Motorcycle Hydraulic Brake System Flush Tips | MC Garage

[@morganhodge6760]

This is the best brake bleed video I've ever seen. Real tips, no BS, and a very thorough, detailed explanation of everything. Very well done.

[@AaronColton93]

Thank you! I am happy to help!

[@adjbob56]

If you don't want to remove the bleed nipple to wrap with Teflon tape, it helps to brush brake grease around where the brake nipple screws into the caliper. Also put some where tube connects to bleed nipple. If you don't have brake grease (like Sil-Glyde Silicone Brake Lubricant) you can use any other grease (wheel bearing, lithium assembly lube, etc) because it is external to the brake system and will be wiped away when you are done. THEN when you use the mity vac or similar tool to "suck" and create a vacuum, and crack open the bleeder nipple, you only get fluid and any bubbles that were in the brake line. You eliminate all the air that shoots in from around the threads and from a poorly sealing hose attached to the bleeder nipple. Makes a night and day difference. Aaron rocks - great video. This dude is an amazing stunt rider, seen him do a stoppie all down the block.

[@ralphwaters8905]

Great presentation Aaron; very well prepared and nicely executed. I've used grease on my bleeders to keep air out, but I think you've convinced me to switch to TFE tape. An ABS system will in general not change this procedure. DOT3/4 fluid should really be flushed annually unless you live in the desert. I use a pneumatic venturi-type vacuum pump ($20) with a glass catch jar for this, and control the vacuum with a valve on the air line. A MityVac hand pump ($35) is pretty good too, and less hassle to set up. Suck the reservoir empty and refill with fresh fluid to start. If you can then open the bleeder and compress your caliper pistons fully, you will empty the caliper and get a more thorough bleed, but this must be done carefully to avoid damaging the rotor, etc. Also skip this if you suspect any rust on your caliper pistons. This should be easier with the vacuum system on to assist (I've not tried this yet). For those of you who also work on cars 🤦‍♂️, be aware that the rubber cups in hydraulic clutches and drum brake cylinders will NOT hold a vacuum like disc brake piston rings do. If you pull much vacuum on those, you WILL suck air into the cylinder and defeat your purpose. I've seen this happen in the master cylinder too, so don't suck too hard. 😒 Lastly, you can reverse the process and gently pressurize the jar to pump gear oil into a differential housing or other hard-to-reach place.

[@triumphrider9796]

As long as I've been riding and working on my own bikes, I'm surprised I'd never heard of the zip-tie trick. I just replaced the rotors, brake lines and pads on my Bonnie, including replacing the front caliper seals, and while the rear bled and came up to pressure easily, the front didn't. I re-bled it and it still wasn't quite right, so I tried the zip-tie, cut it off later and it's perfect! Thanks!

[@AaronColton93]

How good is that feeling?! Happy to help!

[@fgcvhhbvjhbj]

Enjoying all the new videos with Aaron. Great job 👍

[@AaronColton93]

Thank you Luke!

[@AlvinCornelius]

Very well explained, keep this guy around.

[@CraigSmith568]

Getting ready to do this myself. Great timing.

[@K-Mac_Racing_55]

For a system that already has brake fluid and all your doing is flashing with new brake fluid, the first thing I do is bleed from the master cylinder bleed nipple using the old pump and hold method. The reason, any air in the system will be at the top of the system, so by starting there, you remove any air in the system right away. After that quick air removal task is done, I use a syringe to suck out the old brake fluid in the reservoir, fill with new oil, then begin the bleeding process at the calipers still using the old pump and hold method. After you can see the old brake has been purged, and the new fluid is now showing, the bleed process is done. I only use the air pressure/vacuum method if I'm installing new lines and/or completely starting with no fluid in the system.

[@dnlgrhm]

Absolutely brilliant. Having screwed it up royally I am very grateful to see how it should be done.

[@AaronColton93]

Thank you! Best of luck with your next go at it!

[@BurlyNerdGetsTheWorm]

You guys continue to put out fantastic content. Keep it up!

[@scorpion-ninja8228]

I will also add, I have installed "Speed bleeders" on both my bikes. Front, rear calipers and front master cylinder. Makes bleeding brakes quicker! Had them on my 650R for 10 years, no leaks or any issues at all!

[@nickmaris100]

A perfect video, plenty of helpful 'extra' tips, excellent clear well paced delivery.

[@AaronColton93]

Thank you!

[@stephenross2650]

Thanks for some great tips mate worked well!

[@nikolager23]

Push, open, close, release haha that was so satisfying thanks mate cheers

[@AaronColton93]

It is the brake bleeding grind! I am glad you enjoyed!

[@shawnpark2840]

I don’t know why but I have a strange desire to go out and buy some Red Bull haha I’ve missed Ari’s videos but this one was well done. Looking forward to future videos!

[@garycassill1314]

I have used the speed bleeders and they have sealant around the threads like the teflon tape idea. I have gone old school with pedal and lever pressure, skipping my Mighty Vac (sp?) because it sucks air around the threads. The teflon idea might make me re-think that! Good video! Thank you MC Garage!

[@scorpion-ninja8228]

nice video, I picked up a few tips. Clever idea with the zip ties and tire valve/fluid cap for 90degree pour! That will come in handy when I bleed the rear brake on my Track ZX6R. I deleted the rear fluid container and just have a 8" piece of tube with a cap/plug. That tube is like 8mm.

[@kaykay8686]

I really enjoyed this video! Keep them coming.

[@Spartan375X]

Cool, now I have use for the extra fluid reservoir cap!

[@AaronColton93]

Perfect!

[@kylek2794]

Great video

[@jasonkay869]

That was fantastic Aaron! Looking forward to seeing you do future MC Garage videos!

[@AaronColton93]

Thank you Jason!

[@superplanetbruh]

expertly executed!

[@AaronColton93]

Thank you!

[@davidchivers2762]

Hi Justin, thanks for that, some good guest input there. You're looking good btw, keep it up! Also btw, finally got myself an R Nine T. Awesome. I remember your review on Moto USA from 5 years ago: " I really, really like this bike...". Ditto.

[@TheMotorcycleMuse]

Watching him bleed the front brake system I couldn't believe how easy he made it look. This guy makes it easier to do than most experienced mechanics. For those watching this before you bleed your own brakes for the first time, prepare yourself for a world of pain and frustration as the air keeps coming and coming ha ha

[@AaronColton93]

10000 hours! Thank you for the kind words.

[@ClutchFirst]

I couldn't find the vacuum bleed pump in the amazon link. I need that tool in my life asap.

[@AaronColton93]

Here is the link! amzn.to/2z4DmSC

[@maniUSArmy]

One thing seems off about front bleeding. You went to the closer side first instead of starting from the farthest point (left caliper). Why is that? I hear ABS makes this old process unnecessary but haven't seen it mentioned by a reliable source so would like to know. Besides, I don't see an ABS sensor cable on this bike so I assume it doesn't have it?

[@Lanolin410]

Not relevant for this bike but some stock systems have a crossover brake tube/hose (right side now the furthest point).

[@albertob.4638]

Crystal clear! Great video, thank you.

[@Flip01]

Great tips thank you. Your bike is very nicely set up and looks sick.👍🇦🇺🍺

[@wanderlpnw]

Use a turkey baster to remove old fluid from the reservoir to save some time.

[@j4zzx297]

That valve on the bottle cap is a game changer! Wastered too much time with funnels

[@cpuuk]

Q. I was told not to use the zip-tie trick on the hydraulic clutch (brake is fine) as it compresses the plate return springs? Also once bake fluid bottle is opened and used, it should be disposed of, don't keep the remaining fluid as it only absorbs water over time.

[@peterhird3542]

Thanks for the video👍. I’ve got a question...Do you recommend any special technique or requirements to bed in new brakes pads? Is it necessary or not? Cheers.

[@achterstraat21a65]

I always creat a negative pressure with a big feeding syringe I put on the bleeding valve open the bleeder and pull on the syringe same principal 👌

[@VTECheart]

great video! have him back!

[@mauriciocapovilla]

nice! thanks

[@safariterenas3176]

Nice video

[@parthchawda3727]

Hey buddy thanks for teaching the new tricks of break bleeding😊

[@AaronColton93]

No problem!

[@PezRaider]

Thank you!!!!!!

[@amaana4631]

9:50 hes definitely sponsored by red bull 😂😂

[@markejon4408]

he is

[@carolkati]

Yes. And this is so that we do not pay anything to learn. Works for me. 😀

[@camranh_royal]

I dont drink dat shiet 🤦‍♂️💥

[@amaana4631]

Joe_Anroy probably gives cancer!?

[@camranh_royal]

@@amaana4631 not probably... it surely does!

[@rameshrameshkumar198]

Very good sir

[@AbnormalWrench]

Might want to not put the mic directly on the vacuum bleeder. Ow, my ears!

[@AshwinSpencer]

What size air compressor (SCFM and gallons) was used in this demo? Thanks.

[@AaronColton93]

It is a 25Gallon 1.8CFM but will operate on much less.

[@TheJumpinJesus]

I don't know about the rest but I'm definitely going to try the valve stem in brake fluid cap=D

[@megaderk]

is the teflon tape ok to leave on the bleeder screw? can it withstand the heat of the brakes or will it cause issue down the road?

[@AaronColton93]

It eventually will need replacing from deterioration but I have not had any enter the braking system in my experience.

[@sahzookey]

I've been thinking of upgrading to steel braided lines. How do you get the air out when it is all air? Or am I overthinking it? And how much air should be in the reservoir?

[@AaronColton93]

Starting with a bleeding device that will start a vacuum is the best way to start. You can sometime gravity bleed if you have time (Fill at the top and let leak out the bottom) but I recommend at least a basic bleeder.

[@MotoPumps]

Nicely done!

[@AaronColton93]

Thank you!

[@NhoyBarangay]

Can a Pneumatic Bleeder completely purge air on the entire system dry including the ABS Control Module?

[@AlvinCornelius]

Curious. My first guess is no.

[@NhoyBarangay]

I asked coz I think those solenoid valves can only be bled by Diagnostic Tools which is really an expensive route for most DIY'er.

[@jonr3891]

Great tips! - thanks 🌮 🤙

[@1barron]

GREAT video make more like that.

[@AaronColton93]

That is the goal! Thank you!

[@jerryandnancywertzbaugher7778]

Very Good. But here is a key question; on a system with ABS you have to hook-up to a diagnostic devise to open the ABS valves to flush fluid. Can youi still do an old fasion flush withour flushing the ABS valve?

[@AmazingPaulius]

Short answer is no.

[@garycassill1314]

Depends on the bike and the ABS setup. I want fresh fluids in that expensive component to keep it clean. Look it up and don't trip on the two yard line!

[@AaronColton93]

With the modern ABS system you often need to place ecu into bleed mode.

[@xapaiz]

For all the weekend warriors out there. You don't need a pressurized line in the garage, just search for a manual pump on Amazon. It is VERY convenient, cheap and much easier than pumping the brakes

[@69RIGGER]

What pneumatic break bleeder do you use in this video and where did you get it

[@AaronColton93]

It is a Capri Tools bleeder. You can get it directly from their website or on Amazon

[@AaronColton93]

It is a Capri! Here is the link amzn.to/2z4DmSC

[@brianadrian7605]

Before you finish, take a wrench or a small hammer and tap on all the connections and the master cylinder, then bleed it a couple more times. Tapping on the connections will free up the air bubbles traped in the system.

[@riggidybang]

What are the risks of having fluid way beyond recommended interval (even if braking feels fine)? I ride MTBs and really only bleed my brakes if my lever feel is impacted - for MTB purposes even a super-polluted DOT fluid seems to do the job, at least it did for my riding - just wondering if moto world is similar or if stopping would be dramatically impacted...

[@garycassill1314]

You risk ruining your ABS system, pistons, and other parts from water seeping into the fluid and rusting bits that should not be exposed to water. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (fancy word for 'attracts water'). It is a cheap and simple process to do it every year and not discover you have no brakes when you really need them! If a caliper gets even a speck of rust or corrosion in it, it can hang up, not fully release, wear down your pads, ruin your disc, and blow the seals. Without fluid, you have no brakes! Not worth it. Brake fluid is cheaper than crashing. Look at the grungy color of the fluid coming out and feel good about the fresh stuff!

[@riggidybang]

@@garycassill1314 Cool - thank you for the info - I guess ability to stop is generally a good thing... I've bummed around internet and in general there seems to be more of a concern with boiling temp drop, although personally I'd think corrosion could be a greater issue for general riding - I'd be nice if there was a rule of thumb at which % of water content components of various materials start to corrode. There doesn't seem to be much of a consensus from different manufacturers, including cars on what is an appropriate interval - I'm assuming at some point you'd be hitting diminishing returns.

[@AaronColton93]

I would agree with Gary. You have to be neglect the system for many years for that to happen but at its worst it can even turn into a Jelly like sludge. Most people can get away with 5ish years on a bleed. I am able to notice the diminishing performance of the boiling point temperature after a few months of use. It is very situational.

[@tomengel776]

Always place the bleeding container ABOVE the bleeding valve or you will suck in air

[@GT6SuzukaTimeTrials]

Really?

[@AmazingPaulius]

I'm going to bleed my brakes this weekend, thank you for the video.

[@AaronColton93]

No problem! Have Fun!

[@GT6SuzukaTimeTrials]

Oldschool method for me

[@Anonymous-pn2ti]

If it's a bike you are gonna keep, just spend $8 per OEM bleed nipple on the bike and get SpeedBleeders instead. One way check valves. Open, pull lever or push pedal, refill as you go, and close. Simple, one man, quick operation. Once you install them, I can bleed clutch and brake fluid in less time than it took me to write this.

[@garycassill1314]

I agree! Slick setup!

[@BKLYF]

What the fuck that fuel hose and zip tie trick is just genius at work

[@justinjones4822]

Why didn’t you start with the caliper that’s furthest away? 🧐🧐

[@AaronColton93]

That is the usual habit but on my T setup you can start from either side.

[@MW11-]

How about the breaking liquid in the ABS pump?

[@Cemsicles]

There's not that much in abs pump compared to the whole system. So most of us don't bother. You can go for a ride engage abs couple of times after a flush, then flush it one more time if you want. But I never had issues.

[@garycassill1314]

Some bikes have very sensitive ABS units like my BMW. Look it up and sometimes there is a separate bleeder on the ABS unit. They are pretty expensive to replace (mine would have been $2,000 for the parts!) so why skip that part? Look it up on the forums or manual and do it right. Others don't need a separate bleed.

[@AaronColton93]

Most of the time you will need to put the bike into a "Bleed Mode" with the modern ABS Systems

[@norme5795959]

There also exists a "pressure" bleeder tool (instead of vacuum). No compressed air needed. I like the Motive Products one. Magic. Fun tip: switch between colored brake fluid and clear so you can see when you've reached the end of the old fluid.

[@LTVoyager]

You are creating pressure using the rear brake lever, not vacuum. It is almost as easy and much more controllable to use a hand vacuum pump, Mityvac or similar, rather than the compressed air unit for vacuum flushing. Much quieter and less likely to inadvertently run the master cylinder reservoir dry and introduce air into the system.

[@zsolti256]

Redbull Garage

[@TurkiyeCumhurbaskani]

I could not bleed my Ducati's clutch, it just wouldn't bleed and made it worse. I had to get it towed to the dealer to get it fixed. Lost my confidence.

[@AaronColton93]

The clutch bleeds always seem to be more difficult than the brakes. I have had the best luck removing the slave cylinder to have something to push the fluid back and forth with.

[@tknadin]

Cheaper than using cable ties all the time, wrap a bungie cord around the lever.

[@AaronColton93]

I fully approve of the green method.

[@title214]

I would give my right arm for that garage

[@AaronColton93]

I have given both of mine to it daily turning it into what it is today ;)

[@paulsven7923]

Get rid of most of the old brake fluid from the main reservoir first

[@robertkacala]

ps: RedBull is not a brake fluid

[@spiritbuu]

...or you can use a portable vacuum hand pump.

[@AaronColton93]

That is also a suitable option.

[@thamomentum]

"My tightly Teflon taped sealed nipple" - uh, we sure we still doing a brake fluid bleed?

[@droy333]

Save all the money and just gravity bleed.

[@AaronColton93]

Gravity bleed works okay but is not always a sure shot at success. Especially with long lines that have multiple bends in their routing.

[@tgrman1]

Could they get someone that looks more nerdy than this guy?

[@AaronColton93]

I am sure they could if that is what they where looking for.

[@snakesolid6823]

So many bleeders

[@AaronColton93]

All the bleeders!!!

[@camranh_royal]

love to drink that sugar water "red fool" "bull" sorry💩💩🤦‍♂️