MPPT Charge Controllers Explained

[@maxvideodrome4215]

I appreciate the brief and effective overview. Thank you.

[@LDSreliance]

You are welcome. Thanks for watching!

[@LaserJet58]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. this video was very useful for me

[@LDSreliance]

You are welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@cameraman1234567890]

Great explanation, Im building my own MPPT Controller right now, am going to have it hooked up to my 60 watt solar panel to charge a jackery explorer 240 faster than without one.

[@julesfalcone]

I wish I found this video 3 hours ago. Now I get the difference.

[@southernohiosolarhomestead8477]

i really learn alot from your videos keep them coming

[@LDSreliance]

I will do my best. Thanks for the support!

[@G029er]

The only update to this very helpful video is that there are now (6 years later) very good MPPT controllers in the $100 range. Even a few under $100.

[@LDSreliance]

Yes, there are hundreds on the market now and the prices have come down. I'd still be quite leery of anything promising MPPT technology for less than $100, though. Especially Chinese brands. There have been numerous units caught saying they are MPPT but actually using PWM. Also, the sampling rate matters. I have seen some units only track the power point every 60 seconds. That isn't fast enough to get the benefit of the efficiency. It needs to track once every 1-5 seconds, IMO.

[@patomansvibration6521]

A very good explanation on mppt charge controller and pwm, i really learnt from your explanation. big tomb and subscribed bro

[@LDSreliance]

Thanks, brother! I appreciate the feedback and the sub.

[@TheEtbetween]

Thanks for easy explanation

[@LDSreliance]

You are welcome. Thanks for watching!

[@joeshmoe781]

If you have full sun you may not need an MPPT controller. In all cases an MPPT controller will work better than a PWM. But, when you have full sun all day and all panels are in the same condition one just does not gain much over a PWM. The extra cost does not justify the expenditure. An MPPT controller really comes into it's own is when the sun is constantly changing and the clouds play a big part in that. But also each panel should have it's own controller. With full sun and all the panels in the same condition one can use a string inverter and a PWM controller. The cost difference is quite significant. I'd pay a hundred dollars for a Genasun controller before I paid for anything, But hey, sometimes ten bucks will give you the same results. It all depends on weather and shading conditions.

[@LDSreliance]

Yes, there are some scenarios where an MPPT controller will not benefit much, especially cost wise. I will explore those in a future video. Probably soon.

[@markspc1]

LDSreliance you are a hack and a menace to DIY electronic controllers.

[@gussi123]

markspc1 Sheesh..

[@johnaweiss]

2:07 Connect my MPPT between the grid and my battery? So, that has nothing to do with the solar panels, correct?

[@49ABEE]

Great explanation on these controllers yes i fell victim for buy cheap MPPT and was really you cannot get a good one unless you pay over $100 US Thank you

[@LDSreliance]

You are welcome. Thanks for the comment! I am sorry that you wasted your money but we've all done it from time to time.

[@alsnyder7017]

I have a 90V battery pack. I also have two identical sets of solar panels. Can two 48V MPPT Controllers be connected in SERIES to charge my battery pack?

[@LDSreliance]

I am pretty sure that would not work. The controllers have to monitor the voltage of the battery that they are charging and they would see that the battery is much higher than the upper limit of their specs.

[@syedmohamedanas8526]

Thank you for the information

[@LDSreliance]

My pleasure!

[@digicabtech]

1) If my solar panel 250w each connected in series at 136 volts. Is it ok to use am MPPT charger controller specified as 24 volts input? 2) If panels of 136 volts can be used with MPPT charger controller at 24 volts. Then Why there are MPPT charger controller at 24/36/48/60 volts use for? Can you give some typical example please?

[@DuncanCunningham]

So, I have two CS6-335 panels and 6x 12v batteries I'd like to charge up for some off grid learning. Which mppt cc would you think I should look at? Or a good place or website to start with.. I'm so new to this.

[@LDSreliance]

In my humble opinion, I like the Midnite Solar Classic 150 and the Morningstar TS-MPPT-60. The Midnite has a big following and has been an industry standard for many years. The Morningstar is newer and faster but maybe not as popular yet. You can't go wrong with either one. They will both be very efficient and are supported by great companies. amzn.to/2r8LubM amzn.to/2r8xaQB

[@fratermus5502]

The Morningstar Tristar MPPT has been around since at least 2009. Morningstar, Xantrex, Outback and the like are *industry* standards. The Classic is a very good controller but *businesses* don't buy things that look like old timey radios.

[@manuvincent9793]

How does mppt match the load connected to solar panel internal resistance

[@boondockunlocked2995]

Dont no if your still active on here but what i would like to no is...if i pick out a 40amp mppt where is it calculating that max 40amps at is it on the solar input side? Or is it the max conversion it can do to the 12volt battery output?....hope i explain my question ok....

[@LDSreliance]

Both. It can handle a maximum of 40A on the solar input side at a certain voltage (most MPPT controllers can handle either 12V or 24V so check the specifications as the amp rating may be different). It can also provide 40A of output through the load terminals.

[@fratermus5502]

The "MPPT" controller you show at the end isn't MPPT; it's a fraud, as YT teardowns will prove. Having said that, there *are* completely configurable and dependable MPPT in the $100 range. The Tracer A series is a good example. Current prices as of this writing are $52 shipped for 10A, $75 shipped for 20A, $85 for 30A. The 40A breaks the $100 line at $125.

[@LDSreliance]

It was for illustration purposes. I use images that are approved for re-use so sometimes that limits my options a lot. I am not sold on any Chinese mppt controllers. I am not saying they are all junk and I am sure some of them are great. But I don't trust any of them at this point due to the many ripoffs and frauds.

[@spockmcoyissmart961]

What is a practical 'load' on the MPPT charger load terminals? I'm guessing you don't want to hook up your inverter here, but should hook up the inverter to your battery bank. Is the 'load' terminals of a MPPT charger alway 'on'?

[@LDSreliance]

The load terminals will have the "low voltage disconnect" feature and then will automatically reconnect when the voltage gets back up to nearly full. So it is great to use for lighting, pond pumps, or other 12V loads that don't use a lot of amps and don't need an inverter.

[@spockmcoyissmart961]

thanks. Then I could hook a relay onto this to control an inverter hooked to the batteries if I understand this correctly, to prevent the inverter from draining the batteries below a safe level.

[@LDSreliance]

Yes. They actually make "low voltage disconnect" devices that are pretty cheap that will do that for you. Just set the voltage you want it to cut off and re-connect.

[@PIAMUSA]

Oh man, I need one for my panels.

[@LDSreliance]

I think we probably all do. Thanks for watching!

[@firemarshal17]

Will a charge controller also shut off power and prevent your batteries from draining below 50%?

[@jayw900]

Seems your question was ignored and i'm a bit late to the party, but yes, they will. However, to do so the load needs to be connected to the controller and not directly to the battery. Some controllers will allow the voltage disconnect to be adjusted as well.

[@amodanand3176]

Hi i want to buy solar controller from loom solar in India, not sure which one to buy?

[@LDSreliance]

I am not familiar with them.

[@russellk.bonney8534]

Nobody seems to get it. The 18v of a typical 12v panel gets pulled down to the battery voltage by the PWM (basically power averaging) and the *MPPT both. To get the most out of an MPPT (or any benefit at all) you need to go at least double the voltage for the panels. If your MPPT can handle higher voltage, then go to that. An MPPT utilizes the typical 18v in PWM mode. It's unlikely with an 18v panel but if extra voltage exists (like with a 36v house panel being ideal) the MPPT controller has an inverter section inbuilt (transformer and all) which converts the extra voltage into current which also goes into your battery. So in a 12v battery system, instead of say 6 Amps with a PWM on the same 36v panel you might see 10 Amps typical with an MPPT. (real world figures) So if you only have 18v panels then stick with the PWM, it's cheaper. To get the best use out of an MPPT controller the system needs to be designed using 36v or even 72V inputs (within specs). *Technically the MPPT tracks and keeps to the voltage of a panel that provides the maximum power output at any given time. That's called tracking and to be precise, Maximum Power Point Tracking or MPPT. Panels in series need to be the same.

[@shuttereff3ct593]

wiring inverter to charge controller load ? what are the pros and cons ?

[@LDSreliance]

I shot a video on that a while back: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oWnEh6GIpdSFgsU Let me know if you have more questions.

[@md.mostafakhan4529]

Am I right to say that MPPT is just a buck/boost converter?

[@cameraman1234567890]

It is exactly that, But also Has a current Boost Converter

[@simonpepper9721]

Cheers.

[@LDSreliance]

Cheers!

[@IJoeAceJRI]

Alright I got some things to get 1.) A 12V deep cycle battery or a 12V lithium battery (or environmentally friendly battery) 2.) A much better charge controller (mine is 100 watts it came with the harbor freight kit) 3.) A much better inverter that can handle higher loads 4.) Much more efficient panels. Perhaps I may make my own panels with mono solar cells? Or I may just buy a mono panel for below $1 per watt. If you want to know how big my 45 watt panels are already, the height is 1 inch, the length is 36.5 inches and the width is 37.5 inches. These panels are made out of amorphous crystal, never heard of it. And it is much heavier than a 100-watt panel. I think that's it. Questions: 1.) Why can't you just have 1 battery that powers your house? Why do you need to have multiple batteries in series? And why do you need to wire them in parallel also? 2.) Are there any 12V deep cycle batteries for dirt cheap that you know of? Or perhaps a battery for solar applications? Can I have the link? 3.) Remember when you told me that you would need a special type of glass for the frame of the panel? why can't you or I just use any glass or any frame? 4.) For a 12V deep cycle battery, how much can you charge a battery (max voltage) and how much can you discharge it (minimum voltage)?

[@LDSreliance]

Sounds like a good shopping list. Those harbor freight kits are good to learn on but not great for doing anything longer term. 1) You could have 1 battery that powers your house if it was big enough and had enough capacity for your needs. But unless you go with super expensive telco and utility batteries that cost thousands of dollars each you really can't find much on the market that is affordable and has more than about 300Ah in a single battery. You do not have to wire them in series and parallel. But when you use a golf cart battery (6V usually) you need to wire them in series in pairs to get up to 12V where your inverter can make use of that power. Then you can wire those pairs in parallel to add additional capacity. Did you watch my series vs parallel battery video? kzbin.info/www/bejne/aqrbg2B_r5eLmsU 2) The cheapest, best deep cycle batteries I know of are GC2 golf cart batteries. You can get them at Costco and Sam's Club for $90 each or so. So for under $200 you can wire them together and have a 12V battery with about 225Ah or so of capacity. www.samsclub.com/sams/duracell-golf-car-battery-group-size-gc2/prod3590228.ip?searchTerm=gc2 3) I answered that question in your comment. Did you see it? It needs to be low iron, high transmissivity glass that lets as much UV radiation through as possible. Normal window glass filters out all UVB and UVC light and some UVA. It will limit the power your solar panel can produce. 4) Depends on the battery chemistry and the manufacturer specs. Usually the charging voltage is 14.6-14.7V but it might be able to tolerate a little higher or lower. 50% discharged on a flooded lead acid battery is 12.2V. 25% is 12.0V. So if you go much below 12.2V you will shorten the life of the battery.

[@IJoeAceJRI]

1.) Oh ok 2.) Iv seen 12V batteries for much cheaper. 3.) I didnt see it. But thank you. 4.) Thats for deep cycle batteries? I get that out of a car starter battery

[@LDSreliance]

2) Yes car batteries are much cheaper than deep cycle. You get what you pay for. 4) You get what out of a car starter battery?

[@IJoeAceJRI]

2.) I meant iv seen deep cycle batteries for much cheaper. Like that link you sent me. 4.) I have noticed with car starter batteries, they can't go above 15V or below 12V. It sounded like that the deep cycle specs you gave me are just like my junk car starter battery. Also, I thought deep cycle batteries were meant to take all that abuse, discharging, and recharging over and over again.

[@jfbeam]

Quick answer: in series to increase voltage, in parallel to increase current. (note: a 6v or 12v battery is a series of 2v batteries.) As LDS said, warehouse clubs are the best bet for new golf cart / marine batteries, but if you have a golf cart shop nearby, you might be able to haggle for some used batteries -- it's cheaper than shipping to a recycler. (they tend to have 75-80% life left in them.) As for charging, "consult manufacturer specs"; that's the only way to know for sure what a specific battery needs. (which means never buy a store brand battery as there's usually no telling who made it. The Werker line at batteries plus, for example.) For reference: checkforbees.com/pics/BTI-Raleigh-Switch/Raleigh0030.jpg That's a telco battery. Each one is 2V, with enough power to literally vaporize a wrench.

[@davidsoler6258]

very well explained for people who have no idea on the subject. Tx for sharing (I have subscribed)

[@LDSreliance]

You are welcome! Thanks for the sub and the kind words.

[@davidjones1393]

THKS

[@LDSreliance]

You are welcome. Thanks for always watching my videos!

[@GatorLife57]

Thumbs up. ENJOY... THE SIMPLE LIFE

[@LDSreliance]

Thanks!

[@luongmaihunggia]

0:07 AC stand for "alternating current" so by saying "AC current", you're basically saying "alternating current current".

[@WallaceLivingFree]

Precice info thanks

[@markspc1]

LDSreliance setting a price for any electronic device is a fullish advise. Cell phones as an example may cost $700 today but two years later you can get them for $100. This is always the trend with electronics; a MPPT controller can sell for $1,000 until that technology becomes common practice then you can have it for $10.00 Please don't be a hack for MPPT manufactures !!!

[@LDSreliance]

Cell phones drop in price because a new model comes out and the old one is obsolete. They no longer make the old model. Their life cycle is about 1 year from launch to planned obsolescence. You can continue to use the phone for longer than 1 year but the manufacturer does not make them and sell new ones any more. That is not the case with MPPT controllers. They are very low volume production, unlike a cell phone, so recouping your R&D takes longer. They also do not release a completely new version every 6 months. Some companies, like Midnite with their classic series, continues to make the same model for decades. The only thing working to drive the cost of MPPT controllers down right now is the increase in popularity of solar so the companies can sell more units. Cheap Chinese knockoffs that have not put in the same R&D are not a good investment and cannot be compared to legit European and US makes.

[@fratermus5502]

Bullcrap. By definition a knockoff doesn't have to do R&D because someone else has already done it.

[@yassinerah2415]

so what's the best brands with a good price you recommend???

[@LDSreliance]

How many knockoffs do you know of that are as good as the original?

[@LDSreliance]

Some of the best brands are Outback, Midnite, Morningstar, Xantrex, Schneider Electric, Magnum, and Blue Sky. There are lots of others, though.

[@borisj4054]

Too simple. Still do not know how they regulate.

[@akshaybitle96k68]

👍

[@LDSreliance]

Thanks for watching!

[@glorvalmacglorvas171]

Yesss I am early :D

[@LDSreliance]

Winner!

[@nopparuj]

Hello

[@LDSreliance]

Hi

[@donaldbadeaux5455]

mppt controllers cost much more than PWM controllers...The extra cost makes PWM controllers a better choice for smaller systems

[@LDSreliance]

Correct. Those prices are coming down but you are still better off to just buy an extra panel to get the same extra watts you would generate going MPPT as opposed to PWM (below about 600 Watts or so total system size).

[@fratermus5502]

Maybe. I have both and use them for different things. MPPT will deliver more current than PWM when the battery is deeply discharged, can handle greater loads for the same amount of sunlight, have better yields when panel area is restricted, better yields in the cold, better yields in marginal insolation conditions and maybe in partial shade, can often tolerate overpaneling, can use higher voltage panels which tend to be cheaper by the wat, and can be used as a component in a DIY smart converter. Yes, MPPT is relatively $$$. If one doesn't need the benefits it would be money wasted.

[@LDSreliance]

Yes they are great! I always recommend someone use them for any system over about 500-600W. Below that it is more cost effective just to add another panel to get a bigger bump in production. But in all other situations MPPT is better.