Replace MINI Cooper Timing Chain Tensioner - Gen 1 R50-R52-R53 2002 2006

[@starcitizenmodding4436]

As a mini owner im so grateful to you.

[@spencerwagner7985]

same

[@biff_handstands]

Thanks a lot for all the great tutorials! I read torque on the bolt 19mm bolt is 46lb/ft if anyone is curious. Cheers and motor on!!

[@mike3133f]

I had just replaced my belt tensioner and was running the Mini up on the quickjack looking for a coolant leak. This is when I started hearing the noise, clacking to quiet, to clacking. Rewatched the video, decided to take the Jeep for the parts run. Quick and easy fix, dealer had the part and I picked up a wobble extension at Lowes. Love the wobble! Thanks again for your videos!

[@Paulinthewyld]

Dude this video is beyond helpful! My son just got his license and had started driving our mini, it started making this noise after school yesterday and I blamed him for over driving it… It comes and goes at 2000-4000, after seeing this, I think it’s just the tensioner. Even if it isn’t the tensioner… Thank you!

[@spencerwagner7985]

Literally the best instructional video on a belt tensioner bolt replacement job, thank you!

[@deepcutfilm]

Just wanted to say a massive thank you, I did exactly this over the Easter weekend and the noise has gone. I think I've been very lucky because I bought the car just over a year ago and the noise was there, though the mechanic who did my service/MOT at the time had no idea what it was. I researched it recently and had the guts to give it a go (tricky getting the angle for that bolt - but once you've got it!!), and along with a topside oil and filter change I feel very pleased with myself :) Thanks again, your vids are invaluable and saving many a car from an untimely end.

[@leonslatermusic]

THANK YOU so much:) I ordered everything from the links in the description, watched the video about 3 times and it literally took 20 minutes to do this job! It fixed the problem and we are headed out across the German countryside:) - EU Spec 2005 S Convertible. I hit the TIP JAR (join me people)! I appreciate you!

[@gim616]

I would like to say thank you to you Mr Mod Mini.This video on the timing chain tensioner helped me diagnose the problem i had with my R53 Cooper S which i have to say was really bugging me. I had the tensioner replaced and the horrible cold start chain slap has gone and the hot start chain chatter (Sounds like a Diesel) has also gone. I'm once again a happy Mini owner :)

[@ModMINI]

Good job. Continuing to drive the car with a loose chain can cause major damage.

[@minimanadam]

The goto dude for any r53 related thing...this guys videos have built my car !

[@TheAquarpio]

thanks so much ! I purchased a R53 and having this issue , the mechanic has no ideas the cause or how to fix it ! you are awesome

[@SomeGuy-vo7we]

Do yourself a huge favor and find a different mechanic if they had no clue. I'm nowhere near calling myself a mechanic but the most basic troubleshooting showed me something was wrong with my R53's timing chain. Sound is vibrations...abnormal vibrations mean a worn or damaged part...vibrations are coming from the damaged part...get a long screwdriver and attach a funnel to the handle to make a primitive amplifier, then touch the screwdriver tip to parts around the engine. The louder the hum, the stronger the vibrations, the closer you are to the problem parts. If a mechanic can't do this and have a rough guess of what's wrong...run.

[@lytleric]

THANK YOU for this video and the clear explanation. I had the same problem on my 2006 MCS and this video told me everything I needed to know. I don't have the wobble extension needed to reach the bolt, but was able to get a 3/4" socket (very close to 19 mm), with a 3/8" drive so it was shorter, to fit in that space. (My 19 mm socket was too tall.) However, with a smaller ratchet I didn't have enough leverage or strength to crack the bolt loose, so I used a floor jack with a chunk of wood to push up on the handle of the wrench to do the work for me. Worked like a charm! The only thing I wasn't clear on was if I needed to do something to release the tensioner before installation, but one of your comments below explained that the oil pressure should release it, which it did instantly. Thanks again; this was a great help and saved me money and frustration.

[@ModMINI]

Haha. That will work. It also helps to remove the oil filter housing. If you do that you can get almost a straight shot. I use a chunk of pipe over a 3/8 socket as well. Wear some gloves if you can because it's a knuckle breaker! Oil pressure has worked every time, although you can manually release by putting the car in a high gear and rolling the car backwards (if it's a manual shift).

[@silversmoke06]

***** you can use a long extension to pop it as well

[@ModMINI]

silversmoke06 That's what I do if I have the valve cover off.

[@johnboylan4157]

Just changed out the timing chain tensioner this weekend, car now very quiet. Followed your video which was a great help. I did pull the oil filter off which gave me a bit more room. Great video, keep them coming.

[@johnmcgarry4191]

Hi buddy I have just got to say you must be proud of yourself mate I truly think what you do is so grate honestly I have had my mini r53 for a while 5 years now and I stopped putting mine into the garage after I done my own driveshafts and wheel barings ect I realised tht whn u get the advice from you its really easy to fallow and fix iv done bassically all my car on my own with berry little tools n skills but honestly not kissing asses but with ur help mate its doable fir anyone also I enjoy how far u go into the description on how the parts work that's getting fixed and why it brakes ect ur brilliant mate glad to see all your videos iv only got a r53 but I also watch all your r56 vids ect a watch them all they are all intresting

[@justinmontgomery3943]

I have an 04 R53 with 90k miles. I've had intermittent rattles upon cold start for a while. Probably 20k miles or so - I always just thought it was one of the cars quirks like lifters or something. However, today upon start up, the rattle was louder than usual and would not go away after the car warmed up. Unfortunately on the drive home I got it up to around 4-5k rpm thinking it would help. (why I thought this is beyond me). The car seemed slightly slower than usual but could be due to the fact that I was hauling an extra set of 4 tires mounted to s-lites in the boot. I'm going to try to get the car into a shop first thing tomorrow morning. Thanks for posting this video. It was of great help.

[@ModMINI]

Justin Montgomery Sounds like bad tensioner. Good luck. If power is worse than usual, High possibility that the chain has skipped a tooth and a lot of bits in the oil pan. The mechanic can remove the valve cover to inspect. Hope it's just the extra weight.

[@donniemiller5937]

You’re the best! I have 2 Mini-S models 03 & 10. You have talked me through repairs with confidence. Love my cars, love your videos. Thank you!

[@davidmaguire5510]

I have just started to get the death rattle just order the tensioner part I’m hoping this will fix it thanks for making it so clear and and simple to understand

[@gregallen690]

So far, the easiest fix on a mini!!!!🤪 (With your endless knowledge of these incredibly difficult, but awesome cars!!!) Thank you once again 👍👍👍

[@KeepItPurp4809]

Called the Escondido dealership and a couple other independant bmw/mini shops here in San Diego and.the lowest quote i got was $478. Most KIDS that worked there were like uhhh ive never seen the inside of the r53 engine. Disappointing. You happened to save me close to $400. You made owning this mini a lot more enjoyable.

[@ModMINI]

Well, they aren't allowed to touch the engine unless they are master/certified, so that's not surprising. It's a simple fix if you aren't afraid to try something on your own.

[@KeepItPurp4809]

+Mod MINI. any tips on cracking the bolt?

[@ModMINI]

Cheater bar and if you can get one, a 72 tooth ratchet wrench. Cheaper ratchets may have too much slop to get enough range of motion. If you can't get range of motion, remove right front wheel (and maybe wheel liner also) and attack from the right front wheel well instead. In either case, smartly and quickly apply force to the wrench - don't apply the force gradually. It will take a good 80 or 100lb-ft of force to break loose. It should feel nearly as tight as a brake main caliper bolt or one of the subframe bolts.

[@KeepItPurp4809]

+Mod MINI Had to do it through the wheelwell which took maybe 5 minutes longer. Everything went back perfect though i really appreciate the thorough diy videos. It has been parked for a few days now and i turned it on and now the idler pulley is sounding rough. Awesome. Onto the next.

[@johnvockins9743]

Hi, thank you so much for this, my mcs started with a small rattle and mainly when driving but this got worse and would rattle on tick over to the point it was doing just as yours was in the video clip. We changed the tensioner as you described and sorted! Thank you very much, saved a fortune.

[@johnwetzel3929]

Thanks for putting out this video. Fixed the death rattle myself and saved me a ton of money otherwise.

[@veloce1772]

You were so accurate specifying the use of a wobble extension. And the pipe extension on the half inch drive too. Cardan joints didn't do it. A straight extension interferes with the oil cooler. Thank you for the excellent instructional videos!

[@dorough2]

How long should the wobble extension be? And it definitely is a 1/2" extension?

[@veloce1772]

Bob Dorough 3/8 wobble extension. And it's only 1.75 long.

[@veloce1772]

But I must have used the 1/2 inch wobble with a 1/2 inch ratchet. The 1/2 inch wobble is about 2.25 inches long. It was a while ago and my memory of it is not clear.

[@ModMINI]

1/2 will be tight quarters as all the parts are bulkier. 3/8 is better but 1/2 might work. Standard length 3/8 short extension works fine. Anything longer and you'd probably have to attack from the right front wheel well. The short 3/8 wobble extension lets you get the job done even with the car on the ground.

[@andreashaslinger8460]

Thank you so much for this video. I had same issue and fixed it today. My Mini works fine now, without timing chain noise :). I used a Hazet 919-1 45mm wobble extension from amazon, because here in Germany I was not able to get your mentioned wobble extension Very best regards!

[@ash.hoffman]

I replaced my tensioner following your video and all was well for about a month. Then the noise came back one day after a carwash. I dug deeper and opened the valve cover to find the fixed guide had a broken guide plate. I replaced both guide rails, the oil, and the tensioner again. Still sounds horrible. I know I missed some small bits of broken guide rail. I'm afraid they might be reducing oil flow by blocking the pick up tube. I've pulled the tensioner out again and it doesn't seem to be extending like it should. I'm looking for a best guess direction to further diagnos, should pull oil pan or timing cover next? May I also say your videos are very informative and well done, I can't thank you enough for the work you do.

[@jimmyjones9863]

Another great video. But I have a problem. The tensioner didn’t come out. Any suggestions?

[@Phillip2008007]

This quick vid made my day! The coop was starting to sound like a diesel and it was a little embarrassing to roll up to a red light sounding like a TDI! Simple 20 minute job and i'm back to bombing the streets! Thanks a lot!

[@ModMINI]

Thanks for watching. It's not a little embarrassing, it's a lot embarrassing! :)

[@philippequinto2341]

Hello thx for the video. I had the diesel noise and so I’ve made my tensioner replaced by a mechanic. The first drive after the repair I don’t have the diesel noise but I have a whistle sound. Could it be the timing chain?

[@Beefy_Belfa]

Can I just advise this to everyone - I’ve just lost a Mini R50 because of this problem. The chain all of a sudden started to have a little rattle, I tried to keep my revs as low as possible without being obstructive for a 120 mile journey. It made it worse, the noise got extremely loud. So I decided I’d do a quick fix at my destination to replace the tensioner. After replacing the chain sound went - but now I’ve got knocking, rod knock or where the valves are touching pistons I don’t know. But the car is now a hugely expensive/time costly job. PLEASE do not ignore this sound and think you can bear it out. If you’re going somewhere, try to reorganise and go a different time and get the tensioner replaced ASAP. I learned the hard way why it’s called “Death Rattle”.

[@oscarc7993]

Hi there, thx for the video, have u ever faced any problems with roof closing only 2 sunroof mode?, I've checked the switches in the trunk, I properly closed the clamps that holds down the rear bit of the roof, also removed the inside left side panel to check the 4 purple relays seems 2 b ok, also checked the module which is the white box sitting in between the relays, it works, the only thing 2 check is the mechanics of the roof, but just wonder u or anyone has a video on how to check these things, much appreciated.

[@NYChemicalRomance]

I’ve taken my filter housing off to do the gasket so it’s super-easy to get to the tensioner. My question is is it worth changing it while I have good access? Mine doesn’t suffer from the “death rattle” but is 15 years old with 95000 miles on the clock.

[@rmoore911]

I just bought an '06 Cooper S last month and this started happening this week. I've parked it for the time being, but after watching this video a couple times, I've order the parts and should be getting this done this weekend. Too bad it'll be like 33 degrees out. Nothing like bustin' a knuckle in freezing temps.

[@ModMINI]

Sorry to hear it happened so soon after purchasing. Good luck with the repair. I suggest wearing thick gloves like the ones I have. It doesn't hurt as much when you slam your knuckles against hard steel. :-)

[@rmoore911]

No such luck today. I need a shallower socket and/or a different universal/wobble. The hoses were in the way too much to get a straight on shot to seat the socket all the way. I need whatever tool you were using, the other type of wobble, is just too bulky to use unless you take off the hoses.

[@ModMINI]

rmoore911 Short wobble extension and a shallow six point 19mm socket. Should be able to find those almost anywhere. I know Harbor Freight has wobble sets. Or check here: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062PBT2K/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0062PBT2K&linkCode=as2&tag=mimlif-20 and www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPULD8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000NPULD8&linkCode=as2&tag=mimlif-20

[@ModMINI]

***** The other option is to remove the wheel and wheel liner. You can get the 19mm socket on without a wobble if you do it this way.

[@rmoore911]

I was probably going at it all wrong, i was using 1/2" drive. My "shallow" socket, which was the 1/2" drive version of the one you listed was as large as any of my full size sockets. The weather is going to be to bad to work on it anymore this weekend, so I'll take see what I can pick up for a 3/8" drive this week, and wait for slightly warmer weather next weekend, we might actually be in the 40s. Woot!

[@stussy1100]

Just did my 2003 CPS hardest part was taking of the Intercooler for oil filter as it was pretty close according to the log books by previous owners hasn't been changed as it's at just over 170ks last mechanic told the guy it was coming from the super charger. Awesome video thank you. My next plan to get the oil done on the super charger.

[@ModMINI]

Oil inside intercooler is normal and it is from engine PCV, not supercharger.

[@stussy1100]

@@ModMINI just wondering at how many k,s would super charger need to change oil as in my log books shows supercharger has never been serviced.

[@AlainSainz]

Hi! First off I want to thank you for such a nice and easy to understand video! I have a question. In other videos I've seen, the tensioner has to be popped open after it has been installed. In your video I see that you left it closed after installation and let the oil pressure pop the tensioner open. Which one is the correct way?

[@ModMINI]

Either is fine. It will pop itself when pressure builds. If you prefer not to hear the rattle until that happens, pop the tensioner yourself. If for some reason you find it doesn't pop, and your car is manual transmission, put in 6th gear, engine off, and push the car backwards until it clicks. I've never needed to do this, but it is also a trick to unstick a bad tensioner until you can replace it.

[@AlainSainz]

***** Awesome! Thank you very much for the quick reply! I will be changing mine this weekend I will let you know how it went.

[@AlainSainz]

Hey! Sorry I never got back with my results. I removed the old one and sure enough it was stuck. I got it unstuck and cleaned and put it back and it worked perfectly no noise was gone. Knowing that it could happen again at any time I just went to the dealer and bought the new part and got it installed in like 5 minutes :). Thanks again for the help!!!

[@user-oh6zn7bi2z]

Thanks for the information!

[@Prodaz2]

Thanks so much, you have breathed life back in to my car. £22 on Amazon next day delivery !!!! You are a star!!!!!!

[@Harnishchappy]

Darren Williamson hi mate, was this an easy fix? Thinking of doing the same but dont wanna give £££ to a mechanic to do it, lemme know, Cheers!

[@Prodaz2]

MrKrayzeeKrysis the hardest part was getting the bolt loose . After that it was a breeze .

[@TreeBeardNero]

@@Prodaz2 how did you get the bolt off in the end

[@dusty1791]

At the end of the repair during idling(4:40-on) there was a kind of fluttery and consistent clicking noise over the sound of the motor. Any ideas what that is?

[@ModMINI]

Not sure what you mean, sounds like normal engine noises to me. Microphone playing tricks? Flutter (air flow) / clicking (injectors or valves)

[@dusty1791]

Sorry, I wasn't really sure how to describe it since it's kind of subtle in the video. This video has more emphasis on the noise: /watch?v=FQAp5vaDpTk Also: Huge thanks for this channel. Tearing into my car soon to do 100k maintenance/upkeep, this all makes it so straightforward

[@markcoyne5811]

You seem know alottt! Watched so many of your videos. But need help lol, my r53 started make noise like rod knock kind of sound, started just befor for 2k revs now does on idea. Did need put half litre of oil to be full. Any idea

[@exgtt2061]

Is it normal to hear chain rattle for less than a second upon a totally cold overnight start up? Or should the tensioner always hold against the chain? My car rattles for less than a second but only from overnight start ups. Thanks!

[@benjshields]

Hi I've got a Mini Cooper s 04 plate and was just wondering do you need to change the timing chain like changing the timing belt or is there no need to change the chain unless you need to ?

[@imbigron1969]

do you have a a complete video removing the timing chain on a R53 as no video on you tube showing removing the crank gear and timing cover

[@ModMINI]

+Ron T I have a video for replacing front main seal and you can also see timing chain work in my engine rebuild / engine swap videos.

[@christophermartineau9700]

Brilliant . this is what happened after an oil change is this normal thanks

[@PeacewiththeGraces]

Sorry for the silly questions, but is this done through the driver or passenger side?

[@potatochobit]

this is on the passenger side

[@thebusketsmusic2255]

i have a knocking noise but i think its the clutch, when i press the clutch in it goes, and when i depress it, it comes back, not excessively loud but noticeable, what do you think that is??

[@ModMINI]

If the sound changes when clutch is depressed, it's probably clutch, pressure plate or throwout bearing.

[@helmidr7595]

Thanks for the informations, I have a Mini Cooper 2002 1.6 petrol, does it have a chain or a cambelt?

[@ModMINI]

Lim d All first generation petrol MINI have a chain. I have no idea about the diesel.

[@mobilexcellence]

Mystery solved. Thanks for the video. I found my belt tensioner was faulty (missing bolt on the mini strut) but figured the noise couldn't be that. So I have two projects now. Thanks again. Dave

[@chuckchuck8643]

Mine still sounds like that and have had the tensioner replaced. As well as the rocker arms or tappets. Don’t know what else to do.

[@timothyshaner8926]

Older video, but what breaker bar do you use? Mine is hitting the oil filter housing when trying to break the bolt free. I can't reposition it as it doesn't ratchet

[@cosmokenney]

How do they keep the s/c horns looking so good? Mine are all pitted and discolored.

[@ModMINI]

Don't drive on snow / after it snows

[@Dbcooper581]

I recently had a timing chain failure, i plan on fixing this my self with help from a friend, for some reason I'm confused on what my car is considered, I'm pretty sure it's an r52 its a 2006 cooper s with a super charger. Also I was planning on changing the timing chain and guide rails would you suggest starting with the tensioner and go from there or just change everything, thanks

[@ModMINI]

All 2006 Cooper S cars are supercharged. R50 = non-S gen1. R53= Cooper S gen 1. R52=convertible S and non-S gen1. If you have driven the car with the rattling sound for more than a few days, it is possible that there is guide damage or even skipped teeth. You could try replacing just the tensioner and stop there if everything feels fine (like it did before). If there is still any rattling or car feels like it has less power, then the timing cover, oil pan and valve cover need to come off.

[@fueledbytacos218]

mine was loose and leaquing after tighting it it makes the ratle noise and it sounds like there is a rock in the belt. did i over torque?

[@allanyj]

thnx for this great sharing, i m going to do it myself, just concerning about would be possible if timing chain drop off or somehow skipped its original timing if the tensioner been taken out just like that. my local mechanical recommended not to do it without timing chain been fixed and said it is way too risky of doing so. have no idea now.

[@ModMINI]

Just taking out the tensioner will not cause the chain to lose timing. The only way to lose timing is to drive the car at higher RPM when it's making the rattle. And if that happens you will have metal bits in the bottom of your oil pan. (The lip on the back of the timing chain cover prevents the teeth from skipping - unless it is broken). If you have any worry, take off the timing chain cover to inspect. If the back of the cover is undamaged and the guide rails look ok, then you are OK.

[@ModMINI]

Allan YU Yes, you should be able to see pretty well through the valve cover, but pretty hard to see the crank sprocket or the bottom of the timing chain cover. If you suspect there is damage, drain your oil using the drain plug and more likely than not, some bits will come out together with the oil.

[@jameswilde6713]

Got one for the timing chain? My w11 might have skipped a tooth when my tensioner was bad...

[@adino3886]

I've had an issue with my 06 r53 where it takes 5+ seconds for the no oil pressure light to go off on cold starts, so I dropped the pan to inspect the oil pickup and found broken guide pieces and aluminum from the timing cover/oil pump in the pan and pickup. It doesn't rattle and the chain/guides where supposedly replaced around 25k miles ago. Is there a way to get a good look at the timing components to verify their condition? Thank you for your videos.

[@ModMINI]

Remove valve cover.

[@sherry7595]

CAN YOU PLASE TELL ME HOW TO CHANGE MY BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR.I TOOK MY MINI TO A SHOP THEY LOOKED IT OVER THEY SAID A/C PRESSURE , COMPRESSOR,FUSES & RELAYS ARE ALL GOOD. THEY SAID HE COULD SEE BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR MOVING WHEN CYCLING FROM HOT TO COLD POSSIBLE BLEND DOOR BROKEN. I HAVE NO IDEA WHERE TO BEGIN TO LOOK . AND A VIDEO WOULD BE AWESOME. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ALL THE VIDEOS YOU HAVE POSTED

[@ModMINI]

I haven't done this before, I suspect it requires a dash removal.

[@pablopaha]

When I start my engine from cold it sounds like there's some tappet chatter but it goes away after about a second. While still warming up there's a slight rattle type noise in the rocker cover about where the top timing gear is. I've ordered a new chain tensioner which I plan to fit on the weekend. Are they known to lose their tension gradually as the noise isn't sever yet which makes me think the tensioner may be a bit soft. Also, is rocker noise common? My Mini has just over 100k miles but I change the oil every 3k miles..

[@ModMINI]

Rattle on startup is normal and some rattle at idle is normal also. They are not a quiet engine. Tensioner doesn't lose tension over time. They just get stuck in retracted position and car sounds like a diesel engine.

[@BoxThisLap]

I wondered if you could help i decided to replace mine for a new one even thou there wasn't any rattle i just thought i would do it whilst doing other jobs to prepare the car for the track However it seems the new one will not extend i wondered if you have any ideas ? the old one was rather sticky when i checked it although was out when i removed it After removing the new one i confirmed it is still in the original position it came in

[@Toms_Short_Movies]

My Haynes UK manual suggests releasing the spring in the tensioner, by levering the guide rail from above. Is this necessary or will it just pop out when the engine starts?

[@ModMINI]

toms short movies if you can get it to pop, sure. If not, it will do so on first startup.

[@Briandacanay]

Is there a o ring gasket part number that should be replaced along with the tensioner?

[@ModMINI]

No, there is a reusable crush washer on the bolt.

[@dctineffect]

maybe a dumb question. that black plastic piece on tensioner. what is it for and do you leave it on or remove it for isntallation. Doing my first one. Thanks

[@ModMINI]

I don't know what it does - but if there was a black plastic piece on the old one you took out, leave the black plastic piece on the new one you put in!

[@dctineffect]

I did not take the old one out. It came in as a bare block and I built it up. This is my first W11. I think it gets left on. Thanks for the reply

[@ModMINI]

It gets left on. If in doubt about anything, take apart the old engine.

[@superdry9052]

hey man. Is it possible that the chain can skip teeth when replacing the tensioner in its "transit" position? the bmw manual says you should take the rocker cover off, and release the tensioner by applying leverage to the cam is it possible to "pop" the tensioner another way? because i dont really feel like taking off the rocker cover in the snow at -4 C or 26 F, and don't want to rely on the engine doing it itself

[@ModMINI]

Not at idle. Tensioner should self-pop at idle. I've never seen it not pop.

[@trippdaniels]

Hi mod, another solid video from you...I just did this job. I was actually able to access everything from the side of the car - without removing the splash shield. Just wondering what a "bad" tensioner feels like? The one I took out moves in and out but kind of catches or binds a little...is that early signs of failure?

[@ModMINI]

+trippdaniels It's not really possible to hand diagnose a bad tensioner.

[@legnumlucelo]

Hi sir, does the replacing ttiming tensioner need the tool kit like , flywheel pin and timing chain tool to replace the tensioner when u pull out the old one? Or just simple removed and re install

[@ModMINI]

There is no flywheel pin for Gen 1 MINI Cooper. It is somewhat possible to replace chain without the kit but I would not recommend doing without the kit unless you have done similar timing chain work before and are comfortable with this level of disassembly.

[@williamm.7978]

Why does the tensioner get stuck? Could low oil also cause this? I have no pressure lights... My R53 is making this noise. Could it be low oil levels? I changed the oil with 4.5 quarts last month, before this started happening. I tried checking the levels, not sure if Im doing it right.

[@ModMINI]

It just wears out.

[@gregarifian2242]

When its cold out and startimg my 2006 R53 i do hear a little rattling from the front end at idle. if before starting i turn the key to the start position a few times before starting, i dont get the rattle. is this rattle the timing chain death rattle or something else. when starting the car in warm weather in the morning, there is not rattle

[@ModMINI]

+greg arifian Honestly that could be anything. You need to get under the car and do an inspection. Maybe the fuel vapor purge valve...?

[@inlineadam]

I replaced the tensioner (on my 2003 r53) and the rattle remains. I’m wondering now. I put Mobil one 0w20 when I changed oil last. Do I need a heavier oil for tensioner to work? I’m just wondering if I should try dropping the oil for a heavier oil before doing the entire timing chain? Any other ideas? Also, is an inexpensive aftermarket timing chain kit okay or should I look for genuine?

[@ModMINI]

0w20 is too thin for this engine. Aftermarket should be ok, just don't get the cheapest one.

[@scooter0241]

I have a 2011 mini s auto. the tensioner sould be roughly in the same spot? ( when looking at the motor from front of car, between firewall and motor on the left side?) thanks.

[@ModMINI]

It's on the right side of the car but other than that, a 2011 is completely different.

[@scooter0241]

+Mod MINI ok, yeah i found the tensioner, but i took the valve cover off to double check things and the upper guide that sits above the timing chain broke off right where it bolts to the head. the metal itself snapped off. Not sure if it was just a crappy part or if the chain was hitting it.

[@ModMINI]

You probably need a new timing chain and timing chain guide. They stretch and cause damage to the chain guides. I know this is the case for 2007-2009 N12-N14 motors. Not sure if the 2010-2013 N18 motor has the same chain stretch issues. You could try just replacing that part and see how it goes.

[@scooter0241]

+Mod MINI im going to call the dealer and see what they say. The car only has 44k miles on it so that kinda pisses me off.

[@ModMINI]

How did this turn out?

[@theinsaniadventures2289]

hi I just got my 2004 mini cooper s out of the shop replace clutch and I asked them to see where my oil leak is coming from. I've replaced the value cover gasket oil filter housing. and they said they think it's the timing chain gasket.? would that go bad.?

[@ModMINI]

+stacy mccoy Timing cover gasket? Sometimes that gasket leaks, but usually it's the valve cover gasket or the front main seal (crank pulley seal).

[@michaelvanna8982]

Hi..i have r56 2010 mcs..is it okey just to replace chain tensioner..plain as that or there are prerequisites? Am planning this as one of my maintenance..thank you🙂

[@ModMINI]

You can but it probably won't fix it on an R56. Usually needs chain guides and chain replaced as well.

[@ThatMINIGuy_]

Im about to change my timing chain, guides, and sprockets. Do i need to drain the engine oil first? Sorry for the Noob question. Thanks in advance!

[@ModMINI]

Not really but good idea since you will probably be dropping some crap into the open top of the sump.

[@ThatMINIGuy_]

Mod MINI so i finished the job. Ticking noise is still there. Could it be the hydraulic lifters in the rocker arms? I’ll buy the liqui moly hydraulic lifter additive and give it a try.

[@LENTOMI]

Is IT possibile that tensioner won't work well becouse of the low engine oil level?

[@ModMINI]

Oil needs to be nearly empty for this to be possible.

[@petea7323]

My car is a 2004 Mini Cooper. It is a bit rattly when cold but runs well when warmed up. Could this be the tensioner playing up?

[@ModMINI]

Yes possible

[@shimaze5479]

My Mini Cooper R53 runs perfect and it has NO rattle whatsoever. But it has a 126k miles on it. Do you recommend changing the tensioner as preventative maintenance item ? Also, is there ever a need to change the timing chain & chain guides, again as a preventative maintenance item? I know all too well what happens when the chain breaks!

[@ModMINI]

Gen 1 generally don't need to worry unless you still have rattle after replacing chain tensioner.

[@chrisl8843]

Just had a simple question that i tried to answer by searching other sites online: When replacing that timing chain tensioner does the engine oil have to be drained prior? Or is it located high enough that I wouldn't have to worry about spillage?

[@ModMINI]

+Chris L It is halfway up the engine block. It will burp a little oil only.

[@stephenbyatt]

Thanks for the great videos, they’ve really helped with my engine swap project. While I’ve got the engine out, should I change the tensioner even if there’s no noise?

[@ModMINI]

Might as well, it will take all of 2 minutes to do so

[@davidtaylor8559]

Looking for help, think it might be timing chain tentioner. 2006 Mini Cooper s convertible 150k. Klunk at start up then all is normal, rev to 4000 rpm and as it revs down to idle it makes a rapid klunking clacking sound until revs come back down. Noise appears to be coming from timing chain side of engine at the top end. Thanks in advance for any help.

[@ModMINI]

Could be, I have no way of saying for sure without seeing the car. Could also be rod knock, but that is less likely.

[@davidtaylor8559]

When you say rod knock, you are talking about con Rod knock?

[@rmjryost]

Trying to find your video on replacing the timing chain; not just the tensioner. Can you point me in the right direction?

[@ModMINI]

I have a video series where I tear down the engine which might be helpful but no video for just replacing a timing chain.

[@Nsherman2012]

Awesome video, and best mini maintenance channel out there

[@montyshelby]

What brand or where to buy new timing set for my R53 thanks

[@johnjankura2604]

I’m coming up on 100k no signs of any rattle is it worth doing as preventative maintenance? It’s an 03 jcw. Thanks John

[@ModMINI]

Don't worry about it. But maybe buy one just in case if you need the car to be working every day.

[@orimeows]

Mod MINI, I replaced my tensioner two weeks ago because I had this noise and changed the oil two days ago but today when I fired up the car (2006 r53) the rattle was back. So I assume now I have to replace the guide rails but I want to go ahead and replace the tensioner, sprockets, and chain also. Is there a specific "kit" you'd recommend?

[@ModMINI]

Ebay or Pelicanparts should have what you need or any parts that are missing from the kits they sell.

[@orimeows]

Awesome. Thanks for the reply. About how long do you expect the job to take? I don't have my own garage but I work at a dealership so I can go in on a Saturday I have off and do the work. I'm just worried about not being able to get it done in time because this is my only car

[@stevengreen6352]

Is it necessary to prime the Tensioner before installing it? I installed it over the weekend and am still have some rattling noise. Shop I purchased the part from, said that the Tensioner should be primed before installing. I am now unsure what to do???

[@stevengreen6352]

For those interested.....as the video does proclaim. The tensioner will prime itself. It is not necessary for you to do so.

[@sani9238]

Very helpful, thought my Mini was toast. Fixed in 30min. Running great again, thank you

[@TreeBeardNero]

How did you get the bolt off?

[@arkadiuszgaudyn6033]

hello I changed Timing Chain Tensioner , but there is always a problem .... you have a video as change whole distribution?

[@ModMINI]

Arkadiusz Gaudyn I don't have a video yet. See my engine rebuild videos - I do work on the timing chain in those videos.

[@steramholl]

Hi Sir. Great vid as always. I replaced my tensioner as I hear the rattle on start up then goes after few seconds (till oil pressure builds) It then comes back whenever it started from cold. Should I have primed the tensioner before I fitted it

[@ModMINI]

If new tensioner does not resolve, you probably need to replace chain and/or chain guides which are likely broken.

[@steramholl]

@@ModMINI thanks. I'll get it checked

[@ticusjes]

what position should enter the tensor , and if it takes a proper position when it comes to get him inside.

[@ModMINI]

+jesus escalona Install the tensioner in fully compressed position. It will automatically extend when the car starts.

[@kirstyfent1]

i have a mini cooper m10 engine, it the 1.6 8 valve and would like to kno if it is a non interference engine as mine has snapped

[@ModMINI]

Sorry, I don't know anything about classic Minis. I suspect it is not interference engine though.

[@jimM196]

Hi, excellent videos! Got a couple of questions, should I preload the tensioner with oil and what size is the bolt that holds the tensioner in? Thanks

[@ModMINI]

Tensioner already lubricated, it will pop once oil pressure builds on first startup. I don't know the thread size but you want to use a 19mm 6 point socket to remove.

[@jimM196]

Mod MINI many thanks

[@BagelSchlagel]

is the noise that engine makes at the end of the video comlpetely normal (the really rapid light clacking sound) I have a 02 S and it is kind of loud even inside at idle when warm or cold I just am worried its the supercharger and hope its not because I do not have time to take it all apart in the next months

[@ModMINI]

Yes, it's a fairly noisy engine.

[@ModMINI]

Best thing is to find and listen to another MINI of same generation and compare.

[@NextTechEdit]

Is it Possible to be having an oil leak from the plug? No weird noises.. I just replaced the oil filter & O-Ring for a second time in a month because I thought the O-ring may have been bad. Then I replaced the adapter gasket. After both of these I've noticed a running leak coming from either the tender plug or somewhere right around there? Any advice? If it is possible can I just replace the plug without taking anything major apart?

[@ModMINI]

Yes, if not tight. But more commonly it's the oil filter housing gasket (between the housing and block) that leaks on high mileage cars.

[@NextTechEdit]

Alright, I just replaced that it has three sections (triangle shaped overall). Can we replace the plug without having to mess with anything important?

[@ModMINI]

Yes. But you really only need to replace the brash washer if it's damaged.

[@NextTechEdit]

Thank you very much!

[@joymariano7423]

Hi, how would you know if the problem is your supercharger or tensioner? The shop said supercharger but after watching your video it seemed like the tensioner? Thanks Mr. Mod Mini

[@ModAllCars]

Automotive stethoscope.

[@CarpaccioSalad]

You would feel it in the acceleration if it was the supercharger.. The whine would be less noticeable too!

[@taylorotis2959]

Hey man, I believe my tensioner was bad and then the other it night it sounded like my car made a pop noise and now runs real loud. I cant drive it and I try not to start it, though I have when I was letting a mechanic listen to it. It still hold a good Idle underneath the loud noise. Plus oil came out of somewhere when all this happened. I believe it was all cause by the tensioner or chain guides failing? The original taping noise only happened around 3000 rpm. I went to pass a car then SNAP steaming oil coming off my engine, Do you have any insight on what might have happened to my car?

[@ModMINI]

Robert Otis Oil coming out of the car? You may have a blown engine.

[@taylorotis2959]

***** Yikes, I hope not. As of now It sounds about like what yours in this video sounds like. Slightly louder, but yeah oil came out. it still has a lot in it though, and its not really leaking bad while its sitting currently.

[@ModMINI]

Robert Otis Timing chain tensioner does not cause an oil leak unless the cap bolt fell out, which I have never seen happen. You're going to need to inspect or tear down the car to figure out what happened.

[@taylorotis2959]

***** Thanks for the insight

[@neilhenken5331]

Great video, would the tensioner cause the service engine light to come on and to get a P0340 code from OBD scanner? I have a 04 Cooper S. Thanks

[@ModMINI]

+Neil Henken Is your car banging and making loud noise like a diesel? If not, this is not your problem P0340 is probably a lazy or bad camshaft or crankshaft position sensor - yes I know it says camshaft in the trouble code but it can be caused by the cranks sensor as well.

[@neilhenken5331]

+Mod MINI Thanks for the reply, No it's no making a banging noise or sounding rough, but I was thinking if it was stuck only a small amount it might trigger the code, my first thought was the sensor, which I will test, but I was also thinking that the sensor is telling you that you have an issue in the cam area, and not necessarly the sensor.

[@ModMINI]

+Neil Henken not the tensioner. This code could only be thrown if the tensioner is so bad that the chain has skipped. Even then, I think it is a different code. You may not be able to test the sensor since the problem may be transitory in nature. The last time I saw this code, it was the crank sensor.

[@neilhenken5331]

+Mod MINI I did read somehwere that it could be the crank sensor, it's going to take some investigation by the looks of it. thanks for your help.

[@ModMINI]

+Neil Henken I would just swap for a used sensor off eBay. You could buy both the cam and crank sensor for cheaper than the price of either of those new and for less than what your time is probbably worth.

[@kerrigansteger2527]

Did you put the car on jack stands or were you able to change the tensioner from above?

[@ModMINI]

+Kerrigan Steger Timing chain tensioner can be done on the ground if you have a wobble extension. I did one in a parking lot in 5 minutes once.

[@ryanhunley]

Do the 2008 non s base model hatchbacks have the same tensioner issues?

[@ModMINI]

+Ryan Hunley Unless your car is a convertible, the 2008 cars are generation 2 with different platform/engine. The 2007-2009 MINI Cooper S have their own timing chain stretch/tensioner issues. I don't know if the base Cooper is affected as well (the engine is a variant of the one in the Cooper S).

[@ryanhunley]

+Mod MINI I see. Thanks so much for your reply!

[@ardalanshabestari3437]

+Ryan Hunley the R56 models dont have the same kind of tensioner. theres no oil going inside the tensioner but only problem they have they get loose and 4,2l of the engine oil comes out of the engine. so when you go to the dealership they change the tensioner but no need you just have to tighten it every year to prevent this from happening

[@ryanhunley]

+Ardalan Shabestari oh wow! Thanks a bunch Ardalan. I wonder if that's something I can do myself. I haven't noticed any leak in that area... yet.

[@ardalanshabestari3437]

You're welcome and if you have anyproblem or question, ask me cause i currently work at a mini dealership :) . Its been 1 year so ive seen almost everything :p Ryan Hunley​

[@Bimmeraudi1]

Is it possible to get to the Remove the Tensioner on a manual R53 with the same technique?

[@ModMINI]

Yes, that's what this video is for.

[@Bimmeraudi1]

Mod MINI Thanks for the video and the reply. I got this done and everything works perfectly. You are the best for making these videos.

[@Dmac13131]

I saw a few videos about ticking with the r53. How can you tell the difference if you need a Timing Chain Tensioner or a new belt tensioner?

[@ModMINI]

+D-Nice Grogs You are listening for a bad bearing vs. parts banging into each other.

[@Dmac13131]

+Mod MINI so parts banging, belt tensioner, bad bearing is timing tensioner? Mine is more of a clicking, not crazy loud, and it goes away when I put in the clutch pedal and or put it on gear.

[@ModMINI]

+D-Nice Grogs no, opposite. If it doesn't sound like the engine is destroying itself, it's probably bearing or something else.

[@Dmac13131]

+Mod MINI yeah mine definitely does not sound like the engine is trying to destroy itself. Just annoying ticking that can be almost loud when sitting idle (no gear engaged) at a traffic light. Sometimes it not so bad. I just hate my car from 2005 sounding like it's from 2005. About to get my oil changed @ Mini and will ask which it is, guess it's kinda hard to figgure out by just description. Thanks

[@facts-GPT]

So I changed out the tensioner... Still made the sound for about a minute... Then went away. However when I rev it a bit. Over 2k it comes back. Idle. Fine... Drives normal, went for a ride around the block at low rpm. But the sound keeps up over 2k rpms. Ugh... Next step to pull the oil pan and see if I have metal or plastic? How many hours would you guess it takes a mechanic to change the whole timing chain and sprockets?

[@ModMINI]

Brandon Balcer Yup, the noise should go away in about 5 seconds normally. This is about a 3-4 hour job if you know what you're doing, book time is probably closer to 5-6 hours.

[@digitalnewmediadotca]

Hi MOD ... Query: I have a 2004 r53 with some of the extras ... CAI, aftermkt exh and the pulley. After installing the hydraulic tensioner, the sound did disappear but only for one afternoon. Is my next step to install the guide and rail; and if so, can this be done from above with the removal of only the valve cover and associated parts? Kind thanks -

[@ModMINI]

+digitalnewmediadotca Car needs to be on jack stands and right front wheel removed. You need to remove valve cover and timing cover. If you find damage, you'll need to remove oil pan as well.

[@romsasleilighet6382]

I have completed this job, thanks to this wonderful video. It was impossible to do without a wobble extension, so I highly recommend getting one before starting. Now I am only wondering about how long the timing chain itself lasts. 100 K miles? Do any official MINI service involve replacing the chain or doing something to it?

[@ModMINI]

On a 1st generation MINI, I have never had to change a timing chain for an engine that has not blown up for some other reason.

[@lukemorse8955]

Do you have any videos on how to replace the Timing Chain or have instructions on how to do so? Thank You

[@ModMINI]

I show the timing chain assembly in my engine rebuild videos but no video just on timing chain. Usually only ever the guides fail, not the chain.

[@lukemorse8955]

I have a similar sound on my 2003 mini cooper s. I have replaced the tensioner and guides but is still make the sound just quieter. So i thought the chain might have been stretched. Any thoughts on what to do. Really appreciate your advice your videos have really been more than helpful.

[@ModMINI]

If you've replaced tensioner and guides, then it should be fine. The chain really never stretches and should be within tolerance if the guides and tensioner are undamaged. It might be normal noise or it might be coming from elsewhere. Maybe listen to another R53 engine to compare.

[@lukemorse8955]

ok thank you. sorry for all these question but i have been wondering what will happen if i accidentally got the timing off a little bit on the timing chain? I think I may have done that when changing the guides.

[@ModMINI]

Car will have less power and engine might throw a code or go into limp mode.

[@Tougenuggets]

I have an 04 R53 Cooper S and It has a slight rattle from the timing chain area. It's got 83000kms on it so I'm thinking it may just be a stuck tensioner. It is no where near as bad as the one in the video but it's noticeable when u rev it up and back off. Also when accelerating hard you can hear it. I took it to my local MINI garage and he said it could be the tensioner or the supercharger gears. I'm thinking about changing the tensioner as its a cheap and easy thing to try. I'm going to do it myself as I was an apprentice mechanic and have a fair knowledge of cars. But I have just one question that a friend brought to my attention. When doing the timing chain tensioner should the engine be at TDC? Or will it not skip any teeth if I replace it and not rev it as soon as I start it.

[@ModMINI]

Rhys Silver I have not seen that symptom from a tensioner before. It almost sounds like worn lash adjusters or wrist pins. Do you know about the car's history - has oil service been appropriately done? Engine does not need to be at TDC. Just do not run engine or rotate engine backward with the tensioner out. If it is the supercharger, it would probably be loud all the time. Make a video and post on KZbin if you want me to have a listen.

[@godskillers2]

Hey there, nice video. So I took mine off and it wasn't stuck it was pumping when I pushed it in and out. What else could be the problem? Is it the chain that has to be replaced? Thanks.

[@ModMINI]

You can't tell by inspecting it. The part is cheap. Replace it; if the noise is still there, it means you have broken chain guides.

[@godskillers2]

Mod MINI didn't work at all still sounds the same

[@ModMINI]

Time to replace the chain guides I guess. Either that or your problem lies elsewhere (some common similar noises are bad supercharger PTO gear or connecting rod knock)