Mercedes 190SL, 180, 180D, 190, 190D, 220S, 220SE, 230SL Self-adjusting brakes Tech Tips

Hope this helps. Anyone want to add anything please do. I think I forgot to mention when I loosely install the self-adjusters on the shoes, I then dry install them on the backing plate to line up the adjusters in or near their final installation position. I then take them off the car and do the final tightening in the vise. The alternate to this is to final install the self-adjusters on the shoes in the vise. Then install the shoes on the backing plate and use a pry bar to move the self-adjusters into final position. This works, but you must be careful not to stress the friction discs.

[@Glenn.L]

Thanks for posting this. It was very helpful.

[@0132222]

My brakes all done and thanks to Will. I now know how to adjust friction discs and reset my brakes. One big tip... I couldn't get my rear drum on one side with new shoes and thicker linings... i was there hours trying to do it and finally squeezed them on. But now the wheel was really binding so still no good to drive. Also the handbrake E brake pull was really tiny which led to the obvious issue that i'd missed... I backed up the wing nut under the hood for the adjustment to the handbrake and bingo, the wheel had more play to spin. So next time you're doing rear brake shoes... back off the wing nut and your new shoes should slid on nice... mine had been adjusted up as the shoes were wearing so needed backing off for new ones to fit... job done.

[@Mercedes-Guru]

Excellent news. Well done. Thanks for adding that extra tech tip. And congrats on the brake work.

[@0132222]

Well thanks to this I now know a lot about friction discs ! Changed mine today thanks to Dr Will and no more sqwishey pedal and sound braking. I'm investing in a brake pressure spring tool because trying to rest the spring with normal plyers is took hours ! The the friction washer moved so I had to dismantle, tighten and reinstall. End result pleasing and thanks again for advising with my cross the pond phone calls. Get over here for a beer !

[@Mercedes-Guru]

Thank you. Glad to be of help. I struggle with trying to convey concepts and ideas. Just because I know it, does not mean I can always make myself understandable. I look forward to visiting the UK in the future.

[@bobanofat2585]

@@Mercedes-Guru i think you explain it very well. i could not for the life of me understand the self adjusting part when i was reading it in the manual. when you showed it i slapped my forehead .. . would have made life so much easier when i was working on the car - but now i know what to do come fall when new shoes are coming on . :) thanks a bunch from Norway .

[@Mercedes-Guru]

@@bobanofat2585 You are welcome. All the best from HOT Texas.

[@pappawheelie44]

Thanks so much! Very very helpful. My official MB 190 Service Manual has worthless directions and blatantly erroneous illustration details. Bless you, dude!

[@Mercedes-Guru]

Glad I could help. We have come to the conclusion MB Service Manuals are designed for people who have been thru the MB training program and just need the manuals for review. Sometimes the manuals will lead you totally thru a job, but not always. Keep up the good work out there.

[@0132222]

Brilliant tutorial by The Master !

[@Mercedes-Guru]

Thank you. I hope it is understandable. If not, ask questions.

[@bobanofat2585]

lol. this video popped up in my feed the day after i fixed my brakes and had a heck of a time doing it.. still, appreciate the video - and i will share it :)

[@Mercedes-Guru]

Thank you.

[@garytowne1548]

Excellent, Very helpful.

[@NewsOneLive]

Thanks for the video!! It really helps. I'm trying to figure out why my 1959 190 rear brakes lock up and squeel when I am backing up after not driving the car for a month or so. If I don't drive the car in the winter for a few months they really lock up for a while and make a lot of noise. My local mercedes "expert" would not take my word that there were two brake cylinders on the front wheels. Now I have proof. Is it possible to get new "bonded" linings on my old cores? in the US. Any ideas about who do this kind of work? Thanks nagain

[@Mercedes-Guru]

Hey, thanks for viewing and your kind comments. Do the brakes squeal when going forward? Or is the first drive after not driving for a month backing up? I am trying to determine if the backing up is part of the issue or coincidence. My first thought is one or more rear shoes are binding or not retracting. You have to have clearance between the shoe and drum. Squealing indicates you do not. Possible causes: brake hose restriction not allowing shoes to retract, stuck wheel cylinder not allowing shoes to retract, shoe sticking on pivot, shoes installed incorrectly, hand brake applied and sticks in the applied position when released after sitting for a month. If the car is driven with binding brakes, then not driven for a month, then put into reverse, the shoes could be rusted to the drums and cause the squeal. I would remove the rear drums and check the operation of the shoes. Check that the shoes are not contacting the inside of the drum. Make sure the shoes are not rusted to their pivots. Slowly apply the brakes while someone watches the shoes to see if the shoes expand then retract. . Pull back the rubber boots on the wheel cylinders and examine for leaks or rust. As for relining the shoes it is becoming a lost art. I have mine relined at a truck repair facility. If you do get them relined be sure they understand the rear shoe lining is very thin. Hope this helps. Good luck, Will

[@madhavbhoopal3090]

Hi, I'm restoring a 190b in India, I've opened the front suspension and found some of the bushing worn out. The upper fork movement is loose and without any pressure from the mounting bushes,is that normal? Your video on the brakes was very informative

[@Mercedes-Guru]

Hello Madhav, thank you for viewing and your question. Without more info, I cannot answer it. But I made a video for you that might help answer your question: kzbin.info/www/bejne/a6jYlqqgqNadjqs Get back to me with more info if you need further assistance.

[@willardbaker595]

I have just installed a new master cylinder on a 1959 190SL. my problem is this, there is no movement of the brake pedal when I try to push the pedal down to bleed the system it does not go down,. I'm at a loss on how to precede . Any help would be appreciated.

[@Mercedes-Guru]

Hey Willard. Thanks for viewing. Not heard this question before. First thing that comes to mind is the clearance between the master cylinder and the brake pedal pin that goes into the MC. This is the one inside the boot. There is supposed to be 1mm clearance/free play. Perhaps there is none? I can email you a page from the shop manual showing this if you give me your email address.

[@willardbaker595]

@@Mercedes-Guru that would be great. The rod going into the mc is very loose. Is that the way it's supposed to be ?

[@Mercedes-Guru]

@@willardbaker595 No, not the way it is supposed to be. 1mm free play between rod and MC. That is why the rod is adjustable. If you want the page out of workshop manual, I need your email address. Otherwise, this is how I do it. Disconnect brake return spring. Push brake pedal against firewall. Position metric ruler against pin so that you can measure 1mm movement. Move brake pedal by hand until the pin contacts inside of MC. Adjust rod until that movement is 1mm. Tedious but not technically difficult. Reattach return spring. Check for about 25mm free play travel at the brake pedal inside the car. Just use your hand to push on the brake pedal until you feel resistance. That is your brake pedal free play travel. Hope this helps. Willard S.

[@bjrnharaldbjrgesater325]

Do you have a part number for the rear brakes?

[@Mercedes-Guru]

Which car? There are enough different part numbers to keep a mathematician busy for years.