Mountain Topper Radio Review (MTR3B)

[@MichaelSmith-yy8fw]

That new Venus radio is tempting. I’ve got a KX3, an SW40 and a QCX40. If I spend any more money on QRP rigs I’m going to be in trouble with the XYL 😆. Thanks for the tip and your fine videos. I learn something new every time I watch. MikeinMinnesota N0WDM

[@broddireyrhansen1297]

Thanks for the video, one naive question, is there any android app that can work as a keyer for this device ?

[@g0pot]

A keyer needs to be able to switch the key input of a radio and I’m not aware of an app (which would also need an interface between your phone/tablet and the radio) which can do this. Good idea though for someone that wants to automate sending. You want the mobile equivalent of N1MM running on a laptop.

[@Dr-T]

Excellent review. Clear and unhurried. I have one too. Its my 'go to' portable rig. 73 Bruce G4ABX

[@bntravelin2]

best description of any radio ever! thanks de ne4am

[@georgesereikas9023]

Michael, Great video review of the MTR. I've owned mine for 2 weeks and totally agree with all of your comments. I love this little rig and have found that the operation is very intuitive. Amazing what is packed into this little radio! 72, George K2WO

[@audiemolinger6450]

OK, Michael, I'm a beginner and want to do mores code, is there a radio you would recommend? John

[@QRPCW]

wow!!! I like 73

[@yrath5034]

That is a fantastic review, thanks.

[@AE5X]

Hi Michael, I'm curious as to how you have the paddles attached to the side - velcro, double-sided tape, magnet...? Tnx, great video.

[@g0pot]

The screw in the side of the MTR case lined up perfectly with the mounting hole in the Pico Paddle base. I just had to use a slightly longer screw as the one in the case was just a few millimetres short. I couldn't find a direct replacement...I'm going to assume the threads are based on an American standard so I found the closest metric equivalent and let it 're-cut' the thread. It's probably important not to use too long a screw as the PCB and components aren't far off! Measure the existing screw and find one about 3 - 5mm (100 - 200 though) longer.

[@Thelesphore]

NIce review - thanks! - W2TAC

[@hondaridgelineenduser5934]

What do you use for an antenna with this, I'm studying for my license in America. I like how it's easy looking and small

[@g0pot]

Dan Baudelio It’s an amazing little CW QRP Transceiver. I use either a linked dipole or for super light weight End Fed Half Wave (EFHW) aerial. You can check out the build details of the EFHW at www.peanutpower.co.uk and it features in a few of my videos.

[@konradsmolak]

Hi, Michael. How did you make the antenna dongle? Which components have you used? Cable RG58? Thanks...

[@g0pot]

Konrad, I've just added details on the dongle and how I mounted the Palm Paddle to the radio on my website...please check out these details and pictures at peanutpower.co.uk/mtr3b

[@rwprime1]

Does it have QSK? (can you hear between dits) I don't remember you saying.

[@g0pot]

It has semi break-in so not full QSK but a pretty short delay before switching back to RX.

[@pat3034]

Great job Michael! I really like the orange clipboard organizer your using. Is this board available commercially or is it home brew? Thanks Pat

[@g0pot]

It was a commercial offering from SOTABeams (www.sotabeams.co.uk) but they are no longer in production. It's not that difficult to make one using a plastic or aluminium clip board, either A5 (for a Mountain Topper) or A4 if you need something a little bigger.

[@flashMXdesigner]

Thanks Michael, just purchased this on your review and others. One question, on your Li Po, what do you use to charge the li po? Thanks for any info. 73

[@g0pot]

Fantastic...you'll love it. As I have a couple of LiPo/LiFePo batteries I use an iMAX B6AC balanced charger (like this www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__58285__IMAX_B6AC_V2_Professional_Balance_Charger_Discharger.html). Enjoy...

[@DesertVox]

I don't get why they would put a single 7-segment display on this expensive crap. Why do they complicate thins when with just half a dollar, you can get a 4-digit display, or for a dollar you can get an OLED. This is bl00d-boiling unnecessary stinginess.

[@g0pot]

I guess when this was first designed and built, the 7 segment display was a cheap and power efficient approach to providing visual info. To change it now would require a PCB change and enclosure redesign which maybe adds to the cost and risk. The humble 7 segment display is a bit basic but it does it’s job :o) Maybe there will be an MTR-3B mk2 in the future.

[@aceventuraaceventura2003]

Just nitpicking. Why not have the 9V battery be able to be installed inside the radio with a screw on cover?

[@g0pot]

That would require a larger case…definitely no space in this one. However it might come down to the original design criteria. Many portable operators like to use external batteries because you can easily take a size that matches your requirements and, when operating in extreme cold, you can pop that battery in a pocket to keep warm. That said, there’s something very convenient about internal batteries and I do appreciate that option on radios like the KX2.

[@g0pot]

A few people have commented that the power output seemed a little low and a after a quick email to LNR and a response from Ryan on how to tweak the output I now have about 4.2W on 20m and 3.3W on 30&40m using 12V.

[@v4mp1el]

+Michael Sansom I receive my MTR in about 2 weeks. Can you tell me how to tweak the output? 73 de Daniel

[@g0pot]

Daniel, first check the output on each band you may find yours is absolutely fine straight from LNR and doesn't need any adjustment. Be warned, it's possible to push the PA too far and damage the O/P transistor I think. If you find the output is low and not to your liking then see the following from the original MTR build guide... Transmitter test and output (low pass) filter adjustment: ● Connect a QRP watt meter and 50 ohm dummy load to the antenna jack ● Connect a 9.0 Volt supply. Other voltages can be used, but power out at 9.0 volts is the only known data point for sure. ● Use a straight key or keep the Dash paddle closed when turning power to the board on so it goes into straight key mode. ● Key the transmitter and check the power output. If using a 9.0 volt supply, the power should be close to 2.5 watts and between 4.5 and 5 watts with a 12.0 volt supply. ● Power out can be tweaked by adjusting the spacing of the turns on the LPF toroids. Typically, moving turns closer together on the coils on the PA side of the filter (L12/L14/L16) will decrease power while spreading them apart (to be move evenly spaced around the core) will increase power. The power out on 40 and 30 will likely be a little on the high side with the turns evenly spaced. ● To achieve maximum PA efficiency, using an milliamp meter to monitor the current while making the filter adjustments can allow you to find the point where you get the most power out with the least amount of current. ● Once one band is done, switch to the others and make any adjustments if needed. ...in case it's not clear, with the front of the radio facing you and the sockets on the back facing away from you the coils should be in the lower right corner and the PA side are the three closest to you, closest to the front edge of the case. L12 (40m) is on the left, L14 (30m) in the middle and L16 (20m) on the right tucked in the corner. Use something soft (like a matchstick or your finger nail) to adjust the turns being careful not to damage the wire. Michael

[@v4mp1el]

+Michael Sansom Thank you very much for the detailed instructions. But I cancelled my order of the MTR and bought a YouKits EK1A. Maybe the instructions can help other hams ;). 73

[@MotorcycleNation]

Michael, thank you for all your videos of LNR products. I am getting ready to purchase an MTR3B and I wanted to inquire where you purchased teh RCA to BNC power cable. I have found them in different places but only in 6' or longer cables and I do not want anything that long. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[@g0pot]

Steve McQueen I actually made my adaptor. I used about 12cm of coax, a BNC panel mount female socket a bit of heat shrink and an RCA plug. You can get one piece RCA to BNC adaptors but they are quite long and act as a bit of a leaver on the tiny MTR so the short ‘dongle’ version is better. I can post photos if that helps.

[@tolgacelik9905]

@@g0pot Hello Michael.Please help about this rca jack.Commercial rca jacks are not 50ohm.Does it matter?Can I solder the coax to rca jack and connect to the mtr3b.Thats all?

[@g0pot]

@@tolgacelik9905 Yes, just solder the RCA direct to the coax. It's a little tricky and be sure not to let the inner and outer of the coax become shorted. I think I had to open up the hole in the top of the RCA cover a little as the coax was a little wider than the sort of cable you would normally use. I just used a round file to widen the hole. I can post pictures if needed.

[@tolgacelik9905]

@@g0pot Thanks for the answer.I did like you said.Anyway if you would send me a foto of inner side ,It will be good to check it out.Thanks lot. [e-mail]

[@SandhillGuitar]

There is a calibration procedure in your Mountain Topper radio manual. It should fix that 100 Hz error between the reported freq and actual freq. I do not know if the American 10,000 kHz time signal gets to Europe or GB, but if so, it works just fine to calibrate the MTR and other KD1JV designs with your computer and other receiver.

[@g4vuxqrp210]

Thank you for this information. I had a scheduled contact with a club member the other day and when he replied to my CQ I didn't hear him because he was so far outside the pass band of my KX3. Luckily, another local amateur sent me a text (!) to tell me what was happening and we held the QSO with a large RIT adjustment at my end. Hopefully, he will be able to correct the error to avoid missed contacts with other stations in the future. I am an avid QRP op and homebrewer and I have to say that this is a very detaild and well presented review. Thank you MIchael, vy 73 Graham - de G4VUX

[@g0pot]

Although the calibration of my MTR3B is a little out I think the TX and RX are aligned...its just the displayed frequency is a tiny bit off. Loving your Paraset video by the way (kzbin.info/www/bejne/gKiwlGhpo6psobM)...I'd like to build one of these or at least a basic valve CW transceiver at some point :o)

[@g4vuxqrp210]

Yes, looking back on it, I think you're correct, We had agreed a frequency in advance and my guess is that my friend tuned his MTR-3B accordingly. I was using a very narrow bandwidth due to the local QRN. We are planning to meet up for a field trip soon, so I will have a chance to see the MTR-3B and maybe make a few contacts! Best wishes, Graham

[@randoneur]

Nice video. Enjoy - Pete G4ISJ

[@audiemolinger6450]

is there a radio you would recommend? John

[@g0pot]

As a CW user the Elecraft radios take some beating. If you want to discuss options in more detail look me up on QRZ.com (G0POT) and drop me an email.

[@audiemolinger6450]

(Beginner here) Doe sit do morse code? John

[@g0pot]

Yes, the Mountain Topper radios (MTR3B, MTR4B and MTR5B) are designed to send CW or Morse Code. The filtering is narrow, about 500Hz, so they are really only designed to receive morse code too.

[@jpuddlejump]

I just bought the same battery for mine. However, after charging it I saw that it was at 12.5 volts even thought it's nominal voltage is 11.1. The MTR's documentation says 12 volts max so now I'm scared to use my battery. Have you had any issues with excess voltage?

[@g0pot]

Hi, a good question to ask. I can only advise that I've had no issues using mine. I think the battery presents a little over 12V when open circuit (not connected to anything) but drops below 12V when attached to a load. I'll take some measurements of mine (disconnected and powering the radio) and post my findings back here.

[@jpuddlejump]

Thanks Michael! That would be great! Even just hitting the menu and up buttons to see what voltage the MTR is seeing while idling would be a quick and dirty way of checking that.

[@g0pot]

A very quick test showed 11.79V on my LiPo before connecting and 11.79V while powering the MTR3B. So it seems adding a load does not significantly impact the voltage output. My LiPo isn't freshly charged (I'm sure it goes above 12V when it is) so I will recharge it tonight and retest in the morning and update you. As I say, I've been using this set up for almost a year with no negative impact.

[@jpuddlejump]

It's good to hear you've not had troubles at least. Thanks for checking. I'll check back here tomorrow and see what you've found.

[@g0pot]

With a fresh charge on the 460mAh 3 cell LiPo my battery measures 12.5V. When the MTR3B is powered this remains steady at 12.5V (using the Fn + up arrow the radio reports 12.4V). I've clearly not had any issue with this voltage level but I concur the MTR documentation does state that the voltage should not exceed 12V. I guess there is some tolerance. I note that this voltage remains steady even when I start transmitting. You could add a diode in the supply line as this would drop ~0.7V and bring you under 12V.

[@vanhetgoor]

It is unbelieveble. It is 2016 and there are a lot of things missing on this radio, like a normal display. In the comments below the word minimalistic is used. Keep that in mind. Why are there keys on the radio to make a selection? Wouldn't it be nice of those too where done on a Morse code way. And why only one cypher in the display, get rid of it and make it hearable also in Morse-code. Monty Python made something like 40 or 50 years ago a sketch about a play on stage of Wuthering heights by Emily Brontë, but then in signal flags, well this is it! This LNR Precision version of the MTR, Mountain Topper Radio is a remake of that, but then completely different!

[@g0pot]

I guess the interface design of a radio is a balance of function, power consumption, general usability and, of course, customer requirements. I'm surprised at the need for three slider switched to change band but if it saves on power to provide an alternative through relays or micro controllers then, given the raison d'être' of this radio I guess it was a trade off worth making. I like having that simple, single digit display to remind me I have the RIT on! Although I like having morse annunciation (and the MTR uses morse to both annunciate and to accept direct frequency changes from the key) I still like to be able to scroll up and down the band holding the button. I think with the MTR3B the designer has achieved and extraordinary weight:power:feature balance based on his initial design aims. Wuthering Heights using semaphore...Monty Python are pure genius :o)

[@MichaelSmith-yy8fw]

Terrific review of a neat little radio. The fact that it is a triple band is what makes it a good value. I don’t own one because the operation is more complicated than I’m used to. Also I don’t like the RCA antenna connector and the non standard power input. Never the less it is well suited to the minimalist portable QRP operator. MikeinMinnesota N0WDM

[@g0pot]

Michael St.James I’ve just started playing with an SW-3B which is an equally tiny 3-band radio that has a tuning knob and RF gain/volume controls. Check out www.venus-itech.com

[@JKarle]

Great video, thank you - my radio is arriving soon and I can not wait! I am hoping to add a palm key as you have, can you please let me know it this is the mini or the pico and how you are attaching it to the radio. Many thanks - VE1AJK

[@g0pot]

J Karle Hi, congratulations on the lovely little radio! That’s the pico paddle and it just so happens that the paddle base has a screw hole that aligns perfectly with the screw holding the case together. You’ll need a very slightly longer screw...details in another reply here somewhere :o)

[@VE3IPS]

Thanks mike hope to get one at Dayton 2017

[@g0pot]

John Leonardelli Hope they have some in stock for you. A fantastic little radio.

[@paulanthony873]

do any QRP radios come with a keypad to allow you to type a message then send it in morse code in a burst transmission so another capable radio can decode it

[@g0pot]

Hi Paul, Most radios have the ability to program simple strings to be sent in CW but these are typically to enable the operator to pre-program repetitive stuff like "CQ CQ CQ DE G0POT G0POT PSE K". They are normally entered using a paddle or key. If you connect a computer to your radio there are a number of programs that could achieve something similar I believe. An option you may want to look at is the Begali CW Machine (www.i2rtf.com/cw-machine-1.html) This is a small stand alone unit that you can plug a keyboard into and I think you can create pre-prepared messages, type in real time and decode the received CW. Check it out and let us know if this suits your needs.

[@MichaelSmith-ql3ez]

Using a KX3 with the PX3 Panadapter allows you to send CW from a USB keyboard. But it's kind of overkill for backpacking QRP 🙂

[@zs1cdg-electronicsandamate128]

great review!

[@VE3IPS]

what was the power output tweak?

[@g0pot]

John Leonardelli I simply had to adjust the winding spacing on the low pass filter toroids...in my case I had to spread them out a bit and in all likelihood I could probably get more out of the radio if I removed a turn but I’m happy with just a few watts.

[@mci1969]

Question for you. Did the magnets in the Pico Paddle mount affect the transceiver at all? Did you remove them prior to directly mounting it to the transceiver or leave them in? Thank you. Michael AD6S

[@g0pot]

Good question Michael...no, I left the magnets in the base of the Pico Paddle and it had no affect on the MTR when installed on the right hand side of the case.

[@mci1969]

Thanx for the quick reply. I ordered mine and it should be here by the end of the month. I plan to copy your mounting method. Will be using your review as a "Reference" when it finally gets here. Nice job - Michael AD6S

[@DavidWeingart]

+Michael Sansom Hm. Mine should come this week. I'll have to think about ordering the Pico Paddle as well. Right now I've got a Te-Ne-Key, which is pretty robust but has the disadvantage of not being mountable.

[@g0pot]

Ooooo...just looking at the Te-Ne-Key...very sweet. I wonder how easy it is to hold that in one hand and send with the other? I guess if you use a 'flight deck' (see one of my other videos) and can screw it down to the flight deck then that would be OK. Maybe you can create a small bracket to fix it to the MTR...or you could just go for it an get yourself one of those excellent Palm Pico Paddles...they are great.

[@DavidWeingart]

+Michael Sansom It's very easy to hold in one hand and send in the other. although it's a little different than using paddles and you'll want to adjust it slightly for your own comfort. It's doesn't fit my hand well enough that using it one handed is comfortable, although it's doable.

[@MrEttercap]

What mount did you use to attach the picopaddle?

[@g0pot]

I'm just using the Palm Pico Paddle mount as you can clip it to the key from below or, in my case, from the side. The screw in the MTR case lined up perfectly with the mounting hole in the Pico Paddle base. I just had to use a slightly longer screw.

[@MrEttercap]

+Michael Sansom Gotcha! I hadn't noticed that there were mounting holes in the bottom of the magnetic mount. Do you happen to know how much longer a screw you had to use?

[@g0pot]

+MrEttercap The case screw was literally just a few millimetres short. I couldn't find a direct replacement...going to assume the threads are based on an American standard so I found the closest metric equivalent and let it 're-cut' the thread. It's probably important not to use too long a screw as the PCB and components aren't far off! Measure the existing screw and find one about 3 - 5mm (100 - 200 thou) longer. It fits perfectly on the side of the MTR like they were made for each other. Enjoy...

[@cottersay]

Too expensive for such a minimalist radio.

[@cwqrpportable]

Look, don't get me wrong; I like all QRP radios and appreciate each and every one for what they have to offer. The YouKits HB1B MKII beats this LNR rig hands down. Full and bright frequency display, built in memory keyer, adjustable volume, adjustable filtering, small size like the LNR. All around, the YouKits is just an easier radio to use and works FB. Just saying........

[@g0pot]

+Binder Dundat The YouKits HB1B is a great little radio but really in a different league to the MTR. The MTR is pure lightweight minimalistic heaven whilst managing to be an absolutely superb performer. The HB1B is very large in comparison and really in the same league as the KX1. I think the quality of the KX1 outstrips the HB1B by some margin but you can't beat the 'bang per buck' value of the HB1B...it's low cost has opened up trail-friendly radios to a whole new base of Amateurs. By the way, I also love that big bright screen on the HB1B but unfortunately it drains batteries...the MTR and KX1 both excel in low current draw and thus better lend themselves to the role of trail-friendly radios and portable operating where you don't want to be carrying huge batteries.

[@cwqrpportable]

No, actually I think you're splitting hairs here. We're talking about the MTR and the HB1B, not the KX1, which I own as well. The MTR is 3.8"x2.7"x1" and the HB1B is 5"x3"x1.25" The MTR is 9oz lighter than the HB1B. The MTR current drain is 35ma on rx and 550ma at 12v on tx. The HB1B is 80-90ma on rx and 800ma on tx at 12v. I've carried the HB1B in the hills of Newfoundland, in the Canadian Rockies and along the coast of El Salvador. I use a 2300mah LiFePO4 battery that I purchased from eBay a number of years ago and I am able to operate as long as I really want. If I decide to go for longer I take a 4200mah Zippy brand LiFePO4 battery that I purchased online from Hobby King in Hong Kong. It's 5' long x 2" wide and weighs 19oz. Very very few people who buy the MTR will use it in a situation where ultra lightweight and miniature size are critical. They buy with that romantic idea in their mind, but it mostly does not come to fruition. For the majority of buyers, the HB1B is more intuitive to use and has more features. The minimal extra weight and size are more than made up for by ease of use and the intuitive features.

[@g0pot]

+Binder Dundat Binder, I can't argue with you assessment of our 'romantic ideas'...its very true. I was also compelled to check the manufacturers figures for current draw after I flattened a battery using the HB-1B but I must concur, the HB-1B (at 11.5V) draws closer to 73mA on receive and somewhere around 730mA on transmit (differs a bit per band) for ~3W out on my model. So although much higher than my MTR those are still pretty impressive figures for a trail friendly radio and, like the KX1, it has the added advantage of things like a tuning knob and you can comfortably listen to broadcast stations which is nice when camping. I still think the size and 'bulletproofness' of the MTR make it a great throw-in-the-bag transceiver and my MTR, battery, key and headphones in a little protective case take up less room that a KX1 or HB-1B barebones radio but they are all superb and you just can't knock the HB-1B cost/feature ratio. You should own all three ;o)

[@AE5X]

+Michael Sansom - the MTR is a much more "packable" radio and I think this was part of the reason for pushbutton tuning, no volume knob, and low profile band switches. Precautions must be taken when packing the HB-1B that aren't as necessary with the MTR. These precautions will add bulk. I've compared the HB-1B and the upcoming MTR-5B here and agree - one should own them all: ae5x.blogspot.com/2016/04/youkits-hb-1b-vs-lnr-mtr-5b.html 73 - John

[@cwqrpportable]

I've packed the HB1B into some pretty nasty places and have had no issue whatsoever. The advantages the HB1B have far outweigh your description of it being a less packable radio. It's just more intuitive and better all round