Mistakes were made - Axel drama

[@TailgateGarage]

Where can i find a women like this. So talented and genuine.

[@philiphartley8823]

Taper roller bearibgs such as these have to be tightened to a specific tightness to allow correct running. This is a specialised job for an expert really.

[@AllThingsMech]

Great progress, Robin! I'll echo the others in that your pinion bearing, being a tapered roller bearing, wouldn't be held in place by anything once the flange is removed. I bet if you were to reach in and grab the other one it would come out as well, so that's nothing to worry about. However, new bearings are really cheap compared to the carnage they can cause if they fail while you're driving, so I'd definitely get a new set of bearings and races just for peace of mind. As long as you set the pinion preload correctly when you're reassembling, you should get many years of good service out of those diffs and axles. The scratches in the pumpkins look like scoring from the manufacturing process so I wouldn't worry too much about that, and the small BB looks like leftover welding slag as others have said. Awesome build so far, keep it up!

[@overlandingrobin]

Thank you for the input. I’ll definitely replace all the bearings now that the diff is out. The taper rolled bearing on the other diff seemed much more tight. I had to pry it off. I believe the ball is indeed welding residue, also seems very porous. I’m pretty sure if I hit it with a hammer it will crumble. It’s good to hear the scratches are just from manufacturing. It also doesn’t really seem like anything else could be touching the inside.

[@billweston6579]

You, will need to get a diff specialist to reset the pre load and lash. As well as adjusting the contac pattern of the crown wheel and pinion. Can cause catastrophic damage if they aren’t adjusted properly. Your doing a wonderful job restoring you’re truck. Well done!

[@overlandingrobin]

Yes ill definitely have someone with experience to do or do it together with me :)

[@wisejacker]

@@overlandingrobin , Spend some time watching ( possibly already on KZbin ) the setting of the diff gears by an experienced rear end tech,...I put a limited slip Mazda GSL diff into a 79 Mazda rear end years ago at my house,...You have to use bluing lacquer on the gears ( Hypoid type ) to see how the two gears touch each other, and to get the right contact patch between the two, Also you need to use a torque wrench to measure the pre-load pressure of the gear set from the drive shaft input. There are shop manuals that show the torque specs for rear end diff's on all cars. It's not as hard to reassemble and set the gear pressure on a diff as one would think it would be.

[@wisejacker]

Also,..Think about doing an upgrading with the diff at this point with an electronic locker rear end on both ends of the vehicle,..You will need to lock out the diff's,... when you need to travel thru or get out of deep loose snow or soil and mud,..trust me on this,...

[@sw5334]

@@wisejackerthese axles already have diff locks. Those are the cogs she showed in her hand. They are manually locked with a lever in the cab.

[@wisejacker]

@@sw5334 That's good,..When people that don't know about driving in off road conditions,..they don't know that auto differentials are only good when on a solid surface like asphalt or cement, deep sand , snow or mud , is difficult to get out of without the help of locked axles.

[@owenjohns6301]

Nice to see progress being made. The method I've used for those seals is not to try fitting a big bolt, but to drill a small hole and put a sheet metal screw in that and pull on the screw. It works sometimes.

[@overlandingrobin]

I can try that next time :) thanks for the tip

[@augustofidelbarrenodiaz5983]

Hi Robin it is a hevy duty you are doing, glad to see that the part that fell did not broke and your foot did not hurt, nice job disassemble the differentials hope that won't be so expendive

[@materialdialectics]

I find this all very relatable to how I work haha.

[@3579jh2]

Amazing work! Glad you are in a shop. It never fails, my vehicles will breakdown in the middle of winter/sleet season and I have to wear layers under my dcu coveralls and use a tarp as a make shift tent. Replace part I pick off, from a pull apart and get things moving again. Much respect to you ✌️

[@VintageWanderer]

Good job! I can totally relate when I work in my cars by myself! Cheers.

[@overlandingrobin]

Thank you! :D

[@tobtnosike9433]

Perfect! You was so very glad are makes car and truck built so perfectly it never fails, my vehicles is very beautiful like you so handsome, its fixed so well. I have wear my overalls before enjoy with you about mechanic with my jobs. Thanks for working with truck's part. Love you! Cheers, Robin! Lol

[@anadin0612]

Thank you Robin. Good video. Please remember, stay safe.

[@keithbarber9004]

Hi Robin Another great video. Lots of conflicting advice from people who want to help. For what it's worth, I would say have the diffs checked and if necessary rebuilt professionally. It will give you peace of mind. 😊👍

[@tyskStefan]

The cone & rollers of a tapered roller bearing are usually not connected to the cup in any way, so they can just fall out like that after you removed the flange nut. But the play is a good indicator for a bearing that is done for or not the right amount of preload, so the bearing was either already dead or on its way out , like you said. Glad that drop didn't destroy something and the progress is looking good! edit: that small ball out of the front differential looks a lot like it's out of a ball bearing and has been mangled by the gears. although I'd expect all other bearings to be tapered roller bearings as well and not ball bearings, but I don't know anything about C303 diffs... The commenter that said it looks like a welding pearl could also be right. As long as the gears all look fine, it doesn't matter anyway and you don't need to worry.

[@overlandingrobin]

There are no ball bearings in the diff. I also checked with the manufacturer of the bearings and they also said the ball isn’t coming from them. I think it might be what the other guy recommended, a welding splatter. It also feels kinda porous. Thanks for all the info :)

[@chestertownelectric6290]

You are a total maniac!! (In a good way) I wonder what it would be like to be inside your brain for a day. Keep up the good work!!!

[@overlandingrobin]

Haha it’s always very busy inside my head 😅

[@tobtnosike9433]

2:19 I love robin was crouching knee so wobbly because that red heavy this truck's part so perfect and robin was very so brave about loves cars when robin loves crouching knee to makes built this truck thinsgs so easy like my beautiful school Carew Academy has crouching knee so wobbly with this red part things about metal things of topics are working social skills about car part things so helpful and gorgeous. I wish you and support of you, Robin! You're a gorgeous! 👍🏾

[@besteven]

You could use a small hoist, either mounted to the ceiling or on an adjustable, movable bar--like an engine hoist. It's heavy stuff!

[@overlandingrobin]

I’ll look into that, thanks for the tip

[@laportlaportlaport]

I have two old ceiling mounted hoists, I use them to hoist up anything in my shop's attic for storage, even complete engines, and I've used one to lift up a boat when painting the hull. It's a very good tool indeed. It's on its own steel beam, so it can be moved around too from one side of the shop to the other.

[@sw5334]

@@overlandingrobinjust for future when you needed to remove the third member you should have lowered the forklift closer to the ground and then rolled the axle so the third member wouldn’t fall so far.

[@jasonjones5213]

Good job on the seal, Sometimes that is the only way to get them out.Good idea flushing everything out.That sand is torture on metal parts.

[@overlandingrobin]

Yes it was so filthy! The oil was greenish when it came out😅 I was surprised these seals could get so stuck

[@petercroft9895]

Ouch, the skin pinch made me wince, been there, done that. Plummeting onto the floor was probably more than enough to pop that bearing out, so I don't think that's anything to worry about. Just replacing the input flange bearing will not affect backlash or anything between the crown wheel and pinion, so that is perfectly safe to do yourself. If you are going to pull the diff center apart yourself and/or pull the pinion out, pay extremely close attention to the location and order of any shims - these aren't impossibleto rebuild at home but it is very easy to get it wrong. If you're going to have a workshop rebuild them it's probably better that they aren't pulled apart further so that they can see things the way they were, rather than a box of loose parts.

[@overlandingrobin]

I will very likely have them rebuild by someone or rebuild them with someone who knows how to do this. I’ve never done it before and don’t want to mess them up

[@chestertownelectric6290]

You should get a differential specialist to service it, as the way that the gears mesh is very important.

[@overlandingrobin]

Yes definitely, or do it with someone who knows diffs, I don’t want to mess them up

[@IScat-w2m]

If that bearing is loose, that means your drive, ax, where the trash of bolts on is going to be very loose, that bearing has to be replaced.You want those bearings nice and tight

[@brucejohnson3905]

Differential assemblies are one of the few things you should take to an experienced shop to have rebuilt. There are special tools and precision measurements needed to resemble. You could do it yourself, it is just a mechanical assembly. But doing it your self increases the chance of it braking in the future.

[@overlandingrobin]

Yes I will either have it done by someone experienced or rebuild them together with someone who knows how to do this :)

[@Cheva-Pate]

Hi, this is fun to watch, i did this with a Volvo Valp in the eighties, and did some crazy stuff on the way, you were a little bit eager when you disassembled the axle, first you measure the tolerance with a dial test indicators what gap you have between the pinions gear and the sun gear, before you take it apart! You wiggle it back and forth and measure how big the gap are without turning the driveshaft Then when you reassemble the axel you start with the same shims and the goal is to get the same tolerance as it was before you took it apart! This is the most important thing when reassemble the axel, then it’s just put in new bearings and gaskets and super cleaning every thing. Now you already had done this so its just a note! Good luck with your project!🇸🇪

[@reallynotpc]

Do those axles have breather tubes like Land Rovers? When fitted, they allow for the air inside getting hot in use and then avoiding sucking water in when you go wading and the air inside the axle cools. Maybe Volvo built better quality differentials than Land Rover did.

[@micheltebraake7915]

Je bent in ieder geval niet bang om te sleutelen. Alles is zwaar bij zo'n 4x4. Zoek een specialist om de differtieels af te laten stellen, anders zijn ze na 50 jaar zo kapot. Succes ermee.

[@overlandingrobin]

Komt goed! Laat het sowieso door iemand met ervaring doen. Differentiëlen weet ik echt niks vanaf

[@rennkafer13]

That washer is called an "oil slinger", it goes in front of the bearing and behind the seal. Not uncommon on differentials. Also, to echo a few others, once you take the driveshaft yoke off of the differential, you will need to reset the pinion prelude (even when using the old bearings, which probably weren't bad, they just slide on). That's a job best left to a professional with the proper tools.

[@overlandingrobin]

I’ll definitely have someone do that for me or do it together with someone who knows how to do this. This is very much outside of my knowledge & I don’t want to mess up my diffs

[@rennkafer13]

@@overlandingrobin ya, messing those up would get very expensive. If you can find someone who will show you how it's done, that would be great. It's not really all that difficult to do, but it does have to be done precisely, and with a couple special tools.

[@clivematthew-wilson7918]

If you're going to drop something that's heavy and fragile, put some old car tyres underneath to absorb the shock.

[@overlandingrobin]

I didn’t plan on dropping it 😅 I managed to carry one but let the second one slip

[@clivematthew-wilson7918]

@@overlandingrobin Nobody plans on dropping heavy car parts :) But it happens, so old tyres are your friends who will protect your precious 'third member'. BTW, most English-speaking mechanics would call the 'third member' a 'differential'(diff). The part you removed from the rear axle would be called the 'diff head'. The slang term for a 'differential' is 'pumpkin', because it looks like a pumpkin. But you are pronouncing it 'Bumpkin' (with a B). A Bumpkin is an old English word for "a person from the countryside who is considered to be awkward and stupid." I hope I don't sound too critical. I absolutely love your channel and the work you are doing. I own and drive a 1950s van. :)

[@timhayes1199]

The scratches might be from the manufacturing process, are they on the top of the case also? The bearing that fell off the pinion shaft is just slid onto it and is tightened pretty much like a wheel bearing, if it is sloppy on the shaft or the bearing is worn check the pinion as well.

[@overlandingrobin]

Thank you! I will do that. I suspected the bearing to be bad as it just fell out while I had to pry the one on the front diff off.

[@ByakaAnkka]

I belive the pinion bearing is supposed to come out just like that, the flange is the thing that is holding the bearing in place. It has to get tightened in a specific way with pre load gages and other special equipement. You can do it yourself but you got to get the service manual with the torque specs and preload specs etc. Or take it to a specialist.

[@IScat-w2m]

Slop in the baring's cough that crouching.Because the bearings are so loose that it has a lot of globe.Check all the bearings and if they're loose replace them

[@details2378]

"Kut" 😂😂😂

[@tommcl8548]

👊👍

[@CTTarantula]

Geweldig maareh volgende keer dat je een differentieel wil demonteren beter de flens er weer losjes op zetten en de moer paar slagen geven dan de as op n bok leggen en met een kraan bvb de motorkraan het differentieel omhoog trekken onderwijl kloppen op t as lichaam geven om m loste krijgen... dat doen mn collega's in de tankwerkplaats ook... we hebben dan wel een 5 ton kraan ter beschikking 😊 Daarnaast ook n tip doe dit niet in je eentje... maar diepste respect dat je dit gewoon ff doet.. 😎 Groetjes Arjan Hansen

[@overlandingrobin]

Ja volgende keer idd om een helpende hand vragen 😅 soms iets te eigenwijs

[@petermiddo]

I'm not sure why you didnt use teh same puller you took the flange off with. I'm not convinced you'd have got it in there and maybe you tried off camera, but still not sure.

[@overlandingrobin]

What do you mean? Use the puller for what exactly?

[@TrueFawkes]

Keerringen verwijderen vind ik ook altijd ontzettend vervelend werk. Je bent goed bezig en die differentieel klokken zijn onhandig te dragen. Maar prioriteer alsjeblieft je veiligheid voor het maken van het shot.

[@madmaxinthunderdome]

Scratches may have been caused by the vehicle being high centered on some big rocks and all the weight of vehicle was sitting on top of the dif with wheels off of the ground. When they were trying to get it back off the rock or log.Other than that there's no other way the scratches could have been made. Unless like u said Volvo did it.

[@overlandingrobin]

Apparently they’re from grinding after they put the housing together. A few people suggested this and also other C303 owners confirmed, so that’s good to know :)

[@davidbaker3270]

look up the out fit on you tube they have done a six wheel drive one into a motor home he striped the axels and also found scraping that shouldn`t be there he rebuilt with all new bearings and seals might get a few pointers from his build and he hadn`t got all the facility's you seem to have your doing a real nice job and people around you must have experience with these trucks as the blue one isn`t yours is it ? and use the engine crane to lift bits you cant lift .legs arms hands work better in life if never broken lol

[@IScat-w2m]

Otherwise if you do not replace the loose bearing until you're gonna have a lot of noise and a lot of stuff in your rear Axel

[@overlandingrobin]

I will have all bearings replaced just for peace of mind :)

[@Soggstermainia]

Love the content but cannot say this enough, please wear safety glasses!

[@overlandingrobin]

Will do

[@wtftolate3782]

Great work! Definitely wife material.🙃

[@TrueFawkes]

Betreft de krassen in de behuizing, zijn het echt krassen? (met de nagel te voelen). Anders kan het door de stroom van olie komen die dat gedeelte continu schoon wast.

[@overlandingrobin]

Veel mensen denken dat ze zijn gemaakt toen de Assen in elkaar werden gezet

[@Marshaluranus]

member hehe

[@mostcom]

I can't watch any longer. You are scaring me. At least wear safety glasses and gloves.

[@ArjanGroe]

Yeah, I’m going to second this. Nothing wrong with wearing working gloves, safety glasses and tucking loose hair up/in. But hey… not my body.

[@overlandingrobin]

I don’t super like to wear gloves when working with oil as they’ll just absorb it. Also not sure for what I’d need the glasses in this instance as I’m not grinding/drilling into anything. Only thing that required a power tool was the flange nut