Mission Matterhorn. Climbing the Hornli ridge unguided for the first time.

I hope you enjoy this VLOG. We continued or Alpine mountaineering expedition by driving to Zermatt, camping a couple of days and trying to climb the Matterhorn.
Here is how it went.

[@speedpresidium]

Nice video. Appreciate that you share a video were you turn around to be able to come back another day.

[@chrisjay5702]

Good decision making to pull the plug when you did. I wouldn't agree when you say guides drag their clients up to the top. I summited with a guide and in no way did he drag me up - they expect you to climb skilfully and swiftly. Certainly one of the most beneficial aspects of having an IFMGA guide on the Matterhorn is for the route finding - I would have struggled with that and as you know time is of the essence on the Matterhorn! Great vid though mate - hopefully you'll be out there again soon (I'm out there doing the Eiger this year). Definitely use the cable car next time! 🙂

[@Azena63]

Great to see your video! I am the chap you chatted with briefly toward the end of your journey up to the Hornli Hut the day before. Yes, it's a 2.5 hour hike just from the Schwarzsee cable car terminus so the trek from the bottom of the Valley makes it a very long drag indeed - especially when you have the added weight of all your gear to carry along with essentials. A great video and awe inspiring for non-climbers like me ! Best of luck guys, good to have met you !!

[@jamesoriel2131]

Well done guys, killer video as well, from the aussies camping next to you

[@deribrown]

Well done on keeping yourselves safe lads. Too many get summit fever and end up in trouble.

[@GuyGabriel-eu7hb]

Nearly every Matterhorn vid I've watched has the climbers ascending wearing gloves, no doubt because of the cold. That's something I'd have to get used to.

[@daviddavisrn]

Nice video. Thanks for posting.

[@tecmissle9256]

7:29 :D propa !! Top lads good job !!!

[@khrumkashan6954]

Thank you for sharing

[@kvpc11]

Great video! It is important to show the less than glamourous parts of keeping your safety as a priority. Quick question- what length of rope did you use and did you feel it was sufficient? Im looking at heading there in the near future for a solo climb and was curious about the prefixed anchor spacing and what length of rope was sufficient for the abseil down. Thank you!

[@arsonsteeps]

Don’t rope up if there’s no point. Just move together quickly until you are ready to place solid protection. Either use gear or don’t. Thanks for the video!

[@thegravityshed6689]

Thank you for the advice. We are going back this season and that’s our plan. Move fast and only rope up where we absolutely need to.

[@tudorrees3921]

Top effort, when is the re- run mate?

[@TheLordsaviour]

Real nice film

[@chrislock4603]

Brilliant Wayne, what a trip!👍👍

[@user-ky4jp8jf2p]

Leave an hour before guided parties go up? very cool vid btw!

[@STURDYvids]

Not possible. Hörnlihut is getting locked every night and the guided tours are the first ones allowed to leave

[@user-ye5fz4il5e]

Whats the culture around not being guided? Are guides pissed at you for being there? Are you supposed to have a guide? I'm aiming to climb in a day this July and am trying to sort through the details Thanks for the video.

[@riccardograsselli2152]

Guides are for people who either don’t know the trail, or for those who aren’t expert nor does have much experience. If u’re experienced enough u can do almost everything by yourself

[@lindsayrogers6690]

I soloed the Hornli in the mid 80’s (I am officially older than God now 😂). For the standard I was climbing to at the time it was easy for me. I was berated by a couple of guides but I think they were just pissed off that I wasn’t paying them.

[@RogerBeaudoin-cz9xv]

There are many places on the route with loose unstable rock. Most unguided climbers don't know the proper route and make it more dangerous for guides and their clients. Many have been killed by falling rock from above kicked down by those off the correct route.