Mastering the ingredients in perfumery

My perfumery course: www.perfumerystudent.com/
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My perfume brand: zur.ai/
This video explains why learning the ingredients is so important in perfumery and gives a method for doing so. For more on correct smelling technique and avoiding olfactory fatigue:
• How to smell like a pe...
Join our community of perfume makers on discord to share tips on perfume making: / discord
Listen to the video as a podcast: anchor.fm/sam-macer
Instagram accounts:
@sam.macer - / sam.macer
@zurai.official - / zurai.official
@thefragrancefoundry - / thefragrancefoundry
Starting your own perfume brand? I host my online store with Shopify: shopify.pxf.io/jryWdn

[@la-ia1404]

You are by far the highest quality teacher I have found that does perfumery. I don't know how I didn't find you last year. Would of saved me a lot of wasted time watching idiots who don't show you anything about perfumery and just use cheap crap fragrance oils.

[@sammacer]

Thanks a lot!

[@nilsgebhardt8758]

Thank you so much for getting an insight into your process of evaluation. Well structured and I like your sense of aesthetics 😊

[@sammacer]

Thank you very much, enjoy your evening 😊

[@ferrysukarno]

Thank you for this video. I am planning of jumping into the perfumery wagon. But your perspective of learning ingredients has cleared up a lot. Learn small and be good at it. Appreciate it.

[@sammacer]

🙏 good luck!

[@martinarenzi4744]

Thank you so much ❤😊 very intesting and instructive. I noticed the books and I am going to buy and read one good book on parfume materials. It will be so instructive to read it from a book which is actually used in parfumery school! Thank you, please keep making videos like this one❤😊

[@byron8159]

music is too loud

[@deenwadunyaa]

really great information i honestly didnt expect id learn so much

[@sammacer]

Glad it was helpful!

[@astronomiica]

Super informative and very humble, thanks so much!!!

[@sammacer]

No problem))

[@raysanty4270]

Your videos are really awesome! They are so helpful for the ones who are starting. I was just wondering about dilutions and I found this video. Do perfumes always use alcohol for dilutions or DPG? I noticed some of the essential oils I purchsed are not diluted in alcohol but DPG and I wonder if there is any reason. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

[@sammacer]

Thank you! Yes often DPG is used to dilute thick materials to make them pourable / pipettable. Sometimes it can be difficult to dilute thick materials in alcohol from the outset. After DPG has made them usable you can continue to dilute them with alcohol. Occasionally you might want to use DPG as part of your final formulation, for example in reed diffusers. Too much DPG in a regular perfume however might make it sticky.

[@markanthony4546]

Thank you so much for these videos Sam. I’d kill for a video about how to do dilutions though. That’s one of the hardest things for me to understand especially because of my poor math skills and some disabilities.

[@sammacer]

Great idea - I meant to do that but I never really got around to it.

[@soulkaviar]

I'd love this too!

[@efrizaldia]

Thumbs up. A very informative perfumery channel!

[@sammacer]

Thank you!!

[@Fantastic_Timez]

As a musician, perfumery really looks like the ingredients are the notes, the accords are the chords (note combinations) and the perfume is the final composition. Learning chemistry would also help just like in music learning how to read/write music can be really helpful.

[@sammacer]

Yep I would say that's a great analogy, one I like to use too

[@allysonbriner1883]

Can't wait to try this out once I finish diluting all my materials! This may be a stupid question, but what do you do with your scent strips when they are sitting around for multiple days? Keep them in a bin or plastic bag? I left a hedione scent strip out in my apartment for just a day and I can still smell it days later!

[@sammacer]

Yeah I just leave the around the house. Don't put them all together or they will cross-contaminate each other

[@bribon5589]

Good video man!

[@carinapearson9040]

I would LOVE if you did a video of how to create an accord...does every accord have a recognizable smell? (rose, amber, etc.) Or can you create accords that words don't describe and doesn't have a recognizable scent? I love your channel so much. Very high quality content and I can tell you're passionate about perfumery.

[@sammacer]

Thank you so much Carina! Yes that's something I meant to do a while ago but kind of forgot about - I'll try to get that video out sooner rather than later. And in answer to your question, both of those two; abstract and realistic, are valid types of accord 😊

[@joejojo5966]

@@sammacer so you technically could find a brand new scent through mixing to create an accord?

[@sammacer]

@@joejojo5966 In theory, yes

[@amandaberns5749]

Listening to your videos in spotify, they are great! Thank tou for sharing such magnificent information! About dilutions… I’m using 10%, 5%, 3%, 1%. I base these percentages in the IFRA and Tisserandt safety guides (since thats the max I will be able to use), so if I’m allowed to use >5%, I dilute into 10% and 5%, if I’m allowed 3%, I dilute into 5% and 3%, if allowed

[@sammacer]

I think you’re complicating things a little. My recommended method would be to simply use 10% and 1% dilutions and use a formulation software like Formulair to check you’re not going over the limit for each of your formulas. But if it works for you then why not…

[@amandaberns5749]

@@sammacer Undestood! Thank you very much for the reply :)

[@passsacaglia]

This was really good Sam! Started to watch all of your chemic,, I mean videos ;) So after watching the Amber video I got it that you need the ingredients to make the Amber accord (starting to learn the terms&voc now thanks to you), and not usually just buy a bottle of amber? Or is there 2 ways but one may be either more expensive or less hard work to do or 3rd like you want Your unique kind of amber accord based on your liking? Let's say I wanna do a really flowery perfume which has lets say Patchouli+Sandalwood as base maybe vetiver - amber+musk in mid - rose or carnation plus like peach or something in top, you first Create these accords (no2) from ingredients (no1) based on some example standard formulas like in the book? All the best ! Daveman

[@sammacer]

Yeah exactly, so the 3 steps for making a perfume are as follows: 1) Know the ingredients well, 2) Make accords out of the ingredients, 3) Make a perfume out of the accords and ingredients. Some places sell pre-made accords but it's better to make them yourself so you understand them and know what's in them. In your example you might make some accords e.g. peach and amber and then blend those with and some extra naturals like patchouli in the final perfume. Hope this helps.

[@passsacaglia]

@@sammacer ok got it now Sam! Seriously, so much appreciated! I will spread your channel to my homies and keep on doing what you do, I love it and I actually met an old friend and a businesspartner now yesterday turns out we spoke 50% all day about all the old perfumes we love and memories haha! Think this corona thing is getting people into old hobbies, dreams, this kind of stuff so, keep on rolling! All the best!

[@Quietcloud]

I am thrilled to have found your channel. I'm a complete noob and I wonder if there is a written source to know which ingredients make up a certain group? I want to take your advice and learn a fewer number at a time. I love resins. How will I know which materials to seek out?

[@sammacer]

I can’t think of a good resource off the top of my head but you can search on basenotes.com. For resins I recommend Labdanum Absolute and Benzoin Siam resinoid. You can also look at Frankincense, Myrrh & Styrax.

[@gianirban6596]

@@sammacer Thank you!

[@user-db6jh8is8r]

Thank you!

[@AhmedMustafa-wb5ll]

Hello sam, I am new to this, I love the smell of the rain hitting the earth, what ingredients should i learn to make this smell?

[@sammacer]

Watch my video on making a rain accord!

[@gaara2960]

Thats very kind from you 😌. I worked before with all 20% dilutions and tried to finish my blend by learning with 100 drops.. but I think thats not very accurate. So what Im doing now is to dilute all of my oils and chemicals to 10% And sth like Indol or Damascone to 1% :) ( of course just a few grams) What do you think 🤔

[@sammacer]

Hey! I think that's a great idea. You can keep 20% if you want but 10% makes the maths easier and as a bonus you can follow along to my videos that way. All you need to do is add equal weight ethanol to the weight of the 20% solution you already have :)

[@gaara2960]

@@sammacer thank you :) yes I did like this and I just try yet how they act together to each other 😊

[@csosml4868]

Hi sam, is there any pdfs guide to make an accord, i am struggle with the money issue, i've try to make a perfume sadly something turn bad / overpower, So, i need to make an effective trial&error Or if you doesnt have any pdf i love to read or watch too🙏

[@sammacer]

Try these videos: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hJqWoqWtmdV2q6s kzbin.info/www/bejne/eJWZf4Knnalsers

[@TheTigerofthesnow]

I like woody and spicy essences that last a long time, what ingredients do you recommend I learn?

[@sammacer]

Look for woody-Amber raw materials like iso e super, cedramber, Hydroxyambran, AmberXtreme etc and spice naturals like black pepper

[@TheTigerofthesnow]

@@sammacer thanks so much 👍🏼

[@jessicacollins8412]

Mind Blown

[@sammacer]

😀😂

[@Canfield2024]

Would you please lower the music, it’s difficult to focus on your voice. Your explanation really helps. Thank you.

[@sammacer]

Apologies I don’t on the newer videos but I cannot edit the old ones

[@sportsmen4569]

music more quite or voice louder. :D

[@nickkerinklio8239]

Gr8 vid. I’m commenting so you get more attention from the algorithm

[@sammacer]

Thanks!

[@TheCybird]

love your free knowledge, But im not here to enjoy music, its too loud to concentrate on your lesson.

[@sammacer]

This video was published over 3 years ago, unfortunately there’s nothing I can do about it now