Maytag Neptune TL (Top Load) UL Error/Unbalanced Load (Real) Fix - Clutch Repair/Replacement

Scroll down for an Update February 2019
For those of you who still own a Maytag Neptune TL (FAV9800AWW or FAV6800AWW), this is the "true" solution to the Unbalanced Load Error (UL Error on the Maytag TL 6800). The fix is relatively simple, but does require some tedious work. I first fixed it years (approximately 6-7 years ago) with simple tools and some good quality synthetic grease. This time, I was able to fix it the same way, but ended up replacing the entire clutch in the end (You'll see what I mean in the video). For those fans of my Neptune Dryer Video, I'm certain there is a high likelihood you own some variation of this washing machine. I wish you luck and encourage you to fix and maintain it on your own (or get a friend or relative to do it for you). The part number for the replacement clutch is 12002211. An alternative model number is 25001169. Just saw it today 10/16/17 on Amazon for about $150, and Prime Eligible. The original part number is available on EBay for about $140.
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UPDATE
As of February 2019, I had to replace the clutch one more time. I didn't actually replace it with a new one. The old clutch I had cleaned, regreased, and returned to service. What is happening on my machine (which is likely happening to many machines of this age) is there is a small leak developing at the bottom of the tub. The water is leaching into the clutch bearing and washing out all the grease causing the bearing to rust and seize. I was able to unseize the bearing by drowning it in Penetrating Oil (any brand will do, I used a generic Walmart version). After drowning it, I would partially insert the bushing/bearing into the clutch and grind out chunks of rust until the shaft is clear. Mine took about to clear, after letting it drown in penetrating oil for an hour or two. After clearing the bearing, I regreased it again. If you don't have a waterproof synthetic grease like the bike grease I used I would suggest you use marine grease. I bought some cheap Walmart Lube to try. I haven't put this "spare" clutch to service yet. But I will keep you all updated. I'll try to put a video together for this workaround in the near future. I wasn't sure if it would work, so I didn't film it. Good luck, and feel free to drop me a line if you have questions. In addition to regreasing the bearing, I actually added an O Ring to the square taper shaft (a small one). I also added a skinny O ring stretched around the lock nut at the bottom of the tub just about the square taper shaft. It seems to have slowed down some of the leakage. I would replace the seal, but that job is a big one and may end up rendering my machine useless. Could call a Pro, but it would be costly and probably more practical to replace the machine. Good luck to all my fellow Neptune TL owners.
After Two Million Views and 1200+ subscribers... they keep moving the bar and changing rules like a bait-and-switch. Gave up and got rid of all the commercials. As suggested by a viewer, I've opened a PayPal.Me account instead. Please contribute if you'd like to buy me a coffee (I don't drink coffee, so I'll use it for Coca Cola instead). Thanks! www.paypal.com/paypalme/samth...

[@BicycleCrossroads]

For detailed instructions, you can print these to guide you through the repair. Without the work of these written guides, I never would have attempted this fix all those years ago. I'd like to thank them for all the work they've done. www.manualslib.com/manual/616698/Maytag-Neptune-Tl-Fav6800a.html?page=47 and this link: fixitnow.com/wp/2009/07/02/replacing-the-clutch-in-a-maytag-fav9800-tl-washer/

[@BicycleCrossroads]

*UPDATE* As of February 2019, I had to replace the clutch one more time. I didn't actually replace it with a new one. The old clutch I had cleaned, regreased, and returned to service. What is happening on my machine (which is likely happening to many machines of this age) is there is a small leak developing at the bottom of the tub. The water is leaching into the clutch bearing and washing out all the grease causing the bearing to rust and seize. I was able to unseize the bearing by drowning it in Penetrating Oil (any brand will do, I used a generic Walmart version). After drowning it, I would partially insert the bushing/bearing into the clutch and grind out chunks of rust until the shaft is clear. Mine took about to clear, after letting it drown in penetrating oil for an hour or two. After clearing the bearing, I regreased it again. If you don't have a waterproof synthetic grease like the bike grease I used I would suggest you use marine grease. I bought some cheap Walmart Lube to try. I haven't put this "spare" clutch to service yet. But I will keep you all updated. I'll try to put a video together for this workaround in the near future. I wasn't sure if it would work, so I didn't film it. Good luck, and feel free to drop me a line if you have questions. In addition to regreasing the bearing, I actually added an O Ring to the square taper shaft (a small one). I also added a skinny O ring stretched around the lock nut at the bottom of the tub just about the square taper shaft. It seems to have slowed down some of the leakage. I would replace the seal, but that job is a big one and may end up rendering my machine useless. Could call a Pro, but it would be costly and probably more practical to replace the machine. Good luck to all my fellow Neptune TL owners.

[@BicycleCrossroads]

UPDATE December 2019: A few months ago, I added some ATP "Stop Leak" to my Maytag. I left it for a while then ran a few rinse-only cycles to spread the stuff around. So, far the machine has been working well (and not showing signs of leakage) and I haven't had to replace or regrease the clutch. You might consider doing the same, but please consider it an "assumed risk". I don't want to be blamed for anything. Good luck to all my fellow Maytag Neptune TL owners.

[@sevillasllc3391]

Bicycle Crossroads After changing the clutch, I ran the washer without the front cover. There’s definitely a leak somewhere because water splashes in my face when I’m trying to look at the clutch (in the wash cycle). Basically, there’s water dripping on top of the clutch, and then the the water sprays when the clutch spins. Questions: how did you know your’s was leaking? With the ATP Stop Leak, you poured a whole bottle into the washer and no water? How long did you let it sit before doing the rinse-only cycle? Any other details would be greatly appreciated!

[@BicycleCrossroads]

@@sevillasllc3391 I actually didn't put the whole thing. Maybe a quarter to a third of the bottle and followed it with about 20 ounces of water. I let it sit for about half an hour. I then ran two separated rinse cycles with nothing in it. I've been washing with it for a while now without having to swap the clutch (yet). If you kept your old clutch clean it out and regrease it with marine grease... Saving it as a spare. I would suggest repeating the STP stuff until it at least stops flicking water at you. Wishing you well.

[@BicycleCrossroads]

Forgot to mention, I realized it was leaking when everything around the outer part of the clutch was moist. Plus there seemed to be some detergent residue on the bottom of the washer that was never there before. Some of my previous remedies helped but didn't solve the problem. So far the stop leak seems to have made the difference. Definitely worth the price of the bottle if this continues to work. Plus I can use it for other things too. We shall see. I'll keep you guys updated if k have to change the clutch again. I've been good since February 2019. For a while I was swapping the clutch every 3-4 months (it was getting old). Still have two clutches. One running in the machine and one sitting in a plastic bag all greased and ready to swap. Sucks when stuff gets old. It seems all low water washers suffer the same issues though. Can't win. Proof that trying to be environmentally conscious can be a big inconvenience (e.g. An Inconvenient Truth...)

[@tobyk9665]

I also would like to thank you for taking your time to film, explain and post this information. Our FAV6800AWW just had the clutch fail a few days ago after 17+ years of service (July 2004 through Nov 2021). This was the washer's first repair. On ours the clutch spring was damaged, but there was also some rust in the bearing and I can see that there is some seal leakage. A new clutch has been installed (about $200 w/tax and 2 day FedEx). We'll start shopping for a replacement washer, but my wife will cry if/when the matching Maytag Neptune DC drying cabinet dies.

[@BicycleCrossroads]

You're welcome. It's my way of paying it back for all those who have helped me fix stuff throughout the years. Our drying cabinet is still going strong. I did have to change the igniter. It had cracked. While I was tinkering inside, I went ahead and changed the coils. Since others here had also had issues with the coils. Hoping the silicone belt holds out.

[@daniels7862]

Omg finding any Neptune tl is rare but the touchscreen is a damn unicorn.

[@gl5308]

Hello . A while ago I wrote to you asking some questions about a similar problem that I had . I just wanted to write to you again and tell you that thanks to you and your video I was able to extend the life of my WM . I know that this machines are not eternal but I’m more please in the fact that I was able fix it on my own . Also I did not wanted to miss the opportunity to thank you for your quick response to my question. I wish you the best and hope that you and your love ones are doing fine.

[@BicycleCrossroads]

You're welcome! That's great! Glad you got it to work again. Thanks for writing back. In the age of COVID-19, it's great that we can help each other out. Even from great distances. Wishing you all the best.

[@lowangproductions4235]

Very informative video , my clutch had run dry and wouldn't turn. Got it going now 😁

[@BicycleCrossroads]

Glad it helped. Magic of grease. ^_^

[@veritas-revelare-omnis5217]

i greased the clutch & works great! thanks for the info......I appreciate the video.

[@BicycleCrossroads]

You're welcome. Glad it helped. Watch for leaks. Mine was leaking pretty badly. I've been experimenting with the ATP sealant and it seems to have solved the water leak problem. Good luck with your machine. ^_^

[@themonk3984]

An excellent video to show how to repair and fix the clutch to resolve no spinning problem. Thank you so much. I have the TL FAV6800AWW model, weeks ago at the spin cycle drum did not spin and was not draining water. Only the tumblers rotated at the speed at 48 RPM max. In your video, you rotated the belt and can see the drum turning but my washer drum is not spinning at all, only the 2 tumblers rotate. I took the clutch assembly out. Yes, the bearing was dried out and not moving well. I did the cleanup and re-greased it per your instructions so now it is very smooth when I turn it and the spring inside the assembly also working well. Reinstalled the clutch assembly and ran the wash cycle but the spin cycle has no change, not spinning, only the tumblers rotation to the max 48 RPM. I did a lot of tests based on the washer instruction sheet and watched quite a few videos of fixing the TL FAV6800AWW no spin no drain problem. One of the videos mentioned about the door lock switch might be off position causing no signal feed back to the board and I tried it with magnets. Made no change. My washer has no problem of locking the door and shown that it is locked. Took both the Machine Control Board and the Motor Control Board out carefully inspect all the wiring and electronic parts shown no loose connection and no diode burning sign. At the Service Mode: Quick Spin test is not working and not responding. The Fast Time Down/Advance to Next Step, Quick Service Cycle, Membrane Test, Board Input Test, Board Output Test and the Tub Displacement Sensor Test were all okay. No diag. code register. All the washer washing cycles are working fine except the Spin cycle, only the 2 tumblers rotate. No spinning, no drain. I have to eventually setup the Board Output Test use the Presoak key to activate the drain pump to drain the water from the drum (the drain pump is working and no clog in the drain pipe). Somehow, something causing the drum not spinning. I am not sure if that is mechanical or electrical. Not sure if something jammed up the drum to spin mechanically or the Motor Control Board is not sending signal to start the Spin at high speed. Suggestions are highly appreciated. Thank you.

[@BicycleCrossroads]

It's really odd for it not to spin at all. When disassembling the clutch, does the main bearing/bushing spin freely? With the upper removable bearing, it should spin at least freely in one direction. The lower needle bearings should spin freely in both directions. When everything is installed, can you spin the tub by hand? It should rotate (I think) counterclockwise freely. It's really odd for it not to spin at all... especially considering the inner ones are spinning. I'll ponder it a bit. Again, I'm not a professional. Just another owner trying to help other owners.

[@BicycleCrossroads]

Perhaps it's rusted at the shaft? It may be rusted somewhere if the tub does not spin at all.

[@themonk3984]

@@BicycleCrossroads Thank you so much for the quick reply. Really appreciated. Before the disassembling the upper bearing was moving with hesitation and the main bearing was stuck. After the cleanup and re-grease, the whole assembly moved freely. After the installation, the drum still cannot spin especially by hand. I trust that the not spin situation is mechanical and nothing to do with electrical such as Motor Board etc. I'll look into it again. Thank you so much for you kindness. You are wonderful.

[@firealarmtechguy4444]

Displacement switch is bad.

[@kpj54256]

Thank you SOOOOOOOOOO much for this video. My pin had also bent the strap and fell out. Got the bearing free spinning again and bent the metal back around that pin. Hopefully it will last until I can get the new clutch. My wife was ready to throw in the towel... Sorry had to use that pun. Again thanks for this VERY informative video!

[@BicycleCrossroads]

Glad we saved another washing machine. ^_^ If you're waiting for the new clutch, spin everything on low. It's understandably frustrating, but when it's fixed, you'll feel a bit more accomplished and less dependent on the repair guys. Sadly, most of these fixes are easy, but most will not make videos for you as it cuts into their paycheck (by reducing demand). I find most of these videos on KZbin are just done by regular folks like us for the benefit of other regular folks. Hope it all works out for you.

[@oscarmora6152]

Thank you for such a detailed video!!

[@BicycleCrossroads]

You are welcome, Oscar. I wish you luck with your washing machine. If you are getting an unbalanced load, fixing the clutch should fix the problem. If your washer is on the original clutch and the spring mechanism looks okay, regreasing the thing should fix the problem. If not, just buy a new clutch and swap it out (should last at least 5-6 years). It's definitely a cheap way to bring your $1000+ washer back to life. Avoid using the "Max Extract"... I think it spins so fast it eats that spring and bearing mechanism... overheating the clutch bearing.

[@angui1973able]

thanks bro you video help me God bless you and you family..

[@BicycleCrossroads]

You're welcome, Luis. Glad it helped.

[@firealarmtechguy4444]

TO clear up something. if your SERIAL NUMBER starts with 10 or 11 you have the 1 way bearing. order part 12002211. (NOTE some 11 has the 1 way clutch.) if the Serial Number starts with 12-16 you have the 1 way clutch. part WP25001169. I hope this helps someone!

[@DADoESofTX]

The explanation at approx 14:00 regards to the clutch function, peg and spring pulling the clutch to trigger a sensor, is wrong. The entire pulley assembly is a mechanical two-way clutch. The motor reverses direction for rotating the tumbler discs vs. spinning the drum. The spring is a torque spring. It winds up and tightens when the motor/pulley turns one direction, unwinds and releases in the other direction, to separately rotate the discs for agitation or the drum for spin. Off-balance sensing is via 1) the black Tub Displacement Sensor strut at the left-front of the tub (visible at 5:40) which monitors if the tub is oscillating excessively and 2) a vibration accelerometer sensor integral to the computer board in the console which detects the impact if the tub hits the cabinet, which restricts spin to no more than 500 RPM for the remainder of the cycle, prevents revving up to the maximum 850 RPM (FAV6800 model) or 1000 RPM (FAV9800 model).

[@BicycleCrossroads]

Good to know. I've since had to ditch this machine. It started to leak badly. Finally gave up on it and bought a newer machine.

[@firealarmtechguy4444]

The White Lithium grease might be fine. The reason why you are greasing the clutch bearing is because WATER is getting into the clutch from the failed tub seal above. you can see some rust on top of the clutch. I repacked mine with LUCAS White Lithium Grease and replaced the Tub seal and both bearings. FAV6800AWW.

[@BicycleCrossroads]

I eventually switched to marine grease. And I ended up using a stop-leak product from STP that seems to have stopped or slowed down the tub leak. It's been about a year without having to remove it. I'll keep you all updated. I'll update the description as we proceed.

[@gl5308]

Hope you are ok . One quick question in 2021 I have a similar problem , the one clutch I took down from the WM looked just like yours . My question is : the top and bottom bearing needs greasing? I mean the single tube piece of metal should rotate freely between the top and bottom circular pieces correct ? Thanks for your help.

[@BicycleCrossroads]

Yes. They should move freely. One may only spin in one direction but should be free. If not... It may be seized or rusted over. You can free it with penetrating oil then clean it out and regrease it. At this point, it may be too old save. Should be able to last until you get a new machine. We finally gave up on ours this year. Finally said goodbye to it in January. And again, both need grease.

[@BicycleCrossroads]

I think one time mine got jammed and I hit it with a rubber mallet to free it. It was bad but lasted a few more years. I finally gave up because I was seeing bearing parts falling from above the clutch (from the main tub bearings). I figured 17 years was a good enough run.

[@DavaughnuBanks]

Hi what is the best grease to use. What will last the longest. WD-40 or the grease you mentioned in the video?

[@BicycleCrossroads]

Find a synthetic bearing grease. Mine eventually developed a leak. In which case I switched to a marine grease which was more water resistant. I initially used Park bicycle grease, but it's a bit expensive. I'd still use it... But the moisture situation made it less useful. I've had luck with the cheap marine grease from Walmart. My machine is nearing it's absolute end. My clutch physically broke a few months back. I was too cheap to pay $200 for a new clutch. I glued the cracked plastic parts of the clutch with a composite of JB Weld and fiberglass mesh (the stuff they spackle with). It's been holding up (for now). We're looking to replace the machine before we suffer a complete fatal failure. Getting there.

[@BicycleCrossroads]

WD-40 is a definite no-no.

[@DavaughnuBanks]

@@BicycleCrossroads Thank you. I think you have to calculate tome spent and money too. As that acculates over time for DIY. Really appreciate the video. Well done! Thanks again. Stay safe.

[@DavaughnuBanks]

@@BicycleCrossroads you should let Carlos know. He said he used WD-40 in this thread. I'll let you know how mine turns out. I'll be using waterproof grease for sure. I appreciate it.

[@BicycleCrossroads]

@@DavaughnuBanks WD-40 probably okay to loosen stuck bearings, but you'll need a good bearing grease for long term use. WD-40 is not the answer. The thing spins super fast. I don't think WD-40 will dissipate the best and friction well enough.

[@sevillasllc3391]

Great video, changing the part so far corrected the problem. Thanks for posting! At the 6:24-6:25 & 19:05-19:35 mark of the video, there’s a plastic cap/cup on the bottom right of the inside of the washer. What is that piece and does anyone know where it goes?

[@BicycleCrossroads]

I'm not even quite sure where that goes. I typically attach it near the tub outlet, but it never stays on. The first time I took the washer apart, that piece was already free floating in the washer. Never quite figured it out.

[@sevillasllc3391]

Figured that the plastic cap that I mentioned in my comment above covers the pump on the bottom right of the washer. You have to find the groove, but you basically put the flat side facing the back of the washer, and then slide that plastic cap over the pump. I guess it’s to protect the electricals from any water that may splash. Hope this helps!

[@BicycleCrossroads]

​@@sevillasllc3391 Cool. Thanks. I'll look into it the next time I'm digging back there. How is your washer doing with the leak? Better? Since I haven't had to swap out the clutch, I've left it alone. Even if the STP stop leak doesn't completely fix the issue, it seems to have at least slowed it to the point it's not rusting the clutch.

[@sevillasllc3391]

I stuck my phone near the clutch to find where the leak(s) is coming from while it was on, being very careful for the spinning belt and clutch of course. I saw a stream of water coming out of a hole from the bottom of the plastic tub. I ended up taking the tub out of the casing (the 2 metal front legs at the bottom, 1 black plastic at the top left, and the 2 back rods). Laid the tub on its side to examine the bottom of the tub. Saw there was another hole on the other side of the bottom of the tub. It was obvious water was leaking from these 2 holes because of stains/rust/marks. I wiped the holes and put kitchen/bathroom caulking to plug up the holes. These has seemed to fix the leaking issue. Taking the tub out of the casing wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be. You should definitely try doing that.

[@MsYenelli]

I had a UL (a 7 foot cotton pile bathroom rug...bad idea to buy). And then got Lr error and couldn't open at all. Repairman came and said it was dead ($120 service call), so I went out, bought a Whirlpool Cabroio...and came home and its WORKING. AUGGGHHHH. Which is the better choice? I'm missing the 3 rubber nipples...but the repairman said he SAW one in the base. Waddaya suggest?

[@BicycleCrossroads]

Sorry for the late response. If you can still return the Cabrio, I would. Not a lot of places will let you do it. Unless you bought it at Costco or some other place that doesn't charge restocking fees. I'm actually not familiar with the LR code but I'll look into it.

[@BicycleCrossroads]

Looked into the LR code. It just means the machine doesn't sense the motor is spinning. Depends on when the problem occurs. Sounds like the repair guy didn't do too much to diagnose the problem. Kinda sad.

[@tersterroth1153]

HI. I followed your video as i have the FAV6800. Once i removed the bolt and the belt, the clutch will not come off. I have bruises on my hands trying to pull the clutch down and off but it will not budge. I have a brand new clutch assembly waiting to go, just gotta get the old one off. Anyhow, i'm writing to ask if you have any ideas for how to get the old clutch off. From what i read, i should not turn the washing machine completely onto it's back side. Is that right? IF not... i can lay it completely over and then get leverage and i can also better see what i'm doing. But again, i don't think i should be turning it over. Please help if you have ideas for how to get that clutch off the shaft. Thanks!!

[@BicycleCrossroads]

If it's stuck that badly it may be rusted on. You may want to spray penetrating oil to try and dissolve some of the rust off the shaft. If you have a rubber mallet, tap it around the perimeter until the clutch falls down. The penetrating oil stinks though and can be messy, but it's your best chance.

[@BicycleCrossroads]

If you're still having troubles after that perhaps a tool store can suggest a bearing separating tool you can buy to wedge into the small gap and force the clutch off. A wooden wedge in the shape of a door stop might work too. Wedge the triangle I to the gap and give it a few good hits with a rubber mallet might be enough to separate it. Just rotate the drum and repeat on each angle of the clutch until it finally falls off. Good luck.

[@tersterroth1153]

@@BicycleCrossroads Thank you. I just sprayed it down with Kano oil and will let it do it's job til morning and go from there. I was thinking a pry-bar as the space is so tight. Thank you again for the quick reply. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again.

[@BicycleCrossroads]

@@tersterroth1153 Yeah. I worry about a prybar. The area underneath, just above the clutch, is aluminum. So if you do pry it with something, probably try something softer. The bad news, is this probably means your bottom seal is leaking onto the clutch... and maybe in a bad way. I've been experimenting with some Stop Leak stuff made by ATP. It seems to be working, but it might just be my imagination. My unit is already 15 this year, so any life I can squeeze out of, is appreciated. Seems like the modern "Low Water" systems are dying faster than the old ones you'd find at the Laundromat. If you do use a prybar, perhaps put a few layers of cardboard on each side of the gap to try and minimize the damage. The leak I had in mine rusted up the newer clutch faster than the old clutch. Now I swap out between the new and the old clutch. Having switched to "Marine Grease" has helped. I haven't messed with it in a while now. There was a period I was swapping them every three months. I would suggest you grease your new clutch with marine grease, and check how bad the leak is from the bottom of your unit. The stop leak I used is the ATP 205. I only used a cap full or two and let it sit overnight. Then ran two rinse only cycles to wash the stuff out. It seems to have worked (or helped at the minimum). Wishing you the best.

[@tersterroth1153]

@@BicycleCrossroads Thank you so much for your fast responses and suggestions. I finally through in the towel. The machine is now out at the curb. The penetrating oil didn't work and after reading and re-reading your comment about the best being RUST, that means it's leaking and that is a bigger job than i'm up for. I"ll now list the Clutch on ebay so that it's not a loss other than my time. Although, i did learn how to change a belt on a washing machine. I always figured there was one but didn't know where or how. Now i do, so this was very much a learning opportunity. The biggest thank you though is for your fast replies. It emans everything when one is in the middle of a "project" reaches out for help to anyone listening and maybe not hearing back. So, thanks again for everything.

[@carlos1000rr]

Wondering if you could give me a hand? I don’t have a torque wrench. When I tighten the bolt to the clutch assembly it’s either too tight and it starts to burn the belt, or the bolt unscrews it self after a cycle and the assembly drops. Any suggestions?

[@BicycleCrossroads]

Does the lower bearing spin freely? Sounds like it might be seized. Make sure it's free spinning. If it's rusted on make sure to free it with penetrating oil. Without a torque wrench it should be just hand tight.

[@carlos1000rr]

Thank you! I’ll give it another cleaning

[@BicycleCrossroads]

@@carlos1000rr Great! Make sure that center bushing can spin freely. From what it sounds like, it may still be rusted onto the lower roller bearings. I actually have two clutches at a time. One is in the machine... and when it fails, I swap it with one that is ready to go. I haven't had to swap in a while since dosing the machine with the STP stop leak stuff. We'll see how long it lasts. Good luck.

[@carlos1000rr]

Just wanted to say thank you. I pulled out the clutch assembly. Cleaned it thoroughly, hit with some WD-40, cleaned it again and packed it with some Lucas Grease. It seem to do the trick. By this time I am an expert and uninstalling and reinstalling the clutch assembly. Once again, thank your for the help and awesome video. -Carlos

[@BicycleCrossroads]

@@carlos1000rr You're welcome, Carlos. Glad you got it working. ^_^

dope!

[@petermaz701]

Wow all that rust in there, Regreasing is a temporary fix the main problem is the leaking from the tub which is a major repair practically not worth it.

[@BicycleCrossroads]

Fair enough. I actually just replaced it today. I suppose after 17 years, it's had it's better days. When I first did this repair back in 2010, there wasn't a leak, it was just bone dry. It last for another 6 or 7 years without much trouble. By the time this video, the leak was present, but not fatal. With marine grease I was able to milk it for another four years. It was still functional when we said goodbye to it today. I hope this video will still help many. And for those that are on their way out, the fix will at least buy them time until their new washer arrives. Ours took two months to arrive. Perhaps the delay is COVID-19 related. Who knows.

[@petermaz701]

@@BicycleCrossroads You did a nice clear job explaining the repair. I had seen this Repair explained on YT but that person had said the main reason was due to the tub seal leak. good luck with the new washer I hate to say this but it’s never gonna last like this one did. Look at the balancing rods on this machine and just the way it’s built it’s just nonexistent anymore except for a speed queen, but lots of luck with it anyway!

[@firealarmtechguy4444]

@@BicycleCrossroads New washer brand? Also did you part this machine? The parts are scarce and expensive!

[@BicycleCrossroads]

@@firealarmtechguy4444 We bought an LG. Another Top Loader. Didn't part it out. We just let them take it. I had considered parting it... But you can actually just buy an entire machine if you need those parts. I think some folks in So Cal were selling an entire machine in the $90 range with "no spin" as the problem. Had considered getting one to fix but figured 17 years was already well beyond their expected life for the machine. It was just time to let go. Sad. But it was time.

[@BicycleCrossroads]

Still have the drying cabinet though. Only problem so far was the igniter had cracked a few years back. Replaced it with a new igniter. I also swapped the coils while I was in there... I consider it a Preventative Maintenance task at this point in its life.