Mitsubishi L200 (MK3 K74) Head Install & First Start (4D56) -- Part 5

This is my 2003 Mitsubishi L200 project. It’s a K74 with a 2.5TDi engine, manual gearbox with locking rear diff. I bought this vehicle as a non runner and will be getting it back into working order. Join me for the revival.
This is a list of affiliate and non affiliate links to the parts I used for the repairs:
Coolant -- ebay.us/IHf2qR
Oil Filter -- ebay.us/q03QOl
Fuel Filter -- ebay.us/TSy273
Oil 5L -- ebay.us/7elX4y
Timing Belt Inc Tensioners -- ebay.us/sHzukW
Aux Belts -- www.eurocarpar...
Crank Bolt -- ebay.us/y38gpQ
Front Oil Seal -- ebay.us/Fxrtnv
Cam Cover Seal -- ebay.us/bSDfoS
Water Pump -- ebay.us/WsCmkN
Radiator -- ebay.us/OmdRIf
Thermostat -- ebay.us/O6ejaK
Coolant Temp Sensor -- www.milneroffr...
Head Assembly -- www.lymmengine...
Glow Plugs -- ebay.us/kZ12sE
Injector Washers -- ebay.us/8DIZ4f
Sealant -- ebay.us/XfwccI
Injector Tester -- ebay.us/2PT0qb
Upper Ball Joints -- ebay.us/qt8qqU
Battery -- www.eurocarpar...
Stack Pipes -- www.milneroffr...

[@jackanderson6918]

Absolutely brilliant from video one to the end of this!! Full of info and shows every detail to remove and reinstall the whole head, belts and everything between! Love it cheers for all the help mate! Saved loads of time and money 💪👍

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

Glad it was a help!

[@paulminshall7453]

I find if you wire it up to a decent starter plugged into the mains it will start pretty quickly!

[@moviesshortened3826]

Can you explain a bit more

[@harwoods11]

On rewatching these videos I wondered if you flushed out the radiator and cooling system? What did you recommend to use as coolant? Ready mix or "waterless coolant" or perhaps distilled water/antifreeze mixture?

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

The radiator was new so didn't flush that out, I would have flushed the block but the hosepipe didn't reach! It's been absolutely fine though

[@harwoods11]

Did you use a std head gasket set? Or the triple steel type? I generally use something like "Wellseal" or similar when I fit these heads but I notice you didn't... Any reason why? Cheers

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

Theoretically flat joints such as head to to block should be flat enough not to need sealant. Of course how flat is flat is an impossible question to answer, would depend manufacturing tolerances for both components. As for my reason not to use sealant on the joint, the FSM doesn't call for it, the head manufacturer didn't specify it and if the joint leaks without it, you'd want to get the head skimmed and the block decked. Really it's down to personal preference I suppose.

[@ludo9234]

Ive used wellseal many times' and wouldn't use anything else. I'd certainly use it on this job.

[@tenere7005]

Muitos bons videos! Por quanto ficou essa reparaçao?

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

Thanks, not too long, I didn't do all in one go, just removing the head and refitting the new one I think maybe combined 6 hours. Cleaning parts, testing and some painting took maybe 3. Easily you could do the job start to finish over a weekend.

[@sometunes2392]

Hiya bud, great videos. I’ve watched all the parts as I’ve got a 2005 L200 with the 4D56 engine and it needs the head gasket replaced. Have you got any tips and advice on where’s best to get parts. Cheers 👌👍

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

I think I linked all the parts I used in the video description, hope it helps!

[@kenlamden303]

Great videos thanks. I'm not a mechanic but watched for ideas because my 2003 L200, K74 with 2.5 TDi engine has just had a reconditioned engine fitted and it's not starting. It fires up but then dies away. The garage seem to have run out of ideas. Can you suggest likely causes of the problem please?

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

It could be a pin hole or split hose in the fuel lines/pick up pipes. If these have a hole, the fuel pump will suck air and the injectors won't have enough pressure to fire.

[@markhewitt6406]

Good vids, technically an 03 head should be tightened with an angle gauge. Having done this... the gasket went again :-/ I'll be using the three stage torque way when I replace it!!

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

Think it depends on the bolts and the head manufacturer, I doubt there's much in it. Using an angle usually gives you a clamping load closer to the desired value but there's not much in it. Did you retighten the head bolts after a few hundred miles?

[@markhewitt6406]

@@ToolTimeWithTom I got the angle info from the geniune Mitsi manual for Euro 3 engines. I had to put a new head on mine and did it the way you did, no issues. Then it spun number 4 big end, another common issue so new crank etc. Angle tightened bolts and double checked after a thousand miles and redid valve clearances, changed oil etc. These aren't vehicles for the faint hearted are they!!

[@dogrider64]

Thank you very much for the videos: it's like we did it together!!!! merci beaucoup, super tuto j'ai pu changer la culasse de mon L200 sans difficultés grâce à tous vos supers conseils!

[@brendanukveteran2360]

Well, I want his baby...he's brilliant...might be a problem with that though considering I am a married hetrosexual male...

[@MissChristineC1990]

How did this 4D56T hold up after the head gasket change?

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

Still going all okay! About 5k miles into it

[@MissChristineC1990]

@@ToolTimeWithTom the engines don't need that one final twist after hitting the 125nm do they? You know a final 90 degree or 120??

[@brendanukveteran2360]

If and when I win the lottery, I am going to set you up in your own business - pay you to teach apprentices. - fact

[@Conflictofinterest902]

Sorry to keep bugging you, but I followed your instructions and successfully changed my cylinder head. I am very grateful for that. However, I keep getting an engine management light come on when starting from warm. The error code says timing control valve but I don’t know what to check. Thanks

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

Awesome, good work! Timing control valve is fitted to the pump, you could check the wiring to the plugs on the pump for any issues. It can also be caused by a blocked or restricted fuel system, have you changed the fuel filter recently?

[@Conflictofinterest902]

@@ToolTimeWithTom yes, I recently changed the fuel filter whilst doing the head.I’ll investigate and also see if there’s any issues with the fuel filter side of things as well (although I’m not entirely sure what to check lol) I really do appreciate your help, this thing is making me ill

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

If the wiring is okay and the filter is okay it would either point to the timing of the pump being out or the fuel pump needs adjusting or replacing I think but I've not had personal experience with the issue.

[@Conflictofinterest902]

@@ToolTimeWithTom thank you for you expertise. I owe you a drink

[@Conflictofinterest902]

@@ToolTimeWithTom I took the diesel filter off and it was half full. I don’t know why it would do that, but I primed it again and will see what happens. Thank you

[@jaheimwilliams9768]

What is the torque specs for the head bolts

[@home2roots]

Fantastic series on the L200👏 Thank you. The videos have hjelper me alot! Greetings from Norway

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

You are welcome! Glad they helped

[@masaniellobalzano]

Great! For a moment i was afraid you forgot the phase sensor.😅 Good job

[@etats-unis7638]

GOOD JOB 👍👍👍

[@brendanukveteran2360]

I just can't get enough of his calm and clear instructional technique...man he is wasted: should be a well paid instructor

[@pawelwegelewski5342]

great video very helpful

[@adamfletcher4262]

I agree with using shell oil its really good oil very well known in the diesel world i also agree with using fully synthetic but i prefer 5w40 especially in older engines. Indirect injected diesels definitely produce more heat than direct injection especialy when towing and working hard. great video nice work

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

Yeah not had an issue with shell and have been using for a long time, has just become a case of stick with what you know. I can't imagine these engines are that fussy regarding grade, think they're probably just happy to have a change.

[@harrykirchhoff7016]

Sehr Gute Arbeit.

[@LionsFilms]

Hello and thank you for the great series of Videos! Can you provide a closer look at the sheet to torque down the head ? unfortunately i can decypher it too well from the video and that is quite an important part :) would be great! Thanks.

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

Torque for standard bolts is 120Nm, basically start on the middle of the head and evenly work your way out to the ends. Middle two bolts first, then the next pair forward, then the next pair towards the cab, so on and so forth until you get to the edges.

[@verdw6587]

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@brendanukveteran2360]

Good taste in music too

[@Conflictofinterest902]

When you torque the head down, do you go over and over each stage ? I ask because if I torque down a head, by the time I go back to the first bolt, it’s looser than when I torqued it

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

Yeah this is normal. For the first stage(s) it doesn't matter so much as the loosest bolt from the previous stage will have additional torque applied to it first. Absolutely on the final stage go through the order 2-3 times to make sure all the bolts are at the final required value. I would also suggest you run through the final stage value again after 500-1000 miles as from experience some will have lost their torque figure from the engine heat cycles. After this second check they're normally pretty stable

[@Conflictofinterest902]

@@ToolTimeWithTom very much appreciated my friend

[@itsnottheturbo]

Great video matey

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

Thanks! Took a bit of time to edit this one, I think it takes longer to edit the videos than to do the actual work!

[@itsnottheturbo]

@@ToolTimeWithTom i do appreciate it man, I'm looking to get a k74 in the new few months, I'm guessing the bottom half is solid enough?

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

Seems to be happy enough, I've done about 400 miles in it since the new head install. The headbolts needed to be re-torqued which is normal but easy enough. From what I can tell K74's are generally unreliable but the parts are super super cheap and relatively easy to fix. I might do a video on the costs, purchase price, part costs and the total price. Would that be useful?

[@mc02fly28]

@@ToolTimeWithTom good video, thanks, I’ve just done the same job on mine although I’m having a few more issues with the fuelling.

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

@MC02FLY Does the fuel filter housing keep losing pressure and need re-bleeding ?

[@brendanukveteran2360]

I feel so satisfied by his sucess...I have spent many hours outside, at night in the cold and rain trying to fix my old bangers...I just LOVE it when it comes right like this....I want his baby more now!!! 😇

[@bearnecessiteespolio5359]

Hey , love these videos. Is there anyway to prevent this problem? (Engine overheating, causing the cylinder head problem). I'm a bit of a newb at doing home mechanics but keen to learn. Mine is a 2005 k74.

[@ToolTimeWithTom]

I'm not sure there's a concrete answer, I don't think the 4D56 is a well designed engine. You could increase cooling capacity with a larger radiator than standard, it does seem to get to temp very quickly compared to other diesel vehicles I've owned, at 0 DegC the L200 seems to get up to temp after about 2 miles, my diesel golf on the other hand will take 8+ miles in the same conditions. Any increase in cooling capacity I think would help.

[@harwoods11]

​@@ToolTimeWithTom The cooling system capacity on the 4d56t is far less than say.. a Discovery 2.5tdi. That's why I fitted a dual core radiator to increase coolant capacity.