Modify your sewing machine for heavy duty sewing. For 15 class machines.

Some simple modifications to upgrade a 15class sewing machine to sew heavier fabrics and leather.
#sewinghacks #sewingmachine #vintagesewing #heavyduty #leathersewing #bagmakingathome #bagmakingmachine #upholstery

[@vellapb1812]

You are a nice tutor. 👌

[@BrianSmiley2306]

I wanted to slow down my vintage machine and had seen an idea posted on a russian YT channel where he made a ring from plywood and fixed it to the handwheel. I used a hole saw to get wihin 2cm of my handwheel. So then I used strips of the anti-slip rubber that goes under carpets. Works great for me!!!

[@clementihammock7572]

I tried on Japanese Standard Brand Class 15, Needle 18, 8mm (2 layers) tan tough leather with pressure foot adjustment, seem sewing quite well.

[@sailingtessbesssewfarnorth1746]

Excelent

[@rndea100]

i dont have a 15 class machine but i watched cus i love to see what you can dp tp improve these old machines can you do a vid like this for the 319k to handle haevy fabric thanks i seen your hook mod that was dope

[@davidanddavidstrading]

great video! I have a few machines that are class 15!! Let's sew!

[@theunknownchef5825]

Those are some great ideas, I will have to give this a go with one of my spare machines. Cheers

[@jdhtyler]

Thread twisting up see time 2.24 under the stitch width leaver. I am using thin overlock thread I often rethread my machine after stitching about 10 meters of material since "I think" the twist in the thread causes me a problem with top tension or skipped stitches, again it is me just thinking that that twist gets past the eye of the needle and the loop needed for the hook is not formed correctly and the hook just misses it. Just something that happens after quite a while stitching. I have seen some industrial machines with a thread path to the tension disks pass through a flat plate with a few holes in it. I just wondered if it was "me with a loose stitch in my head" or has anyone else had a problem. I just find rethreading fixes the problem for me. I like your modifications, maybe one day I might have to stitch heavy material.

[@sailingtessbesssewfarnorth1746]

You are correct, twisting thread can cause that problem. Spools are meant to rotate, cones are meant to feed off the top, the three holes in the industrials can make a difference, also longer thread paths allow more space for the twists.

[@jdhtyler]

@@sailingtessbesssewfarnorth1746 Yep my large overlocking spools have a cut off pop bottle surrounding the spool and the thread out of the neck to a DIY thread guide for a friction free path across the machine. My wife uses more expensive thread ;-)) I love the old wood bobbins I just keep them for the memory. We used to do maintenance and repair work for the weaving and footwear factories. The modern cross wound. I found it interesting when used horizontal the plastic disk on the shaft is meant to stop the rotation of the bobbin. Mercerised cotton 1844 invented the treatment by John Mercer was born in the town where we had the Blacksmiths workshop. An interesting Wiki page.

[@robinr6399]

Brilliant. Thank you.

[@theunknownchef5825]

Just a thought, instead of adjusting the motor bracket and cutting a new groove in the hand wheel, if you are using a lathe for this could you not just make a new larger diameter pulley for the motor shaft?

[@sailingtessbesssewfarnorth1746]

That’s not how hearing works. You need small driving, and large driven for low speed high torque.

[@theunknownchef5825]

Ok, thank you, I didn’t know that.

[@Mebethhope]

Do you know size the bobbins you need for this machine? Thank you

[@sailingtessbesssewfarnorth1746]

It’s a 15 class bobbin