Mercedes 240D Glow-Plug upgrade part 2

[@akbarpashtun]

Hello. I have normal glow plugs in my car. I want to upgrade it to Steel glow plugs which works even at -30°C. These steel glow plugs as said starts heating on on battery before the starting the engine. So if I install these would the pre heating feature auto work or do I need to install something else to make pre heating work ? Please do reply as I have no other person I touch to explain. I further would need to import so getting things clear will really help

[@sverduijn1]

What about the carbon buildup coming loose and falling in the engine? Also with the compressed air you just blow it in?

[@kentuckyburbon1777]

apparently burns up goes out the exhaust

[@BigYieldEdibles]

I know this is an old video, what happen to the project and the motor?

[@olenciozuzarte6715]

Have u any resistance other that the dashboard glow wire

[@ClaudioSilva-fe1zi]

Can you please share the part number of those glow plugs? Are those M18x1,5 12V right?

[@renom9657]

Hi I installed 5 new pencil style today new relay fuse ok battery new test light lights up all 5 But won’t start, any advice I don’t think there getting hot Thanks

[@garysmart1]

what is the right torq for the glow plug

[@XRinger]

40 amp relay?? Wow, how much current does each plug draw? Do you test the electrical characteristics of the elements? Maybe to see if they all have similar current draw..

[@knikula]

I think the fuse on my VW glow plug system was a 60 amp.

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

I tested one of the glow-plugs, and it pulled about 8.5 amps. So, I figured four of them plus a little overhead, I would need a 40 amp relay.

[@olenciozuzarte6715]

Are u connecting it to 12v through the dash mounted glow wire

[@knikula]

My suggestion in part 1 was to run a unique wire to each plug, and then run each of those wires to the relay. The way you have it now, if you have starting difficulties, and wish to test each plug, you won't be able to isolate it to a unique glow plug without removing all those jumper wires. You can always change it later if you need to,,,

[@XRinger]

If you used a clamp-on amp meter, you could start at the tail end and move up the line taking readings. If the tail-end plug was open, there would be zero current. As you move up the line, each jumper measured would show an increase in amps. If you got 8 amps on one side of a plug, and 8 amps on the other side, it's open (bad). I'll bet Ben has a clamp on amp meter, since he uses solar stuff.. :)

[@bborkzilla]

Don't forget to bleed the air out of the injector lines. It won't start otherwise!

[@pmkleinp]

The injector pump has a little hand pump just for that purpose on the side of it.

[@bborkzilla]

That's only for priming the lift pump - you still have to get the air out of the injector lines, otherwise the injectors won't open. The spring loading on each pintle vavle is such that any air in its line will compress without it opening.

[@mattadrev471]

how do you bleed out the air in the lines????

[@bborkzilla]

Crack then tighten the connection to each injector while the engine is cranking and then while it runs. You will see bubbles in the escaping diesel until it clears up. The air compresses such that the pintle valves in the injectors won't open much.

[@RayVal53]

Dear Eakin, Beware of Tovey... Love, Raul

[@imbodie]

you wired them in series... they are parallel plugs, realizing this is 5 years late.

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

No. These are in parallel. The source power is connected to the input of ALL the glow-plugs. Power flows through them all in parallel into the block. In series, each element is connected positive to negative. If one stops working, they all stop working because the entire circuit is broken. These are wired positive to positive to positive. Should one glow-plug burn out, the others will continue to work fine.