MATCHING CEMENT JOINTS RE-LAY BRICK (Mike Haduck)

[@T.E.P.]

One of my favorite thing about all the videos is how you also demonstrate the ability to adjust to the unpredictable circumstances and dont rush the quality. very refreshing. Cheers!

[@MikeHaduck]

thanks Thor, I appreciate it. Cheers also, mike

[@T.E.P.]

@@MikeHaduck thanks again Mike ... found the video and looks like I've watched it already 2 years ago!!!

[@gabec6522]

I have been doing this for years and I learned from a lot of the old timers!!! and I will say I have learned a lot from your videos thanks! nice job and I bet it would be a pleasure to work with you!

[@wetsaw7869]

Looked great when you finished. Good video, thanks Mike

[@MikeHaduck]

thanks Jeff, I appreciate it. mike

[@GunsHarleysUSA]

The tricks of the trade, thanks for the tip Mike. And that's how one becomes a professional, by being taught by a professional.

[@MikeHaduck]

+GunsHarleysUSA just passing along what the old timers showed me, Happy New year, thanks mike

[@Love-Junky]

Your paintbrush trick is genius! Thank you!!!!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks Anthony, Mike

[@publicprofile1]

That's ART! Another incredible job Mike.

[@MikeHaduck]

+Jake Belk thanks, something different, I appreciate it; mike

[@supurbian]

what a great tip!! a person couldn't buy information like this ...i learn something new every time i watch one of your videos.

[@MikeHaduck]

+supurbian thanks, I am getting a bit braver as I go. I appreciate it. Mike

[@suep4530]

an artist no matter how you see it. mixing cement for the color or texture or mixing paints for the same purpose. nice job.

[@MikeHaduck]

+Sue P thanks sue, mike

[@lennyadamowicz7642]

Thanks again Mike! 👌🤩👍

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks, Mike

[@howardtoob]

Outstanding! A real craftsman.

[@MikeHaduck]

thanks howard, just faking it, I appreciate it. mike

[@davemiller7633]

Mike I've used this technique before. Terrific video

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks David, I appreciate it, mike

[@scotolbe]

This does work because I have needed to do it a few times. One job a lady refused to believe that she bought the wrong color mortar and it turned out too light. I mixed straight Portland and a little water and went over the entire job including the original and it came out nice. Nice brick work Mike.

[@MikeHaduck]

+ScottTolbert , It just shows I am not the only guy who have done this, thanks Scott I was a little leery about putting this video on because I thought they would say It is a little cheap, but in the real world you got to do what you got to do, I am getting a little braver as I go. thanks mike

[@FireplacesRock]

the brick Boss! Great work Mike.

[@MikeHaduck]

+Jaime Visions In Stone thanks Jamie,,,,, mike

[@justwondering5540]

I tried matching Red mortar (bricK dust ) I now have a pink wall ! That painting trick with the whitewash mix is neat Idea.

[@MikeHaduck]

+Don Baus thanks, I am just passing it on. mike

[@lukemedcraft446]

Cheers Mike was helpful may need to recap later on by re watching it to freshen my memory but top job

[@MikeHaduck]

+luke medcraft thanks Luke, I appreciate it. mike

[@brandonaegerter]

Just a few clarifications/corrections to help anyone in the future: First, the term Mortar does not mean lime mortar. Type S or Type N, the most commonly used, are different ratios of Hydraulic Lime and Portland Cement. The only mortar available today that is purely Lime is Type L mortar and it's next to impossible to find. Just check the MSDS of any company that sells Mortar, it's mainly Portland Cement with Lime added as a plasticizer and to increase workability. Second, I spend a good amount of time throughout the year trying to match colored mortar and there are many factors that come into play that determine the end result. Ambient temperature, exposure to sunlight during curing, variations of water in the mix, curing time and how much you tool it all play roles in the end result. The reason that the hair dryer test didn't work is because you used heat and moving air to cure the mortar. In the wall it cooled slower and at a lower temperature. The bricks also sucked out moisture whereas the trowel sealed in moisture behind your test. All that being said I also wanted to thank you for your videos! I've watched a lot of them and I really enjoy seeing the way you approach you trade. Thank you!

[@MikeHaduck]

+brandonaegerter thanks for the input, everything helps, and I do not know it all. and I am learning everyday, thanks for the comment. mike

[@fernandomachado4803]

👍👍👏👏 very nice friend !!

[@RA-zl6iw]

Thanks Mike, and Happy New Year to you. I am horrible at trying to match mortar (I am color blind). I have fixed several jobs above garage doors. Guys almost always refuse to bolt them to the wood header, and they sag every time.

[@MikeHaduck]

+RJ A I agree, thanks RJA,, happy new year also. mike

[@shahsmerdis]

Very interesting. Can you also paint your old brick with the new mortar and fade it out? Like auto body repairs so there is no hard transition ? Also very interesting to chip out some old mortar to see the nonexposed side .

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Bardia, whatever works, I have videos on repointing brick work and brick wall repair, that might help, thanks Mike

[@cheatcanyon1]

Genius! Thank you sir!

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks, mike

[@jhad3n]

One of the first things I notice. Where, on new brick construction, when the foundation was laid on a previous date, almost invariably the brick veneer "walls" mortar is dissimilar in color to that foundation mortar. Is this from inconsistent measuring of sand, mortar ratios, time of year, or amount of water in the mortar mix? Or is this variation more in depth? Thanks.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi 49, unless the job is being done all at the same time, everything will contribute to discoloration, traditional cements change color because of temperature, drying time, more or less water, air moisture, freezing, it goes on and on, , the trick is to be able to hide it at the end, If that makes sense, thanks, Mike

[@robertbrazas9287]

Can this be done after mortar has dried for over month?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Robert, I have done it even years after , thanks Mike

[@joemommma6573]

thanks mike!

[@peteohm]

Wonder if you could use a bit of water based paint in thinned out mortar mix?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Pete , I never tried it but maybe, thanks Mike

[@g1boy2]

A nuclear scientist couldn't figure out how to solve that problem but its no big deal for Mr.Haduck

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks g1, Mike

[@mikeyalves2]

Hey Mike! Question, what about using liquid cement dye?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi mikey,,, dyes in ny opinion fade after time no matter what you use, thanks, Mike

[@AlvinShepherd]

Mike, I've been thinking about putting a wet look sealer on my brick house. I know you are someone who will give it to me straight. Looking over your channel I don't see anything and there's probably a good reason for that. So what do you think am I opening up a can of worms for problems down the road?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Shepherd, I only seen once when the brick was very old and used that they sealed it, I am not a fan of that unless it is a chimney that is leaking, every situation is different of course, my option, mike

[@AlvinShepherd]

@@MikeHaduck Thanks, I know if you want to get the truth you don't ask the man selling the product. You have a great channel and I highly respect your judgement.

[@MikeHaduck]

Thanks I appreciate it, mike

[@terryhawkins4295]

I havnt seen you use acid or a detergent to wash your brick when your done, is that common in your area? We wash almost all brick, that makes a big difference with matching mortar as well

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Terry, I use acid as a last resort, I got a couple videos out on cleaning brick with acid, thanks Mike

[@NtoHealth]

Hi Mike! Why not just add extra sand to the first round of cement or dust the top when its wet lightly with sand?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Nto, until the cement actually dries it is always a waiting game, one hour and I matched it up satisfactory to the owner so no big deal, thanks mike

[@luisperez-gj4ho]

brilliant

[@MikeHaduck]

+luis perez thanks, I appreciate it, mike

[@davejsv721]

I have a question. I hear so many different opinions on Type N or Type S mortar for brick. What is your opinion. I lean towards Type S because the old days was 1portland/ 1/2 lime and 3 sand and that is much stronger of a mix.

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi davejsv, I also use s mortar, others say different, but I explain the whole thing on my video (How I lay brick (part 5 of 5) Mike haduck) all about the different types thanks mike

[@pmcracken1042]

Mike, Hello from Pittsburgh, Pa. What mortar mix did you use to lay those bricks? Thanks, your channel is my favorite. Keep up the great work!!

[@MikeHaduck]

+P mcracken I personally use S mortar, 2 sand to 1 cement, a lot of folks will not agree with me, so I would ask someone local, thanks mike

[@conkey4]

I will start and say I have seen a lot of your videos and as an apprentice up here in Canada you have shown me different views on how to approach jobs and for that I am happy to see informative videos about our trade but on that note I wanted to say/ask a few questions and not be that kind of guy who bad mouthing guys who post videos but here are a few things I noticed on your video. 1) The steel lintel was not cleaned to remove old rust and then re-primed ( I'm aware that everywhere does it different as I said before I have seen a lot of your videos) but industry standards are industry standards 2) Do those Lag bolts satisfy Pennsylvanian local building codes? I only ask because from the one sitting on the lintel doesn't look longer then 75mm (or just shy of 3 inches for you guys down in the states) This said it might just be how it looks on the screen but either way they do look quiet small for a garage door opening. Also the gentlemen who screwed them in seemed to tighten them quite gingerly and that the washer ended up in the cut of the steel not around the opening which defeats the purpose of a washer that or he forgot the washer on that bolt. 3) @0:43 I don't see those 3/4 bats that you installed at @1:18. 4) Building paper is to go in front steel not behind it as you can see @ 1:28 and also i noticed there were no weep holes over steel and since whom ever didn't prime the steel any water that gets behind these bricks since the steel is already aged can increase the chances of failure and a garage door opening is the last place you want a failure ( not to mention this job was to fix a failing lintel). Thanks again for all your videos cant wait for the next one

[@MikeHaduck]

+G RaM Thanks for the comment, but I think your getting a little too pickey? If I wasn't sure of the outcome I would have not taken the job, I ask my self the basics like (is water going to get to it?) (how long is the life of the job) etc etc etc. I was confident with these carpenters because they had 80 years of experience between them. and Inspectors usually won't come around unless they are looking for money and I would be filming them to make sure they take liability. and they don't want to take the chance.. Just the way it is. thanks mike

[@MattG125]

great videos. I was able to fix my steps and stoop because of all your videos about steps (The town's salt trucks throws the salt right into my steps and prematurely decimated them). But I must say- i took all the credit after the wife inspected and approved that job!! So- I also have a similar problem as you have in THIS video - on a brick veneer wall- except my problem is on the wall corner- not over the garage. At the end of the wall I can remove a section of about 6 or 8 bricks- toward the bottom-- at the level of my waist. Just like a puzzle piece. the rest of the wall seems good- if not great. Should I clean up the mortar around this and install it back as one "puzzle piece"? or should I break it apart and install each brick individually? This is in NJ near the mountains (Poconos / Appalachians) very similar to the climate where you are in PA. What mortar would you recommend for this repair? I didn't catch exactly how you said you modified your S mortar in this video. I know you usually frown upon straight S mortar in this climate. Thanks.

[@MikeHaduck]

+Matt G usually brick that is up and down and not getting wet, I think s mortar is fine, but if it lays flat and the weather is getting to it like outside steps I usually add a lot of Portland, everyone say different, as far as removing a section, I would probably clean it out first and see if you can repoint it that way, If you keep the cement stiff it shouldn't get that dirty, and if all falls apart you got to relay it. I can't say unless I was actually there to see it. whatever you do , don't ask the wife cause every man is wrong even if he is right., LOL thanks mike

[@ModernModr]

I've had success acid washing to lighten up the mortar.

[@MikeHaduck]

, I worry sometimes about the brick itself though, but as I always say - anything that works, thanks mike

[@joemommma6573]

i always thought the type S premix mortar come with sand in it?

[@MikeHaduck]

Hi Joe, yes it does, sometimes I like to mix it old-school, thanks Mike

[@chrisgiurlanda3445]

No flashing weep vents?

[@MikeHaduck]

Under a eve like that? Mike

[@ryanpharr]

RIP good camera.

[@MikeHaduck]

+Ryan Pharr It was getting pretty ragged anyway, I was expecting it lol mike

[@neil340]

Those random yellow bricks really irk me

[@MikeHaduck]

thanks Neil, just the way it is mike

[@chrisgiurlanda3445]

Over lintel

[@MikeHaduck]

Yes, they really didn’t use steel until latter 1800s, most old buildings were arched or oak wood, and there is still a lot of them around, steel expands contracts and rust, thanks mike