Mismatched Guitar Parts And A Hand Rubbed Oil Finish

[@rutiger6901]

You will easily make your customer very content with the finished product that you hand over to him. By virtue of your careful workmanship! But I cannot imagine that you would ever be asked to make a second guitar that copies the body shape of this one!! Thank you for this tutorial. The talking parts of all your demonstrations are comprehensive and the best part. These tutorials could be all audio, NO video and still get the message across just as effectively. The old adage that a a picture is worth a thousand words does NOT apply to guitar stuff!

[@rohankhemraj]

This was a great video. Lots of information in a short format.

[@diegopadovani4942]

Sooo beautiful! Please show to us when completed! The wood is awesome, and the pumice tip is really great! Just have heard, but I couldn't find any video about it, and now you did! Thanks! I´ll try using it with tung oil.

[@jimfromoh8944]

Thanks for the video Chris. Beautiful build, that copper will be spectacular. Speaking from some personal experience, danish oil should only be used as a base coat, and only one coat. While it's meant to penetrate the surface of the wood, it doesn't build and won't fully cure on top of itself. I had to strip two necks after applying a second coat of danish oil and they were still tacky after weeks of letting them cure.

[@HighlineGuitars]

That is exactly how I applied the finish. One coat of danish oil followed by several coats of wipe-on poly.

[@williamjones3616]

Hi Chris. You could convert the holes on the pickup cover into one long slot with some kind of mesh fitted underneath, I think it would look even better than the holes. Very nice natural looking body.

[@ERWebster]

Oh man, in my ideal world Tru Oil would protect as well as polyurethane. I love that stuff, it just brings out the luster, character, and chatoyance of wood like nothing else. I have a process that is somewhat similiar to yours in that I hit it with a thick coat of Tru Oil, but I do the sanding fill with the oil and 800 grit sandpaper. I give that a week or so to set up, then a thin coat of shellac (not being use as a sanding sealer, but instead to insure that the poly and oil play nice, which may not be a problem because it is only one heavy coat of tru oil), sand smooth, and spray on polyurethane from a rattle can. After seeing your process though I wonder how necessary a shellac step is. I have been trying to figure out a way to combine this with transparent color finishes. If it is a single color finish it works pretty well (color -> oil -> shellac -> poly), but anything more than that quickly becomes a complicated mess. Spent about a month re-doing a classic sunburst finish over and over again trying to get it right. By the time I got done, I just wanted to throw it on a fire. Anyways, I am taking your advice to heart and ordering some parts for my first "true" build, everything up to this point has been kits, practice pieces, and re-finishes. I got a 10' 8/4 piece of poplar awaiting the circular saw.

[@elijahmaurer9039]

Finishing abrasives for Turners are also great for slurry filling, and synthetic steel wool are also a good alternative

[@clemmcguinness1087]

You are a deep mine of great information. Thanks

[@dustinkeller29]

Great tip! Thank you.

[@fusion-music]

Yes. I liked this video as always, but just want to say I like your editing style.

[@geoffers99villa]

Love your videos

[@DavidRavenMoon]

Humbucker pickups come in a variety of pole spacing. 49.2 mm is common for neck pickups. A bridge pickup might be 50mm. Fender or tremolo spaced pickup is 53mm. . You have to match your covers to the bobbins! 😃

[@HighlineGuitars]

IIf it was only that simple. My bridge humbuckers have a pole spacing of 53mm. The cover's spacing was 52mm.

[@DavidRavenMoon]

Highline Guitars That’s nuts! Schaller should know better. It probably fits their own pickups.

[@leonarddaneman810]

Fill the holes with inlay? Hope the solid covers improve the Faraday Cage as you suggest.

[@xylonguitars]

hey Chris, thank you once again for sharing your experience and craft so altruistically! I've been meaning to ask you about the machine screws into threaded insert neck connection... do you use thread lock in order to avoid gradual loosening, or just tighten those strongly? best wishes, Evangelos

[@TomL-]

Hi Chris, great episode, I always especially enjoy your videos on finishing and love that you use such a variety of different things that you don't hear about as much. Can you provide a bit more detail in terms of the timing of the application of the pumice? Is the poly fully dry, or still fairly uncured? And after you rub it in and create the paste for the grain filler....how long did you wait before wiping that off? And finally, can you apply more coats of straight wipe on poly after that for further build and protection without it reacting in any way with the pumice? Thanks!

[@HighlineGuitars]

There's no timing really. You just wet the surface with the wipe-on poly, immediately sprinkle on some pumice and immediately rub it in. Then wipe off any excess immediately after rubbing in the pumice and let it sit until dry. Repeat if necessary to fille the pores and grain and after the last application of poly/pumice has dried, you can build up as many coats of straight poly as you want. Make sure you scuff sand the surface before each coat with 400+ grit sandpaper or you can wet sand in each coat of poly.

[@jamescarter4175]

That was interesting!

[@onpsxmember]

You're one of the few that mentions the hazard of the oily rags. The finish looks really nice and smooth. But why the Danish oil? Just for the stain? Cause the filling and toughness comes from the rub on poly and filling is done by the pomace or the fine sanding. Danish Oil is almost 60-80% white spirits (paint thinner/stoddard solvent) and it's good that you're wearing gloves when you apply it. If you do more of those oil finishes with "danish oil", either run your cool ceiling filter or wear your mask, cause in the long run the fumes are really harmful and are often underestimated. You made a good choice for a danish oil with the high VOC. Pomace or Bims is finally something I can get easily here in Germany. It makes me sad to hear about the messed up pickup covers from Schaller-.-.

[@In_MT]

Getting ready to apply finish on my 1st guitar build that's not a partscaster. It's a highly figured swamp ash and I was thinking of using the Danish/Poly combo. Did you grain fill at any point before the danish oil? I know you did a pore fill with the poly finish. I like the open grain look I've got on my KOA GS Mini, so I am leaning towards not doing a normal grain filler step before applying the Danish oil. Thanks for all the great information on your channel!!!

[@HighlineGuitars]

If the wood isn’t too porous, I’ll sand in the oil/poly mix which works up sanding dust that turns into an excellent filler. If the grain and pores are significant, I’ll use a black or brown tinted filler, let it dry, sand it back and then hit it with oil/poly.

[@In_MT]

@@HighlineGuitars Thanks for your help!

[@grantcleveland4506]

I didnt know you were a fellow colorado man!

[@dayuhanspace]

what if i cant find a pumice stone powder? any alternatives?

[@HighlineGuitars]

I am not aware of any. Pumice mixed into oil with a little poly makes a great grain filler. You can get similar results substituting fine wood dust for the pumice.

[@dpdupuis5]

I too really enjoy doing hand rubbed oil finishes. To me there is nothing classier looking on an instrument.

[@JohnAdams-xc5yk]

They are great as player guitars if you don't care about value

[@TheVINMAN531]

CAN YOU PAINT OVER IT?

[@HighlineGuitars]

As long as the oil was completely cured and the surface wiped down with a cloth dampened with acetone to remove any oil residue you could paint it.

[@dalemartin7886]

VINCENT GUARINO why would you paint over an oil rubbed finish on a beautiful hardwood? If you're going to paint why not use something like poplar, sand, primer and paint.