I will never talk about Z wobbling ever again !

[@dev-debug]

That design is impressive ! I saw your early attempts at fixing the wobble but never saw that solution until now, crazy smooth.

[@MirageC]

Thank you very much!

[@janvostarek4396]

This design Is complete nonsense

[@Chris0612]

@@janvostarek4396 Why?

[@liamventer]

Mirage my first experiments with the Rat Rig V-Core 3 started with an adaption of your very clever wobble rings. Subsequently I developed the VenterMechs (Simpler and less fiddly than Wobble rings and results were just as good - hundreds of people using them) and then I upgraded the Rat Rig I was using as my test bed to the 1P Z design to also eliminate the 'hula' movement, which other designs don't address very well. This design has proven the best yet. The design is open source for non commercial use and I don't sell any parts for it. I wrote a series of articles on the popular Z designs and the issues and fixes for them including the 1P design.

[@benjaminjohnson6476]

I think this is a fantastic example of a good mechanical design to solve the issue rather than a software patch to try and fix it.

[@janvostarek4396]

This Is great example of how not to do it, design Is incredible dumb nonsense.

[@michaelwatson7211]

I just can't believe that it's cheaper/ better than buying straight ball screws or making the frame stiffer. I don't really get this fashion of using proper linear rails and lead screws (all from aliexpress) an mounting the lot to a frame made of jelly. It dosn't seem like good engineering to me

[@Sharpless2]

@@michaelwatson7211 Cheaper? Youve never seen the prices for an actual high quality ball screw + ball nut huh? A high quality ball nut itself can easily costs more than the 3d printer itself. $400 for a ball nut is very common, $750 to $800 for a quality ball nut is normal.

[@sfproject-life3829]

Ball screw + linear rails?

[@michaelwatson7211]

@@Sharpless2 Yeah I meant lead nuts, which aren't that expensive even for OK ones. And thats only one of my points, why buy this stuff if you are going to mount it to a frame so weak it's deformed by an 8mm rod? Lazer cut steel is pretty cheap, tapping holes isn't that hard, avoiding that then splurging on custom components, and rails with a >200kg capacity is building your house on the sand.

[@heyspookyboogie644]

It’s kind of amazing how the most minuscule vibration/etc will become apparent in a print. Though it would actually be cool if it could be taken advantage of since sometimes the effect actually looks nice without being part of the design itself.

[@ChauHuh]

Some ceramic printing use this technique.

[@jooch_exe]

This is a gift to the printing community. Thanks!

[@MirageC]

Glad you like it!

[@flikflak24]

0:04 close. The actual best is to remove the screws all together and use linear motors ( though it can be a bit pricey for off the shelf or hard to figure out diy )

[@msansjr]

I really like mellow's parts, they are expensive, but people say something about getting what you pay for... Congrats on succeeding on creating an awesome product!

[@MirageC]

Thank you!

[@michaelwatson7211]

like straight ball screws?

[@MirageC]

@@michaelwatson7211 will you sponsor them?

[@michaelwatson7211]

​@@MirageC I think I don't really get the problems you are trying to solve, my background is in CNC, the idea of a ball screw deforming the frame is pretty nuts, as is the idea of using a bent screw. Why don't people use a cantilever bed on 4 bearings with a single screw (I've seen this with 2 bearings eg ultimaker but not 4)? Wouldn't it be cheper/ easier to make stiff than using 2 extra ball screws, if you don't care about weight in the frame the whole thing could be welded in thick plate it would be pretty easy to shim it flat once and be done with it. I also don't think you really get any benefit from ball screws over lead screws here, there can't be any backlash becuse the force on the bed is always down, unless there is somthing strange going on with the frame deforming or the 3 screw arangement. Like I said though I don't get the problems, the costs i was using in my head seem to be about an order of magnitude more than you are spending for screws at least, maybe the calculations just all work out different to my intuition.

[@gyrogearloose1345]

Instead, how about starting with high quality ball screws and properly machined bearing ends, along with a rigid frame and precision sliders?

[@ResistCircuitResist]

I know you are beating a dead horse, HOWEVER i super appreciate the systematic approach of testing and validating mods. Too many it seems are done in the name of performance, but end up causing more issues that they fixed. I'm currently trying to print as fast as possible with the best quality on ender 3. Lack of time does not allow for the cool stuff like voron.

[@drallersouldust3054]

this kind of problem was already solved for over a century

[@BigfootPrinting]

Oliver, what are your thoughts on printers using belts instead of screws?

[@MirageC]

I don't have experience with Belted Z, Only seen user mods of them and no official design around them. I have many questions... Will the bed jump up and down as the belt vibrates from XY vibration sent through the frame? How many parts will be involved to lift an 8mm 500*500 bed and keep it up there?.... Somehow... I don't feel the need to investigate these question anymore 😁

[@Soravia]

Belts are nightmare at high speed, unless you can afford to go very wide and tight. The heavier the XY movements, the more vibration will be sent down.

[@sanderveenman599]

@@Soravia so how is it that vorons use them apparantly without z wobble? better figure this out before i order a voron :)

[@Soravia]

@@sanderveenman599 how wide is the belt vs print size for XY and the assembly weight?

[@smorrow]

@@MirageC Kralyn Positron has belted Z if that's official enough for you. Maybe other folding printers have it too.

[@UloPe]

So glad I found your channel. This hobby desperately needs more evidence based examination of "known" things. I especially like that you're not afraid to show when one of your hypothesis turns out not to work (as in the extruder gear issue for example).

[@The_high-commander]

A very elegant solution. I was actually designing something like this for my Ender 3. I used ball bearings from motorcycle parts and the pins from an old DVD writer I had around. I made some prototypes but stopped once I learned that Oldham-type nut exists.

[@babbagebrassworks4278]

Yep, got them on my CNC X1 otherwise all the stepper motor torque goes into bending the screw.

[@mbunds]

Eureka! You solved a huge "mystery" problem! The world of 3D printing owe you a great debt! (BTW; VERY cool camera zoom, out from the reflection of the chrome bearing ball; nice stylistic choice!)

[@teardowndan5364]

Reminds me of a documentary I've seen many years ago about how some bridges in quake-prone areas decouple their structures from the ground using large bearings in concave cavities to make it self-centering.

[@barenekid9695]

Did I hear /see correctly then.. there is an 8mm variant for the Typ (ubiquitous) 8mm Z screw ? As in it engages threads or captures a pom nut.. And is of maneagable size to fit a Prusa / clone configuration? Currently seeing only greyed out listings in Mellow pages

[@exton132]

I've never once thought about this type of wobble while printing.I just thought the slight variance was due to the unavoidable motion created by moving the print head. Absolutely mind blowing to learn you can get near perfect finishes on printed parts without sanding/finishing.

[@Theexplorographer]

You never thought about it because it's NON-EXISTENT!

[@heavyweather]

​@@Theexplorographerif you use belts ... or a delta.

[@MrHeHim]

Me sitting here with a Sermoon D1 (nothing special, just a very sturdy "bed dropper" machine) and no Z wobble, shift, banding from the top of a 310mm print. This is with one of the lead screws having a slight bend. I did the math on deflection, and less than 1mm deflection translates to almost nothing. I also tightened the brass nut screws, then loosened it 1/4 turn to allow lateral shifting but no Z slop. The bed rides on two vertical 20x40mm v-slot extrusions Two things i did, i put the bed all the way down until it bottomed out and loosened the z-rods then activated the stepper motors as to jump into phase. Then i carefully tightened the couplings as to not move them in the slightest, the stepper motor will give a little while being energized. That made the z-banding nearly invisible and you had to really really look for it. Then i did the same thing again but this time i installed a timing belt, making sure they where in perfect phase i energized the motors on and off listening and feeling for any shift. That completely removed any z-banding visible. Note; I'm using a 0.5mm nozzle and regularly print at 0.12mm to 0.32mm layer heights. I always use PTFE grease on lead screws and PFTE oil/grease mix on LM8UU bearings and meticulously square my machine. Which annoyingly exposes any slop in the bearings and makes them slightly noisy.

[@iansabrewolfe]

Given how not-straight Ender 3 style lead screws tend to be, this is going to be a must have upgrade for anyone running dual Z’s.

[@duc696monster6]

Cause 3 d printers print up down, not in layers?...one whole layer the Z axes don't move .then move what, 0.2mm to get the next layer hight , then the whole layer print z stays still, not moving a 1000of a mm...so this "gimmick" doesnt solve anything, it's a false narrative, nicely presented, but nothing of truth to it..a bit like Ukraine war and NATO excuses...

[@drallersouldust3054]

I am a welder and I use 1 solid stainless rod to hold and stabilize and 1 threaded for moving up and down nor left and right movement and it fixed the issue, you can also find in most industrial how they already fixed your problem specially with CNC

[@twoheadedpanthr]

I always wondered if you would come back around to the wobble wings you first shared. You're doing some great work in advancing the small things that have big impacts in 3d printing.

[@tensiondriven]

Wow, great video. I built a ~2000mm tall bed slinger, and wondered about my artifacts. This is really great. Thanks for making these available to purchase.

[@seha2306]

Thanks wobble man, instantly ordered 3 WobbleX. Been fighting with the Z wobble for 3 years on my custom printer. I will soon add a custom mount for the Sparkcube XL.

[@MirageC]

Glad I could help Keep me posted on the results!

[@doomer8348]

Did it work?

[@klausbrinck2137]

I haven´t followed the progress after your first video in this topic (refered to at 0:40), well, that must be years ago... But I always know this video here would one day come and find me... I never doubted you are gonna solve the problem, even in a mass-production-scale. I even thought the probel was solved years ago, little did I know about engineering... But that here is on another level! Longevity and good prices, not just a DIY-solution.

[@babbagebrassworks4278]

A great way to add precision without making everything from cast iron and concrete. Will be checking out those 8mm ones.

[@larryfroot]

I got so exasperated at looking for the cause of my wobbling and banding that, when I discovered that the second lead screw was going through a malaligned flange attached to the backplate, I lost it. Got unlucky with Creality's quality control (or lack of it). I stripped out the lead screws and modded the z movement to use belts instead, driven by a stepping motor on top of the assembly. It rotates a horizontsl bar via a transmission, which provides the vertical movement for the belts. Worked a treat.

[@munzlp]

Z wobble isn't always the sole reason for Z artifacts or Z banding - No matter how much we compensate! There's always others factors coming into play, too.

[@onewa712]

well of course! but like, that was a HUGE reason. It's like seeing your house has mold everywhere, no electricity and also half of it is under the water bc of the latest hurricane or whatever: Sure, fungi and lack of energy are very important, but solving the issue of the flood would greatly improve your house, and also would help to solve the other two things 😆

[@NeoAcheron]

Yup... On my custom Delta printer I had the problem where the bed is static, but still experienced z-banding. Turns out it was the PSU I was using, it had a very very loud fan, that would only turn on when "needed". The fan drew enough power that the voltage dropped, causing the bed to cool a bit faster than the PID tune could kick it back up, and the expansion was enough to cause visible artifacting. Took me months to figure out.

[@onewa712]

@@NeoAcheron daaaaaaaamnnn! Awesome that you found out! Sounds like something you might not find easy at all untill everything else is correct

[@mikejones-vd3fg]

Right, i was just thinking about this, you dont really print while the z is moving up, so that extrusion line widh shouldnt be all uneven because of Z wobble. Well not all of it, thats more likely to due bed temp fluctuations, that will cause the z to change ever so slightly while is shirnking and contracting, something more probable since its happening constantly while on the same layer, whereas a Zrod problem would only show up in layer changes. And in this example here it does seem to be Z wobble since the pattern reflected the rods. But the uneven "bumpy" random lines he was showing arent z wobble, but more likely bed temp fluctuations. Same effect, different reason. Why I think its important to PID tune your bed while the fan is blowing as well so it has that constant cooling to fight against, should make the temperature more consistant.

[@JeffDM]

This channel has a lot of videos on the topic of Z artifacts and even things that look like Z artifacts.

[@ad5000donnell]

I seriously love following this not only as a Mechatronics Engineer but now I’m torn between a design like this or Voron so hard to decide now

[@EgorKaskader]

It depends on your needs, really. A Voron's quad gantry belt assembly hits its limits in size quicker than this design, and I would say that the pin mod (replaces screws as axles with hardened pins) and GE5C gantry tilt blocks instead of the stock plastic on plastic tilters are almost a requirement for high performance ones. It is, however, much simpler to isolate motion problems and there's fewer of them in the first place as belts don't tend to introduce Z-axis artifacts to nearly this extent. I'm not sure the fixed bed VS tri-screw bed is really making much difference at this scale of design.

[@DrSp0nge]

one of the best 3d printer channels out ther, you and vez3d rly are leading the industry RN!!!! keep it goin!!!!

[@MirageC]

Thank you! I am glad you enjoy what we do 😊

[@Vez3D]

❤❤

[@Voltaggio1]

Serious question, I have seen so much content on eliminating Z wobble. Wouldn't using belt driven Z axis not completely eliminate the issue without needing so much engineering?

[@heavyweight6440]

Very great video! I have made the somewhat exact same experiences you talk about in this video. I have an Ender 3 with a single Z-axis screw. I used a anti-Z-wobble constriction from Tekti from Thingiverse as inspiration, designed it completely from scratch from CAD and use it in my printer right now. It works, but as you said at 7:30 you need to fixate both ends of the screw, so the "wobble" will be transferred to the part that is made to take on the wobble. It works very great, even thoug it is 3D-printed and uses magnets instead of little rods. So far, so good. Very cool video, I like it.

[@MirageC]

Thank you! Glad you liked it. Yes, many systems will accomplish the same role. Many ways to skin a cat as they say... My grandfather did anyways ... lol

[@heavyweight6440]

@@MirageC Yes, I had to do some iterations, but since the print is actually 3 piece and quite small, it doesnt take long to print. I sureley had some space trouble because of the extruder stepper motor. But it works pretty good, even though not engineered/desgined to every standard. I hate to go for some shortcuts to safe a bit of space ... no threaded insert but screws directly into the plastic. Works fine if you dont tighten it too much and dont unscrew it and rescrew it every half an hour.

[@patrickboyd8368]

@@heavyweight6440 Have you observed the hardened ball bearings chewing up the PLA layers buffering between the magnet pulling from the other side...in the same way MirageC noticed bearings directly on magnets chewed up the magnet surface?

[@heavyweight6440]

@@patrickboyd8368 Not yet. Right now it all looks kinda good, but I can imagine that after enough print hours the magnets will probably suffer the same fate as they did in MirageC's video. I also am pretty sure that Tekti has developed a different version that doesnt use magnets anymore but 2 dowl pins as guidance for the ball bearing. They have much greater HRC then the neodym magnets and will probably not suffer such a fate. But as of now, it all looks ok. I think they weight of the tray is not great enough to damage it very fast. Otherwise you could upgrade to double Z-Axis on the ender 3 and split the load up on two anti-wobble systems. This doubles the area where force is applied and the surfaces of the magnets will live much longer. The PLA looks all fine as of now. Prints also come out good.

[@ninjarobotmonk3y]

amazing! I love how much the community help each other out and come up with amazing ideas then share them! Thanks for taking the time to create and put it all into a video :)

[@valmirrobsonjusto9313]

Hi guy! It's fantastic design. Congratulations for that and for all the development... have you thought about or already have a plan/project for prusas?

[@KiwiMechEng]

I did much the same on a precision X-Y table I designed in 1993. The precision-ground NSK ball screw I used was very good geometrically but under high (1G) acceleration against an offset load, the ballnut would skew under deflection of the bracket and subsequently jam on the screw. What I implemented was basically a U-joint around the ballnut. Rolled-thread lead screws are pretty bad for precision but at low acceleration I suspect you could get away with a rubber mount.

[@irreverend_]

Biggest issue I have with my Sovol SV06 (and my Ender-3 V2 for that matter) is all z axis related. Not sure how that would fit to either of them but if the 8mm one is compatible, definitely something I'd be interested in when I have a bit of spare money.

[@allaboutvisual]

AMAZING!!! Would that support the PrusaMK3 or Mini printers at all? thanks

[@randomGuy87393]

Looking forward to Prusa support

[@maxmustermann2596]

If I have 3 ball screws, does it cost almost 70€? Concerning that Aliexpress is usually very, very, very cheap, it sounds expensive for a few rods, balls and a piece of aluminum with some holes in it.

[@ChrisHarmon1]

It is expensive. Surprised nobody has knocked it off already. Good thing about it is you can print this, buy some pins and cut them down without losing anything. Edit: or just use a belt.

[@maxmustermann2596]

@@ChrisHarmon1 I agree, but due to the reason for being different, I would like to use even more ball screws. I really would like to use them for x, y just for the sake of it ^^. For x and y I would have to modify the design anyhow and it would be bright to first finish a Voron just to increase the likelihood to be able to print anything at all.

[@Mytagforhalo]

Wow guys, i've been working on designing my own printer. I had long since decided to go with ballscrews and I never considered something like this on a cheap set of screws. Im really glad I haven't ordered anything for the Z axis yet! This is an ingenious solution.

[@henry-louisguillaume532]

Just discovered it ? is there a way to have some cause on aliexpress its out of order ??? many thls in advance

[@MirageC]

Salut! Mellow pevoit en recevoir vers la fin de cette semaine 😉

[@henry-louisguillaume532]

@@MirageC Yes nickel, j'espère que ça parvenir à régler ce problème sur ma X1 et encore améliorer l'impression sur ma ender 3

[@marsgizmo]

excellent work! 👏😎

[@MirageC]

Thank you very much! I am glad you liked it.

[@aihohuu8883]

@@MirageC I don't see in the archive the file in between Wobble X_TR8 and ZCarriage_WS8 for ender. can you share it?

[@namitu3d]

​@@MirageC When can we expect a version for the Voron 0.2 with Kirigami Bed? That would be an incredible asset for the many 0.2 users

[@layeredwork]

From the technical point of view I'm totally thrilled. From a users perspective and from Bambu X1C users perspective: It is possible to use it in this printer, too? Do I even need it for this printer? 🤔

[@mjetdevelopment]

Amazing. Your scientific approach really makes me believe everything you say

[@Sulphur_67]

the sound of the stepper motor slowly moving the screw and it being affected by the screw wobble is satisfying

[@mhm203]

This looks interesting wonder if this could be incorporated in the Bambu lab printers? As they are tri z axis like your example

[@mathiashellere8907]

This is so awesome man! Been following this journey for a few years now, and I'm glad to see it concluded

[@MirageC]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@jangrewe]

It's amazing to see how one person's perseverance to create the absolutely best print results can improve the whole future of a technology. I'm looking forward to see Wobble X adapted by the Voron community soon. ;-)

[@pirobot668beta]

Our most useful tools have came from someone solving a 'minor problem'!

[@darklord14]

You and the community are amazing for such solution!!! I'm especially happy that's also available for common bed slinger's lead screw!

[@mamatuja]

This was a nice presentation but I can make system using belts 5 times cheaper and 5 times simpler and yes 5 times better.🤔😉🤘

[@MirageC]

Go for it! cant wait to see your system! 😉

[@lucastonoli3256]

Prove it.

[@drumid1881]

Just bought a set after the restock. Can't wait to get them installed!!! I knew as soon as I saw this video how good of an idea this was. Simple yet elegant and solves the problem once and for all.

[@espjim]

WHERE did you buy these? I have been looking every 5 minutes since this video came out and they are never in stock. :)

[@drumid1881]

​@Jim Drew I had to wake up at 9am today to get them as I knew they would sell out fast. If you message the seller and ask for the next restock date this will give you a better time to check.

[@espjim]

@@drumid1881 Thanks... I have left several messages via Aliexpress as well as their Discord channel with no response. :(

[@MirageC]

They are now! Qty100 have been restocked today.

[@drumid1881]

@@MirageC WHOOP WHOOP. grab them while you can

[@rachellejanssen2655]

I'm planning on buying a bambulab X1 and leave my ender 5 plus as a backup big volume printer, but maybe with this I can extend its life a bit longer! Edit: the ws8 is out of stock, any idea when they will be back? Edit2: I installed the wobbleX, and under the correct amount of light I can see a tiny amount of movement. However, I still have massive Z issues. I gave up on my ender 5 plus, I have a bambulab X1C now and it prints flawless.

[@Shiruvan]

ngl, its cool to see original idea straight to Aliexpress or Chinese volume manufacture, relieves some of the guilt having to cheap out to knockoffs that may've gone too far, either being off spec or actual cheapness for profit's sake

[@float32]

Did you try removing the tip mount for the screw, so it’s only supported by the bottom? This eliminates most problems for most people, because it prevents it all from being over constrained, and from being sensitive to bends. This is what I did.

[@MirageC]

On a lead screw this works well indeed. On a ball screw it is a different story. They need a support bearing at the bottom. SInce they are bigger and so rigid, they will still pull your bed around.

[@artyboomshaka]

I don't know about other types of printers but for ender3 types the lead screw is supposed to be free at the top end in order to minimize z-wobble. I wonder how much of an improvement over stock this solution represents in that specific case.

[@scottwatrous]

I wonder if this would work at larger scale for a large CNC router using 20mm ballscrews? Often those deal with shaft whip when running at speed and that leads to artifacts on the parts as it cuts. Having a compensation unit like this might, while not eliminating the core problem of whip, alleviate its major effects on parts. Especially for wanting to cut things like foam.

[@whynotbuildit]

Dude I just saw these on aliexpress and was very curious, great video

[@saddle1940]

Thanks for the response on the other Z wobble video. I am just copying my design query from there to here. Could you have also removed the wobble by placing the drive at the ball screw nut instead of at the bottom (or end) of the screw? You are only fighting the wobble because there is a gap between the drive and the ball screw nut and the deformation of the screw between the two. It would be easier to fix the screw (vertically, let it wobble around horizontally) and drive the nut directly with a thrust bearing between it and the platform connection. To spin the nut with the motor, not the screw.

[@Phoenixfire425]

How is this in comparison to Oldham couplers? I have been running Oldham couplers for a while and have seen an improvement. But I feel this might work better. defiantly less friction.

[@mercuriallimit]

planning to get into 3d printing, and stumble on this clip, wtf is going on sensei??? damnnnnn, I will have to come back again when I get my machine. Very extensive demonstration! SUBBED

[@Stiffsce]

Would the ender 3 wobble x work on the ender 5plus

[@KrustyKlown]

years ago we started with M5 threaded Z Rods .. they bend, mostly eliminating effects of wobble seen with current massive lead screw rods being used today.

[@blueben1224]

From a mechanical point of view, this is not a vibration problem, it is a problem on DOF (degree of freedom) control. The pin-ball mechanism isolates the DOF constraints from the power screw making it only transmit the motion in Z direction.

[@Spacefish007]

First need to get my extruder under control.. I see different wall thinknesses on straight walls depending on other features on the same layer. Guess has something to do with heat capacity of the hotend, pressure in the chamber + using a bowden extruder..

[@Rocketeer6]

Very iimpressive & clever design! Also love how you edit your videos!

[@UmbertoLoCicero]

That's awesome! But I have a question, maybe it's just me, but it seems at 9:07 that there is not enough space for the stepper motor in the ender 3, I hope I'm wrong.

[@matthewlandon5881]

Thank you for your work. I have used the previous design on my printer which is now showing signs of wear. I need this upgrade. I have a question regarding supporting the top of the lead screws . Are there advantages to having it fixed vs floating? My homemade CoreXY, has a lifting bed with 2 lead screws, and 4 supporting rods on the corners. Is it not better to allow the lead screw to float with the wobble?

[@MirageC]

When using the WobbleX there is no more containment of the screw at the bed level, which means it is like if the screw was free all the way down from the coupling. Chances are that a tiny deviation at the coupler will be amplified by the length of the screw. The resulting wobbling around might be too much for the WobbleX.

[@baraBober]

You're making this world a better place!

[@want4350]

GREAT Product!! Your store is out of the ws8. Any idea when you will have those back in stock?

[@KhanTigre]

love this design, might apply it to my K1 Max

[@lucio_costa]

Well done. Is there by any chance a project to Creality K1 and K1 Max in the oven???

[@TheRealDoubleT]

Currently building a Trident and will be installing the WS8 when Mellow makes them available. Awesome work.

[@_Xantras_]

Now that you have tackled Z wobble and extrusion variables, what aspect of print quality do you intend to attack ?

[@Chuck-f-s-Sneed]

Fantastic question. Inquiring minds want to know.

[@corgano6068]

The design looks fundamentally found. What I am wondering about is cost - if the wobble x costs $30, how much more would it cost to get a lead screw that is actually certifiably straight vs getting a cheaper one and a wobble x?

[@Sterbo88]

in the rr version, are the pins to put in the printed parts included in the mellow kit? there is no writing in the bom

[@ThantiK]

So, you recreated oldham couplers. This is why we used 5mm threaded rods in the RepRap community instead of 8mm. This way the rod could deflect and not overpower the smooth rods. Everything old is new again!

[@MirageC]

Nope. OldHam coupler deal with wobbling only. These will manage the nut tilting as well as teh wobbling: 5:18.

[@vimdiesel2726]

Can someone with cad skills adapt this to the sidewinder x1?

[@brandonr2827]

Major props on this design

[@cadams6702]

I can't wait for the next episode on Z wobble!

[@MirageC]

hahah! I hope next olympics video is before that episode! lol

[@mikedevil99]

Is it compatible or exists any schedule to do it compatible with ratrig v-minion? thanks. It looks awesome.

[@JannieH]

What am I missing here? From what I see here is that maintaining DOWNWARD contact (between pins and balls) is solely reliant on the HEAVY weight of the bed. Now this may work OK for the type of printer SHOWN HERE, but what about my standard printer with a standard LIGHT weight X gantry? For instance> On occasion when I ask the slicer to "lift" Z say, 0.5mm between moves, what guarantee is there that the X gantry can respond back down again, accurately, consistently and fast enough? These moves are very quick and rapid some times.

[@MirageC]

What is your Z accel value? Earth gravity is 9.81m/s2 (9810mm/s2). If you have accels lower than this value (minus a certain margin for friction factor) you should be good.

[@MirageC]

Nozzle bumping on blobs may be an issue though.

[@ifell3]

Night and day difference for the connoisseur. I take it the ender3 model will adapt to the U30?

[@tiamito92]

is it me or files provided for ender 3 are missing the bottom part? i mean the one above the lead screw brass nut

[@saitavr]

Is there an stl to reproduce this mechanism by printing the case, inserting rods, balls and magnets?

[@saitavr]

found myself - on his github

[@ogpennywise]

Did you try the GE5C bearing for the bed mount first? Or in addition to? I'm trying to figure out what this does differently than the GE5C method that has been around for some time now. Or is this better? But no comparisons. Or am I not on point with what each is supposed to do?

[@pyro1596]

Yep. This looks amazing! Totally gonna machine my own at my local school

[@ClaymateDesigner]

Seriously considering tweaking my ender 3 pro... Thanks for all the hard work...

[@RurouniHiro]

This came to me on my recommendations, and definitely not disappointed as the design more than exceeds its intended purpose. Definitely be worth its pricing, and also good Segway to the shop and pricing. Subscribed especially if you’re working on other projects, I like seeing how they progress.

[@williamtanner9436]

would this work on leadscrews driving other axis of a 3d printer? Thinking of building a printer driven entirely by high helix dryspin leadscrews and nuts. This may negate some vibration from high speed rotation if it could be mounted in other orientations.

[@richardcrook2208]

@MirageC I am at the moment doing the WobbleX for the RatRig Vcore3.1 I have ran into only one issue that i just wanted to let you know about. The holes for the pins in the bed supports.. The back bed support holes for the pins are fin and gold on tight however ones for the front left and the front right are little big and the pins will either fall out or get pushed out from the ball moving around on them. If you could as I don't know how to make or modify this stuff, can you look at the holes size for the back support of the bed and make the holes in the front left and front right the same for the pins. Maybe there is a little difference between them.. Other than that great job and cant wait to see if this is the cure for my z banding I am having..

[@richardcrook2208]

O and also the holes in the wobbleX adapters the holes are little big for the pins also. the will move around and not stay in place also..

[@moodberry]

Your CAD and animation skills are legend. If you are employed, I hope you are working in the R$D department of a 3D printer company. BTW, what kind of printer did you use in this video?

[@aaronstone628]

Where can I buy that ruler at 0:00

[@pashenka19]

You can do all that... or just use the soft coupling to connect the screw without limiting it from above.

[@JonasE-l7q]

Hello, i was wondering how this compares to the more traditional way of using an oldham coupling, have you conducted any tests on that matter?

[@tahubulatgurihz]

great contribution to the world of 3d printing, thank you

[@jrcowboy1099]

Excellent design. However, imo, the biggest thing you could do to reduce wobble would be to use the ball screws properly. Ball screws are meant to be under tension, with a bearing on each end. This keeps them at their proper accuracy, increases resilience to temperature fluctuations, and vastly reduces wobble. Technically, I've heard they can be run in compression, but imo it's a poor idea for the same reasons seen in this video. Running ballscrews without double bearings and expecting minimal runout and maximum accuracy is not reasonable, since that's not using them within their intended use case. That's fine, but I'm just pointing out that might've been (and still can be) a much easier solution to try first.

[@MirageC]

I totally agree with you. A tension installation would require a much bigger and sturdy frame. All of this extra needed rigidity would add quite a few parts and additional cost to the build. I wanted to leverage the low maintenance and high reliability aspect of ball screws while keeping cost as low as possible.

[@jrcowboy1099]

@@MirageC I figured all that would be the case; I suppose it was implied based on 3D printed construction. That being said, a tension installation doesn't necessarily need to be bulky or even "rigid" (in the conventional sense). A tension installation only necessitates a compression support, which could be achieved using an aluminum extrusion on either side of the ball screw, with two metal plates on the end. Of course, I acknowledge that the metal plates part of that is nontrivial for you, and is exactly what you want to avoid. That brings me to the question which was most curious to me: given the cost of ball screws already, why not use a single rear ball screw with two linear rails, kind of like one of those Chinese prefab CNC axes (see a "knee mill" for what I mean)? Is bed sag noticeable with that setup? Sorry for the weirdly late response; KZbin never notified me.

[@MirageC]

@@jrcowboy1099 No problem ;) I really wanted to use ball screws to allow for fast Z-Hop on retraction without eating through the nut like it would on Lead screws. And we are using 3 scerws to allow the printer to self level the bed. We also have dreams of 5 axis printing 😃

[@jrcowboy1099]

@@MirageC If you're really going that route, then I might suggest an architecture improvement I ultimately had to scrap for many-axis CNC mills: use a constant force spring to counter-balance the weight of the bed. This is basically a coil of spring steel; you can find these in drill press' chucks, for instance, used to retract the handle. In this case it would be attached with a pulley to the bed assembly. You could use a counterweight, but accelerations >1G cause issues. This improvement particularly aids large delta-style printers, but could be useful to you. With your anti-wobble mechanism, these might have to be attached to the lead screw nuts. This would allow symmetrical loading of the Z motors in the up and down directions, giving you more bang for your buck in terms of movement without adding moving component weight. Again, scope creep plagues this improvement with complexity and cost increases, but it all depends on how you ultimately plan to use the machine.

[@travistucker7317]

Putting your indicator on the bottom of the z like you do at 5:30 leaves potentisl for the indicator to flex down with the spring. Most likely more than indicator reading

[@thoas8481]

how does this work on the vorons considering they do not contain the top of the z-screw?

[@manueljoshua175]

Hi I saw that it is sadly already sold out on AliExpress. Currently I'm doing an apprenticeship at a German company that mainly produces graphite and carbon products, but in our teaching/apprentice workshop we are sometimes allowed to machine our own products would you mind if I make it myself? If it works out I could even ask if they would be willing to produce it for you in the apprentice workshop. I know they used to take small contracts for the apprentice workshop but right now they don't have any.

[@r-b-k]

I appreciate your effort. Sadly the wobbleX ws8 is already out of stock. Are there plans for a restock soon? Thank you!

[@martinsauer8431]

Question: couldnt you simply loosen the floating bearing? Or add one if none is built in? I mean thats what they are for or?

[@kyon_03]

May i know how should i install this? , i install the old version but whenever my printer z axis goes down the ball pops off

[@Marcushin]

i am thinking ti am thinking to hanging my carriage, put the z motors upper, what do you think?