ICF vs SIPs vs Framing - Pros and Cons

Insulated Concrete Forms vs Structural Insulated Panels vs Traditional Platform Framing. In this video I will give you the pros & cons for all three of these building systems. While most homes in the US/Canada are built with traditional framing is that the best system? And what about Insulated Concrete Forms or Structural Insulated Panels, what advantages do these have? I've built homes with all three of these systems in my 24 years as a Builder, so I'll give you my thoughts along with a cost comparison.
We have a few spots left in next week's Builder Training in Denver Colorado Nov 12-13, 2019. Details here: constructionin...
A few of the videos I mentioned in today's Build Show:
3 Benefits of SIPs Framing vs Traditional Studs - • 3 Benefits of SIPs Fra...
Insulated Concrete Forms - Overview, Costs, and Cons - • Insulated Concrete For...
This Pink Stuff is The Secret to ICF Waterproofing -
• This Pink Stuff is The...
Timber Frame Time Lapse - • Timber Frame Time Lapse
Bensonwood Factory Tour - • Framing in a Factory w...
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[@quinnlanzinger6051]

I am an ICF exclusive builder, who has used it all. I was raised in a family of custom home builders - all using the traditional method. We tried adopting SIPS, but found that it wasn't the easiest to work with, however the overall build was much better than traditional methods. Then we started to use ICF... WOW. I'm a civil engineer by study, and this stuff impressed the heck out of me. You cannot beat the user-friendliness, ease of construction, air tightness, strength, sound barrier, etc. I decided to start a business only doing ICF, as that's how strongly I believe in the product. I've also used almost all the brands out there, and in my opinion, the superior one is Integra Spec. For its ease of use and minimal waste especially when compared to other ICF brands. Not only is it 100% recycled material, but it keeps much more waste out of the landfills (or you can look at it that we're not throwing the clients money in the landfill either...)

[@weekendwarrior9171]

Have you run into any condensation issues? and how deep would you go. I want to do a bunker with ICF and a basement over that the whole house ICF.

[@quinnlanzinger6051]

@@weekendwarrior9171 I have never had issues with condensation. If installed properly, and designed with proper ventalation, HRV, etc there should be no issues! As for depth, no real restriction there as long as properly reinforced (not sure where you're located for earthquake, etc). I do a vertical run of M10 every 30" and a horizontal run every 24" or 2 blocks. And I put rebar out of my footings into my walls, not those "key"s in the footing that lots of people do.

[@circusofsix]

what is the average cost per sq ft to build a home using icf?

[@mjohnson7325]

I completely agreed with you. Former builder

[@whymindsetmatters]

Have you worked with Nudura?

[@LK-ks3dk]

I bought an iCF house in Montana, and it's amazingly efficient. 3400 square feet of livable space, and our gas bill last February was only $93.

[@benfox4004]

Any downsides or concerns?

[@laurenatkin1366]

I'd love to know more. I building in the spring just west of Missoula. Do you know who the builder was? Any other suggestions you have for this type of building?

[@gregb124]

@@laurenatkin1366 if you're interested in building an ICF home reply back and I'll get you hooked up with the right product and installers.

[@Asphaltaperider]

Awesome comment! Just moved back home to Montana and live in deer lodge. My wife and I plan on building in about a year or 2, and this is perfect. Leaning hard at the ICF especially now that it’s -15 and -35 wind chill. 👍🏻

[@kateguillot8401]

Wow that's very impressive, considering montana winters!

[@gfarrell80]

Speaking as an architect, I feel like I should get an AIA continuing education credit after watching this video.

[@Ducatista189]

Just need some catered panera bread sandwiches and a sign in sheet.

[@balloney2175]

have you tried that before? just asking

[@Bigrignohio]

At least a USGBCI CEU credit?

[@chahahc]

It feels like society is shifting more and more towards informal systems of education. We as a populace are more knowledgeable than ever before. Yet because the knowledge wasn't obtained through the means of the conventional educational system, there is no official accreditation to signal that we possess it.

[@ephemeralcreek]

true - i feel like I read a commercial after the average AIA CEC

[@mruehle0609]

Great presentation, as always! Just some personal observations and added info on the SIPS. I am a timber framer so I use SIPS above grade for most of my builds, and conventional foundation or ICF below grade. Some projects will be ICF to the top of the exterior walls, with timber frame trusses for the roof structure, and SIPS panels for the roof enclosure. 1) One of the most common concerns I hear from the trades about SIPS is that the electrician expects the wiring to be difficult or restrictive. (And the sheetrock installers and plumbers have concerns about the timber frame, but that's another subject.) There are a few types of SIPS, and they are good for different situations. EPS (white polystyrene) and XPS (extruded polystyrene - pink board) SIPS are glued up from flat sheets, and the way the layers are built leaves a void or chase in known position within the panel, generally at 2 ft intervals. So the easiest electrical layout is to place outlets and switches at these locations. The first time is tricky, but it gets pretty easy to router the box opening and fish the Romex through the panels. You can also easily router to a point not where the chase is, as long as the cuts you make are not more than about 1/3 of the panel size in either dimension so as not to lose the panel's structural capacity. BUT when you use SIPS on a timber frame, they are *not* acting as a load-bearing structural wall to support vertical load -- the timber frame does that. They are acting as a shear wall, so in fact only a fraction of the SIPS shear capacity is being used. That means that, as long as engineering OKs the location, you might even be able to cut straight across a panel without compromising anything. We sometimes specify non-structural SIPS (maybe they're IPS?) for timber frames, where there's OSB on one side and a finish surface like sheetrock or pre-installed T&G on the other. Another alternative is to use polyurethane foamed SIPS, less common, but they can have the electrical conduit and boxes preinstalled exactly where needed. Again, last-minute changes can be made with a router, if necessary, under some limits. This will work better in jurisdictions (like Chicago) that do not allow Romex and require all wiring to be in conduit. Care has to be taken when connecting panels to the floor plate and to each other that the conduit stubs line up and get properly connected - I like to install a piece of pull-line as I go to make the electrician's job easier. 2) Another point to make is about SIPS thickness, especially for roof eaves. Depending on the type -- EPS, XPS or PU -- achieving the R value for the roof may result in an unpleasantly thick roof eave thickness, especially if it's plumb-cut. To exceed R-49, you need a 12-1/4" EPS panel (and a bit of extra... that's just R-44) OR an 10-1/2" XPS panel OR an 8-1/4" PU panel. Plumb cut, the 12-1/4 and 10-/12" panels can be too thick. It's possible to make these end at the wall plane and build out the eaves with stick framing. It's also possible to order the EPS and XPS SIPS with either voids for, or preinstalled, 2x material lookouts. That's a bit of extra work. While the insulation is not doing any work out there, the PU SIPS can just run out full length past the wall and it's structurally OK for up to 24" and requires some bracing if longer. The tradeoff is the added cost of SIPS material versus the added labor of building the eaves separately. 3) I have done EPS SIPS installations with 4 x 8 blank SIPS panels site cut etc. and while it can be cheaper, and for some hard-to-get-to sites might be the only way to transport the panels there, it is *messy*. I don't think the client appreciates little bits of white styrofoam blowing about the property. It's not like sawdust or other construction debris. So I don't like to do even site-cut window and door openings on large panels anymore. I lean towards having full-sized pre-cut, pre-blocked panels made, even if it means a day or two of crane work or a big telehandler. The interior electrical work-created foam bits are easier to contain and keep clean. 4) You had a presentation about slab versus pier foundations. One low-cost option that is interesting for cold climates is to build a pier foundation on poured concrete piers or helical piles, connected by beams. I have used this with the pier locations also acting as the point load support for the timber frame posts. The exterior SIPS are then acting as simply insulation and shear wall, not bearing wall. So how does this relate to SIPS? Well, you can span between the lower part of the pier-to-pier beams with SIPS for a sufficient insulation value, with enough space left above for plumbing, electrical etc. A weather-proof, pest-proof panel (e.g. fiber-cement board) is preinstalled on the floor SIPS before they are dropped into place. There is a waterproof, airtight flexible gasket placed on the strips that support the SIPS. And a debris/critter screen may be installed around the perimeter, for example: perforated Corten steel sheet. Far less use of concrete, and no residual humidity issues inside from the concrete slab curing (which is why so many of the concrete slab/basement homes have initial high humidity problems). I'm just starting a project like this in Michigan.

[@bradeley6409]

What is the name of your business? I'm in Michigan as well.

[@pushingtwenty]

O

[@rashpalpuarr3687]

What an insight - thanks for sharing I’m learning building in Australia and am looking at ways to build a home myself wt new technologies to make it as green as posb

[@ph3590]

The "SIPS Enclosed" Pier Foundation sounds awesome and would love to hear more about that, or see video/pictures.

[@jasonjarrett9062]

I am very intrigued by this process. I'm also in Michigan and planning to build this year. I would love to connect with you somehow and learn more about a timber frame and sip combination.

[@o8ko8k]

I live in a 10" thick SIP house that is 23 years old here in Arizona, absolutely love it. Low ac bill, well sealed, also fiberglass R values drop with temperature, polystyrene and other sip material does not. Desert climate here so no humidity issues. Very quiet inside too. I will say it's so well sealed, CO2 levels and poor air quality can be an issue. I'd recommend builders install a central whole house fan for air quality, fresh air turnover. The previous owners let the roof go bad and it leaked, one wall rotting the inner OSB out, however the repairs were relatively easy to reglue new OSB and sheetrock over. Hanging pictures on exterior walls is super easy. the electrical outlet and lighting placement was not well though out on this construction. I would like to expand the house with an addition but finding a contractor to do it right or even want to is hard. I may have to do it myself.

[@HoopHelps]

Hey mate, did a 4000 sqft walkout basement in ICF Foxblock. Loved it! Expensive, but ended up a lovely home. Self taught, did a 52x32 shop 1st to cut my teeth on, I'm not a builder but very mechanical and good with my hands. Engine builder and truck driver by trade. Built said house in Missouri, I was owner builder, did all ICF myself successfully, the now owners love the place! Love your channel, very informative! Getting ready to build again, some kind of modest shop home on a slab, probably with radiant floor heating. Will continue following, thanks. Wyatt.

[@geneduclos4003]

Preparing to start a Nudura home North of St. James, MO. Can you share any watch out fors?

[@phslion]

how cost effective is it? was DIY a huge savings

[@Texas254]

Regarding termites and ICF or any other construction material. Being in the pest control industry in Texas for the past 19 years we learned years ago about Bora-Care products. We used it exclusively on new construction builds due to its long term performance and being a safe natural product as well. Once the treated surface is enclosed and protected from UV light you have a lifetime protection basically. For ICF spray exterior walls two feet up from grade and spray foundation coating surfaces well. As added protection in ICF spray rafter over wall and two foot out from wall, including eave material. Since foundations are exposed retreat that area again per label. Great solve for issue. I am surprised manufacturers of the foam block have not mixed in borates in mixture to resolve the issue. This would be a permanent and effective fix.

[@mattpellico5255]

I replaced the foundation on my 100+ year old house using an ICF with this twist: We formed the walls traditionally with 8 foot vertical 3/4" MDO forms and snap ties, but we put the ICF panels on the inside form only. Then buttoned up the outside panel and pumped in the concrete. The end result was a concrete exterior wall (easy to seal), and 2" of foam and screw strips on the inside. The inside MDO panels came off clean as new and the exterior panels were scraped clean and re-used. Did about 20 feet of wall at a time, footing first and then the wall, marching the panels around the perimeter and removing old wall as we went. Only had to jack up the house in 20 foot sections (about 1/8" at a time). End result is a fantastic dry basement with sheetrock on the walls. It's been 20 years now and not a single problem. 55 yards of concrete, 2000 lb of #4 rebar, and roughly half the needed ICF for a complete wall.

[@chrisdaniel1339]

Great solution! Did you form vertical keyways to lock each 20' section to its neighbors on either side?

[@mattpellico5255]

@@chrisdaniel1339 No keyways, but lots of horizontal rebar extending out of each section into the next.

[@andyjame6456]

Such a gorgeous book - each shed is unique and inspiring, and I love all the tiny details Kotite features to help readers imagine how to create their own She Sheds kzbin.infoUgkxe9yi0sulKgsp0VJJCIrLWWkvVqcU7LFR . The feature on Dinah's Rustic Retreat is like something from a fairy tale. It's really inspiring to see how creative all these ordinary people are in making beautiful and useful spaces on a modest scale.

[@SI-lg2vp]

I built my home with Zip insulated walls, Zip roof deck, Advantech flooring. I also used Aero Barrier for air sealing. Added extra earthquake tie downs. I feel I have the best built to last home in my community.

[@scbenna]

I built an ICF house 21 years ago and love it. It is amazingly quiet and comfortable.

[@mkczekala]

Hi, I’m a representative for a SIPS manufacturer, based in Mexico (2) locations exporting to the US. We are currently building a house in Texas using our SIPS panels. You are absolutely right about OSB plywood sheathing rotting and why we produce with 3/8” fiber cement! Our panels give a close to finished product inside and out. We produce thicknesses 4”, 6”, 8” & 10” and 4’ x 8’, 10’ & 12’. I believe we offer the very best option of those presented. Thanks for the informative video!

[@eissao921]

Send me contact info?

[@kevinr1577]

Can I get your info. I like to talk you about your sips panels base in Mexico.

[@mkczekala]

@@kevinr1577 hi Kevin i didn’t hear from you, if you’d like I can contact you, please provide your contact information and I’ll call you.

[@mkczekala]

@@eissao921 hi Omar, i will happily contact you, if you’d like? Please give me your contact info and I’ll call you. Thanks

[@kevinr1577]

@@mkczekala give your info, In will contact you.

[@crockett5]

The 1st type of house you talked about, the concrete/Styrofoam.. The home I lived in during my childhood back in the 80s was made this way. It was in Melbourne, FL I'm not sure who built it but it was supposed to be an experimental design. The walls were very thick and it had built in shutters and a flat concrete roof. Hurricanes couldn't touch it an=d was easy on the electric bill in the summer. On the down side, we had a fire and because the heat was trapped inside the fire couldn't really spread into the house much but it damaged a lot of stuff inside just due to the heat. However the house survived the fire that would have burnt a normal house to the ground. Ours was plaster/Styrofoam/concrete/Styrofoam/plaster so very thick walls..

[@kizk1737]

So was it less safe in a way?

[@naya4607]

@@kizk1737 more safe, it seems.

[@chat-gpt-bot]

On the downside, it contained a MASSIVE HOUSE FIRE in a single room and turned a perfectly fine TV into molted glass.

[@naya4607]

@@chat-gpt-bot which is good... no? it's contained in one room versus burning the entire house to the ground?

[@designstudio8013]

Use smoke detectors.

[@MichaelHoybook]

We moved into our SIP house over two years ago and we are solar powered off grid as well. We live in Northeast Texas. Our SIP construction contractor was Ferrier Custom Homes out of Ft. Worth and the SIP manufacturer was Fischer SIPs out of Kentucky. We have been very happy with the home but our biggest surprise is how much energy is needed to keep the house cool in the Texas heat versus how little energy is needed to keep it warm in the winter. Our walls are 6.5 inches thick and our roof is 11.25 inches thick. We use individual room mini splits for A/C and a wood burning stove for heat. Thanks for the video.

[@mickeybowmeister1944]

Doesn't sound like a very efficient system, SIP should perform better than that I'd think. What type of floor and foundation do you have? I plan to build in AAC Hebel concrete, this is best, thermally efficient, acoustic, light weight, durable and fire resistant.

[@MichaelHoybook]

@@mickeybowmeister1944 I must admit that we didn't pursue any options on the concrete foundation. I do notice that in cold and hot weather that the floor (which is just the foundation stained) right along the baseboards is either cooler or warmer that the floor a foot or two farther inside. I had already decided that we are getting thermal bridging all along the exterior wall foundation and I had not even considered it originally.

[@mickeybowmeister1944]

@@MichaelHoybook that's interesting, my understanding is there's large heat loss and gains through the slab edge which can dramatically reduce the efficiency of even a well insulated house. Normally I would add a 50mm (2") HD foam under the slab for at least 2' and ideally the edge to prevent that thermal bridging. Obviously this is not achieveable on a timber foundation i.e. piles, bearers, joists etc. Either way enjoy your home and Merry Christmas.

[@MichaelHoybook]

@ What part of the country are you in?

@@MichaelHoybook - Near Seattle. The climate is described as Marine 4c, for insulation specifying purposes.

[@monteorchard2618]

I have built 2 ICF homes, and put gauge steel trusses on them (and metal shingles on top of that). You have to be careful with insulation levels in the attic, but free span trusses means you can dry in the structure without putting up interior walls. I've been very happy with it. But if I ever need to change something on an outside wall, Matt is not wrong about the trouble I'm in. Interior sound levels are still very good, as are utility bills (I'm usually at half of what my friends are with wood frame houses). The other thing Matt does not mention is that bricks go very well on the outside of ICFs.

[@captainmorgan2307]

My family built an ICF house in Fort Worth. About 4000 sq ft 2 levels and basement. Yep, a basement in Texas. I couldn't have been happier with it. We went with 12" walls in the first and second floors and 18" in the basement. A basement in hot climates is incredible. Even if the AC went out it would stay at 65F all year.

[@lupusk9productions]

how much was it after all the concrete, icf blocks, and all that fun stuff?

[@jspallin]

Could you share who your builder was?

[@alanmalmberg1549]

Who was the builder and how much per sq. ft.? What type of roof? How much are your utilities? I am in Lewisville, TX so I know the heat here.

[@TahleelProdhan]

Would you please let me know the builder as well? Looking to build in DFW as well. Thanks!

[@ehhhhhhh682]

Live in TX and as well as the others here, I'd like to know too please..

[@DrVictoria]

My dad had our family home built out of ICF on Vancouver island about 20 years ago now, it was the first in the area and no builder had done ICF, but he was particular to have it done. Fabulous building.

[@apex3dhomedesign240]

As a General years ago, I went through a manufacturer's training and installed a 12' daylight basement foundation with ICF. Beautiful, solid system. A friend contracted in SIP construction company with fab facility that is now a conventional stud-framed panelizing business. I've designed homes in SIP and ICF, one utilized both systems and it is very efficient.

[@AnthonyVanKan]

I am a Registered Designer in New Zealand with 35 Year worth of experience. I liked your presentation, in that you explain the pros & Cons, you are not just a sponsors salesman. :-)

[@sarahcowman7559]

My wife and I built our dream home in Colorado 3 years ago. Contractor I worked with talked my out of modular and into ICF by comparing it to Lego bricks. Pretty simplistic, but I was sold. 3 years later the overall performance of the home is crazy. My winter propane bill runs about $100 per month in a neighborhood with homes spending 6 to 7 times that. We even have trouble using the fireplace because the radiant heat in the floors keeps the house warm. It's not too shabby in the summer. Due to engineering issues there is one area that has an exterior framed wall and in the really cold or hot periods there is a dramatic difference.

[@nick21614]

100 year old houses with barely any insulation with the old old boilers and radiators will be about half that :)

[@mrpush2532]

​@@nick21614how is that possible??

[@kaveac]

Matt, your comments on ICF were 100% accurate based on my experience with our previous home that was all ICF. Overall a fantastic house, but your comment on humidity in an ICF house was an insight that I never knew about and completely explained the condensation issue that we did have with the windows during winter. Definitely something to plan for. Awesome info you’re providing!

[@mwillup180]

I too would like to know the fix, besides maybe having to install a good dehumidifier.

[@kaveac]

Our house was in floor radiant heat which was amazing for comfort, however because the house was built to be super tight, and energy efficient, the builder made the mistake of thinking that a mini duct air handling system would be adequate. It wasn’t. We had an ERV unit but the mini duct air handling system just couldn’t move an adequate volume of air throughout the house and I suppose it couldn’t dump enough humidity out of the home ( about 5000 sq ft). We definitely needed a larger air handling system for the house. Perhaps we would have also needed an additional dehumidifier built into the system... but I’m not sure. I would definitely allow for that possibility. We bought the house built already so we were not involved in choices. The other mistake that the builder made was thinking that the home would not require A/C because it was an efficient ICF house. For sure the house has a ton of thermal mass which is great for super comfortable heating, but during summer and being fully exposed to the sun that thermal mass works against you if you don’t have a cooling system. Once the house mass was heated by summer heat it was very tough ( impossible) to cool off by opening windows for ventilation. We added two small mini split A/C units and it turned out that only one was really required to cool the entire house ( although it took excessively long to moderate throughout the house because of the inadequate air handling system. Bottom line : include a proper air handling system an HRV or ERV I would do central A/C Possibly add a dehumidifier to the system It was a great house for all the positive reasons Matt pointed out. In our case the builder misjudged air handling and A/C requirements.

[@kaveac]

@Star Gazer1212 I honestly don't remember the cost of the AC units... but I think they were a few thousand each (installed CDN$). I don't think that mini splits are the best option though (however it was the only system we could install in our scenario). If possible, I would opt for central air instead. We did not install a dehumidifier at the time, but I do see the value in doing so.

[@mwillup180]

kaveac thanks for the insight, I’m going to school for construction management, we haven’t talked much about ICF construction yet but we’re going through duct work and whatnot right now, so this is something I will definitely bring up to my instructors

[@davetaylor8614]

I build exclusively with ICF in the Southwest. The quite energy efficiency drives my passion for the product. Using a roll on waterproofing below grade termites aren't a issue, bedding a galvanized screen material in the roll on waterproof coating stops all mice,moles and voles. I was a commercial framing contractor for years and hate the new growth lumber we have today because it is weaker with higher percentages of wain compared to what was available in the 1980's. The math on energy is this, a stick frame house will drop 30 degrees in 15 hours with no heat source at 30 degrees F. A ICF house same conditions takes 84 to 96 hours to lose that amount of heat.

[@davetaylor8614]

Glyn , I am sorry you have found those problems with ICF but it shows you going behind jobs done by non professionals. I have never had one leak or fail.

[@esotericwoodworks]

I am a contractor in the extreme northeast, Maine coast! I've built all of these examples. I don't agree with your assessment of sips or traditional framing. the cost of spray foam in traditional framing is the cost of sip panels. Labor installing sips is one third that of traditional framing. Traditional framing failures in the Northeast are more common than you admit (or have knowledge of) pink insulation and traditional framing is a recipe for rot and mold, as well as air infiltration issues. I have never built a Bensonwood house...I have sworn to never build traditional again, but I WOULD do a Bensonwood house. building sip homes I have built panel over frame and have built hybrid "48 on center framing construction. I HAVE experienced the air leak problem...it's called "tea kettling" when the moist hot air leaks out the house looks like it a steaming tea kettle from the outside. THIS IS SUPER DESTRUCTIVE! I am a super fan of your show and your experience, your humility is a perfect example of how contractors should address their mistakes. You are an example for all of us. I am super interested in using the spray on vapor barriers you have highlighted on your show. They would be an excellent compliment to sip panel construction. I wish I could express myself better than leaving this comment. Anyway thank you for your show. also I buy my sips from "foam laminates of Vermont"

[@musaalkhadim5600]

Great follow up info agree about traditional. Matt is supporting the old while advertising the "new!" ICF are so much better than traditional on so many levels in every climate. Sips are awesome seen them when I was in Europe. They are far more advanced than in the US and maintain temps at awesome efficiencies. But again thanks for your insights. America has to move away from this planned obsolescence. It's defeating and cost are to high for us working class people...

[@mikedandar1171]

I agree with your assessment. I have built with all three as well, building predominantly with SIPs for the last 15 years. I haven’t done a stick frame in that same amount of time other than the garage here and there. I would never go back to the technology of the 1800’s (stick framing) We we planning to do a couple passive houses this year with SIPs which should help immensity the wall assembly. I only use Extreme Panel Technologies. I would love to see some of your projects.

[@musaalkhadim5600]

@@mikedandar1171 Why is the cost so much lower in Europe compared to America for Sips?

[@mikedandar1171]

Musa Alkhadim I haven’t looked at European prices. How much lower are you seeing?

[@stephentaylor9366]

SIP is an interesting and useful construction method. However, the possibility of leakage between segments on an exterior wall will always be an issue. If you look around the world, you’ll see structures built of cement based materials and they are literally hundreds of years old, having survived the rages of weather, war, and misuse by mankind. So, having said that, what is your hesitation to attempt construction of a solid concrete structure with insulation inside and outside? If your fears are labor costs, I can show you ways to build that will save you at least 1/2 that cost! This savings combined with the non-need for insulation materials (which by the way, are susceptible to moisture degradation when not completely protected from the elements), and a additional back-end future savings for the consumer in utility and home maintenance costs, makes it almost a no-brainer! What is not possible to demonstrate to the potential buyer is the experience of living in a home where dust is rare, every room is the same temperature, no exterior noise is heard, wind damage is nil, the air is clean, plumbing is so simple it’s almost pathetic, electrical costs are less, A/C and heat equipment costs are cut by 2/3 ( a big issue in extra warm or cold climates), home insurance is lower, and the list goes on and on. I will NEVER live in anything but a ICF house. It has literally saved me thousands of dollars.

[@jaredhulse5733]

I've been building with SIPs for nearly 20 years. I've done everything from small vacation cabins to 30,000 sq ft event/religious centers. MM&I Construction and Design does a fantastic job with the design work. Their own brand name panel, Renegade Panels, is by far the most superior panel on the market. Some of the cons you listed, while are partially true, can be alleviated by using an experienced SIPs builder. We've fixed crushed panels in the field, made electrical chases after drywall was installed, whatever needed to be done in the field. There are a few tricks to the trade, just like with any other building system.

[@heh38827]

Can you recommend an SIPs builder in the Dominican Republic?

[@dougmccollum7601]

Great video! As a Design/Build contractor for the past 18 years in Western Montana I have found that an ICF foundation (Superform ICF), Sips exterior walls (Bigsky R-Control) and R-50 blown in attic insulation is hard to beat. My first personal home was home built like this. Main floor 4000 sqft slab on grade (except for above the basement) and 850 sqft basement. I used hydronic in slab heat hooked up to an old school reliable Slant fin cast iron, NG boiler. Summer utility bills ran 170.00 ish (68°-71° no A/C) and winter right around 230.00 ish per month with T-stat @ 68°. Blower door tests were right on target. Never had any moisture buildup anywhere that I could find. Myself and two other guys put up a 40x24 Sips shop with 6.5"x12' walls. It took us right at 9 hours to erect, trusses on, roof blocking in, sheath with two rows of titanium underlayment up each eave. Sips are a slick way to build! If you use them for a complicated roof system you can build the roof in sections on the ground with a telehandler and have a crane come in one day and set the roof system (depending on size of the project). It is a way safer way for the workers to build a roof and cost effective too. Depending on the project, as the roof is on the ground you can run electrical in the panels, install sheetrock in the vaults and install part of your roof underlayment too. My ICF salesman is trying to get me to pull the trigger on a full ICF home but haven't taken him up on that yet. I'm kinda biased but I liken a stick frame house to a truck with carburetor verses a truck with direct injection. Like pex vs copper...... Innovation, research it and apply it. Whether your a builder or end consumer for most of us 90% of it is all about keeping money in your pocket (or your house standing after a Hurricane).

[@tangoq1]

I was also a contractor in Montana for 15 years. Built with both ICF and Sips. Big Sky R-Control is a top notch SIPs manufacturer. While you said Sips are f difficult to remodel, I have found the opposite to be true. This is especially true in non- load bearing walls. Just cut the rough opening, use a hot knife to cut the foam out, throw in your framing, and done. The other great aspect is finishing the house. You never have to cut drywall or siding to end on a stud. The walls are perfectly straight for cabinets or tile. And when building in a cold environment, once you're enclosed, you're also insulated.

[@kirkcardoso6137]

Hello Doug. I live in Ennis and looking to build out of ICF. Was wondering if you have any availability for this year. I've never used this product and figure it's best to leave it to the pros. Super form is who I was going to use for the block.

[@dougmccollum7601]

@@kirkcardoso6137 Good Morning Kirk, I'm the contracractor here in Montana. You left a comment on KZbin about my availability for building a structure for you. I was just making sure that you have that built. Sorry for the late reply. I don't usually leave comments on anything on the Tube let alone have somebody contact me.

[@kennyferns5463]

I've been in construction 36 years . I worked on an ICF house in 2008 I've been working with ICF ever since. I wouldn't build with any other type of construction can't recommend ICF enough it's brilliant.

[@Krieghandt]

Do you consider Adobe or rammed earth versions of ICF? just curious.

[@joshualruby]

@@Krieghandt As a fellow ICF advocate, I see no issues with those other options intrinsically. The final product is of good quality and thermally and air sealing speaking, they do a great job. The issue I have is in their deployment. Labor is a super expensive cost for building in first world nations, so fast and easy assembly is essential for economic viability. In developing nations where concrete is exorbitantly expensive or hard to procure, EPS manufacturers are slim to none, and the final price tag is less than $20k, those other options have great appeal. Any style that utilizes cheap materials in exchange for more labor bodes well for developing and very poorly for developed nations. I believe they have their place for the eccentric in developed regions, and for great use in developing. (And I may be misunderstanding your question: I have never heard of Adobe or rammed earth ICF. An insulated block filled with rammed earth? Seems difficult to employ at best. Filled with Adobe? Eh... I guess I would need to see examples. Both seem a bit like a spotty patchwork idea that doesn't blend the best of both worlds. )

[@Krieghandt]

@@joshualruby Adobe comes in preformed 'bricks' and are 'mortared' in place with more adobe. Rammed earth is just that, a form filled with earth (clay) and rammed down. I do see your point about labor costs. DIY adobe is cheap. Rammed earth requires more than a little skill and equipment.

[@anonimous2451]

Especially in storm prone area's. If you live in one of these area's you know exactly where they are. I built mine in S. Florida in 2008 and IF I ever have to build another home, it will certainly be ICF. Even if I was in Canada or Alaska. Superior building lasts almost forever. Just look at the house during hurricane Michael @ Mexico Beach in Florida. Almost indestructible and it did not collapse or fail. Minor Damage was incurred, but, your Insurance Company will love you if you build with ICF. They do offer significant discounts for these homes.

[@kostasg7109]

The rigid polystyrene board is very flammable and in places where forest fires are a concern this is probably not the best solution.

[@DasAlbatross]

Ahh, the good old days when the videos weren't just ads.

[@stevehoge]

Yeah these days I have to keep a shaker of salt handy when I see Matt's sponsorship credits roll by

[@johnraynor5095]

78yr old miner. Went to a mining show in Vegas years ago. They had a display using aggregate mixes with foam. Great strength and insulation. Would work great for footings and walls.

[@lucysmart1476]

I’m 19, I used ICFs and every time I talk to someone about it they say I don’t know what I’m talking about and that’s not even what they’re called. This makes me feel better. Just because I’m 19 doesn’t mean I haven’t used a product that someone else hasn’t.

[@jrcuevas777]

Nice. Way to go bro. My father is a general contractor and I convinced him to switch up and we’re starting in Arizona🤟

[@CarlosRodriguez-kb9jc]

I lived on the east coast of Puerto Rico when class 5 hurricane Hugo went directly over the island. The eye came tight over our house. The house was concrete construction. Throughout the night we had 3 palm trees come crashing onto the house. Nothing happened. If it had been stick construction, the would have destroyed the house.

[@chrisdaniel1339]

Bravo sir, you understood the risks and took the necessary steps to mitigated/ eliminate those risks and you and your family were safe and spared from the heartache of losing your home and everything in it. You should be the poster child of why building codes need to change. I hope building codes change in the USVI, FL, LA, AL, TX, and other coastal states that residential building/dwellings must be engineered/constructed to survive a CAT 4 hurricane or EF3 tornado. There is no need for FEMA and the US govt. i.e. the US taxpayers to be footing the bill for destroyed houses, some more than once because the owner chose to be cheap and build a stick-construction wood home in a storm prone location. Same building codes should be enacted for new construction/ rebuilding in tornado prone states.

[@trshuster]

Thank you Matt for being on the forefront of leading the way to building smarter and better.

[@jasoncunningham4439]

I've built two large custom homes with ICF, and five apartments out of SIP. I thought they were both brilliant till I built with them, then I thought they were a really bad idea, now I know their place in the toolbox. Personally I'd use ICF for foundations and walls, and use SIP for walls and roofs, but having spent time in water damage, mold and construction defect I'd be very careful about SIP envelope. Either way you build three of them before you can say you're qualified and profitable

[@panamericaco]

Worked on an ICF house years ago. 2.5 million turned into 4 million with all the problems it caused the customer. One of the biggest issues was that the drywallers couldn't mount the drywall in any easy way because the plastic would strip, or be offset, etc so they were drilling hundreds of holes to find those strips. Same with crown mould, no proper way to mount it as well as the walls were terribly wavy.

[@robertlaird6746]

I've built one SIP home from the foundation to finish, about 40 wood stud homes from the foundation to finish, one timber frame home from the foundation to finish, one wood geodesic dome home from the foundation to finish that is 5,342 plus sq. ft. and one large custom metal home with no wood at all. It was a three story structure. About half of all of the homes I've built were hi end for the rich and famous, the other half were for the middle income family. I also have worked on about 40 ICF jobs where we just came in and did the ICF block. The jobs that we did were all between 12 and 22 ft. hi walls. I personally like using ICF as a raised foundation and then use SIP's for your walls and ceiling. Now if you build that way, you might as well build a timber frame for the beauty of it and wrap it with SIP's. My dad designed Fox block but the owners of Fox block stole my dads patent since my dad only had a US patent. Fox block started building my dads block on the East cost of Canada and now distribute and possibly manufacture it in the USA as well but it takes a lot to fight big business and sometimes one can't afford to do so or even has the energy to deal with something like that. I was part of the crew on most of these jobs and then became the boss. Now, my wife and I build everything ourselves from the ground up with our own hands and with no hired help. One of our future projects will be about a 72 ft. diameter metal pipe geodesic dome garage and then we will use SIP's to panel it. I don't think it's been done before but that's our plan.

[@zorroonmilkavitch1840]

Just wondering on the metal pipe geodesic Dome are you like crimping the ends and bolting all the pipes together or how are you doing that sounds like a cool ass job! I had some friends back in early 70s built a dome on top of a log cabin up by Canada and they used two by fours drilled through the ends and by using a banding system around a 4 inch pipe Hub we're able to put up a geodesic dome by using a lot of scrap pieces of two-by-four with relatively no cost

[@robertlaird6746]

@@zorroonmilkavitch1840 I'm thinking of using a pipe connector that is different than the pinched end pipe style since the pipe will be heavier gage. There are several systems available or the designs of those connector's through online groups such as Acidome.ru :: Geodesic dome calculator on Facebook for one example. I'm Facebook friends with some of these people and they post some amazing things that has lead me to different and stronger ways to build geodesic dome structures. I'm going to give it a try. Now if you beat me to it, give me the credit as giving you the inspiration or something like that because I'd like to be the first but don't really want the limelight. I'd just like to be mentioned after I'm dead.

[@mikedandar1171]

Sorry about your dad with Fox blocks. I would love to see your next project.

[@scottielittlestar8949]

I built several houses in new mexico with a similar product in the 90s and was able to go back last month to see a few and they looked like I built them last week owners love them

[@erikaryan]

Scottie Littlestar which product? SIP?

[@joearmstrong-nelson5722]

My wife and I built our retirement home in Idaho from 2009 thru 2011 using Quadlock ICFs for the basement with 8" concrete and 8" SIPs on the upper level. We did a conventional truss ceiling with 12-14" of blown in insulation. We heat with a wood pellet fired boiler feeding pex tubing in the floors and zoned for the best heat distribution. We love the whole concept and really like staying warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Biggest problem with the ICFs was being able to hit the plastic ties with sheetrock screws and for the cement board on the outside. Otherwise we are very glad we went the way we did.

[@zackmeuth]

Would love to hear more about your build, thinking about this type of build in the future.

[@johnbecich9540]

Thank you for this unique and useful dissertation, with pros and cons, of framing methods. The huge warning on the need for waterproofing of traditional framed construction is most appreciated. Countless tutorials teach framing, and installation, and waterproofing, without stressing the fundamental weakness of the traditional framing paradigm, itself. That is, a traditional framed house hides a lot of sins, but they can accumulate to "get you"!

[@adubbelde1]

I built our house with ICF's for the foundation and the main floor is a DELTEC. We're sheathed with 5/8" plywood and 1" of foam and the stud bays are filled with 2# closed cell foam. The basement has 2" of foam under the floor and in floor heat. The basement is incredibly easy to heat and very comfortable. It is a walkout with 2 large windows and a patio door. My wife and I stacked the ICF's and we had a contractor place the concrete. He vibrated the concrete as he placed it. I have a friend here that strictly builds with SIPs from Extreme panel. He's fastidious about sealing and always uses an ERV.

[@mikedandar1171]

adubbelde1 He’s with the best panel manufacturer out there! 😊

[@RealMrYouTube]

I have built all three types. When I build my own it will be with ICF.

[@briannalaurel3973]

Mr KZbin Is ice good if I want a colder house ?

[@jamessavage6090]

Are you basing your"when i build my owen" decision on location,(harsh inviroment),or the ICF as a physically structure is a superior built???

[@whyisblue923taken]

@@briannalaurel3973 Not OP, but if you can pump the heat out, yes. The concrete keeps the heat out so you need to pump some of the heat out and it will take less energy to do and it will stay cooler.

[@gregwitkamp5583]

Most ICF forms are treated to prevent termite infestation

[@iancorbridge2367]

Great video and content. Thanks Matt. I recently built and ICF cabin. The cabin is in the mts. in the PNW and had to cary a snow load of 270lbs per SF... crazy!!! As such we had tons of engineering requirements which included lots of rebar, columns, etc. I should have worked more closely with our engineer to spec things out to avoid constant headaches. Our vert rebar from the footer to stem wall was 12"O/C which caused problems with the 6" ICF internal plastic webbing. Const bending bar back and forth for the first four levels of blocks. Secondly, our horizontal rebar was 9"O/C while the ICF block 'Build Block' had lock down holdings for rebar at 16"O/C. This meant we had to slide multiple piece of bar down one end, lay blocks, slide the bar back and tie. A huge pain. I'm not sure what could have been done, but it would have been nice to work more closely with the engineer to use larger bar and less of it. Lesson learned for the next house.

[@jaymckimm1678]

Yes, a year ago was a while for you original input here, but here is something that you and others have learned amid the styro block form media blitz. Don't use these blocks if you want strength. Monolith pour, then insulate with foam both sides. It is structurally more satisfying, easier, and at the end of cure, during form stripping you will see how good of a perfect job you have right in front of your eyes. Foam forms, you cannot. And you will always wonder, where the segregation occurred. Some day you may want to bolt something to the wall hidden in inside the form, and a surprise awaits: porosity and pebbles.

[@ahappyeskimo]

If you want a house with a custom frameless corner window, use ICF. The ICF will be able to keep the R-value around that window pretty consistan.

[@garyclayton2079]

Matt, we just finished our 32 nd ICF home. Including a 22,000 s.f. In Tampa Bay, Fl. Primarily have used Logix and Buildblock. Also several houses with Insuldeck floor systems. Two homes with Spider Tie roof systems. Not a big fan of spider tie! As an Architect, I tell my clients that insulation in the wall system is not the main reason for using ICF walls. Since we are in Florida (wind zones over 140 mph) the main reason for ICF walls is structural and second is sound proofing. As we don’t have heat loss, rather heat gain in Florida there is typically more heat gain through our fenestration than through our walls. Anyway, we all enjoy your videos. Regards, Clayton

[@bloogaming8827]

Very cool to see someone experienced with the product! Just wondering if you have a preferred roof system

[@micco6020]

Ditto

[@CalicoArchives]

When building an ICF home are basements also done in ICF or traditional concrete?

[@t.r.766]

@@CalicoArchives built my basement with the Nudura ICF system used a special concrete mix design to be guaranteed waterproof. Very high ammonia as i remember. We poured a 18 inch reinforced bathtub like floor with 3 ft of wall stem then afterwards set the ICF walls up using the slab floor. Made for easy works to keeping everything plum. The room is a dream it’s Allways cool in the hot CA summer and a consistent 65-68 in the winter.

[@ffjsb]

I have a modular home on a ICF basement. I can 100% back the statement about not being the "guinea pig". The idiot that did mine didn't brace it right and there was a bow in the top of the wall. Luckily it wasn't structural, and I was able hide it. The basement is a constant temp year round. As for building an entire house out of them, you can easily put in L or J bolts at the top when it's poured, so you can bolt down a top plate to attach a roof to no problem.

[@timhale501]

ICF we partnered with another contractor, went to 2 training sessions with Quad lock then started working with A DIY home owner to get him started. Quad lock comes with separate foam panels then the interlocking plastic spacers. MORE labor intensive than other companies but has lots of options . different thickness of foam , ability to cast in a concrete brick ledge, ability to build radius walls. To use an ICF floor and roof system you need scaffolding, form decking, adjustable jacks used to build freeway bridges. and be able to get your jacks out after your pour. We did an addition on a ski lodge in an avalanche zone and the roof had to have 12 inches of reinforced concrete designed so the avalanche could slide over the roof and not put pressure on the back walls.

[@ringtail995]

I have been planning to build a Timber Frame home, and I'm still watching all types of plans. But I always watch all stuff on new material or new technology on construction material. While I was living in Central America, I played a lot of attention to their unique ways of engineering with concrete blocks. I saw many down sides to their block construction. But one day I saw a construction method that blew my mind. Sadly not many people would could accept something new. This system eliminated every flaw of block construction. It was a wire mash panel on the outside, then a styrofoam core, and another wire mash panel on the inside. They put vertical rebar in the foundation along all walls. Then they connected the 4' x 8' panels (various sizes available) to the rebar with wire. (I thought a wire feed welder would be much faster. Then the plumbers and electrician cut channels in the styrofoam for their plumbing and electrical wiring. They go through the house cutting out the wire and styrofoam for all doors and windows.then they insert wood into the door and window opening. No headers are needed as the entire house is one giant double wire mesh strong framework. Then before building the second floor or roof structure, the sprayed alight coat of concrete on everything inside and out side. Then the repeat it 2 more times. Then they put on a finishing layer finishing cement. They do the same for stairs, second level floors, second level walls, car ports and balconies. Then they do the same for the roof, Then place what ever type of roofing right over the concrete. Now you have a solid double web of (?)2" x 2" wire mash over the entire home with 1" or 2" concrete inside and outside. With a solid core of 2" to 4". (or wider is available) This also greatly reduces the vertical weight on the second floor structure. It seals your heat or cold inside the home. And blocks the heat or cold from the outside. I wish I could remember what it was called. But can not remember, I've got it in an external hard drive that will not open. I've also seen this new construction with these structurally designed blocks like Lego blocks. I know nothing about it but it looks amazing. It is strong possibility for my option on my first level daylight, foundation and garage. Ringtail's Woodworking, Timber Frame, and Boat Building 'FILO'

[@kobzar5398]

My company assembles ICF for many clients in BC Canada. Love this product and recomend to all clients. We also frame, and form conventional concrete foundations. Hands down ICF the best.🙌👍😎

[@alanward3400]

What ICF block brand do you use?

[@royallandllc348]

Alan Ward I have been researching ICF’s for my build. Checkout Nudura, Buildblock and Logix are at the top of my short list. All have some unique nuances all good

[@tapuzak]

Good stuff Matt. I prefer SIPS as they perform extremely well and save my team (and me) considerable time. The performance is unreal. Cost is higher but after time and performance considerations it’s a win.

[@mikedandar1171]

Thomas Puzak I agree it’s a win.... how can a person put a dollar value on comfort, safety, indoor air quality, etc.... A home owner is money ahead building this way. 👍👍

[@MikeV8652]

I built my 1,014 sq. ft. SIP house in SW Texas in 2009, after changing my mind from ICFs when I learned about SIPs. I designed it myself, had the plans drawn by an experienced SIP planner, got my SIPs from SIPS Texas in Kerrville, and used carpenters who'd built one SIP house before. Everything went super smoothly, and I'm very happy with it to this day. I have stone veneer on the exterior. The best part is my electric bills, which run about $400 per YEAR (with electric central AC and gas central heat).

[@riversd5]

We built a timber frame sip home in 2004. We used Vermont Frames and Foam Laminates of Vermont. We also used an architect who had worked closely with this same organization. The timber-frame assemblers were also part of the same association. We found sub contractors in carpenters, electricians, plumbers, sheet rockers and also did lots of work on our own. We installed the radiant heat system from Radiantec. Couldn’t be happier. Oh we did install a Mitsubishi mini split Heating & AC heat pump recently...primarily for the AC. Would recommend others to this same team.

[@honuswagner9348]

Cool story bro.

[@martinfoster5163]

I considered every method that you mentioned but I am in Mongolia so the availability of materials was a factor. What I ended up using was steel Sandwich panels for a quick build, maximum insulation and something I could do myself. I think this might be an underrated and less well-known method of construction. Also, it’s actually quite affordable in Mongolia due to local panel manufacture. I used a 4 x 4 frame similar to barn style and then screwed the panels directly to the posts and beams. It’s only a single story so it wasn’t necessary to create an incredibly strong frame and the panels themselves are very light.

[@vilivont4436]

I had the same idea, could you provide any photos of the house?

[@sumiyamunkhbaatar3550]

Hi, I am from Mongolia. I would like to learn more about the house you have built in Mongolia and how it's doing during the winter. Can you connect on social media?

[@jimmypalmisano7484]

Man I love the way you do products overviews it’s helped me so much in my business, because when someone asks what do you recommend I have five different options for them to chose from, thanks once again Matt

[@doubledarefan]

Matt said get an ICF contractor who've built several houses already. What if you just opened an ICF construction business❓ Here's a start: Build yourself an ICF shed. Then build ICF sheds, toy houses, and garages for family and friends. That should help you build enough experience to not guinea pig your customers.

[@JTamilio]

Or go work for a good ICF contractor for a few years first... Apprenticeship is an amazing thing and it would be tremendously valuable to return to that type of learning system.

[@doubledarefan]

@Kenneth Bosley Yes. Also, build your own business building, and use that as your showpiece as well. Should have mentioned that in the first place.

[@mwillup180]

I can imagine in some places it would be hard to find contractors to work under since it’s a newer concept. Thus bringing your only option to invest in your own projects. I personally like the idea of doing a storage facility since it’s low maintenance.

[@SegoMan]

@Kenneth Bosley The first house build you sell to your enemy. The second house build you sell to your friend. the 3rd house build you keep.

[@altergreenhorn]

ICF is not a bad idea however: 0:55 the main flaw in ICF system is insolation inside the walls at least that is a substantial problem in the EU and this is the reason why ICF isn't a major player in EU despite the fact that energy efficient houses are by the law a must in the majority of EU countries, not to forget a majority of houses in EU are built as solid houses (bricks & concrete as major material) In the last years some ICF producer are trying to overcome that problem with different material inside and outside but right now not really successful.

[@Howtofarmandgarden]

I built a house in NW Mt with SIP. That was 30 years ago. It has been, and continues to be amazing. It is very quiet, easy to heat and cool.. The 3200 ft two story went up in four days.

[@ambrosecars2124]

Korwall SIPS, Arlington, Texas. NEVER had a problem. GREAT engineering. Attention to detail and customer service. I will soon be building 80 SIP home in my own subdivision. Not a fan of concrete homes. My SIPS are so well engineered I can build the outer wall in ONE day. These guys are the best.

[@boots7859]

OSB SIPS are not worth the hassle and eventual rotting.

[@covertops.]

If I ever get to build my dream house, it will definitely be with ICFs.

[@phillipsimmons4617]

I used ICF construction for my basement 22 years ago the only thing I would have done differently is construct the entire house out of it!

[@TheMarpalm]

Phillip Simmons built an ICF house a couple of years ago and love it

[@adamarndt7617]

I feel like the noise aspects of SIP vs. ICF was completely missed here and is definitely important in any dense urban or suburban environment. SIPs pass far more road and aircraft noise vs. traditional framing and rock wool insulation which pass var more vs. ICF. "Comfort" isn't just about temperature and drafts; noise matters, too.

[@olehserhiyenko1694]

I've build SIP house and added external rock wool insulation - 6 inch Neopor inside SIP + 4 inch rock wool. From inside covered everything with foamed polyethylene plus drywall on top of it. No issues with outside noise at all, I can easily miss airplane flying 1 mile above the house (near airport) when all windows and doors are closed.

[@psalmy26]

3:30

[@101peligroso]

@@olehserhiyenko1694 HOw thick are the walls then?

[@chrisgiles1694]

I have a Icf house 10 years old in california it was about 10% more then stick house and took about 10% longer to build put oro coat on outside like stucco but made from resin and ground tires already has color in it Love it

[@reubencoblentz6854]

I have built with sip wall systems from insulspan out of Blissfield Mi. great company, when you do everything correctly, wonderful product, have no complaints, many happy customers.

[@barbaracollier2272]

Love your show Matt would like to see something on 3D printed homes.

[@circusofsix]

yes!

[@parkwayconcepts8758]

I've built some SIPS cabins at a couple of camps and they were insulated so well! Mid summer and the geothermal air conditioners hardly ran at all.

[@hailexiao2770]

Geothermal HVAC in SIPS cabins? Talk about overkill

[@hailexiao2770]

@Cbeddoe19 Good luck on that evacuated tube solar heating project! Always happy to see how other people approach problems. I would have gone for solar PV and ductless heat pumps (and maybe some electric storage) and called it a day.

[@hailexiao2770]

@Cbeddoe19 Raw efficiency is definitely lower with solar PV, but combined with a 200-400% efficient heat pump it's easily competitive with solar thermal, and probably cheaper too.

[@aztecdragon5229]

What conpanycompany did you use?

[@richbecks7036]

I am doing an AirBnB Farm Share project with 1000 sf SIP cabins. Could you share the company you used. ?

[@samholden7563]

Great video Matt, very informative. I feel like I have been doing exactly what you mentioned by applying the pros of the other systems to traditional framing. I am doing my apprenticeship through a carpentry outfit in central BC Canada. We specialize in building energy efficient houses, as well as pride ourselves in building the first “Net Zero Ready” houses in BC. This house has and icf foundation, with traditional framing components throughout the rest of the house. Our exterior walls are made of 2x6 walls with blown insulation. On the exterior side we used a foam product called halo exterior that was 2” thick, and interra on the inside that is 1.5” thick. The entire house is heated solely by a heated concrete slab in the basement and main floor. Much like the SIP’s product most of our houses are pre assembled in a factory and arrive in panels that we set on site. We have also done a prairie wall system that we hand framed. It consists of two 2x4 walls spaced 2” apart with the studs offset to eachother and tied together at the top with plywood giving us a total of 9” of Blown insulation. I believe that with this house in particular we used a special vapour barrier paint instead of poly of the interior side. I’d love to hear your thoughts Matt, take care!

[@greggrills4122]

Hello Matt,I am a ICF contractor as well as framer,General contractor from Red Deer, Alberta ,Canada.As for cost difference, it seems to work out from 3-5% more,for a complete home ,cost wise over a conventional framed home.As for the roof system,it can be either ICF,,Sips or conventional system.Personally,the ICF is my number one choice.Fast,efficient construction with easily addapted changes made on site. and energy efficient.As for remodels, it is actually easier and usually cheaper to create a wall opening in ICF as structural integrity is not a issue.Enjoyed watching your video.

[@markhstevenscms904]

Matt This is Mark Stevens,CMS, I've left you comments before, 41 years in Mechanical & Electrical Contracting along the East Coast and 28 years as a Mech/Elec Contractor in the Tampa Bay Area, I've worked almost every typre of construction from Residential, Commercial, and Multifamily framing to Commercial and Industrial steel and Concrete construction including Hi-Rises up to 42 stories(trying not to brag here) I've commented on some of your stuff before, you put on some great videos, --------One thing I know I haven't mentioned was I married the daughter of a General Contractor, Basically a family run business, his five sons, Daughter all work for him and he started out contracting with Jim Walters back in the 70's I believe, and while he does do a lot a stick framing where he can he pushes for and usually convinces the customers to do additional structural framing inside of the of the BELCO ICP's, and SMARTBLOCK Lego type lock together type forms he does a lot of that are later filled with concrete in a ladder type channels, and as he builds(and RE-Builds) along the beach and barrier islands he has a staff engineer that actually often designs the additional reinforcement frames inside of the structures and thinks they each have their place depending were he builds, --------------One thing he learned that I think you mentioned was he uses SIP's the roofsand has learned to seal from below using POLYBUTYL Calk so as NO moisture seeps up and rots the roofing from below, he also INSISTS on a self sealing membrane on the entire roof, overkill he's often told, ---------but he gets ALL his SIP's from a company called Structall they patented their own locking system and started out making small enclosures to house GTE's switches and Cell tower equipment and with them you can actually order any combination of exterior cladding bonded to the foam Metal/Metal, OSB/OSB, Plywood/Plywood, of any combo there of, Because My Father-in-Law often (RE-)Builds along the coast he has a good working relationship with Structall and usually special orders 1/4" inside-1/2"Outside Marine grade Plywood on the SIPs he uses, if anyone objests or theres an issue I've seen hom order Aluminum inside and out and ROLL Liquid Nails Sub flooring adhesive to the walls and the secure the wood to the exterior, (they have aluminum channels every so many feet embedded in the foam and have you EVERY tried to pry anything apart that's been glued down with liquid nails? Anyway FYI you asking about SIP's, they started making kits based off drawings about 1993 to expand their market, I believe they added a factory in Louisiana, And after South Florida was destroyed be a couple hurricanes in a row, I was witness to them having an 8" thick by 44 foot long by 8 foot tall panel subjected to 154+ MPH winds that was UNSUPPORTED except for each end to prove their panels would exceed the South Florida Wind standards, the wall flexed but did not fail, as said it was NOT supported anywhere along its 44 foot length except for the ends,. ***ONE THING 'I'D LIKE TO POINT OUT, As you mentioned, these buildings don't have anywhere NEAR the heating or cooling load other buildings do but many engineers designing them can't get that through their thick heads, I typically run my OWN load calcs using Wrightsoft software and end up with 1/3 -to 1/2 the size equipment I normally install, never the less to account for Meeting rooms, Surgical Suites, and dance halls, etc. I DO NOT install single speed standard efficiency HVAC equipment. I TRY to convince them to go with multi-stage or Variable Speed cooling/Heating equipment guarantying that they will save on their utility bills..... And in one Day Surgery building after going back and forth with a know it all Architect/Engineer who partially listened to me, he decided that he would neutralize the excess cooling by creating a false load using electric reheat boxes in the ductwork above the ceiling just prior to is exiting the perforated supply grills supplying conditioned air to each suite. after looking at the new plans I told them he was crazy and they'd be hit with $20,000+ bills from Electric Utility as soon as the weather warmed each summer. I was off by about $1000-$2000 a month, he was effectively neutralizing all but 1 or 2 tons of 80 tons of cooling with electric reheat . Needless to say the owners where livid But if you wish to check into Structall Building systems in OLDSMAR, FLORIDA, just outside of Tampa,.not far from Tampa international Airport They actually built two homes and single story and a two story under various stages of construction, I was in the two story one 93F day in August with the 2nd floor open to the 1st and they were actually maintaining 75F inside while 93f outside GOOGLE MAPS LINK WITH THEIR WEBSITE www.google.com/maps/place/Structall+Building+Systems/@28.042077,-82.6527149,513m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m13!1m7!3m6!1s0x88c2ec755e8daf5f:0x8590d97c15c68e39!2sLafayette+Blvd+%26+Tampa+Rd,+Oldsmar,+FL+34677!3b1!8m2!3d28.0336063!4d-82.6486521!3m4!1s0x88c2ec776af2a925:0x7ed0290d6bf8b653!8m2!3d28.0429261!4d-82.6520146?hl=en&authuser=0

[@markhstevenscms904]

structall.com/ kzbin.infofeed

[@thulsakhan]

I own an ICF (Insulated concrete form) house it is 2800 sf and It costs about $250 per month for ALL my utilities, it is quiet airtight and very very solid, teens can slam doors as hard as they want and a picture hung inches away never moves. However, cutting through the walls is an industrial sized challenge!

[@unknownium275]

Used nudura icf for years primarily basements and foundations combined traditional framing on upper stories. Hard to beat traditional framing for adjusting down the road but icf for basements and foundation was nothing less than stellar.

[@nickeckemoff7631]

ICF seems like the best option. Concrete is more durable and outlasts tree carcasses. I'm pretty sure most walls lean or bow if you check with a level, especially after wood settles...certainly not possible to have straight walls with 2x4s. They all have the same moisture problems, but ICF would get my vote for that too. SIPs seem pointless once you're looking at traditional framing and spray insulation. The honest reason why you don't build out of rock/concrete/brick is because stick framing is that is the cheapest option and most people aren't thinking long term (10, 30+ years)...many modern houses are almost designed to be disposable.

[@ghost101049]

ICF Would almost certainly be much more expensive than metal like a barndinium right?

[@scottlurken9667]

I built my first “dream home” with ICF back in 2000. The sub that did the ICF work was not experienced and I ended up with a wall that 1 1/2” out of plum on 8’. I also had a roofer who did not properly flash the hip roofs, and I ended up with small water falls in the interior space below the roof joints. So, you will need subs that are not in the early phases of the learning curve with ICF construction. Cost wise; the home was a total of 3,000 square feet and the cost impact was $12,000. In the end however, it is a superior building which sustained the force of two direct hits of major hurricanes in 2004. Energy was another huge advantage: total monthly cost averaged $80 consistently over the 10 years I lived there.

[@CalicoArchives]

When building an ICF house is the foundation a traditional concrete slab/basement or is that also done in the "ICF" way?

[@scottlurken9667]

@@CalicoArchives All ICF. Works as well below grade.

[@bikerbobcat]

I'm an HVAC contractor by day and artist by night and I'm designing for a total demo/rebuild of our house just outside of Washington, DC. The design will be modern with walkable roof and I'm really torn between ICF, SIPS and stick framing. We're working with a design/build firm to make sure its all done right (and not just pretty). High wind events aren't much of an issue but it sure does get hot and sometimes real cold here and moisture is definitely an issue in The Swamp (more than just a catchy political name) so no basement at all. This and the ICF video I saw earlier are really helpful. So many choices and things to consider. Keep up the great work and be safe out there in the field.

[@miltoslakkotrypis]

Hi. Great work with your videos. I am an Architect and Energy Expert from Cyprus and i have to say about the ICF system, that there is one con. The thermal capacity of the concrete is canceled, since there is an internal insulation. How is concrete gonna heat up from the heating of the house? You yourself said two things that contradict each other. You first say that when the house is heated from the inside, the concrete mass is gonna heat up, but afterwards you say that it takes a lot of time for the concrete to heat up from the heat of the day. The first thing you say is wrong and the second is true for both interior and exterior of the house since the thermal insulation is the same width on both sides. Thank you.

[@willdejong7763]

Of course it is a little more complicated than what was said in the video, he simplified it to keep it short. With ICF there's two layers of foam insulation, internal and external, sandwiching the concrete. The insulation slows heat transfer to and from the concrete from both the inside and the outside. The insulation is not perfect, it does not stop heat transfer, it just slows it down, so the thermal mass of the concrete can still make a difference. With the insulation about the same on both sides the concrete ends up close to the daily average temperature of both the inside and the outside. This is beneficial if there are big temperature swings day vs. night. Maybe Cyprus does not see large daily temperature variations, so the thermal mass is not as helpful there as it is in other places?

[@maaskeimorgen]

I'm also skeptical about the ICF. Your point is good. It's sort of confused, the way he said it, and also the way you replied. What I was thinking is that I can't imagine how to avoid bridges thermal bridges that connect with the concrete, and effectively half the insulation, but that's an entirely different thing. And its unusual for me to see concrete without reinforcement... I study construction engineering in Denmark, lol. Anyway there are indeed fluctuations in the outside temperature that are interesting to treat in your design process. I think what most modern builds will need to accomodate for in daily fluctuations, are spikes during the summer days. On those days you want to have thermal mass that even out your internal temp (and keep from overheating in the day ; on some cool summer nights you'll even profit from the slow burning thermal walls... also WAY more significantly if you put more of the insulation on the outside than on the inside, lol.) In the winter it's a different story. In some old fashioned arctic structure you'll have a huge thermal oven in the middle of the house that'll keep the inside of the house warm until the morning so you don't have to stay up and put firewood on. But talking about these things functioning anything like that is just ... ill conceived. Also, YOU DO NOT WANT YOUR WALLS TO COOL DOWN. slowly cooling walls arent a good thing, they shouldnt get cold at all! With an even amount of insulation on the inside and outside of the concrete you'll want it to be no less than 10 degrees celcius, I'm sure... should you somehow have heated them up by any significant amount, then don't hope to gain more than 1/5 of that because your temp difference to the outside will be much larger than the temp difference to the inside. "its gonna wanna stay warm and the cold is gonna have a hard time coming in" yes maybe if its a bit of a chill that's there for just one night, but it's gonna be there for half a bloody year! its just so so wrong lol. this guy honestly has very little energy cred in my eyes.

[@willdejong7763]

@@maaskeimorgen I'm not going to go over everything here, just wanted to point out that ICF is reinforced, the ICF panels have built in supports for the rebar to attach to. Cheers!

[@boedillard8807]

Would definitely appreciate more ICF videos - siding, adding additional insulation - either to the inside or the outside, adding internal walls but showing the wiring and plumbing part. Also attaching the roof and the ceiling/floor.

[@jimji2774]

Plumbing should be put in interior walls and floor only. Electrical wire is stuffed in a chase cut in the foam with electric chain saw (really) and works great. Outlets are foam glued in place. Roof is no different than traditional framing as a wood 2x is bolted to top of ICF wall to screw or nail to. Floor is a little harder as perimeter joists must be anchor bolted to ICFs. Best outer finish is synthetic stucco over stucco wire air stapled to plastic ribs every 8" in ICF's which also holds drywall inside.

[@jeffbrunswick5511]

Great video. I would like to suggest that you avoid the use of acronyms. You may be familiar with them, but the people learning about the topic will not be and this creates confusion. This was still an excellent and very informative video. Many thanks.

[@wymanedwards351]

I’ve built houses using Fox Block as you mentioned as well as SIPs. Both systems worked great. I did like the SIPs a little better because it came with the roof panels which really made a big difference. I’d never heard about ICF roofs. The SIPs I used at first were made locally by a friend of mine who had a small manufacturing company. After he moved away I switched to Winter brand panels and they worked well too. Both systems were great but I found that building such airtight houses the owners have ended up using air exchangers.

[@puravidadreams1591]

Build Block has roof ICF panels

[@dancin4]

We had an ICF home built in WI in 2013. Energy saving were good but most contractors don't know how to attach decks or awning style roofs to the exterior. I wished they had 1.5" ribs to attach to when we built. And had anchored some metal brackets for the exterior 2ond floor deck. Contractor was not the best...went out of business shortly after our house was 90% complete. Many subs were not professionals. Now we are in a 2x6 framed house on slab in Central Florida. Single pane windows leaking air and sound. We are looking for good hurricane resistant replacements. Winters here are much easier, but we don't see the seasons change like up north. But summers are much hotter and humid than what we had been used to.

[@alane6555]

Matt, One other building form I wish you would've included, Monolithic Domes. I'd like to see how they compare to ICF's as both are good for circular wind. Thanks for so many great videos.

[@mountainvalleysunshine7228]

Done ICF basement walls with traditional framing above grade mostly. Blue skin sticks to it nicely, still need the black dimple for protection from the backfill.

[@here_we_go_again]

Hi Matt, Probably also worth mentioning Cross Laminated Timber Construction (CLT) which is showing promising results for multi-storey apps. Really great video. Greetings from the UK - TIEMANN & Co Chartered Structural Engineers.

[@bking6591]

Helped on a DIY home build a few years back with a family that suffered a house fire. They did the basement themselves and everything was fine framing, putting trusses up but once we went to deck the roof the 4x8 osb wasn't lining up and after much head scratching we figured out the foundation was out of square by almost 3 inches corner to corner. That made for a long day

[@tomkelly8827]

I live in Canada and I have built basements with ICF's and loved it. I have framed and added 2" of foil faced foam on the outside of a 2x4 home and it was nice and warm! We built a couple straw bale homes in timberframed structures, they took a while but are reall nice and ogranic looking and very very warm. I have no ICF experience. Minimal log building experience. Even though it is not as sexy as some alternatives, framed homes are my favourite to build. ICF basement with framed home with foam insulation, metal roof, wood or stone siding and drywall inside. Passive solar, wood heating, yeah I like that

[@AndyFromm]

My house was built by students, I built the same house when I was in school. The walls are traditional but are double studs staggered about 11inch total width. Its cheep to heat in Minnesota.

You still have thermal looping due to the air in the insulation with that construction method.

[@AndyFromm]

@ i never said it was perfect. my brother lives just down the road from me, he has about the same size & style house but only single stud external walls, and about 20 years newer. He uses double the propane to heat his house.

[@jeffreyquinn3820]

Along a similar line, a former coworker had a 5,400 square-foot, 3-storey ICF house built a few hundred miles north of Toronto according to a design popular in Scandinavia since the 1970s that incorporated a lot of passive heating and cooling. He had a lot of issues with builders doing things the 'North American' way and having to tear down and rebuild, and eventually had to supervise things himself on his lunch breaks and after work. Someone else built a similar-sized ICF house in the 'North American' way. My coworker's monthly January & February heating bills are about $10, while the 'North American' way only reduced heating costs by about %30 from hollow-wall framing. Apparently there are quite a few contractors closer to Toronto that do ICF a lot better, though.

[@cjimcook]

@@jeffreyquinn3820 Would love to hear how the "North American way" messed things up. Matt Risinger, can you help? This is a great opportunity to learn what NOT to do by example (if possible).

[@ModernMountainLiving]

@@AndyFromm Insulation is an investment, but a utility bill isn't.

[@travelingkaspersworld4096]

Glad you mention +Joe Lstiburek, I can never understand his talks until you have reviewed them. Looking forward to viewing the videos you mention 18:02 Many many thanks to all involved

[@BoojumFed]

Never built with SIPs, but I've done insurance work on it. Yeah, just about every time there's an issue due to construction it's because someone missed detail work or miss-sealed a joint.

[@hammerhead2357]

In Vancouver BC, we have been doing a SIP hybrid wall for all of our ADUs and full size Passive houses for 12 years. We design panel drawings in house so we are able to optimize the benefits of SIPs and make sure that the installation is simple and accurate. In our hybrid system, we typically use a 6” SIP wall with a vapour barrier primer and SIGA taped joints and a 4-7” interior insulated service cavity. This is a system that we have proved to be scalable. When somebody comes to us to design and build a house, they always get a certifiable passive house.

[@braedonschumann5954]

We are a commercial panel manufacturer our of Utah/Idaho. We deal in traditional frame panels, but it's an intriguing concept to panelize with SIPS

[@mikedandar1171]

Braedon Schumann Extreme Panel Inc has been doing some apartments and motels with sips in the Twin Cities area.

[@ernielarkin4793]

I disagree with the roof system premise on ICF's. You simply put anchor bolts on the top of the wall for a plate, like any conventional masonry wall.

[@jacksonrogers9254]

Ernie Larkin that’s exactly how we are doing our ICF home. It’s a no brainer.

[@ernielarkin4793]

I've never seen anyone here do a sip roof on top of ICF walls. I think you have more options in a conventional truss set up. Especially if you want to spend the money on spray foam and make a cold roof.

[@2F51RL]

​@@ernielarkin4793 ; I totally agree with the “cold roof” approach. Keeps the heat out at the get-go. In the early 90's had PU spray foam put on a sad corrugated iron roof in the hot arid outback. Finished with titanium oxide white roof paint to protect the foam, and the result was great. The big evaporative cooler could finally make the place comfortable. I'm right now about to pull the trigger on the shagged iron of my old remote home in similar climate, but going with DIY foamed cement using a good foam agent that can give cured material of 75kg/m³, thinly capped by a denser shell with titanium oxide. The 300kg/m³ Portland foamed cement is rated at R-1.8 per inch, so I expect much better from my 75kg. Needs to be thicker than PU of course, to meet/beat code of R-5.2 roof here, but I figure 40-50mm should do it, and cuts the expense of PU spray foam, especially the bum-hurt it takes to get a contractor out to this remote area at the best of times, let alone the height of summer.

[@stephentaylor9366]

Ernie, In conventional framing, there is a “sill plate” at the top of each wall. With a 9” ICF block, a treated 2x10 works perfectly. As far as fastening it down? Simpson Ties makes a strap arrangement that you install in the wet concrete. On the upper end are two separate perforated straps that you simply bend to wrap around the sill plate. Nail it or screw it to the sill plate and you can have as many as needed for wind resistance etc. At this point you can’t build any type of insulated roof system you want, but be careful because most shingle material will not withstand the intense heat developed from the sun. Why? The shingles can no longer reflect some of the heat back into the attic space and the intense heat will cause these shingles to fail in a very short period of time. BTW this also voids most warranties on ALL roofing products. There are roofing materials specially designed for these roof systems. Personally, you can simply install 2” thick 2x4x10 sheets of styrofoam directly over your ceiling joist system and get the same insulation results as an ICF roof or sif roof and It’s cheaper, you can walk on it, and it will never lose its insulation qualities.

[@kameljoe21]

IFC roofs and floors are way cheaper than your standards roof and then you have to worry about replaceing the roof every 20/30 years where all you have to do for a bare concrete roof is spray a sealer down every 10 years or so, Depending on where you live, This can be as cheap as a few 100 dollars every 10 years for the sealer. IFC roofs and floors have about 12 inches of insulation and are really easy to finish with stucco. IFC also have thicker insulation panels that can be added or inside strips that also can be added, These all vary on which brand you buy. IFC finish work is best done in stucco for exterior and interior. Drywall and other added walls add more labor and cost to said home. Trying to find a builder can be tough depending on where you live. Most of the builders want to do walls and a stick roof, There are a lot of them that do this. Floors and roof require the builder to have a massive amount of temporary roof jacks where they go in and place planks and jacks every 4 feet give or take. Roofs with extreme pitches require much more support.

[@darthvader5300]

I have been waiting for someone to ask that question of Insulated Concrete Forms and Structural Insulated Panels and Traditional Platform Framing and ask the ultimate question: Why is it nobody has ever tried creating a modular and scalable and inorganic permanent, stay in place, aerated high-strenght and ultra-high performance perlite concrete forms to form the posts, beams, walls, floors, roofs, stairways supporting double beams, etc by using steel fibers and wollastonite to improve it's performance? The formula normally is 1 part cement and 4 parts perlite. Why not use the time-tested and time-proven almost virtually indestructible Ancient Chinese rice glue-slaked lime mortar? The mixture will be .5 part rice glue powder + .5 part slaked lime powder + 9 parts perlite. Procedure: boil 6.5 parts to 7 parts water to hot boiling point and add .5 part rice glue powder (rice flour or sticky rice flour) and once the rice glue powder has dissolved completely with the hot boilint water, then all it to cool into a watery rice glue liquid and then add .5 part slaked lime powder until it has disssolved completely with the cool rice glue water mixture. After the slaked lime powder has been completely dissolved with the rice glue water, add the 9 parts perlite and mix thoroughly well and evenly and properly. Then pour-place into molds to properly harden and cure into full strenght. Add 1 part wollastonite if needed to further improve it's performance. Then design and mass produce a mass producible and modular and scalable precision engineered and precision machined and precision formed bolt-together steel rebar reinforcement for the interior of the stay in place inorganic permanent, stay in place, aerated high-strenght and ultra-high performance perlite concrete forms and that includes the bolt-together foundation securing platforms to connect the forms and rebars tightly into place. AND THEN HAVE IT TESTED FOR IT'S COMPRESSIVE STRENGHT, AXIAL STRENGHT, TENSILE STRENGHT, SHEAR STRENGHT, TORQUE STRENGHT, ACID RESISTANCE (IT IS ALREADY WELL KNOWN THAT IT IS ACID RAIN RESISTANT), ALKALI- RESISTANCE, CHEMICAL RESISTANCE, ETC.

[@preshere]

My, that sounds complicated. Care to give a comparative the pros and cons + cost for the above?

[@RuggedIrish]

Is it earthquake resistant (is that determined by the compressive, tensile, and shear strength test results)?

[@fengtaowang5348]

Love the framing without dry wall.

[@preventec47]

The home without drywall was cute but I dont know of any major urban areas in the US that would allow to build dwellings to be inhabited without any fire barrier (called sheetrock) for the inhabited spaces. You could ONLY build that house in an area that does not have any building codes.

[@MarkR874]

As always, for most consumers, budget is king. Custom homes can have a little larger room for margin in budgeting, but our experience as a builder/remodeler is that we have to either A) match up to the existing home type, or B) try to keep the project in a price range that is feasible for the client. ICF and SIPS are niche markets for a reason. And that number one reason is budget. But nevertheless it is good to have these conversations and challenge the norms!

[@musaalkhadim5600]

Great take and information on these three building practices. ICF is far better than traditional though I understand the support of traditional craftsman. "Maybe it's time we let the old ways die!" Planned obsolescence has to end in America. We have been beat over the head for 40 years with horrible building practices. Time we build to last and please do a series on sq ft? So many homes a a lot larger than needed! Wasted materials money and time when you can have a quality home at a fraction of the cost...

[@zmanmd1641]

The perfect wall would be a SIP panel with plastic ICF studs attached to the back of the OSB. That eliminates the attachment issues associated with SIP panels while maintaining the thermal properties of the SIP. This would provide the anchor points for exterior cladding as well as points to mount interior details such as cabinets, TV's and other weighty items. To make it even better, the SIP could be sheathed with ZIP board on the outside to improve it's weather tightness. It could be called Studded ZIP SIP.

[@IconMaintenance]

What do you mean by ICF studs?

[@zmanmd1641]

@@IconMaintenance ICF forms have plastic studs embedded in the foam that support the attachment of exterior treatments like siding and interior treatments like cabinets and drywall with the same retention strength as 2x4 studs. Some ICF walls have thicker embedded strong points that support even greater loads than 2x4 studs.

[@IconMaintenance]

@@zmanmd1641I am interested in this concept. Please email me if you would like to discuss this: [e-mail]

[@thomasschafer7268]

Never. Tji joist with cellulose min. 300mm. Roof and wall.

[@jaymckimm1678]

Plan ahead.

[@cbmirada]

Hi Matt, I really enjoy watching your videos, my folks used the ICF to build their forever home, as to the roof and joists, it is a one story with a walk out basement, they used I think 8" or 10" steel joists, between floors and for the roof system, you can actually build another whole space in the attic if you wanted to, no cross bracing up there, and its a sealed system home, no opening windows except for two for egress, it uses a fresh air handling system.

[@jpitt916]

Love to see something about the rise of post frame construction for homes. Pros/cons, where is it legal, etc.

[@neilkromhout6401]

Hello Matt, I have been in construction for over 40 years doing concrete, framing, roofing and waterproofing. I have worked on an 8 storey apartment building of ICF walls and coreslab floors. I also framed many houses with SIPs. The SIP manufacturer I worked with makes standardized panels that are site cut with a chain saw or Prazzi Bar equipped saw. Thermapan Industries of Fort Erie, Ontario, Canada has supplied all the panels I have ever used. They have also asked me to accompany shipments overseas to train carpenters in using their system. Simply provide them your plans and they will do the material takeoff, layout and tell you any special requirements for long headers or unique situations. It is a family owned business and they treat their customers like family. They have supplied SIPs to Central America prior to Hurricane Hugo only to see the structure withstand the eye of that class 5 storm.

[@johnraynor5095]

Wish I could afford to have you help in remodeling/ insulating our 100 + year old homestead home in Idaho. Two-story, no insulation, no foundation, and leaning to the North. Must say your program, has become a real education for me. As a 78yr old veteran, I will get it done following information from you.

[@ECDDan]

As a professional Energy Efficient Builder with over 35 years of experience building with everything from Rammed Earth & Heavy Timbers, ICF's, SIP's and conventional framing I TOTALLY agree is ALWAYS the details that far too many leave out. Usually it comes down to budget, when it comes down to it people DON'T understand the need to deal completely as "Whole System" including ventilation, moisture mitigation and really EVERY component the house needs, budgets get squeezed and they figure (out of ignorance) that they can skimp on those... NEVER works but when momma wants to blow the budget with finishes...it just happens. We have settled on SIP's as the BEST but MUST work with the best suppliers, I'm a Certified Master SIP Builder and we've found the BEST supplier is Extreme Panel out of Cottonwood MN. it's a family run business that will bend over backwards to get it right, the owner Terry is and has been a leading force in developing the BEST manufacturing methods and equipment throughout the industry. Great video and while my conclusions may differ, your spot on, thanks for posting.

[@mikepankratz9702]

Hi Dan my wife and I have purchased property in Arizona in Lake Havasu city. We want to do timber frame with SIPS in kind of a Southwest look. I am trying to put it all together how to go about it and I am quite certain there was no one in the area that can work with sips and probably even timber frame to a certain extent. Would you be willing to chat with me a little bit, I don’t think I have concerns that some people do that I should use local architects and contractors?

[@mikedandar1171]

Very well said.

[@ECDDan]

Mike, sorry for the late reply as I didnt cath your reply, I don't spend alot of time on the computer browser content lately. Yes I'd be happy to discuss your project. Why dont you zip me out a quick email first, I dont want to post too much on here. My email is [e-mail]

[@ECDDan]

@@mikepankratz9702 catch my reply with my email... [e-mail]

[@j.m.5995]

My grandparents home in Mexico is concrete and it's still standing after almost 100 years

[@Rhaspun]

Concrete seems to be used more often in Mexico than the US.

[@MrSeddyt]

I’ve had experience with ICF blocks both Nudura and fox blocks, and I enjoyed both, nudura seemed to have a harder time with the corner blocks blowing out! But both had good and bad things about them but I recommend it for foundations and basements, but I think traditional framing is nice for the rest. The fortyplex appartement we did was all icf 4 stories high and it worked well. Winter building with concrete can be a challenge aswell so pros and cons like u have said!

[@theamericanfiend]

I wish I would have found your channel 6 years ago when I built my house. So much great info!

[@ContagiousIdeal]

ACME Panel in VA is fantastic. I built my house by myself, and they were on time with all my panels

[@OsterlundArchitect]

We've lived in our SIP house for 15 years. Engineering was pretty challenging, and the house moves a lot - we have significant drywall cracking at joints. Also have concerns about off-gassing, but have never had it tested.

[@dlorien7306]

OSB does

[@johnmoylan7202]

@@dlorien7306 source? No OSB I know of outgasses

[@dlorien7306]

@@johnmoylan7202 here's one... Ok, not necessarily the most technical or reliable, but I was in a hurry. Even the low-VOCs still have VOCs, & formaldehyde-based glues, so it may not be a huge amount of off-gassing, but the assertion there'd be none would be the more surprising than the assertion there's some. www.healthyhouseinstitute.com/hhip-769-Oriented-Strand-board-OSB

[@dlorien7306]

@@johnmoylan7202 and I'm talking the low VOC North American OSB I assume would be used in Sips. The imported OSBs are notorious off-gassers, which is why industry has moved to lower VOC glues

[@johnmoylan7202]

@@dlorien7306 I don't know of ANY formeldayde adhesives in Europe in any any OSB at all. It was done away with years ago.