Tilting Trikes Part 11- project progress and a closer look at the tilting and steering mechanism

[@MetalMachineShop]

I hope you find this update interesting. Feel free to leave any questions or comments. Best wishes, MMS.

[@jakobchaney6819]

I'm interested to see what happens when one front wheel hits a bump/pothole. Will it cause issues at higher speeds?

[@MetalMachineShop]

@@jakobchaney6819 pot holes probably best avoided if possible but I don't see it being a particular problem. The wheel separation is not that great, so the tendency to spin the trike should be limited. Time will tell I guess, I'll put it to the test in due course.

[@Maker1000]

Fantastic build. Will be mimicking something similar for my e-trike project.

[@vitoferrero8425]

Highly educational and entertaining. I have myself a dream of a project similar to the one you are doing, but for the moment my finances are not ready. Neverhteless the inspiration I find on your work gives me hope of one day realizing my dream project. Thanks!

[@MetalMachineShop]

This project took me quite a long time so the finances were well spread out.

[@johnesmer5635]

Luv it ..like the way U used ply board.. Next project I'm hopping you do is a ,E, rear wheel and with suspension front and rear.. And a lock in upright position. ... thankyou... I'm

[@christopherdubour6662]

Well, thank you KZbin for the suggestion! You sir, are my hero. I've been wanting to build a tilting reverse trike for some time and haven''t embarked down that path. I'm glad to see such attention to detail and plan to view your progress thus far.

[@MetalMachineShop]

Hi, I hope you find something of interest in my videos 😀

[@JulianMakes]

I love your attention to the details, youve done such a great job

[@MetalMachineShop]

I'm glad you like it

[@zaphnath74]

nice tilting and steering mechanism!!

[@davidsnyder2000]

Already liked and subscribed. I love the geometry that’s engineered into this bike. Find it super fascinating 🙂 Really nice video and build. Liking it a lot👍 Thank you for all the time you spend filming and editing these videos 🙂 And of course the build itself.

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hello, A very nice update...I have a single brake lever for a polo bike that both front a rear brakes fit to... A clear covering on the metal parts like the Brompton RAW bikes will be rather cool... I can tell you're a real bike rider as the video is full of comments regarding lightness, which is the goal of us all... Keep up the good work and I'll see you on the next one... Take care. Paul,,

[@badrinair]

what a wonderful project that that you are sharing . True engineer. I was looking at all your video series to draw inspiration for a DIY cargo bike. I don't need the level of precession you have there.I jus want our load bearing ability . Thank you once again .

[@MetalMachineShop]

Go for it!

[@AuroraCypher]

Glad I found this channel, been wanting to build a trike for sometime now.

[@dave_ecclectic]

You can easily round off the edges of the plywood by attaching rounded strips to the edge rather than sanding the plywood itself. Sanding is more labor intensive while routing the edge of a board and then ripping it off is much simpler and quicker. Just a thought.

[@arjojotadape]

i am very impressed..thanks for sharing

[@catsanddo]

excellent workmanship

[@cryptohouse1676]

Wow, that is some skills you have there! I am dreaming of building my own velomobile too, but I don't have the tools or skills yet to do it. I was thinking of copying the BioHybrid and making one for myself.

[@VelEire_]

Loving this series! Just discovered it yesterday I’m in the process of a similar idea but for a handbike! Might try video it’s progress too

[@MetalMachineShop]

Thanks! Looking forward to seeing it!

[@subject2change313]

Thank you very much for the detailed descriptions in your video. I found your design very helpful in comparison to what I'm trying to work at myself although I wonder if your ground clearance is not quite enough. I'm sure you have thought of this and possibly measured all of your clearances. Could you provide what ground clearance measurements you came up with please?

[@MetalMachineShop]

Hi, you are right, the ground clearance is not enough. It's about 100mm. The low centre of gravity also makes it hard to balance. I'd recommend going 100mm higher at least.

[@daysetx]

Beautiful trike design

[@HIDPCM]

wonderful progress!

[@antoniskaloterakis7996]

hello again , nice update , nice seeing you getting closer I have made some observations that I would like to write 1)(the most irrelevant ) at 1:28 are you locking the cariage for more stifness on the lathe? 2)at 6:00 a) I think you could find something that fits better , b) if you have a 4 jaw indipendant chuck you could hold it , turn the cap of an make a thread to tide it better c) maybe you could laser or waterjet cut another plate that holds the rotation of the drum brake . 3) 9:45 (I am carpender and the bike I am making is out of ash wood ) I believe just epoxy isnt going to make it , I would pass through at least two dowels if there is enough (preferably not the standar beech dowels that they massivly sell , oak or even aluminium would be good) . 4) At 10:10 it seams to me it will break too , You would have much better chances if both sides were one piece and it would be half knotched to the frame , even better instead of plywood this part could be aluminium .I think you have a mill and you can easily make it 5) there are double brake levers and that could be avoided , I can send you a link if you want . 6) I believe at this stage you shouldnt cosmetic changes like sanding painting etc , If you see its fully working you can do it afterwards . I dont want you to think that I judging on all of those , I am trying to be an extra set of eyes that might be of some help

[@MetalMachineShop]

Hi there, thanks for the comments! To answer your questions: 1. Yes! That's the carriage lock. 2. I definitely need to do one of these things. I do have a four-jaw chuck. 3. Agreed. I need to pin them through with something. 4. I am going to reinforce these pieces with something. They won't stay stuck on as they are! 5. Yes please! 6. Agreed. I don't want to put too much effort into the finishing if the whole thing is going to be a failure, however, part of the point of this project is just making something for the fun of it! Cheers! MMS.

[@antoniskaloterakis7996]

@@MetalMachineShop thats the best price i found i ve seen on amazon-ebay at 45ish euro or something the shipping is a bit stinky but if you need more than one its better , and choose some kind of premium shipping otherwise it will take a month + . But you can google around to see if you can find it closer to you in a compairable price if you take shipping into account . The same product is sold from several sellers a photo search might leed you somewhere . I havent tested it yet cause i need some more tooling to finish mine but it seems really decent and of good quality if you want any photos or dimensions I can sent it you somewhere

[@antoniskaloterakis7996]

@@MetalMachineShop i have put the link here twice and it gets erased If search on this keyword you will there , its a shop from holland Double brake lever for both brakes on one handlebar

[@MetalMachineShop]

@@antoniskaloterakis7996 thanks, I've found the levers you mean. Good call. I'll probably stick with the current method for the prototype as I've already got an old lever I can use, but I will definitely look at the 'two in one' lever for any follow on version.

[@derekpirie9188]

@@MetalMachineShop BMX Bicycles use a cable splitter for the rear brake, as the handlebars fully rotate. This way you could still retain the current brake lever.

[@robertroigsantamaria]

The quick release is to remove the wheel easy... .. since your wheel is bolted in... you don't need the quick release... you should use a regular threaded rod.... axle... or whatever So nice... .. ... Can¡t wait to see how it holds up... sideways....

[@startcherif]

very nice video,i love your work

[@MetalMachineShop]

Thank you, my friend!

[@maxbar4166]

Your work is wonderful!

[@MetalMachineShop]

Thanks!

[@jamesgoodwin2450]

Can’t wait to see it on the road

[@marksadventures3889]

Where the tilts are to stop them going further than required - I thought a wedge with a rubberised plastic like that of skateboard wheels would afford stability under each side whilst not impeding movement. I think the cable tension will keep and fittings in place and stop them moving or wobbling unnecessarily. I am very interested to see how the wood will cope under stress and pressure. You're a brave man! I'd have used box aluminium or steel. I don't trust carbon fibre, I've seen it go on bikes, nasty. Good video as always.

[@MetalMachineShop]

I think I will fit some kind of rubbery stop each side. I think the wood will be ok, I've seen wooden bikes made from much lighter sections than I have used. Admittedly, steel or aluminium would have saved a whole lot of hassle, but like I said in one of my earlier videos, I had the wood already so it was 'free'. This is only a prototype to test the tilting mechanism, so it's not really intended to last forever. I'm not concerned about carbon fibre - as long as it's properly designed! Cheers, MMS.

[@teist111]

Вместо шаровых опор можно использовать сайленблоки от автомобилей они могут частично амортизировать возвращая конструкццию в исходное положение

[@MetalMachineShop]

I don’t think a tiny amount of scrub is a problem but the geometry does need to be carefully designed to minimise it. A small amount of positive camber on tilting may be of benefit but a limiting factor is the angle of rotation in the joints to accommodate the tilt and the camber tends to make this worse.

[@pascalmoreau2329]

Magnifique machine vous êtes un artiste doublé d'un génie respect !👍❤

[@MetalMachineShop]

Thank you!

[@brucewrandol]

Will this front end require some sort of spring/sway bar to keep torsional rigidity? I like your idea.

[@MetalMachineShop]

A bit of spring might be good but there is already quite a bit of give in it. I'm looking at experimenting with a damper on the tilt mech as it's quite twitchy.

[@DClarke1954]

Sorry to intrude, but the SA solid axles and their QR "pop-pin" axles are all hardened steel to prevent any chance of them bending as they are single-sided mounting. What steel have you used for your axle-tubes there? Did you know that you can buy 12mm Cold-Drawn seamless precision tube (12mm OD, with 3mm wall thickness for example), which would be very strong.

[@MetalMachineShop]

Hi, thanks for the comments. The axle steel is some kind of cold drawn machining grade mild steel, I don't know the exact grade. I'll look out for the tube you mentioned. From a metallurgical perspective, toughness is better than hardness. Bending is not as bad as snapping!

[@simplelife3466]

what is the cost for these parts ? and where can the brakes be bought? I have yet to find them here in the USA. Should I move forward with a veto build like this would you consider getting the parts and shipping them to me? I would of course pay up front.

[@MetalMachineShop]

I bought the Sturmey Archer brake drums complete with wheels from ginkgo-veloteile.de , I imagine they could ship to the US. Cost was about £500 for the pair if I remember correctly. Other brake parts and components were from sjscycles.co.uk . I wouldn’t particularly want to get into shipping as this could be a legal and tax minefield, but in any case should be unnecessary once you have found the right suppliers.

[@IvanRx76]

Sr, Do you sell plans? Or do you provide advisory for diy enthusiasts?

[@MetalMachineShop]

Hi, I don’t have any plans published as the trike is not sufficiently tested, but I am more than happy to try to answer any questions.

[@thechumpsbeendumped.7797]

What are the benefits of a drum brake over a disk brake? Will there be any flex in the arms to give some suspension in the final iteration?

[@arnspyarchi6040]

I've been asking myself the same question Surely having a little flex on the arms might provide suspension, but I wonder if it works in practice, and if it doesn't mess up with anything like the ackerman geometry or else

[@JohnR31415]

Drums are completely impervious to weather, and have ample stopping power. They also need rather less fettling in use, they are a lot more forgiving than discs

[@thechumpsbeendumped.7797]

@@arnspyarchi6040 I saw a design recently that didn’t have suspension and he was considering making the outriggers from water-jet cut titanium to give flex like a lateral leaf spring.

[@thechumpsbeendumped.7797]

@@JohnR31415 Thanks. I don’t have experience with either. All my bikes have been rim braked.

[@MetalMachineShop]

For this project, the drums are easier to install as they are self-contained units. The backplate just needs to be bolted in place, rather than fiddle with complicated brake calliper mounts. Also more aero, lower maintenance.

[@MrRobertFarr]

You need more ground clearance? Hub brakes are common these days and might be cheaper than drum brakes that must be rare.

[@MetalMachineShop]

Yes it does need more ground clearance!

[@MrRobertFarr]

@@MetalMachineShop Did you ever try a Bicycle Moto Cross bike? The Raleigh Burner, is a great example. I was thinking that Trikes might be, able to be powered more easily. With the reverse trike. Potentially more stable. Than a trike. Although the problem is, it's relying on using the centre of the road. For that third wheel. Which travels, in the centre of the road, like a horse might. It's pretty interesting to learn about power transmission in modern vehicles. Also. The problem of maintaining grip, with a changing wheel base. Particularly while braking. It's pretty interesting how a motorcycle will compress during braking. Producing a shorter wheel base. Plus, adding suspension is a real challenge. And, the challenge of going around corners. Where, if there's two wheels side by side the wheel on the inside of the curve is going to rotate less, than the wheel on the outside of the curve. And, the challenges to power supply that creates. I watched a documentary on the the split rear differential. But can't say, I can actually get my head around it. Or work out if it actually works or not. And, was getting interested in Front Wheel Drive. Where, I might look at that again. I have personal challenges here at the moment. With declining stamina. High housing costs and low wages.

[@darkN3R075]

I am designing a cargo bike using a tilting mechanism but am concerned with the steering angle. How much steering angle did you achieve? I.e. the Johansson Oscar s/m uses a similar setup but arranges the rod end bearings turned by 90 degrees. This means a worse load direction for the actual bearing part but more steering which is desirable for my Design. The chike cargo bike uses Spurstangenköpfe instead ( dont know the english phrase) but I a have trouble finding sources for mechanical data / data sheets from i.e. SKF.

[@MetalMachineShop]

Hello! I achieved a steering angle of about 24 degrees each way. I would say that is more than enough once in motion. A high steering angle is only an advantage for very slow speed manoeuvring. I should have put all rod ends in the vertical position as this gives I constrained tilt, but limits steering angle. For some reason, I put one of them horizontal, which limits the tilt too much. For me, at least 30 degrees tilt is desirable. This does, of course, depend on the objectives of your design.

[@darkN3R075]

@@MetalMachineShop I would be happy doing it the other way around for my cargobike as I think the relatively Limited steering angle together with the long wheel base will result in an impractical turning radius. But as I mentioned initially that limits the load bearing capabilities of the rod end bearings by unfavourable loading. I am glad this works for you anyway! Looking forward to see more of your projects progress and wish you great success.

[@nraynaud]

at 6:15 about the loose fitting cable brake stoppers, maybe you can just hammer the corner of the black plate to close the slot a bit?

[@MetalMachineShop]

That's not a bad idea!

[@tomdupre]

@@MetalMachineShop And if that doesn't work, try using a bigger hammer.

[@MetalMachineShop]

@@tomdupre thank you for your suggestion!

[@HIDPCM]

How do you decided how wide apart are the two front wheels? And could them be much closer together? Being a leaning vehicle it is posible to have the two wheels separated around 70cms from each other?

[@MetalMachineShop]

The wheel spacing was driven mainly by the need to provide clearance between the velomobile’s body and the wheels. The clearance gets taken up by both the tilting and steering. Wheels could be closer if there was no fairing or if steering angle is reduced. Also the spacing gives some stability with the tilt mechanism locked when stationary or at very slow speeds.

[@MetalMachineShop]

The current separation is about 75cm so 70cm or less would be possible.

[@HIDPCM]

@@MetalMachineShop Thank you for your answers!

[@dorusorian1748]

Hola,me gusta mucho este projecto.Es muy util para mi mujer que no puede andar mucho de pies.Le pido de corazon si me puede ayudar para construir este projeto.Thanks .

[@ABwouldsay]

Hi. I was trying to figure out, what caster angle are you using? and is there a steering axis inclination too?

[@MetalMachineShop]

Hi, the caster is about 73 degrees and trail 43mm I think and based on typical values for a normal bike. The steering axis is inclined inwards by about ten degrees.

[@ABwouldsay]

@@MetalMachineShop thanks for the answer. I’ve been trying to figure how you converted the example 5 in 4th video vertical swivels, with the L shaped square pipe you used.. its hard to imagine how those inverted L shapes effectively give the same caster as the straight (and slanted backwards) blue cylindrical pipes you used in example 5 CAD design.

[@MetalMachineShop]

@@ABwouldsay the shape of the L shaped things is not important, the only important details are the positions of the upper and lower pivots in relation to each other as that defines the angle of the steering axis. I only made them L shaped for convenience so that the wheel axles can fit directly without the need for an additional bracket. Needless to say, the position of the wheel axle relative to the pivots is also important. The steering arms (L shaped things) can be any shape you like as long as they link up to the correctly- positioned pivots.

[@JohnR31415]

Most velomobiles just bolt the front wheels on, there is no need to QR the wheels for maintenance after all...

[@kwenim1]

Hi I’m building a trike myself please can you tell me where you buy the wheels and brakes from thanks

[@MetalMachineShop]

Hi, the front wheels came from Ginkgo-Veloteile, complete with brake drums. Brake pads and backing plates etc were from sjscycles.co.uk

[@wijayacanel4062]

Luarbiasa sangat menarik kreatif yang luarbiasa👍

[@corresandberg]

Awesome build - where did you get those tires from?

[@MetalMachineShop]

Thanks! They are Schwalbe tyres from sjscycles.co.uk. 20in tyres not too easy to get in the UK, but they normally have a small range.

[@2ncielkrommalzeme210]

did you find out how much its weigh? ithink if you used metal weight of the trike is same or so and so ?

[@MetalMachineShop]

I haven't weighed it yet but I will be surprised if the total weiggt is less than 20kg!! The wood frame is about 10kg. A properly designed steel frame could be a lot lighter.

[@The_Cotswold_Engineer]

Following with interest as I'm building my own velomobile too. How are the 12mm axles retained in your uprights? Just by the QR holding the wheels on? Fascinated to see your body design when you get to that!

[@MetalMachineShop]

Hi, it's just the QRs holding the wheels on. I've seen other well-known trike makes use this method so I have no concerns about it. There is not a lot of stress in the QRs - in fact a tilting design will put less tensile stress into the QRs than a trike as the lateral loads are a lot less.

[@The_Cotswold_Engineer]

@@MetalMachineShop that's what I thought too, but as I was watching I couldn't see how they were held in till you put in the QR's in. Yes tensile loading will be much less. I've often wondered about a tilt mechanism myself and have seen the Rocket designed by a chap in the States which seems like a good design but is a delta rather than a tadpole.

[@balanrouge1227]

Fantastic view!! fantastic video, quick question, will the quick release bars bend easily with the force of the tilt and turn? what wheel hubs are you using? :)

[@MetalMachineShop]

Hi, the QR bars don’t take any bending forces or much tension, all they do is hold the bits together, so they should be fine. The hubs are Sturmey Archer 70mm drums.

[@balanrouge1227]

@@MetalMachineShop hey thanks for taking the time to write back. After setting off on a cycle ride through Europe, my trailer was attached to the specially adapted QR bars, after about a month of dragging the trailer about the QR bars bent causing the rear wheel to stop turning. When I saw your video, I was thinking that maybe the QR bars would gradually bend when the wheel was in a tilt turn situation. Would love to see an update in a few months of riding. Thanks for the hub info, I am starting to dream of a trike lol

[@MetalMachineShop]

@@balanrouge1227 thanks for the feedback, I will definitely keep an eye on the QR skewers but I don’t think it will be a problem with this design. However, something to watch.

[@thecorbies]

Hi, and thanks for this update. I've been following this from the beginning - mostly because I've got something similar in mind to make for one of my sons. It's not high on the priority list atm, but sometime soon(ish). Anyway, a couple of questions if I may: 1) Curious to know why you've designed front/back 'stagger' into the upper and lower wishbones; the top one being slightly further back. Is that for aero purposes? i.e. to allow the upper WB mount to be contained with an aero body? 2) Can't remember if you've said that the plywood itself will be faired into an aero profile, or whether the WB's will have actual fairings. 3) Why drum brakes rather than disc? Regards Mark in the UK

[@MetalMachineShop]

Hi, to answer your questions: 1. The stagger is due to the rake necessary to give the steering caster - the line between the upper and lower steering pivots is angled back by 73 degrees. It is also angled inwards so that the line between them intersects more or less at the tyre's centreline on the ground. 2. Yes, I plan to round off the plywood just to remove the sharp edges. I won't go for a full aerofoil as I doubt the time spent would justify the returns. The post-prototype version will have aerofoil sections made of carbon fibre mouldings. That's the plan anyway. 3. Drums are self-contained units and avoid the need for fiddly brake calliper mounts. Cheers! MMS

[@pashakdescilly7517]

@@MetalMachineShop And also, the use of Sturmey Archer drum brakes has Mike Burrows' seal of approval - he uses them on many of his designs.

[@matt.maker.videos7737]

Where can I find those front wheels?

[@MetalMachineShop]

I got them from ginkgoveloteile in Germany.

[@J_Systems]

wooooooow is a marvelous proyect, do you have som plans or drawins of this???? I like to do someting similar...

[@MetalMachineShop]

Thanks! No plans available yet, I need to make sure it’s practical and safe first!

[@HIDPCM]

The velomobile is getting better on every video!. Excellent job! I have been revisiting some of your videos and I saw at first you wanted to use cables instead of carbon tubes for direction, why did you change it? and Another question which CAD do you use?

[@MetalMachineShop]

Thanks! The reason I changed from cables to rods is because the handlebars are going to be separated into individually-mounted left- and right-hand bars and cables wouldn't have worked without separate return runs and pulleys. I also had a comment warning about resonance with cable steering although I'm sure it could be tuned out (it's good enough for aeroplanes after all). I've just ordered the tube for the handlebars, so hopefully making these soon. The CAD programme is Onshape.

[@kanpurunplugged9970]

Can you make it a reverse trike with boat like steering system i have plans for suggestion it will be unique

[@MetalMachineShop]

Do you mean with the rear wheel steering? I think that would be unstable.

[@DClarke1954]

Nice build, well thought out and beautifully executed. I have a question/concern on the M6 rod-ends. When I have used them/tried to use them in the past I found them to be under-size/strength and the threaded portion just bent at its earliest opportunity. It looks like you have used Solidworks (or similar) for your design details, what does "stress-analysis say? Similarly, the articulation spacers that reduce the fastening to M5, is this enough "meat" for the application? I had a "fail" on my tadpole recumbent which cost me a shoulder tendon and 6-months of pain/post-op recovery so I would not want to see anyone come to grief the way I did.

[@MetalMachineShop]

Hi, thanks for your comments, it’s appreciated. The rod ends at the outer end of the upper arms take the weight of the front end. These have M10 threads, and they are loaded in bending. I thought they were ‘about right’ but given your concerns I will do some proper stress calcs on them (or check the spec sheet). Then 8mm bolt at the outer end is supported at both ends so is loaded mostly in shear rather than bending; even so, I will do the calcs. The steering tie rods use M8 rod ends. These are loaded in pure tension/compression and the stresses are not high. The 5mm bolts are again supported at both ends and should be Ok subject to stress calcs. The steering push/pull rods use M6 rod ends and again don’t take much load. Anyway, I’ll do the calcs to check. Thanks again, MMS.

[@magnifiquenkurunziza590]

If you could and would sell you finished recumbent velomobile, how much would you sell it for?

[@MetalMachineShop]

I’ve no plans to sell what is a development prototype but if someone made me an offer I couldn’t refuse, then who knows😁

[@micart671]

G'day, I love your work & your choice of machine to build. Just wondering... why you choose to work with steel as opposed to aluminium?

[@MetalMachineShop]

Hi, it’s mainly because I’ve never welded aluminium and I’m not sure if my welder will do it. I’ve been meaning to try.

[@micart671]

Thanks for your quick response. Funny thing is, I have an AC/DC Tig Mig 4in1 set-up and still have not had the nerve to try aluminium. It seems to be one of those dark arts, but as they say 'You never know until you give it a go". Keep up the good work!@@MetalMachineShop

[@titisimamora4755]

Side car tilting build

[@paulpaulsen7309]

... well, I'm impressed ... !

[@MetalMachineShop]

Thanks!

[@j.renders4406]

Hi Sir. I watched them all your video's, some are long and some are tedious learning, but now I'm waiting for number 13 since June . When will it come ??? it'a almost september and your trike almost runs....

[@MetalMachineShop]

Thanks - you’re in luck, no. 13 uploaded earlier today!

[@jonathanroldan4896]

the front axles are weak. will have to fortify it.

[@charliethewanderer6872]

Are the disc brakes weights more than drum breaks ? LOL

[@MetalMachineShop]

Discs lighter but there's not as much difference in weight as you might think between the two.

[@patrickmckowen2999]

looking good

[@nikolaosdamianidis5604]

Well done keep going

[@MetalMachineShop]

Thanks!

[@SunilSundar]

So the tilting is not actively controlled? how do you get it to stand upright when stationary?

[@MetalMachineShop]

No it's not actively controlled, it balances in the same way as a bike. When stationary, you either put your foot down or need some kind of tilt-lock mechanism.

[@marvinschwartz4144]

I see how you drive the steering, but how is the tilting driven? Is it just by shifting your body weight by leaning or is there some mechanism?

[@MetalMachineShop]

The tilting mechanism is completely passive and it’s not driven in any way. The balance is achieved in exactly the same way as a bicycle by steering inputs and body weight shifting. That’s the theory anyway.

[@marvinschwartz4144]

@@MetalMachineShop Never thought of a passive tilt system. The more I think about it now the more I like it. Certainly simplifies construction, which probably means it has a hope in hell of working reliably. Cheers look forward to see how well it works.

[@MetalMachineShop]

@@marvinschwartz4144 All those three-wheeled mopeds have a passive tilt system as far as I am aware.

[@fonwoolridge]

Brilliant!

[@charliethewanderer6872]

Enjoy viewing you video again. Your are a perfectionist and provide great assembly details. Have you order your rear wheel ? LOL

[@MetalMachineShop]

I’ve ordered some bits for the wheels - rim and hub so far. I’m going to have a go at building it myself!

[@charliethewanderer6872]

@@MetalMachineShop Please, I like to see a video on that also.

[@MetalMachineShop]

@@charliethewanderer6872 I am planning one but it might not be pretty if it doesn't go well, I haven't made a bike wheel before!

[@charliethewanderer6872]

@@MetalMachineShop I do understand. It takes a great deal of research, planning, filming, and editing also.... Thanks again for sharing.

[@MrRobertFarr]

Rubber gloves?

[@3.14enerji]

You ... Super.... mekanik...İ m Türkiye...

[@sirnubenegra]

Do i need to add black mold for it to work?

[@MetalMachineShop]

No, it seems to add itself!

[@soullessred5785]

I love watching the progress of this project, especially the trial and error deciding how the tilting mechanism would work. Now I just need to figure out how to adapt this to a full blown motorcycle. And a full fairing around it.

[@MetalMachineShop]

There are a few tilting motorcycle trikes around - no doubt you can find them on KZbin. The fairing is slightly more challenging - you either need a wide fairing that fully encloses the wheels or a narrower fairing and a way of passing the tilting arms through it. Both have their problems (and solutions!)

[@soullessred5785]

@@MetalMachineShop ill have to do some more digging then. My assumption was to do something almost like a car wheel well, with the wheels outside of the body, but at least partially faired when straight. Thanks for the info!

[@MetalMachineShop]

@@soullessred5785 The greater the wheel separation, the greater the amount of clearance you would need in the wheel arches - and more ground clearance under the extremities of the body. A lot of the trike motorcycles I have looked at seem to have excessive wheel separation. This is not necessary for a tilting trike as wheel separation contributes nothing to stability (the tilting trike balances in the same way as a normal bike after all). I would look to trike scooters for inspiration.

[@razacksossohou3943]

Hi , how are you ? Where are you from ?

[@alexjordan6063]

Where are the shok absorbers ?

[@MetalMachineShop]

There are non, but the front swing arms are quite springy so give a reasonably comfortable ride.

[@raymondo162]

i don't get why the horizontal top suspension blade is sooo high. ditto the suspension uprights at the wheel end are massively too tall. save weight and aero-drag by downsizing the whole front suspension system

[@MetalMachineShop]

The reason it’s designed like it is is because the centre of the pivot on the upper arm coincides with where the centreline of the body would be on the fully-enclosed velomobile. At that point the cross-section of the body would be circular, which means that the upper arms can pass through the body without undue interference. You’re quite right though, if the aiming point was a ‘naked’ recumbent then the upper arm could be much lower and the uprights could be quite a bit shorter.

[@abelmachado7126]

Muito bom parabéns

[@MetalMachineShop]

Thanks! You're helping me learn Portuguese.

[@5phutsangtao-iQ]

i don't understand what you are doing

[@MetalMachineShop]

That makes two of us!

[@firstnamelastname9013]

👏👏👍👍

[@sulokale7696]

Golay gelsin dil olarak Türkiye 🇹🇷 olsun selamlar

[@sulokale7696]

Türkçe de dil çevirimi yayını altyazı olsun rica ederim güzel video anlatım dil problem??

[@janeblogs324]

"Metal machine shop". Is made from wood...

[@dronerdroner783]

Fantasi....... 😀🥰

[@Pushyhog]

im still gonna fill out a hurt feelings report because u left us. At least tell us something

[@MetalMachineShop]

@@Pushyhog sorry I’ve had to put the project on a bit of a pause due to other things and work getting in the way. I have been working on the design for a new version which I think will be more practical and user-friendly, so hope to get started on this as time allows. I’m thinking it will be half way between a faired velomobile and unfaired trike. So with a partial fairing/rain cover. I’ve got all the bits from the prototype so hoping to put them to good use soon. If I could retire from work I’d have time for all the stuff I want to do!

[@MrBazsi888]

too wide for bike lanes.

[@MetalMachineShop]

It’s about 750mm wide, roughly the same width as a mountain biker’s elbows. Not as wide as it looks in the footage. Narrower would be better though, admittedly.

[@MrBazsi888]

@@MetalMachineShop 750mm wide, okey but with the handlebar leaning towards both directions ? maybe more than 1.3meter ? despite that, first class project! much respect brother.

[@YaR0MyR]

When carpenter does a mechanics... 🤦‍♂️ You better instal metal hinges before those plywood mock-ups shatter snaps off 🙃

[@MetalMachineShop]

Hopefully the plywood brackets will be strong enough! I'll test them before riding.

[@YaR0MyR]

@@MetalMachineShop No worth for risk. Those obviously are the concentration of forces variable momentum and friction points, thus even if will survive test ride, will suffer big loads and wear out fast. It would be clever to reinforce them at least with aluminum corners and conect both sides through plywood frame into sandwich of appropriate area on the frame for load dispersion. Not big thing to add while great insurance at the right place.

[@YaR0MyR]

@@MetalMachineShop Hope is the worst partner in engineering (-;

[@MetalMachineShop]

@@YaR0MyR You got me! I quite agree, very poor choice of words on my part. Knowing is better than hoping!

[@antoniskaloterakis7996]

I believe you are unfair to the carpenters , not all off them are made equal plus i know machinists that in all of their lives just measure with the caliper and replicate things . I agree they will break at some point and should be reinforced wisely but dont underestimate wood also if the friction points are designed smart enough to pass the loads to the wood in a large surface area it can last forever .

[@sivodesilva9866]

I think I go for the aliexpress option