Model Railroad Benchwork Construction For My Layout Expansion

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

See the track plan for this section of my layout in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kHeWnYNvhJiCe7M

[@rdanscale3416]

I will for sure look at this thank you so much... Ron..

[@jamesdearinger3674]

My dad was a framer and finish carpenter as well as an amateur cabinet maker. He always cut his plywood good side down to minimize chip out on the face. Good information on construction techniques. I always enjoy your videos.

[@haroldalexis4200]

Really got something watching this as a woodworker as well. Trains & scenery is going to be great. Looking at your next videos.... Harold

[@TheNorthwestWind]

this inspired my current layout, thank Ron. I always come back to your videos

[@willparsons32]

Great video - only if we could replace the 2x4 studs in the wall with decent lumber that's not twisted or shaped like a hockey stick, the satisfying pleasure of alignment with the external shelf is all but a dream!

[@magnificus8581]

Beautiful work, we did our bench work a lot quicker and dirtier. After figuring out the layout, had a sheet of 3/4" plywood CNC to L- shaped pieces at 4" wide with a vertical leg of 18" and horizontal leg at the depth of our benchwork. Simply bolted 2x2 to existing studs and then the L shaped legs to the 2x2's. Placed the legs 32" O.C . And then a 1x3 as fascia. Cost $150 and installed an entire 12' x 17' room in about 8 hours of work. No legs on floor, minimal holes into the drywall, quick and easy!

[@dkaustin98]

I can tell your are helping the beginners by all the detail you are giving in your video. When you got to the circular saw you forgot to mention the sacrifice board on the sawhorses. Remember that the big box stores do sell all metal and all plastic sawhorses. Using a sacrifice board attached to the sawhorses will save the sawhorses and a blade. The sacrifice boards can be cheaply replaced as those get cut by the saw and begin to get very ratty looking over time. My sawhorses are heavy steel. Those came with pred-rilled holes so I could screw lengths of 2x4 to the tops from underneath. That way I don't have to worry about wasting a 40 tooth saw blade because it cut too deep cutting into the metal. My boards have been on there for two years without replacement. Another option if you are cutting on a workbench is to throw a 4x8 1/2" sheet of extruded foam on the bench first and then placing the plywood on top. If the user sets the depth of the blade like you showed the foam will get cut and not the workbench.

[@goarmysleepinthemud.]

Thanks for this. I am looking at building a new layout. I am not happy at all with my current setup.

[@jamesbach2021]

L girder bench work is bullet proof, but is really a center of the room thing. What Ron is doing is around the periphery and the style of bench work he chose is correct. Basement floors are not designed to be level for a reason. When they flood, and they will, they are designed as such so the water on the floor will go to the drain. That's very important. That is also why you must use a level when attaching your bench work to the studs. Wood does need to acclimate to the conditions to where it's being installed prior to it's installation. I am a hardwood flooring contractor and I can tell you from experience. Keeping the wood in the garage is a huge mistake. Unless that's where your layout is to be built. If the layout is being installed in the basement, that's where the wood needs to be prior to installation. When I started in model railroading almost 30 years ago I had local lumber yards that I could go too. Their lumber was always top notch. I cringed when I saw Ron's 1 X 4's. Lord. My options now are big box lumber yards and the quality..... well... pretty much sucks. But with some patience and picking and choosing you can get some decent stuff. When I assemble bench work I use wood glue on all the joints and use a square all the way through. Once you get out of square, your problems multiply. Predrilling is important when going into the end grain, but counter sinking in pine is not an issue as you can "suck" your screw heads in making that unnecessary. Skill Saw's are cheap.... Instead, go with a DeWalt, Makita or Milwaukee. They will cost about twice as much, but they will be much nicer to use. A 40 to 60 tooth blade will work great. The 24 tooth is a bit rough. Ron's suggestion about setting the depth is spot on. Have fun building your layout. Preplan, preplan and then preplan some more. If you can, visit and work with others existing layouts. That may change what you thought you wanted in the first place. Most importantly, have fun!!!!

[@redbarnz]

Another tip I might offer is that when you make the cross pieces add three holes. This is an easy way to thread your bus wires through and keep it neat underneath your layout!

[@petemotley535]

Im going to start building my new layout soon, and I'm really glad to see this vid, I needed a refresher course on building benchwork, Thanks Ron!!!!!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks Pete. What did you find most helpful?

[@chriskennedy7321]

I love this hobby. Thanks for your videos. They show that precision bench work is not necessary for a great layout. As long as you're within an 1/4" or so, you're fine.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I'm mostly interested in a quality end product, although I do encourage the best craftsmanship one can produce as a general rule. Perfection not required.

[@toddbuhrman9700]

Glad to see your back and at it again. cant wait for the next one

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Its good to be back. Thanks.

[@ronaldlatek4763]

You should cut plywood good face down

[@rjl110919581]

thank you for detail building on your detail layout as thank you for sharing this detailed video from Australia

[@kraigsickels3918]

Looking great 👍 Ron .... I know that you very excited 😆 about your new expansion, I am too 😄 !!!

[@Deltabravo604]

Nice video Ron, several guys mentioned ripping down some 3/4 ply. I would agree. I have a basement layout and most of the solid lumber warped as it was acclimatizing. I bought four sheets of sanded 3/4 - 7 layer ply, ripped them to 3 inches and have had no warping issues with it. I would also suggest pocket holes for the end screws. These holes are way stronger than end screws. One more suggestion would be to use constructions screws over drywall screws. If you are using an impact driver you are much less likely to shear a construction screw. Keep up the good work, I can't wait to see the Helix construction.

[@garybyrne2605]

Thank you, very good info and work.

[@strobelightaudio]

love the tips on woodworking

[@DinsdalePiranha67]

For those of us who don't have three drills at our disposal, there are drill bits available with which you can drill and countersink without changing bits. My dad had one of these when I built my first HO layout as a kid. I have a countersink bit, which I bought at the time I built my teardrop trailer, but I might spring for one of the bits I just described. Along with building benchwork at some time in the future for an expansion of my switching layout, I have some remedial work to do on the teardrop now that the roof is delaminating.... OTOH, if you really want to own three drills, cordless drills are pretty cheap at Harbor Freight. :)

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

...or you can always borrow one for an afternoon. Good tip on the countersink bits. I've seen them but never owned one.

[@LegionOfWeirdos]

Makes me excited to start working on my slot car layout... which I've been waiting for cooler weather to do since it's going to be in the garage. Of course, last week it was in the 80s and 90s and this week it's in the 40s... GAH! But I already started clearing out the area and laying out the supplies. I'm also going to cantilever, but from the top. I'll be using detachable-pin hinges to stabilize it on the wall side and a chain hoist from the ceiling to all four corners, that way I can pull the pins and hoist it up and out of the way for parking and lower it down for play time.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

That sounds very cool. I can't wait to see how that comes together.

[@garycrumrine9538]

Ron, I took some time searning for the book about train yards, and found a electronic version through one of the big book stores. It is a digital version for under $20.

[@randydobson1863]

HELLO RON ITS IS RANDY AND MERRY CHRISTAMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR AND I WILL UP U LAYOUT UPDATE AND THANKS RON 1#FAN'S RANDY

[@justindampier9017]

I use a Diablo plywood blade on my Dewalt. Very smooth clean cut and cuts fast. Worth the $20! Great advice on using a skilsaw

[@Howie2025]

You do bench work pretty much as I do for my shelf layout, open grid on stringers. Some good tips passed on here 👍

[@garylaker4335]

Sound saw advice Ron 👍 Also applies to ‘upside down’ table saws. Looking forward to the helix build.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Safety first. Thanks.

[@markjolyn94]

Great video!! Grateful to see you again

[@NscaleCSXandRioGrande]

Great video as always Ron . well produced and well explained. You are a credit to the hobby . Cheers Darren

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks Darrin. Much appreciated.

[@TrainQuest-Model-Railroad]

Well done Ron. Good job 🚂👍

[@paulgermain4374]

I would have used a chalk line with line level to mark along the total length of the table extension. I would use a level to check the level of each cross piece as well the level of the extension along the length of the extension. I agree with Mr. Curtis below that 3/4" or 23/32" plywood would be a less costly alternative to using 1x lumber. Of course, you would have to rip a plywood sheet with either a skill saw or table saw depending on what you have in your tool inventory. Once ripped to length, the chop saw will do the cross cuts.

[@mannyfernandez2921]

Nice Video Tom! Well Done!

[@makodrummer]

Great benchwork Ron. I have ran into those imperfections as well where exact measurements still do not butt up correctly. I have combatted that by using an oscillating saw by setting the blade flush on the piece that doesn't stick out and cut into the piece that does. It basically shaves off that excess for a flush feel. Of course removes screws into the section your cutting. Looking forward to next week! - Jason

[@Vman7757]

Hey Ron another option if you are able. is to use Plywood cut in to 3.3/4 widths. A sheet of ply can be $30 or more. but a single sheet 3/4 inch cut down to 4" gives you 12 say 1 X 4 X 96 boards. Just a thought. Some places do charge per cut. But it would no be that hard to cut them your self. Just a thought.

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

The expansion is progressing, want to see how you do the curved facia in the corner, great work

[@chrisrabbitt]

Great video as always, very informative and perfect timing for me but if I could offer some advice about storing timber before using in building benchwork, what you said was spot on about allowing timber to acclimate to the room before use for about a month but when storing it put it on either a canvas or plastic sheet off the concrete floor of your garage as unsealed concrete can allow moisture to pass through it into your timber/lumber causing bowing.

[@MattSimmonsSysAdmin]

Really informative! Thanks for talking about this. I'm looking forward to building my own layout once I get into a house rather than an apartment!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

That is cool. What do you plan to model?

[@MattSimmonsSysAdmin]

@@RonsTrainsNThings I grew up in the Mid-Ohio Valley. I'd love to do some pieces of the run between Wheeling, WV and Parkersburg, with some Chessie System locomotives running. I feel like the river valley makes for some nice modeling scenery. I don't have any years in mind, I just like the overall feel of it.

[@tedsmith1295]

awesome video

[@michaellerner1369]

Thanks Ron for another great video. Q. Why don’t you wood glue and screw everything together? Also, I find that putting a sheet of foam underneath the plywood sheet creates a more stable surface for ripping and prevents chip out on the bottom side.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Hi Michael. Great questions. As for glue, it just isn't necessary. The screws are completely adequate to hold the benchwork together, and If I ever tear it out I can reclaim the wood. The foam trick is a good one, but setting proper saw depth keeps from damaging the wood and I just don't find it necessary to damage a foam sheet for this purpose. That's probably my past construction site experience talking.

[@markarnold8160]

Yes indeed - check levels in perpendicular directions. My floor is like a bowl so I have numerous doodads propping legs on one side to achieve an almost level surface.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Been there done that my friend. Frustrating.

[@JoeG-firehousewhiskey]

Very well explained in all areas, thanks for the update!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks Joe.

[@Death_From_Below]

I am 67 and use a Cain to walk so as I am building my 2x12 switching layout I made it wheelchair height.

[@JCsRiptrack]

Thanks for this Ron! I'm just about to start the around-the-walls benchwork for my new layout room, and I've been leaning toward an open-grid cantilevered or floating shelf for what I'm trying to do. This is really helpful!

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Hey John. Look forward to seeing that. Your channel has had a bit of an uptick lately. Awesome! 👍🏼👍🏼

[@JCsRiptrack]

@@RonsTrainsNThings It has! Seems that people like introductory videos on yard building and basic layout ideas. Your video is very timely, as I'm moving to expand it now. :)

[@ChrisJones-om3bz]

Thanks Ron, some good ideas, I’m finishing my room now for my expansion so any ideas help!

[@possumbayou8238]

Interesting and informative. Thanks 👍😊

[@guyrusso9621]

Ron what are the heights of your lower and upper shelfs? If you could do it over, would you change the height of either the upper or lower shelfs?

[@markhagy2586]

Ron, you have some very interesting videos. I have created an N scale layout that I am in the process of building. I currently need some specific advice concerning the wiring of this layout. If I send you a specific question, could you look at it for me? Thank you, Mark Hagy

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

I will try, sure. Drop me an email.

[@chadportenga7858]

Great video, but one thing not mentioned, but critical, is that screwing directly into the end of a piece of wood (end grain) does not have good holding power. The threads of the screws tend to cut the grain and will pull out. It will work well enough for a fascia board, but not for things like braces and shelf brackets.

[@wilzdart]

Very informative video, my hat is off to you cutting long ways with out a fence. I do have on question on installing the top, would it not be easier pre drilling for bus wire and other electrical holes before you attached the top? You really had some helpful tips. Looking forward to the next installment

[@darrontabor3139]

I know the video is a year old but Im watching everything again getting ready to build my layout. So since you are attaching right onto the stud wall, do you not finish the walls? Seems it would be a real pain to sheetrock or whatever around all the supports etc.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

In this particular case this is just a partition to support this part of the layout. The back side that is visible is drywalled, but the layout side is covered with backdrop (hardboard) above the benchwork and a curtain below, so I did not drywall this side.

[@BubbaAyers1969]

Nice

[@josephboudreau3499]

Hi Pastor Ron, Joe here from Jacksonville, Florida. I'd like to share some pics of my Christmas layout this past year. Is that okay?

[@stewarttrains98]

Nice video, I noticed that you didn't use a square as you assembled the bench work frame, how did you ensure square? Also in the tips on the saw, should have mentioned eye and ear protection. Well a thought anyway, safety first.

[@jeremyragan4897]

Ron, i have 3 tables that were used as stand up displays at my work. they are 2-1/2ft wide by 7ft long. they are 3/4" thick. my question is is that too thick for drilling holes in for my feeder wires? i would most likely be using foam board as well to be able to create terrain. thank you.

[@kennethsmith9956]

Where have you been did you finish your project

[@andrewlaverghetta715]

How deep is that section that's going along the whole wall? I'm going to be putting a C shaped shelf layout in a spare bedroom and will likely drill into the studs, but I'm unsure how much support it'll need. Most of the layout will be about 1 or 1.5 ft deep, so I figure this will work fine for that, but part of it is 2ft deep. It'll be for an HO layout and i"ll probably line the whole thing with 1-2 inches of foam. Anything different I should consider if drywall is over top of the studs?

[@csnyder29]

Ron great video. Quick question for your interior corners where you will be adding fascia, do you round the sub-roadbed or do you let the fascia handle the curving?

[@dhemmelgarn1]

Great Video! I'm in the beginning stages (plans & room measurements) of building a new layout. My past layouts have been with wood, as you described in this video. Now I'm looking to make my layout modular (2' x 4' sections) and light weight. I'm looking into using metal studs & tracks for the table frame with 1/2 inch plywood mounted on top. Have you tried or have info on using metal studs and tracks for the table frame? I can't seem to find out the Pro's and Con's on using metal studs. Thanks again for great videos!

[@mikehowey4869]

This is off topic i guess but i'm building my N scale layout using free standing around the walls open grid benchwork with a peninsula in the middle.question is how do i light the layout? It is single level in the basement of my home.Any suggestions?

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

My previous layout was like that. You can hang shop lights from the ceiling or use a bunch of gooseneck led lights mounted to the top of your backdrop and gooseneck over the layout. That's just a couple ideas. I used shop lights.

[@dbcooper1961]

What elevation is the upper level?

[@eloisereid3437]

yippee 👩🏼🦳👱🏼

[@marvinmoore4531]

What is a helix Ron?

[@tomsnyder4138]

I have a question, would it be wrong to cut 1/2 plywood down to 3 or 4 inch strips instead of using pine boards? Plywood should not warp and it might be cheaper to buy a sheet and rip it myself.

[@rdanscale3416]

Tin Lizzy.. Thats a Cool 😎 Productions there Mr. Ron so is that Benchwork.. But could I use this type of Benchwork in an Apt. Setting one thing I've noticed in our Apt is the Walls are not perfectly flat but that Benchwork would be perfect for a Shelf Layout I did see some large L brackets which I've used as Well for my shelves that set above my Layout would using MDF in the thickness you used Rom for sub Road Benchwork be as Good I know a few places that where once in business used MDF when building Speaker Boxes for there big Sub woofers because they said the wood is good at holding up and MDF is supposed to have pretty smooth surface with 0 knots But that plywood with the sanded surface looks Good as Well Ron on your sub Roadbed do you Slightly round the Edge with a Router so you don't get any Splinter started.. I definitely think adding the small boards to the Studs is a Good way to go! I wasn't sure how you was going to add the Backwall up to your Studs but I Assume your going to add either some flat pine 1/2 or 3/4 painted of course and attached with wood Screws so if there's ever a need to add more Electrical Boxes or for other sources you can just remove the Screws and your into the studs.. Can't wait to see more of this 🙌 and if have some check out my Little Layout and tell me what you think of it, soon in the not to distant future I'm thinking of moving my Inner Route to DCC operation like my outer Route is it'll give me little more control over my Engines and might make operation a bit more Fun.. My Layout is the La Junta Hutch & Pratt mini Sub Div. RDA N Scale is how you can find me🤓 please Subscribe and give that 🔔 Bell a Ring See ya Take Care Mr. Ron Allen D

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

Hi, Allen. In an apartment, since holes in the wall can be a big deal, I would probably use legs to support my benchwork rather than screwing it to the wall. I have never used MDF for benchwork, but I know other who have. It is less strong than plywood and more susceptible to moisture if that is an issue, but it is free of knots and will not warp.

[@rdanscale3416]

Hey Ron thanks for the Reply I'll for sure Remember what you told me about the Moisture part our Apt is Brick Constructed i believe the Walls are 2X4 in thickness not sure if the original owner used Blown insulation or not 8 years before I decided to go back in Model Railroading we had a Storm with High Winds pass through it peeled the Roof back and me and my Family we lived on the Second Floor both our Bedrooms & Bathroom where Damaged in the ceilings the water didn't get to the Kitchen or our front Room and Dinning Room but it was something to go Through to me & my folks our Building owner could of Provided another place for us to stay during the reconstruction but he Didn't we basically lived in the front Room with only a heavy plastic separating us from the demo & construction work he didn't even offer to clean the carpets or clean the Air Ducts 🙄 but after 16 years of this place hopefully we can move somewhere else Next year hopefully.. for Now we'll solder on,, But we can smell other tenants cigarette smoke at times although a letter to each New Tenant says No smoking 🚭 No Pets loud music or Parties but you know how College Kids are Some of them.. after they leave the lare of mom & Dad its time to get the Groove on.. BACK to about Moisture I try and keep the Door 🚪 shut Ron on our Bathroom which is next to our Bedrooms and keep my Bedroom Door shut or just Cracked open my Table Top is made of Particleboard which has pretty much stayed flat and True since 2015 when I started my Layout... Sorry I was Lengthy on my Reply but I wanted to pass on our so so living conditions its not Really terrible but we get a chance to Move Where gonna Run like White Lightning maybe I should say lightly stroll instead..

[@mattomon1045]

Why not use aluminum angle it's not as heavy as wood and it is easy to work with it will not rot and it is more stable than wood and it doesn't warp and for larger spans steel studs will work fine also

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

All well and good, and that would make good benchwork, but most people don't have the tools to work with steel and aluminum.

[@mattomon1045]

@@RonsTrainsNThings All the tools that you need to cut aluminum is a hacksaw or circular saw with a wood blade and some tin snipes. and a drill and bites.

[@marvinmoore4531]

Tell us what a helix is please

[@MMRails]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/iYHFiqhqhNaNd9E

[@johnkubicki5806]

Why couldn't you have made your "grid" benchwork with "L" girders for the side rails with both "L" girders facing the same way, away from the wall? That would give you more flexibility building your layout.

[@westernstatesrailroading]

Have you tried using a pocket hole jig? Check out the Kreg and Armor jig? No need to counter sink and works great especially if you use a corner clamp: armor-tool.com/woodworking/

[@michaelhband]

👍👍👍❤❤❤🚂🚂🚂

[@imme6376]

Not that difficult to use a cantilever setup with L girder.

[@paulalmquist5683]

You pre-drilled lots of holes. What is the difference between pre-drilling a hole and just drilling a hole? When I learned to use tools many decades ago I only learned to drill holes. Those drilled holes worked just fine so that is what I continue to do. What is the advantage to the more recent concept of pre-drilling. Does pre-drilling use a different kind of bit? Lots of people say pre-drill but no one says why they do that instead of just drill a hole.

[@lewisdean8964]

Is this a layout video or a woodworking instructional video? More work less yammering.

[@RonsTrainsNThings]

The longer I work this channel the more I realize that not everyone has needed background skills needed to do all aspects of this hobby. I try to help modelers of all levels.