Mopar 8.75 Rebuild with New Sure Grip Install (True Spirit #27)

As part of my restoration of my 1974 Power Wagon, I'm putting new bearings in the 8.75 rear end along with changing the gear ratio. While I'm at it, I might as well add a Sure-Grip so it drives better in the snow.
Pinion/yoke wrench tool: amzn.to/46rWF2T

[@JonnyMopar]

One of the greatest videos I’ve ever seen. The distance from camera to the parts, the lighting, the audio and the clarity in explanation was all spot on.

[@normp3273]

I agree. If I was a high school shop teacher I would show this video to my class. To me this is teaching 101. Just facts, straight to the point and no unnecessary babble. Nice one!

[@cheapandeasymods]

So, I was watching UTG and your video popped up after his. I watch the whole thing Awesome Job!! I'm kind of wanting to do that to my 66 Charger! I feel a little bit more confident now! Thank you so much for the video and looking forward to getting caught up on all your other videos!!

[@JonnyMopar]

Thanks cheap and easy. I appreciate the kind words.

[@YODAMAN5]

AWESOME vied....love how you talk with your hands....MOPAR 4 EVER.

[@DoctorTorque]

Some people heat the ring gear in an oven to get it to slip onto the carrier. When I was doing the Dana 30 I rebuilt last summer, I left the ring gear out in the sun, and the carrier in the garage, and it slipped right in place. Of course, don't heat it too much, maybe 200 degrees f, and don't burn yourself.

[@budlanctot3060]

I've had "41" carrier in my bracket Dart for like 40+years. It's a warmed over 340 4spd car with 3.91 gears. It's run 13.0's @104mph. I have run slicks on it, too. It's never been a problem for me, it shouldn't be for you, either.

[@KevinIsenor]

Completely agree with JonnyMopar - great video, absolutely one of the best I've seen. Thanks so very much. You absolutely will be subscribed to and bookmarked! Are there any gotchas if rebuilding a 657?

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

I've not specifically done a 657, but I suspect there's not much difference. I will say that if it has a crush sleeve (I don't recall if 657s do), I would get a crush sleeve eliminator from Dr. Diff.

[@roberthammond4642]

I’ve got a 2011 dodge ram 1500 with a 5.7 hemi four-wheel-drive driver side bearing is bad. I went to replace it and I can’t get the pin to come out on the driver side shaft any suggestions?

[@raysimon1368]

That was a good job going through the set up of the rear but i have never set one up that didn't start off with at least a .060 pinion shim yours did not have one so your pinion depth is not right and it shows after you applied your marking grease if you put ashim under the pinion and re check your marking compound i bet it will be center

[@CatastrophicFarms]

Great video. Just to be clear, that's red loctite on the ring gear bolts, correct? Would red be very difficult to heat up in this application if you ever had to remove the ring? Since getting direct heat on them would be hard. Or am I overthinking this?

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

Yes, it's red. An impact gun or breaker bar takes it apart easily without heat.

[@daveburn71]

Blue loc-tite is my personal choice. Has more than enough holding power and doesn't damage the treads during the future removal. Red loctite is overkill.

[@mimaspa1234]

thats a pain in the ass with those shims

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

Still easier than a Dana 44

[@michellebaxter1403]

741 is stronger then everyting minus dana 60..

[@joetucker8582]

I honestly feel like I understand voodoo now, good-bye auburn with 290s. Awesome video, removed a lot of fear of doing this myself.

[@icetech6]

now set one up for me thanks .. 3.73 or 3.91 please :)

[@PeckerwoodKustoms]

Great vid man...very helpful...quick question though.... If you put the paint on the ring gear and the positioning of the pinion is NOT perfect ( you lucked out there )...where is the adjustment to move the wear pattern up and down and in and out? Can you give some advice for this? Im keen to get the same parts for my 741 and have a go, and advice from folk that have done it is priceless....Thanks

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

If it's not right, you have to add either adjust it with the adjustment rings (for backlash, which is up/down) or remove/add shims under the pinion to adjust in/out

[@PeckerwoodKustoms]

@@YoshimoshiGarage doesn’t that mess up the backlash or do you basically start that from scratch after you adjust it ? Sorry for the seemingly stupid questions

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

Not a stupid question at all. It will change backlash, but not much. You definitely need to check both after adding pinion shims, but it shouldn't change nearly as much as it moves the pattern

[@michellebaxter1403]

Dont install seal before you set pinion depth.

[@jp-yu7iq]

I thought the video was great thanks for posting it. I realize the marking compound confirmed a proper setup. I may have missed any discussion about pinion depth. Do you usually check under the old pinion bearing for shims? Or do you use the measuring jig that goes underneath the caps? I thought everything was covered very well except for that.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

I start with the same shims I take out, then adjust from there

[@toddmillican1926]

Wish this was out there a year ago. Based on recommendations, when I did mine, I bought extra pinion bearings, ground down inner surfaces, so they were slip fit on pinion. Made removal and shimming much faster. A waste of money if you would never rebuild one again, but I have a couple spares that I will do, so the extra cost seems sensible. A great video, thank you.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

I've seen that same recommendation but honestly, after half a dozen times, you get pretty quick at it, so unless I was doing these every day, I think I'd still just use the press. I'd misplace the special ground bearing between uses anyway

[@brenna2100]

Great Video !! , I've done a few rear ends over the years GM 10 bolt 12 Bolts / Pontiac 9.3 / Ford 9 " .... About to do a Mopar . Question is where are you putting the shims for the pinion depth / behind the bearing or bearing race ??

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

Between the gear and bearing

[@geralddrury4829]

Lot of work for a 741 case! JMO!

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

A 741 is plenty strong enough for a half ton truck with a close-to-stock engine.

[@damnimcooltom1]

You're gonna get some hate for the 9" comment. Hopefully they blow up your comment section. That would be sweet.

[@pdiz]

You rock with your teaching style. Makes me think I could tackle it. Okay, really dumb, dumb question... Those bearings you pressed in, they don't need to be pre-greased/packed first like a wheel bearing because they will be swimming in gear oil, right?

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

Yes, they'll be in gear lube their whole lives. And you can definitely do it.

[@pdiz]

@@YoshimoshiGarage But if one did do it, would they use wheel bearing grease to pack? I think I'll just copy you and just assemble without, so I don't mix greases and oils, and not try to fix an issue that isn't one.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

If you did want to grease them, use an oil-soluble grease like transmission assembly lube

[@GKirkland1]

Great video. Almost like I was back in shop class. Well thought out. Editing was spot on.

[@shanemcmillion159]

Thank you for your time and information

[@chiefexecutive]

Ugh. I jacked mine up over night and it started leaking. It’s a 742. I was wondering how difficult it would be to replace a gasket. I was hoping this wouldn’t get too technical

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

The gasket is pretty easy. Pull the wheels and drums off. Take off the flange nuts and pull the axles out 4-6 inches or so. Then take all the diff nuts off and it drops right out.

[@cbop7588]

What is the name of the adjustable press tool which you show at 19:32? I would like to know where to buy one but I am unable to find it.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

It's called a "bearing separator tool". Here's one from Amazon, but you can pick them up at several places: amzn.to/42qeAVe

[@DoctorTorque]

Snow, schmow...

[@GTSdartman]

What is the tool you are using at 3:10 to get the pinion nut off?

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

I added a link to the one I used in the video description.

[@joshuawalton8179]

There's a good possibility your bearings are going to fail. And that's a risky way to install the ring gear. If you're careful you can get away with it. But I wouldn't recommend it. It will be interesting to see how long it lasts.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

I'm interested to know why you think the bearings are going to fail

[@joshuawalton8179]

@@YoshimoshiGarage I have 2 concerns. Both of them are related to the same practice. My first concern is pressing the inner race on by pushing on the outer race. I was taught and read this practice risks causing flat spots on the rollers or the races causing premature failure. The other time I was concerned was when you torqued the pinion to the point the bearings wouldn't rotate, even under force. I don't think you're facing rapid failure, but the one time I did that (in an electric motor not a differential) the bearings only lasted 2 years when they should have lasted indefinitely. I may have also done something else wrong that caused the failure, there were definitely flat spots on the races when I removed them and inspected them. I also know we can get away with a lot of improper technique. Is the differential in service yet? I would like to see if the installation technique is that important. Those are my thoughts. I did do some quick research and I did not find these warnings, but they also did not direct installing them that way. So, I may be operating on old information.

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

I think both are valid concerns, but here's my thinking on them (for what that's worth). First, the bearing goes on pretty easily, and that load is getting spread across all of the rollers. My hope/belief is that there wasn't nearly enough pressure there to cause deformation of the bearings or races. I hold out the same hope for the pre-load situation. The axle is mounted in the frame, but I'm still a long way from running this. I'm still assembling the chassis and have the entire body to do after that.

[@joshuawalton8179]

@@YoshimoshiGarage in a static condition your most likely only pushing on 3 rollers (like a 3 legged stool). And the majority of the force is vertically through the roller only about a third will transition to the long side of the roller. The more I think about it the more I think it will be fine. I would just keep a closer than normal look out for play in the pinion bearings so you catch before they hurt anything if they do fail.

[@gregrhein1632]

Great Video - no fluff and all the stuff! Thanks! Have a question am going from 3.23 to 3.73 on a 741 case as well. On mine, in between the lower bearing and the bottom of the pinion I had a HUGE shim (like 2.36mm) I noticed you didn't yours that far down nor did you put anything between the pinion and the lower bearing...I am just confused... should I put it back or not?

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

I'm not clear on where you're talking. A shim that sets the pinion depth (between the pinion gear and bearing), or between the bearing and the yoke?

[@gregrhein1632]

@@YoshimoshiGarage pinon and the bearing...

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

Between the pinion gear and bearing sets depth. If the marking paste shows contact out by the edge of the gear, you need to add shims to put it in the middle. I lucked out and mine was right when assembled

[@gregrhein1632]

@@YoshimoshiGarage Gotcha, Many Thanks, Again!

[@moparballz5463]

all you need to do is mark one cap, you only have 2

[@YoshimoshiGarage]

Orientation is also important, not just which side they go on.