What Happens When You Combine Warhammer 40k and Sprue Goo Mk2?

[@danielbonaci9035]

I have used your sprue goo ideas quite a few times now,one way i found to stop the bubbles and deforming once cured, Submerge the moulds flat under acetone then pour your sprue goo in the moulds while the moulds are still submerged,what this does is keeps the sprue goo in its liquid for without starting to skin or dry,then i wear gloves and i push the goo slightly into the moulds to make sure its been in every part of the mould,then i leave the moulds sit for 5 min to allow the sprue goo to become very flat on the top( just as it looks when it is untouched in the jar) then i simply take the moulds out of the acetone being careful not to tilt the moulds as the acetone is basically still in liquid form,once out i let dry ,takes slightly longer to dry but the results is smooth like a babies bottom.

[@Merlynn132]

What would happen if you put some wax paper on top and like a heavy book to force it into the mold and make a flat top?

[@higheyrie6176]

This ☝️but i use airbrush thinner.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Ive never thought of doing that and will have to give it a go, cheers 😊

[@terrain4print]

I would think, submerging the molds in acetone will dry them out and make them brittle quickly, but that is just my guess.

[@Merlynn132]

@@terrain4print Only one way to find out.

[@Fidel_L.Bousquet1970]

I love how the terrain looks, it's like a Nurgle-infested building! If you paint it in in fleshy / rotten / disgusting colours it will look fantastic

[@Salvation1326]

Nurgle and the other one I thought of would be Tyranids if you added a bit of weird looking aquarium plants and possibly some foam tentacle "sculptures" for lack of a better word. Then paint it all up bright pinks and purples

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Yup its certainly battle damaged terrain 😊

[@crapparc]

Dude. You just gave me an idea. Were you around when the Storm of Chaos hit Praag? It was warped beyond belief and its buildings sort of came alive. You could use parts like the ones shown here to simulate that.

[@Diordorus]

I had exactly the same thought

[@t.purkess9682]

I thought melted which would make sense. Looks kind of like how churches go when they’re bombed or burned down. Quite fitting

[@uriance88]

Tamiya airbrush cleaner is chemically almost identical to glue (acetone percentage is 49 vs 51) and much cheaper - so if you wanted to try a full piece out of mk2 (which for many of us in the scale model world was the original sprue goo) that would be a cheaper way to do it

[@SuperMoogyD]

Could possibly go even cheaper if you were to get some acetone and butyl acetate, (that's what it is, a 50/50'ish mix of those two) and roughly 50/50 mix it yourself. On second look, may not actually be 'cheaper' per se, but you'll practically get a lifetime supply of the stuff as far as hobby usage goes. Might be a biiit much. The Tamiya bottles are still a good price.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

I will take a look at that, cheers 😊

[@bjornthefellhanded5655]

​@MiniatureHobbyist I can confirm this, I've been using the Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner as Plastic Glue&to make Spruegoo for probably close to 2 years now

[@martypaquette5778]

Use smaller amounts of sprue goo, try applying just a thin layer in the beginning. Let that dry and then add more to bulk it up afterwards and you should retain more detail

[@itsio7188]

Agreed. A couple days ago I used my tamiya sprue goo and loaded it up. It sealed on top and hallowed out. It was all still soft. Had to keep layering or packing it. I am going to do it over again and just calmly layer it

[@nanz8981]

To reduce the price of sprue goo 2.0 you could use Tamiya airbrush cleaner instead of the extra thin cement. Apparently it's the same price but the airbrush cleaner is significantly cheaper

[@andyhoefsmit2082]

Correct. You can identify it by the pink bottlecap

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Yup I have heard that and will give it a go, cheers 😊

[@darshaddkyre]

If you mix acetone and non acetone nail polish removers 1:1, you get Tamiya extra thin cement. Much cheaper for this kind of application.

[@15gloriousminutes]

I always figured your sprue goo terrain would make a good nurgle infected city. damaged, slightly melted, occasionally weirdly smooth and wet looking :)

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Yup it is perfect for Nurgle stuff, Im just making a great Unclean one out of sprue goo 😊

[@earlgrayman982]

Empty Box Weight - Box Weight with Terrain Parts = how much your Terrain bits weigh.

[@Salvation1326]

Minus instructions booklet too don't forget

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Yup that might have been easier lol 😊

[@Mat_O.]

Here’s even easier: Put the box on the scale- zero the scale (tarre) - now u can put your sprues into the box.

[@AileronDynamics]

you are an awesome youtuber. And the blues stuff gets me really excited cause its my dream to sculpt my own models out of green stuff and such and make an army out of it.

[@MiniBasin]

I love how much fun you have with all this!

[@captaingroggut7371]

Firstly... That's a Nurgle home world project of ever I saw one! Secondly... Using this technique for stone dungeon walls (maybe 3" x3" panels) then covering any mis-moulding with moss or foliage could be a cheap way of creating some amazing cost effective full dungeons! Thirdly... Making 1" tall farm stone walls could also be a good, again using moss or foliage for covering any mid-moulding Fourthly... And certainly not least.... Thanks again for some great video work!

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Im glad you liked it and love your points 😊

[@nomellameshomerollamamehomer]

It looks perfect for some Nurgle or even fleshy Khorne decoration, and almost "free", thank you a lot!

[@terrain4print]

I had the same thought as you when I saw sprue goo 2.0. And I was equally surprised at the poor results. Thank you for doing the experimentation 🙂

If you look at the safety sheet for some good cement, and then check safety sheets for cheap solvents in some budget store for car supplies or whatever, you can probably find something as cheap as aceton which is a closer to the cement in composition and behaviour. Make sure to ensure good ventilation though!

[@samliekens5433]

If you have a cheap convection oven (not the one you prepare your food in, but a spare little table model) you can melt your sprue pieces in your sillicon moulds on relative low heat. Allready tried it with bottle caps myself!

[@braddl9442]

This is good for making textured bases. Esp if you can make some molds with various grit and or rocks in them. You can make thinks that are rocky, Muddy, Sandy, or even grass like with enough work.

[@360NoScopedMyDogEz]

yooooo! was waiting on this video, i love your positive take on the hobby

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Cheers, this is an awesome hobby 😊

[@nextgenerationmudracing399]

So much info packed into this video. Thank you for all the hard work

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Thank you so much 😊

[@HappyLittleBattleDamage]

If you wash the cavity of the tool with thin plastic glue (I use Ammo of Mig Midnight blue) before pouring you will get less surface bubbles when using press molds. Perhaps it would help here as well.

[@mattdetering7100]

That's some nice battle damage on the buildings, time saved trying to recreate a similar effect.

[@discrtidunkwn]

You can make the mk2 thicker with more sprue, this way like pva glue which paints on better. Even thicker is fine, you nudge into cracks or in this case mould and use clean glue brush to smooth out any protrusions. Looking forward to another video of more attempts!

[@CupolaDaze]

You could brush the sprue goo 2.0 in to the details. Let the layer dry. Brush in more and fill the holes. Do that two or three times getting all the detail bits. Then you can fill the rest up with the thicker goo.

[@simonjames6217]

The methyl-ethyl-ketone solvent in the Tamiya glue dries even faster and shrinks even more than the acetone. These molds might work fantastic with high quality plaster, however, which is cheap and easy to use.

[@losmiercoless]

New idea: Maybe you could try injection moulding using those bakery tools that are used for cake decoration (forgot the name)? A two-part mould would be made in the way forgeworld does their resin moulding (mount the piece on a socket ("key"), add airvents, glue the key to a plate, build lego around, make a mould and cut it open after the silicone cured, leaving the bottom whole so the mold springs back together). Maybe with a large key to account for shrinkage via evaporation and a more liquid-y mixture? Also, a tip on the lego moulds: covering the inside of the lego wall with packaging tape will reduce leaks (and therefore silicone usage) and clean-up time significantly. Hope that helps, looking forward for what you come up with next!

[@Striiiider]

you could make a screw on adapter for a caulking gun and use that to pump it into the mold. if you have access to a vacuum chamber i would recommend trying that to pull the bubbles out of the goo (or cooking pots can be repurposed for a surprisingly affordable price). great video

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Cheers, I do need to get a vacuum chamber and give it a go 😊

[@fromashestoashe]

Adding Butyl Acetate to the mix should help. It's the other ingredient in Tamiya model glue. I've done a 50/50 and it works well

[@henriksorensen82]

I don't do Sprue Goo for the same reason as you, but it is very good to use when gluing models together if you use what you call Sprue Goo Mk2, then I have used Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner which comes in 250ml and costs here in Norway about 120Nok while Tamiya Cement comes in 40ml and costs between 80-100Nok depending on whether you buy the regular one, Extra Thin or Extra Thin Quick Setting. If you prime the parts first with a thin layer of Tamiya Cement and then take a slightly liquid Sprue Goo, it fills the joints very well and you don't need to use any type of fillers like Green Styff or Plastic Putty

[@jasonmangelsen7136]

I've made a few terrain pieces out of sprue goo, including necromunda tiles and skaven gnaw holes.

[@EewZEE]

Maybe you could try using a press to push the goo in? Similar to like one people use to flattern flowers? Maybe put some grease proof paper and some Vaseline on it to stop it sticking, maybe it’s even pressure would help

[@itsio7188]

acetone and butyl acetate. About a 50/50 mix. 55/45 or 40/60 for different speeds of drying and break down. Both can be purchased separately. = Tamiya Thin Cement

[@SweetBabyBuddha]

get tamiya airbrush cleaner! it has pretty much the same chemicals as the plastic cement, BUT you get more in a big container AND for less money too. they literally do the exact same thing for gluing/melting plastic i use it to refill my old tamiya plastic cement bottles. the plastic cement does come with a great little brush attached to the lid and i like the glass container, but you only need one and you can refill it pretty much forever haha. i have one tamiya plastic cement bottle for the usual gluing, and one filled with sprue goo to fill in gaps/glue plastic sometimes.

[@YanniCooper]

I wonder if letting the recasts cure for longer with a thin layer of acetone over top might help with the bubbles.

[@adriant1654]

Looks perfect for Grimdark terrain! No more weathering required! ❤😂🎉

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Haha yup its weathered and beaten and shot at lol 😊

[@Izayoink_Saccuy]

Make a mark ii marine with it

[@adamdews1728]

Great as always your enthusiasm shines through, i did see someone using sprue goo, they left it on some greaseproof paper for a few minutes to aid the release of the acetone, this may help to give you less battle damage if thats what you are after, As for the Spure Glue, have you thought about adding more sprue to thicken it up? Possibly paint that into the mould and leave for 5/10mins before adding in the sprue goo? Keep these videoes coming.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Cheers bud, I do have fun making these videos, I did leave the brushed in goo to harden for about 30 mins, its all about trial and error lol 😊

[@JoshBorlase]

Thanks so much for sharing your process!

[@julienatge9816]

Pretty interesting process ! As a polymer engineer, isn't it possible to heat the plastic (with safety protections) and inject the liquid sprue in the molds to avoid the degasing issue from acetone ? And to avoid the sinkholes or other design defects, applying pressure could help (example : heavy stuff on it). But may be the temperature could be too high for these molds.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

I did try heating this stuff a few years ago in a heat resistant mould and it kinda worked to make flat panels, but didnt work too well in anything with detail 😊

[@jasonbrecht8572]

Definitely concur- tryin' things out! Havin' fun! Cheers!

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Cheers bud 😊

[@higheyrie6176]

I did the same technique but with oyumaru. I suggest making spru goo less viscous by using air brush thinner. To avoid bubbles on the surface of the model, apply in layers. To speed up u the process, i again used a thicker sprue goo again made from airbrush thinner (less thinner) and used it as clay. I then shaped it to the mold. Before it hardens, i put the 2-part mold again. Best result is 2 days' curing.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Cheers, Ive just brought some airbrush thinner 😊

[@Terry-hb6wc]

You can do a similar thing with milliput and white spirits to paint in the finer details of the mould

[@MrScaramanga16]

It looks like chaos infested terrain, it's really cool. Be good to use for tyranid terrain, making s bunch of biomechanical stuff

[@joostcbruikman933]

It really makes the best Nurgle terrain. Anything messed up or broken is often made orky or nurgle but it doesn't always look the part. This sprue goo truly makes something seem sculpted as as nurgle. I would love to see it used for the armored sides of a rhino or dreadnought. Can you put the side of a rhino in a mold like that and try it out?

[@KnexJunkie]

They kinda look like pieces that have been hit by a blastzone / heatwave explosion area and a pinch of flame damage. maybe that gives a idea how to use them for terrain. i mean in a real life area you always got more detailed walls and stuf but once something like that happens walls get charred and things get damages includding a lot of fine details. Maybe a exploding titan or a ork warmachine thing (that can with buzzsaw arms and a ork bolter) forgot the name of it. Anyways its nice to see that serten trash can become something.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Yup definently realistic battle damage 😊

[@KnexJunkie]

@@MiniatureHobbyist I like watching you're stuf to zone out by the way. I don't own Minifigures as 40k Warhammer but I also think it never really took of well in Holland. Back in the day when I was a kid there's only been 1 store I walked against that had it in Den Bosch city but that one is long gone. I do love the setting and crazy Ork boys mental state. P.s I do own from 90s Knex men in different colours next to my collection. P.s don't know if you would give those a view they got joints on them you can move around and you can put them in human like situations. Maybe a idea for future projects? Get a knex joint or Lego and build into something? Anyways I will keep watching. It's nice so see Ather person hobby now and then.

[@YarDarkwood]

I jear that if you leave the mold in its bold box you can clamp it tight when the plastic is cureing for better detale.

[@theramsden8873]

I had high hopes for that 🤔 bit of a shame but was nice to see. Thanks for trying it out!

[@tonythepony5876]

i wonder if you could put a big flat weighted something to compress in the mold more

[@Monkeyshaman]

I think you need to degas the clear sprues to get any sort of clarity.

[@mechnymph]

I find the goo mk 2 is best at filling the bubble voids and smoothing the appearance of the original sprue goo. I just made a Tzeentch Screamer and Fluxmaster by carving sprue goo panels and lumps, then filling the voids and bulking out bits with the mk 2.

[@johnnyfortune9800]

I love your style, dude. I've been watching you since the first sprue goo video went up. I've heard of a cheaper alternative to the tamia glue. Celuse thinner. It's supposed to be more or less the same thing. And having spayed cars before I can say it smells exactly like it. Although I haven't tested it myself yet😂 hope this helps and saves you a few quid.

[@FAVLAMANG]

that looks pretty good, i wonder if perhaps putting the sprue goo in a vacuum chamber would help with the little bubbles. not unlike epoxy resin.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

possibly, I just dont have one to try that theory out 😊

[@CTimmerman]

If you can't suck the bubbles out before pouring, maybe pressurize to shrink the bubbles after. Or use Blue Stuff aka Oyumaru to be able to press the Green Stuff or sprue goo harder.

[@Mr.Fishems]

Always a good way to start the day when one of your videos drops!

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Cheers buddy, appreciate that 😊

[@capnskustomworks]

I’d wonder if you’d be able to find some kind of squeeze-type bottle that would be non-reactive with the solvent, that would make filling the mold with goo easier than the spatuler? 🤔 I’m thinking maybe a hair dye bottle might be the right kind of plastic, but that’s just a guess on my part. The casts look really cool! I like the heavily-weathered look.

[@Armabelico]

Can you try to submerge the mold on the bottom of the solvent container so when the "sprus" melt the mass falls by gravity filling the mold, it may fill everything properly, no clue if acetone disolves the mold material. looks amazing and super nice to repurpose all of that waste.

[@unf0ld]

I wonder if putting the filled molds into one of those plastic vacuum bags might help with the gaps?

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

not sure, might be worth trying lol 😊

[@AemonEarl-le1md]

If you wanted a cleaner look maybe you could try making the terrain with sprue goo and once it is set you could try filling the gaps you don’t like with sprue goo mk II?

[@MagicE13]

Surely you could use the Luminous Green like you did with the Mk2 and create an Toxic effect or Acid Spray effect? Maybe use it as a finishing touch for drool? or Plasma if you can get different colours.

[@alextv4930]

Have you tried to clamp the molds against some wood or something the chemical won’t effect to try and get a more firm press into the mold

[@IronVicero]

I'm no expert, short of injection moulding, perhaps try increasing detail by using a less viscous sprue goo mix? Eg, higher acetone to sprue ratio. You were onto something with the goo mk2 idea. Try varying weights of sprue per 100ml of acetone ect. You could also try removing the bubbles with a vacuum chamber before curing. Much cheaper than an injection mould kit.

[@Coproquim]

have you thought about maybe curing the pieces in an empty ultrasonic cleaner? It might help force some of the gases out of it before they create bubbles in the cast

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

I hadnt but thats probably because I dont have one lol 😊

[@Xatxitor]

The plastic ciment is half butyl acetate and acetone. If you want to make it cheaper. Or look for Tamiya airbrush cleaner. It's almost the same

[@rntankie4922]

Happy New year matey, another year another use for Sprue Goo. Keep up the great work

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Cheers bud and a happy new year to you too 😊

[@weswtf]

You could’ve just put the box on the scale then zero it out before weighing the plastic 😂 great video

[@thomrade]

What if you put a a sheet of greasepaper over the mould, and then a heavy flat object like a plant or a book and pressed the whole thing down at once? I wonder would that help force the goo into the details more?

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

I have done that before which does help a little, its just the acetone evaporating that leaves little pocket gaps 😊

[@jamielinsell2188]

Try the thinner goo but do a thin layer, let it dry this should capture details, then add more to build the bulk

[@YanniCooper]

6:20 If you mix a little ink into the Part A before you mix in the Part B it'd make it easier to tell when it's mixed enough.

[@andersand6576]

Happy new year! Always great to see a video from you! A few suggestions for projects in 2025: A machine to turn the trapezoid shape of sprues into squares. Recycling of acetone from spruegoo (googling the amazing still might give some inspiration) A nurgle brother for the awesome spruenaught. Making a mold of thegreaterunclean one and casting it with spruegoo for the cool nurgle texture.

[@415vJJBL]

To minimise evaporation, wait about 2 hours and then demold carefully, much less evaporation but be careful not to overfill to minimise swelling

[@Gwenx]

If you are okay not using the sprue glue you could use air drying clay instead for the details! Super inspiring and a fun idea! I might try it with airdry clay or a mix of airdry clay for details and sprue goo to fill out the rest!

[@Sqalman]

Loved to see a Sprue-Goo video again!!!

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

They do seem popular 😊

[@Prometheus1464]

Looks like ruble turned to slag, it is very neat looking.

[@looselycollected7505]

What if you coated the mold with the thinner sprue goo that you were using? Then, let all of that thin coat set. Then, paint a second thin layer on and let it set. Then fill it with the older heavier sprue goo to fill it and let it set. Or just spread very thin layers in the mold with the old sprue goo. And then let them set up and add another layer. Basically give the material some room and time to offgas so that it doesn't make as many pits and warped details.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

I did leave the new sprue goo to dry for about an hour, I will try again and maybe leave it longer and then do a second coat, its all trial and error lol 😊

[@juicytingles2917]

Maybe try 1:1 green stuff and milliput in the silicon moulds

[@1UnderKable]

The pieces would probably look nice either in a biomass infested area or a place that just got hit with something of tremendous heat and power to represent melting stones and metals. Maybe could also work as a wacky dream sequence area if painted in some fluorescent or pearlescent colors. It definitely can serve a purpose. The only thing I'd say could make it easier to use would be getting it more liquified.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

yup definently nurgly 😊

[@amoryburgess]

The Tamiya cement is MEK…cheaper in bulk from the hardware store. Cheers!

[@HitokiriRaiden]

I wonder if you could use a food air sealer with the bags as a cheap vacuform?

[@andyhoefsmit2082]

I use sprue goo to copy parts of mini's. The way you do it, is not the best. 1- use Tamiya airbrush thinner instead of acetone. 2- when filling you mold, layer the goo, because it wants to shrink. So first use thin goo to capture the details and let it cure. Second layer to thicken it. Then make it a bit thicker (like the gap filling goo at the end). For your scenery you shoul mak at least 5-6 layers and let each layer cure before the next. You will see much better results with only tiny airbubbles.

[@IllusionaryVoice]

I wonder if letting the mark 2 dry for a bit before putting the goo would work better? Or even let the mark 2 dry fully and then put the regular goo

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

I let it dry for 30 minutes but forget to say that in the video lol 😊

[@dabuess]

Would a cycle through a vacuum pump get those bubbles out?

[@silverczaja]

if you want plastic cement but cheaper, buy airbrush cleaner from tamiya its the same stuff just different packaging and half the price maybe then with more cheaper chemical you can cast the whole thing in sprue gue 2.0

[@archlorddestin]

11:00 - They might injection mould stuff, but could you produce a kind of press to increase the pressure you apply to the thing? The simplest presses are just a tube with a weight, lever or screw. Yours would have to be rectangular but still.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

I had thought about making something but sprue goo is quite a thick gloop lol 😊

[@andrewjackson2011]

I've tried all this thank you, pal inspirational, truly great ideas

[@TheSuperboy91]

Try applying pressure with clamps and vices to try and squeeze the excess liquid from the goo as it dries.

[@Kitbash.Carnage]

Hope the newyear went well bro 💪🔥🤘❤️👍

[@HRWelch]

What if you used liquid green stuff instead of sprue goo mk II?

[@roush243]

FYI when you put the acetone based sprue goo in you remelted the cement based sprue goo and removed the detail you might have made. Maybe try making the thin cement based sprue goo and pull it then glue it to the base form created from the acetone sprue glue using CA glue. You might get those details you were wanting from that thin sheeting while giving you the structure from the thick forms.

[@murrayboyton8779]

I wonder if you go the long route and build up layers of GooMk2, would you get a better result.

[@silentsorrowbane]

This would be amazing to make nurgle corrupted stuff.

[@CherudexGaming]

for the sprue goo MK2, the Tamiya airbrush cleaner got the same ingredients and costs like an half (the ingredients are two: one in 51% and the other in 49%... airbrush cleaner and thin cement got the proportions inverted)

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Cheers bud, just brought some to try out 😊

[@CherudexGaming]

@@MiniatureHobbyist check first some informations online! don't trust everything people says online (even if this, in particular, is true) there are some video on youtube in wich they explain and try

[@raistlarn]

So if you have an issue with balancing things on a scale, you can put a kitchen plate (or really anything that'll give you more space to put things on the top,) and hit Tare to zero out the weight of the plate. Just be careful with both weight limits of the scale and not to cover the screen.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

YUp I need a larger scale, this one is tiddly 😊

[@Captain_Max]

You may want to check out here on YT. His channel specializes in creating small toys that could prove to be useful in ways you could use Sprue Goo, such as DIY Injection Moulding. Love the show, keep up the good work.

[@ScottTeel-s4k]

Mmm, this has potential! I have previosly extended my skaven and beastmen ranks for homebrew battles with wax casts. many of my old minis are unavailable anymore, and I have been considering casting more from resen. Spruegoo should work in the single piece skaven molds, the first gen Heroquest type minis that were popped out like fancy chessmen. My few similar Space Marines would come out as instant plague marines with the expected molding goofs. :D

[@4_am]

tamiya extra thin cement is tamiya airbrush thinner! That will save you some pennys if you didn't allready know.

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

Cheers, I have just this second brought some 😊

[@NottsKnots]

Suggestion: Perhaps try just putting down the mk2 stuff brushed into the details of the mould first, dont let it pool anyhwhere, just paint on enoguh to cover the surfaces so that the evaporation happens and the bubbles are on the surface, then when that is fully curerd, add the rest of the spru goo to fill out the rest of the model and let that cure. Maybe then bubbles/details problems with be solved?

[@nickrafuse984]

If you wanted to try "new sprue goo" at scale, I expect the plastic cement is very similar to tamiya extra thin. and..... many people have discovered that Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner is effectively the same as extra thin, and considerably cheaper. especially in bulk

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

That does seem to be what a lot have said so Ive just brought some 😊

[@Qwiv]

maybe let that first layer cure up, then add the next layer. Maybe the bubbles will get out?

[@Anarcho_slimer]

You would have to put more than that tiny amount in the mold to really try it properly, as the mk 1 stuff you put over it would have at least partially reactivated the mk 2.

[@mountbloodkill4477]

Nice video mate, Have you thought about a fishing soft plastic aluminum Injector? think they are like $70, once you have the silicone mold with a hard backing you could press it through.

[@John-g9h6d]

Hello everyone I hope you have a great day

[@dannyp1679]

Thanks, bro...

[@manolo7490]

Why, thank you!

[@MiniatureHobbyist]

and you too bud 😊

[@TheThewhatnow]

Could you use the “better” spruegoo to go over the pieces afterwards? Would that work better than doing it before