MIR-1 2.8/37mm focusing tricks. Explained.

[@juliansimmons7700]

I got a silver 'Brussels' version, but couldn't focus to infinity via m42 adaptor, closest distance was about 2 meters! Opening the lens up revealed only one spacer (looks like the thicker one of the two you have). First, I tried it without the spacer, the lens then focused far too far beyond infinity. Second, instead of filing the spacer down, I removed the infinity stop screw (leaving the close distance stop screw in place). Now the lens focus just past infinity, but not by much. All good! Then I slackened off the three focus ring set screws and adjusted the distance marks and the infinity mark to align correctly. Works well, without having to resort to irreversible filing. So as a result on a M42 adaptor it now focuses just beyond infinity and down to 60cm.

[@RetroFotoHouse]

that's nice, thank you for your input

[@JesseLichtenberg]

Excellent tutorials - you've saved me a great deal of time on several CLA attempts. I did this close focus modification as well, but only gained about 121mm of close focus. Others seem to have had the same results. This was with a Mir-1V (B) on an APS-C camera. Focus marks are accurate to within 1mm when measured from the focal plane and infinity is properly calibrated.

[@RetroFotoHouse]

Glad it helped!

[@bryanoliveira9513]

Dang. How did you get the marks correct?

[@KarlWalterTools]

Hey! Thanks for the tutorial. I had the same issue of not focusing to infinity and also close-up focus distance on my FX nikon d610. I did both of the modifications on the balck edition of MIR-1B and by removing the screw i got closer focusing distances. The infinity focus for full frame nikon is not possible to achive by this mod of making thinner spacer (my lens had only one spacer and I removed 0,4mm with sandpaper) and it still do not reach the infinity. Now the lens can focus in a range from ~0,4m~1,5m, which is better than it was. And, no, it do not disturb the mirror. Everything functions well. however it's not worth to modify the lens for infinity focus if you have full frame nikon.

[@felixrudolph7012]

Hi Retro Foto House! Great channel! You provide the kind of information that I love the internet for! I have a qestion regarding MIR-1 and different version's build quality and I hope this comment section is the right place to ask! My version of the lens has a little bit of play when changing direction of the focusing ring which leads to right- and left-wobble of the image and pretty much renders the lens useless for video work. My version: - silver housing - serial No 6403057 - late ZOMS logo (the one with the little arrow pointing to the right) - threaded "half circle"-metal ring extends from inbetween the rear glass element and the main "screw-ring" in the back You adressed the same issue in your Helios 44-2 ultimate buying guide and I bought the recommended version (BELOMO, green markings, cyrillic writing). The build quality is amazing and there is no play with the moving parts at all! Do you have a recommendation for a MIR1 version that is free of this issue or are they more or less all the same? Thank you in advance!

[@RetroFotoHouse]

Hi Felix! I know how free play is annoying, but it this case i do not know what to advice, as with this lens it is a matter of chance.

[@nisrinakurnia]

Hello may I ask you Which one would be the best version to buy? Mir-1 silver M39 (early version). Mir-1 black M42 (most common) Mir-1A with t-mount (uncommon); Mir-1B M42 (VOMZ). Mir-1V

[@RetroFotoHouse]

i prefer mir-1 silver, much better build quality

[@AltonaBeach]

Great job, good to see how easy this can be done.......

[@cropmotionargentina]

Excellent explanation, and I am grateful; but unfortunately my version of MIR-1V does not come with screws to disassemble it, there are only the little holes and nothing else. I tried putting the screwdriver inside, but nothing happened...nothing comes out. Was there a litter of lenses that were used "rivets"? Apparently yes. (I looked on ebay - just to see if "others" were like this too and there were many like mine... no screw, just holes)

[@RetroFotoHouse]

screws inside holes often are covered with black varnish, you need to remove them first

[@chernobaev]

Объясните пожалуйста в чем разница 1 версии и 1в? И что лучше для видеосъемки?

[@antoniolukinidi1917]

Версия 1 белый объектив - рабочий отрезок 45,2 мм вместо современного 45,5 мм. У чёрного Мир-1 уже это в порядке. Если Никон, то лучше не связываться ни с каким Миром-1 (хоть В, хоть не В) - вряд ли получится устранить разницу. Можно, конечно, взять переходник с корректирующей линзой примерно за 1000 р. Но с линзой как повезёт - может даст искажение, может практически ничего не испортит. При этом надо будет пользоваться таким переходником осторожно - большая вероятность достать задней частью линзоблока до линзы переходника. Если не Никон, то просто брать Мир-1(хоть В хоть не В) с рабочим отрезком 45,5, т.е. в любом случае чёрный. Их механика и оптика у всех одинаковая. Только считается, что первые выпуски были качественнее.

[@chernobaev]

Виктор Сидоренко спасибо 🙏

[@CaiporaRecords]

Hello there! My mir 1b does not have a skrew to remove. I tryed to remove the ring with the lens rench, but it seens to be stuck. What can I do for it?

[@RetroFotoHouse]

Hi! it is not stuck, just screws inside holes are covered with black varnish, you need to remove them first

[@jd5787]

Hi! are there a lot of differences in terms of build quality, optical elements and character and between the Mir 1 "Brussels Grand prix" and their newer iteration Mir 1B (M42 mount)? thank you!

[@Doughping]

I did the minimum focusing mod and gained maybe around 10cm more closer focus. So it is still around 50-55cm. Is this normal or is there something else to be fixed?

[@RetroFotoHouse]

i think you did what was possible

[@sammatthewjones802]

Same here getting the same measurement

[@thurthevintagelens]

is this needed if you have a nikon z camera?

[@PabloDeBiasi]

Hello, I've got a MIR-1B that I'd like to regrease but I can't unscrew the back ring, tried with some drops of WD-40 around the thread and under but it won't move even applying a lot of force, I'm afraid of damaging it, any advice? Thank you

[@ricardobirnbaum]

Thank you, for his is really interesting. I have to try it with mine... having issues with infinity sharpness on PL mount

[@mmixo]

One question. What If i take out the other screw, the one that limits infinity. Would it go beyond infinity, so i could "reach it" with a regular Nikon adapter?

[@mmixo]

Of course, i am talking about taking out one screw, not both. It would be a "further infinity mod" LOL. Would it be possible?

[@RetroFotoHouse]

unfortuntaly not try and you'll see by yourself what happens

[@juliansimmons7700]

@@mmixo Yes it works perfectly, see my fresh post above.

[@rossobosso]

Oh damn... I somehow forgot to do the marking, now everything is totally weird, i can´t focus, the wheels are somehow stuck, aperture doesn´t work properly, it´s all a chaos now =) what now? =D I am not sure if there is one srwe or two, maybe the second is broke, I am just not sure. So i removed the rear part, unscrew the close focus screw, and pout it back all together, but well, it´s all chaos now... damn :)

[@RetroFotoHouse]

Please visit my eBay stores at: www.ebay.com/usr/kosbik84 www.ebay.com/usr/retrofotohouse

[@dandanu2526]

Very useful information!

[@mmixo]

Hello friend. I would like to know If an early silver m39 Mir 1 optical block fits inside a Black m42 Mir 1b body. Thank you

[@RetroFotoHouse]

this i do not know, never tried to make exchange....

[@mmixo]

@@RetroFotoHouse thanks for the reply. I got an optical block from ukraine. Should have sent to you guys... I am from Brazil

[@henrikedelbo2785]

The close focus trick does not work with my black 1988 version of the lens. I removed the stopping screw but the lens will still not turn further than 0,7m. It still gets stuck even though screw isn't there. Any advice would be much appreciated:-)

[@adanafilm]

Do you ever seen MIR-46 35mm f1.4 ? I think this lens was a prototype but is this possible to get one?

[@RetroFotoHouse]

no, i never heard about that one

[@TheSuphan]

Thank you very much.

[@indypendent07]

Thank you for your videos! What version of the Mir1B do you recomend for video? What is the name of your ebay store?

[@RetroFotoHouse]

mir-1 silver is better than mir-1v www.ebay.com/str/vintagephotoequipmentandother

[@GizzoGezzu]

I have a question. I bought Mir 1. Grand Prix Brussels 1958. Silver version. As in the video. I managed to shift the focus to closeness. Removing But when it comes to rings and focus at infinity, there is only one 1mm thick ring inside. If I modify it and reduce it by 0.3mm will it still be able to work on the Canon 6d full frame. Because now he's hitting the mirror. Or is that option impossible on a Full frame dslr camera? Thanks in advance. The Lens is now going 2mm in from the m42 adapter.

[@RetroFotoHouse]

This is general problem of this lens. It hits mirror, unfortunately

[@GizzoGezzu]

@@RetroFotoHouse so What are my options? Do i have any?

[@RetroFotoHouse]

@@GizzoGezzu to use mirrorless camera with this lens, like full frame sony a7 series

[@GizzoGezzu]

@@RetroFotoHouse i was hoping your not gonna say that. Thank you for your time.

[@SteveSSBB]

I modified mine to work. If you look at the video (or the lens if you have one) you will see a little extra metal tab-like section that protrudes from the back of the optical section. I filed this down so that the mirror clears. It works without issue. There is one trick I can highly recommend when putting any m42 lens on a Canon DSLR for the 1st time. Use LiveView to see if the mirror clears the back of the lens. When the camera moves the mirror up for LiveView it is much less aggressive and slower than a shutter actuation, so the chances of damage engaging LiveView are almost nil compared to a shutter actuation.

[@razbiton173]

Hello RetroFotoHouse! I have that lens, in early red t mark. Excellent condition but the lens seems to never be able to focus correctly, like the focused area is still blurred and somewhat out of focus, probably whoever took it apart before for maintenance messed up the focus calibration. How can I fix it?

[@RetroFotoHouse]

what camera do you use this lens with?

[@razbiton173]

@@RetroFotoHouse a7riv

[@razbiton173]

@@RetroFotoHouse is there any solution for that? Its still somewhat focusing weird, my guess is that someone took it apart and messed up the alignment of the rings

[@razbiton173]

@@RetroFotoHouse maybe I can send it to you for inspection? Ill pay for the shipping and service!

[@relaxvideomusic]

Hi, is it possible to fix focusing distance to Elmar Leica 50mm f3.5 or Industar 22, thanks

[@cjewe1z]

Which version of Mir-1 37mm is best (for video and still)?

[@nikob.7771]

I was wondering if you knew where to find replacement screws for this lens? Unfortunately I purchased a model which has broken heads:(

[@RetroFotoHouse]

Only from parts or repair lens donor

[@DuncanDimanche-sreview]

amazing review !!! awesome !! I have a question! What is the difference between the MIR-1 and MIR-1T and I also saw a MIR-1B ? thanks so much

[@RetroFotoHouse]

Mir-1 is early model, mir-1b is further development in m42 mount, mir-1t is techincal lens.

[@antoniolukinidi1917]

Есть пара замечаний. Во-первых, скорее всего можно обойтись без напильника. Для этого просто надо удалить ограничитель на "бесконечность", как Автор удалил его на 0.7м (МДФ). И вполне возможно, что если фокусировочное кольцо сможет продвигаться далее отметки "бесконечность" на 45 градусов, то этого будет и достаточно для компенсации 0,3 мм. Во-вторых, после работы напильника или удаления дополнительного юстировочного кольца, стопорная гайка-кольцо уже на место не станет, она пойдёт дальше. Поэтому смотреть, где там был стопорный винтик (толщиной 1,3 мм) смысла уже нет, - надо просто потуже закручивать стопорную гайку тем инструментом, который остался без дела. Ну а потом можно стопорный винтик закрутить куда получится. У некоторых моделей Мир-1 их два. А в моём случае (с удалением ограничителя вместо напильника) смещения гайки не будет - она станет на прежнее место.

[@DoronTshuva770]

is there a trick like that for helios 44-2 too? for closer focus?

[@RetroFotoHouse]

No, there isn't

[@denistonti]

I have found out, that it's possible to reduce the MFD on the Helios 44m..... I am not sure if it is also possible with the Helios 44-2..... 🤔

[@spiritencyclopedia7166]

Bro, please help With the 1958 version i own aperture ring doesn't work properly, it sometimes can open/close the aperture and sometimes not, as if it can't meet with the stoppers at f16 anf f2.8 and rotates all the way around without doing a thing to the aperture blades. :( Please do a complete disassembly of the optical block so we can also clean it entirely and fix aperture blade issue.

[@CornyS]

This hack will work also for Nikon? by removing spacer ring? I have Mir-1B (V) black version.

[@RetroFotoHouse]

No, because lens rear element will hit the mirror

[@antoniolukinidi1917]

@@RetroFotoHouse Not always. Full format - more risk, but for crop probably not. Nikon has another broblem - different work distance. Nikon 46,5 mm, Mir-1B 45,5 mm. Then adapter adds 1 mm. Summary the difference is 2 mm. Usually the removing spacer ring does not help. You must have adapter with correction lense.

[@Albanez39]

It can work for every camera, but Nikon and Canon full frame cameras have a very short Flange Distance. You risk hitting the mirror with the rear of the lens. That's why mirrorless cameras are great for adapting lenses, you have a lot of distance to work with...

[@mrgVideosAR]

I need to ask you the correct distance needed for infinity focus on a EOS-M camera. My EOS-M to 39MM adapter is just 10.6 mm hight and my lens need to be a lot more separate from the camera. Probably I need another adapter, but really not sure how much. Can you help me? Do I need another bigger adapter or you have any available on you store? Milton

[@RetroFotoHouse]

Hi! The flange focal distance of this lens is 45,2mm. You need to put m39-m42 step up ring and than use m42-eos-m adapter. This setup will work, it will just a bit under infinity.

[@mrgVideosAR]

Retro Foto House Ok, now that I have the correct 45,2mm focal distance I can manage this. I am thinking to add a tilt and shift control, but also have m42 to EF-M adapter. Many thanks for the information.

[@RavikantRai21490]

Will this method work on the Mir-1V for a Micro Four Thirds mount? I don't know if it really has infinity focus issue on MFT mount. Yet to do some tests.

[@RetroFotoHouse]

Yes, it will. Bit video is not about how to gat infinity focusing, about how to get a closer focus

[@arthurmermelshtein1767]

Well done.

[@rickbyrne7631]

Excellent. Thank you.

[@relaxvideomusic]

Hello. Thanks for video. I have Fuji XT1, going to buy Mir 1. I like to have min focusing distance. What do you think? will i get 35cm?

[@RetroFotoHouse]

Yes, you will

[@spellxthief]

does anyone have any thoughts on the MIR 24M/H/N 35mm f2? I'm deciding between these two MIR and a Vivitar 35mm f1.9

[@RetroFotoHouse]

mir 24m is awesome lens, please watch my video where i shoot video using this lens among 3 others(from 2.15") kzbin.info/www/bejne/qHyVqZpmaJacmJo

[@man-ngokduskyso6654]

You really know how to hack the lenses

[@RetroFotoHouse]

yes i do)

[@Salkley]

I did both mods to my mir1 and it worked perfectly, thank you very much for these useful tips! Is it possible to do this on m39 helios 44 aswell to get infinity focus?

[@RetroFotoHouse]

No, it won't work in this way

[@antoniolukinidi1917]

И ещё, кстати, об английском. Словарный запас есть - это хорошо. Но как-то не то. Есть очень хорошие курсы на Ютубе у Марины Озеровой - произношение и прочее. Просто обалдеть. Если есть время и интерес, конечно. Без обид, это я с лучшими пожеланиями... Успехов.

[@Zabarotropitili]

у нее самой ярко выраженный русский акцент. как будто советскую учительницу по английскому слушаешь. нужно заниматься по урокам от англоговорящих преподователей. а то что русский акцент это наоборот многим нравится. просто ему надо чуть быстрее говорить. но со временем научится.

[@Solertcore]

I believe your calculations are wrong, after the modification my Mir 1B can focus as close as 59 cm not 35 cm.

[@antoniolukinidi1917]

For example, Nikon and some other cameras -Crop-factor is 1.5. So effective focuse is 37mm*1,5 = 55,5 mm, Canon - 37mm*1.6 = 59 mm.

[@Solertcore]

@@antoniolukinidi1917 Minimum focusing distance is indepent from the crop factor. What you are talking about is focal length. This lens can focus 59cm not mm from sensor with this modification

[@antoniolukinidi1917]

@@Solertcore Yes, I understand. You are right. For Nikon is one distance, for Canon another. Because they have different work distance - 46,5 and 45,5 mm for example.

[@antoniolukinidi1917]

@@Solertcore And I want to add. Mir-1 Brussels (white) has work distance 45,2 mm, but Mir-1B 45,5mm. This is one more reason.

[@antoniolukinidi1917]

And one remark more. The phisical focal length is indepent from anything. 37 mm will be always.

[@antoniolukinidi1917]

Автор, не понимаю - есть специальный инструмент для откручивания линз, который лежит рядом, а мы по старинке плоскозубцами!

[@georgethemmaker]

Removed close focus screw too,and also cut that half round piece after hear that may hit the mirror on ff cameras. Tested on my Nikon D750 and works great.Before that i used it with my Canon 100D.

[@RetroFotoHouse]

Thanks for your input!

[@amirshakoori861]

How about removing the infinity focus? Did you try it?

[@georgethemmaker]

@@amirshakoori861 I did this first time,to use it mainly on a Canon body.Maybe I will !

[@vasyapupken]

без перчаток удобнее. поверь.

[@Zabarotropitili]

мой мир жутко мылит на бесконечности. наверно проблема как раз в неподходящем рабочей отрезке. хотя объектив даже на полностью открытой диафграме по шкале показывает ГРИП начиная с 10 метров. скорее всего это просто шутка от советских инженеров.