Measuring and Mixing Herbicides for Woodland Management PLUS A Table of Common Dilutions - 10/31/21

[@carolinechronowski6080]

This is really helpful. Thank you!

[@johnr6179]

Great info, very clearly explained. Here is a question that is really bugging me. I've seen multiple manufacturers glyphosate labels that recommend 2.6 oz of product for a 1 gallon mix with water to give a spot spray solution with 2% active ingredient. I got suspicious when the same mix recommendation was made for both a 41% label and a 53% product label. Clearly your calculations show that the active ingredient in this example should actually be at 6.2 oz. Do you know what the heck is going on with this?? I've wasted a ton of time spraying wavyleaf basket grass at too low a concentration and gotten very spotty kills, likely as a result of this problem, very frustrating. This is the kind of thing that can discourage budding weed warriors, which we don't need. I can't find any discussion of this problem via a google search. I have also recently heard from a State Forestry professional that the reported active ingredient concentrations of glyphosate in some products (Roundup) are actually lower than reported. This makes my head spin.

[@TheWoodlandSteward]

Great question! When manufacturers suggest 2.6 ounces of 41% concentrate per gallon of solution, they describe that as 2% solution "of this product", meaning that they are not speaking about the percentage of active ingredient, but the percentage of "this product" they are using. As I read through the Roundup Pro label, they also refer to using 50% - 100% concentrations "of this product" for Injection and Frill. That is all very confusing if you say to someone that they should use a 50% Roundup solution, but don't mention that you mean 50% of the 41% concentrate (or 20.5% of active ingredient). It makes much more sense to me to refer to the active ingredient. Thanks for the question!

[@johnr6179]

Right, I think it it much more common for folks in this game to refer to concentrations of the active ingredient. Everyone always stresses that you must "READ THE LABEL", but honestly the labels could be written in much more helpful language. And of course the focus and mindset of the label writers is on Ag applications.

[@rainycatscooka8692]

@@johnr6179 It is frustrating! I am dealing with English Ivy which requires stronger solutions than labels want me to mix. I hate spraying at all but using too weak a formula that does not do anything is harmful and pointless. I am glad to have found this video to find that I have been mixing correctly to get the percentage I wanted. When I look at the labels and how they want me to mix my product, it has never matched what I was doing. This is because I was making my calculations based on the active ingredient not the total. Math was my least favorite subject in school. If one were to look at my math, they would see how oddly my mind works. I'm happy to have the proper mathematic procedure making my calculations much more direct. I only spray where I can't safely pull. When I resort to herbicide, I want it to be effective. Thank you @TheWoodlandSteward for the help.

[@PAULWILLIAMS-sx2cg]

Jim, Nice job providing this information, thank you! A couple of ideas/comments, For your sprayer head, I think a felt wrap could work really well, I think it comes in different thicknesses. Any craft or fabric store should have it. I thought a piece of PVC pipe with a simple cap could make a nice safe holster for the wand. I have a little concern for the wand hitting your leg or bumping around into things it shouldn't touch. We have tons of honey suckle and invasive vines plus buckthorn. Hoping for the best thanks again!!! Paul

[@TheWoodlandSteward]

Thanks for the suggestions, Paul. I have been concerned about the wand hitting my leg. The last few sprayers I have put together have had particularly stiff tubing that seems to make it worse. I will give some thought to the holster idea!

[@salviabuckwheats7434]

This is the easy answer, thank you! We must divide all by c.1. to isolate V.1., of course V.1. being that amount of the concentrate of herbicide on hand we need to amend to the correct percentage...well, THAT does not sound clear but it makes sense to me, since your instructions were much cleaer. Keep up the good work. Yay for algebra!

[@TheWoodlandSteward]

I hope it answered your questions.

[@salviabuckwheats7434]

@@TheWoodlandSteward It exactly did and should be required viewing for any serious land steward. Thank you for your invaluable work!

[@karlh5300]

Love your videos. We are working on multiple Trees of Heaven and wonder if basal bark application with triclopyr can use water as diluent or must it be an oil or kerosene? The label seems to suggest water is okay for foliar application but is less clear for basal bark. Thank you.

[@suzyhen]

Thanks for the useful info. What do you recommend for Japanese knotweed?

[@karunald]

Chicago burbs here. tad over 1 acre Oak/Shagbark Hickory. How is it you don't have any Buckthorn lol. Still have a mother or 2 on the property I need to nail. Otherwise I find small ones pretty easy to pull. What I have is Bishop's Weed/Goutweed (Aegopodium podagraria I think). Still have a few remnant areas and in the past found it needed a pretty darned strong dose of Roundup. Bought the 41% and a surfactant to be more efficient. I so wish I wrote down what did it. This stuff is nasty and I don't want to mess around! If anyone has a dose suggestion for this - I'm all ears. And Vinca Vine ground cover.

[@frankthomas3780]

Any thought regarding hardware and the use ammonia nitrate to increase effectiveness of the glyphosate?

[@TheWoodlandSteward]

I can't add any personal experience. Adding a fertilizer makes some sense, but I'm not sure it is necessary.

[@helenjackson6535]

Where can I find directions on how to mix glycosate with triclopyr and which salt form to buy ie ester or oil vs water based etc I'm planning to paint the mix onto cut stem since I have a mix of invasive plants and read an article saying to do that but not exact directions.

[@leenelson7290]

I like the chart but I guess you have to be a subscriber to get the link or whatever to download... one question I have is the concentration level required to accomplish a task. For example, is a 20% level of glyphosate applied to the cut stems sufficient to prevent a woody plant from returning or would you need 25% depending on the plant , or what is the level required to be rid of English ivy? Or is it all a matter of experience? And the goal here is to use the least amount of the active ingredient to complete the job? Thanks for your knowledge here as I am in the process of this type thing on a very small area of my yard.

[@TheWoodlandSteward]

Different people have different opinions on what concentrations to use. The least amount that works is always bests, but you also want it strong enough that it kills it the first time so that you don't have to keep applying more herbicide. I prefer to get it done and let the area recuperate.

[@MichaelDamron-j8z]

What is the best to use to kill every thing like the rail road use i have fill in my driveway big rock on side of a hill

[@TheWoodlandSteward]

Good question! Maybe someone else will have an answer for you. You want something that is non-selective, relatively persistent, and can kill both before and after emergence. All of that and something that will stay where you place it and not wash through the gravel and into non-target areas.

[@MichaelDamron-j8z]

@@TheWoodlandSteward thanks. Its mainly morning glory. I have round up quick pro and rm43 it works for little while then comes back

[@karunald]

On what would you use the Triclopyr instead of Glyphosate? Thank you!!

[@njmuni]

What if I wanted to make less than 1 gallon of herbicide, say only 3 cups of a 4% solution with an initial 41% glyphosate, what would the equation be?

[@TheWoodlandSteward]

V1:Volume of Concentrate Needed = (C2:Concentration of Solution Desired x V2:Volume of Solution Desired) / C1:Initial Concentration) ---- V1=(4%X24oz)/41% --- V1:Volume of Concentrate Needed = 2.34oz 2.34oz of 41% concentrate to make 24oz of 4% solution

[@jimschlaugat6475]

Is triclocopyr better for the environment than tordon rtu for not translocating to nearby trees.

[@TheWoodlandSteward]

I think so. Triclopyr is relatively inert in the ground. I have killed off too much unintentionally with Tordon, so I have stopped using it.

[@maxc1484]

I bought Alligare’s Super Marking Dye, will this work with kerosene + Triclopyr 4 for basal bark application? Is says it’s water soluble. The only oil based dye I can find online is a Basal Oil product with dye in it that I understand I would use in place of kerosene for mix. Any tips??

[@TheWoodlandSteward]

Sorry, I don't have any practical experience with dyes for kerosene. I don't normally use one.

[@dttrandom]

I've used Liquid Harvest Lazer blue with diesel and Triclopyr 4 for basal bark and it works. The label on the Lazer blue bottle says to only mix with water based solutions instead of oil based but I didn't have any problems with it mixing in diesel and Ticlopyr 4. I doubt if there's much difference in using kerosene as the carrier instead of diesel or much difference between the dye brands. You can just try mixing a small amount. The Basal Oil products are pretty expensive so it's worth trying to see if your dye will mix with kerosene before getting the Basal Oil.

[@maxc1484]

@@TheWoodlandSteward ok thanks

[@maxc1484]

@@dttrandom Thanks for the info. I tried the Aligare dye with mixed results. Sometimes it works fine and sometimes it glops up. There are mixing order instructions buried somewhere in the label leaflet, I’m going to try it one more time. And maybe try diesel to see if there’s any difference vs kerosene. I may end up ordering the basal oil plus dye next year… since the TOH battle continues.

[@helenjackson6535]

In the pharmacy we round ml to ounces as 30ml

[@waterfallrich]

I just found your channel and began watching your videos last night. Such great info! Our lot (western NC) is only 1/2 acre, and the community park across the street is 1 acre. The park is loaded with Autumn Olive, Bittersweet, Chinese Privet, English Ivy, and also has Lesser Celandine and other undesirables. The HOA has given me permission to eliminate any invasives in the park. This video has really helped clarify how to properly mix the herbicides and other videos have helped with which herbicide to use and how to apply. Do you recommend 2-4,D for anything. I ask because another resident has some on hand and has offered it if I need it. Now - back to watching more videos!

[@TheWoodlandSteward]

I don't have any personal experience with 2,4-D, so all I could tell you is what I read on the internet. It is a broadleaf killer that seems to be most often mixed with other herbicides. I haven't heard anything necessarily bad about it, but obviously the goal is to use any herbicide safely and minimally.

[@waterfallrich]

@@TheWoodlandSteward Thanks for responding and for the info. I ordered the 41% glyphosate and will be following the recommendations you have in your videos.

[@karunald]

@@TheWoodlandSteward Destroys tomato plants even by remote drift. I hate it.

[@showmetheheartland]

Good lord, talk about over thinking something! Every herbicide product has the manufacturer recommended application rates for any treatment that the product is approved for right in the label! Follow the manufacturer recommendations. Enough said.