Mounting The Fuel Cell In The 240z

In today's episode im finishing the frame rails and mounting a fuel cell! Try Squarespace today! Get a free trial and 10% off your first purchase at squarespace.com...
❱ Shop - bisforbuild.com/
❱ Game - disfordrift.com
❱ Patreon - www.patreon.com...
❱ Facebook - / bisforbuild
❱ Instagram - / bisforbuild
❱ Twitch - / bisforbuild
Music:
Fareoh - Cloud Ten

[@jakob.k_design]

Your rear bar is mounted directly to the frame rails. If you have an impact, the force will go directly into your frame rails, into your chassis and your seat. A small crash would ruin your inire frame. I would build a bash bar, or at least something that takes some of the force in case of an accident.

[@123ytk9]

Don't worry the gastank will take some of the force sheering of the mounts

[@martinbernath]

He can still make cuts to the the frame rails near that bar to basically make crumple zones.

[@Tux_Appreciator]

123 YTK 🤣

[@palindrome414]

The force will be transferred to the fuel tank first. P is for pinto?

[@brennan519]

zero research...

[@Jamasterev]

Correct me if I'm wrong but those tabs on the fuel cell aren't necessarily designed to support the weight of a full fuel cell. They're designed to hold the cell in place when it is resting upon something else. They're hold-down tabs, not necessarily support tabs. I would want to run a member across the bottom to bear the load of the cell just to be safe when you hit a bigass bump with a full tank and don't rip them out of the tank.

[@nathanrose3006]

E Anderson yeah this is true those rear tabs will for sure break under a full tank. Even half a tank after a while it will break

[@280zone]

E Anderson is correct. I installed that exact same tank style and didn't want the tabs in my way and was surprised how easily I was able to break them off, Definitely not designed to hold the weight of the tank.

[@nathanchalecki4842]

I was told by my certifier (we need to get our cars checked after modifications over here) that those fuel cells should be held with straps and those tabs often crack and fall off.

[@Craig_Bolin]

Is he not putting a floor pan in trunk? I have no idea what I'm talking about but to me it seems like the cage and floorplan should be finished and then install the fuel cell and battery, so that there is something to mount it to. Seems a lot easier than making support brackets for everything when he could make one big support bracket called a floor.

[@vincelamarche9686]

Those tabs will not support the tank if you fill it and drive it often. I am constantly fixing them for the ricer crowd. You have to have some sort of support system under the tank. The tabs just keep them from sliding around. I have beefed up the tabs and connected them front to back and have not had any of those come back yet. It does not take much to support the tank, some 1"X2" structure and some sheet metal. You could trim off the sump and weld on some flat aluminum plate in its place since you will be using the BMW pump.

[@BisforBuild]

good feedback, maybe i’ll just throw a square tube in across the middle to support the weight, should work just fine.

[@K1lostream]

Strapping it in with (strong!) padded straps might help spread the load and permit a little flex without cracking aluminium.

[@palindrome414]

Attaching the tank to the rear crash bar is ok? That seems deadly. Ford pinto style.

[@BlueDually4x4]

100% agree with both of these comments. I would run two bars either from side to side or front to back. And don't leave them metal on metal, even those big aluminum tanks on semi trucks have a rubber strap that insulates the tank from the steel mounting brackets.

[@BlakeMcBride]

You need to have straps over the top as well. And rubber isolate it correctly. Aluminum work hardens quickly and will fatigue and fail. Hopefully you're going to put a firewall of some type between you and the fairly fragile aluminum box of fiery death mounted behind you next to an ignition source (battery) also. There are a lot of suspect decisions on this build, but what you're doing here CAN KILL YOU even in an accident as minor as the 350Z debacle. You need to do more research and less winging it, I think a lot of us would like to see you survive to build more dumb shit.

[@builds_on_a_budget4111]

In Australia those tabs aren’t allowed to be what holds the tank in, you are meant to have the tank cradled and then have straps go over it, or you have to add proper mounting points

[@777warhero]

yeah, I believe it wont pass tech inspection for the track in the states either. Definitely needs straps.

[@kruleworld]

it'd be nice to have such lax rules. safety first!

[@builds_on_a_budget4111]

He sorta does things ass about face, I love his enthusiasm but he needs to slow it down abit

[@ollydubhead]

Just a thought about the tank mounts... Surely the tank is supposed to sit on a flat floor / beams, and the tabs just hold it in place... The tabs are deffo gonna eventually fracture with just those ally tabs holding all the weight of a full tank... You could weld in two support beams from front to back brackets on the frame at this stage dead quick... Great build though....Keep it up...!

[@sirbow2]

Yup he should've ran the angle iron from the back brackets all the way to the front. He did reply to another comment, so he is going to fix it.

[@bassstorm89]

The rear bar needs to be more like a bashing and have break/weak points. If not in a crash it will mangle your frame bad. The idea of the bar isn’t bad, it just needs to be adjusted. You could move it more inside the car and the build a bashing from thinner metal and mount it to it. You’d also have more support for your fuel cell! You should make 2 straps underneath to support it - those tabs will shear off over time

[@ProfessorOzone]

Often batteries are mounted on the passenger side to offset the weight of the driver.

[@MDFRESCUER]

👍

[@xTerraH]

many bmws with rear located batteries would like to have a word with you

[@0liverGM]

When you started with the 240z I thought that you would not have enough time but when I am looking now I can just see that that is going on SEMA!

[@BisforBuild]

Honestly at this point, unless i bring on alot of help, it probably wont be running and driving at SEMA, but it will look great and itll be there regardless. At the end of september, wherever we are with the engine and drivetrain is where we have to stop and move onto body stuff :/

[@0liverGM]

If I am going to SEMA ( something that I don't because I am from Norway) I would be happy to see the project even if is not done! ANd if it's going to sema you should have a picture of how it was going to look like! LOVE FROM NORWAY!

[@riekeltzz654]

@@BisforBuild its just fine to see the body done and some interior to see how its going to look is already an experience😁

[@riekeltzz654]

@@alexhill828 i am an mechanic wish i could help but no more holidays😁

[@djaura]

B is for Build Maybe call in HumbleMechanic or etcg for a weekend. They could help and shoot a few crossover episodes.

[@alyamrabdelmonemsafwat2712]

You pretty much mounted your fuel cell to your bash bar, which if you get into an accident will not only crush the fuel cell but also bend your frame raills, might even screw up the subframe mountings . I respect that your trying to make everything strong but there are some parts that should be made weak to break and protect your significant parts

[@riotact10jf]

The tank is meant to rest on the trunk floor, and the tabs are there for straps so it doesn't move around. I would of made a trunk floor first before mounting anything in there. Just my opinion, but this build is SICK!!! Can't wait to see it driving!

[@elijahherman]

Hey chris when you're done could you do a "greatest hits" compilation of all the hate and love you've gotten on this build? Just for the lolz.

[@andrewrafferty1194]

this is such a good idea why does this not have more likes

[@davidd4677]

Definitely!

[@MsSomeonenew]

Give all the trolls 5 minutes of fame they always wanted? That is the worst idea in human history, even Hitler wouldn't do that.

[@7to9pounds]

Your gas tank is really close to your rear bash bar, if someone rear ends you it could cause an explosion similar to the issue the old pinto wagons used to have.

[@rbrood267]

Finally he cuts the wheelie bar

[@Amphiron]

B is for Blown the F up if you get rear ended 😂

[@ronjohn8844]

Great idea put 100pounds of fuel much higher then it needs to be! It only needs to be a couple inches above the bottom of the subframe. Not only is it affecting your centre of gravity it will be the only thing you see through the back window. Good luck

[@leovin00]

RonJohn 88 sure, it could be a little lower, but it won’t obstruct his vision. It’s still lower than the bumper.

[@ronjohn8844]

Leo V. How’s he going to fit the x brace for the roll cage mate? Does your road car have a fuel tank sitting on top of the trunk?

[@BrokenBMW]

If the Z still looks high off the ground you should run exhaust down the side like on some of the Caterham cars! Love the work so far, I've followed you since you picked up the Plan B BRZ

[@280zone]

I would recommend installing the battery on the right side to help off set driver weight.

[@arondaughety9800]

For weight balance, put the battery on the right. With just a driver in the car, the battery on the passenger side will help balance the car

[@zamoaleks]

If he gets rear ended his whole entire frame is going to be toast.

[@jakob.k_design]

exactly what I thought, it needs some kind of bash bar.

[@BisforBuild]

@jakob think about it.. bash bar bolted to the frame rail, vs just welding it up to the rail, doesn’t change much. in an accident those rails are getting demolished either way.. And after sitting a body on top of a custom chassis, if this thing gets hit at all the outcome will be a totaled car.

[@EcBuddy123]

@@BisforBuild don't forget that bumpers have crumple pieces between them and the frame that are meant to take the brunt of the hit and keep the force from continuing along and twisting the frame. Even frames have built in areas to crumple to avoid it completely going bad

[@fauners9365]

@@EcBuddy123 he knows that but this is a custom chassis he cannot afford to do the R&D to create crumple area

[@EcBuddy123]

@@fauners9365 he doesn't need to R&D the while chassis, one solution could be to go into the m5 rear bumper (don't remember if it is toast) and use the crumple bumper pieces to mount to the frame and other side to a bash bar. Just an idea

[@jasperh682]

It would be extremely cool to keep the 4 usual BMW M5 exhaust tips

[@Nik.Coffman]

I'm bummed Chris admitted it'll be a trailer queen for SEMA unless he brings in some help. I know I been giving a lot of flak lately (mainly about the electrical), but please man, bring in the crew and get this beast complete for SEMA. PLEASE!!!

[@LordDiaburo]

Hope you added a gasket in between the aluminum and steel brotha!

[@AshGTE]

Try and design a strap system for the fuel cell. Those tabs will fracture after time. Keep on going Chris. Great channel!

[@jonsered8159]

You and gingium would build some insane cars together. Both are very talented fabricators!

[@nathanrowley1031]

love the progress man! keep chipping away at it! love seeing how you solve all the little problems.

[@powcar91]

I think the fuel cell needs more protection. The set up reminds me of the ford pinto gas tank incidents. We don't B is Burn.

[@MrTinkerer1]

Mount the battery on the passenger side. Itll help to offset driver weight. Like others have mentioned the tabs are the too keep the tank from sliding. The tank is meant to sit on tubes or bars or a cradle.

[@andredabrowski]

Hope you reconsider that fuel cell mount to the impact tube. Seems like a real safety issue. I would also redesign the rear end to accommodate for a crumple zone. Not easy but probably a good idea. Good luck!

[@supahone3]

Cool to see how over time your welding skills have improved.

[@rdcL]

Fixing fuel tank to crash structure... think long and hard.

[@Curtiss1965]

Make sure the heat of the exhaust isn't too close to the fueltank...

[@themochaone]

You may want to repurpose some of the heat shields off the M5 carcass!

[@brennan519]

I would change the rec tubing that connects the frame to your bash bar. The reason being that in the event of an accident your frame will 100% twist. There is a reason bash bars are made to be sacrificial. the bars take the impact and crumple instead of forcing that energy forward into the rest of the chassis.

[@k3vlr781]

Hi Chris, im Loving the build! I have to agree with a lot of the comments on here, that even a small shunt in the rear will bend that bar and rip the fuel cell which is not worth thinking about if your inside it if this were to happen. also those tabs are to keep the cell secure from movment and not to hold the entire weight of a full tank i would think. id do a rethink of the mounting of the cell before you fully weld it up! Keep up the good work though!

[@justinlee371]

Hey Chris, I was just wondering.... how are you going to seal and coat the frame (all the nooks and cranny of the raw metal that is exposed to the elements)? You’ve already welded the body of the car to the frame.

[@TheSuspectator]

So all of that bracing and framing is going to sit above the floorpan in the trunk. Won't the frame rails need to go through the floorpan when you get to the rear subframe? Interested to see how you get that done. Love the build!

[@fullyotto31]

A thinner wider take lowered between the frame rails seems like it would work and leave you with plenty of room in the hatch area for battery and cross bracing.

[@HeatFilter]

Bro, your build is turning out to be pretty dope. Congrats on your achievements!

[@pauljsims]

Builds coming along nicely Chris. Did you make sure the car was level before levelling the tank? As the tank is levelled to the floor.

[@LiamTaaffe]

Some serious skills with the welder here!!! Who needs netflix when you have "B is for Build"!

[@DKTAz00]

Car's coming together nicely, for a few videos there I didn't think you had a chance of making the deadline. Maybe add rubber mounts to the tank, to avoid any flex cracking it open.

[@ProjectSupercar]

Like others have mentioned, those tabs on the tank are not supposed to support the weight. When you add fuel, those tabs will fail. You are supposed to support the tank from underneath, those tabs are only meant to hold the tank in place.

[@brennan519]

Also. Mounting the tank to the bash bar is very dangerous, and it would be ideal to have rubber isolators on all the tank mounts. The welds will crack eventually if you hard mount the tank.

[@forbes80751]

Liked the episode as soon as he said he was cutting the excess frame rails off!

[@marthijnvanoorschot7776]

This build is getting more exciting with every video!

[@samuelemerson2919]

You could run some of that rectangle bar in an H pattern under the outside edges of the cell to your rear mounting points to get more support. Im guessing the cell is about 20 gallons, at 7 lbs per gallon. Just could be a lot of weight sloshing around.

[@bastaudio]

I hope when it gets time to paint that you'll have made sure there's no more kinks with the paint booth! You could use M5 parts for testing ;) also be sure to paint every single inch of that 240 so it doesn't rust away!

[@Jakiirr]

This is going to be insane man I can't wait

[@cody8754]

you may need to soft mount the tank where it bolts to the steel because the vibrations. Steel on aluminum contact could potentially wear a hole in the aluminum tank due to aluminum being much softer mixed with the reciprocating effect from the vibrations produced by the vehicle while being driven. This could be avoided by adding bushings between the contact points

[@HooverTuber]

B is for blowed up like pinto. JK it looks better than a pinto. 😄

[@TheBaccaClench]

Last time an engineer decided to put a fuel tank close to the back bumper, things went blooey

[@theoutlaw4202]

I've had a similar (20 gallon) aluminum fuel cell in my car for 20 years...mounted to the tabs. No issues. However instead of left/right crossbars, mine is mounted to fore/aft crossbars. Holding the weight of the fuel, and supporting the cell floor.

[@afeefGTR]

finallyyyy the back rail is fixed. that thing sticking under the body been bugging me for a long time 😂

[@klinkster]

Mount the tank using rubber bushings or eventually the weight of the fuel sloshing about inside will rip the tabs from the tank and then you’ll have a nice little fire fueled by gasoline lol

[@tylerallison8438]

Mount the battery on the right side. You need things on the right to offset the drivers weight on the left.

[@ieuanalder2789]

Keep up the hard work! Love the videos !

[@raymondvanwyk8615]

i think its a bad idea to mount a bracket from the impact bar to the fuel cell, it can puncture/tear the fuel cell in a accident

[@themochaone]

I had the same thought. Better to secure the fuel cell to the front to rear frame rails and avoid the "impact bar" as a mounting point. also a notched or sectioned square tube under the rear of the fuel cell will allow for this. BTW, I cant resist saying the welding in the floor is early Haggard Garage and even present day or whenever it died.

[@Craig_Bolin]

I think everyone had that exact thought.

[@justinhowell8484]

Would also suggest adding a some rubber in between the tank and any other metal.

[@m4d_mark_xtr3me79]

Mount it to the opposite side that the engine is offset by and then you can put the battery in ;) Should make a fibreglass trunk bed and floor pan to save weight (and rust)

[@thelonemoomin]

Could you not put under straps front to back to support the tank underneath. It needs more support than just those 4 tabs. All they are designed for is to stop the tank sliding around a solid boot floor. The back could do with a bit more weight in it anyhow to balance against the engine.

[@aldanovaico181]

Those fuel cells crack easy. More support under all the way across with rubber buffer..u won’t regret it

[@alexthedon]

Remember we were watching the rx7 build and you told us about a new mystery car. It's been a long road and very interesting

[@PreeyenMistry]

Will you be doing an engine shave / clean the wires up? Looking forward to seeing the finished car and enjoying the build!

[@C4CH3S]

Hear me out Chris: don't leave a hole in the floor, you will get a parachute effect that will fuck your mpg up and make you slower! Please try and make a flat floor like a modern car!

[@dgdynasty2149]

One of KZbin's best

[@caseykoomen6222]

Awesome video! Cant wait for the next!

[@scottshipley]

Why not use box section or angle running front to back under both sides of the tank where the tabs are and weld to the box section you've added at the front and the tube at the back. You're already welding those "brackets" to the tube so why not extend all the way along to the front tabs so the tank is fully supported

[@garycooney3113]

Mount the battery on the right side. Help offset the driver weight a little bit.

[@marc9283]

Hey Chris, are you going to weld in more bars that connect both main rails? the rear subframe is not meant to act like such a bar if you understand what i mean. Easiest would be to replace that straight bar that holds up the fuel tank with a thicker bar.

[@jasonn4397]

Great episode, to an incredible build. Keep kicking ass bud!

[@Nebbia_affaraccimiei]

6:05 Chelsea Calling!! xD

[@ardentminds8977]

hell yeah, a good start to my week vacation!

[@coows]

Good luck on the 240z!

[@FullgasNoTraction]

Favourite part of the build - removing those pesky rear beams lol Seriously great build though

[@doeieeh]

Awesome content, following this one from the beginning, respect for ur work! 👍💪

[@aldanovaico181]

The welded seams will get hairline cracks ....aluminum fuel cells are pretty delicate .

[@Rtiffany0466]

Hey Chris. I know you are busy but it would be cool to get a list of songs you use or a playlist or something. I dig the tunes. And the content I guess... ;)

[@zerotohero7449]

mount the battery on the right to balance out the drivers weight on the left.

[@IG8282-q9h]

Watching this entire series and I am playing a drinking game to see is I can guess who the sponsor of each video is. I have not taken a shot yet. Might need to find a new drinking game.

[@nathanielfigueroa5785]

Meisterschaft GTC Exhaust with Section 1+2 when you get to that point Chris.

[@05jgardner]

Please isolate the tank a bit with rubber pads/feet. It will help prevent the steel rubbing through the Ali tabs and tank.

[@MattMuffins]

**Clicks on video instantly** Look forward to these everyday!

[@wrcgt4]

It's likely been suggested but maybe look at how drift cars do rear bash bars to box in that boot space . Haviig that one bar is gunna be trouble if you are involved in a rear ender

[@mileshighclub9857]

That little tank for a v10 ? Lmao

[@richardfuller3566]

All I have to do to follow this build is scroll through the thumbnails on your page lol.

[@01AceAlpha]

I keep waiting for Charles Bronson to show up..... then I realize this is an entirely different kind of Deathwish.... Would make a cool licence plate!

[@Gemidrift]

Doing a lower mounted tank like a drop tank would have been sick as you won’t have ground clearance issues due to the bags also allowing a different mounting process

[@danspanne]

The battery is on the right side to compensate the weight of the driver :)

[@Simpyspec]

I aspire to be like you one day, what a dream.

[@adamlanejr6336]

You deserve more followers ❤

[@Laz_Arus]

What is the nett capacity of that fuel tank? It looks rather large I would have thought for the purpose intended. I mean, I couldn't envision wanting to cruise for a lengthy day trip somewhere eating up the kilometres (miles), as the comfort factor looks to be heading to the 'bone jarring' end of the scale.

[@DustinMoffitt]

Can you not fit a standard fuel tank any more? That way it is hidden in the frame and keeps the inside of the cabin more clean.

[@brianferreira4554]

Awesome video, keep up the good work !!!

[@themochaone]

Second that!

[@davidbeer]

May want to design some give into the rear tank bracing in case of rear impact??? Not sure though??

[@fmmrz5]

You should just use a tube to mount the back of the fuel cell. Just put a u bend in it to accommodate the dip. And are you not going to add fender support on the back bash bar

[@umarrrrrrr]

Didn't you sort of create a Ford pinto?

[@KDad514]

If you kill someone in a fiery wreck, their family's lawyers are going to have a field day with you based on that fuel tank mount design. On the upside, you'd be a legend with the NHTSA investigators. They will be telling stories about your car for years.

[@PetermusPrime]

Remember that from an engineering point of view, triangles are the strongest shape to use.

[@chriscybulski3579]

Looking at those tires this thing will be doing burnouts for days

[@renyn21]

Shouldn't the underside of the trunk frame rails be detachable where you cut them? Weld plates and bolt them together? If the car gets hit it would be less hassle rebuilding that bit instead of being tied to the frame.

[@ShadySportsNetwork]

You may have mentioned it in a previous episode but where did you find those prebuilt gussets