I will never talk about Z wobbling ever again !

You can get the WobbleX from here ► s.click.aliexp...
WobbleX interface GitHub► github.com/Mir...
After 2 years of looking for the best Z screw decoupling device, I found the ultimate solution.
This video explains the principle behind the WobbleX and demonstrates their benefits through testing.
Thanks to ‪@EvoMotors‬ for the awesome idea!
Thanks to ‪@3DMELLOWPrinter‬ for their collaboration on materializing this project.
Thanks to the ‪@HevORT‬ community for the support.
WobbleX interface GitHub► github.com/Mir...
🍺 SUPPORT ME: / miragec
PayPal Donation ► www.paypal.com...
You want to learn and contribute to the HevORT project?
FACEBOOK ► / hevort
DISCORD ► / discord
www.HevORT.com
Thank you very much!
MirageC

[@dev-debug]

That design is impressive ! I saw your early attempts at fixing the wobble but never saw that solution until now, crazy smooth.

[@MirageC]

Thank you very much!

[@janvostarek4396]

This design Is complete nonsense

[@Chris0612]

@@janvostarek4396 Why?

[@heyspookyboogie644]

It’s kind of amazing how the most minuscule vibration/etc will become apparent in a print. Though it would actually be cool if it could be taken advantage of since sometimes the effect actually looks nice without being part of the design itself.

[@ChauHuh]

Some ceramic printing use this technique.

[@liamventer]

Mirage my first experiments with the Rat Rig V-Core 3 started with an adaption of your very clever wobble rings. Subsequently I developed the VenterMechs (Simpler and less fiddly than Wobble rings and results were just as good - hundreds of people using them) and then I upgraded the Rat Rig I was using as my test bed to the 1P Z design to also eliminate the 'hula' movement, which other designs don't address very well. This design has proven the best yet. The design is open source for non commercial use and I don't sell any parts for it. I wrote a series of articles on the popular Z designs and the issues and fixes for them including the 1P design.

[@msansjr]

I really like mellow's parts, they are expensive, but people say something about getting what you pay for... Congrats on succeeding on creating an awesome product!

[@MirageC]

Thank you!

[@michaelwatson7211]

like straight ball screws?

[@MirageC]

@@michaelwatson7211 will you sponsor them?

[@michaelwatson7211]

​@@MirageC I think I don't really get the problems you are trying to solve, my background is in CNC, the idea of a ball screw deforming the frame is pretty nuts, as is the idea of using a bent screw. Why don't people use a cantilever bed on 4 bearings with a single screw (I've seen this with 2 bearings eg ultimaker but not 4)? Wouldn't it be cheper/ easier to make stiff than using 2 extra ball screws, if you don't care about weight in the frame the whole thing could be welded in thick plate it would be pretty easy to shim it flat once and be done with it. I also don't think you really get any benefit from ball screws over lead screws here, there can't be any backlash becuse the force on the bed is always down, unless there is somthing strange going on with the frame deforming or the 3 screw arangement. Like I said though I don't get the problems, the costs i was using in my head seem to be about an order of magnitude more than you are spending for screws at least, maybe the calculations just all work out different to my intuition.

[@gyrogearloose1345]

Instead, how about starting with high quality ball screws and properly machined bearing ends, along with a rigid frame and precision sliders?

[@benjaminjohnson6476]

I think this is a fantastic example of a good mechanical design to solve the issue rather than a software patch to try and fix it.

[@janvostarek4396]

This Is great example of how not to do it, design Is incredible dumb nonsense.

[@michaelwatson7211]

I just can't believe that it's cheaper/ better than buying straight ball screws or making the frame stiffer. I don't really get this fashion of using proper linear rails and lead screws (all from aliexpress) an mounting the lot to a frame made of jelly. It dosn't seem like good engineering to me

[@Sharpless2]

@@michaelwatson7211 Cheaper? Youve never seen the prices for an actual high quality ball screw + ball nut huh? A high quality ball nut itself can easily costs more than the 3d printer itself. $400 for a ball nut is very common, $750 to $800 for a quality ball nut is normal.

[@sfproject-life3829]

Ball screw + linear rails?

[@michaelwatson7211]

@@Sharpless2 Yeah I meant lead nuts, which aren't that expensive even for OK ones. And thats only one of my points, why buy this stuff if you are going to mount it to a frame so weak it's deformed by an 8mm rod? Lazer cut steel is pretty cheap, tapping holes isn't that hard, avoiding that then splurging on custom components, and rails with a >200kg capacity is building your house on the sand.

[@ResistCircuitResist]

I know you are beating a dead horse, HOWEVER i super appreciate the systematic approach of testing and validating mods. Too many it seems are done in the name of performance, but end up causing more issues that they fixed. I'm currently trying to print as fast as possible with the best quality on ender 3. Lack of time does not allow for the cool stuff like voron.

[@drallersouldust3054]

this kind of problem was already solved for over a century

[@exton132]

I've never once thought about this type of wobble while printing.I just thought the slight variance was due to the unavoidable motion created by moving the print head. Absolutely mind blowing to learn you can get near perfect finishes on printed parts without sanding/finishing.

[@Theexplorographer]

You never thought about it because it's NON-EXISTENT!

[@heavyweather]

​@@Theexplorographerif you use belts ... or a delta.

[@teardowndan5364]

Reminds me of a documentary I've seen many years ago about how some bridges in quake-prone areas decouple their structures from the ground using large bearings in concave cavities to make it self-centering.

[@jooch_exe]

This is a gift to the printing community. Thanks!

[@MirageC]

Glad you like it!

[@UloPe]

So glad I found your channel. This hobby desperately needs more evidence based examination of "known" things. I especially like that you're not afraid to show when one of your hypothesis turns out not to work (as in the extruder gear issue for example).

[@twoheadedpanthr]

I always wondered if you would come back around to the wobble wings you first shared. You're doing some great work in advancing the small things that have big impacts in 3d printing.

[@iansabrewolfe]

Given how not-straight Ender 3 style lead screws tend to be, this is going to be a must have upgrade for anyone running dual Z’s.

[@duc696monster6]

Cause 3 d printers print up down, not in layers?...one whole layer the Z axes don't move .then move what, 0.2mm to get the next layer hight , then the whole layer print z stays still, not moving a 1000of a mm...so this "gimmick" doesnt solve anything, it's a false narrative, nicely presented, but nothing of truth to it..a bit like Ukraine war and NATO excuses...

[@seha2306]

Thanks wobble man, instantly ordered 3 WobbleX. Been fighting with the Z wobble for 3 years on my custom printer. I will soon add a custom mount for the Sparkcube XL.

[@MirageC]

Glad I could help Keep me posted on the results!

[@mbunds]

Eureka! You solved a huge "mystery" problem! The world of 3D printing owe you a great debt! (BTW; VERY cool camera zoom, out from the reflection of the chrome bearing ball; nice stylistic choice!)

[@DrSp0nge]

one of the best 3d printer channels out ther, you and vez3d rly are leading the industry RN!!!! keep it goin!!!!

[@MirageC]

Thank you! I am glad you enjoy what we do 😊

[@Vez3D]

❤❤

[@The_high-commander]

A very elegant solution. I was actually designing something like this for my Ender 3. I used ball bearings from motorcycle parts and the pins from an old DVD writer I had around. I made some prototypes but stopped once I learned that Oldham-type nut exists.

[@babbagebrassworks4278]

Yep, got them on my CNC X1 otherwise all the stepper motor torque goes into bending the screw.

[@babbagebrassworks4278]

A great way to add precision without making everything from cast iron and concrete. Will be checking out those 8mm ones.

[@Sulphur_67]

the sound of the stepper motor slowly moving the screw and it being affected by the screw wobble is satisfying

[@ad5000donnell]

I seriously love following this not only as a Mechatronics Engineer but now I’m torn between a design like this or Voron so hard to decide now

[@EgorKaskader]

It depends on your needs, really. A Voron's quad gantry belt assembly hits its limits in size quicker than this design, and I would say that the pin mod (replaces screws as axles with hardened pins) and GE5C gantry tilt blocks instead of the stock plastic on plastic tilters are almost a requirement for high performance ones. It is, however, much simpler to isolate motion problems and there's fewer of them in the first place as belts don't tend to introduce Z-axis artifacts to nearly this extent. I'm not sure the fixed bed VS tri-screw bed is really making much difference at this scale of design.

[@JonathanYankovich]

Wow, great video. I built a ~2000mm tall bed slinger, and wondered about my artifacts. This is really great. Thanks for making these available to purchase.

[@munzlp]

Z wobble isn't always the sole reason for Z artifacts or Z banding - No matter how much we compensate! There's always others factors coming into play, too.

[@onewa712]

well of course! but like, that was a HUGE reason. It's like seeing your house has mold everywhere, no electricity and also half of it is under the water bc of the latest hurricane or whatever: Sure, fungi and lack of energy are very important, but solving the issue of the flood would greatly improve your house, and also would help to solve the other two things 😆

[@NeoAcheron]

Yup... On my custom Delta printer I had the problem where the bed is static, but still experienced z-banding. Turns out it was the PSU I was using, it had a very very loud fan, that would only turn on when "needed". The fan drew enough power that the voltage dropped, causing the bed to cool a bit faster than the PID tune could kick it back up, and the expansion was enough to cause visible artifacting. Took me months to figure out.

[@onewa712]

@@NeoAcheron daaaaaaaamnnn! Awesome that you found out! Sounds like something you might not find easy at all untill everything else is correct

[@mikejones-vd3fg]

Right, i was just thinking about this, you dont really print while the z is moving up, so that extrusion line widh shouldnt be all uneven because of Z wobble. Well not all of it, thats more likely to due bed temp fluctuations, that will cause the z to change ever so slightly while is shirnking and contracting, something more probable since its happening constantly while on the same layer, whereas a Zrod problem would only show up in layer changes. And in this example here it does seem to be Z wobble since the pattern reflected the rods. But the uneven "bumpy" random lines he was showing arent z wobble, but more likely bed temp fluctuations. Same effect, different reason. Why I think its important to PID tune your bed while the fan is blowing as well so it has that constant cooling to fight against, should make the temperature more consistant.

[@JeffDM]

This channel has a lot of videos on the topic of Z artifacts and even things that look like Z artifacts.

[@MrHeHim]

Me sitting here with a Sermoon D1 (nothing special, just a very sturdy "bed dropper" machine) and no Z wobble, shift, banding from the top of a 310mm print. This is with one of the lead screws having a slight bend. I did the math on deflection, and less than 1mm deflection translates to almost nothing. I also tightened the brass nut screws, then loosened it 1/4 turn to allow lateral shifting but no Z slop. The bed rides on two vertical 20x40mm v-slot extrusions Two things i did, i put the bed all the way down until it bottomed out and loosened the z-rods then activated the stepper motors as to jump into phase. Then i carefully tightened the couplings as to not move them in the slightest, the stepper motor will give a little while being energized. That made the z-banding nearly invisible and you had to really really look for it. Then i did the same thing again but this time i installed a timing belt, making sure they where in perfect phase i energized the motors on and off listening and feeling for any shift. That completely removed any z-banding visible. Note; I'm using a 0.5mm nozzle and regularly print at 0.12mm to 0.32mm layer heights. I always use PTFE grease on lead screws and PFTE oil/grease mix on LM8UU bearings and meticulously square my machine. Which annoyingly exposes any slop in the bearings and makes them slightly noisy.

[@heavyweight6440]

Very great video! I have made the somewhat exact same experiences you talk about in this video. I have an Ender 3 with a single Z-axis screw. I used a anti-Z-wobble constriction from Tekti from Thingiverse as inspiration, designed it completely from scratch from CAD and use it in my printer right now. It works, but as you said at 7:30 you need to fixate both ends of the screw, so the "wobble" will be transferred to the part that is made to take on the wobble. It works very great, even thoug it is 3D-printed and uses magnets instead of little rods. So far, so good. Very cool video, I like it.

[@MirageC]

Thank you! Glad you liked it. Yes, many systems will accomplish the same role. Many ways to skin a cat as they say... My grandfather did anyways ... lol

[@heavyweight6440]

@@MirageC Yes, I had to do some iterations, but since the print is actually 3 piece and quite small, it doesnt take long to print. I sureley had some space trouble because of the extruder stepper motor. But it works pretty good, even though not engineered/desgined to every standard. I hate to go for some shortcuts to safe a bit of space ... no threaded insert but screws directly into the plastic. Works fine if you dont tighten it too much and dont unscrew it and rescrew it every half an hour.

[@patrickboyd8368]

@@heavyweight6440 Have you observed the hardened ball bearings chewing up the PLA layers buffering between the magnet pulling from the other side...in the same way MirageC noticed bearings directly on magnets chewed up the magnet surface?

[@heavyweight6440]

@@patrickboyd8368 Not yet. Right now it all looks kinda good, but I can imagine that after enough print hours the magnets will probably suffer the same fate as they did in MirageC's video. I also am pretty sure that Tekti has developed a different version that doesnt use magnets anymore but 2 dowl pins as guidance for the ball bearing. They have much greater HRC then the neodym magnets and will probably not suffer such a fate. But as of now, it all looks ok. I think they weight of the tray is not great enough to damage it very fast. Otherwise you could upgrade to double Z-Axis on the ender 3 and split the load up on two anti-wobble systems. This doubles the area where force is applied and the surfaces of the magnets will live much longer. The PLA looks all fine as of now. Prints also come out good.

[@flikflak24]

0:04 close. The actual best is to remove the screws all together and use linear motors ( though it can be a bit pricey for off the shelf or hard to figure out diy )

[@Mytagforhalo]

Wow guys, i've been working on designing my own printer. I had long since decided to go with ballscrews and I never considered something like this on a cheap set of screws. Im really glad I haven't ordered anything for the Z axis yet! This is an ingenious solution.

[@larryfroot]

I got so exasperated at looking for the cause of my wobbling and banding that, when I discovered that the second lead screw was going through a malaligned flange attached to the backplate, I lost it. Got unlucky with Creality's quality control (or lack of it). I stripped out the lead screws and modded the z movement to use belts instead, driven by a stepping motor on top of the assembly. It rotates a horizontsl bar via a transmission, which provides the vertical movement for the belts. Worked a treat.

[@valmirrobsonjusto9313]

Hi guy! It's fantastic design. Congratulations for that and for all the development... have you thought about or already have a plan/project for prusas?

[@drallersouldust3054]

I am a welder and I use 1 solid stainless rod to hold and stabilize and 1 threaded for moving up and down nor left and right movement and it fixed the issue, you can also find in most industrial how they already fixed your problem specially with CNC

[@irreverend_]

Biggest issue I have with my Sovol SV06 (and my Ender-3 V2 for that matter) is all z axis related. Not sure how that would fit to either of them but if the 8mm one is compatible, definitely something I'd be interested in when I have a bit of spare money.

[@ThantiK]

So, you recreated oldham couplers. This is why we used 5mm threaded rods in the RepRap community instead of 8mm. This way the rod could deflect and not overpower the smooth rods. Everything old is new again!

[@MirageC]

Nope. OldHam coupler deal with wobbling only. These will manage the nut tilting as well as teh wobbling: 5:18.

[@randomGuy87393]

Looking forward to Prusa support

[@layeredwork]

From the technical point of view I'm totally thrilled. From a users perspective and from Bambu X1C users perspective: It is possible to use it in this printer, too? Do I even need it for this printer? 🤔

[@BigfootPrinting]

Oliver, what are your thoughts on printers using belts instead of screws?

[@MirageC]

I don't have experience with Belted Z, Only seen user mods of them and no official design around them. I have many questions... Will the bed jump up and down as the belt vibrates from XY vibration sent through the frame? How many parts will be involved to lift an 8mm 500*500 bed and keep it up there?.... Somehow... I don't feel the need to investigate these question anymore 😁

[@Soravia]

Belts are nightmare at high speed, unless you can afford to go very wide and tight. The heavier the XY movements, the more vibration will be sent down.

[@sanderveenman599]

@@Soravia so how is it that vorons use them apparantly without z wobble? better figure this out before i order a voron :)

[@Soravia]

@@sanderveenman599 how wide is the belt vs print size for XY and the assembly weight?

[@smorrow]

@@MirageC Kralyn Positron has belted Z if that's official enough for you. Maybe other folding printers have it too.

[@ninjarobotmonk3y]

amazing! I love how much the community help each other out and come up with amazing ideas then share them! Thanks for taking the time to create and put it all into a video :)

[@jangrewe]

It's amazing to see how one person's perseverance to create the absolutely best print results can improve the whole future of a technology. I'm looking forward to see Wobble X adapted by the Voron community soon. ;-)

[@pirobot668beta]

Our most useful tools have came from someone solving a 'minor problem'!

[@qedqubit]

WOW 🤩!!! Practical example of "The Power of Open Source Innovation at it's best" 😀! Are there any use-of-open-source-in-the-industry "Industry Awards Contests" looking for contestants ? -this sure is a Winner 😀 !

[@marsgizmo]

excellent work! 👏😎

[@MirageC]

Thank you very much! I am glad you liked it.

[@aihohuu8883]

@@MirageC I don't see in the archive the file in between Wobble X_TR8 and ZCarriage_WS8 for ender. can you share it?

[@namitu3d]

​@@MirageC When can we expect a version for the Voron 0.2 with Kirigami Bed? That would be an incredible asset for the many 0.2 users

[@boredKiwi]

I did much the same on a precision X-Y table I designed in 1993. The precision-ground NSK ball screw I used was very good geometrically but under high (1G) acceleration against an offset load, the ballnut would skew under deflection of the bracket and subsequently jam on the screw. What I implemented was basically a U-joint around the ballnut. Rolled-thread lead screws are pretty bad for precision but at low acceleration I suspect you could get away with a rubber mount.

[@mjetdevelopment]

Amazing. Your scientific approach really makes me believe everything you say

[@KrustyKlown]

years ago we started with M5 threaded Z Rods .. they bend, mostly eliminating effects of wobble seen with current massive lead screw rods being used today.

[@mamatuja]

This was a nice presentation but I can make system using belts 5 times cheaper and 5 times simpler and yes 5 times better.🤔😉🤘

[@MirageC]

Go for it! cant wait to see your system! 😉

[@lucastonoli3256]

Prove it.

[@darklord14]

You and the community are amazing for such solution!!! I'm especially happy that's also available for common bed slinger's lead screw!

[@mhm203]

This looks interesting wonder if this could be incorporated in the Bambu lab printers? As they are tri z axis like your example

[@mathiashellere8907]

This is so awesome man! Been following this journey for a few years now, and I'm glad to see it concluded

[@MirageC]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@rachellejanssen2655]

I'm planning on buying a bambulab X1 and leave my ender 5 plus as a backup big volume printer, but maybe with this I can extend its life a bit longer! Edit: the ws8 is out of stock, any idea when they will be back? Edit2: I installed the wobbleX, and under the correct amount of light I can see a tiny amount of movement. However, I still have massive Z issues. I gave up on my ender 5 plus, I have a bambulab X1C now and it prints flawless.

[@mercuriallimit]

planning to get into 3d printing, and stumble on this clip, wtf is going on sensei??? damnnnnn, I will have to come back again when I get my machine. Very extensive demonstration! SUBBED

[@Shiruvan]

ngl, its cool to see original idea straight to Aliexpress or Chinese volume manufacture, relieves some of the guilt having to cheap out to knockoffs that may've gone too far, either being off spec or actual cheapness for profit's sake

[@klausbrinck2137]

I haven´t followed the progress after your first video in this topic (refered to at 0:40), well, that must be years ago... But I always know this video here would one day come and find me... I never doubted you are gonna solve the problem, even in a mass-production-scale. I even thought the probel was solved years ago, little did I know about engineering... But that here is on another level! Longevity and good prices, not just a DIY-solution.

[@drumid1881]

Just bought a set after the restock. Can't wait to get them installed!!! I knew as soon as I saw this video how good of an idea this was. Simple yet elegant and solves the problem once and for all.

[@espjim]

WHERE did you buy these? I have been looking every 5 minutes since this video came out and they are never in stock. :)

[@drumid1881]

​@Jim Drew I had to wake up at 9am today to get them as I knew they would sell out fast. If you message the seller and ask for the next restock date this will give you a better time to check.

[@espjim]

@@drumid1881 Thanks... I have left several messages via Aliexpress as well as their Discord channel with no response. :(

[@MirageC]

They are now! Qty100 have been restocked today.

[@drumid1881]

@@MirageC WHOOP WHOOP. grab them while you can

[@cadams6702]

I can't wait for the next episode on Z wobble!

[@MirageC]

hahah! I hope next olympics video is before that episode! lol

[@vazgeraldes]

Funny how I got to precisely the same solution after being inspired by your wobble wings...😀😀😀

[@moodberry]

Your CAD and animation skills are legend. If you are employed, I hope you are working in the R$D department of a 3D printer company. BTW, what kind of printer did you use in this video?

[@blueben1224]

From a mechanical point of view, this is not a vibration problem, it is a problem on DOF (degree of freedom) control. The pin-ball mechanism isolates the DOF constraints from the power screw making it only transmit the motion in Z direction.

[@murdoq3255]

Amazing, he created the problem himself and valiantly solved it )

[@MirageC]

Amazing! isn't it? Oh, by the way, how are your lead screw nuts after 5000 hours of printing?

[@rajgill7576]

An idea to help the magnets last longer: maybe a small hardened steel disc there to stick right on the megnet to act as a bearing race rather than bearing strsight to magnet

[@KhanTigre]

love this design, might apply it to my K1 Max

[@ethansdad3d]

I would have preferred that you kept the old mounts in order to change only one variable, but this design deserves some consideration.

[@TheRealDoubleT]

Currently building a Trident and will be installing the WS8 when Mellow makes them available. Awesome work.

[@GoatZilla]

I solved this by just printing a stiff TPU coupler between the stepper and the threaded rod. It doesn't really compress, but it gives just enough laterally to remove all z artifacts.

[@pashenka19]

You can do all that... or just use the soft coupling to connect the screw without limiting it from above.

[@jrcowboy1099]

Excellent design. However, imo, the biggest thing you could do to reduce wobble would be to use the ball screws properly. Ball screws are meant to be under tension, with a bearing on each end. This keeps them at their proper accuracy, increases resilience to temperature fluctuations, and vastly reduces wobble. Technically, I've heard they can be run in compression, but imo it's a poor idea for the same reasons seen in this video. Running ballscrews without double bearings and expecting minimal runout and maximum accuracy is not reasonable, since that's not using them within their intended use case. That's fine, but I'm just pointing out that might've been (and still can be) a much easier solution to try first.

[@MirageC]

I totally agree with you. A tension installation would require a much bigger and sturdy frame. All of this extra needed rigidity would add quite a few parts and additional cost to the build. I wanted to leverage the low maintenance and high reliability aspect of ball screws while keeping cost as low as possible.

[@jrcowboy1099]

@@MirageC I figured all that would be the case; I suppose it was implied based on 3D printed construction. That being said, a tension installation doesn't necessarily need to be bulky or even "rigid" (in the conventional sense). A tension installation only necessitates a compression support, which could be achieved using an aluminum extrusion on either side of the ball screw, with two metal plates on the end. Of course, I acknowledge that the metal plates part of that is nontrivial for you, and is exactly what you want to avoid. That brings me to the question which was most curious to me: given the cost of ball screws already, why not use a single rear ball screw with two linear rails, kind of like one of those Chinese prefab CNC axes (see a "knee mill" for what I mean)? Is bed sag noticeable with that setup? Sorry for the weirdly late response; KZbin never notified me.

[@MirageC]

@@jrcowboy1099 No problem ;) I really wanted to use ball screws to allow for fast Z-Hop on retraction without eating through the nut like it would on Lead screws. And we are using 3 scerws to allow the printer to self level the bed. We also have dreams of 5 axis printing 😃

[@jrcowboy1099]

@@MirageC If you're really going that route, then I might suggest an architecture improvement I ultimately had to scrap for many-axis CNC mills: use a constant force spring to counter-balance the weight of the bed. This is basically a coil of spring steel; you can find these in drill press' chucks, for instance, used to retract the handle. In this case it would be attached with a pulley to the bed assembly. You could use a counterweight, but accelerations >1G cause issues. This improvement particularly aids large delta-style printers, but could be useful to you. With your anti-wobble mechanism, these might have to be attached to the lead screw nuts. This would allow symmetrical loading of the Z motors in the up and down directions, giving you more bang for your buck in terms of movement without adding moving component weight. Again, scope creep plagues this improvement with complexity and cost increases, but it all depends on how you ultimately plan to use the machine.

[@WestEast3259585]

now thats some wacky engineering good thing there is always someone who wants to reinvent the wheel some good take on adapting and improving oldham coupling to account for angular misalignment

[@SWnAZ]

3hrs in and I can see mellow severely underestimated how quickly those 8mm adapters would sell out XD guess I'm gonna be waiting for these for my trident XD

[@MirageC]

yeah... we are working on it 😉 It's a great problem to have.

[@SWnAZ]

@@MirageC Glad to hear. I look forward to picking three* up and seeing how it works for me!

[@RurouniHiro]

This came to me on my recommendations, and definitely not disappointed as the design more than exceeds its intended purpose. Definitely be worth its pricing, and also good Segway to the shop and pricing. Subscribed especially if you’re working on other projects, I like seeing how they progress.

[@ClaymateDesigner]

Seriously considering tweaking my ender 3 pro... Thanks for all the hard work...

[@marcopmartins]

So Awesome. On my cart now for my Ender 3 Pro. Thank you

[@artyboomshaka]

I don't know about other types of printers but for ender3 types the lead screw is supposed to be free at the top end in order to minimize z-wobble. I wonder how much of an improvement over stock this solution represents in that specific case.

[@Spacefish007]

First need to get my extruder under control.. I see different wall thinknesses on straight walls depending on other features on the same layer. Guess has something to do with heat capacity of the hotend, pressure in the chamber + using a bowden extruder..

[@pyro1596]

Yep. This looks amazing! Totally gonna machine my own at my local school

[@Flapdr01]

This kind of coupling is a great idea. Expensive though, might make a poor mans' version for the leapfrog creatr I got for free.

[@CalvinoBear]

Amazing! Love to see some hardcore mechanical design grace the printing space :D

[@jcenergy2493]

Oldham couplings are a simpler way to do this same thing. Without the drawbacks of needing magnetism to hold things together. I can say assuredly after building many machines, they eliminate ALL z wobble, for $20 a set. Add a plastic pom nut and viola, ZERO z artifacts.

[@mrblackmidigd9577]

the magnetism is for ease of assembly, also oldhams doesn't fix tilting of the nut

[@barabolak]

You're making this world a better place!

[@Rockfantic01]

we will hold you to this

[@802Garage]

Wow this is incredibly cool. Is this a fully new invention or was there already a dual bar and ball style wobble table like this used in industry? Awesome video demonstrating the issue and fix.

[@marvinhagen]

I went with belted Z, no more Z-wobble what so ever and very easy to make.

[@BloodyMobile]

The elegance of this solution already classifies as art. Especially the magnets to pursuade the balls into staying where they are meant to be. And even more, this DOES make "cheap" ballscrews viable, which might otherwise even end up in the trash instead, because their runout is unusable for most applications.

[@Rocketeer6]

Very iimpressive & clever design! Also love how you edit your videos!

[@LateNightHacks]

Superb work! making it available for everyone takes it to the next level 👍

[@tahubulatgurihz]

great contribution to the world of 3d printing, thank you

[@PRO3DESIGN]

I am happy with the belted z lift on the Valkyrie triple z. It eliminate any wobble due to screws.

[@MirageC]

Sweet! glad to hear that. Did you have to install a brake system to secure the bed when motors are not energized?

[@allaboutvisual]

AMAZING!!! Would that support the PrusaMK3 or Mini printers at all? thanks

[@Garloth1]

It seems it would be easier to get rid of the linear rail and just desingn a coupling between the bed and nut that constrains only Z movement and rotation

[@david.foldvari]

The result is awsome, and that is not question about its effect. For me it looks a little bit overdesigned and overcomplicated. If you have a rigid frame, as you have, cancelling the screw wobble doesn't need this complexity. But it is fine and work smooth, so no offense, you've done awesome job and the result is perfect.

[@Youroko11]

Pretty neat. I have not seen that kind of "Z wobble" on my machine, but mine is not as complex as this one.

[@whynotbuildit]

Dude I just saw these on aliexpress and was very curious, great video

[@jjptech]

MirageC " I will never talk about Z wobbling ever again ! " We: DUDE nooo!!! please keep talking about it!!

[@hardrocklobsterroll395]

Cool! Design reminds me of kinematic mounts we use in optics systems.

[@AndrewBoraas]

you have a test indicator you could just straighten the ball screws, its really easy to do in a collet in a lathe over a press but

[@MirageC]

The collet and the lathe are the things I dont have. Would this procedure bring them down to a real 0 radial runout?

[@jacobnassr-low7757]

This is fantastic. Your hard work has paid off so many times over. I'm making my own printer and I've decided to use GT2 belts with a 3:1 gear reduction as opposed to screws for the z-axis, only so that I would not have to do all the work that you put in for me XD. My hope is to completely eliminate z-wobble without compromising on simplicity or friction in case of an outage. When you mentioned low maintenance in this video I almost reconsidered but since I already have my parts I think I'm still going to go along with my plan. If that doesn't work then I know what my plan B is! Merci beaucoup pour vos efforts!

[@jpeero]

you are doing the lords work

[@EternityForest]

We really need to figure out some kind of closed loop position sensor for this stuff and solve all these random inaccuracy issues at once

[@hoffer_moment]

i think my brain is too tiny to fully understand how all of this mechanism works, but the result is definitely impressive

[@corgano6068]

The design looks fundamentally found. What I am wondering about is cost - if the wobble x costs $30, how much more would it cost to get a lead screw that is actually certifiably straight vs getting a cheaper one and a wobble x?

[@Nobody-Nowhere]

The fix is always a new part you need to buy.

[@Max_Marz]

I can only imagine your excitement when fusion released their new dark environment.

[@MirageC]

you have no idea! I love it!

[@JonS]

Nice! I can't wait to try this on my V-Minion!

[@mathiasrennochaves3533]

I came fro your future to say that you will never stop talking about z wobbling

[@barenekid9695]

Did I hear /see correctly then.. there is an 8mm variant for the Typ (ubiquitous) 8mm Z screw ? As in it engages threads or captures a pom nut.. And is of maneagable size to fit a Prusa / clone configuration? Currently seeing only greyed out listings in Mellow pages

[@gokhankarabulut9753]

It is still there, but less frequent / greater distance between the deviations.