Mirror making tools. Basic set up for reverse glass art

[@airbrushken5339]

I have service airbrush compressors for over 30 years here in Australia ... I recommend draining your tank EVERY day if you have used it all day. When I was a spray painter in the USA (started in the early 1960's) the boss had us drain it nightly. He had a steel pan under his industrial pump. I recommend a cookie/or cake tin under the airbrush tanks. Also here in Australia they require and inspection plate on the tanks to check for rust. To be honest in all those years I've only seen two tanks rust through (pin holes) ... but if you follow the manufacturer's maintenance info these machines can last you many years. Great post Paul ... I only wish some of my company's customer would read the instructions...LOL

[@happygilder]

I use mine so rarely I forget to drain it. The last time I got covered in rust water so have been more on the case since then

[@terryschlosser15]

Hey...beau St John here in Florida, america. I've been watching your videos one by one hoping to get more educated on how to do reverse lettering and other computer based decorations on glass and mirrors. Your information and tutorials are quite interesting and very informative. I must say you seem to b quite masterful and there is much I can learn from you. So please keep the videos coming and may I wish good tidings to you and your artwork. Thanks beau St John 😀

[@happygilder]

Thanks Beau I really appreciate it! I’m really glad you’re enjoying the videos. Let me know if you need any help getting started :)

[@kingrat5564]

I love studio set up and tools needed videos. Another very helpful video!

[@happygilder]

Thanks!!

[@ronberlier6695]

Very good overview of your equipment. Greatly appreciate the time in putting this and ALL your other videos together.

[@happygilder]

Thanks Ron!

[@hervebuteau169]

Always fun to see how other are setted up. Thanks for sharing.

[@happygilder]

Cheers Herve! It's not the best set up but it's served me well for nearly 10 years :)

[@nikond90ful1]

Thanks for the video. Great information. Keep safe and stay well.

[@happygilder]

Thanks Colin, I'm glad you liked it!!

[@johnniepassmore5341]

You sir are a gent the knowledge the know how and there to help and answer everyone's questions is priceless. Luv the plotter I got a cameo 4 and wish I paid extra now. As always luv your work as always. ✊

[@happygilder]

Cheers Johnnie! It's certainly an investment getting a good cutter. The lower end ones are still ok so you should still be able to get nice results from it, mine just malfunctioned a lot. I've heard that people still have Roland & Graphtec cutters that are over 20 years old and still going strong.

[@tonywharton5220]

Brilliant video. Thanks Paul.

[@happygilder]

Thanks Tony!

[@DaveCurtis-b3u]

I see you have a scalloped piece of glass behind hind you mounted on a frame how do you attach the scalloped glass to the frame? Thanks

[@Preso58]

That's a nice sandblaster set up. Can you add more media to the hopper?

[@happygilder]

Cheers Mark. Yes it's really easy to change the media. I've used glass beads in the past to remove rust

[@evilsloth2105]

Have you ever used the angel gilding mirror making kits,if so does the chemicals work with the one shot paint or would it be better to spend more and get an air compressor and sand blast a mirror.thanks for all the help and keep up the videos i reallly enjoy them

[@happygilder]

Thanks! I’ve never used the Angel gilding kits because they’re so expensive to buy and to ship to England. I’ve tried chemical slivering a few times but never had any success with it. My method is very easy to do, but the set up cost are higher than the chemical processes

[@stephenbushell4217]

These kits are put together in the US and not available in the UK at present because of export issues (the chemicals used).

[@scotthendricks79]

Do not use one shot on angel gilding. The sulfer content is too high it tarnishes. Use a acrylic. Check my channel for some AG projects. Great product I just ordered a bunch of silver today. Master silver before going full angel gilding. Also letterhead sign supplies makes a backup silver in white. The black backup again has to much sulfer in it. I'm experimenting with alphanamel currently.

[@scotthendricks79]

@@happygilder you can do it, it's that aluminum oxide that screws yah. Gotta use lye to clean it after the blast. Can you get peacock labs there?

[@scotthendricks79]

Oh yah leave about a eighth of a inch clear on all boarders using a mask. Then when you paint it it will cover ALL of the silver and you wont get tarnish creeping in from the sides. Or paint the actual edge of the glass. I like the black surround look

[@786haseen1]

Hello happy gilder Paul sir .... do you have any idea regarding frost ice crystal effect solution ?

[@happygilder]

Howdy! I'm not sure I know what you mean... You can create a crystalized effect by glue chipping etched glass. I have a few videos about glue chipping. Here's a link to the playlist: kzbin.info/aero/PL0aSRxjsVO7VA6nrHa_9AtWMSSc1imK_V

[@786haseen1]

@@happygilder images.app.goo.gl/HFJQSByx4rjwy4v89

[@786haseen1]

Kindly check the link you will know what i am asking about 😊

[@happygilder]

@@786haseen1 Sorry I don't know how that's done. It's a great effect though! From the images it looks like it's a kind of paint...

[@786haseen1]

@@happygilder yes made of epsom salt i think

[@coralrae279]

Thanks for the video, this is my new favorite channel! What blasting abrasive and what kind of vinyl do you use for your mirror projects?

[@happygilder]

Thanks Coral! I use 120 grit aluminium oxide. The vinyl I use is the same type used for making decals. I just search ‘self adhesive vinyl roll’ on eBay and buy whatever is cheapest

[@scotthendricks79]

What kind of hide glue do you use? High clairty pork or reg clarity beef? I just found a new bulk supplier that carries both. I've only used reg. This glue is chipping very strangely. 16% humidity at 103 F and it's the slowest dry I've ever seen

[@happygilder]

I don't know what it's made of. After lots of trial and error I stuck with Liberon Pearl glue. It's never let me down :)

[@scotthendricks79]

@@happygilder ah I found it, brand name threw me off.so expensive, that's why I had to find a bulk source. As it turns out this glue chipped wonderfully it just took a extra 12 hours.

[@scotthendricks79]

@@happygilder that's regular clairty after looking

[@happygilder]

@@scotthendricks79 I've seen that it's expensive overseas. Perhaps it's a UK product because I get it for £10 per Kilo.

[@nokode]

Hi Paul, have you ever tried a smaller nozzle size? Of course it's a compromise between working time and the area you can etch (the line width at the nozzle exit). I use the number 5 and I like the work it produces. Smaller size, longer working time before run out of air. In my case I have a dual-compressor that I built specifically for sandblasting and a 200L reservoir, so I don't have problems with the air volume, but for small compressors you have to play around with the setup. Thanks for your work.

[@happygilder]

Thanks for the advice! I've never tried a number 5 nozzle but I'll definitely get one. I would like a separate tank to attach to the Hydrovane but I haven't got much space left in the shed.

[@kylestevenson5656]

Make a holding tank for compressor bro

[@wyohman00]

Paul, great video. I'm still struggling with the audio levels between sections. The audio while describing the vinyl cutter was spot on but once you transitioned to the cutting software the volume was low and muddy.

[@happygilder]

Sorry about that. As much as I try this is the best I can do. I’ve invested in a good mic but it works differently on the different cameras. Also the headset I use for the software parts isn’t the best

[@davecurtis1468]

What software are you using on your computer? Thanks Dave

[@happygilder]

Hi Dave, I use Photoshop for designing, Vinylmaster Ltr for cutting the stencil, and Lightburn for the laser