll my own" - - - - - possibly more reliable than Chinese. Amazon turns their back on you if this Chinese one burns out and says you must deal with seller to get return/refund (in China of course).

[@jamiebuckley1769]

by hooking the stinger to negitive on the rectifier would that not be straight polarity? on my dc machines the stinger is alays on positive for reverse polarity and you get a much smoother arc.

[@UncleKennysPlace]

I did this years ago, with four huge diodes, plus several very large capacitors to smooth out the ripple.

[@ronaldmoore5187]

Did you make a utube of it. I would like to learn from you

[@notcharles]

"Large caps" and "High Voltage" are rather useless descriptors. What are the specs and where did you connect the VLC's to/between, etc.

[@zcs5434]

I've never had a problem welding 7018 rods with A/C...

[@chadknapper8774]

Same here buddy

[@digger105337]

I don't get it. Ive used 7018 with straight AC for 45 years on that same Lincoln 225 never had a problem. Quality welds are the skill of the person, not the voltage type of the welding machine.

[@GeneralAlex4]

I use 7018AC and it works great.

[@MrCoffeekelly]

idiot

[@KDVTTV]

Lol dude just needs to turn it up to about 125-150 with 7018 and he's set! Still sounding like shit too! After the conversion he's running that rod on like 90amps!

[@bobbyadwell4493]

I'VE used a Lincoln 225 AC for year's , but it is a 60s model , much better than the newer one's , never a problem 7018 stainless , would like a inverter tig , mig stick DC one day !!!!!

[@calvinhandley2373]

G Belanger I've used 7018 with mine as well, though I've used more 6011 then anything else. When I learned to weld, my instructor made us learn with 6011 first, explaining that when we went to work we would find most places used 6011, and we wouldn't be very employable if we couldn't weld with it. I did a similar conversion on an old copper transformer AC225 from the late 60's and the DC conversion was well worth the effort. These newer rectifiers seem to lose a lot less power than some of the older style rectifiers used in the AC/DC versions of these Welders.

[@RustyGlovebox]

That's a great tip and I will be sure to give this a try

[@jraddd3477]

why is everyone into dc so much, my 7018 with AC looks way better than that, but I have never welded with dc either lol

[@mr.commonsense]

Because DC is used for MMA and TIG, while AC is used for MIG

[@waynep343]

you might want to pickup a tube of permatex dielectric grease the small size is number 81150.. costs about 4 bucks.. take out your self tapping screws.. squeeze some dielectric grease out on the back of the diode bridge. and reinstall it.. its a thermal compound to allow better transfer of heat out of the diode bridge to what ever you have mounted it to. the white thermal transistor mounting compound that some computer or electronic stores may sell works even better. no use burning out the rectifiers. Part Number: 81150Part Number: 81150

[@cphank151]

81150 is exactly as you say. It is dielectric grease meant to insulate and therefore NOT conduct electricity. What you need here is thermally conductive grease, commonly known as heatsink grease. A quick google of permatex products does not reveal any heatsink grease in their product line. I doubt dielectric grease would be more effective in thermally bonding the rectifiers than ordinary axle grease.

[@obfuscated3090]

Computer builders use a wide variety of heat transfer compounds far superior to dielectric grease. though I love the stuff for keeping moisture out of vehicle electrical connections. Remember computers have thermal sensors so you can precisely monitor thermal paste effectiveness. www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-comparison,5108.html

[@cphank151]

Yes, many ways of bonding heatsinks to processors. For mounting the rectifiers spoken of here, thermal grease is probably bood although a properly sized pad would probably be better. Locating and buying such a pad may be a problem while the heatsink grease is pretty easy to find.

[@hondayamahafan]

Mark, this is an awesome project. You did a great job. Thank you for sharing it with us!

[@apacheone3643]

One it sounded like Shit Two I did not see the weld as you were jumping all over the place.

[@johnbergeson8180]

It sounded like he was welding on straight polarity. Which is backwards for 7018.

[@deanmurray4953]

I went to state auction got Lincoln ac/DC machine for 75 dollars works great (old mechanical swich) melts 7018 like butter

[@TS-yg3lv]

Great Job, Mark. Been watching your exploits for several years beginning with your solar panel making power to the sawmill and the Arc welder now. Love your channel.

[@Comm0ut]

Great idea! I have a Hobart T400 AC monster with a great arc and though AC is fine for most work with the correct rods I'll add DC to get more use from it. Rectifiers can be run in parallel for additional ampacity. When mounting to a metal surface ( heat sink preferred) some thermally conductive paste as used on CPU heat sinks is a very good idea.

[@kd5ozy]

you really need a big heatsink on that rectifier and some dielectric grease

[@TheChewy78]

you want DCEP. The current flows from the positive to the negative just like a truck battery. You have it ass backwards. DCEN is when Current flows from work piece/ground clamp into the electrode holder when it is DCEN/straight polarity. DCEP is when current flows from the POSITIVELY CHARGED electrode holder into the NEGATIVELY CHARGED work piece .

[@patrickhalseth1632]

Im no welder so I can't speak to the effectiveness of dcep vs dcen but DC electricity flows negative to positive. Electrons are negatively charged and they're the particles responsible for the transference of energy. Therefore, if you have a negative electrode (dcen) the electricity would flow from the electrode to the work. So says the Google, so say we all.

[@JodBronson]

Good Video !!! Also, look into some " Heat Sinks ", that would solved some of your Heat problems and will also pro-long your Welding time.

[@UpcomingJedi]

How much for the rectifier or would it be cheaper to simply get the ac/dc machine in the first place?

[@pbc1951]

No, we bought the AC machine years ago and it is paid for, Add the part for under $50, and keep on welding... Lot cheaper than a New welder today..... But if you have no welder, then just go buy the one you need.

[@flyinwalenda]

Hi, You should have mounted the rectifier inside the cabinet to be safe due to the exposed lugs.

[@MatthewRulla]

It's a welder. No need for your Safety Natzi comments here.

[@seanseoltoir]

With a welder, you already have exposed wires / connectors -- the ground clamp and electrode... Those exposed lugs are not a significant increase in risk... I'm not a professional welder, but over the last 50 years of occasional welding on the ranch and in the home shop, I've never been shocked from welding nor do I know anyone who has been shocked... From other endeavors, yeah, not not welding...

[@notcharles]

@@seanseoltoir Your post is what is known as anecdotal data. If such exposed connectors were safe enough, Lincoln wouldn't have bothered with teh expense and materials necessary to enclose the factory electronics. Exposed conductors like these are teh proverbial 'accident waiting to happen.' It may not be shocking, maybe it will simply start a fire, or . . .

[@perceive8159]

I might have missed it in the comments, In stead of crimping the big wire lugs on I fill them up with solder, 100% contact and no chance of movement if crimping is not done right. I,m going to put one on my big AC300amp Welder, Thanks for the vid,

[@RMS-gl6wl]

1 Unnecessary mod 2 you were always able to weld 7018's they are AC and DC+ electrodes.

[@benpadrick6861]

Exactly 😂😂😂

[@MasterDreadnought89]

Dc stick is ment to run EP not EN. EN is ment for tig. Great idea tho thinking about doing this to my tombstone welder.

[@tcmtech7515]

Fist off, Is that bridge rectifier even alive still being it had no heatsink beyond the paper thin sheet steel it was attached to?? @ ~100 amps that bridge rectifier is seeing ~ 1.5 - 2 volts forward drop which equates to 150 - 200 watts of heat it has to dissipate and more than double that at the full 225 amp setting. Something that brick package can not do on its own nor can the thin sheet steel of the welder case behind it take away either. Second, as others have pointed out, you need some sort of inductive choke (reactor in welding terms) to clean up the DC plus it makes a huge difference in the 'wetness' of the arc and how well or poorly it will both burn the weld puddle into the metal plus stabilize it as well. The capacitor is optional though but a smaller low ESR one of a few microfarads and 400+ VDC rating will help protect the rectifier from high voltage spikes. Third the 20% duty cycle is at the top 225 amp setting and gets proportionally higher down to around the 130 amp setting and below which for normal stick welding work could be considered 100% operator duty cycle operation since very few people who own such a machine ever do more than 6 - 7 minutes of actual arc time out of a 10 minute period due to having to change sticks and move around their work as they weld anything.

[@mdevidograndpacificlumbera1539]

Tcmtech great comments, thank you

[@billyowens460]

7018 should be welded with dcep that direct current electrode positive

[@sheepdoglogic]

If I use my Lincoln welder more that 2 times, I will be surprised. #6013 will work just find for a guy like me but hey... kool.

[@horseblinderson4747]

They have dinse connections as well on eBay. I have an AHP alpha stick $225 from Amazon and it has a hundred percent duty cycle at 115 amps so it'll burn 1/8 7018 Fleetwoods which will also run on AC all day. Mostly I weld 16ga square tubing so I also picked up a Hobart 205 AC because my inverter welder doesn't like certain rods. Honestly I can't believe they don't put dinse connectors on most welders.

[@markp0177]

Thanks for the informations

[@luciusirving5926]

Just use 7018 AC or 7016, the hot topic of welding. E60xx series electrodes suck. 7016 or the Excalibur rods will give you everything you need to satisfy your welding needs while fighting arc blow.

[@gregsz1ful]

I suppose that would be easy and cheap. I built an adaptor long while back with ideas from people in USENET. I built my own bridge out of single diodes on heat sink. I took off a 15/amp variac, the core and wound suitable windings, but FIRST. You need to cut one side of the whole core all the way through so it does not saturate. It seemed to work very well. Was using a Sears AC unit of bought then gave away. Need a some sort of band saw to cut core. The series inductor smoothes out the pulsating DC.

[@MONNIEHOLT]

20 percent at 225 amps, most of the time you run 90-120 amps, which allows longer welding time per 10 mins, you could weld non stop at lower amps, I have never ran my machine more than 120 amps and welded for hours on end no problem

[@jeremyrock7446]

Monnie Holt yeah there tough little welders.

[@mobilechief]

Me to

[@frankartieta4887]

I hope your test metal is a project A test coupon that size and of that material would surly cost . Yes I like this, I think there is much can be done to rectify AC welding machines Considering the availability of inexpensive fairly high amperage rectifiers

[@1rustytree]

Great video and idea, Mark! But there is no topping your sawmill build!!

[@js4512]

That so called 20 percent duty cycle is at full amperage! You can go 100 percent at 70-100 amps most likely, check your owners manual for full details... the lower the amps the higher the duty cycle!

[@beast7018]

Your polarity is backwards.

[@bigdave6447]

Achtung,acting, that machine is capable of thawing water pipe at the 75 Amp setting( thats' why the circle)!20% duty cycle is at 5he max 220 Amp setting!!

[@markanton2349]

You're missing the reactor to make it weld properly. Just rectifying the current for DC only does help though.

[@WillemExist]

Paint is not a good thermal conductor. Remove the paint before mounting the rectifier.

[@allmihi1]

to get an idea of 20% duty cycle, take a pen and start drawing a line about the speed you would be welding and go for 2 minutes. that my friend is a lot of welding. for the average shop guy you can do tons with that welder. there's a reason they have sold millions of them!!

[@johndough9187]

Note that the 2 minutes is based on a 10 minute interval. 2 minutes = 20% of 10 minutes. That means you then get to wait 8 minutes before you do your next 2 minutes, assuming 2 minute continuous welding.

[@beast7018]

That's at 225 amps.

[@eddiekawecki2510]

That is only true if you are at full amperage of the machine and welding non stop at 225amps. Buy the Lincoln bible, you would be surprised what knowledge can be learned from reading it then applying it.

[@magnepolden3344]

I see there are quite a few who think about doing the same. My advise will be to mount the rectifier to an aluminiumplate, to use heat transfer compound between them, and to use a proper tool to crimp cableshoes, as the one shown here classifies as toy.

[@gkess7106]

And solder them!

[@dolphincliffs8864]

@@gkess7106 Thats funny!!

[@notcharles]

I solder my connectors in place.

[@Lou-eye]

It would work better using a 4700uf 63v Capacitor across the pos and neg Output of the diode rectifier.

[@javiergomez-et9nl]

Hello, can somebody help me pls? With what reference can i Buy this recitifer in Colombia? Some place for buy it? Pls help me. Hola alguien podría decirme con que referencia puedo conseguir el puente rectificador o algún lugar donde pueda comprarlo para Colombia! Gracias 😀

[@wesleyleal7826]

Cant you just put quick connects on the leads and swap them when you want to swap it???

[@mr.commonsense]

Like magnets or something?

[@zeon5323]

What a good idea. I'm going to do this to my welder.

[@PrivateNexus36]

The problem with this is that it is still kind of ac. While it may not be switching from pos to neg and back it still goes from max voltage to 0 60 time a second. The best thing to do would be to make choke from an old microwave transformer and add some capacitors to smooth the voltage. Then you get real DC rather than kind of dc.

[@asherdie]

Cryogenic Gaming pulsed dc is an expensive option

[@willwalker1545]

What if you used two of these diodes. On the output (DC) side connect the positive to positive and negative to negative so it would be a parallel circuit that receives power from either diode. Then on the input (AC) side have them wired opposite of each other, so when one diode is not letting power through the other one would be. Would that successfully balance out the AC frequency and make it constant voltage?

[@1kiffertom1]

please could you explain how to make this choke and where do i install it/ thanks!

[@vikingchild8678]

How about adding just one 2MEC9 30uF 370VAC 60/50HZ Cap to smooth out the current. Would I definitely need a choke? Are there any chokes that I could by that would work?

[@TDG2654]

Will Walker no, unfortunately not. Since both diodes are fed from the same alternating current source, their output is exactly the same. The only thing it will do is split the load between the two rectifiers

[@opeyshop]

The 7018 is the backbone of structural welding. This rod runs completely different from the 6010 and 6011 rods-it is much smoother and easier. ... The flux contains almost no hydrogen, and the rod produces smooth, strong welds that are very ductile. For this reason, these rods are used extensively in structural welding.

[@michaelszczys8316]

Worked in shop with structural steel in 90s. Welded I- beams and heavy channel with 7018 all the time. Welds nice and slow so all that heavy stuff gets a chance to heat up

[@michaelszczys8316]

In 80s welded a lot of plate steel and tubing with 7014 and 7024 . I like welding with that stuff. Make real nice looking strong welds

[@gsallen9588]

Markp0, that bridge rectifier is designed to be mounted on a heat sink with thermal conductive paste (like that used to mount a computer CPU chip) in the base plate contact interface.

[@seanseoltoir]

Anti-seize seems to work as a good thermal paste... I've used it when mounting higher power LEDs to a metal surface...

[@jesusherreraperez8586]

Buenas noches, gracias por tu conocimiento, lo bueno que hace bastantes años existe la soldadura 7028 ac, muy útil y con las mismas cualidades del 7018 tradicional

[@kennycraze]

I see the diode works with 3 phase AC power. I wonder if it would work on single phase 230 volts input to the transformer?

[@johnnz4375]

Kenneth Smith , The 3 phase is only on the primary side of the transformer , so it doesn’t matter if the input is 3 phase or single phase or even 2 phase ( 415V ) you can always use the rectifier on the secondary side of the transformer. ( never put the rectifier on the primary side of the transformer )

[@kennycraze]

@@johnnz4375 Yes, I thought of that knowing the diode is installed on the output terminals. I guess the question is what was the input power in the equation when, after the conversion, the welding was done successfully in the original post?

[@bmlennox]

should mount this on an aluminum heat sink with heat sink compound with some fan type air flow...

[@DocLarsen44]

For $45, you betcha!!

[@capchassuck]

Hey thanks for posting. I tried this on a bxi 100 and it worked .was always wanting to get a configuration of welding diods but this is much better.

[@voixlibre8432]

Hey Mark, I'm new to electricity and welding, but would it be possible to put a switch and keep the machine AC and DC, through the switch?

[@markp0177]

Yes you could put a switch, just make sure it can handle at least 200 amps.

[@notcharles]

Well, use four DIN connectors, then you simply move your cables to change from AC to DC or from DCEN to DCEP - much cheaper than any 200Amp DPDT switch and less wiring, too!

[@thomasharris2919]

Why not just swap stinger & ground same thing

[@Blakehx]

What would happen if you connected it the other way around and had the positive as the rod holder?

[@markp0177]

It would still weld but it is a lot smoother having the rod as the negative.

[@notsogreat123]

Just go buy an inverter welder for less than $100. Just the fraction of the weight and space. And they have become very reliable. And they are DC.

[@CohassetMA]

ya now go use it to thaw out pipes and see how long your inverter lasts

[@Lukrafiveman]

You said you used 2500V Rectifier but the link takes me to a product with1600V Rectifier.. so do I get a 1600V or 2500V ?

[@markp0177]

A 1600v rectifier will work too.

[@amilcarcontreras7473]

Gracias por compartir tu sabiduria .. una abrazo fraternal desde Panamá.

[@campbellmarty36]

All this work and your STILL welding in wrong polarity....You need to be in DC+Reverse polarity! NOT DC-!... DC- straight is for TIG welding.... might wanna double check but quite sure I’m correct?... JS

[@josejaimeaguileraanda4993]

Mi maquina de soldar es 220 de conecion electrica le puedo adactar este tipo de rectificador que se esta mostrando en el video

[@badmotherhumper]

Did anyone use capacitors to smooth out the arc? (have this setup and would like to stabilize the arc) What values (part #?) of caps?

[@AK74Man87]

With this now, you should be able to do scratch start tig right?

[@jeffery19677]

Yes.

[@leemitchell3020]

Absolutely, if you walk the cup it's like striking a match. I didn't know there was another way to TIG weld till 15 years ago and I've been welding since 83

[@dennismadigan2023]

I was just thinking the same thing. I will try this diod on my welder and also try tig. Thanks

[@charleslassiter774]

7018 is a AC/DC rod. This modification would allow the use of 6010, 7010, 8010, 7016 and other DC only rods. This modification would also make it possible to use DC tig welding.

[@josejaimeaguileraanda4993]

Estas soldadoras son 110 voltios o son 220 voltios me refiero ala conecion electrica de la maquina

[@buellb0y]

Why in the world would you mount the rectifier on the OUTSIDE of the machine?!? Mount it inside so there’s no electrocution hazard. And BTW, you made a pulsating DC welder, not true DC.

[@n5ifi]

Where did you install the Inductor/Capacitors (Filter Section)? All you did was double the frequency and cut the negative half of the cycle out. Your voltage is still passing through zero 120 times a second without a filter section. Doubling the output frequency is good but you need an inductor at the very least to smooth the dc and give your little transformer some help.

[@notcharles]

CURIOUS - why didn't you turn that DIODE 90 degrees to make the connections?

[@mr.commonsense]

Because it would be harder to add the diodes then

[@aux1z11]

I have a old Miller AC welder and going to try this out but going to look around for a rectifier with no China writing on it.

[@jamessonger3]

ya know, since you know how to do that, you would think that you would have at least known to weld 7018 with DC EP!! you should have switched ur leads from that little box thing you have.... electrode should have been the positive and the ground is negative!!

[@johnanthony2545]

Good job man. I have one my dad had.gonna test it see if it still works. Then sell it for 50$. I have welders not worth my time. If I didn’t though I would do this. Nice work hope it serves you well. A few tools and a welder and you can do great things.

[@robertjohnson2351]

20 percent duty cycle(?) I know the new machines suck. Had an old Westinghouse AC machine mfg in late 40s early 50s that was 90%. Kick myself in the a#@ for selling it.

[@paulg444]

I dont like the idea of having those live leads on the front like that, might want to make a little plastic cover for safety sake.

[@joeolexo5187]

What are you going to do run over there and shut him down, write him up, give him a fine, give me a break. Just like all safety guys, they don't know the real problem is he's running reverse polarity for no reason.

[@paulg444]

​@@joeolexo5187 , I have principles and if you dont like them I have others !!

[@MrBikercat]

Hello, just saw your video. thinking of converting my lincoln to dc. I'm assuming that you can covert back to ac by attaching your welding cables to the ac side of the rectifier without having to totally disconnect the rectifier? Thanks

[@ThisIsYourBoyEric]

Good afternoon. I have the same welder that I've also converted to D.C. I'm trying to use 7018 rods and I'm using a 300 amp rectifier as well. Once I put the stick to the material the welder bogs down and the fan stops working. After I remove the stick from the material the fan comes back on. I'm using a Coleman 5500 generator to power the welder with works great. I've used it with another buzz box but without the conversion. Do you have any idea what is wrong with me? Thank you very much. Eric.

[@markp0177]

Hello. I am not sure why it is doing that, my guess is that your generator is not big enough. I use a 11,000 watt generator to run mine. If you have to you can weld with three car batteries. I have a video on how to do that.