Medieval Mens' Stirrup Hose Sewing Tutorial!

We made the shirt in the last video, lets work on the bottom half this week with some vaguely 15th and 16th century stirrup hose!
How to Make Medieval Women's Hose: • How to Make Medieval S...
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[@LakeGael]

Mr. Donner should definitely make a video on his he made those shoes, I am VERY interested, lol.

[@brissygirl4997]

Loved your hubby doing his little dance while he was trying them on lol I'd love to see a video of you or your hubby showing us how those shoes were made, I think that would be really interesting

[@dannisjc]

I had an idiotic aha moment watching this. Even though I know historical fabrics didn't really have stretch to them, I somehow have always imagined hose to be completely fitted (as stockings etc are today)... Thanks for clearing up my misconception.

[@elvenvalkyrja]

Actually, they were nearly as fitted as modern stockings, at least for the wealthy. Hose were usually cut on the biais, which gives the fabric (especially wool) enough stretch to mold the body pretty closely^^

[@ZoraTheberge]

There’s a 1968 Romeo and Juliet (you may have seen in school) that features a more fitted hose look that achieves it with (I assume) more modern knitwear. Similar to the way ballet dancers’ tights are made. A true bias cut could actually provide more flexibility and a tighter fit, but the real skintight look couldn’t have happened until later and is aided by spandex.

[@oseisey9165]

Но на картинах Средневековья/Возрождения шоссы идеально облигают, как колготки

[@tammyt3434]

"Or maybe it'll F- everything up. Who knows?" The sewing gods. The sewing gods know.

[@MsZeldasaga]

I like the happy dance he's doing😆

[@MorganDonner]

Me too! :D

[@Marialla.]

I'm doing an image search trying to find patterned hose or pants on medieval men, and not finding much. Either it really wasn't a thing, or they didn't want to paint such vanity, or my search skills kinda suck. But I did come across a painting of the three magi with a very interesting detail. Their pants are of richly patterned fabric, possibly even leopard skin? and have an incredible detail running right down the center front of the legs that looks like a row of pearls or round buttons. I love this! What an incredible way to announce that you never EVER have to kneel for any reason! Put pearl buttons right on your knees to make it impossible. Why this didn't instantly become a trend for the rich and tasteless I'll never know.

[@skylerhall1537]

Does this mean Ye Olde Prostitutes had padded knees 😂😂😂 (jkjkjk I'm just being funny)

[@catofzen]

There is a portugese sumptuary law stating that only knights may wear painted hose, so we can conclude that patterning was desirable.

[@catofzen]

There are some truly glorious patterned hosen in paintings. Some people theorize that the patterning is a result of sprang designs, but I think that there's paint or applique involved.

[@AdirondackRuby]

Derriere Area! That's a fun one to say. Love the red wool. Tell your model he did a good job. LOL!

[@maleahlock]

See, you're my type of seamstress. I don't want to pay $38 for an impossibly-thinner-than-tissue-paper pattern that I would have to adjust anyway. Cheers!

[@MorganDonner]

Plus, figuring the pattern out for yourself is half the fun!

[@Gandellion]

This is a great example of why I find the Middle Ages so interesting, that pattern is so convoluted and much more complex than it really needs to be! I feel like this is one of the defining factors of this period of time, especially the High Medieval!

[@MorganDonner]

Yeah, the choice of making pants primarily back-seamed is sort of weird, but I guess I get it when I consider that socks/stockings came first, and sort of 'grew' upward to eventually become pants. If you ever try making fabric socks, you'll see that a back-seam starts to make a lot of sense here.

[@en1909s9iah]

I also think that this create less cutting off precious fabric, bigger pieces of fabric could be used to other stuff after being used as clothing, I guess (?).

[@davidesilvano7814]

I guess there were pants before pants like the Thorsbergertrousers and gaulish trousers or skythian trousers ecet. but I remember they were never called pants or trousers but had different names. Wonder if pants vanished from fashion on the european peninsula only to be reinvented again or at least have a comback in different form.

[@robertsherman9975]

Just came across your videos. I really enjoy your cheeky humor and straight forward instructions. Also, it’s nice when you share your goof ups, showing we’re all human. I’ve always been interested in this time era, both daily living and clothing attire. Love the leggings, they look very comfortable to wear. Please keep making the videos !

[@cyrusunderscore7315]

Your dog looks like a smaller and slightly splotchier version of my greyhound! This is a super informative tutorial, I never fully understood why people tend to run thread over a block of beeswax before sewing.

[@Marialla.]

OMG MORGAN!!! I've been playing with graph paper and markers and I have to say I discovered two or three rather amazing things. I did a quick mock up of your pants pattern and laid it out on my graph paper to test a few ideas. First, you really need to line up your center front line of your drafted pants pattern with the true bias of the fabric. That will eliminate any straight grain anywhere, and distribute the stretch of the bias evenly all around the pants so they don't pull in any wonky ways or need one seam eased into the other as much like unfortunately happened for you. I think that might make them more comfortable and closer fitting too. (NOT blaming you! I understand your reasoning for why you laid it out economically like that. But hang on, "wasting" fabric on true bias is about to get more exciting!) Second, if you choose a fabric that is not a solid color but say a checkerboard, you can line up the diamonds of that pattern down the center front of the leg and it makes an amazing and elegant repeat, as well as a very cool effect down the back of the leg! This would definitely have been more upper-class wear as there is some wastage of fabric getting the pattern to align right on the fabric, and that is some VERY conspicuous consumption right there! Third, if you use a simple striped pattern, in order for each leg to have an opposing direction of stripe that makes a chevron pattern if aligned perfectly, you have to rotate one of your leg pattern pieces 90 degrees from the first one, which is a MASSIVE waste of fabric! Hence, this would absolutely have been a desirable cut for the wealthiest people because anyone in the know would realize what a huge inconvenience and waste such a gaudy cut would take to produce. I don't have any documentation on this, just the de facto experience of making some paper mock-ups and being surprised by what emerged. But I highly encourage you to do the same! I'm sure you will be impressed, as I was, by what interesting designs just happen serendipitously.

[@MorganDonner]

Sounds like you did some serious legwork! I look forward to trying that out next time I make hose, thank you!

[@Marialla.]

@@MorganDonner Lol "legwork". I see what you did there.

[@wendeln92]

Glad you mentioned that when you want a fabric to stretch a bit laying out the pattern at an angle to the straight grain/weave of the fabric will help accomplish this. Normally you don't want to do this to avoid garments from twisting or wearing oddly but if you want some stretch it is OK.

[@remipelzer2710]

I've been searching for months this kind of hose tutorial. At last I find it ! Your video are great quality. I'm very happy, thank you. Signed : a follower from France.

[@MorganDonner]

Hello from north USA! I am glad you found it useful!

[@mandiflame]

I love the dancing hose man XD

[@ah5721]

The little jig Mr Donner is dancing is entertaining lol! These hose remind me of the stirup pants that were popular in the early 90's I hated lol. I guess some fashions always make a come back! Thank you for this tutorial! I would assume one could add a codpiece after the fact by lacing it onto the eyelets?

[@janesmith1398]

And the early 80s.

[@cheryldenkins1597]

And the late 60's.

[@jenmac3501]

I’m highly impressed by these and by your courage for doing them. Far above my experience but I would love to try them one day.

[@patriciabennett7866]

I just love your blogs! I find all this type of stuff so fascinating! And your vlogs with the Baroness both informative and hilarious! Love, love, love it! Keep up the good tutorials and happy sewing!

[@MorganDonner]

Aww, thank you so much!

[@SandraBergstrom]

This is amazing! I'm gonna be making some medieval clothes for an event this summer and these videos are helping me a lot!

[@MorganDonner]

Excellent! I hope they turn out awesome!

[@evelyn_r]

I love the 3 seam lines at the back, it’s a really nice detail. I was wondering however if you left the front with so few ties on purpose or if it was just for this video and planned to fully close it in another video?

[@MorganDonner]

Evelyn Rojas normally you would cover that opening in the front with a codpiece, and perhaps yes, more lacings! I left it with just one tie and no codpiece at the request of the person wearing it. The eventual complete outfit will include an over-tunic that goes down to the knees, so an opening here doesn't really matter much. If he changes his mind though, it will be very easy to add more eyelets! (I suspect another right in the middle might be requested eventually!)

[@ellengrini3831]

Great tutorial! :) I'm going to try and make these for a larp I'm playing in at the end of the month. :)

[@hautevoltage]

AMAZING! U should bring this trend back* love it

[@asyoz]

I liked your use of quilt backing for the sample, another idea is to get old sheets from a goodwill store. Often they get given sheets that are too far gone for anyone to use as sheets, but, once washed, they are good to use for large-piece mockups, where the 115cm wide calico won't do. Incidentally - your awl is absolutely gorgeous. Mine's fallen apart, it was a crappy plastic-handled one and the metal has come loose so when you 'wiggle' it, the plastic moves, but the metal doesn't. Perhaps it's time for a new awl, eh? :)

[@charlielamaletie458]

These look surprisingly comfy. Might make some sleep pants like this one day.

[@Riverfaile1]

I love your doggos, they’re so cute!

[@marilyngandhi4213]

You are a great teacher - I have learned so much, thanks

[@toddoneill9072]

Thank you so much! Love your methods and great results👍

[@RianShafer]

You are amazing! Loved these & your model wore them well!

[@juliemills6716]

You're method of making the pattern was perfect!! I assume you repurposed the cardboard part from boxes

[@katelynryder9103]

I’m so fascinated and impressed by the seat of these! I can never get my brain around the crotch of pants but I love how these ones come together 👍🏻🙌🏻

[@jelsner5077]

Wow! I'm impressed by your hose drafting technique. I don't think I would go to that trouble with hose patterns available.

[@lulumoon9]

So fun to see Mr. Donner dancing a in his hose! Lots of great tips throughout - I totally forgot about the running stitch modified with the occasional back stitch - thanks for that! (P.S. LOVE your signature red - it looks so great on you!)

[@ninjagoggles]

Fantastic! Thank you! (And I love your doggos!!)

[@australobuchia]

Hey, I think the reason things are looking weird when you use red fabric is because the picture/video is over-exposed (I.e. too much light is hitting the image sensor, possibly because the red fabric is messing with the infrared sensor that would normally set that? I don't know just guessing on that point). Maybe try turning the exposure down 0.5 or 1 if you can?

[@MorganDonner]

Thanks for the tip! I'll give that a try next time I'm making some thing red (which seems like all the time 😆)

[@Sassacracklepop]

Also if you’re using a different camera or changeable lens for the closeups it looks like it’s smudged or dusty and so that’s causing the soft light blooms (and decreased sharpness), AND that could result in the camera’s computer getting confused and seemingly overexposing the shot. So, a clean with a microfiber cloth might be needed if you didn’t already, seeing as this is like a year old 😅

[@chrisbeckstrom6182]

Nice job!

[@monkey-trial...6578]

Wow lady ! You are amazing! They look so expensive! The way you talk it sounds like the result is going to be much less careful but everything is wow

[@michaelsaxonson251]

Good god,I've been looking for a tutorial like this for three years

[@lindawelker77]

those turned out really nice! I'd be doing a happy dance too if I had such an awesome pair hand made for me too!!! thanks for the instructive video, cheers

[@repeatdefender6032]

I love your dogs and that someone else is compelled to do the silly hose dance when wearing hose.

[@cdb4668]

Man friend has cake. 😂 Great job on this garment piece!!!

[@hioiij]

U mean to tell me men practically use to wear colored thigh highs? 😏 let's bring that trend back 😌

[@WenchNightKIshi]

Would love to see more men’s stuff. I’m trying to plan roomie garb too :p

[@miklawson211]

I was always told to cut Hose on the Bias to allow for stretch. I've done it with joined hose and they have lasted me years.

[@thunderwonder1867]

I am *attempting* to make a pair of these for my 7y/o brother... we shall see...🤞😁

[@ke1tor]

I have absolutely no clue how I ended up here watching this, but it was oddly fascinating :)

[@jennyatelier_augenstern1180]

"Make sure to check you're not making two right legs" Yeah....guilty of that one. And I was so proud I pried the whole hose out of a leftover piece of wool. :'( Oh well, I'm going to make mi-parti pants then! Cutting diagonally on the grain is entirely accurate btw, because it will give the clothes some stretching effect wool usually does not have. :)

[@ragnkja]

Wool naturally has some stretch, even on the straight grain, but for tight-fitting garments like hose you still want the extra stretch that you get by cutting them on the bias.

[@deborahnelson4608]

I am loving your videos! Your humor makes me LOL! Question: where/how do you find your wool & linen fabrics? I want them for my projects! Thank you!

[@MorganDonner]

Mostly by getting lucky. I try to go to my local thrift stores once in a while, a few of them have a good section of fabric and other making supplies. The inventory changes quite often, so I just keep going back on the hopes that something new has popped up! I also sometimes buy at medieval events, they'll often have a couple merchants with fabric. It's usually more expensive, but I have found a few lovely things that way :)

[@celticgoddess81]

OMG that is genious! Love the pin idea. I have a tracing wheel though would that work too?

[@MorganDonner]

Thanks! A pin wheel should work fine, as long as it makes an impression on the paper! Probably easier through thin fabrics though.

[@timrose3198]

As always, great stuff. You don't by chance have direction to a video about codpieces? Anyway, great video and easy to follow. Thanks!

[@ZoraTheberge]

This period in menswear has always interested me in the modesty perspective. To the modern eye, his fly is down! But yes, there would have been a long undershirt and the over-garment like the doublet or tunic or codpiece would have given coverage as well. It’s much in the way men in kilts and ladies were not wearing any bifurcated garment under their skirts, kilts, or dresses. This whole video was great.

[@LafayetteCCurtis]

Looks great! Personally, though, I'd rather start with the tightest pair of trousers he could put on -- too tight for comfortable everyday wear. That way one wouldn't feel too guilty about cutting them up to get a reaaonable pattern. I didn't have to do that since I had old trouser patterns from before my thighs began to grow and could just cut those up instead (after saving the new altered version elsewhere, of course).

[@LafayetteCCurtis]

(And I also agree with the others who say go for the full bias if one can afford the extra fabric. It makes a huge difference and the waist/hip area can still be stabilised with a straight-grained lining.)

[@quirk65]

I’m curious when the formal “fall” was added to mens leg wear? Presumably if the front opening was open as in this pair, a longer tunic or shirt would have been worn over the top, so perhaps as the fashion for shorter tops they needed an alternative to the gaping opening and added the “fall”?

[@Veerlejf]

thanks for this! I was just in the process of making exactly this type of hose, also in light red wool (though in herringbone weave). I am adding a lining from the top to the upper thighs for reinforcement, as I noticed other peoples hosen quickly stretching in that area. How is yours holding up?

[@MorganDonner]

Veerlejf I have not noticed any wear yet, but he also hasn't worn them to a full day's event either. If I do notice any stretching, lining is indeed the perfect solution to stop them from stretching more!

[@gasmonkey1000]

Mrs. Donner, in the event you see this and are free I was curious if the pattern you provided in this video could work for an outfit that is supposed to be worn around the late 1540s. God bless you

[@tx2128]

where did you manage to find this wool? I'm looking for a good wool challis everywhere and it's only ever polyester or rayon...

[@MorganDonner]

Some of my best lengths of wool came from shopping at Medieval Recreation events that have vendors. Outside of that, I tend to peruse my local thrift stores, and sometimes get lucky with a yard or two of wool on a visit. If you don't mind gambling on quality, then eBay is sometimes a good way to go. if I know I need a particular color, then sometimes I will set up eBay email alert for anything with 'blue wool' in the title. Might take a few weeks, but usually something will hit. Good luck!

[@loony1212]

Its going to be expensive but try moodfabrics.com

[@piedpiperprince784]

I watch a lot of your videos and I was actively procrastinating cutting out the second leg of the period hose I am making right now when I saw this video. I couldn't not watch it.

[@chrisharper8998]

Thanks for making this video. Would a linen fabric work for this project?

[@MorganDonner]

chris harper, yes, any fabric will work, although linen won't have quite as much stretch as wool.

[@LafayetteCCurtis]

You'll need some really closely-woven linen. Rather hard to find but manna from heaveb ifyou can get any.

[@codewahn]

Do you have a tutorial on making the codpiece

[@libby6494]

Except for the lack of elastic and the use of eyelets and cord at the waist, these remind me of modern stirrup legglngs.

[@remyattig2765]

Where do you find light wool in these bright colours? I can find some in our fashion district, but I'm moving so I'm curious.

[@tamarab.7151]

Morgan make the model of shoes, please.

[@kyleallenburgess]

Trousers as we think of today have been around for 3,000 years especially since they discovered a very well intact pair of wool twill trousers in a grave in the Turin basin

[@ribanamay3724]

Great video really!!! Do you have any recommendations on what fabric to use and where to buy it?

[@MorganDonner]

Ribana May that could be a very long answer! In a perfect world, you would probably always use a nice bouncy wool fabric for hose like these, but the trick is finding it, and not paying an arm and a leg to get it. I check my local thrift shops and the bargain table at my fabric store every couple weeks, keeping an eye out for wool at a decent price. If price is not a consideration, then I would probably recommend Renaissancefabrics.net. A little bit pricey, but great quality! If you don't mind occasionally getting a dud, shopping on eBay for wool yardage sometimes works out. I usually want to feel the fabric in person before buying personally. And finally, if you don't like wool, or are having a hard time getting it, then any natural fiber, solid colored fabric is a good second choice.

[@ribanamay3724]

Morgan Donner thank you!!!

[@marialiyubman]

0:43. Laughing so hard. 😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@animequeen78]

Would an ice pick work as an awl?

[@eileenjohnston6835]

Please show us how to make shoes. Please, please, please.

[@123goldenlily]

Do you think you could do a tutorial on how to make split drawers? They seem to be a very important item for 16th, 17th, and 18th century dress, but i can't seem to find any tutorials anywhere on KZbin.

[@annedavis3340]

Split drawers were first worn by women in the early 1800s (and when they were first used even then, they were considered extremely scandalous/"fast" at that time. Not many wore them, and the ones who did were in upper classes and felt that their wealth/social status could carry off their choice of garment. A woman wearing something BETWEEN her legs?? *pikachu gasp!* There's an extant account of a woman whose drawers came untied as she was walking in the street and she felt them slip off and continued walking because she didn't want to be seen stooping to lift/carrying them, so she just hoped no one saw her stepping out of it and continuing on her way.) They've been magpied by people dressing in periods earlier than that because they aren't used to not having underwear-y stuff on. By the 1860s they were widely used under hoop skirts (still with shift/chemise and petticoats), and therefore more widely used. If you wanna wear them for before-1800s because you are one of those people who feel uncomfortable without underwear on, get on with your bad self and make em and wear them, I'm not going to sit here behind my keyboard (ok I'm actually typing this on my phone but still :) ) and tell you how to live your life. If you want them because you've seen others wear them and they must therefore be period-accurate, you're now free! Chemises/shifts were what they wore under their clothes. If you are cold, you can make a flannel petticoat, they're toasty in modern temperatures, and existed in many periods (flannel petticoats were also used in the 1860s and after, winning!) In a less period-accurate approach, because pantaloons (split-crotch and otherwise) were already anachronistic before 1800s you might as well make the pant legs look fun/funky, if you wanted to wear them as some kinda cheeky, tavern-y, modern-renfaire-goer kinda look. It all depends on what your goals were for them from the start.

[@annedavis3340]

The above was written in a pleasant, chatty spirit. I know that intent is always hard to guess on the internet. I'm not being judgy and I hope everyone who reads the above won't take it as judgy :)

[@scouttyra]

Bernadette Banner has made a pair of combinations, which are basically a shift and drawers combined. Could probably easily adapt to your needs

[@Centuriessewing]

I didn't catch it in the video, how many yards of wool did the hose take?

[@MorganDonner]

Centuriessewing Ooo, I did not think to measure! Probably 1.5 yards, maybe less if you do some piecing.

[@MrTeired]

How many yards of the fabric do I roughly need to make my own hosen?

[@lexygirl1786]

Where do you get your wool? Local or online?

[@cherylstraub5970]

What about the cod piece that covers the fly opening?

[@MorganDonner]

He asked me to leave it off :)

[@charlotteculhane3962]

Do you have any suggestions on fabric to use for those of us that live where temperatures can exceed 90 to 100 degrees at events that we might be wearing garments like theses?

[@bridgetthewench]

Tropical weight wool is very thin, so it keeps you cool instead of making you hot like a heavy coating wool does, and the moisture-wicking properties help deal with sweat and keep you comfy. I don't know how well linen would behave as hose, but it's also a good hot-weather fabric, since it also wicks moisture. Cotton is less ideal, it just gets wet and feels gross.

[@elbauldegonzalo3435]

Weren't hose cut on the bias?

[@kueichenglee7583]

can you insert knee drape and butt drape? so to reduce the pull stress

[@michaelsaxonson251]

But how make codpiece?

[@rainwyvern4587]

I'm making a pair of these and wearing them out when the apocalypse is over

[@simonaris]

I made a pair of joined hose which turned out fine but I have a problem with the butt area dropping when I sit down. Do you have any advice for how to solve this?

[@MorganDonner]

I have seen a number of people construct pourpoints which gives them something to tie the top of the hose onto. Definitely worth a try!

[@simonaris]

@@MorganDonner Indeed and also historically accurate but this would probably only help in keeping the hose from falling down completely. However, I do seem to remember seeing a lot of iconography of hose that were hanging a bit down in the derriere area so maybe that's just how they wore them back then.

[@elvenvalkyrja]

@@simonaris Indeed, that's how they were worn. The hose were attached to the doublet, but you couldn't bend/sit without unlacing the back… that's why workers etc are usually depicted with their buttocks showing! (valid for XVth century at least)

[@margaretbarclay-laughton2086]

Two left legs would be perfect for someone with two left feet.

[@wendeln92]

Flat felling the long seams are much stronger than how you did it. It's more work, but...You flat felled the hood but a pair of hose that needs them you fudged it. The tightness of the hose will loosen with wear, but I've found that just wearing wool clothing and sweating in it can cause it to shrink a bit. Why avoid the codpiece????

[@ragnkja]

If I had to bet, I’d wager that the straight machine seam will be the first to snap, since it’s the one with the least stretch.

[@mirjanbouma]

She has mentioned several times in older comments why there's no codpiece. Mr. Donner asked to leave it off.

[@rodentary]

I think the most entertaining part of this is the dancing and stretching ur husband does with the pants on.

[@kristofantal8801]

Nice, but sadly, not enoughly tight! :P :D

[@tackyman2011]

Historical skinny jeans.

[@oseisey9165]

Я не могу понять почему современные реконструкции средневековых шоссов не обтягивающие. Ведь на рисунках они плотно, как колготки, облигают ноги и бедра

[@jogoodwin7352]

I thought lying hose pattern on the bias was Standard procedure. I can tell you are young, ( I don't mean to say something hurtful ) because of how rapid you talk. I sew beautifully but I have dyslexia and I cannot follow instructions that are recited at a super fast pace. I do like your visuals and your sense of humor!

[@silverdeer2515]

Does watching with subtitles help? I do that anyways and then pause to read them if I missed what she said.

[@marianbarber7279]

Have you tried clicking on the cog wheel at the bottom right of the picture and slowing the playback speed?

[@kittydream_4717]

Take a drink everytime she says "crotch" or "seem" you will not survive

[@cherylstraub5970]

Wouldn't it be more correct to have a seam on either side of his crotch rather than a seam directly up the crotch, sort of like briefs have?

[@MorganDonner]

That would have definitely been a great way to go with patterning if he had wanted a codpiece, which would have covered the opening created by having the seams like briefs. But he wanted more 'pants like' hose, no codpiece, so this is what I came up with. I would love to try out the pattern you suggest though, it's a good thought!