Hand made precision cuts feathered perfectly lol.... Twiggs your an inspiration for every restoration project! Keep going Bro 100% 🎉really enjoy your tutorial 100%
@griffogriff95326 ай бұрын
Nice one, just in the middle of doing my passenger side
@malcolmyoung78666 ай бұрын
Good progress Dude.. if I’m guessing that if I did that you could add an ‘0’ on the end for the total amount of hours…🤔😳
@PedroPlckle6 ай бұрын
Hi Matt. FYI, That pitting WILL gradually turn back into rust in a couple of years, even after you've converted it with the best converter on the market (Dinitrol RC900). It is absolutely essential that you treat it with cavity wax after conversion. Choose any clear, beige, brown or any viscosity of Dinitrol cavity wax. ML, for example, is perfect for that application.
@TwiggsT45 ай бұрын
Yes you're absolutely right, I will be using plenty of cavity wax, I use a range on products and Dinitrol is one of them 👌
@Kai778846 ай бұрын
Hello perfect 👍👍👍👍greetings from Germany 🇩🇪👋👋👋Kai 🙏🍻 EM England:Slowakei 2:1👍👍👍👍
@stephenpoessl54646 ай бұрын
Hi twigs love your vids and could you tell me what is the rust killer you use please.
@grahamstaddon99906 ай бұрын
There’s a couple on KZbin doing a type 2 who use ospho or something like that with similar results to Matt
@PedroPlckle6 ай бұрын
I have 25 year's previous on rust proofing/conversion/prevention. Done my T4 to show condition. Learn about ONE brand - DINITROL. RC900 is the converter, then you need cavity wax over that - there are many viscosities - and depending on where it is, a final seal - e.g. 4941 Black. All cavity waxes and even the final 4941 (but less volume) contain the all-important CIC - Corrosion Inhibiting Compound. Read the spec sheets of the products and it'll all become clear. Do NOT use Hammerite/Finnegan's or anything that says Waxoyl on it. It's CRAP and actually poses a threat to your pride and joy.
@PedroPlckle6 ай бұрын
Even the cavity waxes are surprisingly abrasion-resistant.