Moving Rocks with a John Deere 4044M!

[@davidmays2161]

Just remember, a bad day on the tractor is better than a good day at the office 😂

[@WoodwardAcres]

Couldn’t agree more thanks for watching

[@BernieSalter]

You can learn to back drag with front bucket and it will be way faster spreading gravel, dirt or sand. My back blades stay in the shed unless cutting earth. Also forks can scoop up fence post removed and move faster than son moving by hand in that video. I Enjoy your videos and family helping.

[@5075E]

Move the hook. You don't have to bolt the hook in. You can use hitch pins that can be removed instantaneously with no tools and moved to a different location. If there's a little slop in the hook it doesn't matter. One of THE tractor mods you can make especially with the imatch is a hydraulic top link. Even given the same pin to hook spacing between implements, the angle will be different. The hydraulic top link can be operated from the seat and you can match the angle of the dangle perfectly in seconds. It also will allow you to compensate for different angles of the same implement dropped on uneven ground or at different angle say between a concrete pad and on the grass. Wouldn't be without it, plus bigger implements are extremely heavy and hard to adjust manually with the turnbuckle type. Also, and maybe most importantly is you can make adjustments to your implement while you're working it to get the right cutting angles and depths. It's a must for box blades and land planes.

[@WoodwardAcres]

thanks for the feedback. hope you have a great weekend

[@matthone5346]

Why wouldn't you just adjust the top bolt location of the box blade?

[@WoodwardAcres]

My goal is I would prefer all my attachments can be used with the same configuration

[@matthone5346]

@@WoodwardAcres I can understand not wanting to change anything on the imatch so it continues to work with your other implements… but moving the top bolt on the box blade itself would have allowed you to use the box blade with the current imatch setup.

[@WoodwardAcres]

@@matthone5346 I agree and will look into that. It’s funny when things go wrong and the camera is on the brain don’t work the same as if it’s “just you”.

[@matthone5346]

@@WoodwardAcres I can’t tell you how many times I’ve gotten frustrated with something not working right and a buddy who just shows up points out something that i totally missed. Sometimes it just takes that fresh set of eyes.

[@markveldhuizen]

Just moving the top hook on your iMatch to the correct position for the implements would have been the correct thing to do and much easier than all the messing around you did with the box blade and rear blade. Not judging you because I've already learned all these lessons the hard way with my 3038e. I'm just a little ahead of you on making mistakes is all!

[@WoodwardAcres]

I would prefer to have everything setup where I don’t have to change a bunch each time I use a single implement. At least that’s the dream

[@bradbruggeman6745]

​@@WoodwardAcres "Ken's Bolt On Hooks" has quick release pins for the Imatch hitch top hook that would make that change quick and painless.

[@WoodwardAcres]

@@bradbruggeman6745 thanks I will check it out.

[@markveldhuizen]

@@bradbruggeman6745 that's what I use too

[@codyclark9484]

With absolute certainty this will be my life when I close on this 27 acres I’m about to buy..hilarious!

[@Killingwiseman]

John Deere tech here. I know exactly what your problem is. The dealership has your rototiller hookup for your arms on upside down. Flip those around and your imatch top hook back down and you won’t have to adjust anything from implement to implement

[@WoodwardAcres]

I will check that out!!!! Thank you for the comment

[@swashington942]

Get you a real box blade . Anything less than 6' is pointless

[@bradbruggeman6745]

I agree. The 4 series needs a minimum of a 6 footer.

[@WoodwardAcres]

you guys forget i already owned a 4 ft when i had a 2 series so just trying to not spend the cash right now. @@bradbruggeman6745