Monoprice Mini Select V2 heat bed cable replacement

[@128ajb_02_Music]

Mine's Bowden coupler failed meaning I needed to replace it which lead to a full extruder feeder replacement. Now the cable is doing this. Glad you have this.

[@brennonr]

Love it! I like the side hole better than the pane replacement as well

[@X1Falcon]

Hey Frank, I have the same drill press you have in this video. That ugly green Chicago Electric, way to fast, but very useful drill press from Harbor Freight. I have a small knife shop in a shed and that thing works great for me after all these years. By the way, love your videos. I’m new to 3D printing and these help so much.

[@Franks3Dshop]

Thank you very much, that drill press and the grinder were my grand father’s, the travel is too short for my taste, but fills my needs. And great for the knife shop, would like that someday too. Need some diamond sharpening stones...

[@vanessabruce4251]

Thanks for your video, Frank. I can't seem to find 18 and 24 gauge wire to replace worn wires. What other size would you recommend?

[@koz]

Good to see another new video for this important fix. By the way, at [11:41] be careful moving the bed so fast. It can generate a current in the motors and send it back to the board. (I have seen the LCD screen light up with the power off, when moving it fast)

[@Franks3Dshop]

Thanks, I know, still works but you are quite right.

[@DFDuck55]

You can see the LED on the dial lighting up in this video a few times while he's moving the bed and it's not plugged in.

[@Franks3Dshop]

Y’a I do not worry to much about it, never broke anything yet that way. In theory it’s possible and even if the printer is powered on it could be the case too. I get carried away while filming!

[@fiddlermikey]

Thank you, Frank. I suspect this mod is in my near future.

[@sellgooddeals-DIY]

Thank you for making this video. I am going to tackle this project next week.

[@sesameskeet03]

Your video and advice has been very helpful. The new Prusa looks nice, but for the price the flaws on the monoprice are'nt that bad. If your an enthusiast or print bigger stuff, you should probally get the prusa though.

[@Franks3Dshop]

Yes the Prusa is nice, would love a MK3, and I am building a clone, an Haribo Edition from scratch, we will see how it does, and I will also try the TMC2130 drivers to have some of the advantages of the MK3. It's a learning experience for me.

[@reevesjustin]

I appreciate your hard work. I plan on buying one of theses now

[@DFDuck55]

I haven't had this problem.. yet. Because my Mini Select is still in the box. But, just yesterday I finished all my other projects and now I'm going to set the printer up. I like the printed side cover piece for two reasons; 1. The extra vent holes, could even add a small fan in there. 2. It looked like there was less bending of the cable at the back of the bed with the printed cover than there is with the stock metal one with hole drilled.

[@Franks3Dshop]

I see your point, either is good I think, I could also make slots on the original panel with the CNC, not sure if it would be able to since it’s harder than aluminium. There is already a fan on the back and holes underneath, but more is better in this case. In do not worry to much about it, if the board went dead, I would by a cheap remplacement board and screen and make a Frankenstein out of it :-)

[@GuilerBettinger]

7:56 the littler wires wit the plastic connector you already had…where would you get that assembled like you had and what would it be called??

[@franscartoons]

I have a V2 (euro version) and the wiring under the bed is completely different to this. I think they must have upgraded it.

[@jimwjohnq.public]

Will this bed wire mod work on the V1? I was in the middle of a print and my V1 died. No power. When I manually move the bed, there is one spot where the power comes on for a split second and then nothing. So it sounds like the bed wiring is the culprit.

[@X1Falcon]

Great video. Thanks Frank. I modded mine after my bed heat died.

[@codewithrails]

Great video. Thanks! Just a question. Do you have to replace and resolder the cable if it wasn't frayed/broken?

[@Franks3Dshop]

Hi, I personally waited until I saw signs of problem, that way Incan show some extremes. But you risk shorting the heater wires and fry the output on the board. I think it’s probably the worst scenario. In my case the temperature sensor was giving readings in the 6000. But probably you will have a bed that does not go to temperature before that.

[@AGNEXO93]

Thank you, you save my mini v2; saludos desde Colombia!

[@ralfkraemer3646]

Great, have already recreated it! Thank you!

[@MrBofB]

Hi Frank. My Mini is 6-7 weeks old, V2. I thought I'd do the reroute before the wires actually did stop working. It's easy to do and didn't take long. But after completing this the temp gage is now reading 234 then 426 then 375, constantly changing. Do you know what would now cause the gage to fluctuate and misread? Thanks for any help.

[@Franks3Dshop]

Hi, it looks like an almost broken cable, like if the individuals threads of wires were all cut but one inside the insulation. If you want to be sure, you can switch thermistors plugs of the nozzle and bed only to test the readout, do not start the printer heaters like that and do not leave it inverted or you could start a fire... if the bad reading is also reversed, you know the board is good and that you have a bad cable or thermistor on the bed. Remember, DO NOT START HEATING with the thermistors inverted... label everything to be sure to replace the cables at the correct position and stay next to the printer next time you start it, just to be extra safe.

[@MrBofB]

Thank you Frank!

[@ken_newman]

Great Video!! Just what I needed

[@cothmy]

Does the wire have to be thermistor or thermostat wire? Or any old wire? I have a lot of questions

[@kotaeatu]

I'm doing a similar version to this, although I drilled some holes in mine, and I can't get the solder to release the old wires. Is it not hot enough? it's a 100 watt soldering gun, looks just like yours actually.

[@Franks3Dshop]

Hi, it should be more than enough, sometimes getting some new solder on the iron before heating the joint helps.

[@shabuyamorningstar]

solid wire work? or should i use stranded since the wire will be moving alot?

[@Franks3Dshop]

Hi, stranded wire for sure, you could use wires for cars, the type that goes from the door to the car. The more flexible they are, the better, respect the gage size.

[@toshlarue]

You have a video of how to get the belt tension or install it? No matter what I do I can not figure out how to install a new belt for bed.

[@Franks3Dshop]

No I do not, I have put it on my suggestion list for videos.

[@toshlarue]

@@Franks3Dshop I ender up finding the belt diagram. Took for ever to find. All working again ty

[@dchamas]

Hi Frank, after doing the fix the bed temp just rises non-stop. I havent soldered, just twisted the wires... is this a reason for this issue? thanks!

[@Franks3Dshop]

Does it start heating on it’s own? If yes, your output mosfet maybe bad. I presume you turned the printer OFF and ON? Check your connections, put some tape on them at least. I do not know what could happen if mix up the cables or if they short out on one another, nothing good I think. Make sure you do not have a short.

[@PhAtlPrints]

You saved my mini!!!

[@teamtrinity1474]

where could i find the correct 18 gauge wire to fix this? also could you not just cut the wires at the heated bed and at the board and then solder on both ends rather than unplugging everything else?

[@Franks3Dshop]

Yes you can also just remove the side panel and do the cut like you said, in my case I was curious to see the inside :-) For the cable, you can go to Radio Shack (The source) speaker wires should be OK or search for Amazon for « 18 awg wires », use only multi-strand wires.

[@chloejackson-reynolds418]

I actually got mine from a broken computer psu

[@Franks3Dshop]

Good thinking !

[@tommymcguire6014]

hey frank, thanks for the video, i got one question for you, and the others readin the blog, my bed is heatin properly, but the temperature on the the screen is not right// temp goes from 27 to 51 in 2 seconds and comes back to 27 in less than 5 seconds.. i cant figure it out.. anyone?

[@Franks3Dshop]

No clue for that one... Did you make any modifications ?

[@LIONELMESSI-fg3vn]

Great video as always! 👌

[@gothmaniow]

awesome !! and so easy to follow thanks Frank ;)

[@Franks3Dshop]

Thank you for your kind words, helps me to continue my work.

[@curiosity2314]

There is a need for a printed part for the bed or with all the movement you will be in the same place just a different place of failure. :)..

[@Franks3Dshop]

I did print that part, but it did not fit. I asked myself the same question, and after looking at the cables movements, since my cables are long enough, there is no movement near the bed where the cables are soldered. So I decided to leave them as is. And it’s been many hours of print later and no problem.

[@joelhuebner]

Good video, nice understandable instructions. 5 *****

[@louis-philippesamson16]

Salut Frank, j'ai un monoprice mini et je veut mettre du filament de 3mm , comment faire? Merci d'avance!

[@Franks3Dshop]

Salut, il faut modifier tout le chemin que prends le filament pour du 3mm, y compris l'extrudeur, c'est assez compliquer et la mini est bonne pour imprimer de petite pièces et vu la grandeur du banc ne peut pas imprimmer très rapidement à cause des accélérations limitées par la grandeur du banc, le 3mm n'aurait pas d'avantage selon moi.

[@louis-philippesamson16]

@@Franks3Dshop Merci.

[@paulcumber4732]

How you been doing Frank

[@Franks3Dshop]

Good good! On vacation again :-)

[@Hawk1966]

Nice video. I'm starting to see the wacky temp readings. This sucks. I don't think I have the dexterity left to do this. Got no tools thanks to a thieving brother-in-law. I'm screwed.

[@Franks3Dshop]

May I suggest that you look at this video, the way I do it requires no soldering and less dexterity I think: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mmG7ZmRurLp9ipI

[@Hawk1966]

Thanks for the reply but my MP Mini issue is the heat bed problem you addressed in the video above. You linked to a hot end fan replacement.

[@Franks3Dshop]

Sorry for the mix up not enough coffee I guess! I do not have an easier way for the bed...

[@Hawk1966]

No worries. I was planning on a new printer now it's just the sooner than later. Just got to dig out enough room. Want a 50lb color laser printer? 😀

[@4funrc11]

Geez! I dunno why but I thought they fixed that with version 2 (V2). LOL!

[@Franks3Dshop]

A friend had a V2, but he has to return it because of the power plug that was intermittent...

[@4funrc11]

×Frank's 3D shop Bugger. But do you know if the new V2 has fixed the bed cable wiring problem? Sorry to keep asking, but I've read somewhere, by someone the problem was fixed and I'm trying to confirm. You know, too much posted just isn't actually true. People posting answers to things that they haven't experienced. Crazy.

[@Franks3Dshop]

We did not think of checking if there was some difference, for sure the cables were still under the bed not outside... Sorry.

[@paulholzworth4666]

I have a V2 that I sent back to Monoprice because the thermistor reading became intermittent (reads 999) and the heat bed stopped heating. They had it for about a month. I have had it back now for about a month and the thermistor is starting to act up again. No plans to ship it back this time. I will probably do Frank's mod. I have also heard of people using wires with silicone insulation which seems to be more flexible and less brittle.

[@heidenburg5445]

lovely printer but holy damn they did a bad job with this cable from the factory

[@Zarhbtw]

What do I do if I don't have any of the tools to complete the fix?

[@Franks3Dshop]

You can buy a cheap solder iron and some tools on AliExpress for really cheap, just bought this solder iron and it work great www.aliexpress.com/item/32434337822/32434337822.html I think that for the bed the wires needs to be soldered.

[@curiosity2314]

Punt.. :)

[@TheSevenUpMan]

Hi Frank, you used this side panel? www.thingiverse.com/thing:2451362

[@Franks3Dshop]

Yes exactly, and for the front part, you have to follow the original link in the description, this is a remix of the back part...

[@Franks3Dshop]

The front part is here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1712796