Mercedes ABS pump removal/replacement

[@dustinberrien8582]

Great vid.. do you think a leaking washer fluid box could disrupt my abs module..

[@hongray29]

Hi when you received the used pump can share how do you do the cleaning to prepare for installation? I got mine and worried it may contain contaminated fluid inside the pump and not sure how to do the cleaning.. and also is bleeding necessary thanks

[@mrbb569]

i just took the black box off & put a 2nd hand 1 i got off ebay for £10 , put it on & it work , No more "esp & abs" lights on all the time ... it only took 5mins ... c class coupe

[@FoxJacker]

Hi Sir, Was wondering how did you take the black box off from the module? can it be done without removing entire module? thank you!

[@bep777]

The electrical connector on my 2006 ml350 was difficult to get off, I used a large flat blade screw driver to work it off from the sides. As usual, be careful and do it a little at a time, its bakelite. Once its out about a quarter of an inch it starts to move more freely. Getting the new one on was also a little concerning. Pushing the rubber mountings back into the frame was impossible.

[@fupabox]

excellent advice .

[@DjehutiMaat]

I pushed mines up like the in the video but it’s still stuck like a lock needs to be released

[@fredbloggs2852]

Nice video, thank you, I have a 1999 W208 clk320. On my ABS unit the wires to the pump motor have no insulation at all, it's just crumbled away leaving bare stranded wire. It's the same on an identical part from a junk yard (A003 431 03 12 K4, which is slightly different to yours). Do you know if there's a way to remove the black plastic cover on the motor itself, without damaging it, so I can replace the wires?

[@abdallahd.1505]

hello fupa, great video as always, i had abs issues on my w202 i chaged the pump and the wheel speed sensors and it solved the problem but after couple of months, the abs light came on sometimes when i first turn on the car. after scanning it said it's a faulty abs pump but the mechanic said it's maybe the abs computer module(not sure about its name. it's on the passenger's side near the solenoide heater valve) and we changed that with a used identical one and it solved the problem. hope that helps you out

[@fupabox]

Thanks for the info... I sold the CLK last year :)

[@angelazhao254]

Hi Dar, do you need to manually erase the ABS wrong light after change the module or pump? Thanks

[@ricardoalb5820]

Hello … I have changed the front left wheel sensor but the abs light still on do you think changing the abs pump will help because when I plug in to computer still says front left wheel sensor please can you help

[@litzMiah]

I’ve got the same problem but no abs warning lights just a peddle with no pressure I’ve changed the master and booster bled all 4 what was your fix ?

[@mrglabs4778]

Same here. No pedal pressure. Just goes to the floor. New MC and no leaks. I’m wondering if it’s the ABS pump.

[@Unicornmeme123]

Hi do you did reprograming or it just work? I bough an used ABS with same serial number as on my faulty ABS do u think its no need reprograming?

[@jaykay8882]

I LOVED how you did this video!! Very informative!! Clear picture and explanation of what you were doing!!

[@TheLymanDiamond]

Could my abs be the problem? Stuck in Limp mode. No serious transmission codes. Got a low voltage error but the it clears. New battery. Good alternator Good voltage regulator. I changed battery and then boom….Limp mode. Does this every time I change battery. Turning wheel back and forth doesn’t work to reset it anymore. It’s a 2003 ml350. Been changing more parts and working on this car more than you would on a dirt track go cart. Any help would be appreciated. Maybe the lateral speed sensor? Or Yaw? Or abs module? Thanks again.

[@fupabox]

It sounds like a battery problem . When the car is idling what is the voltage at the battery ? Should be around 14v . If it’s proper voltage I would check all the high amp fuses , pull each and reseat them . Check wiring to the abs pump for good connections. Make sure key is out of ignition and disconnect the battery , always negative first then positive . Step on brake pedal for a few seconds then touch the negative and positive cables to each other for 1 minute to discharge and residual power in the system . Just be careful to not touch the battery posts while you touch the 2 cables together . Now re hook up the battery . Positive first then negative. Key still out of ignition. Key must always be out while battery is put in or taken out or weird issues can turn up . Once battery is back in put key in and turn key to ignition on without starting the engine . Leave it in that position for 5 minutes to reset the idle position. Now turn ignition off then start car . Turn steering fully lock to lock to reset steering angle sensor . Fingers crossed and see if the limp mode is gone .

[@TheLymanDiamond]

@@fupabox thank you. I will give it a go.

[@neptunevibe]

Hello everyone! I need to replace the whole ABS pump on my 2008 Mercedes C Klasse. My question is, if I buy the same part number second hand do I need coding and calibration? Do I need Star or Sentry to change parameters like VIN etc? Thank you!

[@Nyteblayd98]

Do i have to reprogram my abs after replacing the old one i have a 2010 E class

[@shumonali2692]

Hi cud u help me out here please just wanted to know if ur brake gone hard and brakes takes more time wen the abs don’t work

[@fupabox]

No . There shouldn’t really be any different feel to the brakes . It sounds more like you have a vacuum leak in your master cylinder booster

[@joesnowmobiles]

Hey Fupabox, quick question. I just had a comment on my abs pump rebuild video asking me if you could remove just the abs pump from the assembly and replace. I can'ts seem to find any directions on how that can be done. Is it possible? I know on my ML's you can remove 2 mounting screws and it comes off easily but on the clk320 there are no visible mounting screws. Thanks for the help. Joe

[@fupabox]

On this one there were 2 screws holding the pump into place ..I didn't dig deeper into it or try to rebuild.

[@modeep123]

Did you do the calibration after this. Turn the wheel full lock to the right then full lock to the left? That removes these codes too

[@fupabox]

Full turn lock to lock re calibrates the centre position for the ESP , which is a part of the whole and system . In this instance it didn’t help .

[@GordonBird]

No! Bleed the brakes with a VACCUME pump from the rear to the front and don,t press the brake pedal!...Silicone dot 5 "AUTOMEC" is VERY good and does not need changing as it is not hydrophilic. Cheers LA5 Lancs UK

[@mrtakemytyme7162]

Long story short I bought a clk 320 with out a key because I had one that I did have key for so I swapped everything into the one with out a key would I need to also put the abs in to so the module reads the same as ecu

[@syednazeeruddin3016]

Sir I have mercedes e240 it has sbc module problem pls suggest me what is procedure to replace sbc module iam replacing first time pls.

[@Mziry]

After changing this units must be brake air bleed ? Thank you

[@fupabox]

yes

[@davidgriffiths7564]

Hi. I have the same fault as you described in the video. I was wondering if you ever found a fix for your car?

[@fupabox]

none yet..quite frustrating...yaw sensor checks ok,abs sensors all good, all relays fuses and main lighting module are good,steering angle sensor fine..brake/cruise cancelling switch has been replaced,the only thing that comes up on a scan is the ABS pump and it has been replaced with a known good one.. recoded the pump to match the car ..still nothing

[@oneeyebrowdwonder7173]

@@fupabox do 98-99 need to be recoded? All my ABS lights are on. Someone already replaced mine but I just got another that I knew was working. Where do you send it to get it re vinned

[@andresguido8058]

How did you get the module coded

[@angelazhao254]

Hi Dear Fupa, do you need to manually erase the ABS wrong light after change the module or pump? I don’t have scanner or any tools to delete the code, do you have any ideas what I can erase the code, just drive some distance as some people said? Thanks a lot

[@fupabox]

yes unfortunately the new pump needs to be coded to the car with a Mercedes scan tool

[@nld-bl5ct]

After you fix it you still have to clear the code. It takes a professional unit to clear the code, or take the battery wires off and tie them together for 20 minutes. That might clear it.

[@fupabox]

I had it scanned and reset by an MB specialist... he was clueless as well to what was causing the issue

[@mosesl.4608]

What do you mean by tie them together?

[@sphericalspice]

@@mosesl.4608 To put the lose battery main cables together. But this is an urban legend / fairy tale (for clearing diagnostic trouble codes).

[@coolkidbenz4529]

I've got a 2001 c320 w203 and am having problems with my brakes. every time I reach up to 60mph and then start coasting to a stop, it feels like only one caliper wants to close on it own and then it starts making a noise.. like metal on metal grinding. break pads and rotors were swapped.. could it be my abs pump ? brake booster ? master cylinder ? plz help me

[@fupabox]

Check the pads .. I have seen a few times where the pad comes unglued from the metal backing plate.. I just had the exact same issue with my neighbor's car ...I had replaced the rear pads and rotors 2 months ago , and the inner rear pad was worn to the metal..the caliper wasn't sticking and the outer pad was like new..the only possibility was the pad de-laminating from the backing plate

[@nelias7306]

did they have sbc or sensotronic brakes in that model? those require special programming

[@syednazeeruddin3016]

Hi iam from India I have s class 2008 it show ABS problem and get steering hard somebody told me to change ABS moudle I connect launch scanner it show ABS internal problem if I change problem will gone or not pls suggest me what should I do

[@fupabox]

ABS internal problem usually means the pump motor.. check the electrical connections first. They may be loose or have corrosion on them

[@syednazeeruddin3016]

Sir I replaced abs module problem is solved thanks for suggestions

[@TheTacoBandit1]

hello sir, I have a 1996 c280. Will this video be of any use to me?

[@fupabox]

it will be similar

[@TheTacoBandit1]

fupabox Thank you for your reply sir! I intend to do this myself after waiting far too long on a mechanic to do it.

[@figgiefigueroa7372]

Good video 📹 But placing your hand in front of the part , doesn't allow us to see where lines go.

[@kimmilil]

"you are a prick" lol I taalk to mine too thanks that was funny :) great video thanks for posting

[@jakeweiman6157]

Hey there Fupa. Is this the same process for a W210? I have a 1999 E300DT Sedan. I lost pedal pressure and am leaking breaking fluid from my ABS Pump. No error codes on the dash. It's just a leak from one of the two black plastic plugs on the back of the pump. Can I get any pump from 98-02 if the part numbers match?

[@fupabox]

yes the process is similar.. the pump part # must match since there are a few variants (some have ESP but no BAS , some have ASR which is similar to ESP but the programming is different )

[@jakeweiman6157]

One more question. After I replace this do I need to hook this up to a DAS laptop? Or could I disconnect the battery and reset the ECU for a half hour?

[@fupabox]

Jake Weiman I am told it needs to be reset and re-coded.. I un hooked my battery for an hour..that didn't work .. I had it re-coded and it till didn't work. So I have no definitive answer unfortunately

[@craigyates9506]

did you try clearing codes after you installed pump

[@fupabox]

everything was tried on this car with no result . Codes were cleared, New ABS unit coded to ecu through STAR diagnosis, all wheel sensors tested , BAS YAW and steering angle sensors checked and tested, brake switch replaced , Battery swapped. A 20 year Benz diagnostics expert was stumped .Unfortunately this car didn't want to have ABS and ESP enabled

[@circaindustries173]

my mechanic said a new pump must be recoded, but a used one doesn't need to be recoded.

[@chauntisecarter9300]

I have a ml320 2001 and my and ESP light comes on. The truck skips and slows down to 20mpr. I usually have to cut the car off and restart it to move. Then it does it again. How much is to repair the and pump?

[@fupabox]

I don't believe your pump is bad ...it could be , but I would check a few things first. The wiring on the pump below the washer bottle can get corroded from washer fluid leaking on it..Check the wiring . When the ESP light comes on does the car shift to , and stay in second gear ? if so then the likely culprit is the right or left rear wheel speed sensor. The rear wheel speed sensor has the ability to shut down the car because the transmission shifting , ABS, Cruise, A/F mixture, speedometer. All use data from that sensor. If it goes bad your car goes into limp mode, with no abs or esp available. Not sure the cost or a rebuilt ABS pump , but I believe the issue is elsewhere , but I can't be certain . A Benz dealer or specialist will be able to read the ABS codes and tell you exactly where the issue is

[@chauntisecarter9300]

fupabox Oh wow thank you so much for your response. Does warmer weather make the issues worse that you've just explained? When it cold outside it drives better.

[@fupabox]

Possible if the wheel sensor wire is weak ...it may be stiff when cold so the wires make contact .. as the wire warms and moves around , the contact could break.. Just a thought , not a true diagnosis.

[@chauntisecarter9300]

fupabox I got you. I know it's not a diagnostic, but your answers have truly helped me. I have some what of an idea of what's going on when I take it to the shop. Thanks again

[@fupabox]

Very welcome ... let me know what they find.. good luck

[@the8419]

I can tell you used to smoke from how you hold that wrench in the beginning lol

[@fupabox]

+the8419 unfortunately I still do..nasty habit :(

[@the8419]

+fupabox didn't you quit for a while?

[@fupabox]

the8419 lol..yup many times

[@nilanthananayakkara6783]

Hi Mr,i have C300 Mecerdes Benz car theirs while braking brake pedal is geeting hard,brake booster vacuum pump is not working as per ESP..then i fallow the fault with tester their is showing vacuum pump relay,i check that one also it's good.then i check by tester vacuum pump opperating with drive links then it's working on that oppition only (vacuum pump).so i check all the wiring connectivity also asper complete list of testes by tester no issue,,,plezz help me what i have to do solve this fault i hope your reply very soon if you know about this.thank you

[@fupabox]

Check the vacuum lines on the engine..their must be a leak somewhere

[@nilanthananayakkara6783]

with engine vacuum lines are not any connection their , so that how it's possible? and why showing on scanner vacuum pump relay faulty it's also good...by scanner operate the function at the moment waking the vacuum pump.then at the moment while waking the vacuum pump brake pedal getting soft.what you think about that?

[@fupabox]

nilantha nanayakkara Sorry I didn't notice your car is a c300 with the separate vacuum pump on the back of the engine. It would seem adding vacuum makes the brakes soft ? I unfortunately don't have much experience with that system. I will ask an MB mechanic friend if he has any information

[@nilanthananayakkara6783]

ok just ask and tell me. thank you so much.

[@eagle___empire3175]

So what was the fix @fupabox?

[@fupabox]

For this car ..none ..ever . It was the pit of hell for the ABS ESP system . Multiple specialists including the dealer went over everything . tested everything , None could determine what the fault was. I finally gave up trying on this car

[@Ben10Arg]

I didn't watch the video but it would be good to replace the break sensor switch, that usually throws abs codes. Also the fuse, and even bigger could be your brake booster... wheel speed sensors maybe? Abs sensors? One more thing I'm not 100% sure but you can take that abs pump off without taking the bracket that's on the chassis off with it, and that makes the job easier than prying it off like that.

[@petermarskell8902]

Hoping we have better luck. It started out as an intermittent fault and able to clear by restarting. Now it's on permanently and stuck in limp mode. Took it (W168) to a Euro repairer and they said it is the abs module. Have ordered a replacement. Here's hoping it fixes it.

[@TheStiver]

What fixed the abs/ets/whatever lights?

[@fupabox]

+The Stiver Nothing...it was a mystery ...scanned and scoped like the shroud of Turin. All related parts checked and tested with known good ones and still nothing. The dealership, and a very respectable independent Mercedes specialist were scratching their heads, so I gave up

[@TheStiver]

+fupabox not encouraging haha the ML320 my friend just bought does the same thing, but you fixed cruise control at least with the brake switch? I actually got the lights to go out after screwing around with the abs module harness (had read it was common to have damage where it rubs the body) but all the wires looked good and as soon as you hit 10mph the lights come back on.

[@fupabox]

The Stiver Oh yeah..the cruise worked fine. The ML ABS pump is crammed in under the washer bottle and the wiring makes a tight turn. I've read a lot about it going bad at that bend against the body.

[@TheStiver]

+fupabox yeah I took all that apart and peeled back all the tape, all the wires looked good although there's 2 areas the harness goes right past sharp edges on the body. The ground connection was suspect so I actually just ran a new wire back to the negative battery for abs & left headlight ground... Going to try the brake switch since cruise doesn't work but I doubt that'll fix the abs. Guess I'll have to invest in a better scanner

[@fupabox]

+The Stiver The cruise not working might be the ticket...there are 2 circuits inside the brake switch..one for the lights and the the one that disengages cruise has a relationship with the ABS BAS ESP. So brake lights can work, but switch can still be faulty

[@wilborth5th]

Reason why didn’t work is because you don’t need to replace the whole thing the problem is the pump it self the module is not always the problem most of times is the pump, bad brushes and bad bearings, your lucky your MB is not 2006 and up, germans did their best to cage the system it’s a pain in the ass just to take out the pump, uffffff

[@angelazhao254]

Willy, do you need to manually erase the ABS wrong light after change the module or pump? Thanks

[@wilborth5th]

Angela Zhao first of all, every time you do a job on your car yes you need to erase those trouble codes, you need a obd2 scanner, second is a question, are you working on your ABS?

[@mudathirhassan3321]

hi Fupa , I have E 240 model 2003 when normal driving some time coming message on dash board ( brake defective stop vehicle ) at this time reduce the speed , when i make switch of and restart message gone out but some time coming again so i need your advise as soon as you can

[@fupabox]

It is either an SBC (electronic brake pump) failure or possibly the brake switch..either way you will need to have the codes read by a technician with Mercedes specific training and tools..where do you live ? there are shops that specialize in resetting and repairing the SBC failure for a reasonable cost

[@fupabox]

I forgot ..it could also be the battery backup in the engine compartment..the second (backup ) battery for the brakes is in the engine compartment ..if it is bad it will send that warning

[@mudathirhassan3321]

thanks for your answer , i check the battery it is OK reading = 12078 volt

[@mudathirhassan3321]

+fupabox Today I'm inspection my car in workshop by computer the fault cod it's A7/3 N47-5

[@fupabox]

Mudathir Hassan A7/3 is the ABS pump... N47-5 is the ESP module... unhook the negative battery cable (also unhook the negative on the back up battery ) then check all the electrical connectors on the abs pump and the ESP module.. unhook and spray the connections with CRC contact cleaner.. this brand is safe on plastics ,some others are not... once the connectors are cleaned and hooked back up, replace the negative battery cables and start the car... then turn the steering wheel full right to full left a few times to reset the ESP

[@Pokfeak]

How about the accelerator sensor?

[@fupabox]

unfortunately no....replaced with a known good one...nothing :(

[@KingStivan]

hey man don't you think its just the brake light sensor under the dash that does this ?? you just test this by slamming the brakes shut when moving and if you did the old black tire marks all the way home then its the ABS if not well its the sensor :>

[@fupabox]

I wish...it's been replaced 2x...the second one they gave me free...The star scan said the pump was faulty, and I've tested the relays,sensors (BAS ESP ABS)..once it's re-coded I'm hoping 9fingers crossed) that is the end of that....I did the slam the brakes when I first got it...locked up :)

[@fupabox]

KingStivan it is possible there is a partial blockage in a brake line...fluid was drained out fine and had good pressure so hopefully not..yeah that pump does look wobbly..but it is on there..thanks for pointing it out though..I went back and checked just to be sure :)

[@KingStivan]

***** no problem man ^^ maybe its an-elctical problem maybe the wiring is failing or something ? i don't know how would check this but its the last place to check if you cant find it just sell the damn thing xD na keep it , its a nice car ^^ kinda dangerous in the snow but nice :P anyways have a nice day man :>

[@cesaraptorflores3109]

sorry what kind of car and what year is that????

[@elmerellis2339]

Cesar Flores benz I think

[@cesaraptorflores3109]

I would like to know the model and year

[@elmerellis2339]

Cesar Flores it's a clk 320 benz it should be a 2000 or 2001

[@cesaraptorflores3109]

Ok cool I appreciate it bro

[@zubanx]

Great video. Can you or someone please tell me where the K25 ABS Pump relay is located on 1999 Mercedes E320 (W210) 4Matic ? Thanks

[@fupabox]

The ABS relay should be built into the K40 relay module in the plastic box containing the ECUs under the hood . If you take the plastic cover off the box and resolder all the connections on the board the issues with the module should be solved most of the time . Many times you can see the faulty solder connections on the board

[@zubanx]

@@fupabox thanks for a quick response. I actually replaced the K40 with an OEM K40 ($137) from MB Dealer in Alpharetta. No luck. BTW I was surprised to find it came with all the fuses and one main ice-cube relay - so simply had to re-connect, plug-for-plug. I actually followed you and took the ASR block with the motor off, and made sure that there was no issue with the brushes. Also ran the motor from a separate battery - and it ran fine. I have the dreaded BAS/ASR + ABS lights on. I have replaced the brake switch (OEM also ($27) installed it correctly with the stem extended - as I was supposed to). After resetting the lights - they come on when I start to drive (not stationary) - first the BAS/ASR immediately followed by ABS. I checked the voltage on Pin 14 (+) of the ASR pump connector - its showing 10.3V - which is not sufficient for the motor to start. I have SDConnect and ran DAS and tried to do the ABS pump run test - you can actually switch on the motor via test logic. No luck.

[@fupabox]

@@zubanx damn... I'm lost for ideas. Silly question..How good is the ground to the pump ? Try an extra ground wire and run pump run test again . Something isn't allowing full juice to go to the pump motor. I'm assuming your battery is good . I would suggest checking the lighting control module , but if all your lights and brake lights work I doubt that would be it.Odd that the lights only come on when moving , which usually indicates a wheel speed sensor or transmission speed sensor.

[@zubanx]

@@fupabox Thanks again for the ideas. The battery is practically brand new (4 months old). Voltages on K40 connectors - are all up to snuff. > 11.6V. As for grounding - I will look at that once I have >11 volts on the pin. I will have to start tracing the wires - one-by-one. It should not be very daunting considering the amount of time I've already sunk into this problem. I don't really have accurate electrical circuit diagrams - other than what I've loaded from www.autolib.diakom.ru/CARS2/index.html. Its a Russian site and has tons of circuit diagrams. Anyways - I will keep trying and let you know if I am successful. Enjoy your day !!

[@chauntisecarter9300]

Also the hotter it is outside the worse the problem.

[@klausstegmann5034]

ein danke schön, und ein lieben gruß' aus solingen, sl r 129 fupapox ⚜️🤗🧡⚜️

[@Ddiddy1978]

Can't get rid of my abs, traction,and tire skid lights,I have a 2013 Mercedes sprinter van, it's driving me crazy, I've changed brake bulbs,rear rpm sensor,brake pads and wear sensors,tires, bought a scanner and it says rear rpm sensor right side,like I said I exchanged it and lights are still on,I hate Mercedes right now!

[@fupabox]

I haven't worked on any Sprinters , so I'm not familiar with them..but my best guess would be the wiring to the right rear sensor is corrupted somewhere between the ABS computer and the plug for the rear sensor..

[@HatedWar]

what's ABS, air bag system something?

[@fupabox]

antilock braking system

[@moviestudioland]

And do you think I could even get the brake lines threaded in correctly on the W163? kzbin.info/www/bejne/a5WpY3Vpbb2Mnbs Any ideas how I can fix this?

[@mcsirias]

Butcher!

[@alram5664]

HEY! Is this a video by Survivorman Les Stroud! Dude, just buy a new car!