Mercedes R107 new fuel tank installation+modification to fit older SL

This is a detailed video showing how to modify a brand new Mercedes R107 fuel tank to fit an old style fuel sender. These new tanks only accommodate the later screw in fuel senders + they have a non-OEM fuel strainer with no mating surface for the fuel pipe. The video shows how you can use Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket to get round this problem and seal the threads against petrol whilst still being able to undo the fitting at a later date if need be. We renew all the fuel hoses, hose clips and rubber gaskets giving the various sizes and part numbers.

[@TonyLiveTV]

This is a great video! I learned a lot.

[@MikesMercsandothercars]

Thanks for that. Whenever I watch your videos, it reminds me of how much I still have to learn. Mike

[@lotfielomrani3359]

Thanks bro👌💪👍

[@MikesMercsandothercars]

My pleasure - it will be interesting to see what happens when we fill up with petrol... Mike

[@cav4290]

The very early R107 did not have a carpeted boot - the floor of the has the rubber mat which you have and the metal plate cover is left as is. As always, great work! Get to speed with the D-Jet before you do anything else, has many particular quirks.

[@MikesMercsandothercars]

Thanks for that. Come to think of it, my 1976 280SL doesn't have a boot carpet covering the spare wheel although the back plate is carpeted. Have been doing a lot of reading about the D Jetronic set up and the importance of fuel pressure/vacuum. The car I'm working on has some non OEM wiring and relays around the ballast resistors...presumably where the garage bypassed components to get the car running for the previous owner. Mike

[@cav4290]

@@MikesMercsandothercars Correct, however in that regard the D-Jet is not as dependent on vacuum as were the later K-Jetronics. Make sure the MAP sensor has not been tampered with, check the trigger points and the throttle position sensor. A quick test with an Ohm-meter will also tell you if the temperature sensors are within spec - easy to do. The D-Jet auxiliary air valve/silder valves typically gets stuck and you end up with a high idle - but easy to fix. I would do a quick inspection of that right away. Easy test: remove, put in a pan of boiling water, and see if the valve (Zusatzluftschieber) closes. If not, I will send you a video on how this is fixed.

[@MikesMercsandothercars]

@@cav4290 Hi - tested the MAP and it holds vacuum+ passes electrical test. The one on my gold 450sl parts car leaks vacuum too quickly. Managed to break base of air valve slider whilst taking it apart....luckily this one is from the 450SL parts car. Not seen this item on the 280SL...unless it look different. Trigger points and throttle position sensor if my memory serves me correctly are part of the rotor arm/points assembly (eg underneath it?) I wonder if there is a good test for the fuel pressure sensor? Mike

[@cav4290]

@@MikesMercsandothercars Hello, the throttle position sensor is at the base of the throttle body, you should hear "clicks" when it is energized. What do you mean by fuel pressure sensor?

[@cav4290]

@@MikesMercsandothercars Note the not all the MAP sensors are the same, in fact they are matched to each ECU. The air slider needs to be fully warmed up before you do anything, I would put in an oven at 150 degrees for 1 hour and then work on it. The throttle position sensor is underneath the throttle body -- easy to test. What do you mean by "fuel pressure sensor"?

[@Zeroturnlawncare]

Do you have to modify the tank? I bought a new tank can I just buy the new sending unit for the tank ?

[@MikesMercsandothercars]

Hi - that depends on the year of your Mercedes. Did you see this video I did on the fuel senders? kzbin.info/www/bejne/opmmmnZjgM2nd80 Mike