ML Brake Booster

[@RichManPoorMotors]

You Tube recently change the way they monetize my content, My channel needs 1,000 subscribers, so it would be Awesome if you could show support to my Chanel by watching and SUBSCRIBING to my channel if you haven't already done so.Monetizing my videos allows me to invest in equipment make more videosMany thanks for your support, regard Rich Man😀

[@BoqnSlavkov]

My friend can you tell me or give me a link to buy this seal kit

[@RichManPoorMotors]

There is a link in my description

[@unaffiliatedperson]

thank you for posting, i have the same hiss, i gotta do some investigation and see if the seal is bad or just loose vacuum line.....

[@RichManPoorMotors]

It is most likely the seal but thanks for your comment

[@jeremysaunders9916]

Could you forward details of seal, have exactly the same issue with a 2004 w163 2.7. Would be much appreciated 👌

[@chrisc1510]

can you advice if vacuum line connector at vacuum pump needs to be tight fit? I have wobbly connection and I feel O ring is missing inside this connector to vacuum pump (ML350- 2014 bluetec) - it moves back and forth 1/4" when you push sideways you can hear the vacuum noise but when untouched it gets sucked into position and do not hear any leaks but I believe it should not be like loose fit under any condition- unless it is acting as vacuum break when engine is off.

[@RichManPoorMotors]

Not sure on the later ml I think mine had approx 1/16” movement along tube but didn’t leak air, can’t remember for sue. but on most cars there is very little movement, although they will move to allow for engine chassis flex, if you have a vacuum gauge try placing it further on the system and check if pressure changes when you push tube on further at the pump if it goes up then you will have a leak, by the sounds of it you might have.

[@perahauraki2985]

Thanks RMPM! I ordered a seal thru your info. 😀 Then I misplaced it! 🤬 Sooo… 😏 I ordered another 😄👏🏽

[@RichManPoorMotors]

good luck, let me know how you got on 👍🏻

[@cpet5048]

Brilliant! Looks very much complicated for us but easy for u. Where r u based? Rather bring my car to u.

[@RichManPoorMotors]

I’ve had to close my workshop down after being forced to close to public during covid, and the council upping my rent of my unit by 270% I will still be posting videos

[@Luxurypropertyincornwall]

@@RichManPoorMotors that part is no longer avaliable, do you know where you can get these from?

[@mmtsang8846]

Hello, thanks for the video. Do I need to drain the brake fluid before I move out the brake booster? Thanks

[@RichManPoorMotors]

+Mm TSANG hi if you do it the way I did it in the video then you don’t need to drain or bleed fluid Just make sure that any pipe holding clips or brackets are undone so that the ridged pipes can flex a bit without strain and you don’t bend them. Obviously this is RHD vehicle, LHD Drive vehicles may have other parts in front that could be in the way or need removing

[@olivertan3918]

Thanks for sharing and very helpful indeed

[@RichManPoorMotors]

Thanks for the comment

[@ZoukarreFederickBielo]

There is BAS/ESP light comes on my dashboard when I pressed on brake padel, automatically it's blocked the gear shifter to move. What that'll be?

[@RichManPoorMotors]

Not sure from just that info, but my bas/esp came on when my ml needed 4 wheel tracking, so if you have recently change anything on suspension I would start there, also check springs, check if brake fluid is low if it is check pipe work for leaks, and Calipers aren’t seized etc

[@ZoukarreFederickBielo]

@@RichManPoorMotors I haven't changed anything recently from my ML suspension, but I have to change my ball joints, springs and shock absorber because they're completely damaged. Probably that's the BAS/ESP light comes on and locked the gear shifter to move.

[@RichManPoorMotors]

@@ZoukarreFederickBielo that might be why your BAS/ESP light is on, you may need it to be tracked/wheel aligned, especially if you do the track rod ball joints. The gearbox might be something different or it might be connected Im not sure if they are linked

[@Whitt7s]

where did you find the seal to purchase?

[@RichManPoorMotors]

Hi click on link below for seal amzn.to/2K7m22f URO Parts 001 430 0708S Brake Booster Plunger Seal ml270cdi is same part as for ml350 even though they don’t state that it will fit This is the part I used in the video

[@RichManPoorMotors]

Sorry forget to ask where you were from

[@fb3824]

@@RichManPoorMotors that is one expensive seal!

[@RichManPoorMotors]

I think it might be the same as a Volvo one, but I’m not able to confirm this

[@rogercork2364]

Is this the same part that's subject to current recall..nearly one million cars!?

[@williamycf]

This is awesome for what you showed. Thanks bro

[@RichManPoorMotors]

Thank you for your comment I’m glad you liked it, hope you subscribed

[@monkeybar88]

Me thinks that could be done without bothering removing the booster from the firewall?

[@RichManPoorMotors]

It takes a bit of effort to put the seal in, let me know if you do it

[@JB-bb1zw]

Ive got a 2013 ml350, hit the brake pedal first time it feels normal, release pressure on the pedal and go to reapply the brakes and the pedal hard as hell to press down , like its old style manual brakes with no vacuum assist, i dont hear any vacum leak , and the booster seems to be fine on initial application everytime, it just feels like the vaccum is not recovering quick enough, any thoughts on this? Foitnote:I had the oil seals on the oil cooler replaced, my thinking is theres a vac line not connected properly or a vac valve not installed or bad, thxU anyone that can help JB

[@RichManPoorMotors]

If no hiss i would check your vacuum pressure 1st you may have a air leak somewhere