MGB performance engine build pt 1, the crank goes in

After getting my MGB 5-main engine back from the machine shop for my ‘74 MGBGT Autocrosser, there was a delay while waiting for the last bits to be able to start final assembly.
We finally have those bits, and the engine is going together. In this video I will be putting the crankshaft in and setting up the end float so that we have a nice freely rotating engine and tell a cautionary tale of assumptions and lack of knowledge that cost a previous customer an engine. This is the first of 4 videos on assembling the short block, look for the rest of the videos coming up once a week.
This engine is a ‘74 5-main B series
Bored .060
Compression approximately 9.7:1
Wedged crankshaft
Balance rotating assembly
Maxspeeding 4340 H beam rods
King tri-metal main and rod bearings
APT VP12bk cam with CF-04 lifters
APT offset rocker bushings
Crane tubular chrome moly push rods
Lightened flywheel (15 1/2 lbs) for Datsun 5-speed conversion
Pro Sport sfi balancer
Fully baffled oil pan with trap doors and windage tray ( fabricated by me)
Ported ‘74 cyl head
Custom LCB header ( built by me)
Custom exhaust with hand made Flowmaster style muffler ( built by me)
Custom Maniflow style intake built for use with HIF-4 carbs ( built by me) ( final carbs will likely be a hybrid mix of HIF-4 bodies and HS-4 pistons and dash pots)
Re-curved 25d distributor by Advanced Distributors
MSD 6 AL ignition box with adjustable rev limiter

[@jimbyrne9071]

Your videos are just the best on youtube. Im still waiting on my engine gotta admit im getting restless.

[@mgbgtguy]

Thank you, I appreciate that 😁

[@americanpatriot2422]

Always an outstanding video and presentation.

[@mgbgtguy]

Thanks again!

[@bradthurlow5503]

You are building the same recipe as I built for my autocross MGB motor. I’m looking forward to your plan for distributor timing and carbs. Since the engine ends up so far from stock, I found the normal dizzy timing would not work.

[@mgbgtguy]

My dizzy was recurved by Advance Distributors for the last iteration of the engine, which was pretty close to what it is this time.

[@bradthurlow5503]

@@mgbgtguy He did mine as well. But I made a larger change when I rebuilt the engine. I think it was the move to the VP12 that gave me the trouble. Low end timing was always in conflict with top end timing. I had to go to a 123 and recurve completely.

[@rscruiser3533]

Not sure if I missed something ------- you were torquing down the one of the main caps ------ and going from the standard torque of 70 ft, lb. to 110 ft. lb. ------ why the increase? ------ Thank You sharing how you will be building of your engine ------- Rodney

[@mgbgtguy]

I’m using ARP main bolts instead of stock ones. ARP says to torque them to 110 ft lbs instead of the factory torque specs.

[@kenmoffat617]

Excellent video. If I ask a question, could you clarify what a 'wedge crank' is please? Looking forward to the next part.

[@mgbgtguy]

The counter weights on the crank are no longer cut with the sides parallel with each other they now have a wedge shape to them ( reduces rotating mass) if you haven’t seen the video from Nov. where I do the initial dry assembly of the engine, you can get a decent look at the crank in that video. It’s called “ Finally! Starting mg MGB performance engine build”

[@kenmoffat617]

Thanks for taking the time to clarify.

[@mgbgtguy]

Your welcome

[@derrick7184]

What year is that engine block? My 1960 metropolitan has three main caps. That one has five. Seems like its far superior engine block.

[@mgbgtguy]

My block is a 1974. They redesigned it to a 5-main in late ‘64 for the ‘65 model year

[@bladerunner6282]

cleaning of rebuilt engines prior to re-assembly has become an obsession as of late. maybe its necessary for a 600HP modern engine, i wouldn't know, but complete waste of time IMO on 60's and earlier engines. as mentioned the amount of METALLIC (no less!) grit generated from the friction on cylinder walls, rings, bearings, cam shaft, and valve train COMPLETELY overwhelms any advantages to be had by hand cleaning to the degree often recommended by experts. use regular oil to pre-lube all parts (they'll be inundated with it within seconds of initial start anyway) and wipe down with kerosene and spray bottle. not a bad idea to check all all fluid passages though. most importantly avoid anything near redline for several hundred miles. and change oil frequently for first 1000. and remember everybody is just guessing where longevity and initial cleaning is concerned. very few people do or even CAN live long enough to gather valid information as to the effectiveness of their efforts as regards pre-cleaning to be convincing, or even more unlikely, definitive,

[@benandrews5750]

Can you explain the deck height and pistons you are using to get to the compression you mentioned? My buddy is doing a similar build and mentioned zero deck height. I told him to take some off the head but we are curious what you ended up with head CC and deck height

[@mgbgtguy]

On my build the pistons are .010 down in the bore with the standard 6cc dish and the combustion chambers are 38-38 1/2 cc.

[@octagongarage3504]

What size pipe tap and plug did you use for the oil galley

[@mgbgtguy]

1/4” pipe tap and 1/4” hex socket pipe plugs

[@octagongarage3504]

@@mgbgtguy thanks

[@mgbgtguy]

@@octagongarage3504 you’re welcome

[@hrxy1]

what a boring fellow