Multi-Generational Home on a Budget: Episode 2 - Floor Framing

[@allanmacneil]

Crazy excellent architect presentation/education - more more more of this guy - top notch instruction

[@JL10007406]

Love all the "experts" showing up in the comments section. Thanks for another video Steve.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

The world is in Abundance of them!!! Thanks for joining in

[@steved1191]

Nice to see a home with a simple roof design, and short spans. Certainly helps to keep down costs. Love the videos. Thank you from Canada!

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Appreciate you joining from up North

[@ManuelOctavio]

Steve is such a good teacher and presenter!

[@LincolnLog]

Nice amount of views Cant wait to see the insulation details on this one

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Coming along, some good ones...

[@chadcooper7348]

This is a very interesting series, because we need as many examples of quality designed/built homes as possible in the lower square footage range. I am currently wrapping up plans for a 20’x48’ 2-story house, with the covered entry and porch running down the side… inspired by Charleston, SC town houses, but in a contemporary aesthetic. A very enjoyable design challenge. Look forward to Episode 3 Steve! (Also, if you get a minute, I responded to your reply in the comment section of your video upload “Exterior Insulation Gone Wild 1”)

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Was the basis of my thoughts using this project

[@scorpio6587]

I love it. That bathroom window header detail!

[@samuellowekey9271]

An amazing looking home in a great location, fantastic.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Thank you!!!

[@user-random-characters]

Great video, cameraman was killing me a bit early in. Pan up as we’re talking about trusses… also what was the weird loud music at the end? Loved the content though! Keep it up

[@philipbrown1433]

At 16:49 you have a clear visual of the end wall foundation and transition from concrete to frame construction. Maybe I like belt AND suspenders, but for little “extra” up front cost one could run the concrete out to the corner. Maybe not full height of wall, but just up a foot or two. Would make water management so much simpler and long-term effective. That lower inside corner (concrete to wood intersection) is a huge potential failure point.

[@Jamol908]

At 23:00 they show a added structure to the left of the main stucture. Which is on the other side of that stepped foundation wall. thats probably why a full wall wasn't needed

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

@@Jamol908 yes, and the homeowner wanted to minimize the amount of the concrete seen

[@kylelaw7210]

I guess if the build is on a really big budget, it’s still on a budget.

[@Mikey_556]

Is the moment framing / using the steel due to severe storms or code in the area? Or is it to supplement the style of framing used (meaning the floor trellises cant withstand lateral sheer as good as solid sawn lumber) great video

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

We are in a high wind zone as the ocean is a couple miles away - so the home was engineered accordingly per code for the Wind and Seismic zones here

[@ianbass7780]

IRC code on braced wall panels requires a certain ratio of wall width to length-it’s required due to the house proportion and lack of perpendicular walls to counteract the wind forces.

[@minhpham27]

From an structural engineering standpoint, you can make typical timber framing work for lateral loads (as a shear wall), but its easier build and potentially more economical to use structural steel. And because there are so many windows and big windows, the steel make it possible to have bigger openings and less intermediate supports while having the same load resistance.

[@kc9scott]

To my eye, it appears that the first-floor system would resist wind loads just fine, since the back end of pretty much all the wood trusses ties to a concrete foundation wall, and the trusses should do fine for horizontal push/pull loading. Where the steel really comes into play is for everything above first-floor level. The steel columns are kept vertical by the steel beams within the first-floor system. They can then resist horizontal forces anywhere above that point.

[@MichaelJ674]

Exactly right-moment frames in lieu of shear walls or braced frames. I think I have the terminology correct 😊. There are multiple ways to accomplish the same outcomes and it looks like a really logical, efficient framing system based on the project requirements and constraints. Great video, Steve! Very informative.

[@mostlyH20]

Great presentation thank you. But please wear PPE on a construction site, you were the odd one out.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Thank you

[@justboredstiff]

Good information and a well thought out design. {Side note; please reduce volume of the background music when Steve Baczek is talking towards the end. Thank you.}

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Thank you

[@mikeydeighan]

Love the build show. Love Steve for his straight forward explanation of what he is thinking about as a architect. Smartest thing I ever heard him say so far is maybe a throw away to most. I like to place furniture in the rooms. He is thinking about the living house. So smart.you can have a 15 X 20 room that is awkward or a 14 X 16 that feels huge. Where is the furniture. Thanks again Steve. I've learned so much here.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Well thank you for joining in!!! and yes, I once stood in a 24'X24' family room, (not my design) and asked the builder where would you put the couch? the TV? he laughed and said "I don't know". You have to plan for someone to actually live in the homes

[@mikeydeighan]

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 I feel like a watcher for 5 or more years obligated to say; Oooonnnnnnn the build show! Although neither you or I can hit that girly pitch Matt does... 😅🤣😂😅🤣😂🤣 All in good fun and no ill intent. Thanks for your help in making it a better place to live. 😃

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

@@mikeydeighan thank you for joining in......On the Buuuuuiiillllddddshow

[@jasonbay13]

new construction and budget in the same sentence (implied) is kinda funny. most people are lucky to afford a replacement water heater.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Everyone has a budget, this one is a modest one in terms of the Northeast Region.......it's all relative

[@stevemullen8457]

Most people can afford a water heater.

[@z06doc86]

TRUMP 2O24

[@ardentenquirer8573]

Steve, if you think you can control dirt from kids you need so grandchildren to refresh your memory.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Got two - not quite total control, but I love them anyway......

[@wantsomething3319]

Explaining the steel was excellent. I was thinking, it's not a load bearing beam, why is it there? Lateral load makes a lot of sense, thanks for the explanation. Jayman...

[@impalaon22inchrome]

Steve, ive got a huge barndo coming up with a 24x72ft clear span 2nd floor loft for storing hay. Any advice on using either lvl's or engineered floor joist for this. Thanks for all the great content.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Eng Floor Joists are likely less expensive and if you have the room get deep, depth is the best way to achieve the larger spans. Hay is pretty heavy, I would have an engineer review the solution.

[@impalaon22inchrome]

Thank you for your reply, we can always go with taller post to ensure we have proper height

[@sparksmcgee6641]

Price that I got trusses priced at 1/3 to 1/6 of what an lvl would be.

[@Eric-xp1kl]

Steve, thanks again for a great video. Question, just curious, how many days/weeks did it take to dry in this build? Thank you

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Probably 14 days/6 guys

[@steveanderson4768]

It’s amazing. What engineering can do for your structure one nice thing about where I live in Central US in Southeast Virginia we don’t have to deal with snow loads.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Engineering is fascinating

[@minhpham27]

Can you share the $/sq.ft cost, and total sq.ft and number of of rooms?

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

It was in the $350 - $380 range which for Boston is a modest budget, but also remember - 2 units, 2 kitchens, 2 laundry, 2 bedroom suites, 2 living rooms.......

[@pacodefrancis7235]

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 $350 and that includes all sitework, utilities and interior carpentry and finishes? That’s cheap fro 2024!

[@minhpham27]

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Yes, im aware construction cost is very high right now. Does this include the cost of the land?

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

@@pacodefrancis7235 rough sitework and utilities

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

@@minhpham27 no, construction cost of the building

[@ryanbeachler9226]

Steve, just curious if you and the builders you work with find that trusses make for a louder floor?

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

I would tell you the subject has never come up - you can place acoustical insulation in the cavity

[@sparksmcgee6641]

More mass in a 2 by truss vs a TGI so it's going to be quieter

[@myparentskid]

Just wondering, doesn't the whole floor diaphragm hold the floor system well enough without the steel beam? Seems like overkill to me... Also, you say "Home on a budget" but there are a number of costly framing additions...??

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

It isn't overkill. the code requires "braced lines" and the floor can't substitute. Beyond the moment frame this frame is pretty simple and cost effective.

[@disqusrubbish5467]

I like the "moment frames" giving you larger windows and doors but still providing resistance to wind. Are they expensive? (I ask because the home is on a budget.)

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

They are that expensive, to other option would have been a number of LVL's coupled with extending the framed walls inboard 4 or 5 ft significantly reducing the "open plan"

[@disqusrubbish5467]

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Yeah, sometimes you have to bite the bullet. The open plan is better.

[@oldtimefarmboy617]

In my opinion, if it is not all below grade it is not a basement, it is the first floor. That means it is a three story house.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

well it is below grade for more than 50% of the foundation?

[@oldtimefarmboy617]

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 "well it is below grade for more than 50% of the foundation?" What "basement" anywhere can you walk out the front door and onto the surrounding landscape that is wholly below the threshold?

[@sparksmcgee6641]

​@oldtimefarmboy617 all over the world and everywhere in America to the point of the terrm "walk out basement" If you want me to really get into it I can point out the HUD rules that determine whether it's living space or not. Which is just what Steve's comment says. It's a way a pro gets you a few extra 100,000 in home value even though you said you didn't care durring construction.

[@oldtimefarmboy617]

@@sparksmcgee6641 "@oldtimefarmboy617 all over the world and everywhere in America to the point of the terrm 'walk out basement'" And since most people do not go around flying or jumping or bouncing, generally any basement you can walk into you can also walk out of. And your point is? If you build atwo or three story "earth home" into the side of a hill, those floors called basement 1 and 2 or 3? No they are not. Basements are wholly or mostly below ground level. On this house, the first floor is partially built into the side of a slight hill with the front starting AT ground level, not below ground level or even partially below ground level.

[@CMCraftsman]

I’m curious why the duct work is insulated when it’s all within the envelope. Is that for sound or is it for thermal efficiency?

[@imtheonevanhalen1557]

All the shear beam and design, extremely expensive additions, are to mitigate the lack of direct contact of the sheathing to the stud wall. Those sheathing panels stand off the sheathing allowing a bending moment in the nails that hold them to the structure. Nice and very expensive work-around, but the better simple method would be direct contact of the shear panels (sheathing.....OSB, plywood..) and wrap the enclosure with R-Max poly-iso.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

It is not as linear a trade off as you have made it - if we used plywood nailed directly, the moment frames were required - the problem was lack of braced lines, not the insulating sheathing.

[@zaccsacc5839]

I wonder how easy it is going to be to replace the duc work later on

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Have you replaced ductwork in a home?, not added or renovated - "replaced"?

[@zaccsacc5839]

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 No. I do know they replace everything when you install a new ac system.

[@williamdemilia6223]

@@zaccsacc5839 why? just the mechanicals need to be replaced. no duct work.

[@sparksmcgee6641]

Way easier than most systems but why would you need to?

[@sparksmcgee6641]

​@@zaccsacc5839sounds like you got upsold quite a bit on an AC install

[@scorpio6587]

Steve Baczek climbing through the jungle gym with his 150 lb frame.

[@scorpio6587]

Questions about the strongback securing the floor trusses: I totally get the importance of keeping those beams oriented vertically and spaced. Does the sheathing above and below not accomplish that? Also, why 2x6, and not 2x4? Does the answer to both have to do with diagonal bracing between trusses, so the whole floor can't rack all as one unit? It seems that would take an incredible amount of force to overcome all those fasteners!

[@sparksmcgee6641]

You got it. The end point is pretty easy overcome. Even distortion within the span can happen, which lifts the ceiling ec..

[@sparksmcgee6641]

Oh the 20 plus span is the reason for the 6s with the L value they wanted. Meaning it's a stable flat floor. Without a doubt if you have the money the first thing you do is upgrade the floor bounce in

[@sparksmcgee6641]

Oh the 20 plus span is the reason for the 6s with the L value they wanted. Meaning it's a stable flat floor. Without a doubt if you have the money the first thing you do is upgrade the floor bounce in

[@sparksmcgee6641]

Oh the 20 plus span is the reason for the 6s with the L value they wanted. Meaning it's a stable flat floor. Without a doubt if you have the money the first thing you do is upgrade the floor bounce in

[@sparksmcgee6641]

Oh the 20 plus span is the reason for the 6s with the L value they wanted. Meaning it's a stable flat floor. Without a doubt if you have the money the first thing you do is upgrade the floor bounce in

[@williamdemilia6223]

I am sure there is a good reason that the window openings are not cut out as yet. Possible Damage , delivery issues? Keep the weather out in the mean time .

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Keep weather out till windows arrive

[@sparksmcgee6641]

And it's cheaper to just zip them out when you're putting them in.

[@CMCraftsman]

Not sure if this is the case here but lots of good builders here in the northeast blower door the house when it’s sheathed in before windows to get data on where potential air leaks are.

[@faheemhussainkhuwaja4083]

I live in Beaumont TX, I was trying to built a house with 2x6 24 OC but city officials and my engineer both suggest that in our windstorm area we can not go beyond 16" OC. any one has idea about that?

[@aceace6001]

the floor trusses can go to 40 ft?

[@sparksmcgee6641]

Everything is possible if you have the budget. But reasonable cost stud floors can been done that wide.

[@aceace6001]

@@sparksmcgee6641 Where can i get them? im working on a big project but i can find anyone who can make them that big

[@cjissocool2]

Is he saying Baczekally? :D

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

I see what you did there.....never heard that before lol

[@grahamstefaan]

On a budget but we wont disclose that its probably 400-500/sf.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Obviously you don't read the comments, probably just keep guessing....

[@raymondpeters9186]

Always keep your ducks in a row

[@4himsanctified]

"Budget" lol

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

I always like to oblige some humor too

[@sokoul]

Definitively you have a big mess with your sings on the end segment of the videos. there are too high and cover the voice of the people who speak mat /steve

[@dustydraper837]

If you need a “budget” build then you need to wait. Don’t sacrifice structural integrity. Stay away from pine! Furr and spruce are the only species I would recommend. Timbers and old growth reclaimed are the only way to go for multi-generational. Just because it works on paper doesn’t mean it works on a job site.

[@MoralConflict]

ents 91 Hardly a "Budget Build" bruh! Get real. Out of the reach of most builders. Steel framing, engineered lumber all over, and open web floor trusses. Not a Budget Design, that's where a true on a budget home build starts, is with a reasonable architect. Insane added expenses just to get a few extra feet of clear span room. All unnecessary period. Poor design, architect in bed with the builder, neither having to actually pay for the project, there in lies the major problem. Definitely wouldn't want EITHER of you guys on any of my builds.

[@Eric998765]

I love the build show but wish they would stop using Huber products on budget builds. Regular zip is $43/sheet (vs $13 for regular 7/16) and regular Advantech is $63/sheet (vs $31 for LP 350). That's before you even start talking about their tapes, glues, and caulks. I would never recommend their products to a customer on a budget

[@agisler87]

If you're using regular 7/16 what product are you using on that for air sealing and water management? A peal and stick?

[@Eric998765]

@@agisler87 3M 8065 + Tyvek or Tamlyn DrainWrap

[@RocketScott859]

Floor trusses are terrible. Look at the variations in your roof trusses. Do you really want your floor coming out of the same factory?

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

We have had challenges in our past, the flexibility they provide is pretty significant when you don't have a basement

[@RocketScott859]

Why would they provide flexibility without a basement? Every floor is flexible without a basement. Without a basement you can run utilities under the joists. On floor trusses the flange is wider and decreases area for penetrations (screw you, plumber), plus they're harder to insulate properly. I've framed for over 20 years and have yet to frame a house with floor trusses and think to myself "these are great, everyone should use them"

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

@@RocketScott859 because I can run everything that would be in a typical basement through he open frame of the floor trusses. I appreciate your experience, but we will agree to disagree. I do appreciate you joining in

[@RocketScott859]

I'm glad they work for you. I have yet to see them work as promised in the region I frame in. I also know how much extra time it takes me to make them work well and know that the average framing crew is not going to spend that time

[@TexasbestflooringcompanyTexas]

Most of the framing is wrong. You must be in an area that doesn't care about building code. Your exterior headers are missing in the basement windows, looks like you don't have treated lumber for your sill plates, and exterior load-bearing walls need more king studs and cripples than just one for each window you have this problem on the main floor, and the walk-out basement. The only cool thing I saw is the 2x6 added to tie the floor joists together during framing so they would not move or roll.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

While I appreciate the experience you didn't profess, assuming you have some, I can assure you this home is not only framed perfectly good, it meets, actually exceeds the required code for the high wind zone the home is located in. The house has been engineered by my strucutral engineer and the truss engineers. I assure you it is correct, and will be around for a very long time.

[@basketballperson1350]

Trash market strategy

[@pacodefrancis7235]

Lol. You know nothing about framing or structural loads. They’re using all LVL and MSR lumber. Not the garbage you obviously by at Home Depot

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

@@basketballperson1350 Is it as amusing as I find it that a flooring company questions the work of one Architect and 2 Engineers about rough framing?

[@minhpham27]

I think the missing top header is the entire top build-up "truss" looking member. The opening (span) do appear to be too long without intermediate supports, but maybe the (2) 2x6 is enough to transfer the load, hard to tell without checking their calcs.

[@jonerlandson1956]

let me think why you might be needing a surveyor at this point.... ya got me....

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

They staked the house and a few other features on the site

[@jonerlandson1956]

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 secret features...