Morris Minor Service Guide - Daily/Weekly Checks

[@edsworld4550]

Top tip for you. Stand your mobile phone up behind your car and set the camera to record. Then test your lights and play it back. I do this on my car and with trailers. Keep up the good work👍

[@ryderc89]

Another tip for checking brake lights on your own, is wedge something between the driver's seat and the brake pedal to hold the pedal down. It's handy for tracing wiring issues / corroded connections etc as well. Also worth remembering that you'll have an immediate warning of indicator problems if they start flashing faster than usual, or not at all, on the tell tale on the stalk. If that starts flashing abnormally then it's a sign to check your external bulbs. Final reminder from me (not so much a service item as an 'in use' item) is that the brake lights, indicators, wipers, fuel gauge, and heater fan are all on the same fuse. So if driving along and one of those stops working, check the other things work. Odds are it's a supply issue, so if your fuel gauge has dropped to Empty and your wipers don't work, beware, you've got no brake lights or indicators! Perhaps that's an idea for a future series, basic/common fault finding and diagnosis?

[@rydermike33]

Very helpful video. Many thanks from a fellow MM owner.

[@ukspindoctor]

Fab vid. Looking forward to the next service film!

[@sheilalucas9154]

Hi, Just bought a Traveller, so this video was brilliant for me.Looking forward to watching them all.Thank you.

[@lucythemoggy1970]

very well presented. the fact that you tell people the sizes of spanners etc needed is a big bonus

[@michaelcrossland8683]

Great tips good filming gives us a good understanding, gives me confidence to tackle these jobs. Thankyou

[@davidanderson8407]

Good clear instructions. The use of voice over was a good idea. Will be interesting to see the next video. Hope the house is coming on well.

[@louise348]

Wow thank you! As a newbie this is so helpful x

[@bengray6219]

I'm looking to get a Morris Minor so this video was great. Good to know the small basic things to do.

[@thefatfrierunleshed]

Oh excellent! Im glad that the video is going to be useful!

[@1963TOMB]

Good video with nice clear instructions. I don't personally check the level in the brake master cylinder as it means carpets rolled back etc. Just check that the brake pedal goes firm after a few pumps and does not travel greater than expected. Then just check that there is no fluid present around the area behind each wheel that may indicate a fluid leak, I also think that taking the top off the master cylinder regularly has the potential of introducing damp air, although some say that the three flexible hoses introduce damp air! Keep up the good work.

[@andrewnelson6183]

Great tutorial, look forward to the next one

[@shaundorney5342]

Marvellous. Thanks very much

[@thefatfrierunleshed]

Im glad you enjoyed!

[@lucythemoggy1970]

this vid is awesome! can't wait for the rest!

[@thefatfrierunleshed]

Thank you! Im glad you enjoyed!

[@lucythemoggy1970]

@@thefatfrierunleshed i was watching your heater repair vid last night. When you replaced the foam with that piece of rubber, where did you get the rubber and wot type? Need to overhaul mine.

[@thefatfrierunleshed]

Michael Hudson I think it was a piece of 3mm rubber used as damp coursing that I used. It was something I had lying around that I could use. I think B&Q will sell it

[@lucythemoggy1970]

@@thefatfrierunleshed awesome cheers bud

[@bumblemorris9612]

Brilliant thank you 👍 looking forward to more tutorials.

[@OverlandAustraliaAdventures]

Hi there hope you might be able to help, I am working on a project with some comparisons in charging systems in early vehicles to later models, what I am after is an image of the service schedule in relation to battery maintenance & charging. I understand that the booklet states the battery should be recharged at the service, are you or someone from the channel able to provide an image of the page. Many thanks

[@craigpests_channel]

Are we getting any more parts of this service series? I really want to watch them

[@thefatfrierunleshed]

Once I have sorted my computer out. Moving to a new computer and my footage is still stuck on the old one so its a bit of a pain. my aapologies

[@Scrubworks]

The only real additive you need to look for when choosing oil is the level of zinc or ZDDP. The more of that the better, as it's needed to protect the bearings. Low detergent blends are also preferable, but that's pretty much all 20W50 oils anyway. I can't find any solid information on the level of ZDDP in Comma Classic, sources seem to say between 800ppm, which is a bit low, and 1100ppm, which is about ideal. I use Duckhams which is 1100ppm, and because Ducks are cool. As for coolant, you *can* use the green stuff. Just make sure it says on the bottle that it's ok to use in older engines and you'll be absolutely fine. I've been using Prestone green coolant in several classic engines for years and it works absolutely fine. Colour is not always a good metric for coolant unfortunately because of different brands and standards over the years.

[@henryainsley3814]

zoned out and thought i was watching wheeler dealers for a sec lad

[@craigpests_channel]

5:10 typo?

[@thefatfrierunleshed]

Drat! and I thought i caught them all. Apologies, my spelling has never been a strong suit of mine

[@EngineVids]

They only leak oil if it has the original seals/gaskets in, no surprise as they are over 40 years old my brit cars don't leak at all

[@Scrubworks]

The north-south version of the A-Series has no rear main seal for the crankshaft. Instead the rear of the crank has a scroll that pushes the oil back into the crank case. That works fine when the engine is running, but when it stops, oil dripping down from the head will make its way out onto the ground. Apparently even in the showrooms, Morris Minors had drip trays under them.

[@EngineVids]

@@Scrubworks if morris minors had drip trays under them in the showroom then no one would buy them, sounds made up to me🤔.

[@thefatfrierunleshed]

@@EngineVids Unfortunately its true, it was a well known thing to poke fun of at the time. There's a good few photos of it. The scroll seal is a well known nuisance and is where my car leaks, as well as the sump which im going to drop and clean in the summer as part of this series.

[@EngineVids]

@@thefatfrierunleshed i have had stationary engines with no crank seals and they never leaked and they were far older.

[@aguyfromthe60s7]

Collent? 😂😂