MGB Restoration 7 months into a 3 month project part 3

In this video series we are showing the previous repair work performed by other shops in this cars past. These cars of a uni-body construction, meaning that the frame is integrated into the shell or body structure of the car. Properly repairing the sheet metal of an automobile is critical for a structurally sound automobile.

[@rorykavanagh2603]

I’m astounded that you keep this video up, thinking that it makes you look knowledgable. The holes in the ‘black panel’ are drain holes and obviously not panels to help you line up the wing/fender. The holes you poke the screwdriver into are the holes that line up the wing/fender. My guess is that the wing/fender doesn’t have any holes and if so it’s because it’s an aftermarket part, but come on guys!!

[@gerarddangelo280]

I'm not sure how long ago this video was made, and how much experience or knowledge you gentlemen have with the design and structure of the MGB's Sills. But I would highly recommend that you study it's structure before you say anything more. Just FYI the bottom "Black Thing" is referred to as a castle rail, and you welded up it's drain holes..........So I'll leave it at that......Good luck..........................

[@davidhamlin5327]

It is out of my life...

[@JimiHendrix998]

It was notced with a combination of sadness and amusement.

[@chriskemp6941]

What exactly did you weld that castle rail (the 'black thing' as you describe it) to, because it looks like the floor pan to me? You have spent 3 videos saying what a bodge job has been done by everyone else and then you weld up the drainage holes for some reason! Please do some research before you start, I pity the poor customer who paid you for this.

[@mgbgtguy]

As someone who has a shop restoring these things I can say these guys obviously have never done an MGB before, and are quite clueless as to how these are put together. If they were, he would be pointing out a lot more issues than he has, and would have tackled the repairs a bit differently. That being said, the kinds of issues they are finding is not at all unusual and are usually done by shops that also have no clue (and just don't really care about much more that the profit on the job)

[@bmax403]

Thanks for posting this informative video series, and the horrors that you've pointed our and displayed. You should have placed an "R" rated guide for this video, for the violence upon this poor MGB is criminal. The only good is that the owner is still trying to salvage this vehicle, and has come to you, someone who cares about craftsmanship and integrity. The ignorance of the importance of the beam structure of the 5 pieces of the side sills, panels and rails makes me want to scream, and to turn away from the video, it is so painful. I know I'm writing almost two years after your work, and I haven't yet had the courage to leap to the end of your work videos. Knowledge of the original design of the unibody construction of the MGB would have been valuable for all, and there are numerous resources to learn the combination of components to form the Unibody.

[@pauloobras2379]

Cheguei prestigiando seu canal aguardando retorno

[@larryharris937]

What? Mr. D'Angelo points out the "black thing" was improperly repaired and then the author of this video, showing how bad the previous workmanship was, says "it's out of my life"?

[@eddiebarrera5884]

Are you ok???

[@liten48]

omg i cant watch anymore of this

[@davidhamlin5327]

Yup it has been an absolute nightmare. Many sleepless night cussing and swearing.

[@davidhamlin5327]

Dammit, I had to go back and watch the video myself, thanks for drudging up old memories...lol

[@awalk5177]

This is all a bad approach to an MGB restoration. All body panels are available to be replaced properly , not botched. You need to know what you are doing.

[@budwhite3570]

God sakes, I had no idea sheetmetal over sheetmetal was so prevalent, or even possible! I've owned a lincoln sp100 mig welder for as long as I can remember,...errrrr, well, like well over twenty years, maybe twenty five years,....back then I bought a couple late 70's firebirds with the typical rust in the corners of the lower doors, and some other holes in quarter panels, ....ya know, I cut out the sheetmetal that was damaged and welded in new pieces, but it gets worse, I kept on doing little beads till I had welds all around, I mean, then I treated the metals inside and out again with protective paint, least bondo possible........years later I see the cars I sold off, they eventually were over hot rodded to death,....my work is still solid, even one had a bash in and the metal bent, didn't break,...ha, and I am no professional,....but I could have been I suppose. Now, a friend has a 78 datsun pickup, very straight, a couple rust holes,....for fun, I should make "that right", though he will drive that truck to death once we do the engine swap, but errr, maybe if I do some good work, he will have it repainted, or such. I just had no idea such "overpanelling" has been being done,....likely what you said, all about "flip that auto" for big profits for someone who has it in their head they need a vintage car for going on local town vintage car parades, and "getting them chicks"......now that they are as old as the hills......ya know, I have worked in automotive repair, and customer expectations are as bad in that industry as likely car body and fender repair, ....I was a pro mechanic, with at one time eight ASE certifications!,....I seen other peoples shoddy work, where they made the dollars, shoved something out the door, and then it ends up under my wrenches with the owner "what do you mean its gonna cost that much money to correct this?" That stuff ended my career in auto repair, I kept getting jobs at lower end shops that customers would bring in bad work from somewhere else hoping to get it fixed a second time but had far fewer dollars they could spend. I think the fix for auto repair, if I owned a shop, would be "full service digital video of the problems encountered", so folks don't accuse of trying to sell uneeded work.

[@davidhamlin5327]

I have been encountering similar issues with customers. I love what I do as a profession but I am finding it difficult to make a living. I picked this 1963 up in another business they did a lot of this wonderful work you see. This car had so many problems that I have made a rules to document all work with pictures and videos. For this MGB 51 giga bites of documentation to cover my ass.

[@budwhite3570]

Ya know, ya got a dream job, I was always interested in cars, especially vintage cars, then later I got into mechanics,...didn't really enjoy the mechanics aspect,....left it, but I bet if I had gone into auto body restoration that I'd still be doing it, and sleeping over in the shop and not coming home many times, especially if I was restoring vintage cars or such.

[@broken1965]

why not get it in epoxy primer right after blasting rust has started everywhere. bedliner for chassis no way traps moisture

[@davidhamlin5327]

+Jon A Good question Jon, why not use epoxy. Epoxy is a terrific product, I have used it many time in the past with good results. Epoxy will last about 500 hours in a salt spray test, and the moisture cure urethane primer we used on the bottom of the car (under the monster liner) has been tested to 5000 hours. Glory Days Automotive Restoration is still in its infancy and I am trying to build a name for this company performing the best quality craftsmanship and using what I feel to be the best products. What I have discovered is that epoxy is a hard product to block sand. The moisture cure urethane primer is even worse to block sand. I recommend If you wanted to try it on a vehicle (read the instructions). There is a 3 to 48 hour recoat window. So I apply one coat of master coat in the evening, come in the next morning to shoot my second coat, wait three hours then shot the monster liner. It might be over kill, but I do not think customers are going to complaining about rust.

[@broken1965]

+David Hamlin no solvent entrapment

[@davidhamlin5327]

+Jon A No, we have not had any issues with solvent entrapment.

[@scavor]

Any part 4?

[@davidhamlin5327]

No, I think I only edited three videos in order to get my point across. I am not certain exactly how many hours of video footage I have for this car. But anytime I encountered something not up to my standard we shot some vidoes and pictures to cover my ass.

[@LsShadowLs]

David Hamlin, I need more videos like this. the information you provide as well as Showing us the right way is very helpful. I'm interested in doing my own projects soon and these videos stear me in a better direction. would love more videos and maybe even showing us the welding/cutting/fitting of a new pice would be awesome.

[@asicerik]

Wow, that car was a real mess. I do like the work you guys have done though.