Best Build Plate For Bambu Lab Printers? (Biqu Cryogrip)

[@loughkb]

For your information, if you happen to be a Prusa MK4S owner, these plates will fit on the bed. They just stick out the front about 15 to 20 mm. I have one on my MK4S and it is my favorite build plate for PLA. The adhesion is crazy good and I'm only printing with the bed at 40C. I have printed at 30C, almost room temperature, and had excellent adhesion as well.

[@user-Pulse1147]

Believe it or not, but I have one of the bambu build plates that has the holographic textures on the surface installed on my Ender 3 clone, my CR6-SE. I'm using binder clips to hold it on 'cause I can't be bothered to print an alternative 😂

[@UncleJessy]

Fantastic overview of these. Absolutely amazing for PLA. I still have to run my beds pretty hot for petg without them lifting in corners. These are my new go to buildplates I’m working with

[@ModBotArmy]

@@UncleJessy sweet! I thought I saw a post that you got some in. The comments have been reassuring. Most that have tried them have really enjoyed how well they work. I don’t know that I’ll ever fully swap from pei but I very well may supplement printers with these.

[@cnc-maker]

When the first layer bubbles like that, it means too much filament. That doesn’t necessarily mean over-extrusion, it usually means the head is too close to the build plate. PLA has a glass transition temperature of 55C, so 60C is ok for the first layer, but should drop to no more than 50C for all other layers. I have seen this bubbling when the build plate is too hot as well, but that is very rare. I’ve never used Voxel filament, so I don’t know if it requires a lower bed temperature. As for PETG, this is really weird. I have never had PETG warp on the build plate, but I have seen it curl up at overhangs, which usually causes a crash and failure due to not enough cooling/too much heat. BEST

[@billytalentrocks345]

A trick with petg is to add gcode to up the z offset a tiny bit

[@R_mix19]

I had the exact same first layer issues on my a1 but only with the glacier plate. The frostbite prints great every time. The way I fixed it on glacier was to use the pie plate settings but go into gcode and change the z offset from -.02 to +.03. Made it look perfect. Otherwise both buildplates work great on my p1p

[@JIGL37]

Also had this problem with all my a1's but was fine with my p series. 0.03 fixed mine also but my a1 mini needed .05

[@Roobotics]

It is likely because the surface has an 'elastic' feel and property, so strain guage sensors that poke it with the relatively pointy toolhead, will deform it momentarily before triggering, compared to the hard PEI material. You are adding height to compensate for the deflection in the coating it can't sense before triggering.

[@notyouraveragegoldenpotato]

I almost bought one yesterday but didn't even know what its benefit was. And i dont have issues currently with ANY filament. I just like blue😂

[@SushrutPhutane]

Two important advantages of the Frostbite Build Plate which were not mentioned, 1. As you don't need a heated bed for PLA prints, you can actually save your prints even after a long power cut. 2. It is an absolute beast for printing multicolour prints consisting of a lot of copies as these prints are long & often face failures due to constant filament swaps.

[@Liberty4Ever]

I'm enthusiastic about a build plate that is compatible with a wide range of filaments although CryoGrip seems little better than PEI in that regard, but I'm most enthused about a build plate with better first layer adhesion that allows the proper adhesion at a lower temperature to avoid wasting a lot of energy. This is an even bigger issue on larger printers printing a large build plate full of parts. It's great to start an all day print, check it in 20 minutes to verify that all parts are sticking, and then remove all of the parts a day later. It's even better to do this with much less electrical energy being consumed to make 3D printing more efficient, lower cost, and not heat the work area that then requires more energy to be used for air conditioning. Energy consumption increases exponentially with the temperature above ambient, so there is a very large difference in energy consumption between a 30 C build plate and a 60 C build plate.

[@JJFX-]

I think for many people a main reason lower bed temp is nice is simply if their bed isn't heated very evenly, causing areas near the edges to have less problems. This is mostly useful for PLA though.

[@Spirited282]

I was an early adopter having Pre-ordered the plate and the Frostbite is fantastic, you can run it as a coolplate without issues

[@skcederstrom]

Bought one a few months ago. Order more for everyone of my prints. No more glue. I have never had an issue. Adhesion, I would say is to good. You will understand when you try to take off prints. Personally, I have have never had any warping like in the video.

[@SirLANsalot]

you do NOT need glue for PEI plates, smooth or otherwise, EVER. Glue is a hold over from yesteryear printing, like when on Glass plates (even then you technically didn't need it).

[@theonlymann1485]

​@@SirLANsalotdont TPU printing benefit a lot from it? that said its exclusive for those..

[@lechuck3337]

I think Biqu is missing an opportunity by only going for Bambu printers. Granted, that's a nice chunk of the market. But I'm thinking the CR-10s, Elegoo Max, Prusa XL, or Vorons. Large volume printers are a pain in the ass for adhesion since they take a long time to heat up and the heating is inconsistent. If you can run PLA or PETG on those printers without having to heat the beds as much, that's a huge leap forward.

[@ModBotArmy]

@@lechuck3337 it sounds to me like this was just the start and it’s coming in other sizes. I agree if the demand is there they should be expanding to other common sizes.

[@dtibor5903]

On large printers you kinda need the normal bed temperature otherwise large objects will warp and will lift the bed plate 😄

[@themab9542]

@@lechuck3337 Using mine on an Anycubic Kobra 3, it doesn't fit perfect but it's close enough and doesn't cause problems

[@Gounesh]

Couple months using Frostbite has significantly improved my 3D printing farm experience, especially for bulk prints and minis that previously failed to stick to the textured PEI bed, even with brims. Brims are unnecessary and difficult to remove. After 10 prints or so, stickyness goes away %15-20, though they become better tbh.

[@bradleyliebl2931]

I have been using them all for the last month in my business. I print in a outdoor shed that is currently 34 degrees, I set the plate to normal temps for PETG and they work great! At my outside temps I had to watch the regular plates for adhesion, and these I don't, I hardly was them also, and have ran over 500 hours on each of the 10 I own. The only other plate that seems to work as good is my Prusa xl plate, man the presa xl plat is a great plate, I want to buy a bunch more, but none are made for bambu.

[@looxonline]

The frostbite and glacier plates are coming for practically every popular machine over the next month (including the QIDI Plus 4). Will chat to Gloria and ask her to fire one off to you.

[@Khoomn]

I just wanted you to know at 5:15 I had this exact same issue with my A1 on a regular PEI build plate. I tried everything from changing settings, completely cleaning the bed with soap and water, using a brand new print bed but 0 results on the corners lifting up. Try and replace the nozzle with a new one. I was using the stock 0.4mm stainless steel nozzle (90 print hours on the printer at the time) and I swapped it with a brand new 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle. That fixed my issue completely. I even contacted bambu about it and they told me to kick rocks essentially.

[@Phaedraz]

THANK YOU! I noticed this as well and was so confused what was going on, I have a couple of hardened nozzles I'll do this swap over now.

[@Khoomn]

@@Phaedraz Not sure if its specific to hardened steel nozzles or not, i think its just the nozzles breaking easily or something.

[@DropkickDemon]

Wish they offered this build plate for other printers like the K1/Max

[@LukeVogler]

Nice work keep up the great videos man!

[@ModBotArmy]

Thank you!

[@digitaldragon72]

I have not tried the Frostbite plates but did recently order the Glacier plates during their recent Buy One Get One Free sale. The have worked great for PLA so far and I like that the texture is very close to the BambuLab Engineering plate which is no longer available. I am getting ready to print some parts for the LDO Box Turtle kit and plan on using the Glacier plate with ABS/ASA so i will let you know how well they work.

[@riba2233]

I was really curious to see some PA (non filled version) prints, that one is one of the hardest to get sticking.

[@ModBotArmy]

I don’t even know if I have any. Everything I have is filled I think. Your right though true PA without additives is generally rough.

[@SuperMouseDV]

Mine showed up AND Wow not being able to get stuff off the build plate is a pain but the hot water does work. My next print (running only one of my 8 printers right now as I only have the one spool of PLA :) ) and the Mini Plate showed up today and Yes it looks lighter than the A1 plate I am working with .I am currently upgrading my P1S and P1P to Better Lighting and these plates so Ill get back once I get these tested for my product that has issues with regular PEI sheets. Thanks for then video :)

[@felmare101]

well you sold me, I been struggling with adhesion with it becoming winter and the corners coming up

[@MrHeHim]

This looks amazing for bed slingers outside a chamber 😍 Personally ive moved to silicon carbide glass many years ago, and after learning the narrow temp ranges for the filaments its amazing.. but annoying at times

[@BeefIngot]

I have the Glacier (for print compatibility and the ability to use iso) for my X1C I had issues with z offset too until I reran one of the base machine configurations(can't remember which). I imagine the softness of the surface is what means nozzle based detection likely goes just a bit deep before triggering

[@dwj81]

I bought the glacier's for my A1's. At first nothing would stick. I washed really good and cleaned with IPA, then parts did start sticking. I'm still not entirely sold tho... everything seems to pop off easier than the PEI. I was going to return them, but I decided to keep them around for when I want less texture, like parts that need sanding. YMMV

[@AwestruckAudioHertz]

Just a heads up I've been told you need to use the textured PEI plate selection even with the cold plate (glacier) and even adjust the zoffset some. SOmeone in the comments posted this. "I had the exact same first layer issues on my a1 but only with the glacier plate. The frostbite prints great every time. The way I fixed it on glacier was to use the pie plate settings but go into gcode and change the z offset from -.02 to +.03. Made it look perfect."

[@macualey]

I would have been really interested in further testing of ABS adhesion. It feels like there is still no perfect print surface for ABS.

[@ziggystardog]

PVA?

[@macualey]

@ziggystardog do you mean pva glue? For my prints I need a perfect textured bottom so glue is out of question. Or do you mean printing the first layer in pva? I don't have an AMS and manually switching filament is to much work.

[@ziggystardog]

@@macualey bit of a joke. It works well, but people hung up with aesthetics and neat freaks who hate the mess can’t abide it. There is no perfect 3D print or print surface for any material really-3D printing is a compromise

[@ywsx6489]

I've been printing pla with heated bed off for years on the stock ender glass beds. The avg temp where i live is 28 30ish celcius though 😅

[@jasonwoody8041]

I actually like that parts pop themselves free after the pei cools down. So i have no need of this. Now, if they can adopt this kind of tech for a stronger bite at 100c plus but pop free when cooled down im down.

[@PeterPetermann]

i love my two cryogrip plates

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

Might pick up a couple of these when (after) I get an A1 Mini for the swap mod thing; by the time that comes around, they'll probably be available for it :p

[@ciaduck]

These seem like a solution for Power Loss Resume printing. Typically the feature doesn't work because if the printer is off long enough, you lose bed adhesion. I wonder if letting the printer cool down, then resume and reheat works.

[@-SeanyBoy-]

I will also take a few glaciers for my qidi plus4's!

[@berlinberlin4246]

Hope the Bring them out for the SV07 / Neptune4 235x235 like printers

[@JenSalik_]

Yes. My thoughts exactly. Would be an instant buy for me.

[@jabberwocktechnologies]

Very interested in these, but I have a Qidi Plus4 and a Voron 2 so I'm waiting for different sizes. I've had the same heat creep issues with printing PLA enclosed in the Plus4. I'm also curious to see if this can make printing nylon easier.

[@reviewkings4867]

I know frostbite is only for pla and petg, but would love to see the adhesion of other filaments anyway!

[@username9774]

prusa smooth pei is my favorite, I like the flat underside

[@cristianopersi7953]

Try to print 2 overhang adhesion test models together.

[@agarza6475]

Could you do a video on PEZ/Polyurea plates also?

[@drpainsjourney]

I got (buy error) 3 x Glacier .... and they are AWESOME! But I do have to order that Frostbite, since I have lots of PETG to print :)

[@dustinroberson1865]

I'm having issues with corners coming up on big prints on my pei plate. Even after washing. I might have to pick up a frostbite plate. Just a little concerning with the weird first layer. It's reminiscent of the first layer I was getting on my Ender 3 with an aftermarket pei plate.

[@Serpreme]

Let's get right to the video! Immediate ad.

[@Goofy_68]

I'd be curious how these stack up against Bambu's SuperTack.

[@alphonsesuitperson]

I wonder how these stack up to the new one from Bambu that is supposed to be super sticky as well.

[@MonkeyButlerLabs]

Off topic: I've been away from the videos and printing in general for a bit. What's the filament changer up top you've got there?

[@ModBotArmy]

Ooh the python mod! We did a video on it. I hope your doing well 😊

[@MatejBosansky]

Frostbite actually works too good. It holds PLA and PETG at room temperature. And for PETG it can be actually pain to remove a lot of small parts from plate for example from tree supports.

[@jasonconstant455]

Compared to Pei build plates it seems like the results are the same. Just use a brim when in doubt. I agree that it is good that there is other technologies around. It didn’t seem like in this video you noticed any appreciable difference between these plates and a normal PEI plate that you swear by. Was this videos sponsored by the manufacturer? Or was this an independent review?

[@herpderp1662]

Textured build plate bambu sells. Hands down. The ONLY reason i dont use that is if i CANT have a weird texture on the surface of a print. Ive had exactly zero adhesion issues with it, from PLA, to TPU, to PPA CF. So long as you slow it down, and keep the plate clean it ALWAYS sticks.

[@pyalot]

I got these plates just recently. They are really good. If you just print PEI, you have no idea what you miss.

[@ModBotArmy]

They check alot of boxes and with the interest others expressed it made me want to dive in further. The price is also pretty competitive even against PEI.

[@JJFX-]

Depends on your material. For those of us primary printing ASA/ABS, smooth or powdered PEI is an obvious choice for a reason. PEX is also very good. One of the issues with PEI is a lot of cheaper beds only use very thin layers whereas thicker sheets offer a lot of advantages. For PLA/PETG it really comes down to surface finish IMO because it's really not that difficult to get them to adhere well. I'm just glad glass beds finally seem to be dying off.

[@pyalot]

In my experience the only quality PEI plates you get from Prusa. All Bambulab plates are garbage, including every variant of PEI they have. Nothing ever sticks on the stock plates. Yeah you can make stuff stick on PEI plates… 5-15° beyond the glass transition temperature, which is shit for print quality. These cryo frosted plates, they stick super well at 30-40° and release well at room temperature, and you can still bed bump temps for better adhesion while staying below the glass transition temperature…

[@trinodot8112]

These are great, but I really wish they would make them in black so they dont clash so much with the printer. That bright blue sticks out like a sore thumb.

[@coloradocornbread6996]

Imagine caring what the machine looks like 😂

[@leenunya2965]

​@@coloradocornbread6996hey whatever floats your boat (or benchy). Some people go nuts on the aesthetic when they build their machine

[@regun2434]

Yeah.. are we printing or having fashion show​@@coloradocornbread6996

[@themab9542]

On Amazon there is a gray version with the same material

[@Real_Name_Redacted]

Bambu has their own version that is black * Just for pla and petg

[@reyalPRON]

im still searching for the best plate for pp. so far the pex has gotten best adhesion with only a clean plate. anyone have gotten good adhesion with something else then the tape? got one of each plate coming in the mail. this saved me some testing. cheers mate

[@Goosefang]

The Bambu supertack availability keeps getting pushed back so I ordered the frostbite and the regular cryogrip

[@wartywarthog1235]

Video #1 of me requesting you do a video about the Ender 3 NG

[@carlos19989]

I use Nelly hairspray. Best for this.

[@Zyghqwyv]

try the darkmoon ICE

[@ethancohen6005]

How did you get your logo on the python? Do you have a laser engraver?

[@LoknAtstuf]

WHEN TO USE ALL THEM DIFFERENT TYPES OF FILAMENTS?

[@meanman6992]

I just want to know the best build plate for nylon!

[@ModBotArmy]

Garolite has been my preference

[@EliteMacFreak]

I've been running Glacier on a P1S for about 300 hours. The difference in grip is no better than textured PEI--it fills the niche for people that want a finer-grained surface texture. Don't buy it thinking that you won't have to run brims or glue or a lower temperature. Use it exactly as you would a textured PEI plate. The only notable difference is that TPU sticks to it harder than textured PEI due to the smoother surface (which is a downside--nobody needs better TPU adhesion). The extended perforated handle on the front is nice--I wish more plates had that. The color is ugly as hell.

[@dtibor5903]

TPU sticks too well because of high hotend temps. Reduce hotend temp under 240C and it will remove easily

[@PatriotPaulUSA]

Nice

[@adilsongoliveira]

I've been using mirrors for years. Easy to find, cheap as heck and works fine for PLA, PETG, TPU95 and ABS which is what I use and also, I love the smooth finish they give to the printed parts :)

[@ModBotArmy]

I cant do mirrors anymore. Granted it was my fault for using cheap mirrors but I split my hand pretty bad on the edge of a mirror tile like 5-6 years ago. I never used one after that. I did really like the visibility to the underside of the toolhead they provided though.

[@riba2233]

They don't work for petg, please don't mislead people, someone could break a glass

[@mikewhite2991]

I have a SliceWorx plate for me X1C and it is by far the best build plate I've used on any printer. You should give it a try, it cost a little more than these, but I think it's worth it. Btw I've had none of the problems you mentioned with the BIQU plates.

[@ClickyCraft]

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@cambouiscom]

Please, activate the french subtitles. And laugh ! (the title is hilarious !)

[@bensen2062]

i use this Plate a Long Time ans never want change

[@Annuit20]

Im net the first and will not the last, just use 3DLAC, never look back. :)

[@liamosterhout6538]

those filters do not work with the X1E

[@antonkukoba3378]

totally looks like buildtak

[@ModBotArmy]

I went through the buildtak era and while there may be some similarities that stuff would rip often with petg from what I remember and was also an adhesive sheet

[@Mr_Yod]

@@ModBotArmy An adhesive sheet that can be attached to a spring steel sheet (included in the quite overpriced full BuildTack kit). The sheets are sold in packs of 3 and they cost as much as one of those Biqu plates, or two (it depends on the seller and sheet dimension). I still have the set from years ago, with the glass fibers base with embedded magnets, before magnetic sheets were a thing. And if you think about it in real time it was basically yesterday, while in 3D printer development time: ages ago. =) I never had problems with PETG, tho. 🤔

[@tired5925]

Why not test 30c? I cant think of any logical reason. Why jump to 40?

[@ModBotArmy]

@@tired5925 30c was almost room temp. I think I was at 28.

[@tired5925]

@@ModBotArmy okey i didnt think about that, but why didnt u even test like at least 1 sheet with 0 and with 30. maybe it will be very different.

[@TMS5100]

Looks like G10 is still better for PETG

[@lylebraybrook275]

Im a gold bambu plate man myself

[@lazyman1011]

All hating the colour, just by BambuLabs original one.

[@Duraltia]

@07:03 Really? 🤨 I'm not sure what shocks me more... Someone ( a KZbinr to boot! ) downloading this *_OR_* someone uploading it to begin with!! 🤔 This can easily be made by generating a simple Cube Primitive with one side stretched, have it angled to like 45°, and the bottom end cut off via a Split to again place it onto the Build Platform 😑

[@ModBotArmy]

@@Duraltia who cares? Sure it’s not hard to design a cube that’s stretched at a 45 degree but the fact that it bothers you so much that someone uploaded it and I downloaded it is wild to me. 🤷

[@rubber800]

why not? loads of people 3d printing are actually printing off their phones or ipad.

[@srilemobitelsrile8809]

Why reinvent the wheel?

[@JenSalik_]

What's the harm in doing this? Saves time if the model is ready for download.

[@Roobotics]

Because it's no longer an apples-to-apples comparison if you redesign a test from scratch, and have only a vague idea of what the original was..? "angled to like 45°" very specific.. Surface area contacting the bed is also the entire point of the test, so he should just guess at that part also?

[@GTW-1807]

Thought maybe video was going to be on the Bambu Super tack plate.

[@ModBotArmy]

I think they launched after. Or maybe alongside? I have had these for like 2 months or so now and I only heard of bambus this past month.

[@GTW-1807]

@@ModBotArmy To be honest I'm not overly impressed with these plates. I bought two of the Bambu Super tack plates but haven't tried them yet. Having a hard time getting myself to use something different than the textured PEI that I have absolutely no problems with... Gerry

[@The_Privateer]

I think these are pure marketing. Zero real world benefit. If you're having problems with PLA or PETG bed adhesion... you just don't know how to 3D print. If all you print are desk and bookshelf do-dads (no real-world functional parts in engineering grade filaments) maybe you'll fall for the marketing.

[@ModBotArmy]

To each their own. I think options are always welcome. Anything that helps remove the pain points is not a bad thing. I don’t think it should be an excuse to not learn how to level your bed or print better but if it’s helpful or preferred by some then there’s nothing wrong with that.

[@rynnjacobs8601]

The AI-generated german audio is absolutely crappy and make the video unviewable…

[@andymeenanvideos]

Learn English...

[@xXIamJAEXx]

Ngl this sounds like a downgrade

[@mettscientist]

Please turn off the ai translation. Sounds horrible

[@ModBotArmy]

@@mettscientist from what I was told it’s automated and you can turn it off in the player.

[@HugoTheLigar]

This is just a long ad

[@Real_Name_Redacted]

He specifically points out issues that he is having and not able to fix... You must not have a degree in marketing, because that isn't the type of advertisement that companies pay for. Hahaha

[@Roobotics]

​@@Real_Name_Redacted slightly disagree simply because bambu has already released the A1 mini version of their super tack plate, and there was no comparison whatsoever. It makes little sense to sit there and compare a 3rd party plate against other versions of itself for only that company, when the company that made your printers also released one of their own. It's a legit marketing manipulation strategy to make your brain focus on comparing one companies products against another, so you forget their competitors even exist. They automatically 'win' when folks stop considering other offerings at time of purchase, so not even vaguely mentioning them, is slightly disingenuous.

[@peypey_it_is]

You auto generated audio sucks. Sorry to be so rude but I can't change it and it sounds like a stupid chinese fake ad. If this keeps going this channel isn't for me anymore.

[@ModBotArmy]

@@peypey_it_is auto generated audio? Lol 😂 I record every video myself on camera.

[@peypey_it_is]

@ModBotArmy maybe it is, it's still so bad that I can't watch it that way. There seems to be the possibility to turn it off on both sides as far as I could find out. But I can't find it in my youtube app yet.

[@ModBotArmy]

@@peypey_it_is I’m not sure what you’re talking about? Are you saying there is a setting for auto generated audio you’re watching over my audio?

[@ModBotArmy]

The way you’re describing it makes it sound like audio is overlayed. If that’s the case that’s definitely not something I am doing on my end.

[@peypey_it_is]

@@ModBotArmy it's not overlayed it replaces the spoken word. In my case into german.