Knife Steels RANKED 2024! Premium Or TRASH?

[@metal_complex]

There are so many people skipping/ignoring the ranking explanation. As i stated in the beginning of the video, this is NOT a "performance" based ranking. The categories are based on how COSTLY the steel itself tends to be, or to be more specific, how much of the cost of the knife is based on the steel itself REGARDLESS of how it performs. "Performance" is relative and could be ranked in an infinite number of ways. Some of my lower tier steels were mis ranked because I forget which Chinese steels are identical to others, but my point stands. If you are trying to force this ranking system to be based on performance, you misunderstood or completely ignored the intro. I could have changed words like "premium" to "expensive" for a more clear representation, but we all know this wouldn't have stopped some people from aggressively missing the point. The context is all there.

[@danielfinger6223]

I didn't watch it. I just jumped to the end of the chart. I think you did a good measurement of what is now a guessing game with too many different variables and different outcomes. But that is science and that's what keeps me still hungry for that knowledge. Some take your discussions and opinion way too seriously. It got my mind into it. Bam! You done did yo duty! 😆

[@danielfinger6223]

@Bethany415 Maybe you should be the producer for him. He's not that bad . I mean you watched it 🤷 If he was ignorant with the knife business I wouldn't have subscribed. Show some love! ✌️

[@amrouvs5172]

I was wondering what your opinion on 80CRV2 is. I would love your feedback.

[@davidglyn9218]

I thought the ‘trash’ rated steels were talked about in terms of performance, or maybe I just took it that way.

[@metal_complex]

​@@davidglyn9218noted their bad performance but they were ranked that way because they are very inexpensive and undesirable steels. In that case, performance and cost directly correspond

[@minimalistedc1193]

You should make the last couple frames of this video a tier list where everything is just random so people that just go to the end to see the list get triggered by seeing Magnacut in trash tier.

[@OreoDave]

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@not-a-raccoon]

Oooooh, that's evil. I approve 🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@danielchrysalis6554]

Lol

[@howlinhauler]

i love MC but he does not WORK with steel and is more on the SALES side of steel. cheers

[@luger9857]

Yes plz😂😂😂

[@metal_complex]

My Amazon page! The gear I use here on the channel! - www.amazon.com/shop/metalcomplex Metal Complex's recommended knives! - kzbin.info/aero/PLqAK7GyLGMyGrXe7FzsLOgd71pzbwSqbc&si=BYIIatGa8E3Lh86Z Thanks so much for watching! You can support my channel on Patreon here - www.patreon.com/metalcomplex MC stickers! - www.redbubble.com/people/metal-complex/shop?asc=u

[@blamedexter]

Didnt include CPM 69420 disliked and unsubscribed

[@samblount2541]

😂 my favorite

[@jaytree_75]

😂

[@rickradix6174]

I prefer CPM 68420. That's where I owe you one.

[@a2thak1981]

Nice.

[@talisikid1618]

Bye!

[@48mastadon]

It amazes me how yesteryear's super steel is today's budget steel. Just ten years ago, Cold Steel used AUS8 on most of their knives, including the Espada knives costing up to $350.00.

[@frank_MT]

I have 10$ stainless steel knives, super intense, I've been using water for 30 years and they're in perfect condition, it's all relative, maybe a K390 wouldn't last the same amount of time using it the same way, but it's a Premium

[@karabinas]

Moores Law, but with steels.😊

[@ScrubLordJenkins]

​@@frank_MTwhat do you mean by last?

[@frank_MT]

@@ScrubLordJenkins It is a contraindication of the translator perhaps "It would not resist"

[@duderinoification]

Aus8 is still great. Wears quick but easy to sharpen to a razor

[@SozoLeeJames]

I have worked with 440C and it's definitely good budget it holds a decent edge and with proper heat treatment can bend over 45 degrees before it snaps real good survival steel that will take awhile but can be sharpened with a river rock and has decent rust protection if taken care of!

[@cintage]

I am a complete Steel Nerd and I often agree with you here. Just 14C28N, S45VN, AR-RPM9, and especially Cruwear need to be placed higher and 420HC is definitely not better than 440C. And I like Elmax even better than S35VN. 7CR, 440A and B and especially 4116 (which is better than 420HC!) are better than trash. 9Cr18MoV is basically similar to 440B, so they can’t be separated by two tiers. Sleipner is rather mid-range, it’s an improved D2. I understand that it’s mainly the cost you use to place them, but referring to only the costs leaves a fuzzy expression. H1 would be higher then, because it’s rather expensive. But it’s not a good steel for a knife generally. 420J2 is decent for Sanmai if a decent core steel is used BTW. Highly entertaining video!

[@jimmycricket7946]

I agree except for apr rpm9. I think it's a horrible proprietary budget steel and cjrb should drop it immediately and rethink what steel to use. They obviously didn't do exhaustive research and development when creating this steel because it sucks. I would have simply went with 14c28n it's cheap enough but idk how easily they can get their hands on it. A properly heat treated D2 can be very good as well and is corrosive resistant enough for most people.

[@BladeLabMiami]

Elmax is identical to s45 in terms of toughness, edge retention, and corrosion resistance ... according to Larrin Thomas.

[@cintage]

@@jimmycricket7946 My experiences are totally different.

[@cintage]

@@BladeLabMiami That's why both need to be placed higher.

[@metal_complex]

I noted the miss ranking of 440B. The ranking isn't "better" or "worse". It's based on cost and how specialized the steel is. Performance is all relative. Some of these lower end steels are definitely miss ranked though because I forget which Chinese compositions are the same as the others.

[@hificat101]

LC200N was the steel NASA developed for ball bearings. 52100 was just an earlier steel thatvwas comminly use in ball bearings.

[@DuhYaThink]

And Aeb-L is like a stainless 52100 👍🏻

[@greekveteran2715]

@@DuhYaThink That's a theory, in reality, they are very different. I get edge retention higher than Elmax and better edge stability (toughness) than 3V with all my handforged ballbearing steel knives. Not even close with my AEB-L's.. softer and edge retention is like 4 to 5 times less.

[@Monsoonpain]

​@greekveteran2715 - i believe you...heat treatment, geometry make for huge variables.

[@Monsoonpain]

​@@DuhYaThink- true...DCA on Knifecenter was talking about the relationship between 52-100/ AEBL

[@greekveteran2715]

@@Monsoonpain That's true, however, AEB-L, is a much softer stainless steel, where ballbearing steels, usually are harder alloys that keep their edges way longer.Different type of steels and very different performance between them. KZbinr's that know little to nothing about knives or steel, usually spread nonsence, like the "AeB-L, is the same or similar to a ballbearing steel. Not even close.

[@TheMaroney]

14c28n i think i would move up to mid range. Especially if its heat treated correctly.

[@laxphenom20]

I do think it’s important to note S30v was the first steel developed specifically for pocket knives.

[@MidNightsHunter]

I enjoyed your presentation but Cruwear & Nitro V (very Tough, yes weak edge retention) seem to rank too low. The blade steels are created or used for different tasks so it is hard to have a generalized ranking.

[@maxlvledc]

This is awesome! Actually very helpful. Can you make this tier list available for others to do it as well with different criteria??

[@Leftyotism]

I would put VG-10 into upper mid range. It's important to also rank within a category.

[@shawnstpierre3689]

@metal_complex. Fixed blade knife maker here. AEB-L is one of my fav steels to work with. You can put it right there with 14c and Nitro-V as all 3 are almost identical. Fun fact. AEB-L is the toughest stainless steel on the market. A2 is one of the best fixed hard use knife steels. Also I’d like to mention. I think there’s a lot of hype surrounding steels. I think you should make a list of good steels period. Not what tier because of price. Because if I’m honest I’d buy some of those “good budget steels” over lots of the premium and “ultra premium”. I value well rounded steels over super brittle edge retention steels.

[@Benny-jt9cj]

I completely agree with you

[@TwitchRadio]

14c28n is my favorite because of the affordability and really digging the toughness and stainless AKA rust proof😂✌️

[@andrewplaysoutside]

14c28n is wonderful. Best in its price range of all the steels I've tried.

[@TwitchRadio]

@andrewplaysoutside yeah, when I got into steel and knifes... I Weighed all the pros and cons of all the different steels that were out there, I kept coming back to this one... yeah I could have stepped it up and got better Edge retention, but I really couldn't justify spending more than what the steel usually cost in that right under $100 but over 50.. but nowadays you can even find some off branded knives in the steel for like 25 bucks, crazy.... regardless it's just a really good rounded steel for everyday use, EDC, ect... I always wanted to get my hands on some better steel but I can never justify spending $200 - $300 on a fixed blade 3 - 4 inch... been in savings mode ever since covid😔... I don't know maybe one of these days I'll go ahead and Splurge a few extra bucks and try something different.. Anyways, just board typing lol.. Thanks for your time / reply 😎✌️

[@papa_edc]

I'm really wondering about my MBK Rosalinda. It's ZDP-189 @ 66-67, but it is centered between two pieces of 420J. Is the use of 420J in this case more acceptable or are MBK knives not worth the price?

[@jou3332]

I think it‘s good. But Elmax and CrueWear are Premium in my Opinion. Elmax is quite Similar to m390. (With the Right Heat Treatment) Elmax are a little Bit tougher than m390, m390 are little Bit better in Edge retention. CrueWear is in Performance quite similar to V4E/4V. Sleipner is Mid Range, Like VG10 and N690 but tougher. What do you think about SB1/Niolox? Im from Germany, SB1 is here really popular.

[@Palonames]

Exactly. I would pick Elmax for bushcraft knive, m390 for smaller knives. Both premium.

[@TheGuidedSharpeningGuide]

Also i forgot to add that a couple years ago i was working for a pump company that rebuilt water pumps and electric motors for the coal mines and for a long time all of our bearings we used were tempkin brand and in 52100 and they were awesome. I brought home a few of the rollers when we would replace a bearing and used them with some 1095 powder and made some pretty good canister Damascus.

[@davidclifford7539]

Very informative.... High value.... Took a screen shot with my phone for ready reference.... Well done....

[@ok-nh5ue]

Thanks for making this amazing list, I can see you put alot of effort and time into making it! I just had one question: Can you please elaborate on why you think AUS-10 is on the LOW END - since its properties are very similair with VG10 & 154CM and is often way more afordable. I would love to hear your take on it. Thanks! (I personaly think it belongs in the MID RANGE, especialy taking in regard the afordability in contrast to VG10 and 154CM. But then again, that is just my opinion)

[@metal_complex]

Check the pinned comment 👍

[@georgedoesstuff170]

I gotta say I love these Tier lists! Informative an controversial at the same time!! I like to see this list done again but in two parts. a FOLDER tier list and a FIXED BLADE tier list. ;)

[@ScrubLordJenkins]

Im curious to see how muxh further we can push steel compositions. Will we get to a point that steels like rex 45, m390, and s45vn are considered low end?

[@paranoiia8]

Really close to what I think about steel, but I would argue about few things: -14C28N is mid range just like Nitro-V and AEB-L that are very similar, because in everyday usage most of knives with that steel are just great, it have nice toughness its easy to sharpen and it keep good edge even if sometimes companies hit lower hardness on it. -12C27 is good budget as you can sharpen it to razor.... as it is razor steel, I have it on my Petrified fish PF719 that I put 12* angle edge and after cutting lots of plastic with it it still hold sharpness. -420HC no matter of what brand is not better than 440C, past years 440C most of knives with it hit nice quality and hardness, so its hard to find bad 440C... but you can almost ALWAYS find badly made 420HC. -Even if 154CM and CPM154 have the same composition, quality of CPM154 make it WAY better. 154CM is my favorite steel but after using few knives with CPM variant you really can see the difference in how edge behave after longer usage. I didnt believe in it at first but I was surprised... maybe its quality of specific knife, Im not sure but still... -Elmax and m390 is pretty much the same in everyday usage and sharpening. -H1 is low-end... it just is.

[@0ecka]

That is exactly right. I mean, that's my exact thought after watching the video. Thank you for saving me some typing time here )). I think that 14C28N (and AEB-L) actually beats the Nitro-V and it should be at least in the same tier. And how is the A2 not a GOOD BUDGET steel? ) How is it better than 14C28N? It's like a non-stainless AUS-8 at best. Isn't it? I would put the 440C in GOOD BUDGET. It's not that much worse than the BD1 (if at all). While some people would put it right next to the 154CM, because it's like a more stainless D2.

[@TheRyanPowers1]

@@0ecka I think it comes down to Complex being a knife purchaser and the relative "value" of the metals - if companies make good budget knives with 14C28N then that's where he ranks it. 14C28N should be more mid-high, but great toughness compared to lower edge retention (a more obvious characteristic) devalues it to the knife community at large which generally values edge retention more. 440s were good budget 5-10 years ago, but have been outpaced by D2 and the steels knife companies developed (SPY27, ARRPM9) to replace them and AUS8/8Cr. The only reason Complex puts 420HC in good budget is because of Buck making respectable knives in it. Inherently 420HC and all the 440s are low-end these days. Just better stuff out there even for cheap. Ultimately Complex's opinion is good for casual fans. This ranking will not lead people down a wrong path. Anyone doing a deeper dive should be doing their own research and looking at KnifeSteelNerds. Larrin Thomas literally wrote the book on knife steel before developing Magnacut...

[@0ecka]

@@TheRyanPowers1 Yes, of course. But, still, seeing BD1 sitting 3 tiers higher than 440A, while performing similarly, rises some questions )).

[@2amichaelj]

I'm really just learning about knives and the steel material. Were knives always this varied or has the market exploded recently?

[@Isaiiahii]

Super steels are the rage now, but for good reason. We knife guys want edge retention because we mostly use knives to cut. I don't know how many new steels there are now, but knives are being made out of many different steels these days.

[@laxphenom20]

AEB-L is essentially 13c26n and when used in kitchen knives is sometimes called FC61

[@jeffhicks8428]

only miyabi which is owned by zwilling calls AEBL fc61. that's not a real thing, it's a marketing term. and miyabi knives are trash. twice as thick (or more) behind the edge as another mainstream knife like Shun. Thicker than 40$ victioinoix and doesn't cut as good either. handle heavy. gaudy styling and flashy. they're all sizzle and no steak for morons who don't know anything about kitchen knives. with their washington monument choils and 24 thou behind the edge. I'm sure edc bros would love them tho. miyabis are literally the worst knives you can get for the money. absolute trash. I own 3 of them. They're trash.

[@MylesDavid]

Hey, how do you feel about 80CrV2 as in the Winkler stuff? Is there a particular knife metal that you would choose if you were building a knife for battle? Super tough, great edge retention, that you do almost anything with? Thanks so much!!

[@Cid_1]

420J2 I would consider more of a lamination/jacketing steel than a core steel, BUT it is used as a blade steel on cheap knives. The mastermind at Carpenter who thought to combine 440C & D2 and came up with CTS XHP should get a medal, that steel is such a great performing user steel. I have heard CTS XHP is now discontinued, I hope that's not true. Some amazing steel on this list, people might disagree with some of the placements but it's not their list 😅

[@DuhYaThink]

Spyderco is dropping a bhq exclusive xhp Shaman soon.

[@jayr526]

I recently picked up a Spyderco in CTS XHP. I think that it was the chaparral. It could have been something else. I like this steel. I have a lot of Cold steel knives in this steel.

[@CharlyCD93]

Have you used H1 for a considerable amount of time? Perhaps 1 to 3 months of dedicated use?

[@J0eMega]

I thought cruwear would be higher due to how well-rounded it is. I heard it was like MagnaCut but slightly nerfed.

[@jkanecutlery]

Cru-Wear is a little tougher. The edge retention is basically the same. MagnaCut is a true stainless, while Cru-Wear is “semi-stainless.”

[@J0eMega]

⁠@@jkanecutlery I actually have two spyderco PM2’s, one in cruwear and one in magnacut, and what you said basically hit the nail on the head. In terms of performance, I honestly can’t tell the difference between the two. I don’t use em for super hard tasks, or near water lol.

[@alfieboy4022]

In my experience it’s easier to get a freakishly sharp edge on cruwear vs magnacut. So I actually prefer it due to its sharpenability (as do many others). Magnacut wins on corrosion resistance if that’s more important to you.

[@J0eMega]

@@alfieboy4022 haven’t had to sharpen my cru-wear or MagnaCut blades yet, but by “easy” do you mean the steel can form and sustain a sharper edge, or that it’s easier to sharpen, in general? From what I’ve read, the ease of general sharpening is similar for both steels.

[@hificat101]

Cruwear is beyond any doubt ultra premium. Excellent toughness, very good edge retention, and it's borderline stainless.

[@metal_complex]

Na. CruWear is definitely where it should be

[@Cyanoblades]

@@metal_complex Agreed

[@l4so102]

Yes but that's true for a lot of the high end steels, to be ultra premium it has to have something more

[@jonesyxxiv]

I could see Cruwear in premium but no way it’s it ultra premium.

[@ToRo909r]

@@metal_complexyou put 20CV over Cruwear? You gotta be kidding. S45VN is better than 20CV and M390.

[@diabloiii4234]

I’m looking for a stiletto switch blade and while ik that they are not meant for EDC I still want it to have the best quality possible Unfortunately all that I could find were made with 440A steel or worse What steel should I look out for a switch blade like that ? Does anyone have recommendations of brands or websites that could sell sturdy stilettos ?

[@metal_complex]

Even the nicest ones are delicate. Latama might be your best bet, but those won't have special steel

[@diabloiii4234]

@ yeah that’s the issue while latama seems to be pretty premium for a traditional stiletto their issue is precisely that, they want to keep it the traditional way wether it’s with their nail-ripping pin lock or with the premium aspect being on the materials of the handle rather than the blade Tbh I’m surprised that no one tried to make some sturdy stilettos, the same way people made katanas using modern high quality steel instead of tamahagane that suck I’d rather have that even if it means that it’s not an historical brand collector piece

[@chasetoncain]

i make a lot of kitchen knives out of AEB-L and it’s super similar to 14c28n but is easier for custom makers to get and it easy to work with while also getting up to like 64 HRC while still being tough as nails so good in the kitchen. love the video!!

[@tomlevasseur8550]

I sharpen a lot of that steel on kitchen knives, and it is so nice and gives a beautiful sharp edge

[@ElonaldTrusk]

You mentioned not knowing alot about AEBL or having kuch experience with it... Well, id love to send you a small fixed blade in aebl at high hardness so you can see how it does on the stones! Id love to see how sharp you can get it!

[@Homanjer]

The real problem here is that most of the knives that have more or less appealing (to me) designs, are often D2, or some sort of 440 steel. Spyderco makes a lot of different knives from different steels, but they all look like Spyderco knives, which I personally don't find aesthetically pleasing at all.

[@oweng.3102]

I don't like the way they look either, but give 'em a chance. They have great ergonomics!

[@Rob-Banks-g]

Where would you place asp-60 like whats found in the maxace killer whale 2.0?

[@johnricks7277]

So as somewhat of a novelist knife guy. At this point all of my knives are users, I do stick to S30V, S35VN and D2 steals. I try to stay in the $160 or less price range. I've recently decided to get into the higher end side of things. Where's a good place to start looking? Also what brands are recommended for someone starting out with a collection?

[@stout_tossme7541]

Chris Reeve. McNees TRM (best built for the price) Heretic OTS (Pariah is a good start) Don't ignore the high-end Chinese. Reate. WE. Bestech. Artisan. Kansept (they all have well-built high-end stuff) There are some ideas off the top of my head.

[@spkhy8385]

Kansept has some pretty wildly cheap knives for the steel, if you’re okay with their style. I have a Korvid XL in 154cm and Micarta for $88.

[@joelhunter984]

BGM, or Dulo knives are awesome. Great steels and decent price for what you get especially DULO KNIVES.

[@sloanNYC]

I think LC200N is underrated by many. Sure, not great edge retention, but man, it is tough and super high corrosion resistant. I'm super happy that MagnaCut knives are coming down to such great prices too.

[@TerminalM193]

I still feel like magnacut is in this very weird and misunderstood high pedestal. In my opinion magnacut is one of the more reliant steels when it comes to heat treat. I still see companies charging WAYYYYYY too much for 60-62HRC magnacut when magnacut doesn't even begin to both hold a proper edge and have equal toughness until 63HRC at an absolute minimum! Honestly magnacut doesn't deserve to be ANYWHERE near high end or even mid range for that matter unless a minimum of 63HRC is achieved.

[@smokiestacorn5503]

What would you place O2 (90mncrv8) at?

[@ClintCoon1976]

Thanks for validating my Spyderco Rex45 purchase from this morning!!!!! Stormtrooper Sprint from GP on a Manix!!!

[@Rammer_Jammer]

Rex45 is great but it will rust if not taking care of properly

[@J0eMega]

@@Rammer_Jammer how often are we talking? Because my Manix is in maxamet, which also isn’t stainless (if I remember correctly), and it hasn’t stained yet in the few weeks I’ve had it.

[@nonyabusiness1126]

Recommend a few for a survival bowie please?

[@davidglyn9218]

I’m glad s30v and s35vn are moving down the list as they are my two favorite knife steels and are getting less expensive 🎉

[@REDNECKROOTS]

Mine to. I've got the esee xancudo in s35vn. It's my favorite knife to edc. It's perfect size for up front horizontal carry , rowen heatvtreated s35vn has great toughness and edge retention, at 61hrc

[@jeramocolto]

S35vn and Elmax are the best steels right now for cost/performance IMO. I particularly love Chris Reeve's s35vn on the Nyala.

[@bigboss4993]

But what about 4034 is it better or worse than aus 8?

[@olafkliemt1145]

sweet, actually the first one i almost 100% agree with. only thing is the two Sandviks should be one up.

[@mitchblackmore5230]

Thank you so much for this list. Very helpful. What are your thoughts on VG-Max? I have a few Japanese kitchen knives that use that for the core.

[@ShadowWhippler]

AEB-L is similar to 14C28N, i would move both up a level, and bring VG-10, 154CM, and N690 down a level. 80CrV2 is missing, awesome carbonsteel when it has been heattreated to high hardnes.

[@whitefaze13]

I have an 80crv2, but I think this type of steel is meant for fixed blades versus foldable, as it’s a super tough steel when treated right, but severely lacks any corrosion resistance as its main drawback without coating. I feel foldable knives need more corrosion resistance due to being more present in ones pocket and susceptible to sweat (salty water) in the open, as opposed to most fixed blades being carried in a sheath. I think with that being said, most steels can be used for any application, but I’d argue 80crv2 is better suited to fixed blades. Mine for example you can use to chop wood with pounding on the back of the blade without worry of it breaking.

[@jflabrosse9707]

It's crazy how D2 was a premium steel 20 years ago and it's now a budget steel, just goes to show how much has been done to refine steel compositions to exact use cases rather than use what is available and make it work.

[@Mr_KnifeGuy]

I agree MagnaCut is an amazing steel, The name alone is way cooler than any other steel lol. But my S35 and S45 knives are retaining the edge a bit better than my MagnaCut, same with my 20CV Rosie to my Magna Rosie, the magna keeps getting little rough spots and tiny chips. The S35/45 get dull, but the edge doesn't chip. I like this property better in a steel personally. the Mcnees is the only Magna knife have not experienced that with. I would have the S35/45 in Premium and Magna as well. Great video as always!

[@jou3332]

I think, the Heat treatment of your Magnacut is bad….

[@gamallsdokkalfs7253]

Metal Complex, I believe you did a very good job. Thank you. I'm 66 years old and I've been collecting knifes for many years, however, mostly good budget knives. However, I did just buy a CPM Magnacut RMJ Tactical UCAP knife. I also stated making knives a few years ago, both forging carbon steels and using the stock-removal method. I have two observations for you. First, there are many additional carbon steels that you didn't discuss like 1084, 15N20 and 80CrV2. Notably, the 1095 Cro Van used by ESEE, KABAR, TOPS and many others. And second, I wished you'd talked more about Magnacut. Knives made of Magnacut are becoming much more available at the $100 to $200+ range. Also, you can purchase Magnacut steel from Alpha Knife Supply for a reasonable cost, and it doesn't appear to be too difficult to heat treat.

[@dan_taninecz_geopol]

Good video. Some thoughts: - 14c28n is criminally underrated. We prize edge retention so much, but this steel takes an insane edge and while it doesn't hold it that long it's easy to bring back. Throw in ultra ultra stainlessness AND insane strength, it's perhaps the best non PM user steel. - cruwear (and 3v tbh) are wonderful and premium imo because they're nearly stainless at 7.5/8% Chromium but have all the strengths of tool steel (like strength). - I still have lots of questions about s30v's strength. Larrin's website has a range for strength for the other S steels, but a single data point for s30v. Given Spyderco's utilization of it as a user steel on hard use knives I suspect it might be stronger than advertised.

[@stephenwest798]

Have one folder and one fixed blade in 14c28n and love the steel, tough as hell and easy to sharpen.

[@kenanmammadov7281]

Hi! What are your thoughts on Cruwear? i Want to get the PM2 in Cru-carta because its an absolute beauty! but I don't know if the steel used is good or not. I see you put it in High end, but could you explain why this is? If I could get a magnacut PM2 with Micarta scales that would be the greatest knife ever!2

[@conservation4africa293]

Just gettit, i have mine in cruwear and it is on par with s45vn

[@dongustafson2304]

Cruwear can take a crazy sharp edge, get it.

[@JustinCase-em6ql]

Move Cruwear and LC200N up one to Premium, and move 14C28N and AEB-L up one to mid level.

[@siebakk827]

any help the best cooking knife around €100 +/- ? I was thonig about hajegato Damascus Chef Knife Kiritsuke 8

[@hificat101]

WOW, just wow. Is S125V so "ultra premium" that virtually nobody makes a knife out of it?

[@metal_complex]

Yes. It's extremely expensive to make and work with

[@gareygerosky8030]

I have a Russian made knife in s125v

[@BladeLabMiami]

I think Transparent Knives has done reblades in 125v.

[@nathantrieu4957]

19:10 AEB-L is basically just 14c28n, although in my experience it can get a better edge (might be because the heat treat, the AEB-L knives ive had tend to be nicer than 14c28n). Folders its ok, edge retention could be better, but great for chef knives

[@VillainousJake]

The bottom tier on these should always be called "PooPoo Town."

[@iamchaos1399]

Why? I have knock offs that are better than high end made

[@VillainousJake]

@@iamchaos1399 Are you alluding the the steel on your knock offs?

[@metal_complex]

That statement "I have knock offs that are better than high ever made". Be ready to be proven wrong friend.

[@doobydootoo]

Yes if you are 6

[@metal_complex]

@doobydootoo you would be placed in poopoo town

[@glennhynes5263]

You should have included edge retention in the graph by going left to right in each category (highest on the left) Good vid

[@extraecclesiamnullasalus4148]

You have Cruwear in the “high end” category, does CPM-Cruwear go into premium since D2 was in “good budget” but CPM D2 was put into the category above in the “mid range” category? Great video, I’ve been looking for something like this.

[@davidknep]

What about Vanadis 8?

[@charleswtuggle]

I really liked your video, I would like to know where you would place 14c28n in good or mid range. Thanks for this ranking and how you did the video.

[@vinceabbott5438]

What realm you play on? I don't play anymore myself, just curious lol.

[@brown5252]

Where would you put 8Cr14MoV ?

[@barboki]

@metal_complex thanks for this video. This was quite insightful and helped further my understanding in bladesteels. I did wonder on RWL 34 since I just purchased a Herman off DLT that is in RWL 34 but when you look at the detailed description it says Damasteel RWL34 powder stainless steel, what is the difference if any? Lastly on H1, I have carried a serrated Spyderco Pacific Salt since 2011 and it has been sharp since day 1 but I do not cut much and it is serrated.

[@chriscrawls6885]

RWL 34 is made my the Damasteel Company. So saying “Damasteel RWL34” is like saying “Bohler M390” or “CPM S35VN”

[@barboki]

@@chriscrawls6885 Thanks I did not know that

[@kayshell66]

I have a $300 balisong in AEB-L but I know that most of the cost is coming from the finish of the handles, the quality of construction, USA made etc. due to the toughness I would say it works great for that application but the steel itself does belong in Good Budget or Mid Range at best.

[@frustratedalien666]

I understand the intent of this video, which is why I am requesting a follow up that focuses on durability, edge retention, and ease of sharpening regardless of cost. For example, I have some 14C28N knives that work just as well as knives that cost twice or even three times the cost, probably because of the way these specific knives were heat treated. I understand this would be subjective to some extent, but since we zero-in on 3 characteristics, I think it will work.

[@metal_complex]

knifesteelnerds.com/2021/10/19/knife-steels-rated-by-a-metallurgist-toughness-edge-retention-and-corrosion-resistance/

[@aaronh305]

I hope that video gets made. It would be far more interesting to me.

[@Freddyalvizo]

Very informative video. How would you rate 10V? Metal, Metal, anyone?

[@mannycano4599]

for the longest, I swore by S30v but my EDC that I currently have is 154 cm honestly, it's a really decent Steel

[@crawlingrocket116]

From what I've learned AEB-L is fantastic for thin slicing geometries because it is so tough. However, it really does need the premium cryogenic heat treatment to get to HRC 63-65 to really shine. And then maybe it's not so cheap anymore.

[@GBall_Vision]

Imo 14c is one of the best knife steels on the market. Super steel tough, not much is tougher, great corrosion resistance almost super steel like, holds a decent edge and is able to be sharpened insanely easily

[@Fishbag61]

I'm with you on that one...especially considering the price range of the knives you find it on.

[@SetAside777]

New to knives. Is a lightweight Mannix 2 good enough, or is G10 only good? I heard a reviewer talk a lot of shit about frn.

[@mooosey]

I have both and they are both great knives!

[@geekof92]

Does the ARRPM-9 revelation effect your estimation of it's value? since it isn't a true CPM, it seems to be less of a bargain to me.

[@lewisward4359]

Nice list and it shows your knowledge. I have several William Collins' fixed blade knies in AEB-L and they could be rated Mid Range, because of the heat treat. From my experience with older knives with 1095 steel and good heat treatment could also be in that category. Of course, you already know the many variables.

[@MrBowser2012]

I’ve got a couple Bradford Kitchen knives in AEB-L. For kitchen knives I would put this in at least the mid-range tier. I like this steel, but it might not be great for EDC.

[@tiyea430]

Great video! What do you think about SR-101 steel? Which category would that be listed in?Thanks keep up the great work!

[@DynamicAthleteHub]

Hey what about cpm 3v like my maxace hephestus or my Midgards Messer backup tactical

[@DuhYaThink]

Is edge retention not one of the most important aspects of a cutting tool?

[@stevedye3121]

Depends upon intended use

[@Phrish]

Any thoughts on K890 steel (Bohler Udeholm... spelling?)?

[@stefanromanescu724]

What's your opinion on hap40?

[@G19Jeeper]

Where would you put Cold Steels old Carbon V and Ontarios 5160?

[@Cycle774]

This is very helpful. I had a fundamental idea of ranking but the extra detail is great. Thanks for your efforts!

[@tarinindell8217]

Looking for some knife suggestions. I need to cut a bunch of shrink wrap off of pallets at work and it slips off of my normal drop point blades. Looking for something like a hawk bill or recurve blade that will gather the material into the cut. Im right handed, and the blade needs to lock, i dont really care what kind of lock though. Knife needs to be under $200, but ideally it would be under $100 Normally i prefer tougher steels, but this knife will ONLY be used to cut shrink wrap, so harder steels are fine for once. My current front runner is the "claw" pattern from Honey Badger. Suggestions?

[@petdoe8938]

Look at spiderco knifes with yellow handles a lot of them have halkbill blade shapes great for cling film

[@NiKoJlaY]

Hello, Thank you for this video , is very helpful! I'm absolutely 0 in Knife industry, I only have 1 pocket knife, I've bought it because I like how it looks like, It's Buck 110 Folding Hunter Finger Groove. I love how this knife looks , and as I realized later that it's a legendary knife, but looks like they use 420 Stainless Steel and this steel in your rating is in Trash category as I understand or that is a different type of steel? After your video, I found 2 more knifes that I like, one is Kizer Azo Drop Bear Toxic Storm Fat Carbon Folding Knife with 20CV Stainless Steel and another one is Benchmade 15535OR-01 Taggedout Magnacut Carbon Fibre Folding Knife with MagnaCut , the price is almost x2 for Benchmade, does it worth to pay that much extra for a Benchmade with MagnaCut or Kizer with 20CV is also enough good? Or if it's possible can you recommend me please some knife brands with good steels that you can't go wrong with. I'll be happy to hear anyone opinion or ideas. Thank You!

[@archaicwarri0r355]

buck 110 is a legendary knife, that revolutionized the pocket knife game, it was the first folding kind that had a lock back design, the steel of 440 now is considered cheap steel, but back when buck first started they used high carbon steel which helped the knife be scary sharp, but it would rust if not maintained well. so it being made with 440 now allows it to still be a cheap pocket knife, that is pretty much every kids first knife from their dad. Now for the second part of your comment, if you're looking to get a new knife and dont wanna break the bank, i personally love vg10 steel, its a happy medium of holding a great edge while also being easy to sharpen, even if youre completely new to sharpening knives. So personally i go after spyderco knives, if you have small hands, get a knife like spyderco dragonfly " i prefer the one with g 10 handles" if you have regular hands look at the delica. if you have huge hands look at the paramilatary. but if you dont like the way spydercos look i understand alot of people dont, but i rather go form and function over looks, you can always get a benchmade 940. if you have a budget just respond and i can help you with finding something youd be happy with

[@NiKoJlaY]

@archaicwarri0r355 Thank you so much for your reply! In my case, I want beautiful knives but at the same time a good one. I don't really need a poket knife, but I like them. They brought me memories from my childhood when I was going to the forest with my grandfather soviet poket folding knife and collecting different mushroom and after my grandma can make some good food with those mushroom for a dinner. So, at the moment, I want a 3 knives collection, I already have the Buck , so I need 2 more. Probably I'll not gonna use them, it's more like a hobby, on my day's off to have a look at them, touch, try to make a picture of them. At the moment, my dream knife is ROCKSTEAD Shu Zdp-Dp , but I understand that this is too much, and this would be just a toy, plus I'm not a rich guy so I don't wanna save money for a few months just to buy a knife, but overall I love how that knife looks like, it's perfection for me. Two days ago, I almost ordered Kizer Varatas Titanium Black, but I decided to wait a little bit to try to go deeper in this industry and study. If Buck is absolutely classic knife, another two in my collection I'll like them to be more colourful, with a black blade, maybe interesting design but at the same time with good quality and value for money brand. I don't have like a specific budget, but I'm ready to spend like $ ~500 in total for 2 more cool knives. For Buck, I spend ~100 $ for the other two, I'm ready for ~250$, or 1 can be 150$ and another 350$, for example. I'll be happy for any suggestions. Thank you. About the hand, I think my hands are between small and medium, so I don't need like extra big or extra small knives to feel comfortable with them.

[@rays5163]

where would you put apex ultra?

[@Quackenfr]

you place everything on the edge but also you should place the best of the tier all the way left (im curious about how much better or worse is vg-10 than the other mid range steels)

[@SES5925]

Thoughts on SK-85 (SK5) for fixed blade only in the rankings?

[@randallcrenshaw3871]

Good Video, A lot of budget steel is good steel with the proper heat treat, for my hunting knife I like my bark river d2 steel drop point hunter it's a great knife, spyderco sv30 is a good everyday but a little heavy the premiums I find harder to sharpen butagree they are not an edc

[@mikehouser7587]

I’m a fairly new person and understand knife design and blade geometry but as a newbie I have to say this is hurting my head. How about a biz card size chart we can print and take along in the billfold? Thanks for this though it does help!

[@kurtbilinski1723]

Take a screenshot of the table in the video, paste it into Word, size it accordingly, and print it out.

[@jocemarine6247]

Thank you for revision👍🏻 But I have few points that I don't agree. D2 Many people seem to do not appreciate this steel 🤔 Why ? Medford are doing knifes in D2 over 400.00 ? 🤔 14C28N as Nitro V should be in mid range steel. It perform very very well. And last point ZDP189 is an awsome blale and the king of edge retention that should place him in ultra premium. Give us your feedback about it and thank you again 😉

[@nickbavas5864]

Where does Busse INFI place here ?

[@AlexanderMason1]

12:28 actually you can’t get razor blades made of tungsten carbine because they would be far too brittle. You can get steel razor blades that are tungsten carbine coated, though.

[@Hallucinosis]

RIP Nitro-V apparently. I would put it, along with 14C28N up to mid-range. I'd also bump K390 up to ultra premium. Great edge retention, especially done at 64-66RHC. My favorite non-stainless. I look at it as an upgrade to M4.

[@Hallucinosis]

Oh oops, you did add Nitro-V

[@Tusk2001]

Where would you put 5160?

[@tonnywildweasel8138]

I'm fairly new to all this. And I have a question: doesn't a good or bad heat treatment also make a big difference for the toughness or practical usability of a knife? I meen, An inferior steel with good heat treatment can produce a better knife than a better steel with poor heat treatment, right? I learn as I go, and would like to thank everyone who responds in advance ! Greets, TW.

[@metal_complex]

Correct

[@tonnywildweasel8138]

@@metal_complex : Thanks 👍

[@P1GEONPOO]

Is S125v still available? I thought they'd discontinued it but like I say it was ages ago when I was a steel junkie lol.

[@GrindingKnives]

Another awesome video brother, loved it! And Warren Thomas was the one who predominantly made Tungsten Carbide blades popular. This vid is fantastic for both newbies and us old heads in the community as well. Keep up the great work! 🤙🏻💪🏻

[@JDSFLA]

You don't list Nitro V, but it has to be either Good Budget or Mid Range. I think it may just be a tad inferior to 154CM, but it is close, so I would put in mid range.

[@sodathief]

How is s35vn and s45vn in the same category? That hurts my brain. Also what about nitro v?

[@metal_complex]

S35VN and S45VN are extremely similar outside of the increased corrosion resistance of S45VN. They belong in the same category. Nitro V was places towards the end

[@dillionclayton2152]

Edge retention IS KING, when it comes to knives. What is the one most important thing about a knife. Will it cut what you are trying to cut? If i have to constantly keep sharpening my blade all the time to keep it sharp enough to cut things, i dont want it... simple as that. Why all my knives are s30v, s45vn and so on.

[@mosszaphod]

Thanks for the great video! Where would you rate CPM-CRUWEAR?

[@metal_complex]

It's there

[@mosszaphod]

@metal_complex - Somehow I missed it! My apologies. Thanks again for this much needed info on the quality of metals!

[@EdjeBos]

I have used this list quite often, so thank you for posting this. Very helpfull! 🙂👍🏻

[@01hyder91]

What about Nitro-V? Where would you put it?