Monday Night Meatloaf 145

[@jobkneppers]

Tom, one thing I learned about fasteners is that you utilize the strength of the fastener in steel if the engaged depth is a minimum of the outer diameter of the thread. In non-ferrous the rule of thumb is twice the O.D. as a minimal engagement. I'm metric so for a M10 thread in aluminium you should have 20 mm of engaged thread. So if you know your material thickness you divide it in two and that's the maximum thread from a thread point of view. I used it for +25 years now and it never let me down. Maybe a practical tip. Thank you! Best, Job

[@1ginner1]

Yep , 2 -2.5 times dia of engagement is what I have always used. Head profile is also a consideration. In this set up I would have used Hex head rather than Countersink head bolts.

[@felixar90]

@@1ginner1 countersink was necessary for the side tube because hex head would be in the way.

[@micmoslof1461]

Hi Tom.. two things.. 1) thank you for telling us about Gary a few years back.. I think he is just a pleasure. One of the best treats you guys share is how you think around problems and challenges, outloud, so some of get to learn.. and 2) a sort of welcome back: I have really missed your content the last few years. Somewhere in the first part of your load test I felt like you were having the kind of fun with your project that seems to have been missing since the “egress”. Thank you for sharing your world with us.

[@spaight711]

That’ll give full engagement for sure, but if you look at the engagement of a grade 8 nut on its corresponding bolt it’s less than a full diameter and the bolt will always break before the nut strips out (unless you overtorque it of course). I’d bet there’s a couple pages in the Machinery’s Handbook about different thread holding properties of different materials and hardnesses. Remember, fine thread pitches are stronger than coarse. So when you need the extra strength, suck it up and turn the wrench a few extra revolutions.

[@1ginner1]

@@felixar90 Only if you go with the failed design.

[@kevCarrico]

great video, tom - thank you!

[@rleeAZ]

Happy that I get meatloaf on Mondays again :) Thanks Tom!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Richie. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@TheTsunamijuan]

This was a fun episode for sure, imo. I very much enjoy seeing and understanding testing to failure, and why.

[@oxtoolco]

Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@fisheatinweasel]

Great demo. Do me a favor, please ... Secure the tensioned object with a buckstrap of sorts to prevent stubbing your thumb when the test fails with rapid accelerations.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey John. Good point. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@jeremydoblinger3609]

Those little hoists,come alongs are great..I use I bit larger ones at work when I need to pull steel around during fabrication of escavating attachments..but that small one is handy as a pocket in a t shirt..

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Jeremy. Well said! I use it on the welding table a fair amount. The small size is really the cats meow. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@CRUZER1800]

Always like your little quotations at the end.... another good meatloaf. Russ

[@scottsession7789]

Great job on the video and fun testing. Yes I do enjoy Old Iron Machine works videos. Especially when he is moving big equipment in his sandals. Because we all know PPE is a last resort, so heads up and don't have a reason to test the PPE. I have been known to do quite a bit in my sandals as well. Keep the faith Scott

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Scott. That cracks me up as well. Gary is an excellent rigger. I can vouch for him without hesitation. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@aserta]

IMO, the most appealing option would have to be the side handle, now that i've seen the results. I was in the other camp the other time on account of not sideloading the tool, but... the potential to engineer a fault in the very holder rather than breaking handles is far better. Having a weaker bolt in the front and letting it shear if you exceed X is the best solution.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Aserta. Good point. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@MrTurboturbine]

I like to use a form tap in aluminum when durability is required.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Turbo. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@pjm780]

That countersink being so deep is what we refer to as a knife edge condition in the aerospace structures world. To be avoided at all costs. Rule of thumb is only go about 70-80% of the material thickness in depth for the countersink. Granted that's also considering you have many, many fasteners in a row to take up the shear.

[@aaronfritz7234]

FYI. That’s a power lineman’s “hot hoist” or “strap jack”. Someone to the strap off and put a cable on. It usually has a fiberglass handle with it. I believe double up its good for 1 tun.

[@WallaTool]

Tom, thank you for all the kind words. That meant so much to me! I checked my email and messages and a ton of people mentioned I was in the new meatloaf! Ha! You analyzed the hammer perfectly. One gate, Two ejector pins- one on the bottom, one on the brass. Thanks again my friend!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Brother. Happy to say what I said. I am proud of you and your journey! All the best, Tom

[@sjoemie_himself]

Another upload! Excellent! Interesting testing on the handles. Could you share with us why grade 5 bolts and nuts don't go together and what would be the right way to go? Grade 5 bolt with grade 8 nut or the other way around? Greetings from the Netherlands, Mark

[@johnjohn-ed9qt]

I agree that those little chain come-alongs seem to all be made in the same factory. I have a norhern tool, a harbour freight, and a couple other pricier labels, fit and finish the same, styling details the same, and even the part breakdown diagrams seem to be the same. Not look the same, but the same art. all bought at different times over the last ten or fifteen years, but, from the outside, the same. Very handy to have, though. Each of the heavy hoists-one tone, two ton, five ton- has one of these tag-lined to it, both for setting them up- five tom falls are not easy to handle on a 20ft ladder- and for offsetting and tugging loads when lifting.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey John. Sounds like you have a few of these. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@derinteriors]

The rule of thumb for the maximum depth of a countersink is 2/3 the material thickness. Could consider using Keenserts in the aluminum.

[@deneychuk1]

You could make countersink even deeper, and do matching countersink into the yoke, similar to how aircraft 100 deegree screws are installed. Then bigger diameter of the taper is what is load bearing.

[@cogentdynamics]

Tom, me as well as almost everyone I know have had an upper respiratory “thing”. I hope you feel perfect again soon.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Cogent. Yes feeling much better now. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@philbert006]

Well now. I have to comment twice. I have a number of years experience with sheet metal and HVAC work. That stuff for hanging insulation will never come off. It's tough. Also, there is no need to clean the metal, it will hold. Most duct work or sheet metal in general is treated with really light applications of linseed oil or something similar to prevent rust in storage and you can hang it right up in any orientation and that glue will stick forever. Also, if you do insulate ceilings, they make a tool, basically a broomstick with a ring magnet on the end that you can set the nails into after you goop them and stick em overhead then when you come back whenever the stuff dries the same tool will hold the fasteners and you can poke them right onto the pins while remaining firmly grounded.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Phillip. Thanks for the information. I was quite impressed with the adhesive in the short test I did. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@jamespittsfordiii7632]

Tom I enjoy your videos and I hope to see more of them. As a UA rigging instructor I can only assume that the handle housing was broken because the original handle was replaced. The safety device on a wire lever hoist is the handle, it bends to ensure that the hoist is not overloaded.

[@poetac15]

Just fyi he discusses the handle mechanism in the first video.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey James, Yes the original handle has been lost to eternity. The casting broke because I did not insert the alternate handle fully into the cast socket. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@marcmckenzie5110]

Hope you feel better soon, Tom. It shows your generosity that you gave us some meatloaf when you didn’t feel good.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Marc, I was on the mend at this point. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@gregfeneis609]

Lots of curious stuff this episode.

[@SnappyWasHere]

Once you do the main layer of foam insulation do another layer glued to it and offset the seams. Tape the seams in the first layer as well. Otherwise moisture and air will find the cold tin and cause issues and heat loss.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Snappy, Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@danmooney7192]

Use both and you have the best of both worlds!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Dan. I think you are on to it. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@melgross]

Generally, flat head screws are used where the metal under the head is the thickness of the head. Pretty much what you had. Then the question is whether the size screw was correct. Moving up one size would give sufficient strength for your needs. But then the head would be slightly deeper necessitating some countersinking in the aluminum. Or, screws with shortened heads could be used, if the size is available. Gary is great. He seems to be able to do everything, and seems to know everything.

[@phillipyannone3195]

That insulation should help quiet down the rain on the roof as well as help you keep a little warmer. I noticed I could see your breath in the video.😊

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Phillip. As the weather moves in we get fairly sudden temperature drops. I'm hoping the insulation will put to bed a bunch of issues. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@mattwhiteman637]

Hey Tom , how about going with type 1 but putting one on both sides then you can operate it from either side and when you need to put a bit more gronk on it you could use a fork handle which engages both sides with a handle over the centre line

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Matt. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@felixcosty]

Thanks for the video. I would use both for the come-along, but change it to an L bracket and attach the square and the rod to the L that way they can help support each other, and you can use a thicker metal for the box section. The square would hold up a lot more if it was attached to an L bracket instead of to separate pieces.

[@oxtoolco]

Yep. You are on to it! Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@felixcosty]

@@oxtoolco Was thinking some more on this part. If you make the L out of C canal it would rap around the come along part. Then make a T nut with threads that locks into the C canal, threads are for mounting all together. This design is for someone my size, so for testing you need go to 350 lb gorilla. I like to over build, most times I am doing not thinking and stuff breaks.

[@damienmiller]

46:10 my god, man - you have a lot of hammers

[@nealdietz7063]

Food for thought 🤔... Cut bottom plate off your square ⬛ replace with? 3/8 or 1/2 inch. Go to your Machinery Hand Book 📖 look up counter sink Fasteners and pick out what will work for say for 3/8" plate the 📖 book will have all your dimensions and strength. If you have room I would back nut it with a washer head lock nut. PS your strength is at the root diameter not the OD as you stated. PS when done it will be over kill but that's fine. Your other design will work fine also.

[@memyself3275]

Re streatching the threads. You do not have enough thread engagement with those bolts for aluminum. Rule of thumb for threaded holes is one and a half x diameter for steel threads and 2x diameter for aluminum. so you pulled the threads in the aluminum. Back to the video to see if you discovered this.

[@aserta]

4:58 you sure you didn't move to the Amazon rainforest?

[@calholli]

If you did pay the big money and get your shop spray foamed; it will virtually eliminate the loud rain noise; since the foam sticks to the metal. Vs putting in regular insulation, which just floats next to the sheet metal, so it can still be pretty loud. I know that spray foam is expensive, but I've never seen anyone regret spending the money once they have it done. For older worn in shops like this, the spray foam nearly doubles the value of your shop. It's just one of those buy once/ cry once deals.

[@Alcorelli1]

Absolutely true. We were able to use substantially smaller HVAC gear because of our choice to spray foam in our shop..

[@hilltopmachineworks2131]

I had spray foam in my old shop. It sealed it up great and in the winter it helped to keep the shop warm.

[@boogermcgee8148]

Put closed cell spf against tin, then open cell. The open cell is a really good sound barrier.

[@oxtoolco]

Yeah but at over $23k for spray foam and it being ugly as hell. I will be in this for less than $8K done deal. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@hilltopmachineworks2131]

@@oxtoolco Wow have prices gone up. It was $1400 to spray my 850 square foot shop back in 2005. That was for 4 inches thick.

[@waf3I]

you need some kind a rubber padding for that roof or something :D

[@oxtoolco]

Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@processagent5095]

I've found northern tule will honor their web prices in store, significant price difference, check it out. 9000 hammers and no torque wrench

[@oxtoolco]

Check out Vevor dot com. They have the hoist for $59. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@petemclinc]

Tom, you're becoming a Mr. Wizard...

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Peter. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@marcomanes3967]

Whenever possible I like to put Heli-coils in any aluminum threads.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Marco. If I can find my helicoil set I will test that too. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@itsmebernie]

Yahoo!

[@oxtoolco]

Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@davidclifford9774]

Why not make a U style bracket so you can spread the load over the whole part. It would also allow you to have both styles of handle on the winch.

[@Paul-FrancisB]

Exactly what I was thinking join the two together especially if thinking of installing both to body

[@oxtoolco]

Hey David. You are on to it. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@philbert006]

I had full confidence you would figure out the fastener issue. I could see the moment it began to pull the thread out of the aluminum block, and you probably did after reviewing the footage. I was actually getting worried that your camera was going to become a casualty of the handle to everything (including violent acts). It would not have taken much more for that handle to lose it's grip on that slug as it bent in your direction. Glad it when it did. When you were discussing in the beginning your thoughts on the differences between the two options to fasten your handle, you mentioned being able to use the handle from the back side of you choose the offset option. I feel like that would be useless, unfortunately. For one, you would be shooting your force to the wrong side of the fulcrum and I think it would simply break the whole assembly off right at the pivot. Second, if you were using it in a vertical application it would be so impractical without elevating your position that it negates any benefit. Then you factor both things together, applying force on the wrong side of the fulcrum from an elevated position, say reefing down on it from a ladder, then it seems like a guaranteed trip to the emergency room at best. I think the center line option is best, but I think either way you choose it might be wise to drill a hole through the stud so you can secure your handle with a bolt or pin or something like that. Nice to see the beloved handle making another appearance! Thanks for sharing that experiment, it was rather entertaining and a bit suspenseful, at least for me.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Phillip. All good points. This is why we test things. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@philbert006]

@@oxtoolco You are welcomed, as always, sir. But the thanks are for you. You are doing all the work. I'm just watching it and being a windbag. Your not so humble viewer Phil

[@mduvigneaud]

I don't recall if I commented on the previous video but I kinda think I got distracted and forgot to. My initial thought was that I liked option #1 a lot better because of the high moment on #2. When I saw the thinner wall and small fasteners on #1 and how much beefier you made #2 wasn't sure. If you'd welted a plate to the mounting side of #2 to double the wall thickness... I dunno. I'm a software engineer and I haven't really thought about mechanical in a whole long while. ;) [edit:] Distracted and replied before the end of the video. Heh!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Martel. I think I'm going to reprogram the mount into an integrated design. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@craigromero5921]

Any chance you would be interested in lapping and making the ends square to the od for a cylinder square I have a few wrist pins 3" x 8.5" I'll send you 2 to get 1 back 😉

[@elball5661]

Sweet!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Ball. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@eformance]

Thread pullout was about 16klbs I think.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Perry. Not too shabby. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@noelhenderson7337]

Use both but lose the countersink on option 1 and go with button head cap screws.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Noel. The handle doesn't fit if you have any head sticking up. That's why I went with the flat heads. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@Paullyb79]

Why not add wings that wrap around the parrallell edges to reduce too and fro?

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Paul. That would help but there is a reversing lever I have to avoid. I will probably combine both ideas into one. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@Paullyb79]

@@oxtoolco Would a wing on just one side be possible? Im just looking for a way to relieve the torque on those screw heads.

[@c2hh571]

Why can't you mount both of them? One will not get in the way of the other.. I like the side mount.

[@oxtoolco]

Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@urbanawoodproject3123]

I couldn't understand the comment about not putting grade 8 cap screws with grade 8 nuts. Can anyone explain that point to me?

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Urbana. I answered that question several times in the comments above. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@urbanawoodproject3123]

@@oxtoolco Thanks Tom. I had to scroll and scroll before I finally found your comment about brittleness. I *think* what you're saying is that high strength fasteners also tend to be associated with catastrophic modes of failure, so it may be better to avoid that unless you are prepared to characterize what that failure is going to look like and the safety issues involved. By the way, for me, my comment is the one at the very top, so there are no comments above ;)

[@adeeponionbrah]

Please explain the scenario of grade 8 nuts on grade 8 fasteners.

[@oxtoolco]

The short story is brittle failure. With a softer nut the nut dilates and actually reduces stress and increases the ultimate strength. High performance bolted connections are very carefully yielded for maximum fatigue and strength response. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@jsteifel]

curious why you didn't thread the steel and install the screw from the aluminum into the steel? Just do the machining w/out sound when it's loud like that and put your comments over it. We get it.

[@oxtoolco]

cos it's harder to do and I didn't think of it. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@jsteifel]

@@oxtoolco which is harder to do? Threading the steel or overdubbing the voice.. Oh never mind it was a great day having a video from you. Sitting here with a case of covid for a week and not feeling the end of it.. so every video is gold.

[@twistedfrequency]

You definitely have to search for good fasteners, most of what you see on the consumer market is junk, not sure they even meet their own sheer and tensile strengths.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Twisted. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@dcelctrl]

NorCal Swarf Rats

[@BROCKWOOD64]

As for the team; I'd go with Chip Makers over Chip Breakers. Perhaps my hearing is wrong.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Brock. I said chip breakers. This refers to a feature on a cutting tool to break chips into smaller manageable pieces. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@BROCKWOOD64]

@@oxtoolco Thanks Tom - still learning & ain't afraid to ask questions (if I can come up with a respectful approach). Also, I have Old Man Ears LOL

[@andyZ3500s]

Some kid in the 80's was going to write turbo on his tools but he was never that good at spelling.

[@ckvasnic1]

Tom, make a bracket that wraps around the yoke, incorporating both levers and you will be able to get 6 fasteners. 2 on each side of the yoke

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Chuck. That sounds like and engineer talking. How am I supposed to break that? All the best, Tom

[@jantman]

Thanks to you, I'm starting to actually look forward to Mondays!!! Thanks for another great one, Tom. I'm really enjoying all of this.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Jason. Glad to help where I can. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@v8Mercury]

I don't know... I don't trust those insulation pins until we get them hooked to the load cell and they see some testing. :) Thanks for the meatloaf.

[@oxtoolco]

Oooh! Good point! I think a test is in order. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@ew4395]

The TOOL reference was funny, I have heard it in the background on a Abomb79 video before. For me ,there is nothing more fun than a good project and TOOL blasting the shop.

[@oxtoolco]

Really? Adam is a Tool Fan? I learn something new every day. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@micmoslof1461]

Hi Tom.. two things.. 1) thank you for telling us about Gary a few years back.. I think he is just a pleasure. One of the best treats you guys share is how you think around problems and challenges, outloud, so some of get to learn.. and 2) a sort of welcome back: I have really missed your content the last few years. Somewhere in the first part of your load test I felt like you were having the kind of fun with your project that seems to have been missing since the “egress”. Thank you for sharing your world with us.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Mic. You are correct. I feel like I'm getting back in the groove and enjoying myself. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@DanielPerez-bn9bi]

Love the Danny Carey reference!

[@oxtoolco]

Maynard approves! Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@sccutlass]

Great Video! Surprised to hear you say Danny Carey, would never have guessed you listen to Tool!

[@oxtoolco]

Oh hell yes. Love me some Tool. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@twistedfrequency]

I machine a tool for a customer who has a patent, been dealing with materials and tensile strengths, one thing I think greatly effects the tensile strengths is when force is applied with an impact action introduced!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Twisted. Once you get into dynamics all this simple stuff goes out the window. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@richardellis3141]

oh yeah, so happy you are back. thanks for the lessons.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Richard. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@Cookerab]

Danny Carey reference noted....

[@oxtoolco]

Maynard loves you....Well maybe not. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@kimber1958]

That was a nice meal. Have you ever thought about wrapping it with bacon

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Kim, Everything is better with an application of bacon. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@paulbragg7618]

If you're putting that much force through the handle then you've already broken the wire and at the very least, have a perfect red line across your body. I think the handle is probably designed to break before the wire😬

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Paul. That particular come along has seen 6K lbs a full 50% overload. I can't get enough force on the handle to break the cable as seen by handle and mount failures. When in low gear the load is spread between two legs of cable. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@paulbragg7618]

@@oxtoolco thanks for the reply Tom, I'm very happy to see you back on KZbin. Stay safe dude

[@therealme613]

Wow I’m surprised you know Danny Carrey I thought you’d be more of a Buddy Rich guy

[@oxtoolco]

I'm a huge Carey fan. He is pretty amazing when you dig into the details. There is a video of him at the baked potato doing LZ No quarter that will blow your mind. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@ROBRENZ]

Enjoyed Tom! Moving the bolt holes off center toward the tensile mounting edge will decrease the bolt tensile force generated. See you Sunday. ATB, Robin

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Robin. But asymmetrical screws will haunt my inline symmetrical machinist tendencies! Looking forward to Sunday as well. All the best, Tom

[@ROBRENZ]

@@oxtoolco Ha Ha, I have the same Phobia!

[@glennstasse5698]

I watch all of Gary’s videos and they are pretty interesting. Much different than anyone else’s. He gets into stuff I never knew existed. I second the recommendation. And, halfway through the strength tests I thought why not add both handle options? What’s to loose? Looks like nots and bolts are the way to go, though. Stay dry while Gene Krupa practices on your roof.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Glenn. I will probably put both handles on the thing once I get around to it. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@eyuptony]

Interesting the stress testing using the dyno gauge, never seen one before. I'd say the thin countersunk plate acted like a sheer cutting blade under the screw head. I'd be a bit weary of drilling and fixing across the narrow alloy bridging section and applying force to it. You could make the new mounts to fit on one L shape back which fits the L contour of your pull along. So you have the side fixing strength aiding the centre pull with it only being a narrow mount. If you know what I mean Tom. Enjoyed the video and the technical info. Tony

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Tony. Yes I followed your idea. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@tobybishop8895]

Hi Tom. Thanks for sharing this episode. Regarding the pins for the insulation above 8' : the stem of the pin is a tiny cold bridge to the outside temperature so the tip of the pin is always going to be slightly colder than the surrounding insulation. Any moisture in the shop air will condense on the pin tips and you could get rows of drips coming down. I had this from the roof of my old garage until I covered the exposed protruding nail ends with more insulation. Just cut small squares of your foam and glue them over the pin ends and washers. Cheers Toby

[@AWDJRforYouTube]

It's 10:30am EST so meatloaf for breakfast is fine for us oxen.

[@oxtoolco]

You want french fries with that meatloaf? Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@AWDJRforYouTube]

@@oxtoolco Yep, lol!

[@hankus253]

Tom can you go into the Grade 8 bolt with Grade 8 nut vs Grade 5 nut a little more. Do you want the yield on the nut for a particular reason?

[@thomashornerjr.6616]

Second that. I haven’t heard that one before (that doesn’t mean much!). Please enlighten us!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Hankus. When the nut dilates as in softer nut than bolt the load is spread out over a larger area and the stress actually decreases. When you have hard on hard the failure mode is brittle fracture which is just what you don't want in a bolted joint. This is also why high performance bolted connections are yielded very carefully to realize their full potential. Hope that helps. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@thomashornerjr.6616]

Thanks Tom - I was thinking along those lines when you mentioned it in the video, though more so about the brittle fracture than the deformation. Makes sense!

[@briantaylor9266]

Enjoying having you back. So here's my $0.02 worth on your come-along repair. Mill off the busted socket. Fabricate a steel yoke to wrap around the aluminum yoke. Suggest about 3/16" for the legs and 3/8" for the cross piece. Weld your handle sockets/stubs to the new yoke. Use the socket screws to fasten the steel yoke to the aluminum sides and through-bolt the top (if space permits). The socket screws shearing is not a bad thing - they are the weak link protecting the rest of the assembly. Coincidentally, yesterday I was putting some pretty good gronk on a couple of come-alongs with the intent of bringing down a tree that was hung up on its neighbor.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Brian. You are on to something. The two systems can share a common mount that improves both. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Nice Meatloaf Testing. Nice seeing you at the M & G. Enjoy the "Knocker" be sure to check out the engraving. Good insulation method.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Buddy. First thing I did after the video was use a pipe wrench to take the brass cap off. I really needed to see what was under there. All the best, Tom

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

@@oxtoolco At least you used the proper tool 😂😂

[@dannymaciejewski]

Danny Carey 🤘🏻

[@oxtoolco]

Maynard agrees! Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@v8packard]

From one Tool fan to another, thanks for the video. When I saw you testing the first mount, I was thinking you were loading a tension mount in shear. Someone once told me single shear was really a tension application. But I thought hmm I wonder what would happen if you had it bolted in shear, then tested it.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey V8. Maynard says shear.....Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Life is returning to normal with a meatloaf every Monday. The hoist "T" handle should use bolts with nuts on the back side. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Harold. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@bcbloc02]

Now we need the test done with helicoils to see how much extra the steel thread inserts add to the strength!

[@cogentdynamics]

In that aluminum, I assume a casting I would use Helecoils also.

[@sleepib]

Assuming half inch bolt limited by the strength of the aluminum, helicoil should be about 20~25% stronger, it's similar to just using a slightly larger bolt. The pitch diameter goes from about .452" to about .552" for 1/2" - 13

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Brian. Thanks for stopping by. I was going to do the helicoils but I have not found my stash of them at the new shop. It would be tragic to have to buy some that I know I have somewhere in this mess. All the best, Tom

[@TheRealFOSFOR]

I've been using those chain hoists in my job forever... I do all kinds of stuff with them. Pull and bend, lift and twist.. mostly pipes. If I need a to get a pipe or something similar really close to something .. i mean closer than the length of the hoist itself... Then I just make a loop around the two things (pipe and quite often another pipe).

[@oxtoolco]

Good one! Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@boogermcgee8148]

Paint or cover spray foam if you go that way for insulation. The sunlight will break it down overtime.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Booger. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@MrDTruman889]

Never would have guessed that Mr. Bozo was a Tool fan. Love the videos, I have learned so much from you.

[@oxtoolco]

Oh hell yes. I've had Fear Inoculum in my CD player for the better part of a year! Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@Deezle_Gaming]

Yeah, I wasn't expecting a Tool reference either.

[@calholli]

That's interesting: So the angle for those tapered machine screws, typically turn it into a cutting blade. I think you would be better off just using regular bolts, but grind down the heat fairly thin, so you can still insert the handle (of course)-- but then you get the full shear of a larger bolt, and the thickness of you drilled hole can keep the entire sidewall, rather than the taper.

[@stuarthardy4626]

or make the base thicker to get more of the thread in the steel as Tom eluded to in the redesign

[@calholli]

@@stuarthardy4626 Right; that gives it a thickness on the actual shaft. So that's the real take away here; the thickness of the material needs to be thicker than the taper of the screwhead. (at least on high stress situations)

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Calholli, Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@kevindavis6042]

Either way you were pushing upwards of about 900 ft lbs of torque The fact that the bolt sheared off at THAT much torque is rather impressive

[@oxtoolco]

Exactly! That was a #10 flat head cap screw. Many folks missed the fact that basically one tiny little machine screw held a considerable amount of torque. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@kevindavis6042]

@@oxtoolco that alone can be a fail safe for the future so you don't have to deal with this issue in the future

[@waf3I]

the more holes you drill in the come along the more the structural integrity will become compromised won't it?

[@oxtoolco]

All design is a compromise. Yes the holes weaken it but bolting a steel doubler plate to it also makes it stronger. The yin and yang of mechanical design. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@jamesreed6121]

That's pretty interesting, the fastener testing. I look forward to the final come-along design. I going to look into the small chain hoist. I think I could use one. The meatloaf keeps on getting better. KOKO!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey James. Those little chain hoists are the bomb., Check out Vevor dot com. They have them for $59. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@PaulSteMarie]

Congratulations! You've created a giant version of the bolt cutters you see on crimp tools. You could probably shear off the screw without any help from the socket. Assuming that flange on the post version is 1" wide, you've got a 66:1 mechanical advantage, or 16,500 lbs of tension on those flange screws. If those are 5/16” screws with ½" of thread engagement, that's about 0.5 sq in, or 33,000 psi, and a quick Google search turns up 30,000 psi as the shear strength for 6061.

[@TheOnlyPsycho]

May I recommend checking out the Kito LX lever hoist, the 250kg has a minimum headroom of only 205mm, they are probably really expensive if bought locally, but ordering them straight from Japan, they cost about half, at least in Europe. I got my 0.5t from a Japanese eBay seller.

[@joegarrett5221]

While NorCal Chip Breakers is great, I'm thinking there are more than just machinists in the group. How about something along the lines of NorCal Metal Maulers...

[@hasletjoe5984]

If the breaking point is beyond the current capacity of the user, might have to have more beers and BBQ to get up to snuff for the equipment provided. In the name of science/Utoob videos! Get to feeling better, appreciate the videos. Thanks

[@Thunderbelch]

The next question on the come-along handle is where do you want your fuse. Repairing a sheared off screw or a ripped out thread is no fun whereas putting bigger fasteners on that first design means you replace a simple piece of square tubing if you over-gronk it.

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Enjoyed Tom, I sure like that little hoist! Nice seeing everyone at the M & G.. Hope you feel better soon, It's been a brutal C&F season. Enjoyed the testing and interesting results...See you next Monday ATB...

[@oxtoolco]

Oh yeah. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@MartinRodriguez-yr4gf]

Wow, there are a lot of engineers out there. Thank you Tom, no suggestions from me!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Martin. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@Kebmoz]

I'd love to hear further explanation or discussion on the comment regarding why a Gr.8 screw should not be used with a Gr.8 nut.

[@incubatork]

I think with the first test the baseplate was acting as a guilatin on the small bolt, especially being countersunk. The second option, probably my choice seamed ok. Strangely enough the thin nylon strap held better than both 😆

[@mbs1234567]

Tool!

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Mike. Maynard loves you. On second thought he probably doesn't. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@markkrick8602]

Do Both, just a bit more time.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Mark. Now you're talking. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@C2DSolutions]

Why not install flat head screw from the inside of the lever hoist arm, thru the bracket and use nuts and washers on the outside of the bracket? You could tap into the "post" part of the bracket to get a third screw.

[@mfletch392]

You stay positive and stay safe my Internet friend please look after yourself; fletch from the UK

[@davidmott2090]

Pray you feel better Tom. Thanks for the great content.

[@oxtoolco]

Hey Dave. At the point I made this video I was on the mend. All good now. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom